When Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 collection in 2019, there were a total of 13 models in six families – time and date; selfwinding chronograph; perpetual calendar; flying tourbillon; openworked flying tourbillon; and a minute repeater (the latter built on the Supersonnerie principles, which were first introduced publicly in the Royal Oak Concept RD#1 in 2015, and a year later, as the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie). The two flying tourbillons are part of a very long history of wristwatch tourbillon development at AP, which goes all the way back to the first series-produced automatic tourbillon wristwatch, the caliber 2870. That watch debuted in 1986 and featured a number of technical innovations, including the use of the caseback itself as the movement plate, and an exceedingly minute titanium tourbillon cage. Notably, the first Code 11.59 tourbillons are hand-wound; however, Audemars Piguet today has announced an automatic version of the hand-wound caliber 2950, which is the caliber 2952 – and the 2952 includes a flyback chronograph as well.

The whole idea of a tourbillon chronograph is not, of course, a new one for AP; as a matter of fact, the first tourbillon chronograph from the company was introduced back in 2003. That watch was the Royal Oak Chronograph Tourbillon Ref. 25977, with the caliber 2889, running at 21,600 vph in 28 jewels. Interestingly, the ref. 25977, while obviously not an ultra-thin watch like the 2870, did share with its predecessor a somewhat unusual v-shaped upper tourbillon bridge (it was, however, a much larger watch, at 44mm x 12.9mm). 

Since then, the tourbillon chronograph seems to have been present in AP's collections mostly as an Offshore-cased, hand-wound wristwatch. In 2014, Ben Clymer reported AP's launch of a "monster" platinum-cased ten-day Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in a full platinum case with a platinum bracelet; the next year saw the launch of an Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in titanium, with the hand-wound caliber 2936. The basic layout of that watch set the stage, in turn, for the aesthetics of the new Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph. Although the caliber 2952 is obviously related to the 2936 in some basic respects, it also appears in many other ways to be a completely novel design, which in fact is also, on cursory visual inspection, significantly different from the Code 11.59 Chronograph. This is not surprising when you consider that, in addition to incorporating a tourbillon, the 2952 is a flyback chronograph as well.

The 2952 is, unsurprisingly, a relatively large movement at 32.6mm x 9.13mm, and in that space, there are 479 parts. Power reserve is 65 hours, and the movement runs at 21,600 vph in 40 jewels. At the high end from Audemars Piguet, you get movement finishing which is second to none, and while any tourbillon chronograph is of interest technically (and probably unique technically as well – every one of them I'm aware of is significantly different from its siblings from other brands), the degree of attention AP gives to the classic arts of black (specular) polishing, anglage, polishing flanks, making and polishing countersinks, and so on, is a significant part of the value in a watch of this stature.

There are, nowadays, basically two approaches to an openworked movement. One is to take an existing caliber, and, using piercing files and saws (or, as is more likely nowadays, a spark erosion cutter, which is more precise and reduces the chance of physically distorting the component), remove as much metal as you can without fatally compromising functionality and the rigidity of the movement. This approach is rare but still used by some companies for certain movements (Jaeger-LeCoultre does it beautifully with the caliber 849, for instance).

The alternative approach, and one which is very much a feature of modern watchmaking, is to create a movement that is "openworked" or "skeletonized" from the outset. The use of either term is not really grammatically or technically correct, as both imply making physical changes to a standard movement. But leaving aside questions of grammar and syntax, designing a skeleton movement from the ground up offers a number of advantages over actually piercing an existing movement. For one thing, it allows you much more control over the movement aesthetics, and for another, you can make a movement with much greater physical stability and reliability. One of my favorite examples of this approach, and its advantages, is from Cartier – the Santos De Cartier Skeleton ADLC Noctambule, in which the luminous numerals on what, at first glance, appears to be the dial are also the movement plate; an approach that would have been impossible if they'd started with a standard movement and tried to skeletonize it.

The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph falls a bit more, as far as I can tell, into the second category, but this creates, in a way, even more creative challenges. If you do not begin with an existing movement, you have instead the greater burden of designing something from the ground up which is both pleasing aesthetically, reliable mechanically, and also, from a design standpoint, different enough from conventional openworking to stand on its own strengths as a piece of horological architecture.

The final point worth considering with this watch is that it is one of the first watches from AP outside the Royal Oak and Offshore lines which attempts to take the haute horlogerie finishing techniques found in a high-end movement and put them on the case as well. Gérald Genta's original design for the Royal Oak was an ode to hand-finishing steel in a case, in a way which, prior to the launch of the RO, had been restricted to movement components. But the Code cases are, in fact, a far more elaborate, and as far as I am aware, unmatched attempt to make haute horlogerie movement finishing a part of the case as well as part of the movement – and indeed, to make it rival what is done on the movement.

That this is the case is a point on which AP has insisted since the launch of the Code 11.59 collection. I would love to be able to report that I have seen the same elaborate finishing applied to cases at AP for the Code 11.59 watches as is applied to the movements, and I have no particular reason to doubt AP in this case, but seeing is believing and, as I can't travel there just yet to verify that this is the case, I can't say without reservation that it is; I hope to be able to, soon, next year. In the meantime, the Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is a rare work of horological art, whose beauty need convince only those lucky enough to see it for themselves.

The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph: Case, white gold, 41mm in diameter, 30 meters water resistant; movement, caliber 2952, 32.6mm x 9.13mm, self-winding flying tourbillon with flyback chronograph; frequency, 21,600 vph, running in 40 jewels with 65-hour power reserve. Price, CHF 240,000. Limited Edition, 50 pieces worldwide. More at Audemarspiguet.com.
 

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Last week was a big one for watches in 2020: Rolex released its new models all at once, on an otherwise quiet Monday evening in New York City. And boy was there some news. The complete overhaul of the Submariner collection made the biggest splash, with all models jumping to 41mm from 40mm and getting a new movement inside. The Oyster Perpetual replaced its 39mm variations with new 41mm variations and a host of bright, colorful dials are now available in all sizes of the classic OP. And a few other models received incremental updates like new strap options and new dial variants. It's all quintessential Rolex updates, but with a little more fun and flair than usual. For the first half of this week's show, I sat down with Ben and Jack to talk through the updates in detail, explore why they matter to collectors, and do some thinking about what these releases tell us about Rolex more broadly.

But Rolex isn't the only watch brand that's been dropping new releases lately. In fact, after a few months that made it look like 2020 might be a quiet year for watches, we're seeing a steady stream of new late-summer drops. With Geneva Watch Days in the rearview mirror, I sat down with James and Jon to talk through some of our favorite new watches from the last few weeks (as well as one that was released a while back but just got an in-depth review treatment from James). We talk about a variety of watches from a variety of brands, including a mechanical Longines with old-school charm, a cutting-edge quartz Breitling with brash styling, and a collection of lightweight sport watches from Bulgari.

We hope you enjoy Episode 103 of HODINKEE Radio. Check out the show notes below, and let us know what you think about the latest releases from Rolex and others down in the comments.

Show Notes

(4:00) The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060

(18:00) The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41

(18:22) Comparing Entry-Level, In-House Automatics From Grand Seiko, Omega, And Rolex

(19:40) A Brief History of Rolex Stella Dial Timepieces

(20:00) The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 With New Colorful Dials

(25:30) Accutron: From the Space Age to the Digital Age

(26:50) The New Rolex Sky-Dweller On The Oysterflex Bracelet

(37:00) The Seiko Prospex SPB143

(46:15) The Grey NATO Episode 118: On Paper, On Wrist - The Seiko SPB143

(46:30) The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale

(53:00) The Breitling Endurance Pro 

(59:00) The Bulgari Aluminium & Aluminium Chronograph

(1:04:45) The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition

(1:07:15) Peter Blake

Quick Take

While the Frederique Constant Highlife watches you see here feel like a whole new collection, they're actually part of a revamp of the company's Highlife line, which originally came out in 1999, long before yours truly was into watches. I recall distinctly that once I did start paying attention to mechanical timepieces, in about 2004 or so, one of the first marques I came across that seemed to be speaking to the early 20s me was Frederique Constant. I still feel like I'm always looking for value when I look at watches, but back then, as a recent college graduate, my drive to find deals was a bit more urgent, and it's in this context that I first learned of Frederique Constant. 

I came to see FC as a go-to brand for younger watch enthusiasts such as myself who were interested in classic designs paired with value for money. That brings me to what we have to introduce today. At launch, there are three branches of the revamped Highlife collection: Heartbeat models, known for their partially open dials (starting at $1,995); COSC-rated chronometer examples (starting at $1,895); and in-house perpetual calendars (starting at $9,095). While I think each of these branches is well-priced, it's the perpetual calendar – which doesn't use a new movement, mind you, though it is the best-executed Frederique Constant perpetual to date – that most excited me when I first learned about it.

The new Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture draws on the familiar FC-775, which we first saw in 2016 with the Slimline Perpetual. The movement is an automatic perpetual calendar caliber designed and manufactured at the Frederique Constant Geneva manufacture. When Stephen went hands-on with the Slimline Perpetual Calendar back in 2016, he declared it the best budget perpetual calendar available at the time, and I'm inclined to agree with his assessment. Debuting at a price of $8,795, it helped to reshape expectations regarding how a perpetual calendar could be priced, and it received a ton of attention, not just here on HODINKEE, but all around the watch-loving web. As a thoroughly classic dress watch design, the Slimline Perpetual was in line with a design ethos I had come to identify with Frederique Constant. And even if I didn't think the watch was perfect – its 42mm diameter felt a bit big to me, especially considering the relative compactness of the displays, leading to a large amount of negative space – its value prop was very, very tough to argue with. 

With the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, Frederique Constant's perpetual calendar lineup is branching out with a design that appears squarely aimed at sating watch collectors' appetites for Genta-esque sport-luxury watches on integrated bracelets while delivering that good ole FC value prop.

The new Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is available in three examples at its debut, and each comes in a 41mm tonneau-shaped case that calls to mind a class of steel sport watches that originated in the 1970s and continues to hold the attention of watch collectors to this day. One version comes in a two-tone steel-and-rose-gold-plated case with a matching bracelet, another comes in all steel with a lovely blue dial, and the third version pairs a steel case with an alligator strap. In each case, the dial features a globe pattern, and the sub-dials are decorated with a bit of snailing. All versions come with an extra rubber strap that figures to add a pretty sporty dimension to the line, and changing the straps and bracelets can easily be done without tools.

