While the splashiest Rolex-related headline of the day is the announcement of a new 41mm Submariner, that's not the only new watch we're getting from the Crown on this warm summer evening. It's not even the only new 41mm watch, as it turns out. The Oyster Perpetual, which is the entry point into Rolex's collection, is now available in a 41mm case size, replacing the 39mm, and joining the 36mm, 34mm, 31mm, and 26mm options. The 39mm wasn't added all that long ago (in 2015) and became something of a cult watch in its relatively short lifespan.
There are two variations of the OP 41 at launch, both in stainless steel: One has a "bright black" sunray dial with white-gold hour markers and hands, while the other has a silver sunray finish dial with yellow-gold hour markers and hands. The latter is a totally new dial configuration for Rolex, and it looks quite handsome from the stock images provided to the press. It will be really interesting to see in person how the gold and silver play off one another. Both come in the same steel case on the same steel Oyster bracelet, and both are powered by the new Caliber 3230, which is the same souped-up movement in the new Submariner. It has the Chronergy escapement and a longer power reserve, making these watches even better daily drivers.
Initial Thoughts
While it makes a ton of sense that Rolex would add a 41mm option to the OP lineup, it is definitely a surprise to see it replacing the 39mm version. Maybe it was only popular in watch nerd circles (sorry, Gary Shteyngart), but 39mm is such a sweet-spot size, and I saw tons of those watches out in the wild. (Check out my thoughts from a while back for more on that.) Paired with the upsizing of the Submariner, it definitely looks like Rolex's customers are leaning toward larger watches, and they're taking notice.
As far as the two models presented here go, I think both executions look lovely. The 41mm version of the Oyster case has long lines, and those polished sides really accentuate the lithe proportions. The lighter dial definitely gets a bit of extra punch from those yellow-gold markers, and the black dial looks pretty similar to what you could find on the OP 39 and OP 36 models. I'll be curious to see both up close and see if Rolex has changed the finish on the black at all to give the watch a new look. Overall, if you're looking for a watch with sport watch proportions but more of an all-situation look, the OP 41 could be just the ticket.
Diameter: 41mm Case Material: Oystersteel Dial Color: Silver sunray or black sunray Indexes: White or yellow gold batons Lume: Yes, on hands and hour markers Water Resistance: 100 meters (330 feet) Strap/Bracelet: Oyster bracelet in Oystersteel
As you'd expect, we're getting a new version of the Submariner Date to accompany the new 41mm no-date Submariner. However, while the no-date Sub is only available in Oystersteel with a black dial and black bezel, the 41mm Submariner Date comes in seven configurations, two of which are new versions of modern cult classics. Here's a quick run-down of the entire collection: There are two references in Oystersteel with black dials, one with a black bezel and one with a green bezel; there are two two-tone references in Oystersteel and yellow gold, one with a blue dial and bezel and one with a black dial and bezel; there are two references in yellow gold, one with a black dial and bezel and one with a blue dial and bezel; and, finally, there is a white-gold reference with a black dial and blue bezel. In all cases, the bezels are Cerachrome, with the markings in either PVD gold or platinum.
For all seven references of the Submariner Date, you get the new 41mm case with slimmer lugs and a slightly wider bracelet (which Rolex says is for comfort and stability on the wrist). You also get the caliber 3235, which has a longer 70-hour power reserve and a proprietary Chronergy escapement, making it a serious improvement over the previous caliber. If this movement sounds familiar, it's because it's the same movement used in the date-equipped Sea-Dweller ref. 126600.
The new 41mm Submariner Date completely replaces the previous generation of Submariner Date models, and they should be available at authorized dealers on Wednesday. Prices range from $9,150 for the black-on-black model in Oystersteel to $39,650 for the white-gold model with the blue bezel.
Initial Thoughts
Honestly, if you want a cool Submariner, now you're truly spoiled for choice. In particular, I always liked the idea of a blue-bezeled Sub, but found the blue dial to be a bit much. (It also shouts, "Look at me, I'm wearing a white-gold Submariner" in a way that I think this new, more subtle version doesn't.) Despite the weight that comes with the watch, that would be my choice of the bunch. That said, the Kermit is likely to be the enthusiast hit of the collection, but I'll wait and see what everyone says down in the comments before I draw a hard line there. (Please, let us know which one you're most excited to check out in the metal.)
I do think it's very interesting that the new Submariner collection is rather lopsided toward the Submariner Date models. There is only the all-black version available without the date, while the other eight models all come with that extra little bit of complication. It's been that way for some time, but it underscores the fact that the no-date Sub is very much a purist's watch, something of an homage to the early days of the Submariner and its no-nonsense tool-watch heritage. The Submariner Date is the more practical, desk-diving option, and the precious metal Submariners have always had a date window and a Cyclops. It looks like while some things have changed with the Submariner, other things have stayed the same.
Diameter: 41mm Case Material: Oystersteel, Oystersteel and yellow gold, yellow gold, white gold Dial Color: Black lacquer, blue sunray Indexes: Luminous circles, rectangles, and triangles Lume: Yes, on hour markers, hands, and bezel pearl Water Resistance: 300 meters (1,000 feet) Strap/Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock folding clasp and Glidelock extension system
Price: $9,150 (steel with black bezel), $9,550 (steel with green bezel), $14,300 (steel and yellow gold), $36,950 (yellow gold), $39,650 (white gold) Availability: From Wednesday, September 2, 2020 Limited Edition: No, main production.
Yes, today saw the introduction of the Submariner in a brand new 41mm sizing, but did you think that was the only trick "the Crown" had up its sleeve? Adding to the excitement, Rolex is also announcing a collection of new Sky-Dwellers in both 18k yellow gold and Everose gold on the Oysteflex bracelet. To put it simply, this is the same Sky-Dweller that we all know, just with a new bracelet. Now, while a "strap change" might not seem like the most thrilling thing in the world, these new watches look very cool.
Initial Thoughts
This is not the first time we have seen the brand iterate on an existing model in this way. The Rolex Daytona was released on the Oysterflex back in 2017, and just like this new Sky-Dweller, only in precious metals. The Sky-Dweller, the brand's most complicated timepiece, was previously available on both a leather strap and Oyster bracelet, and it is now part of the Oysterflex fold. One of the added benefits of the Oysterflex is the much-loved glide-lock adjustment system allowing easy re-sizing of the bracelet on the fly.
Inside the watch is the same Rolex in-house caliber 9001 movement which debuted with the Sky-Dweller at Baselworld 2012. The caliber 9001 features a blue Parachrom hairspring as well as 72 hours of power reserve, and powers the dual time and annual calendar functions of the watch.
Note that this is called the Oysterflex bracelet and not a rubber strap. This is because, unlike a rubber strap, the Oysterflex is far more bracelet-like. It is made up of – as the name suggests – flexible metal blades manufactured from a titanium and nickel alloy. The blades are over-molded with high-performance black elastomer, which is extremely durable. The underside of the bracelet features longitudinal cushions which aid in both comfort and wearability.
Given that this is an iteration of an existing model – a refresh, if you will – the watch maintains the same 42mm sizing. Moreover, it continues to boast the fluted, rotatable bezel which is used to set the watch in tandem with the Ring Command system. As mentioned, there are a variety of Sky-Dweller variants receiving this new update: three dials colors in yellow gold and three dial colors in Everose gold. These new watches, as well as the entire stable of new Rolex releases, will arrive at authorized dealers on Wednesday, September 2.
The biggest news this year from Rolex came in the Submariner family, with a new size and a long-awaited update to a new automatic movement with Chronergy escapement and 70-hour power reserve, but there were quite a few updates to the Oyster Perpetual as well. There's a new 41mm size. But that's not all. We've also got a refresh in the form of five new 36mm Oyster Perpetual models featuring colorful lacquer dials. And underneath that dial is the new in-house caliber 3230, the same movement that we saw earlier this evening in the new 41mm no-date Sub.
The five new colorful dials are candy pink, which you can see above, yellow, green, coral red, and turquoise. All five versions have Chromalight displays, which means that as bright as these colors are in the daytime – and some of them are really bright – their blue-glowing lume will make sure that they are plenty bright and legible at night, too. The Rolex website shows that all but the candy pink version are also being made in the 41mm version. All of them come on Oyster bracelets.
Initial Thoughts
The colors look great. They're bright and fun, and with their medium size, these new Oyster Perpetuals figure to be perfectly sized for those with smaller and medium-sized wrists. The 36mm Oyster Perpetual has always been my personal favorite from this line. And with the introduction of the 41mm version, which replaces the 39, the Oyster Perpetual 36 takes on a bigger role as the version for those who like their watches to be less than 40mm. It's a watch that can easily be worn by lots of folks, and it might just be the most discreet Rolex that one can own and wear. (Though, with these new dial colors, that may not exactly hold.) These bright colors also immediately call to mind Rolex's earlier Stella dials. More recently we'd seen brightly colored dials in this vein appearing on certain aftermarket watches.
It's tough to get a sense for exactly how the colors are going to look in the metal. It would be really interesting if the pink ends up having a salmon-like tinge, though this seems unlikely given the "candy" pink name. Likewise, the turquoise and coral red are interesting to me. I'd love to see these watches in person. The green dial variation feels a safe bet, and I could see it becoming a huge seller.
But I think the most important thing to note about the 36mm Oyster Perpetual is the new movement. Caliber 3230 is the same brand new automatic movement that was just seen in the 41mm variation of the OP as well as the new 41mm no-date Sub. This movement is a pretty massive upgrade over the previous-generation cal. 3130, which was introduced about 20 years ago. No shade on the 3130. It's a great caliber that has had a long run in a number of models, but having that Chronergy escapement with paramagnetic pallet fork and escape wheel makes a huge difference for the consumer. The long power reserve of 70 hours will make these new models a more convenient watch to own, and the fact that the movement is less affected by magnetic fields is important for most of us whose lives are virtually always surrounded by lots of electronics.
These five watches aren't it for the new Oyster Perpetual 36. There are three additional variations: a silver dial, a bright blue dial, and what Rolex calls a bright black dial.
The new 36mm version packs really incredible value at $5,600. It's a fully spec'd out modern Rolex that would make a really compelling argument for everyday wear.
Today is the first day of September which, in the Northern Hemisphere, means the final days of summer are here, and fall is quickly approaching. For all of us at the HODINKEE Shop, the end of summer and the arrival of autumn signify more than a simple change in weather – the new season also impacts how we interact with our watches and the other objects around us on a daily basis. Sleeves grow longer, steel bracelets give way to leather straps, and the excesses of the summer months disappear. All of a sudden, we know exactly what we need – and what we don't – to thrive on a daily basis.
While a watch might be an obvious everyday companion, there are other items out there that might make or break your daily routines this fall. For example, a new pen might be the unexpected acquisition that makes all the difference for you at work, whether that's in your home or at the office. What about some new reading material for those crisp, cool autumn nights? Or some wireless headphones to accompany you during your early morning jogs? In the spirit of the upcoming season, we decided today would be a good time to gather a few of our favorite watches, tools, and accessories in the HODINKEE Shop that we believe will help carry you through fall with ease.
A Pen For Every Occasion
The Embassy Pen in brass.
There is significant crossover between the pen collecting and watch enthusiast communities – which isn't much of a surprise when you think about it. Who wouldn't have guessed that the same people that appreciate watchmaking also enjoy the craftsmanship and design involved in creating high-quality pens? An important tactile appeal is found in both hobbies, as these are tools built with function in mind. You buy a pen to write with; you buy a watch to wear. Over the years, we've gradually expanded the amount of ballpoint and rollerball pens that are available in the HODINKEE Shop, and we think we now have a pen for every type of collector.
HODINKEE x Montblanc M Rollerball Pen With Leather Pouch
Did you know we teamed up with Marc Newson and Montblanc all the way back in 2016 to offer the Marc Newson-designed M Pen with an exclusive HODINKEE-branded, Montblanc-crafted leather pouch? It was one of our earliest collaborations, and it's remained a favorite among the HODINKEE Shop team for its fluid lines and sleek silhouette – all elements that are characteristic of Newson's design philosophy. One of our favorite features of the Montblanc M pen is the alignment of the clip with the "plateau" at the end of the barrel. No matter how you position the cap when closing the pen, a magnet pulls the clip to line up perfectly with the Montblanc logo at the base of the pen barrel. Priced exactly at $500, the HODINKEE x Montblanc M Rollerball Pen not only represents an entry-point into Marc Newson's catalog of designs, but it's also highly functional and comfortable to use – everything you might look for in an everyday office companion. See for yourself, right here.