Initial Thoughts

Frederique Constant's selling point seems to be built around value and delivering ownership experiences that might not otherwise be available. I think it used to be much more common for watch collectors to start small, with an entry-level time-only or time-and-date model from a venerable old brand. If the watch bug bit and one's earnings allowed, one might progress up the ladder of prestige, and complications were reserved as the bonus prize for collectors who could afford them. But if there is one thing that I've noticed in my time covering watches, it's been the democratization of mechanical watchmaking, including high complications. Even as many top-tier brands have seen prices grow over the last few decades at a pace faster than inflation, a number of upstart brands oriented toward value have also sprung up, creating comfortable new footholds for collectors.

In providing an option that scratches both the steel-sport-watch-with-integrated-bracelet and the perpetual-calendar itches, Frederique Constant is bound to draw comparisons to mega watches that cost many times more and that will, almost certainly, continue to be much more difficult to obtain at retail than the redesigned Highlife. I don't think I need to name these brands or these models; they're famous and few enough, and there's a good chance you've likely already thought of them by this point anyway. Besides, I don't think the new Highlife is direct competition for them. The stainless steel sport watch with perpetual calendar and integrated bracelet has found a new lane to drive in, and a whole bunch more watch lovers are going to be able to get behind the wheel. I think that's cool.

Comparing these watches with the earlier FC Slimline Perpetual, I have to say that I like the new Highlife version quite a bit more. The proportions of the dials feel more harmonious to me, and I think that has to do both with the reduction in case size to 41mm and with the use of the large applied markers with lume. In some of the supplied pictures, I've noticed that the globe pattern appears subtler than in others, and I have to say, I appreciate the design more in the ones where it's not so easy to pick up that pattern. That has me wondering if it might not have been an extra embellishment that would have been better left out. The new Highlife is one of a growing number of watches that I'd like to get a close in-person look at.

The Basics

Brand: Frederique Constant
Model: Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Reference Number: FC-775V4NH2B: Stainless steel and rose-gold plated with matching bracelet; FC-775N4NH6B; stainless steel on steel bracelet with blue dial; FC-775S4NH6: Stainless steel with silver dial alligator strap

Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 12.65mm
Case Material: Stainless steel or two-tone stainless steel and rose-gold plate
Dial Color: Blue or silver-colored
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Varies by model, but in all cases, an extra rubber strap is provided

The Movement

Caliber: FC-775
Functions: Hours, minutes, day, date, month, phase of the moon, leap-year indicator
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 26

Pricing & Availability

Price: FC-775V4NH2B: $9,495; FC-775N4NH6B: $9,295: FC-775S4NH6: $9,095
Availability: Now

For more, visit Frederique Constant.

Out of the thousands of dives with his ref. 1680 Submariner, it was one in 2012 filming sharks off Guadalupe Island in the Mexican Pacific that would leave a noticeable mark on his watch. At that point, Bret Gilliam had logged nearly 17,000 dives around the world, most of them wearing the watch. Although this particular dive was challenging in the way photographing 16-foot long apex predators of the sea while submerged in an aluminum cage operating a technically complex underwater camera is challenging, he had done it many times before.

But this time, the shark he was filming had taken a special interest in Gilliam. Recounting the experience, Gilliam tells me that while his eyes were trained on the viewfinder of his camera, a massive Great White "suddenly turned and bit the cage right next to me, and then went into a bit of a rage and started thrashing around trying to get at me. I pulled my camera back and dropped back into the cage, but not before the shark violently impacted the cage again and my left arm was knocked sharply into the bars, causing a chip in the Rolex's bezel."

An Icon: The Rolex Submariner

Want to learn more about the Rolex Submariner? Everything you need to know can be found in this exhaustive piece from our own Stephen Pulvirent.

Check out Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner.

And this wasn't any old Submariner. Bret Gilliam's dive watch is a reference 1680 made of 18k solid gold, with a black bezel and a matte black nipple dial. The 1680 was the first Submariner reference to ever be fashioned in solid gold, a metal that's typically reserved for dress watches. A gold Rolex – even a Submariner – is often considered a success symbol rather than a true tool watch, but Gilliam had never paid much attention to rules anyway.  

Gilliam is a living legend in the diving community. He was inducted into the Diving Hall of Fame in 2012 for his decades-long commitment to making diving more safe and accessible to all. Now in his '70s, he's still active, serving as an expert witness in diving and maritime cases. I spent hours on the phone with Gilliam discussing the evolution of the industry from the mid-century era until the present day. There are few pioneers left who have seen SCUBA diving evolve the way he has. He has a wealth of knowledge, and he shares it with the sort of enthusiasm that's almost unexpected from someone who has been in an industry for over half a century. He hasn't been jaded by his unique position.

Bret Gilliam's father was a Navy Officer, so a life aquatic was second nature to him. He started diving in 1959 at age eight, when diving technology was still in its infancy. Gilliam has performed dives in a military capacity, doing deep-diving projects for the Navy in the '70s. He satisfied his ROTC obligations after his collegiate studies by working for the Navy filming fast attack submarines at depths around 525 feet. The project assessed what sort of visible wake vortex was left by these submarines. The dives were carried out using the Navy's "Exceptional Exposure" tables, a set of tables used in extreme circumstances.

After his service, Gilliam went on to dive in a number roles including commercial, scientific research, technical, and filming purposes. He's served as a consultant coordinating underwater cinematography on a number of Hollywood movies including Dreams of Gold and The Island of Dr. Moreau. He's even appeared in a few. His outsized reputation in the dive world comes not only from his accomplishments underwater, but also his entrepreneurial spirit topside. He's founded a number of companies including Technical Diving International, a certification agency, and he's consulted for UWATEC, a company that produced dive computers. 

And for most of his career, he's worn a Rolex Submariner, but it wasn't always a gold one. In 1973, Gilliam founded V.I. Divers Ltd., a diving operation that attracted recreational divers and supported research divers in the Virgin Islands. Part of the business was retailing Scubapro equipment, including watches. In the '70s, Scubapro contracted Swiss manufacturers to produce timepieces for them, lending their branding to the dial and caseback. Gilliam wore a Scubapro Benthos 500 dive watch as he was an authorized dealer from 1971 to 1985. In 1974, he bought a stainless steel Rolex Submariner that he wore daily both underwater and topside. Gilliam said the "watch was bulletproof." And he could have easily worn that watch for the rest of his life.

But in 1970, Skin Diver Magazine ran a piece that stuck with Gilliam. It chronicled a mission that Dick Anderson, an early pioneer of SCUBA designs and a legendary diver in his own right, took on. Anderson supplied his own gold to Rolex and requested they produce a watch from it. A ludicrous idea, but eventually Rolex capitulated and made Anderson the watch he wanted: a solid-gold Rolex. When René Jeanneret, sales director of Rolex at the time, presented Anderson with the watch, he told him, "Just don't be afraid to take it diving."

One day in 1980, Gilliam got a phone call from Rolex with an offer he couldn't refuse. "I was contracted to provide filming and on-camera commentary for a nationally televised documentary special on humpback whales. Rolex got in touch with me and asked if I would wear a gold Rolex Submariner in the film," Gilliam recounts. And the best part? Rolex would offer him a very steep discount on the watch. He purchased it from Little Switzerland, a Rolex AD four blocks from his V.I. Divers headquarters in St. Croix. The purchase price was $6,500, which Gilliam says was more than he paid for the first boat he bought for his diving business. 

He wore the watch just like he wore his stainless steel Submariner before that, and that is to say, he wasn't at all afraid to get it wet and knock it around. Forget about the foofoo imagery that typically comes with a gold watch. "It’s been through extreme deep dives below 800 feet, saturation diving, as my primary timepiece for celestial navigation as a maritime officer, treatments in recompression chambers, under ice in both the Arctic and Antarctica, deep diving in submersibles to over 12,000-foot depths … just about everything," Gilliam says.

The watch was on his wrist during an event that would land Gilliam in the Guinness Book of World Records. Gilliam completed a series of record-breaking dives – in '90 and '93 – for the deepest dive breathing compressed air.

On the '93 dive, he reached 490 ft. at "Mary's Place" in Roatán, a Caribbean island, while remaining totally conscious, with the Rolex on his wrist. When dive computers were still a relatively new tool, he would wear a diving computer on one wrist and the Rolex on the other. 

Stories tend to increase in value more than any other asset, but Gilliam's Sub hasn't performed poorly at all. He reports that he gets "constant offers from divers who want to buy it simply because it was mine, and I used it for over 40 years so far. The last offer I got was for $45,000 in January." 

For reference, a brand new solid gold Submariner ref. 126618LN currently retails for $36,950. The idea of wearing a solid-gold sub to carry out challenging and often precarious tasks underwater certainly defies traditional watch enthusiast thinking, but like René Jeanneret said to Dick Anderson in 1970, one should not be afraid to take it diving. Gilliam took that quite literally, and it turns out Jeanneret wasn't bluffing.

"The watch has never failed me," he says.

Gilliam has become quite successful through his business ventures, and given that the watch has been by his side through almost his entire diving career, it's worth more on an emotional level than any amount of money a collector can offer. When someone asks him about it, the answer is simple. He says, "I’m keeping it."

"I have no family or kids, but my intent is to leave it to a dear friend that's a diver. He’s younger and will probably outlive me… at least, that's his plan," he says. 

Purnell was originally founded in 2006; the founder, Jonathan Purnell, says that the inspiration for the company was his grandfather Cecil, a British soldier who was wounded in World War I and who recovered from his injuries in Besançon, France, where he studied watchmaking. As part of his education, Cecil Purnell learned about and became fascinated by the tourbillon and, in the fullness of time, passed his interest on to his grandson. Jonathan Purnell worked in the watch industry for over forty years, for firms which included Harry Winston and Vacheron Constantin, and when he founded Purnell, he decided that the company would devote itself exclusively to making tourbillon watches. The company, which debuted its first watch in 2009, has stayed true to the original inspiration and has, in recent years, devoted itself to making both very opulent and very complicated timepieces. One of Purnell's most dramatic watches is the Escape I Spherion. The Escape I was introduced in 2017; it is a very high speed, triple-axis tourbillon whose cages rotate, from the outer to the inner, in 30, 60, and 8 seconds. In 2019, Purnell introduced the Escape II, which has two triple-axis Spherion tourbillon systems linked by a differential, and which in motion, is one of the most kinetically dramatic wristwatches I've ever seen.

The tourbillon system is the brainchild of watchmaker Eric Coudray. Coudray's name to this day is not especially well-known despite the fact that his work is. Most recently, he collaborated with MB&F, and Kari Voutilainen, on the MB&F Thunderdome, which, you might recall, is also a triple-axis high-speed tourbillon (with cages turning once every 20, 12, and 8 seconds, from outermost to innermost), and during his time at Jaeger-LeCoultre, he developed the first Gyrotourbillon. Though he is, to this day, not as famous among enthusiasts as he might be (this is probably partly due to the fact that both in price and in engineering, his work skews very much towards the high end), he is a major force in the industry, and his company – TEC Ebauches, in Vallorbe – is a highly regarded source of complicated movements for such clients as Louis Moinet, Manufacture Royale, MB&F, and, of course, Purnell.

Coudray has said of his own work that, "Most of the things I create are more than just watches ... It's not just for the performance and all of that. It's an exercise in style." Certainly, if you are easily moved by mechanical ingenuity, your first reaction to the Escape II is apt to be visceral and emotional, rather than intellectual. I'm cheating a little bit with this video inasmuch as it's a time-lapse video, but it certainly gets across the dynamism of the movement.

The most recent versions of the Escape II are being made with either a forged carbon case (of which there are three versions, distinguished from each other by different colorways) and a fourth version, in black DLC grade 5 titanium which is named, logically enough, the All Black.

It will surprise no one to discover that these are quite large watches, although I don't think you can reasonably expect a double, triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch to be anything other than pretty darned big – which these are, at 48mm x 19mm. The case has been designed so as to make the action of the two triple-axis cages as visible as possible, and this includes a cut-out at the bottom edge of the case with a sapphire window in it (the lateral window is actually part of the one-piece crystal, rather than a separate window) so that you can see the tourbillons even when you are not actually looking directly at the watch.

There are a number of windows cut into the case flank as well, and overall, the visual effect is pretty mesmerizing – even in still images, the combination of mechanical complexity and stark contrast between the finishes of various components is very striking. 

The mechanical solution to the problem of running a triple-axis tourbillon at such a high speed is based, rather remarkably, on an escapement which was originally invented by the American watchmaker, Albert Potter, in the mid-1800s. Potter was born in Albany, New York, in 1836 and moved to Geneva in 1875, and he is responsible for a number of chronometer-grade pocket watches, with very recognizable bridge layouts and, often, very mechanically ingenious designs as well. His escapement uses a fixed escape wheel, with inward-facing teeth, against which the escape wheel is driven by the going train. The first use of this arrangement in a high-speed tourbillon, of which I am aware, is a five-second tourbillon by Franck Muller (this, however, is a single-axis tourbillon).

Normally, a tourbillon cage carries the escape wheel, lever, and balance, and the pinion of the escape wheel engages with the teeth of a fixed (non-turning) fourth wheel. The cage is propelled by the going train, and as it turns, the escape wheel rotates against the teeth of the fixed fourth wheel and in turn, passes energy on to the lever and the balance.

For a very high speed tourbillon, however, this arrangement is a challenging one thanks to the amount of inertia involved, and for the Spherion system, an alternative arrangement is used, in which the escape wheel is fixed – this is the Potter escapement. The escape wheel teeth face inward, and as the innermost cage rotates, the pallets of the lever engage with the escape wheel teeth. The balance locks and unlocks the lever in the usual manner, and energy is thus transmitted to the balance. 

The single biggest challenge with any tourbillon is that the mechanism is an energy parasite. Normally, in a conventional movement, the fourth wheel drives the escape wheel directly, which then passes energy to the lever and balance. There are energy losses all along the going train due to friction (which can be reduced but never completely eliminated) and also at the escapement itself, thanks to the sliding friction at the lever pallets and to the geometry of the lever. Ensuring that enough energy gets to the balance to maintain optimum amplitude through the entire power reserve of the watch was, and still is, one of the primary challenges in precision watchmaking. 

In the tourbillon, the problem is made even more severe owing to the fact that the going train must drive not just the escape wheel, but also the lever and balance, and cope with the inertia of the cage itself; the entire arrangement has to be started from a stationary position every time the lever unlocks the escape wheel. For this reason, even a conventional tourbillon historically had to be constructed to a very high degree of precision, and the cage was always made as light as possible, in order to reduce the load on the going train.

As you can imagine, the problem goes from bad to worse in a multi-axis tourbillon, especially if you want to run it at high speed. For this reason, titanium is a commonly used (if you can say "common" about multi-axis tourbillons) material for the cage, but you must still keep the structure gossamer thin. In the Spherion system, the clearances between the cages are minute – 0.1 to 0.2mm – and the whole kit and kaboodle weighs only 0.79562 grams which, Purnell says with pardonable pride, is "less than the weight of a standard paper clip." There are a total of eight Incabloc anti-shock systems per Spherion – two each for each of the three cages, plus two more for the balance itself.

Given the complexity of the system, the size of the watch starts to seem, not Brobdignagian, but merely reasonable. As Coudray has said, the idea is to not just produce something which is clever mechanically, but to use ingenuity and mechanics in the service of making something with as much visual razzle-dazzle as possible.

And razzle-dazzle, the Escape II has, and then some. This sort of watchmaking is highly specific in all sorts of ways, of course – the watches start at $470,000 for the forged carbon models and $460,000 for the model in black DLC. If you're of my turn of mind, that sort of pricing is liberating because, as I am no more likely to buy a half-million-dollar triple-axis double tourbillon than I am to become airborne by flapping my arms, I am free to simply enjoy these watches as an abstraction. There is considerable pleasure to be had in following this sort of watchmaking, even if you're never going to be a client for it (or, if you are a potential client, it is not your particular brand of vodka), and a lot of the fun for me, in being a watch enthusiast, is in seeing the work of folks like Eric Coudray evolve over the years – nothing wrong with a little (or a lot) of wow factor every once in a while. The only downside, really, is that I always itch to see stuff like this in person, and that isn't happening these days. But it's still more than cool to know that unapologetic maximalist watchmaking, combined with real technical brilliance, is alive and well.

All lifestyle images, and video, Alex Teuscher for Purnell.

The Purnell Escape II Full Black and Forged Carbon models: cases, either forged carbon or grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating; both are 48mm x 19mm and water resistance is 30 meters. Movement, caliber CP03, designed by Eric Coudray, triple-axis double tourbillon "Spherion" with cages rotating at 30, 16, and 8 seconds; Potter-type escapement with fixed escape wheel. Frequency, 21,600 vph, running in 67 jewels with 32-hour power reserve; power-reserve indication using suspended mobile cone. Six mainsprings in 4 barrels running in parallel. Adjust to 12 positions (I assume six per Spherion). Total movement weight, 15.7 grams. Limited edition of 20 pieces per reference. Prices, $470,000 in forged carbon and $460,000 in black DLC titanium. For more, visit Purnellwatches.com.

The Purnell Escape II Full Black and Forged Carbon models are being shown at the Watches & Wonders Shanghai exhibition from Sept. 9  to 13. 

Quick Take

Today, German horological powerhouse A. Lange & Söhne is announcing the release of a trio of watches in a collection celebrating brand founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange. Included in that collection – and the focus of this introduction – are the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold and the 1815 Thin Honeygold. That's right: Both watches are cased in the brand's unique gold alloy generally reserved for special occasions and limited editions (or, in this case, both). One is a perpetual calendar chronograph with a rattrapante function, and the other a classic time-only – sans seconds hand – dress watch. These pieces, and the collection at large, belong to the 1815 family, which is a reference to F.A. Lange's birth year. The watches were unveiled at the Watches & Wonders exhibition in Shanghai that runs from Sept. 9 to 13. 

Initial Thoughts

Honeygold is a proprietary material specially created by A. Lange & Söhne in-house. It was first used in 2010 for the three watches of the "165 Years – Homage to F. A. Lange" anniversary edition (one of which can be seen in Kevin Rose's collection in his episode of Talking Watches). In all, only eight limited editions cased in this alloy have ever been launched. For this launch, both of these watches are fitted in the special 18k gold cases. Interestingly, the specific alloy compound used to create this special gold is not known; what is known is that the metal is harder and more scratch-resistant than other gold alloys with a fineness of 18k.  

1815 Thin Honeygold

The 1815 Thin Honeygold celebrates the 175th anniversary of German (specifically Saxon) precision watchmaking. It is about as classic and refined a dress watch as they come. It ticks that one overarching defining characteristic of being a time-only watch, without that pesky seconds hand. What's more, the watch is manually wound. From a design perspective, it takes cues from classic pocket watches. At 38mm in diameter, it sits in the absolute sweet spot of sizing overall, especially as a modern dress piece. Further bolstering its austere adherence to the formal way of doing things, the watch is a razor-thin 6.3mm. I dare you to find a shirt cuff that doesn't fit under. The dial is done in a white, two-part enamel design with dark-grey printed Arabic numerals and a  railway-track minute scale. Inside the watch beats the L093.1 manufacture caliber with the freely oscillating Lange balance spring working in combination with a classic screw balance for enhanced accuracy. 

Of course if you're a Lange fan, the first thing you'll think of is the Saxonia Thin 37mm. Both watches use different versions of the same movement, which is the Lange caliber L093.1. In the Saxonia Thin, however, the movement is decorated with Glashütte stripes, while in the 1815 it has a grained finish similar to the gilt finish found on vintage Lange pocket watches. The two watches also have different dials – the most notable difference is the use of stick markers in the Saxonia Thin, versus Arabics in the 1815 Thin Honeygold.

Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold

The Tourbograph Perpetual was first released in 2017, but this is the first time it is being released in the Honeygold alloy. It isn't just the case which is made of Honeygold, either. The dial is also made of the proprietary material. This dial is actually quite complex, requiring five separate pieces just to make it. Everything from the main dial surface, to the subdial registers, to the flange is made of individual segments that are then brought together to create the dial at large. Each dial requires two people to complete it. 

The watch houses five complications: a fusée-and-chain transmission with a tourbillon, a chronograph, a rattrapante function, and a perpetual calendar. Housing all of those complications requires a case size and height that is a fair deal larger and thicker than its 1815 Thin counterpart (notice the word thin is nowhere to be seen, nor should it be in regards to the Tourbograph Perpetual). The watch comes in at 43mm in diameter with a case height of 16.6mm. Similar to the 1815 Thin, this watch employs the use of Arabic numerals on the dial with an outer railway-track scale. 

One of the most interesting aspects of this piece is the chronograph's rattrapante functionality, controlled by two column wheels. Essentially, this is illustrated by a sweep hand that runs in tandem with the chronograph hand. It can be stopped independently by engaging the pusher at 10 o'clock. Once the pusher is activated again, it catches up instantaneously with the chronograph hand, and the two hands continue to run synchronously. This allows for an unlimited number of lap times to be taken within the maximum stop time of 30 minutes. Luckily, there is an exhibition caseback through which this entire process can be viewed. 