Embassy Pen
The Embassy Pen in stainless steel.
Our famous Embassy Pens offer a robust and bold alternative to your typical ballpoint pen. Based on a pen design issued to U.S. government and military officials, the Embassy Pen is available in lightweight black aluminum (above), stainless steel, and brass. It's fitted with an easy-to-refill, pressurized Fisher Space Pen Cartridge, which was originally developed for use during manned spaceflight and is world-famous for its ability to write pretty much anywhere – seriously. As we like to say in the HODINKEE Shop: The Embassy Pen might not be the last pen you'll ever want, but it could easily be the last pen you'll ever need. Pricing for the Embassy Pen starts at $90.
Here's a tip: If you're a fan of the patina that develops on vintage watches, opt for the Embassy Pen in brass. It will gain a slight patina – and loads of character – over years of use.
Pendulum Pen
We like to consider the Pendulum Pen to be the Embassy Pen's smaller sibling. That means it's an extremely capable writing instrument that can handle whatever your daily lifestyle includes; it's also fitted with a Fisher Space Pen Cartridge. Built from grade-five titanium and milled completely in the United States, the Pendulum Pen features a loop at its top which makes it easy to attach to a lanyard or key ring. The lightweight and slim design make it an excellent choice for use on-the-go – you'll forget you have it on you, right up until you need it. It's priced at $90, and is available right here.
New Season, New Watch
Is it just us, or does the changing of the seasons make you want to switch up the watches in your daily rotation? Sometimes, you want a slim timepiece that will easily fit under any long sleeves. Sometimes, you want a bold and colorful watch that will catch your attention (and others'). And sometimes, you want a true multi-function quartz watch that can handle anything and everything. On that last note, we recently restocked nearly every G-SHOCK available in the HODINKEE Shop – click here to see what you've missed.
But if you're after something that leans more on the mechanical side of things this fall, we've also just restocked a number of watches that were previously unavailable for quite some time – and they just so happen to be a perfect fit for fall. Check each of them out below.
Breitling Top Time Limited Edition
Back in March, we announced the very-first Breitling in the HODINKEE Shop: the Top Time Limited Edition. This vintage-inspired chronograph brought back a few of the design elements that Top Time watches from the 1970s were known for, and paired them with 21st-century proportions to excellent effect. The combination of the decimal scale on the dial, the black-on-white "Zorro" design surrounding the sub-dials, and the bright red accents made this watch a sure-fire winner. After selling out of our initial allocation quickly after introducing it, Breitling recently shared a few additional watches from the Top Time's 2,000-piece run with us. You can grab one of these chronographs for $4,990, right here.
NORQAIN Independence 20 Limited Edition
It was only a few weeks ago that NORQAIN announced the Independence 20 Limited Edition, the first watch from the brand to be powered by the COSC-certified caliber NN20/1, a new movement that NORQAIN developed in partnership with Kenissi. Only 200 watches were made to commemorate the significance of this special release for the company, and they have now nearly sold out of the watch around the world. NORQAIN recently granted us access to a final batch of the Independence 20, which we're excited to offer to you today. Available on either a bracelet, for $2,990, or with a leather strap, for $2,840 – you can pick yours up right here, before they're gone for good.
Oris Aquis Date
The Oris Aquis Date is one of the most diverse and value-driven dive watches out there. It combines a modern aesthetic with all-around attributes to make it a compelling choice regardless of your typical dive-watch preferences. It all starts with 300 meters of water resistance, bolted-on crown guards, and a ceramic bezel insert, which then results in a huge variety of dial color options to choose from – we're talking everything from Mint Green to Ocean Blue – and three different case diameters (39.5mm, 41.5mm, and 43.5mm). There's even a GMT variant if you prefer a more complicated dive watch. You can explore our entire range of Aquis Date dive watches right here.
Here's another tip: If you want an Aquis that is more on the unique and limited side of things, we recommend checking out the recently announced Aquis Date Lake Baikal Limited Edition. However, if you're on the hunt for a modern dive watch that is a bit more affordable – but no less cool – check out the Aquis Date Relief.
Straps, Tools, And Accessories
Any watch collector worth their salt will tell you that there is far more to watch collecting than simply watches – you need plenty of straps, tools, and accessories to go along with them, of course. Whether you want to try out a new leather strap on a recently acquired watch, or you're ready to finally take the plunge on a high-end loupe, we've got you covered this fall in the HODINKEE Shop.
Silver Spring Bar Tool - Travel Size
One of the most in-demand products in the HODINKEE Shop is also one of the most unassuming. This pocket-sized spring bar tool is a perfect fit for nearly every occasion, from transporting it in your backpack or briefcase, to storing it in your desk at home. Its 60mm width contains both a forked and pointed tip, giving you more functionality-per-millimeter than pretty much any other watch tool out there. Unlike a regular strap changing tool with sharp, open tips, our miniature spring bar tool has two screwed end-caps that will protect anything the tool comes into contact with, while making sure neither tip dulls with time. Available right here for $45, this smaller, travel-ready Silver Spring Bar Tool comes with its own HODINKEE-branded leather carrying pouch.
Apple AirPods And AirPods Pro
AirPods obviously don't require much of an introduction, but it's worth mentioning that Apple's proprietary wireless headphones were designed with the everyday-carry lifestyle in mind. Whether you own an Apple Watch or not, AirPods are the perfect complement to any Apple device, including your iPhone and iPad, and will pair quickly and easily allowing you to enjoy all your favorite albums, podcasts, and audiobooks wherever you are. From listening to music on a run to taking advantage of AirPods Pro's renowned noise-canceling features, Apple AirPods are a hard-to-beat headphone for all-around use. The HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Retailer of Apple Watch and other Apple accessories, including the original AirPods and AirPods Pro. Discover them for yourself, right here.
Victorinox For HODINKEE Swiss Army Knives
Multi-purpose tools are an essential element to any everyday kit, which is why we partnered with Victorinox last year to develop two different versions of its iconic Swiss Army Knife. For $22, you can go for a HODINKEE-branded version of the original, seven-feature knife in black, which includes a stainless steel blade, a pair of scissors, a keyring, tweezers, a toothpick, and a flat-head screwdriver that also functions as a nail file. But for just a little more coin – $7 to be exact – you have the option of a Swiss Army Knife that was specifically designed for watchmakers. That's right, for only $29, the Victorinox for HODINKEE Watchmaker Swiss Army Knife combines the stability of a large three-inch red handle with a curved stainless steel blade that will open even the most stubborn snap-on casebacks.
Leather Watch Pouches
Our Leather Watch Pouches are a great way to protect and carry a single watch when it's not on your wrist. Whether that's at home in a drawer, or in your briefcase, a leather watch pouch will shield your watch from any accidental nicks or scratches. We currently have over 15 different leather pouch options available and in-stock, and they vary widely in everything from color to finish. For example, our Soft Leather Watch Pouches are crafted by hand for HODINKEE in the United States and are available in either hunter green, navy blue, or mustard yellow. On the other hand, our Smooth Leather Watch Pouches are handmade in Tuscany and are available in either orange, dark brown, light brown, dark grey, or black. And that's just the start – there's also English Suede Watch Pouches, Aged Leather Pouches, Distressed Leather Pouches, and one particularly popular colorway in camouflage. Our full-size Leather Watch Pouches start at $65, and you can pick a new favorite for yourself right here.
Loupe System For HODINKEE
Is there a more quintessential everyday-carry item for a watch lover than a good loupe? And they don't get much better than the Loupe System. If you're not familiar with Loupe System, here's a brief primer: This is the loupe used in the watch industry today. From Basel to Geneva, New York to Hong Kong, the Loupe System is one of the rare constants in the contemporary watch industry; it's even regarded as the "Official Loupe" of the jurors of the annual Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.
A side-by-side comparison of a standard loupe (left) and the Loupe System for HODINKEE (right).
Our collaboration with Loupe System utilizes a five-element lens system that is more comparable to a high-end camera than a standard loupe, which typically uses a single optical element for magnification. This framework remedies the optical distortions and chromatic aberrations commonly found on a run-of-the-mill loupe, providing a remarkable clarity that allows you to fully comprehend whatever object is placed underneath it. We first unveiled our collaboration with Loupe System a few years ago, and it has since sold out time-and-time again. We recently received a restock of our Loupe System in the 6x magnification, which means the time is now to pick up a new loupe – we promise you won't regret it. Click here to learn more
Watch Straps
The matte color options that populate our Sedona strap collection are perfect for fall.
The change from summer to fall also means it's time to gravitate toward the watches with leather straps in your collection, or to change out the bracelet on your watch for a leather strap. Leather straps just make sense in the fall and winter months, and luckily, in the HODINKEE Shop, you have plenty of options to choose from. We recently broke down all the HODINKEE Shop strap offerings in this Shop Spotlight, or you can go ahead and pick out a new leather strap for yourself from over 150 options, right here.
Fall Reading
While there's never not a good occasion to get some quality reading in, we might suggest fall is the best time of year for it. Why? Well, it's still warm enough to enjoy a book outside, while the temperature has dropped enough to where you can bring a cup of hot coffee or tea with you. These three book and magazine suggestions will make the perfect addition to your fall reading list.
HODINKEE Magazine
On the heels of the recent announcement that the HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 1, has been reprinted after being out of stock for nearly two years, we'd like to acknowledge that this is the first time – ever – that all six editions of the HODINKEE Magazine are available to purchase at once. Whether you missed out on a single issue or two at some point down the line, or you haven't yet picked up a copy, there's no time like the present to dig into our biannual premium print publication.
And don't forget – HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 7, will be released later this year, and a HODINKEE Magazine subscription will ensure that you're one of the first to receive a copy (and at a discounted price, too!). Learn more about the HODINKEE Magazine, here.
Time To Race
John Goldberger's latest book release places a spotlight on the world shared by watches and motorsport, by delving directly into the personal timepieces owned by over 90 different racing icons. Those names include everyone from Enzo Ferrari and Carroll Shelby, to Paul Newman and Steve McQueen. Alongside co-author and acclaimed Italian motorsport journalist Cesare Maria Mannucci, Goldberger spent years researching the world's most celebrated historical drivers, the circuits they raced on, the watches that accompanied them as tools on the track, and the brands that supplied them. It's all brought together in Time To Race, a book that spans nearly 500 pages and 1,500 images.
Watches: A Guide By HODINKEE
It's hard to believe it's been nearly a whole year since we published our very first book, Watches: A Guide By HODINKEE, in partnership with Assouline. Each chapter was written by a HODINKEE editor, so you can enjoy a fresh perspective on each topic, which range from dive watches, to travel-time watches, military watches, ladies' watches, dress watches, and chronographs. Priced at just $85, we think this is one of the best buys out there for a brand-new watch book, which makes it an excellent gift for the watch lover (even if that's yourself!) in your life.
Discover More Fall Favorites In The HODINKEE Shop
The start of a new season is refreshing for so many reasons, not the least of which is the prospect of new-watch launches to come. And you can trust us, a whole lot of exciting new products and watches are coming down the pipeline the rest of the year, but there's also plenty of time to discover more of what's out there right now. From watches – both vintage and contemporary – to tools, accessories, and straps, it's all here in the HODINKEE Shop.
Grand Seiko has just announced an additional model to their blue-themed 60th Anniversary Limited Edition collection. The original four watch collection was previewed in late January of this year and included a Hi-Beat model, a ladies automatic, and two quartz models – all as limited editions with blue dials (and most with red accents). The new SBGR321 makes that quartet more of a "Five Neat Guys" scenario and rounds out Grand Seiko's 60th Anniversary collection with an approachable 40mm automatic.
Initial Thoughts
Larger than the SBGR253 but smaller than the SBGR307, the SBGR321 is 13mm thick with a domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, 100m water resistance, and a display caseback showing a red and blue coloring for the rotor which, like the shimmering blue shade of the dial, is inspired by dawn over Japan's Mt. Iwate.