Concluding Thoughts

It is one thing to show off, and another thing entirely to show what you are capable of. With these two limited edition releases, A. Lange & Söhne is firmly in the latter camp. On one hand, we have a reserved and fully capable two-hand dress watch, and on the other, we have high watchmaking on full display. The 1815 Thin Honeygold is limited to 175 pieces – a nod to the anniversary – and the Tourbograph Perpetual is limited to 50 pieces.

The Basics

Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
Model: Tourbograph Perpetual and 1815 Thin
Reference Number: 706.050FE (Tourbograph Perpetual), 239.050 (1815 Thin)

Diameter: 43mm (Tourbograph Perpetual), 38mm (1815 Thin)
Thickness: 16.6mm(Tourbograph Perpetual), 6.3mm (1815 Thin)
Case Material: 18k Honeygold
Dial Color: 18k Honeygold, black-rhodiumed, with relief-engraved numerals and scales (Tourbograph Perpetual); copper, white enameled (1815 Thin)
Indexes: Arabic numerals
Lume: No
Strap/Bracelet: Leather Strap

The Movement

Caliber: L133.1 (Tourbograph Perpetual), L093.1 (1815 Thin)
Functions: Time display in hours and minutes; tourbillon; chronograph with rattrapante function; perpetual calendar with date, day, month, leap year; moon-phase display (Tourbograph Perpetual). Hours and minutes (1815 Thin)
Diameter: 32mm (Tourbograph Perpetual), 28mm (1815 Thin)
Thickness: 10.9mm (Tourbograph Perpetual), 2.9mm (1815 Thin)
Power Reserve: 36 hours (Tourbograph Perpetual), 72 hours (1815 Thin)
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Jewels: 52 (Tourbograph Perpetual), 21 (1815 Thin)
Chronometer Certified: No

Pricing & Availability

Price: $34,400 (1815 Thin), Price Upon Request for the Tourbograph Perpetual
Availability: Immediately
Limited Edition: Yes, 50 pieces (Tourbograph Perpetual) and 175 pieces (1815 Thin)

For more, click here.

It is a bit surprising at first to hear that this is the first rattrapante-only complicated watch from Lange – your brain seizes up a little bit as you think, "Now surely that can't be the case." But it is. Now, the complication is far from unknown to Lange, and to Lange connoisseurs and enthusiasts, of course. We have the Double Split, with split seconds and minutes and which is, it is worth mentioning, also a flyback chronograph (both seconds and minutes), and there is also the Triple Split, which is the only split-seconds chronograph ever made which splits the seconds, minutes, and hours. 

Then we get into really rarefied territory with the Tourbograph Pour Le Mérite and the Grand Complication, which includes a rattrapante chronograph with diablotine, or lightning seconds (my personal favorite candidate for a special GPHG award for least frequently made complication). However, it is indeed the case that there has never been a rattrapante-only Lange wristwatch, until now – Lange has just introduced the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold, in celebration of 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte (counting from the establishment, by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, of his first workshop in 1845). It is part of a three-watch launch at Watches & Wonders Shanghai. The watch case (41.2mm x 12.6mm) is in Lange's Honeygold, which is a proprietary gold alloy that Lange says is "considerably harder than platinum" (and don't expect to find out what's in the alloy any time soon – it is at Lange a more closely guarded secret than what's in the Colonel's blend of 11 secret herbs and spices).

A rattrapante chronograph is also known as a "split-seconds" chronograph; the first modern version of the complication, with a heart-piece for the split mechanism, was created by Joseph-Thaddeus Winnerl, in 1838. It is, traditionally, considered one of the three classic high complications, along with the perpetual calendar and the minute repeater, and classically, any watch that wanted to rejoice in the title of "Grand Complication" had to incorporate all three. The rattrapante chronograph mechanism is part of this trilogy, thanks to the extremely delicate nature of the complication, and the great care that must be taken in its manufacture, assembly, and adjustment in order for it to work properly.

As with the mechanical watch itself, understanding how the rattrapante chronograph works is a bit taxing at first because it is not really like any other mechanical device with which we regularly interact. 

The diagram below, from Donald de Carle's Complicated Watches And Their Repair, is a useful one to mull over if you're curious about how the mechanism works. At the bottom of the diagram is the split-seconds wheel, which is located in the center of the movement. The split-seconds wheel is mounted on a hollow pipe that runs through the movement to the dial side; the split-seconds hand is friction fit onto the pipe. In the center of the pipe is the solid pivot for the center chronograph seconds hand. The center chronograph seconds wheel, which carries the pivot and the hand, sits above the split-seconds wheel; mounted on it is the heart-shaped cam G. When the chronograph's running and the two hands are not split, the ruby roller I, under the pressure of the spring J, sits in the notch at the lowest point of the heart piece. This mechanically couples the split-seconds wheel to the chronograph seconds wheel, and causes both the split-seconds hand and chronograph seconds hand to rotate together. 

Operating the split-seconds pusher causes the column wheel to rotate, allowing the pincers, K, to fall onto the split-seconds wheel under the pressure of their springs, F. This freezes the split-seconds hand. The chronograph seconds hand, its wheel, and the heart piece continue to rotate and, as they do, the ruby roller rides up and down the outer edge of the heart piece. When the pincers are opened (by pushing the split-seconds pusher, which rotates the column wheel another increment) the ruby roller, under the pressure of spring J, rotates instantly to the low point of the heart piece, and the split-seconds hand "catches up" to the main chronograph seconds hand.

The action of the mechanism is very light, and the chronograph seconds hand and split-seconds hand are usually extremely thin in order to reduce inertial loads on the mechanism, especially when the two hands return to a coinciding position. Precisely aligning the two hands is a taxing and time-consuming adjustment, as they must be lined up so that when the hands are running together, they appear to be a single hand rather than one superimposed on another. Usually, a classic split-seconds chronograph will have two column wheels. One is for start, stop, and reset of the chronograph works, and the other specifically is to control the split mechanism.

The new rattrapante caliber is the L101.2, and it is, in many respects, an absolutely classic example of the form. The center of attention will be the rattrapante mechanism itself, which is set up in the traditional fashion. The balance cock for the in-house screw-type balance is just visible in the above image at about 3:00, and the rattrapante pincers and split-seconds wheel are visible at the center of the movement, along with the column wheel which controls them. At about 9:00 in the image is the primary column wheel for start, stop, and reset of the chronograph.

The movement decoration is, as you would expect from Lange, exceedingly detailed and elaborate. Steel components are straight-grained or mirror polished, with mirror-finished bevels; and the German silver plates and bridges are decorated in a fine-grained finish which is similar to the fire-gilt finish used in Lange pocket watches of the 19th and 20th centuries. The chronograph bridge and balance cock are engraved as usual, but this time, the engravings themselves have been treated with black rhodium, for better visual contrast (I'm on the fence a bit about whether or not I wouldn't prefer them left untreated – the grain of the exposed metal has a wonderful subtle beauty I feel I might miss here, but I think I'll have to wait to see the watch in person, whenever that may be). 

For the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold, Lange has opted for an unusual configuration for the sub-dials, with the running seconds at 6:00 and the 30-second totalizer at 12:00. Only one other Lange watch has used this configuration – that's the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. The Tourbograph Perpetual has the 30-second totalizer at 12:00 and the running seconds is via the tourbillon at 6:00, so that's obviously a different animal. And both the Double and Triple Split have their running seconds and minutes totalizers in the lower position on the dial on which they are found in the Datograph Up/Down (in the case of the Double Split, the position in which you find the date in the Up/Down is taken up by a power reserve indicator, and in the Triple Split, by the split-hours totalizer). The arrangement does, I think, give the watch very much a pocket watch feel – there is something about that configuration that is catnip to anyone who (like me) cut their teeth horologically on pocket watches.

As Lange already had an existing rattrapante mechanism in the Tourbograph and the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual, I thought it might be interesting to compare the Tourbograph rattrapante mechanism with the 1815 Rattrapante (the rattrapante mechanism in the 1815 Rattrapante and the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual are identical). While there are some obvious general similarities, there are also major differences. The Tourbograph, obviously, has to leave room for the tourbillon at 6:00 on the dial, and for the moon-phase and perpetual calendar date indication at 12:00, so in that movement (caliber L133.1), the 30-minute totalizer is at 9:00. In the images above, you can see the large, gold-colored wheel for the 30-minute totalizer at 3:00 (in the image) in the Tourbograph caliber L133.1, and at 12:00 in the Rattrapante caliber L101.2. The rattrapante clamps, wheel, column wheel, and general arrangement of the lateral clutch is the same in both movements.

I haven't had a new favorite watch in a long time, but this is, by golly, a contender. Now we can always quibble, and especially with Lange, arguing over details is half  – maybe more than half – of the fun. However, there is little, at least from where I'm sitting, to dislike in the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold. The idea of a rattrapante-only chronograph from Lange is immensely compelling; I love that they changed it up a bit from the standard equilateral triangle composition that characterizes their other chronographs. The only thing that really might give anyone pause is that if we want to be really traditionalist about it, a monopusher rattrapante would have been nice, but I think the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold has more than enough of its own Germanic charm that I don't really miss the Genevan suavity of a monopusher. It's another watch on the increasingly long list of things I'm going to bend over backwards to see in the metal ... when I can.

The Lange 1815 Rattrapante Chronograph Honeygold: case, 41.20mm x 12.60mm in Lange Honeygold alloy; sapphire front and back. Dial, black, solid silver. Movement, Lange caliber L101.2, rattrapante chronograph with 30-second totalizer, 32.60mm x 7.40mm, with 58-hour power reserve, running at 21,600 vph in 36 jewels. Plates and bridges in frosted/grained finish German silver, with hand-engraved, rhodium-filled chronograph bridge and balance cock. Power reserve, 58 hours. Limited edition of 100 pieces worldwide, released with the 1815 Thin Honeygold and the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold in celebration of 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte. Price, $134,000. For more, visit ALange-Soehne.com.

Quick Take

Do you remember April? It was a few months ago, and while I recall neither its position nor its progression as a measurement of time, I do recall writing about how Vacheron Constantin announced that it would be offering its Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with a blue dial and a matching bracelet in 19k pink gold. As time is a flat circle, we meet again, as Vacheron Constantin has just announced a blue and gold version of its Overseas Self-Winding as part of the news cycle surrounding Watches & Wonders Shanghai.