Like other SBGR models, the SBGR321 is powered by Grand Seiko's 9S65 automatic. Offering a 72-hour power reserve, a rate of 4 Hz, and a stated accuracy of +5/-3 seconds a day, the 9S65 is beautifully finished and offers time along with central seconds and a date function at three.
Limited to 2,500 pieces and hitting Grand Seiko retail for $5,200, I have to think this will be one of the most popular models in the lineup, as the SBGR321 offers a straightforward automatic movement and costs some $1,100 less than the (admittedly more limited) SBGH281 Hi-Beat 60th Anniversary model.
If you dug the original idea of a blue-dialed limited edition Grand Seiko but didn't want to shell out for the Hi-Beat, this might be the one for you.
As if out of thin air, Audemars Piguet dropped a new release on its website today. The Royal Oak is one of the most iconic watch designs of the last 40 some years, and the Royal Oak Chronograph has since carved out a special place of its own in horological lore. This new 18k white gold Royal Oak Chronograph is a limited edition, and it features a light-blue "Grande Tapisserie" dial.
Initial Thoughts
The light, almost powder shade of the blue dial plays nicely against the white gold case and integrated bracelet. There is a contrasting dark blue ring around the outer portion of the dial, as well as around the sub-dials, boosting the overall legibility of the watch. The "Grande Tapisserie" pattern is classic AP, and it continues to look great on this limited edition model. Both the hands and markers are filled with luminous material, and the dial features an anti-reflective coating.
This release is effectively an existing – and well-known – watch in the AP catalog, sporting a new dial variation, in a small limited run. That's it. But that simple fact notwithstanding, I happen to like the way this one looks and would love to see it in the metal. The color scheme of the watch – with the dual shades of blue – invokes a somewhat frosted aesthetic that fits in perfectly with the incoming cool fall and winter weather. I don't know if that was the intent behind the design, but let's go with it.
Inside this watch beats the AP selfwinding caliber 2385 featuring an 18k gold oscillating weight, and 40 hours of power reserve. This is an integrated, column-wheel, chronograph mechanism. The watch features the now-iconic integrated Royal Oak bracelet, also in white gold. You may remember, some years back, Ben Clymer's A Week on the Wrist with a solid gold AP Chronograph. In that video, Ben talked about the weight of the watch, in the sense that you can really feel the quality of the precious metal. I doubt this limited edition will be any different.
A watch like this could be gone just as quickly as it magically appeared. As mentioned at the top, it will be limited to 100 pieces and is available now.
The Basics
Brand: Audemars Piguet Model: Royal Oak Chronograph Reference Number: 26317BC.OO.1256BC.01
Diameter: 38mm Thickness: 11mm Case Material: 18k white gold Dial Color: Light blue Indexes: Applied markers Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 50m Strap/Bracelet: Integrated bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: 2385 Functions: Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, and date Diameter: 26.2mm Power Reserve: 40 hours Winding: Selfwinding Frequency: 3 Hz Jewels: 37 Chronometer Certified: No
Over the course of the last six months, our way of life has completely changed. COVID-19 has ground international travel to a halt, millions have lost their jobs, and we still face more uncertainty as there is no timeframe for when things will, if ever, "get back to normal." Despite all this, interest in watches has never been stronger – waiting lists at authorized dealers are longer than they have ever been, and interest in watch auctions has propelled prices further into the stratosphere. As we adjust to life in the "no contact" age, what stays the same and what changes? Is now the right time to buy, or the right time to sell? At the September 2020 meeting of the Horological Society of New York, Eric Ku will discuss how to navigate the waters of watch collecting in the time of COVID-19.
About Eric Ku
Eric Ku
Eric Ku is an internationally recognized expert in vintage and contemporary watches. In 2005, he launched the website 10 Past Ten, specializing in the sale of fine and rare vintage Rolex watches. His interest in the scholarship of vintage Rolex led him to acquire the Vintage Rolex Forum in 2013. Vintage Rolex Forum has been the epicenter of scholarly discussion about all topics relating to vintage Rolex since its inception in 1999. In 2016, he co-founded Los Angeles Watchworks, a business specializing in the service and restoration of vintage and modern timepieces. A member of the GPHG Academy, Ku has served on the jury twice, helping to recognize achievements and innovation in watchmaking.
HSNY lectures will be streamed live via Zoom for the foreseeable future, with no in-person gatherings. Webinar registration is required. All HSNY lectures are free and open to the public, and all are recorded. Recorded lectures are made available to HSNY members immediately, and the general public with a two-month delay.
It's Wednesday, which means a fresh batch of vintage watches has arrived in the HODINKEE Shop! As we highlighted in yesterday's Shop Spotlight, fall is right around the corner, and we're preparing the only way we know how – with a brand-new selection of vintage watches that are perfect for welcoming the seasonal shift. We specifically selected the leather straps on today's vintage watches with fall weather in mind. This week, we have an eclectic collection of seven watches with bold colors and compelling features that all come in a number of classic designs.
1970s Heuer Autavia GMT Ref. 1163 'Mark 3'
When the term "Pepsi" bezel is mentioned, usually one watch comes to mind for watch collectors. But today, we're featuring a different kind of Pepsi GMT with some serious style that will help it stand out in any watch collection. This is a 1970s Heuer Autavia GMT that matches its 24-hour, blue-and-red bezel with bold red accents on the sub-dials and hands. These details not only add an attractive pop of color, but they are also beneficial for improving legibility. Additionally, the three red stripes in the minute register allow you to break the subsidiary dial into five-minute segments, so you can quickly divide elapsed timing intervals when the chronograph is in use. Powered by the self-winding Heuer caliber 14 – a GMT-equipped evolution of the famous caliber 11 – this vintage chronograph GMT combines functionality and value in a handsome package.
1960s Zenith Chronograph Ref. A277
Zenith debuted the ref. A277 chronographs in the mid-1960s a few years before the famous El Primero automatic chronograph would make its debut, and the brand ended up producing two different variants in its total production run. This example has a 40mm diameter, which is a fairly standard size today but would have been considered large in the 1960s. Other design aspects, like the bezel with its mix of circular markers, numbers, and hash-marks, and the interesting ladder-style bracelet made by Gay Frères, were also uncommon at the time, which gives this Zenith chronograph a unique and interesting appearance that you won't find elsewhere. In fact, these specific ladder-style bracelets are quite collectible on their own. The watch we have here today is the second version of the ref. A277, which features an updated movement, a new logo on the crown, and gold-colored subsidiary seconds hands. The ref. A277 is a great chronograph that you won't come across too often; it mixes classic and funky styles in a highly wearable steel case.
1979 Tudor Prince Oysterdate Submariner Ref. 94110
Tudor introduced the Submariner dive watch at nearly the same time Rolex – its corporate sibling – did. Rolex released the inaugural Submariner in 1953, and Tudor released its first a year later, in 1954. Ever since, Rolex and Tudor have continued to evolve their dive-watch offerings in similar, and complementary, ways. Some of the biggest aesthetic differences you'll find between vintage Tudor and Rolex examples are the "Snowflake"-style hands and dials that the former used on its Submariners between 1969 and the mid-1980s. The large square lume plots on the dial and the blocky, angular hands are instantly recognizable as a Tudor trait. Today's Submariner example dates to the final years of Tudor using the Snowflake aesthetic on its dive watches, before it was revived in 2012 in the contemporary Black Bay series.
The Full Set
In addition to the three above highlights, we have a beautiful Universal Genève in pink gold from 1956, a classic 1968 Rolex Date with its original box and chronometer papers, a funky, yellow Jenny Caribbean 1000 from the early 1970s, and a 1959 stainless-steel Longines dress watch with great patina. Head over to the HODINKEE Shop to check out all the new watches!
Welcome to the nineteenth installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Faizan Rashid, Francois Michelon, Frank To, Justin Gallen, and Matthew Spreadbury.
Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story.
Faizan Rashid And His Omega Speedmaster
Faizan is originally from Pakistan and currently living in Dubai. In 2011, when he and his wife were expecting their first child, Faizan wanted a watch he could be proud to call a family heirloom years later. He'd always been fascinated by the Omega Speedmaster Pro and dedicated a lot of time to researching its history and heritage; he got his Speedmaster a couple months after the birth of his son. He considers himself a custodian of the watch that his son will own one day.
Francois Michelon And His Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic
A resident of Palm Beach, Florida, Francois had been on a long search to find his Panerai Luminor GMT. For him, it represented a tool watch that struck the right balance of style, utility, and legibility. While on a business trip to Italy, his dreams came true at a tiny jeweler in the town of Vicenza. He's proud to say the hunt paid off, and that the watch is now his everyday wear.
Frank To And His TAG Heuer Carrera WS2111
Frank is an artist and lecturer at the University of the Highlands and Islands in Scotland. His first mechanical watch – the TAG Heuer Carrera WS211 – was a gift from his mother on his 21st birthday. It was a constant presence on his wrist as an art student, and later for the big successes of his career. The watch was with him when he met Sir Patrick Stewart and when he demonstrated his artistic process for Prince Charles. His TAG Heuer Carrera is a reminder to never forget where he came from, and to remain ambitious.
Justin Gallen And His Ulysse Nardin Army Corps Of Engineers Pocketwatch
Los Angeles resident Justin Gallen is the proud owner of his great-grandfather's Ulysse Nardin pocket watch. His great-grandfather was a stationmaster for the Pennsylvania railroad from the 1930s to the 1950s. Justin – now a custodian of the watch for over 30 years – took a deep dive into its history and discovered that it was one of 846 pieces produced in 1916. Over the years, it's been not only a stylish accessory, but also a fun conversation piece in his family.
Matthew Spreadbury And His Tudor Black Bay Steel
Matthew is a native Brit living in Norway. As a primary care physician on an island just below the Arctic Circle, Matthew needed a tool watch that was robust enough to handle not only the demands of his job, but also his adventurous lifestyle. Some of Matthew's most notable memories with the watch include a ski crash, hiking in Argentina, and performing medical duties in southern Sudan. He's a big believer in living a full life worthy of what a well-made tool watch can handle.
Ready To Submit Your Own Watch Story? Here's How It Works
1. Pick one watch that is very special to you, and get your camera phone ready.
2. Record a video telling us your most interesting or meaningful story about your watch. Let's say 2-3 minutes is the sweet spot – if you go longer, that's okay. (And please remember to introduce yourself: your name and where you are from.)
3. Get creative, keep it clean, and have fun!
4. Take some photos on the wrist and a few shots of the watch so that we can proudly display them on our site. Horizontal, please.
5. To share your video and photos, you can either A) upload here; or B) upload to your preferred large file transfer service and send a link to mywatchstory@hodinkee.com.
Announced to mark the 50th anniversary of the world's first titanium wristwatch, Citizen has recently launched its new Super Titanium Armor series. Representing a further evolution in the brand's solar-powered titanium watches, the Armor series is comprised of a 41mm time and date model and a pair of 44mm chronographs (with or without gold accents). With integrated bracelets and Teutonic lines meant to invoke the look and feel of armor plates, all three models are made of Citizen's own "Super Titanium," which is titanium that has been treated to the brand's Duratect surface-hardening. The goal? A super-light sports watch that won't scratch as easily as those made from standard titanium.
Initial Thoughts
In 1970, Citizen launched the first-ever titanium wristwatch with its X-8 chronometer and, over the past 50 years, the brand has become closely tied to the idea of an accessible and tech-forward titanium watch. Sticking to that script, the Armor line's Super Titanium is reportedly 50% more scratch-resistant than stainless steel while maintaining the material's characteristic light wrist presence thanks to titanium being some 40% lighter than steel.
The Duratect surface treatment also enables Citizen to change the color of the metal and to more easily apply a wide range of finishing without sacrificing overall scratch resistance. Surface-level hardening will certainly improve scratch-resistance (surface hardening is not uncommon, especially from Citizen). But these sorts of hardening treatments are less effective in mitigating larger hits and knocks that can penetrate the surface layer of the hardening. And while dings and dents are possible with any sporty watch, if you've ever owned a titanium watch, you'll likely agree that it doesn't take much at all for the material to be covered in tiny hairline scratches – which is the sort of wear and tear that hardening can help alleviate.