Initial Thoughts

When the full gold and blue treatment was added to the Overseas QP, I said, "about damn time," and I can't say I feel any different about the time and date version of the same watch, aka the Overseas Self-Winding. With a 41mm-wide pink-gold case, this new addition to the Overseas line rocks a gorgeous blue dial, and you can now complete the quick-change strap triple-play as the rubber and the alligator will have to compete with a lovely pink-gold bracelet. 

Like I said when the same treatment was applied to the Overseas Perpetual Calendar, while this new model doesn't bring anything actually new to the table, it does expand upon a popular line with the addition of a mount that a lot of customers must have been asking for (especially for a watch characterized by its inclusion of several straps and a tool-free way of changing said straps). Functionality remains entirely unchanged, with the Overseas Self-Winding sitting pretty at just 11mm thick with 150 meters of water resistance, Vacheron's 5100 automatic movement, and a sapphire display caseback. 

Hitting boutiques with a price tag of $46,200, this all-gold Overseas Self-Winding represents a considerable jump up from a steel version ($19,600), but may offer a strong middle ground for those wanting a more precious experience without having to pony up some $88,500 for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar. Regardless of complication (How long will we have to wait to see this bracelet added to the pink-gold version of the Overseas Dual Time?), it's simply hard to beat the blue/gold effect, and this new model seems a strong addition to the Overseas lineup. 

The Basics

Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas Self-Winding
Reference Number: 4500V/110R-B705

Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 11mm
Case Material: 18k 5N pink gold
Dial Color: Blue lacquered satin finish
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Hands and markers
Water Resistance: 150 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Comes with a matching 18k pink-gold full bracelet, blue alligator leather strap, and a blue rubber strap; all featuring tool-less quick change

The Movement

Caliber: Vacheron Constantin 5100
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Diameter: 30.6mm
Thickness: 4.7mm
Power Reserve: ~60 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 37
Additional Details: Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece 

Pricing & Availability

Price: $46,200

For more, click here.

Quick Take

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph has earned a strong following among IWC's offerings since its debut almost 30 years ago – but now, for the first time ever, it comes on a bracelet. The Portugieser Chronograph, which is now powered by IWC's in-house caliber 69355, is often lauded for its versatility, as Danny observed during his time with the watch. The inclusion of a stainless steel bracelet featuring polished and satin surfaces means that it becomes even more versatile and works in circumstances that a leather strap simply wouldn't. IWC introduced the new bracelet version of the watch at the Watches & Wonders exhibition in Shanghai running through Sept. 13. In a press release, Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, notes that, "Stainless steel is robust and practical for everyday use, but also corrosion-resistant and unaffected by moisture, sweat and seawater splashes."

 And, of course, a strap can always be swapped in for old times' sake. 

Initial Thoughts

IWC adding a bracelet to the Portugieser Chronograph raises the question: Why didn't they do this sooner? It's the perfect platform. It's both handsomely refined and sporty at once. The watch was recently treated to upgraded internals in the form of the classic column-wheel 69355 caliber, so a bracelet to match seems like the final step in the evolution of the model which is now inching towards three decades of existence. Good things take time, and there's certainly something to be said about the small changes made over the lifespan of the model that make it what it is today – bracelet and all. 

Any bracelet would give the watch a more sporty personality, but the bracelet that IWC has chosen for the Portugieser Chronograph lends a particularly rugged aesthetic to the watch, which was originally designed for navigation tasks. It's always been a capable wristwatch with the horological chops to back it up, but now, with a bracelet, it finally looks the part in a way that it never has before. 

The Basics

Brand: IWC
Model: Portugieser Chronograph With Stainless Steel Bracelet
Reference Number: IW371617

Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 13.1mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Dial Color: Silver-plated
Indexes: Printed Arabic numerals
Lume: Absent
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet

The Movement

Caliber: IWC-manufactured 69355
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, stopwatch
Diameter: 30mm
Power Reserve: 46 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800vph
Jewels: 27
 

Pricing & Availability

Price: $8,900
Availability: IWC Authorized Dealers 

For more, click here.

Roberto Clemente was the first Latin American and Caribbean player to be enshrined in the National Baseball Hall of Fame. He won two World Series titles playing for the Pittsburgh Pirates over his 18-year career, accumulating an MVP trophy, 15 All-Star selections, and exactly 3,000 hits in the process. Clemente was more than an excellent ballplayer on the diamond, he was also a world-class humanitarian off it, and since 1971, Major League Baseball has annually presented the Roberto Clemente Award to the individual baseball player who has most effectively used their platform to engage with and assist their community. Today, September 9, is considered Roberto Clemente Day across all of baseball, and Oris has announced a partnership with the Roberto Clemente Foundation to help commemorate his legacy. Limited to 3,000 pieces – one watch for each of Clemente's hits as a Major League ballplayer – the new Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Roberto Clemente is a handsome tribute to one of baseball's most influential ambassadors.

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Roberto Clemente Limited Edition has a charming, vintage-inspired design that stands out with its unique black, white, and gold color scheme that references the uniforms worn by the Pittsburgh Pirates during Clemente's tenure with the team, from 1955 to 1972. 

Made of steel, the watch builds on the successful Big Crown Pointer Date formula that Oris has iterated on since the watch first became a mainstay in the brand's catalog in the late 1930s. There's an oversize, screw-down crown that is easy to grip, a domed crystal, and a coin-edge bezel that complements the fluting of the crown. A black and gold railroad-style minute track contrasts nicely with the white dial and is surrounded by golden Arabic hour numerals on the inside and date markers on its periphery. Traditional cathedral hands indicate the hour and minute, while a triangular-tipped hand rotates the dial once per month, marking each passing day. All of the date numerals are executed in black, save for the 21 marker, which is in gold as a tribute to Clemente's uniform number.

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Roberto Clemente Limited Edition has a highly wearable case profile with a 40mm diameter and downturned lugs. The closed caseback features a relief engraving of Clemente at-bat and is individually numbered out of the production run of 3,000 pieces. Oris is gifting each winner of the Roberto Clemente Award, from 1971 to today, with the Big Crown Pointer Date Roberto Clemente Limited Edition that matches their winning year; for example, the watch numbered 2,020 will be awarded to this year's winner.

Inside the Big Crown Pointer Date Roberto Clemente Limited Edition is the workhorse Oris caliber 754, a rebadged Sellita SW 200-1 that offers up 38 hours of power reserve and automatic winding. Each watch is delivered on a light brown leather strap with double stitching inspired by the seams of a baseball glove and comes with a special commemorative box with an additional brown-and-tan striped NATO strap and a spring bar tool. Oris is also including, with each order, a replica "vintage" baseball with Clemente's signature and the logo of the Roberto Clemente Foundation. 

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Roberto Clemente is priced at $1,950, and it's available right now in the HODINKEE Shop. 

Quick Take

The larger-than-life reputation of Roberto Clemente as a Hall of Fame baseball player and humanitarian was forged long before his tragic death in a plane crash off the coast of Puerto Rico on December 31, 1972. Today, Oris is paying respect to Clemente and his incredible legacy through the release of a 3,000-piece limited edition on the occasion of Major League Baseball's annual celebration of Roberto Clemente Day. 

Roberto Clemente was one of the greatest baseball players of all time, defying the odds and rising through the ranks in the Puerto Rican professional league and eventually signing with the Pittsburgh Pirates, where, despite the political and social challenges facing him, he would become one of the greatest players in the history of baseball. Dick Groat, a teammate on the Pirates, said of him, "Clemente was the greatest God-given talent I ever saw on a baseball diamond."

The watch is based on the Big Crown Pointer Date and pays tribute to Clemente's legacy through a number of visual cues, like the black and gold numerals inspired by Clemente's uniform. Additionally, there's a clever – and subtle – gold "21" date marker, while the rest are black. Twenty-one was Clemente's number, which the Pittsburgh Pirates have since retired. A side profile of Clemente at-bat adorns the caseback.

Initial Thoughts

Oris is an independent manufacturer that operates under the mantra "Change for the Better." The firm uses watches as a way to create value for organizations aimed at changing the world in one way or another. Readers might be familiar with the company's watch meant to revive the reefs of the Florida Keys or one that takes on the problems created by the 700 tons of plastic that find their way into the oceans every hour. 

With the Roberto Clemente Limited Edition, Oris has its sights set on furthering the interests of the Roberto Clemente Foundation, which include disaster relief and introducing baseball to at-risk youth. 

Roberto Clemente won two World Series with the Pirates, he won the Rawlings Gold Glove Award 12 times, and he had 3,000 hits. His achievements surely would have continued had it not been for his tragic accident. A shining star on the field, his efforts off the field were equally impressive. He arrived from Puerto Rico to the Major Leagues and became a symbol of the working class. His thick accent and Puerto Rican heritage often made him the subject of ridicule from reporters, who quoted him with phonetic spellings. In '69, Clemente was quoted as saying, "The farther away you writers stay, the better I like it. You know why? Because you’re trying to create a bad image of me… You do it because I’m black and Puerto Rican, but I’m proud to be Puerto Rican."

Clemente embraced his Latin heritage through actions. On December 23, 1972, a 6.3 magnitude earthquake hit Nicaragua and left the nation in a state of peril. It didn't have the right resource distribution channels to help the recovery efforts. Clemente had visited the very area impacted just three weeks before. The earthquake left roughly 11,000 people dead and 300,000 more without a home. Clemente sent aid, but due to corrupt local officials, the aid wasn't distributed properly. 

So what did Clemente do on learning his shipments weren't making it to the right people?

He took on the problem himself. 

At the height of his baseball career, he boarded a plane with the relief packages to ensure that they reached the people that needed them most. It was a Douglas DC-7 cargo plane that was overloaded by 4,200 pounds and had a history of mechanical failures. Shortly after take-off, the plane plunged into the Atlantic off Puerto Rico. It took days for rescue workers to recover the wreck. Only the body of the pilot was found. Clemente's body was never recovered. 

On March 20, 1973, just over a year after the accident, he was inducted into the Baseball Hall of Fame. The waiting period to be inducted is typically much longer, but given the circumstances, he was voted in posthumously.

Following Clemente's death, the Commissioner's Award, a tradition started in 1971, was renamed the Roberto Clemente Award. The award is given every year to a baseball player that "best exemplifies the game of baseball, sportsmanship, community involvement and the individual's contribution to his team." The first award was given to Willie Mays, and in 2014, it was given to two players: Paul Konerko and Jimmy Rollins. Most recently, it was issued to Carlos Carrasco.