While the Armor line is indeed a new range for Citizen, it's not the first time we've seen the company use Super Titanium on a watch, and the material can be found in a handful of watches from the brand, including the burly Promaster 1000M, the Captain America, and the ani-digi classic Promaster Skyhawk. Speaking specifically about these models in the Armor line (and my love of comparative data), I do wish Citizen could provide some statement as to the weight of each model. (I have asked for these specs but have yet to hear back.)
Interestingly, both the three-hander and the chronograph feature rotating bezels, with the former offering a dive-style unidirectional elapsed timing bezel, and the latter a bezel that rotates to reveal the watch's crown and pushers. While not shown "open" in any of the images provided by Citizen, the chronograph's bezel appears to have an asymmetrical shape, so you can choose to have the controls either shielded or uncovered. This is definitely something I'd like to see in greater detail as it looks to be a clever design. See above for a look at the "closed" position of the bezel along with a side view showing the crown and pushers.
Admittedly, the $650 44mm chronograph models are likely too much for my wrist, but I think the $550 three-hander AW1660-51H – with its angular good looks, slightly techy vibe, and matched bracelet – looks like a strong value for a modern Eco-Drive that should stand up to whatever has been scratching all of your other watches.
The Basics
Brand: Citizen Model: Super Titanium Armor Reference Number: AW1660-51H (time and date), CA7050-57H (chronograph), CA7058-55E (chronograph with gold dial accents)
Diameter: 41mm (time and date), 44mm (chronograph) Case Material: Duratect-treated Super Titanium Dial Color: Grey Indexes: Applied Lume: On hands Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Integrated Super Titanium bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: J810 (time and date), B642 (chronograph) Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date (time and date); hours, minutes, sub-seconds, 1/5th of a second chronograph display, 60-minute counter, date (chronograph) Additional Details: Quartz with Eco-Drive solar powering
As Grand Seiko has continued to evolve over the last few years (the watches only became available outside Japan, in various international markets, in 2010, and Grand Seiko was split off from Seiko as its own brand in 2018, as HODINKEE Executive Editor Joe Thompson reported), its identity has changed enormously from the insider's secret that it was in the earlier part of the 2000s. What hasn't changed is the commitment to quality and craftsmanship, but the company is now available across a far wider range of prices than ever before (the idea of a near-$80,000 Grand Seiko is still something I'm getting used to), and Grand Seiko has become, in recent months, an obvious locus for the exploration of further refinements in technical watchmaking as well.
We have had two new calibers introduced this year – the new Spring Drive caliber 9RA5, and a new Hi-Beat caliber, with a new escapement, the caliber 9SA5. Both represented significant improvements in versatility and performance over their immediate predecessors, but the 9SA5 was, for mechanical watch enthusiasts, undoubtedly the bigger news, especially since you don't exactly hear about new escapements every day – particularly ones that can be produced on an industrial scale (though, for the moment, the movement exists in just the SLGH002, in which it was launched).
Grand Seiko has just announced that, in parallel with the development process for the 9SA5, it was also working on a concept movement project, which according to GS helped produce data which was instrumental in the evolution of the 9SA5 into its final form. This concept movement is pretty interesting in its own right – the tourbillon caliber T0, which, in addition to being the first tourbillon from Grand Seiko, is also the first watch of any kind from GS (or any other Seiko brand, for that matter) to incorporate the constant force device known as the remontoire.
Caliber T0, constant-force tourbillon, with dual mainspring barrels and double tourbillon cage.
I say that this is the first-ever tourbillon from Grand Seiko, and it is. However, it's not the first Seiko tourbillon – that was the Credor "Fugaku" tourbillon, which we had an opportunity to go hands-on with back in 2016. That, however, was a fairly conventional tourbillon at least from a mechanical standpoint, although it certainly was a dramatic piece artistically, with a very elaborate enamel dial representing a famous print by Hokusai, The Great Wave Off Kanagawa. I think there are actually some aesthetic similarities between that tourbillon and the T0 (that's "tee zero" by the way), although mechanically speaking, the T0 is a far more technically advanced mechanism.
Leaving aside aesthetics, however, I think that the T0 tourbillon is a much closer relative to the 9SA5. Both are calibers which, though obviously designed as an expression of uniquely Grand Seiko aesthetics, also are primarily concerned with precision timekeeping, which has been, in turn, a primary concern with Grand Seiko since its inception. The T0 was designed specifically to test the limits reachable in terms of precision and accuracy, in a testbed movement implementing new manufacturing processes and technologies. The performance of the T0 over the 50-hour running time during which the remontoire is engaged is very impressive: ±0.5 seconds maximum deviation in rate per day. Grand Seiko is careful to point out that this data comes from testing under laboratory conditions, which would not necessarily duplicate real-life results, but to get rate stability, even under such circumstances, which improves on the chronometer spec by an order of magnitude, is remarkable.
Caliber 9SA5, Hi-Beat with Grand Seiko Dual Impulse Escapment.
There are very few watches of any kind fitted with a remontoire, and the number of watches which include both a tourbillon and a remontoire is very small indeed. Francois-Paul Journe was the first to fit a remontoire to a tourbillon in a wristwatch in 1991, but since then, there have been precious few such watches introduced. IWC introduced the Sidérale Scafusia which, in addition to the remontoire on the tourbillon, also has a sidereal time complication. There is also the little-known but most impressive and interesting Haldimann H2 Flying Resonance Tourbillon which, in addition to being a resonance tourbillon with two balances on the carriage and a flying tourbillon and a resonance tourbillon, also has two remontoires on each of the two escape wheels. We should also not forget the Andreas Strehler Trans-Axial Tourbillon, to which HODINKEE's Nick Manousos introduced us last year. There is also an unfinished pocket watch movement by George Daniels, in the London Science Museum, which has a co-axial escapement and remontoire – and perhaps one of the most extraordinary watches to combine the remontoire with a tourbillon, is a pocket watch with double escape wheels and a remontoire on each escape wheel, by the late Derek Pratt. The combination of a tourbillon with a remontoire is sufficiently rare and unusual that each one of these watches and their calibers – including the T0 – present unique features and mechanical solutions.
The motivation behind the invention of the remontoire (the first to be placed in a watch was one designed by John Harrison for his H4 marine chronometer, although he had invented one earlier, for the H2 experimental sea clock) is that the torque provided by a mainspring decreases as the mainspring winds down. This, in turn, tends to amplify poise and positional errors, so ideally you would have a way of supplying an unvarying amount of torque to the escapement and balance. The fusée and chain was invented to address this issue, which was most severe in the early days of horology thanks to the unavailability of anything other than plain steel mainsprings, and also owing to the sensitivity of the verge escapement (especially pre-balance spring) to variations in power. The fusée is an excellent solution, but it does take up considerable space in the movement, and as well, it doesn't provide the most exact possible solution to providing constant torque. Strehler put it very well in his discussion of his own tourbillon with Nick, remarking, "Due to its construction with a defined fusée spiral, the chain-and-fusée only compensates a theoretical variation of the torque of the mainspring, but not the power variation of the real mainspring, friction variations, influences from complications, and so on. These factors can only be compensated by a remontoire, situated immediately before the escapement and acting like a filter."
Tomoe symbol, the threefold variant known as Mitsudomoe; image, Wikipedia.
One interesting note on the design: The balance wheel is modeled after a Japanese symbol known as the tomoe. This symbol resembles the Chinese Taiji symbol (informally known as the yin-yang symbol) and is often found in family crests and in symbolic iconography at Shinto shrines. The symbol is very ancient and has many different levels of meaning – semiotically polyvalent, as my lit-crit friends would say.
A remontoire is essentially a secondary mainspring, which is on one of the going train wheels (the fourth wheel) or on the escape wheel. It is periodically rewound by the mainspring, which does not directly drive the balance – instead, the role of the mainspring is to keep the remontoire spring under constant tension. As long as there is enough energy in the mainspring to keep the remontoire spring wound, there will be essentially a constant amount of torque delivered to the balance.
The inner and outer tourbillon cages (blue) and the upper tourbillon bridge. At about 12:30 you can see the final going train wheel that drives the outer tourbillon carriage. The stop lever for the tourbillon is the blade spring visible just below. The MEMS-fabricated skeletonized escape wheel is at the upper left, 11:00-12:00, and the ceramic stop wheel for the remontoire is at 5:00-6:00.
The caliber T0 was designed by a team led by Takuma Kawauchiya over a five-year period. Power comes from two mainspring barrels which run in parallel – mainspring barrels running in series provide a longer power reserve, but running them in parallel – that is, with both feeding energy to the going train individually, and at the same time – provides double the torque, and this is necessary in the T0 to power the remontoire, which adds considerably to the power demands of the movement overall. The theoretical running time is 72 hours, however the reserve during which there is enough torque for the remontoire is about 50 hours (this reduction is par for the course with remontoires). Hand finishing is found throughout the movement (finishing the components, says GS, took about three months), and a special hardening technique was developed for the second and third going train wheels in order to reduce friction at the teeth and pinions and improve power flow. The two tourbillon cages are in blued titanium, and the balance has adjustable timing screws for rate adjustment and a flat balance spring (this is in contrast to the overcoil found in the 9SA5; the overcoil was omitted in the T0 in order to reduce the already considerable height of the movement). The T0 caliber is large but not unwieldy, at 36mm in diameter and 8.22mm thick with the tourbillon, and 6.09mm without; total parts count is 340 components.
Understanding how the remontoire works can be a little confusing at first – when you first look at the T0, you think you are looking at a three-legged upper tourbillon bridge, under which is a single tourbillon cage with six blued titanium arms. What you are actually looking at are two separate tourbillon cages, each with three arms. The outer cage, which carries the constant force mechanism, is driven by the gear train. The constant force stop wheel, which rotates one tooth per second to keep the remontoire spring wound, and the escape wheel, are both rotating around the same fixed wheel.
Kawauchyiya explains, "As the outer carriage turns, it charges the constant force spring connecting the outer and inner carriage, and the charged energy will drive the inner tourbillon carriage. A pallet stone 'stopper' attached to the inner carriage which meshes with the teeth of the stop wheel [which is made of ceramic] is used to control the distribution of energy from the constant force spring, and as energy of the constant-force spring is released, the energy is supplied to the inner carriage that drives the escape wheel that meshes with the stationary wheel. The escape wheel now supplies constant and uniform energy to the balance. While the inner carriage is rotating, the outer carriage is stopped by the engagement of the stopper and the stop wheel. When the inner carriage rotates by six degrees, the engagement of the stopper and the stop wheel is released and the outer carriage rotates to provide energy to the constant force spring. When the outer carriage rotates by six degrees, the next tooth of the stop wheel engages the stopper and the outer carriage stops again. This sequence of movements takes place in one-second cycles, so that the second hand makes deadbeat motion."
In this video provided by Grand Seiko, you can actually see the outer carriage executing its one-second jump.
One other quite unusual feature of the watch is that it is, relatively speaking, a pretty high-frequency tourbillon, at 28,800 vph (the default seems to be 21,600 vph in modern tourbillon wristwatches). Now, this is not by any means the highest frequency tourbillon ever made – in 2012, the TAG Heuer MikrotourbillonS debuted with two tourbillons, one for the going train and one for the chronograph, and the one for the chronograph ran at 360,000 vph, which is, you know, pretty damned fast. However, I think this may be the highest frequency tourbillon ever equipped with a remontoire.
If you want to see the T0 Tourbillon in person, you will have to travel to Japan – specifically, to the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, in Morioka, which is Grand Seiko's new manufacturing facility, inaugurated earlier this year. As this is a concept piece, it's not for sale (though it would not surprise me if once the news is out that it exists, some person, or some several persons, try to buy it anyway. Nothing piques the interest of the high-end collector like being told they can't have something). It does not always happen that fascinating concept pieces become production watches, but it does happen occasionally – the Cartier ID One and Two concept watches remain, sadly, only (now already half-forgotten) concept projects, but on the other hand, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch is being series produced, which I certainly didn't expect – in minuscule numbers, but still, it's a production watch. I don't know to what extent the remontoire would need to be redesigned for a non-tourbillon watch (I suspect the answer is "considerably"), but I wouldn't mind in the least seeing a hand-wound Hi-Beat non-tourby with a remontoire. In any case, I strongly suspect that GS didn't make this fascinating caliber just to give people who get to Morioka something to admire. In some form, I think some of this tech is going to end up out in the world, in production watches. Time, as usual, will tell.