For the Roberto Clemente Limited Edition watch, Oris has blocked off serial numbers 1971-2020 and will issue one watch to each living player who has received the award, corresponding to the year they received it. If the player is no longer alive, the watch will be given to the family. Today, the nominees of this year's award will be officially recognized, and the winner will be announced at the World Series, when Oris will issue serial number 2020 to them. The nominees can be found here. 

The watch is a joint project between the Roberto Clemente Foundation, run by Clemente's son, Luis Roberto Clemente Zabala, and Oris. A portion of the profits generated from the sale of the watch will be used by the foundation, which is currently fundraising for a new Sports City, a place for at-risk youth to play baseball, as part of a vision that Roberto Clemente had in 1971. 

Roberto Clemente famously said, "Any time you have an opportunity to make a difference in this world and you don’t, then you are wasting your time on Earth." With the release of this watch, Oris is practicing what Clemente preached. 

The Basics

Brand: Oris
Model: Roberto Clemente Limited Edition
Reference Number: 754 7741 4081

Diameter: 40mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Exclusive motif designed after Clemente's jersey using off-white, black, and gilt
Indexes: Super-LumiNova
Lume: Yes, indices printed with Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Light brown leather strap with double stitching inspired by a baseball glove, stainless steel buckle

The Movement

Caliber: Oris 754 (Sellita SW 200-1 base)
Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, pointer date
Diameter: 25.6mm
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 26

Pricing & Availability

Price: $1,950
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Limited to 3,000 pieces

Editor's note: Watch companies sometimes announce new products to the HODINKEE editorial team and the HODINKEE Shop at the same time. Please note that the editorial team and the Shop team produce their content independently of each other.

It's the middle of the week, which means more vintage watches in the HODINKEE Shop! We're coming off a long, three-day holiday weekend in New York, and we think today's selection will be the perfect midweek pick-me-up to help you power through to the weekend. This week's lineup is a bit more diverse than usual, with seven total watches, including a Heuer Regatta, a Vacheron Constantin 222, and even a pocket watch for good measure. 

1981 Vacheron Constantin 222 Ref. 44018-411 'Jumbo' In Two Tone With Full Set

It was a common misconception among watch enthusiasts for many years that the Vacheron Constantin 222 was designed by Gérald Genta, mainly because it shared a similar aesthetic and came out around the same time as his most famous designs, which include the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The Vacheron Constantin 222, however, was actually created by Jörg Hysek, a young designer who later developed the Breguet Marine and TAG Heuer Kirium. The 222, with its sleek combination of elegance and sportiness, is unquestionably Hysek's masterpiece. 

When the 222 was first released, it was not as popular as Vacheron had hoped it would be, which is coincidentally a fact that it shares with both the Royal Oak and Nautilus. The watch community eventually changed its mind on the luxury sport watch category, and today, the genre is one of the most popular in all of watchmaking. Vacheron originally released the 222 in stainless steel, gold, and in a two-tone combination of steel and gold like the example we have today. It comes complete as a full set, with its original box, papers, hangtag, and even the caseback sticker! Vintage 222s offer extraordinary value, especially when compared to Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models of the same era, and this two-tone 222 is no exception.

1969 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 'Meters First'

The Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 is one of the most requested watches we get at HODINKEE HQ, and there's a good reason why. Rolex first released the reference in 1962, and it was in production until 1989. It is one of the longest references to be continuously produced in all of Rolex history. The Submariner started out as a no-date watch, and although that option is still offered today, it's examples like this ref. 5513 that get us the most excited. Whether it's the symmetry or the simplicity, no-date Rolex Submariners are the centerpiece of countless watch collections worldwide. The example we have here today is from 1969, and it has a matte dial with a "meters first" depth rating. 

A 1960s Tradition Chronograph Ref. 73323 By Heuer For Sears, Roebuck And Co.

Tradition was a watch brand in the 1960s and '70s that consisted of watches made by Heuer and sold at Sears, Roebuck and Co. This chronograph dates to the 1960s and features a strong case and a nice patina on the dial – giving it the vintage charm we love. The black-on-white panda dial has engine-turned sub-dials that pick up the light nicely and are quite legible. Overall, the watch has the typical styling associated with Heuer chronographs of the period, with matchstick-style hands and a two-register dial, while also offering impressive value-for-money. Finally, the compact 36mm diameter ensures that the watch will wear quite easily on most wrist sizes.

The Full Set

In addition to the three highlights above, we have a beautiful Ulysse Nardin pocket watch from the 1940s, a cool Heuer Regatta with a black-PVD case and bracelet from the 1980s, a Vulcain Cricket from the 1950s, and an uncommon Omega Seamaster 60 from 1971. Head over to the HODINKEE Shop to check out all of our latest vintage-watch additions! 

Welcome to the twentieth installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Josh Dux, Guido Maniscalco, Lucas Borba Cravo, Uros Prokic, and Michael Sutton.

Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story.

Josh Dux And His Omega Seamaster

For Josh, a teacher living in Cambodia, this Omega Seamaster is an essential part of his workday – from timing his lesson activities to knowing when class ends and keeping track of how much time he’s been interrupted. But aside from the everyday functions the watch performs, Josh's Omega accompanies him everywhere and withstands all the rigors of his adventurous life. He's proud to call himself a one watch kind of guy, but perhaps a new watch is in his future.

@jvondux

Guido Maniscalco And His Rolex Day-Date

A native of Tampa, Florida, Guido has been a vintage watch collector for over 20 years. He acquired his most notable piece when this Rolex Day-Date caught his eye. He has found only two other examples of this watch over the years, which makes him believe that this particular model – with its Clous de Paris dial – is rare. Guido feels a wristwatch is one of those special possessions that carry a person's history throughout their life, and he looks forward to being the custodian of this Day-Date for many years to come.

Lucas Borba Cravo And His Seiko Speedtimer 6139-6001

Lucas is a proud watch lover from Sao Paulo, Brazil. The story of how his Seiko "Pogue" was obtained goes like this: After witnessing a physical altercation on the street and seeing the watch fly off someone's wrist, Lucas's grandfather retrieved the watch from the ground after it was never claimed. The watch would later need to be serviced, but together with its scratches and unique backstory, Lucas's curiosity was only peaked more after it was gifted to him. Since then, he's become a huge fan of Seiko, and his interest in mechanical watches has only grown.

@lucasborbacravo

Uros Prokic And His Strela Chronograph

Uros is originally from Serbia but currently living in Portland, Oregon. His favorite timepiece in his collection is this Strela chronograph – a gift from his father. Uros is proud to share that he wore the watch on his wrist as he was defending his dissertation while earning his Ph.D. in Political Science from Portland State University. He appreciates the watch's rich history, its Cyrillic details, but most importantly, his wife thinks it's the best-looking watch in his collection.

Michael Sutton And His Grand Seiko SBGW231

Los Angeles resident Michael Sutton has been a watch collector for years. A few years ago, he was able to go to one of HODINKEE's pop-up events in LA and not only meet some of the members of the gang, but also buy his Grand Seiko SBGW231. Michael fondly recalls not only his father's Seiko watches when he was growing up, but also those his uncle would bring back from business trips to Japan. With its impeccable finishing, time-only functionality, and hand-winding movement, his SBGW231 is a stripped-down expression of what he loves about watches and is the one watch that keeps him connected to his father and uncle.

@LLCOOLWATCH

Ready To Submit Your Own Watch Story? Here's How It Works

1. Pick one watch that is very special to you, and get your camera phone ready.

2. Record a video telling us your most interesting or meaningful story about your watch. Let's say 2-3 minutes is the sweet spot – if you go longer, that's okay. (And please remember to introduce yourself: your name and where you are from.)

3. Get creative, keep it clean, and have fun! 

4. Take some photos on the wrist and a few shots of the watch so that we can proudly display them on our site. Horizontal, please.

5. To share your video and photos, you can either A) upload here; or B) upload to your preferred large file transfer service and send a link to mywatchstory@hodinkee.com.

After months of will-they-or-won't-they speculation across every corner of the watch world, Rolex dropped its new 2020 collections last week, and, boy, did they cause a stir. We got a totally new Submariner collection in a new, larger case, we got major updates to the Oyster Perpetual line that includes a new 41mm size and a ton of colorful dials, and we got some new dial and strap combos on other models including the maximalist Sky-Dweller. It was like a mini Baselworld as summer starts to turn to fall, firing up the hot-take machines from journalists, enthusiasts, and collectors alike. 

Obviously, I was excited to dig into the new products themselves and to see what watch collectors think about the latest crop of Rolex watches. That's always fun. But this year, I think the big lessons go beyond the watches themselves. We'll have plenty of nitty-gritty coverage of the new watches, including some of our signature reviews, but for now, I'm thinking big picture. 

Here are a few of my major takeaways from last week's announcements. I want this to be a conversation, though. Let me know down in the comments whether you agree or disagree with my takes, or if you think there's a major lesson I've left off. Alright, here we go.

#1 – Stop Worrying About The Numbers

When I first opened up a PDF spec sheet for the new Submariners and saw that glaring "41mm" staring back at me, I'll admit I winced a little bit. "They're making the Sub bigger?" I wondered to myself. Why? What gives? Are Rolex sport watches going to become unwearable for small-wristed wimps like myself? I decided to hold off on starting my Introducing story until I'd seen the watch in the metal, and, boy, did that turn out to be a good idea.

It's easy when you assess and review watches for a living to rely on instincts and key bits of info that you can count on to make your job easier and more efficient. It's just like any job in that way. But it turns out, I should probably pay less attention to numbers like case diameter than I have in the past. James has always been a proponent of lug-to-lug measurements for judging how a watch might wear. The new Submariner has me wondering if something like "outside lug width" or "lug to bracelet taper" might be something good to introduce too.

Wearing the most recent 40mm Submariner and the new 41mm Submariner side-by-side, it's hard to believe that the latter is larger than the former. The form factor and overall profile make a much bigger difference than the diameter itself. The result is a watch that's more comfortable and wearable than I'd expected. I won't belabor the point, but if you've got the ability to try a watch on rather than relying on the top-line numbers, it's almost always a better idea.

#2 – Rolex Is Paying Closer Attention Than We Think

It would be easy to look at the bright new dial colors that Rolex introduced in the Oyster Perpetual models and think that they're some kind of optimism-driving move in the middle of a year that, by most measures, is straight trash. That would miss out on two crucial things though: 1) Watches are developed over years, not months, so Rolex was definitely working on these long before face masks and hand sanitizer were currency; and 2) These colors do not come out of a vacuum and actually aren't new for Rolex at all.