At first glance, you won't find any vintage design cues in the current Zenith Defy collection. The sport watches that make up this range embody Zenith's boundary-pushing credentials, with bright colors, bold cases, and the frequent presence of industry-first technology. You have to dig a little deeper into the history of the Defy name at Zenith, as well as taking note of the case design that all Defy models share, to uncover what these watches mean for Zenith today. The new Defy is both Zenith's answer to the high-tech world of watchmaking in the 21st century, and also a way for the brand to express forgotten parts of its past.
Today is the first time we're adding any watches from the Zenith Defy collection to the HODINKEE Shop, and we're starting out with four different models. Two of these come from the Defy 21 Chronograph sub-collection, which set a new standard for series-produced high-frequency chronographs upon its 2017 debut, and two from the Defy Classic, which is Zenith's response to the demand for sport watches with integrated-style bracelets and straps.
Over A Century In The Making
Although the Defy collection, in its current form, was only unveiled in 2017, the name can be traced back much further at Zenith, all the way to the late 1800s. That's when Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot produced a number of pocket watches with the French word défi – challenge, in English – written on the dial. These pocket watches were well-regarded for their robust qualities and helped establish the Le Locle-based firm as a producer of sturdy and accurate timepieces. In the late 1960s, the Defy name returned to the Zenith catalog with a series of sport watches whose angular cases resemble those used in today's Defy collection.
The 1960s models featured a number of technical improvements, most notably better resistance to magnetism (some examples even had "Defy Gauss" printed on the dial) and a unique movement suspension system grounded by an elastic, shock-absorbing band. These were rugged watches with a distinct design that predated the development of the luxury sport watch genre by several years.
An early 1970s vintage Zenith Defy that previously sold in the HODINKEE Shop.
The Defy name was basically retired after the 1970s – save for a short revival in the mid-2000s – but in 2017, Zenith once again brought the Defy to the forefront and has since expanded the collection rapidly and in a diverse manner. The Defy line has now become home to some of the most technically impressive Zenith watches ever built, including the Defy Inventor, which features the groundbreaking Defy Lab oscillator (that beats continuously at an astounding 18 Hz, or 129,600 vph); the Defy Fusée Tourbillon, which combines a tourbillon with a chain-and-fusée constant force mechanism; the Defy Double Tourbillon, a chronograph equipped with a pair of dueling tourbillons; and the Defy Zero G, which incorporates a gyroscopic module on the tourbillon to alleviate the effects of gravity. At the same time those high-end and highly limited watches were hitting horological headlines around the world, however, Zenith was also placing an equal amount of attention on growing out the entry-point of its Defy line, all without sacrificing anything in the way of innovation.
While the Defy has a long way to go before supplanting the brand-defining El Primero chronographs, Zenith has now positioned the collection perfectly, by making it the tentpole of the brand's proclivity toward horological innovation and avant-garde design. And these are important considerations since, in recent years, El Primero models have been focused mostly on the production of laser-accurate re-editions of vintage references, like the A384 Revival and the G381 Limited Edition. The contemporary Defy collection makes it clear that Zenith is now not only synonymous with the history of the automatic chronograph, but it's also a leader in moving the genre forward today.
Defy, Refined
Zenith is one of the few major Swiss watch brands to use mechanical movements exclusively and to produce each one in-house. That's right: You won't find a single sourced or quartz movement powering any of the watches in the brand's four core collections. In the Defy models we're adding to the HODINKEE Shop today, Zenith relies on variants of its famous El Primero chronograph movement as well as its three-handed standby, the Elite.
All the new Defy watches, regardless of the price point or movement inside, share a similar case profile that recalls 1970s Defy watches. Defined by its blocky, not-quite-tonneau shape and sharp angles, this same case design can be found in every recent Defy release, in spite of their vast differences in complications, materials, and sizes. Zenith gives the past of the Defy a clear presence in its current form through its complex case geometry. All four of today's new watches also feature bold, openworked dials and cases made from titanium, with one sporty outlier in ceramic.
The Zenith Defy 21 Chronograph
The Zenith Defy 21 Chronograph was the first watch to be unveiled as part of the new Defy lineup in 2017, and it's served as one of the collection's headliners ever since. The Defy 21 is the only current production chronograph from any brand that can record elapsed time up to one-hundredth of a second, which Zenith manages through a central chronograph seconds hand that is capable of making a single, lightning-quick rotation around the dial every second. There are a few other watch brands that have achieved a similar rate in the past, including TAG Heuer and Montblanc, but Zenith is the first brand to place the technology into a production watch for well under $50,000. And with an entry price tag of $12,100, the Zenith Defy 21 Chronograph stands out as a serious value proposition in comparison.
All of this is made possible through the El Primero 9004 caliber inside, which stands out for a few key reasons. This fully integrated movement is based on the original El Primero, but it incorporates a second gear train with a high-frequency escapement that runs at 360,000 vph, or 50 Hz, as well as a second mainspring barrel. There's the normal timekeeping part of the watch that is similar to the traditional El Primero with its 5 Hz frequency, or 36,000 vph, and then there's the secondary stopwatch-specific part of the movement that is isolated so that it doesn't drain energy from the base timekeeping mechanism. There is no clutch that connects the two independent parts of a whole – although both are integrated on the same mainplate – so running the chronograph causes zero timekeeping fluctuations or loss in amplitude for the primary time display.
This is most clearly illustrated by the fact that each regulation system has a separate power reserve. The standard hour and minutes have the standard El Primero 50-hour power reserve, while the chronograph can only be run in 50-minute increments – which is why you may have noticed that no Defy 21 Chronograph has an hour sub-dial.
Interestingly, because both mainspring barrels are independent of one another, they are each wound separately. Conventional timekeeping is wound either through the rotor or by turning the crown counterclockwise, while the chronograph can only be wound by manually turning the crown clockwise. A power reserve indicator is located underneath 12 o'clock to indicate the chronograph running time. Silicon is used for the escape wheels and pallet forks, to ensure the high-frequency movement operates cleanly and without friction. Finally, Zenith has each Defy 21 Chronograph certified as a chronometer by Time Lab, an independent Swiss organization.
With so much emphasis on the movement inside the Defy 21, Zenith placed it on full display with a totally openworked dial layout, which allows for an unimpeded view of the El Primero 9004 at work. You can see the balance wheel for the primary timekeeping at eight o'clock, with its mainspring barrel near 12 o'clock; the separate chronograph balance wheel is visible through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. Since the Defy 21 can measure time up to a one-hundredth of a second, Zenith made sure it could be done legibly. A chapter ring measuring from one to 100 is placed on the watch's rehaut, with a 60-second flange directly beneath it. There are three sub-dials, one measuring chronograph minutes at three o'clock, one for chronograph seconds at six o'clock, and constant seconds at nine o'clock.
Having two, separate independent gear trains with their own barrels and oscillators placed in a single movement requires ample space, which is one reason why the fully cased Defy 21 Chronograph measures 44mm in diameter and 14.45mm in thickness. Zenith has prioritized the use of lightweight titanium for the case metal to balance the wearability despite the large size. The short lugs and the angular case profile that have become synonymous with the contemporary Defy line also help in this regard.
The two Defy 21 Chronographs that have just arrived in the HODINKEE Shop differ in how Zenith has executed the color of the movement bridges and the finish of the case. The Defy 21 Ultraviolet is a brand-new release for 2020 with bridges and a rotor that have been anodized to reach a vivid violet hue, which Zenith says is a first in watchmaking. It's a rich, royal color of purple that has an immediate visual impact. Zenith balances it out with closed grey sub-dials and a matte grey micro-blasted finish on the titanium case. It's completed by a black rubber strap with a matching purple fabric top layer.
Zenith was inspired to use this shade of purple on the Defy 21 because violet is considered to be the color with the highest frequency of all those that make up the visual spectrum (being one step away from invisible ultraviolet, of course). The violet shade is also a perfect match to the shimmering purple-blue silicon elements that are visible inside the movement.
The rotors used in the Defy collection are openworked in the shape of Zenith's star emblem.
The second new Defy 21 Chronograph in the HODINKEE Shop has a brushed and polished titanium case and anodized blue elements on the movement bridges and rotor. With openworked sub-dials, this is closer to the first execution of the Defy 21 Chronograph, from 2017. There's a nice mix of high-and-low happening in this chronograph through the blue alligator leather lining on the black rubber strap. It's a good match for the combination of kinetic action and design panache that has come to define the Defy 21 series.
Zenith has unquestionable pedigree when it comes to the production of high-frequency chronographs, which dates back to El Primero's 1969 debut. The Defy 21 Chronograph represents a new-age approach to Zenith's best-known product category, and it's available now in the HODINKEE Shop. The Defy 21 Chronograph in titanium with a blue dial is priced at $12,100, while the Defy 21 Ultraviolet Chronograph is priced at $13,100. To learn more, click here.
Zenith Defy Classic
While the Defy 21 Chronograph represents a compelling value for its combination of one-of-a-kind technical attributes and a bold visual language, there is another division within the Defy lineup that offers an ideal entry-point into Zenith watches of all types. These sport watches are closer in design to the original 1970s Defy watches, which is likely what gives the Defy Classic collection its name. Each watch features an in-house Zenith Elite automatic movement that is visible through an openworked display, with a case made of either lightweight titanium or ceramic.
The skeleton-style dial layout deconstructs Zenith's famous five-pointed star emblem with five fork-style bridges that stretch out from the watch's central axis, exposing the manufacture movement inside and offering a surprising level of symmetry not typically found on skeleton-style watches. And that's not the only reference to the Zenith star branding you'll find on the Defy Classic. The counterweight on the seconds hand is in the shape of a star, as is the movement rotor. Our favorite reference to the brand's logo, however, comes with the escape wheel that is inside the movement architecture but is visible through the open dial. It's made out of silicon, and its interior grooves have been shaped like a star. If you look closely for the natural blue-purple hue of silicon in the above image, you can see it between nine and 10 o'clock.
The Zenith Elite 670 SK movement inside the Defy Classic is crafted in-house by the brand at its Le Locle manufacture. This movement contains 187 components and offers a running autonomy of 50 hours. While not as well-known as an El Primero chronograph movement, the Elite calibers are high quality and offer hacking seconds and the ability to change the date both forward and backward without issue. A date ring is visible around the entire movement, but the specific date is indicated at the six o'clock position and is highlighted by a slight frame.
Zenith released the first Defy Classic in titanium in 2018, and followed it up with a series of ceramic editions in 2019. We have one option in each case metal newly available in the HODINKEE Shop: a single watch in grade-five titanium with a matching bracelet, and a second watch in white ceramic with a white rubber strap.
The titanium case has a striking appearance that is similar to what is typically associated with today's luxury sport watches, featuring an integrated-style bracelet with H-shaped links. The entire front-facing portions of the watch are vertically brushed, while the bevels and chamfers on the bezel, case, and bracelet are all polished. The visible bridges and movement components are grey, matching the case, while the chapter ring is a metallic shade of blue that adds some legibility to the timekeeping display.
Where the titanium-clad Defy Classic has an aggressive and sporty appearance that is immediately apparent, the white ceramic iteration has a more laid-back, casual appeal that is no less wearable. Ceramic watches like this Defy Classic offer plenty of benefits to their owners. The material is completely wear-resistant, which ensures its color will not fade with time and no patina will form from age or wear. Where the white color of the case is loud and eye-catching, the size of the case, at a compact 41mm wide and 10.75mm tall (the same dimensions as the titanium), offers excellent proportions on the wrist, even wearing smaller than expected.
The lightweight nature of the ceramic and titanium case emphasizes the Defy Classic's natural sporty appeal. The watches are also thin enough to easily slip underneath a shirt cuff, granting the Defy Classic added flexibility between relaxed and formal settings. Although the two new Zenith Defy Classic models vary wildly in execution, they both offer a modern and impressive design that doesn't ape any other sport watch available today. Both models are priced at $7,700, and you can learn more here.
Discover The Zenith Defy Collection In The HODINKEE Shop
Zenith pioneered the original high-frequency chronograph with 1969's El Primero, but its modern Defy 21 version shows how far the brand is willing to innovate today. Likewise, the Defy Classic offers a revamped and thoroughly contemporary perspective of the 1960s and 1970s Defy visual language, with a focus on dynamic, openworked elements that highlight the in-house Elite movement inside. The Defy collection represents Zenith at its contemporary best – combining high-mech horology with an unapologetic approach to design. You can explore our entire collection of Zenith Defy watches right here.
There are many countries in which people seem to live to eat. The cuisine cultures of Italy, Japan, and Spain stand out. But is there any nation with a prouder gastronomic tradition than that of France? The bistro dishes alone: duck confit, steak frites, cassoulet, onion soup. To sit and enjoy a moment of leisure, nourished by these hearty classics and a glass of house wine, is something verging on a French national pastime – a rite enjoyed by businessmen, civil servants, artisans, and construction workers alike when the clock strikes noon. Most remarkable about these classic dishes is how they show us that in cooking, more often than not, simplicity is the surest path to deliciousness. Worthy ingredients from the land (or the sea), close attention to detail, and a careful watch on, above all, time, are the most important factors for making good food.
This is true of oeuf mayonnaise, a dish consisting of hard-boiled eggs and, well, mayonnaise – that simple sauce, little more than an emulsion of raw egg and oil, perhaps with some dijon and fresh lemon juice. A French classic that can be whipped up from scratch in minutes, oeuf mayonnaise is best thought of as boiled eggs in egg sauce. Or, from the perspective américaine, as deconstructed egg salad intended to be consumed not between the bread of a sandwich, but as a proper dish. Of course, as with any good French meal, you will want bread on the table, preferably in the form of a warm, crusty baguette.
Oeuf mayonnaise is a dish that some gourmets take seriously enough to have started an organization dedicated to its preservation. The Association de Sauvegarde de l'Oeuf Mayonnaise (ASOM), which was founded by the late food writer Claude Lebey, has even produced a charter establishing the benchmark for how oeuf mayonnaise ought to be prepared: It should be made from a large hen's egg, and the egg should be fully cooked through, but not overcooked.
ASOM puts on an annual competition in which chefs from France and abroad converge on the City of Lights and go egg-to-egg before an eggspert jury to determine whose oeuf mayonnaise reigns supreme. This is where the Egg Master, a watch created by the independent French watchmaker MAT (Mer-Air-Terre), best known for making tactical/military watches, comes in. Built for timing the perfect boiled egg, the Egg Master is the official watch of this year's "Eggs Mayonnaise World Championship," as the competition is known. MAT Watches is also the competition's official timekeeper.
In order to enter the Eggs Mayonnaise World Championship, competing chefs must preside over restaurants in which oeuf mayonnaise appears on the menu. A panel of judges rates the contestants' plates according to five criteria: general appearance and presentation (out of 20); general taste (out of 20); size, cooking, and taste of the egg (out of 20); quality, texture, and taste of the mayonnaise (out of 20); and accompaniment (out of 20). The most recent champ is Chef Clément Chicard of the highly regarded Bouillon Pigalle, a laidback eatery specializing in French classics in Paris' 18th arrondissement. Chicard's award-winning dish is listed first on his menu, which makes mention of its world-champion status. Ever a dish of the people, the best oeuf mayonnaise in the world will set you back a mere €1.90.
I first learned of the Egg Master from the French watch journalist Paul Miquel, a foodie who recently joined ASOM. He and his good friend, Fabrice Pougez, CEO of the French watchmaker MAT, hatched a plan for a watch to time the cooking of eggs and pitched the idea to ASOM. (In addition to running MAT, Pougez is also foodie, a member of ASOM, and on the Eggs Mayonnaise World Championship jury; with a smile, he told me that he's still trying to be a chef.)
Made in France with a Swiss quartz movement, the Egg Master is essentially a yacht timer in which the countdown function has been adapted for cooking, rather than maneuvering toward a regatta's starting line. With the crown, one can position the central hand to count down events. Positioning the hand directly on the egg located between 8 and 9 minutes on the Egg Master track will count eight minutes and 40 seconds, the perfect cooking time for oeuf mayonnaise. The quartz-powered timer beeps every minute as the finish time approaches, and speeds up in the final moments, ensuring that the cook is well positioned to retrieve their egg from the pot of boiling water. On the dial, you'll find ASOM's crest – a plate of eggs – along with the organization's motto, which translates to "Time flies, eggs are forever."
I'm the first to admit that the concept of a chronograph for cooking eggs is pretty whacky. But is it really any whackier than a watch engineered to countdown the start of a regatta? As a die-hard foodie, it's nice to see activities that I love – cooking and eating – placed on equal horological footing with loftier pursuits like driving, diving, sailing, and flying.
A limited edition of 99 pieces offered with three interchangeable straps, the Egg Master is being sold online by subscription at the MAT Watches website for a price of €1,199.
The 2020 installment of the Eggs Mayonnaise World Championship was to take place next week at Paris' Brasserie Gallopin, but the situation caused by COVID-19 has resulted in some recent scheduling changes. Pougez, the watch's maker, says the Egg Master will still launch on September 7 at a smaller event with the president and co-presidents of ASOM, some members of the jury, and others involved in the watch's design. Some chefs have also been invited for a blind tasting. Pougez says that the world championship will be held later in 2020.
The MAT Egg Master. 44 x 14.2mm stainless steel case with screw-down crown. Water resistance to 100 meters. Antireflective sapphire crystal. Swiss caliber ISA 8270 with functions for hours, minutes, seconds, the date, and countdown timer. Delivered with interchangeable straps in blue rubber, blue canvas, and natural leather. Price: €1,199. For information, visit MAT Watches.
It's a common tale of woe. You are walking around the house – innocently enough – when, all of a sudden … SMACK! You nick your watch on the outside of a doorjamb. You look down to find a streak of white paint spread across the surface of the crystal. As your heart rate rises, you think to yourself, "I've done it now, this is the end of the line." With trepidation, and not a lot of confidence, you begin scratching away at the white mark with your fingernail. Slowly but surely, it disappears. Crisis averted, for now. This is just one of many situations that can arise over the life of wearing a watch with an acrylic crystal. If you're a vintage watch lover, then you are quite familiar with this. If you have an intellectual interest in becoming a vintage watch owner (or collector), the idea of owning a watch with an acrylic crystal may be giving you pause.
About a year ago, I went over to a local watch store, as I'm wont to do. In fact, if I'm ever in close proximity to a store that sells watches, there is a 90% chance I am going to pay a visit. Mind you, this does not mean I am always buying a watch, but merely browsing, talking shop with the staff, and trying things on. In the days when certain watches were still in shop windows and display cases, it was a lot more fun.
So on this particular day, I had come in to check out a certain watch that was available with an acrylic crystal. I asked one of the members of the staff to take it out of the case for me. We began chatting about it loosely, trading horological factoids and what not. I asked what her thoughts were on the watch, to which she replied, "This is a great watch but, because of the crystal, it is not suitable for daily wear."
I found that to be rather interesting, but ultimately not surprising. It reminded me of a period of time, early in my days of watch "scholarship," when I was quite skeptical when it came to the acrylic crystal. I tended to avoid it, in favor of the more "durable" sapphire. Ironically, the majority of my watch collection (however small it may be) is made up of watches with acrylic crystals. As my interest in watches expanded, I came back around to it and realized that, despite its occasional bad rap (stemming almost exclusively from a fear of scratches), it is far and away my favorite, if given the choice.
Many people ultimately shy away from acrylic because they prefer a watch they don't have to think about, or one they don't have to baby. Interestingly enough, that is exactly how I think about the acrylic crystal. To me, it is rugged, durable, and lasting. So, whether you are a staunch acrylic defender, or a sapphire steward, I want to walk you through some of the reasons I find it to be so very appealing.
To begin, let's talk about what acrylic is. Acrylic (polymethyl methacrylate) is a highly durable and impact-resistant plastic. It's sometimes referred to as "acrylic glass" and was synthesized independently by several different labs in the late 1920s. It's transparent and thermosetting (you can heat it until it's pliable and mold it, and it solidifies once it cools), and it's known under a number of different trade names. "Plexiglass" was one of the first (courtesy the folks at the German firm, Röhm & Haas AG, who came up with the name in the early 1930s), but over the years, it's been marketed under a number of different trade names, including Perspex and Lucite. It was used heavily during WWII for airplane windows, canopies, and turrets. Its benefits include high optical clarity, dimensional stability, and a lightweight nature. Given that it is a type of plastic, it is also less apt to shatter than conventional glass.
Nowadays, when we think of the acrylic crystal, we think vintage tool watches. But that is far from a complete picture. It is actually a neat intellectual exercise to think that certain watches that represent luxury and success were fitted with what amounts to a piece of plastic over the dial. Staple Rolex models such as the Datejust and the Day-Date utilized acrylic crystals for years, and I doubt many would consider those to be tool watches. Ironically, it was the Datejust Oysterquartz that broke from the mold as the first in the Crown's collection to consistently feature a sapphire crystal.
Sapphire is definitely the most commonly used crystal in high-end watchmaking today. It is favored due to its higher level of hardness. On the Mohs scale, sapphire registers a level nine in terms of overall hardness, while acrylic tests at a three. The hardness of a particular material essentially refers to its resistance to scratches. It is on this point where sapphire wins the day. Unless you take a diamond and drag it along the surface of a sapphire crystal, it is unlikely you will ever see a blemish on it. Of course, there is always the rare exception (more on that later). With its high tolerance to scratches, however, comes an even higher susceptibility to shattering. This is where the acrylic crystal has sapphire's number.
For this thought exercise, I have chosen two vintage watches with acrylic crystals to use as illustrations: a matte dial Submariner and a solid yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date. One is unabashedly a tool watch, and the other an iconic status symbol, and yet, the crystals are the same. Both of these watches are aspirational pieces for me, and while they occupy different spaces in terms of style, they are both capable "one watch, goodbye" watches. The modern iterations of both of these pieces sport sapphire crystals, so why would I rather wear the older, less technically capable, and scratch-prone versions?
Well, for one thing, scratches tell stories. I know that it is a sort of played-out adage, but it is nevertheless true. The acrylic crystal picks up hairline scratches like crazy. The first one will bug you, no doubt, but with each subsequent addition, you will start to remember the occasions that created them. After a while, the crystal will be filled with battle scars, cloudy spots, and bruises. All of this is evidence that the watch has been well worn. But what if you don't want scratches? Well, the acrylic crystal allows for that too. You see, there are a variety of polishing compounds on the market designed to remove these blemishes, and they are quite inexpensive. They have an almost toothpaste-like consistency and, with a small cloth, you can apply the compound to the watch, rub it in, and take those light scratches right off.
The polishing compound seeps within the acrylic surface, where the myriad hairline scratches are found, and acts as a binding agent to rid the crystal of such scratches and imperfections. This is particularly handy when curing boneheaded mistakes. I am talking mistakes like trying to clean your watch crystal with a nail file. I mean ... who would do such a thing? That was a purely fictional example, but just know that if you did do that, you would really scratch the crystal. Like I said at the top, there are also instances where you errantly knock your wrist into a wall and take the paint off. While the damage to your watch will look bad, you will find a few rubs with your fingernail will do the trick.
The acrylic crystal has also stood the test of time. All of those military Submariners that you go crazy for saw time on the battlefield in elements you couldn't subject your watch to if you tried, and they did it all with an acrylic crystal. The Day-Date is fondly referred to as the President because it was on the wrists of such former U.S. presidents as Johnson, Nixon, Ford, and Reagan. At the time each of them wore it, you better believe it had an acrylic crystal.
In addition, one of the main criteria for NASA when selecting the watch that would go to space was that the crystal needed to be shatter-proof. Omega delivered the Speedmaster, equipped with an acrylic crystal (although it is referred to as Hesalite). The advantage of acrylic over sapphire or mineral glass is that it tends to crack, rather than shatter, so if the watch gets a nasty bang, you don't have little shards of glass floating around the inside of the spacecraft.