Rolex often gets guff from the die-hard collecting community for not paying enough attention to the vintage enthusiasts and not actively leaning on its heritage in the ways that brands like Tudor, TAG Heuer, and Omega do. Rolex doesn't really pay service to the vintage community in outright, overt ways. It's not what they do. Or at least it wasn't until last week.

A much deeper dive into this is coming, trust me, but these colorful dials are firmly rooted in the enamel Stella dials made in the 1970s for Day-Dates. The colors aren't even just similar, they're almost exactly the same – look at the new yellow dial side-by-side with a yellow Stella, if you have any doubts. Will most customers know anything about this? No way. But it's a wink and a nod to the people who do, and it's a clear sign that Rolex knows we're here and wants us to know they see us too.

#3 – The 39mm Rolex Is (Almost) Dead

While I'm always going to be happy for new Rolex releases, there was one bit of sad Rolex news last week: The Oyster Perpetual 39 is no more. After a five-year run, it has been phased out of the collection, with the 41mm Oyster Perpetual replacing it. I get it, having 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, 39mm, and 41mm OPs is a lot. But why do you have to do me like this, Rolex? The OP 39 was my personal favorite watch in the modern Rolex collection, and I know a lot of collectors who felt the same way. The Crown giveth, and the Crown taketh away.

In a vacuum, that news is what it is. There's not much more to say – the largest OP got larger, and there's now a 5mm jump from 36mm to 41mm. Alright. OK. Moving on. 

But, what's most interesting here is that this leaves just one 39mm sport watch left in the entire Rolex collection: The Explorer. The Air-King has a similar case to the Explorer but at 40mm, and the OP case at 41 isn't all that different either. Will the Explorer stay 39mm long term or eventually swell in size with the rest of the collection? Only time will tell, but I'm officially on 39mm Watch 2020 until further notice.

#4 – Movements Matter, Even If Most Customers Don't Realize It

Quietly, the biggest news from Rolex last week was that almost every model in the collection now has a current-generation movement with a Chronergy escapement. It's kind of weird how late the Submariner was to the party, but now everything from the Sub and GMT to the Day-Date and Oyster Perpetual has a high-efficiency movement with longer power reserve and Rolex's proprietary escapement inside.

For most people who buy one of the approximately one million watches that Rolex makes each year, the paragraph you just read will literally mean nothing. It's pure gibberish. But that doesn't matter. Rolex has made its name on making extremely high-quality watches that just work, and, in many cases, work better than watches that cost two or three times the price (if not more). There's a reason why you can spot modern Rolex watches on the wrists of both A-list celebrities and the likes of Roger Smith. 

Jack has often said that when he asked someone at Omega whether or not the Co-Axial Escapement helps them sell watches, he was told that there are maybe six people on the planet who understand horology well enough to really get why that technology is so important. I would imagine it's the same for Rolex and their in-house tech. I can't imagine, "Well, sir or madam, this watch also has our proprietary Chronergy escapement, with its paramagnetic hairspring" is the final straw that sells a bunch of watches. But I am extremely glad that Rolex is continuing to push in this direction anyway. Better is better, whether you understand why or not. And "better" is Rolex's bread and butter.

#5 – Everyone Still Loves Arguing About Rolex On The Internet

This might be the only 100% accurate truism about watches today: If there is one new Rolex watch and five people having a conversation, you'll get at least a dozen different opinions thrown onto the table. It's some sort of mathematical anomaly, but it's always there. We wrote five stories about the new Rolex models the night that they dropped and, as of publishing this, we've got more than 1,100 comments on those five posts. Am I surprised? Not one bit. 

While some people might see this as silly – you can bet that 99% of the commenters are yet to see any of these watches in the metal, and many of the comments were made before live photos of any kind existed for most of these watches online – I see it as invigorating. We're in the middle of a global pandemic, our social and political orders are in question, and yet we're finding ways to engage with one another over little mechanical timekeepers that we wear on our wrists. If that doesn't make you chuckle a little bit, I don't know what will.

This is quietly one of Rolex's greatest strengths: Watch lovers take everything the company does so personally, despite the fact that the company tries its hardest not to make anything feel too personal at all. A new strap on a Sky-Dweller is either the second coming of the messiah or an abomination meant to personally insult one random watch collector; the 41mm Submariner is either the final evolution of the world's most iconic watch or the shark jump that will drive the Genevois manufacture into obscurity. No matter what Rolex does, collectors don't just take note, they care. In 2020, that's about as good as it gets.

HODINKEE has come a long way since its inception. We are constantly striving to make this community we love better, whether it is through award-winning editorial coverage across multiple platforms or bringing you some of the best modern and vintage watches via the HODINKEE Shop. Our goal remains to make people fall in love with watches and to bring you products and services that make our hobby better. 

And that last bit is especially important. Everything we do, we do in the spirit of serving the watch community so that our shared passion is more accessible and fun. It is why we are really excited to share something with you that we have been working on for the last three years. 

Today, we bring you HODINKEE Insurance, the easiest and most comprehensive way to insure your watches.

Anyone who has ever bought themselves a nice watch and then tried to add it to an insurance policy will know just how big a hassle it usually is. You need receipts or an appraisal, a pile of photos, sometimes a notary has to get involved, and that doesn't even touch on the time and patience required to get a watch properly protected. And let's not get into how cumbersome it gets when we're talking about vintage watches. Frankly, it sucks, and it is one of the biggest pain points we have heard from the community over the years. 

It doesn't have to be that way. So we decided to do something about it. 

It was the feedback from the community that sparked this idea and set it into motion nearly three years ago. Insurance isn't easy behind the scenes, but we wanted to make it as easy as possible for those of us who just want peace of mind when it comes to wearing and enjoying watches. So we found an incredible underwriting partner in Chubb, one of the world's leaders in property insurance, and then set our engineers and designers to work, speaking with countless collectors along the way to find out what could make the insurance experience better for them. We're extremely proud of what we've come up with.

Faster & Better

The first problem we knew we needed to solve was making it easier to sign up for insurance. There is no reason you need to fill out dozens of pages of forms to protect your beloved Submariner. We've pared down the sign-up process as much as we possibly could. Simply tell us a little bit about yourself and what you want to insure. That's it. Then take a photo of your watch (which you can do right on your phone in the HODINKEE App) and input its market value. In most cases, you'll get a quote in just a few seconds, sign up, and your policy kicks in right away. It's that simple. 

It's even easier if you're already a member of the HODINKEE Community and are already managing your collection in your profile. You can add watches directly to HODINKEE Insurance from your virtual collection, eliminating even more steps of the process.

So what happens once you've got a policy? What if you want to add a new grail that you finally picked? And what about removing that old piece you had to sell to make the grail happen? You can add and remove watches from your policy at any time, again right from the app or computer. If your premium ends up dropping, we refund you the balance, so you never have to worry about overpaying.

Serious Protection

From the beginning, one of the keys to making HODINKEE Insurance a success was finding the right insurance partner, and we knew quickly that Chubb was the perfect partner for us. They've been in the property and collector insurance space longer than some watch manufactures have been creating watches. 

In addition to their claims department being available 24/7 in case you do suffer a loss, HODINKEE Insurance and Chubb will offer investment protection, which means each of your watches is protected up to 150% of its insured value, up to the total value of your policy. So if that vintage Speedmaster jumps in price after an important auction, you don't need to worry about updating your policy. It's protected at its new market value, right away.

Beyond this, there is no deductible with HODINKEE Insurance, and you are covered in case anything happens to your watch anywhere in the world. 

We're also bolstering this with additional help directly from the HODINKEE team. We've now got our own licensed insurance agents who will be available to answer any questions you might have. Like I said, we always imagined this as being insurance by watch collectors, for watch collectors, so you can have a conversation with someone who actually knows what a Calatrava is and why you want to keep yours safe. 

Signing Up

HODINKEE Insurance is available right now and is open to anyone with a United States address (sorry to everyone in our international community – we're working on it!). Traditional insurance is a headache, but it doesn't have to be that way. HODINKEE Insurance is here to help, and we can't wait to hear what you think of it.

Please let us know what you think of HODINKEE Insurance down in the comments below. We want to make this the best insurance in the world for watch collectors, and we plan on growing and evolving what we can offer over time. 

Click here to check it out and get a quote!

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, SoundCloud, Google Play and Spotify). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us what topics you'd like us to chat about (or email thegreynato@gmail.com).

It's as easy as one-two-three for this episode of The Grey NATO which features an in-depth (accurate pun) chat between Jason and the wonderfully talented and very adventurous Laurent Ballesta. Widely known for his Blancpain-supported Gombessa projects, Ballesta is a world-class underwater photographer and has created several projects that pushed the very limits of diving, photography, and our collective knowledge of several key aquatic species. From deep dives under Antarctic ice to living at pressure for nearly a month of incredibly long and deep dives, his films are nothing short of TGN required viewing. 

Before that fascinating chat, the guys are catching up on end-of-summer camping plans, project property updates, Land Rover maintenance, and some excellent outerwear. Keep your fingers away from that pause button as James is sporting a brand new bag and Jason has a special report from a Royal Navy diver. Finally, a huge thank you to G-Shock and their Master Of G watches for supporting this episode of The Grey NATO. All this and more, just press play.

Show Notes...

0:01
G-Shock Master Of G Watches

2:33
Norrøna Clothing

17:05
CWC 1983 Quartz Royal Navy Divers watch 

18:12
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Steel and Gold

21:25
Laurent Ballesta

22:00
Laurent’s book "700 Sharks In The Night"

48:20
Nikon D5

1:33:15
Tango bag from The Observer Collection

1:34:10
Robert Spangle on Instagram

1:39:02
"From the Diary of a Royal Navy Dive Watch" via CWCaddict.com

Quick Take

Do you remember April? It was a few months ago, and while I recall neither its position nor its progression as a measurement of time, I do recall writing about how Vacheron Constantin announced that it would be offering its Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with a blue dial and a matching bracelet in 19k pink gold. As time is a flat circle, we meet again, as Vacheron Constantin has just announced a blue and gold version of its Overseas Self-Winding as part of the news cycle surrounding Watches & Wonders Shanghai.

Initial Thoughts

When the full gold and blue treatment was added to the Overseas QP, I said, "about damn time," and I can't say I feel any different about the time and date version of the same watch, aka the Overseas Self-Winding. With a 41mm-wide pink-gold case, this new addition to the Overseas line rocks a gorgeous blue dial, and you can now complete the quick-change strap triple-play as the rubber and the alligator will have to compete with a lovely pink-gold bracelet. 