I spent years worrying about the value of my watch, and its "fragile" acrylic crystal, before finally seeing the light. Sometimes, ignorance is bliss. I tend to envy people who occupy the space outside of this watch hobby, but still appreciate the watches they own on a personal level. Case in point, I grew up fawning over my father's Submariner. He wore that thing everywhere, doing everything. He wore it in the gym, on the lawnmower, and in the garden. For him, his watch was a tool. When he bought it, it cost $150, and despite the skyrocketing value, he still thinks of it as a $150 watch. Does the crystal have scratches? Sure it does, but it holds up to intense scrutiny and still manages to effectively tell time.
It was through seeing that that I picked up my own watch-wearing habits. One of my most worn watches is, likewise, a Submariner with an acrylic crystal. It was built to be a tool, and I have used it as such. You see, you can drop a watch with an acrylic crystal on the ground, and it won't shatter. There is real peace of mind to be had from that.
Some things that I think about when buying a new watch are legibility and how reflective a particular watch's crystal is. Many brands will apply an anti-reflective coating to a watch to aid in protection against direct sunlight. With acrylic, such application is not needed. Inherent to its composition is a high clarity and resistance to UV rays. The acrylic crystal is like looking into the clearest waters, with the dial beneath ready to greet you.
Then there is the weight. Acrylic is light. Vintage watches are lighter than modern watches, and much of that has to do with the crystal. With the proliferation of vintage-inspired watches, there has also been a steady increase in the development of domed or boxed sapphire crystals. The purpose is to somewhat emulate the effect of acrylic, while offering a harder, more scratch-resistant alternative. You see, on the acrylic crystal, there is this subtle shaping around the outside edges, domed, or boxed. Given that the crystal sits raised above the dial in this way, you get amazing distortions.
None of this is to say that sapphire is bad, or lesser, or anything of the kind. I completely understand the shift away from acrylic. Things like patina and scratches were incidental, unintended effects of the creation of a watch. A brand sets out to make a watch, and the watch they produce is what they deem to be perfect and complete. They don't make it with the idea that the white markers will turn brown, the dial will oxidize, and the crystal will get scratched. With the use of sapphire, ceramic, and newer (less radioactive) luminous compounds, watches are able to remain as they are for all time. I own watches with sapphire crystals, and there is a similar comfort in knowing I can ram it into a doorjamb without fear of a scratch.
Like I mentioned earlier, there are always exceptions. Just a few months ago, as I was completing my nightly ritual of staring at my watch for 10 minutes before bed, I noticed something. On the sapphire crystal, toward the bottom of the dial, was a light, but long, hairline scratch, unnoticeable from some angles, but unmissable from others. I don't personally wear diamonds, so I have little idea where this came from, but as you can tell, it bothers me to this day.
It was then that my love for the acrylic crystal was cemented. You see, a sapphire crystal may never get a scratch, but when it does, there are no compounds to remove it. A scratch is a permanent fixture. The acrylic, on the other hand, takes to scratches in a more romantic way. Sure there are the occasions where a scratch or a nick is too deep to buff, but even then, amidst the field of battle scars, they still fit in.
If you take anything away from this, I hope it is a sense of fearlessness (insofar as you can be fearless in regards to wearing a watch). I remember the words of that watch store employee often when I am wearing a watch with an acrylic crystal. In the end, the proof is in the pudding. Many a watch has seen many a thing through that distorted plastic glass and lived to tell the tale. There's no better reason to put one on and tell your own.
No milestone to report on this week – just another roundup of what might be five of the most compelling vintage timepieces available for purchase. Included in this installment are a group of early Breitlings, making up a salesman's set, along with two uniquely complicated tool watches from both Heuer and Favre Leuba, and a steal of a Longines. In an effort to ensure you don't leave this webpage without at least one dropped jaw, there's also an Oyster Perpetual with important Air Force provenance.
Breitling Salesman's Set
When sharing pieces of early watchmaking marketing materials, or vintage brand-related ephemera, I usually like to underscore the importance played by these articles in present times. Though they'll serve no substantive purpose in your day-to-day life, these articles offer a glimpse into the way now celebrated watches were once marketed and sold, which is of extreme value to horological scholars and enthusiasts alike. I could easily dig up another poster, book, or retail display, but in the spirit of starting off strong, we've got a beast of a different sort.
The way in which watches are sold to retailers is a worthwhile rabbit hole to go down, should you wish to further understand the industry's evolution. Before the trade shows (which are going by the wayside) were the primary avenue of choice for watchmaker-to-retailer sales, brands and their distributors got creative by hitting the pavement with sets like this one from Breitling. Containing three 30mm pieces touting chronograph complications and full calendar moon-phases, this set of samples would've been intended to make Breitling's capabilities as a watchmaker known, and ultimately expand their retailer network. Based on where the brand is at now, I'd say this angle was a worthwhile play.
Being a salesman's set of samples and not a collection of watches purchased for someone's own use, all three pieces remain in excellent, unworn condition, and still with their original box marked with cursive text reading "Samples." I'd almost argue that the box should be of greater interest than the watches, as the watches you've likely seen in some form before, but the box tells of the brand's structure and strategy. As for whether or not the next owner should actually wear these is one hundred percent up to them, but in the interest of historical preservation, I'd personally hold off.
The Miami dealer Matthew Bain has this set listed on his site for $8,500. Additional photos can be found here.
1970s Time-Only Longines
A different set of motivators guides the collector who gets into vintage watches today versus the one that's been at it for 20 years now. Talk to a few individuals that fit the latter description, and you'll learn that many got in the game as a result of the lower prices once commanded by the old fare. We both know that's no longer the case, though I still suggest looking in the direction of vintage to those with smaller budgets after a watch. Believe it or not, deals do still exist, and if you've got a moment, I'd now like to bring one to your attention.
A while back, I worked on the retail side of the industry, where I quickly learned there's little to be had in the way of new, high-quality watches under the $500 mark from important brands. But this Longines couldn't be a better piece of proof that there are still deals to be had, and attractive ones at that, considering how this time-only reference from the 1970s was configured and preserved.
There's a lot to like about this one, including its clean, sunburst-finish dial, plus the sharp, tonneau-shaped case and Cal. 284 movement that's far more attractively finished than you'd expect for the price point. What I like most about this piece is the fact that its original Longines bracelet is still attached to the watch. As someone who would gladly pay the seller's asking price for the bracelet alone, I view the head as somewhat of a bonus, and oh, is it a welcome one. You're going to want to act quickly – I've got a feeling this one won't last.
An eBay seller based out of Vancouver, British Columbia is offering this one up for CAD 450, which equates roughly to just under $350. You've also got the option to make an offer, so maybe the deal gets even sweeter?
Heuer Orvis Solunagraph Ref. 2446 SF
They say you're not supposed to judge books by their cover, but to be fair, I've found some seriously great books by way of that somewhat shallow tactic of discovery. With that said, the rule is most definitely true when after vintage watches, as all too often, terrific finds are guised behind a cloak made up of decades upon decades of gunk and grime. As always, never allow yourself to be fooled by a cracked crystal, scuffed case, or dirt-seized bezel, and you just might end up with one of these Orvis-branded Heuers sitting pretty on your wrist.
Like other models of the back catalog, this high and low tide-indicating Solunagraph is the result of a partnership with a sporting goods manufacturer. Heuer produced this updated take on the Mareographe for the fishing and hunting retailer Orvis and branded them as such for their eventual sale in an Orvis outpost. Today's Solunagraph corresponds with the reference number 2446 SF, and though case numbers can't be made out in the provided photos, this example likely dates back to the early 1970s, when the second execution of the model entered the picture. This one certainly falls under that subcategory of the reference, based on the presence of its white painted hands and cartoonish lines that trace the interior of the tide-indicating subdial.
Despite the aforementioned gunk and grime that's developed on the surface of this auction piece, it's an otherwise perfect-looking example, checking all the boxes a prospective buyer would have for a rare and unconventionally complicated Heuer. Apart from the aftermarket bracelet, everything would appear to be original and nicely aged, like the flawless dial, correct hands, and rotating bezel that's faded to a muted tone of grey. I'd be willing to bet that all this one needs is a good polishing or replacement of its crystal, a little surface steam cleaning, and potentially an overhaul of the movement.
Merrill's Auctioneers and Appraisers of Williston, Vermont, is offering this Solunagraph in a sale taking place this morning. Its estimate has been set at $3,000 – $6,000.
1961 Favre Leuba Bivouac Ref. 53213
Having mentioned one tool watch with a specific sort of functionality, I thought we'd double down with mention of another favorite that seldom emerges. It also would appear as if a theme of sorts is starting to emerge, as for the third week in a row, we're talking about a Favre Leuba, but this time, it's no Deep Blue. Instead, it's a model that exists somewhat within a category of its own, given the exceedingly few pieces equipped with an altimeter barometer. If you've written off the often loud styling of Favre Leubas in the past, this might be the one to turn things around for you.
1962 marked the introduction of this reference in Favre Leuba's lineup, where it was positioned and marketed as a mountaineer's timepiece. Using atmospheric pressure, the internal barometer yields altitude readings while indicating changes that might suggest adverse incoming conditions. In other words, this watch can get you out of a bind before the bind makes itself known. This complication proved especially useful on the several expeditions to Antarctica, Matterhorn ascents, and trips up the Grandes Jorasses that the Bivouac was used for, confirming that it's not just another pretty face with some half-decent marketing behind it.
Rather conveniently, casebacks of this reference were engraved with their respective years of production, eliminating the possibility of any sort of guessing game. This particular example dates back to 1961 and is likely the cleanest I've come across to date. Most I've seen will have worn bezels, along with visibly aged dials, but this one is about as good as it gets. Further supporting that theory is the original crown that's still in place, the dimension of the bezel's rugged, coin edge, and the black paint which can still be found in the caseback's engravings. Bivouacs aren't exactly the it watch on everyone's hit list, but interest can always be piqued with an outstanding example, and that's exactly what this is.
Antikauktion Krefeld, in Germany, is offering this one up in an auction on September 19, with a starting bid of €1,800.
I don't know about you, but what many saw as the more noteworthy announcement of the week left me a little more than underwhelmed and confused. Instead, it was the new crop of Oyster Perpetuals that had me dialing up the AD, which I'd deem one of the most exciting Rolex announcements in a good long while. Before a debate concerning whether colored dials should equate to excitement emerges, shift your focus towards this OP. We've had a solid showing this week, but in an attempt to end off stronger than usual, we're bringing out the proverbial big guns.
You're looking at a Ref. 6085 Oyster Perpetual which dates back to 1953, though no ordinary example by any stretch. This well-preserved piece was originally retailed in Los Angeles by Brock & Co – the same retailer that sold Clark Gable his Rolex – where it was purchased as a celebratory gift for one Major General Harold E. "Tom" Collins upon setting a speed record of 707.889 mph in an F86D Sabre Jet. Who awarded Collins with the watch is pretty fascinating too, seeing as it's none other than James H. "Dutch" Kindelberger, the CEO of North American Aviation, who manufactured the F86D Sabre.
All of this provenance is extremely well documented, along with the career of Collins himself, through a series of official government and Air Force documents including a DD214. In addition, the watch is being sold with a series of Collins' Society of Experimental Test Pilots membership cards, plus two House of Representatives and Senate visitor's passes of his. But wait! There's more! You've also got photos of the Major General wearing the watch, his flight cap, jacket, nameplates, and more. This really is the stuff of dreams for Rolex collectors after something of historic substance.
San Francisco's Fog City Vintage has the asking price set at $14,850 on this one, which seems reasonable given its significance. Get the full scoop here.
Top image, minute repeating, skeletonized perpetual calendar by Gérald Genta, circa 1990. (Image: Phillips)
To most of us, the late Gérald Genta, who passed away in 2011 at the age of 80 (nine years ago this month), is a man best known for a few watches – the Royal Oak, of course, the Nautilus, and a few others, like the IWC Ingenieur. Genta's actual work was far more extensive – and I mean far more extensive. He designed, by his own estimate, something like a hundred thousand watches – so many that even he couldn't remember all of them. He is thought of by many enthusiasts, on the strength of his work for AP, Patek, and IWC, as a kind of mandarin of minimalism, a model of horological restraint whose work exudes an air of classical harmony and balance – so much so that when Bulgari, who acquired Genta's eponymous company in 2000, launched a new version of one of his Biretrograde watches earlier this month, there were some readers who opined that Genta would have hated the watch. This is understandable as, if you don't know just how many different sorts of watches Genta created, you would tend to think, at least based on the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, that baroque complexity would be anathema to him. But in reality, Genta's incredibly fertile imagination gave birth to some of the most wacky and wonderful watches anyone's ever made.
One of the best resources for understanding Genta in a bit more depth is an interview published in 2009 on VeryImportantWatches.com (viewable as a PDF). The interview is full of quotable quotes and interesting facts – at one point Genta remarks (after saying he doesn't like watches and refuses to wear one), "For me, watches are the antithesis of liberty. I am an artist, a painter, I hate having to adhere to the constraints of time. It irritates me." Given the conditions in Switzerland in the early 1950s, when Genta had just finished his apprenticeship as a jeweler and was trying to scrape a living as a designer in order to support his attempts to succeed as a painter, it's kind of amazing he stuck with it at all. A person could be forgiven for thinking that a watch designer in Switzerland in those days lived the life of Riley, but it was definitely not all champagne at the Beau Rivage and apres-ski manicures in Gstaad – rather incredibly, the going rate was fifteen Swiss per design, Genta remembered.
That meant that early on, Genta was designing for as many different clients as he could, including not just watch brands, but also suppliers. He recalled, "By this I mean that, for example, my direct client wasn't Omega, but Omega's suppliers, and it was in this manner that I participated in the creation of the Seamaster, or of the Constellation, for example by designing the case for the one, or designing a dial or a bracelet for another. Today, even within Omega itself they do not know all that I have done for them, but no matter!" Over the course of his design career, Genta had an incredible range of clients, including some rather unexpected ones – he did work for AP, sure, starting in 1953, but he also designed for Benrus, Hamilton, and Bulova in the USA, and he even designed for Seiko (the Seiko Credor "Locomotive" from 1979) and Rolex (the King Midas). And I know it's a watch whose BVLGARI BVLGARI logo is an invitation for some of us to drink the haterade, but yes, he did the Bulgari Bulgari as well.
In 1969, Genta started his own company, which produced watches under his own name until he sold the firm in 1998 to devote himself to painting. During the period in which he owned and directed the company, it produced watches that, in many cases, are so floridly baroque as to make you wonder how they could possibly have been created by the same guy who gave us the Royal Oak. These included retrograde complications, Disney character watches with retrograde hands, and high complications – often in cases that looked ornamental enough for King Ludwig Of Bavaria.
Gérald Genta Retro Fantasy Mickey Mouse watch, 1996 (Image, Christie's).
Gérald Genta, grande et petite sonnerie with Westminster chimes, perpetual calendar, power reserves for movement and striking train, digital minutes and retrograde hours, white-gold case. See you at the Leopard Lounge, baby.
The Retro Fantasy watches are actually some of my all-time favorite wristwatches from anybody, ever (I have a weakness for Mickey Mouse watches – as a matter of fact, in my pre-HODINKEE days, the first story I ever wrote for Revolution was a history of Mickey Mouse watches. I pitched the story to Wei Koh as a joke during the launch party for Revolution USA, and he told me he wanted 3,000 words). There were a fairly large number of different models, and they were no-holds-barred luxury watches – as a matter of fact, the Retro Fantasy Mickey in white gold was the most expensive Mickey Mouse watch ever made. I have not done much digging around for them lately, but I understand the Goofy Retro Fantasy watches are the hardest to find, if you're in a collecting mood; and there is even an online guide to them on WatchUSeek (the author rather charmingly describes the fact that his grail watch is a white gold Retro Fantasy Mickey as "immature and weird," which might be the most self-aware thing any watch enthusiast has ever said in public, ever.)
After all the stylistic and occasionally ghastly excesses in horology of the last twenty years, a Mickey Mouse luxury watch seems like pretty small beer, but they actually got Genta kicked out of a trade show when he debuted them, in 1984.
Now, admittedly, "scandal capable of rocking the Swiss watch industry" is not setting the bar very high, but the way the organizers of the Montres et Bijoux trade show reacted, you'd think it was the Dreyfus Affair or something. Apparently, the show managers were a pretty humorless bunch even for Swiss trade show managers – trade pub The Eastern Jeweller And Watchmaker wrote:
"They [the show managers] did not see things in this light. They were not prepared to let themselves be touched by such gentle reminiscences. They declared it made no difference that the models in question were made of gold and diamonds, adding coldly that such a serious exhibition as it was their privilege to administer had no room for mice, panthers (especially the pink variety) Popeye, and other unsuitable characters."
Gérald Genta, with three of his better-known creations. Image, Genta Heritage Foundation.
Genta, whose reputation for being outspoken and opinionated was well-deserved and hard-earned, responded to the show's demand that he remove his cartoon character watches from his booth window by leaving the show entirely. You have to wonder what it would take to get kicked out of a trade show nowadays, but it was a different time (HODINKEE executive editor Joe Thompson tells me the show, in New York, was held at the Metropolitan Club, which ought to tell you something about the expected tone ... but, you know, still).
There is much, much, much more to tell about Genta's career, but if you have gotten this far, I hope you have enjoyed finding out that the sometime Mandarin Of Minimalism was not above, at least occasionally, being the Mayor Of Crazytown as well. As his wife Evelyn put it, in an interview with EuropaStar last February, "You have to be free to create. That’s why he never worked for anybody." I encourage everyone to give that interview, and the VeryImportantWatches.com interview, a read – both show that beyond the stereotypes, there was a highly complex, seemingly inexhaustible creative mind which, albeit Genta was a bit of artist manqué, was capable of finding almost limitless ways in which to express itself.
In order to increase awareness of Gérald Genta's work, and to promote his values in modern fine watchmaking, Evelyn Genta has established the Gèrald Genta Heritage Foundation.
One of the great pleasures of video production is going back and revisiting projects years later, recalling how they came together and reliving the shots and editing choices that add up to the final cut. Below, I have curated three videos on independent watchmakers that bring back fond production memories, and which I think are special in their own ways – owing to the gravitas of the subjects, as well as the time and access they granted us.
Longtime HODINKEE readers have likely seen the pieces below, but I'd wager many newer readers likely have not. Whichever camp you are in, I invite you to travel back in time to Le Solliat in 2013, Geneva in 2015, and the Isle of Man in 2016. I believe these three videos hold up as examples of a dedication to a particular way of going about one's craft. As independent watchmakers, Philippe Dufour, François-Paul Journe, and Roger Smith are kindred spirits – and yet their processes, and the watches they make, are so very unique, each a direct reflection of their creators.
Philippe Dufour: Le Solliat, Switzerland (2013)
In 2013, as part of an epic European watch adventure that would come to be known as The Road To Basel, Ben and I had the unique pleasure of spending a little time in the workshop of the one and only Philippe Dufour. I was pretty new to the watch game at the time, but had heard enough about Mr. Dufour to understand his almost mythical standing in the watch world. The workshop – and the legend – did not disappoint. I say "a little time" above because, for scheduling reasons beyond our control, we had about 45 minutes total in the workshop – from setup to breakdown. Every now and then, I say to my video team, when a shoot is proving particularly challenging, "it always works." That was born on that morning in 2013 in Le Solliat.
One of the things about shooting in watch manufactures is that it's often impossible to capture an entire process – from start to finish – in any reasonable timeframe, as these things just don't come together quickly. With smaller, more agile watchmakers though, it's sometimes feasible to demonstrate all the steps, and this was one such case. Here, we were able to show the making of F.P. Journe's most complicated watch, the Sonnerie Souveraine – all within the beautiful confines of the brand's home in a former gas lamp factory in Geneva.
In 2016, as part of The Road Through Britain series, my former colleague Arthur Touchot and I visited Roger Smith on the Isle of Man. While Dufour is unique as a storied one-man operation, he still works in the watchmaking valley of Switzerland; Smith, on the other hand, creates his watches on a remote island in the middle of the Irish Sea. We spent a few days there, watching Roger and his small team at work, driving the famed TT Race Course, and of course, visiting the former home and workshop of George Daniels. One of my favorite moments? Roger, behind the wheel, his wry grin growing ear-to-ear as he put our Bentley Flying Spur W12 through its paces on the quaint backroads of the island.
Morning commuter traffic on the way to Roger Smith's workshop on the Isle of Man.
Holding a George Daniels' hand drawing of the co-axial escapement.
Each week, our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.
The single biggest problem over the medium to long-term for the Internet is an obvious one: privacy. Secure transactions today depend on some of the most sophisticated and elaborate cryptographic algorithms mankind had ever produced – stuff that makes the World War II Enigma machines look like a four-year-old's substitution cipher. But cryptography is an arms race – no sooner is a new algorithm developed than steps are taken to crack the code. The latest shot fired by cryptographers is quantum computing, in which the weird phenomenon known as quantum entanglement is used to produce, in theory, unbreakable private keys, but scaling such systems has proven, thus far, an intractable problem. However, new research – based on a distributed node system – done by researchers at the University Of Bristol has shown a proof-of-concept model for quantum cryptography at a city-sized scale, with no theoretical obstacle to larger-scale implementation. Privacy, thy name is entanglement.
I lived in Denver during the first year of my undergraduate studies. While there, I took a course that concentrated on the novels and essays published during the growth of the United States' conservation movement in the late 20th century – think Edward Abbey, Wendell Berry, and James Galvin. Although I now call a Brooklyn brownstone home, and my freshman syllabus is a distant memory, I still enjoy discovering new written works surrounding the preservation of nature in all its forms. This personal essay by Alice Driver that recently appeared in the Oxford American brought new perspective to me on the ideas of death, consumption, and how we interact with the land we inhabit. Driver follows her father, a potter who was part of the back-to-land movement in the 1970s, as he continues to work on his personal tomb, a project he's discussed and deliberated on for decades. The potential death of a parent is a difficult topic, but Driver covers it with grace, illustrating her father's sensible and sustainable approach to going his own way.
We've all done it. It's weekend movie night at home, and everyone has to agree on what to watch. Someone suggests a film, and you say, "But look, it has a 25% on Rotten Tomatoes!" But what does it all mean? Well, The Ringer posted an article digging deep into the correlation between the movie review website, and the box office performance of films, looking into whether the site is even relevant any more. If you're a movie geek, this is a fun one for sure. I, for one, have never paid much mind to Rotten Tomatoes. Many times I actually find that films which score around 60% (the sweet spot as I call it) are far better than those which are in the high 90 to 100% range. This is a really "inside baseball" analytical look at a fascinating part of the movie business, and it is definitely worth a weekend read.
I used to work for Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, and every issue, we would run a story from the U.S. edition. Long before I ever knew Gary Shteyngart from the watch world or from Lake Success, I knew of him from a byline to an excellent piece we borrowed about doing something so simple and pure: Taking the train to Montreal from NYC. That piece stuck with me. Funny that, years later, I’d be chatting about the new holy trinity of watches with him for a piece that I'd be writing for HODINKEE.
The film and broader pop culture world lost a titan last week, as actor Chadwick Boseman passed away from colon cancer at age 43. You might have first come to know him in his role as Hall of Fame baseball player and civil rights icon Jackie Robinson in 42, or you might remember him from his turn as musical legend James Brown in Get on Up. But, most likely, you can't picture the actor without imaging him placing both fists across his chest while proudly shouting, "Wakanda forever!" Black Panther changed big-budget cinema for good, and its director, Ryan Coogler, penned a stirring tribute to the super-heroic star. Boseman was thoughtful and passionate, Coogler tells us, but above all, he was an "epic firework display." Thankfully, we all got to witness it at its brightest.
In the second part of a three-part series in which Jack explores a few examples of modern and innovative minute repeaters, take a closer look at – and a listen to – Bulgari's incredible Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater.
As remarkably thin as it is limited, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is just 6.85mm thick – despite housing a beautiful and very advanced hand-wound minute repeater-equipped movement. If you missed part one, start here, and then hit the link below for some chime-heavy nerdery.