Like I said when the same treatment was applied to the Overseas Perpetual Calendar, while this new model doesn't bring anything actually new to the table, it does expand upon a popular line with the addition of a mount that a lot of customers must have been asking for (especially for a watch characterized by its inclusion of several straps and a tool-free way of changing said straps). Functionality remains entirely unchanged, with the Overseas Self-Winding sitting pretty at just 11mm thick with 150 meters of water resistance, Vacheron's 5100 automatic movement, and a sapphire display caseback. 

Hitting boutiques with a price tag of $46,200, this all-gold Overseas Self-Winding represents a considerable jump up from a steel version ($19,600), but may offer a strong middle ground for those wanting a more precious experience without having to pony up some $88,500 for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar. Regardless of complication (How long will we have to wait to see this bracelet added to the pink-gold version of the Overseas Dual Time?), it's simply hard to beat the blue/gold effect, and this new model seems a strong addition to the Overseas lineup. 

The Basics

Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas Self-Winding
Reference Number: 4500V/110R-B705

Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 11mm
Case Material: 18k 5N pink gold
Dial Color: Blue lacquered satin finish
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Hands and markers
Water Resistance: 150 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Comes with a matching 18k pink-gold full bracelet, blue alligator leather strap, and a blue rubber strap; all featuring tool-less quick change

The Movement

Caliber: Vacheron Constantin 5100
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Diameter: 30.6mm
Thickness: 4.7mm
Power Reserve: ~60 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 37
Additional Details: Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece 

Pricing & Availability

Price: $46,200

For more, click here.

It is a bit surprising at first to hear that this is the first rattrapante-only complicated watch from Lange – your brain seizes up a little bit as you think, "Now surely that can't be the case." But it is. Now, the complication is far from unknown to Lange, and to Lange connoisseurs and enthusiasts, of course. We have the Double Split, with split seconds and minutes and which is, it is worth mentioning, also a flyback chronograph (both seconds and minutes), and there is also the Triple Split, which is the only split-seconds chronograph ever made which splits the seconds, minutes, and hours. 

Then we get into really rarefied territory with the Tourbograph Pour Le Mérite and the Grand Complication, which includes a rattrapante chronograph with diablotine, or lightning seconds (my personal favorite candidate for a special GPHG award for least frequently made complication). However, it is indeed the case that there has never been a rattrapante-only Lange wristwatch, until now – Lange has just introduced the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold, in celebration of 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte (counting from the establishment, by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, of his first workshop in 1845). It is part of a three-watch launch at Watches & Wonders Shanghai. The watch case (41.2mm x 12.6mm) is in Lange's Honeygold, which is a proprietary gold alloy that Lange says is "considerably harder than platinum" (and don't expect to find out what's in the alloy any time soon – it is at Lange a more closely guarded secret than what's in the Colonel's blend of 11 secret herbs and spices).

A rattrapante chronograph is also known as a "split-seconds" chronograph; the first modern version of the complication, with a heart-piece for the split mechanism, was created by Joseph-Thaddeus Winnerl, in 1838. It is, traditionally, considered one of the three classic high complications, along with the perpetual calendar and the minute repeater, and classically, any watch that wanted to rejoice in the title of "Grand Complication" had to incorporate all three. The rattrapante chronograph mechanism is part of this trilogy, thanks to the extremely delicate nature of the complication, and the great care that must be taken in its manufacture, assembly, and adjustment in order for it to work properly.

As with the mechanical watch itself, understanding how the rattrapante chronograph works is a bit taxing at first because it is not really like any other mechanical device with which we regularly interact. 

The diagram below, from Donald de Carle's Complicated Watches And Their Repair, is a useful one to mull over if you're curious about how the mechanism works. At the bottom of the diagram is the split-seconds wheel, which is located in the center of the movement. The split-seconds wheel is mounted on a hollow pipe that runs through the movement to the dial side; the split-seconds hand is friction fit onto the pipe. In the center of the pipe is the solid pivot for the center chronograph seconds hand. The center chronograph seconds wheel, which carries the pivot and the hand, sits above the split-seconds wheel; mounted on it is the heart-shaped cam G. When the chronograph's running and the two hands are not split, the ruby roller I, under the pressure of the spring J, sits in the notch at the lowest point of the heart piece. This mechanically couples the split-seconds wheel to the chronograph seconds wheel, and causes both the split-seconds hand and chronograph seconds hand to rotate together. 

Operating the split-seconds pusher causes the column wheel to rotate, allowing the pincers, K, to fall onto the split-seconds wheel under the pressure of their springs, F. This freezes the split-seconds hand. The chronograph seconds hand, its wheel, and the heart piece continue to rotate and, as they do, the ruby roller rides up and down the outer edge of the heart piece. When the pincers are opened (by pushing the split-seconds pusher, which rotates the column wheel another increment) the ruby roller, under the pressure of spring J, rotates instantly to the low point of the heart piece, and the split-seconds hand "catches up" to the main chronograph seconds hand.

The action of the mechanism is very light, and the chronograph seconds hand and split-seconds hand are usually extremely thin in order to reduce inertial loads on the mechanism, especially when the two hands return to a coinciding position. Precisely aligning the two hands is a taxing and time-consuming adjustment, as they must be lined up so that when the hands are running together, they appear to be a single hand rather than one superimposed on another. Usually, a classic split-seconds chronograph will have two column wheels. One is for start, stop, and reset of the chronograph works, and the other specifically is to control the split mechanism.

The new rattrapante caliber is the L101.2, and it is, in many respects, an absolutely classic example of the form. The center of attention will be the rattrapante mechanism itself, which is set up in the traditional fashion. The balance cock for the in-house screw-type balance is just visible in the above image at about 3:00, and the rattrapante pincers and split-seconds wheel are visible at the center of the movement, along with the column wheel which controls them. At about 9:00 in the image is the primary column wheel for start, stop, and reset of the chronograph.

The movement decoration is, as you would expect from Lange, exceedingly detailed and elaborate. Steel components are straight-grained or mirror polished, with mirror-finished bevels; and the German silver plates and bridges are decorated in a fine-grained finish which is similar to the fire-gilt finish used in Lange pocket watches of the 19th and 20th centuries. The chronograph bridge and balance cock are engraved as usual, but this time, the engravings themselves have been treated with black rhodium, for better visual contrast (I'm on the fence a bit about whether or not I wouldn't prefer them left untreated – the grain of the exposed metal has a wonderful subtle beauty I feel I might miss here, but I think I'll have to wait to see the watch in person, whenever that may be). 

For the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold, Lange has opted for an unusual configuration for the sub-dials, with the running seconds at 6:00 and the 30-minute totalizer at 12:00. Only one other Lange watch has used this configuration – that's the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. The Tourbograph Perpetual has the 30-minute totalizer at 12:00 and the running seconds is via the tourbillon at 6:00, so that's obviously a different animal. And both the Double and Triple Split have their running seconds and minutes totalizers in the lower position on the dial on which they are found in the Datograph Up/Down (in the case of the Double Split, the position in which you find the date in the Up/Down is taken up by a power reserve indicator, and in the Triple Split, by the split-hours totalizer). The arrangement does, I think, give the watch very much a pocket watch feel – there is something about that configuration that is catnip to anyone who (like me) cut their teeth horologically on pocket watches.

As Lange already had an existing rattrapante mechanism in the Tourbograph and the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual, I thought it might be interesting to compare the Tourbograph rattrapante mechanism with the 1815 Rattrapante (the rattrapante mechanism in the 1815 Rattrapante and the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual are identical). While there are some obvious general similarities, there are also major differences. The Tourbograph, obviously, has to leave room for the tourbillon at 6:00 on the dial, and for the moon-phase and perpetual calendar date indication at 12:00, so in that movement (caliber L133.1), the 30-minute totalizer is at 9:00. In the images above, you can see the large, gold-colored wheel for the 30-minute totalizer at 3:00 (in the image) in the Tourbograph caliber L133.1, and at 12:00 in the Rattrapante caliber L101.2. The rattrapante clamps, wheel, column wheel, and general arrangement of the lateral clutch is the same in both movements.

I haven't had a new favorite watch in a long time, but this is, by golly, a contender. Now we can always quibble, and especially with Lange, arguing over details is half  – maybe more than half – of the fun. However, there is little, at least from where I'm sitting, to dislike in the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold. The idea of a rattrapante-only chronograph from Lange is immensely compelling; I love that they changed it up a bit from the standard equilateral triangle composition that characterizes their other chronographs. The only thing that really might give anyone pause is that if we want to be really traditionalist about it, a monopusher rattrapante would have been nice, but I think the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold has more than enough of its own Germanic charm that I don't really miss the Genevan suavity of a monopusher. It's another watch on the increasingly long list of things I'm going to bend over backwards to see in the metal ... when I can.

The Lange 1815 Rattrapante Chronograph Honeygold: case, 41.20mm x 12.60mm in Lange Honeygold alloy; sapphire front and back. Dial, black, solid silver. Movement, Lange caliber L101.2, rattrapante chronograph with 30-minute totalizer, 32.60mm x 7.40mm, with 58-hour power reserve, running at 21,600 vph in 36 jewels. Plates and bridges in frosted/grained finish German silver, with hand-engraved, rhodium-filled chronograph bridge and balance cock. Power reserve, 58 hours. Limited edition of 100 pieces worldwide, released with the 1815 Thin Honeygold and the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold in celebration of 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte. Price, $134,000. For more, visit ALange-Soehne.com.

Quick Take

Do you remember April? It was a few months ago, and while I recall neither its position nor its progression as a measurement of time, I do recall writing about how Vacheron Constantin announced that it would be offering its Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with a blue dial and a matching bracelet in 19k pink gold. As time is a flat circle, we meet again, as Vacheron Constantin has just announced a blue and gold version of its Overseas Self-Winding as part of the news cycle surrounding Watches & Wonders Shanghai.

Initial Thoughts

When the full gold and blue treatment was added to the Overseas QP, I said, "about damn time," and I can't say I feel any different about the time and date version of the same watch, aka the Overseas Self-Winding. With a 41mm-wide pink-gold case, this new addition to the Overseas line rocks a gorgeous blue dial, and you can now complete the quick-change strap triple-play as the rubber and the alligator will have to compete with a lovely pink-gold bracelet. 

Like I said when the same treatment was applied to the Overseas Perpetual Calendar, while this new model doesn't bring anything actually new to the table, it does expand upon a popular line with the addition of a mount that a lot of customers must have been asking for (especially for a watch characterized by its inclusion of several straps and a tool-free way of changing said straps). Functionality remains entirely unchanged, with the Overseas Self-Winding sitting pretty at just 11mm thick with 150 meters of water resistance, Vacheron's 5100 automatic movement, and a sapphire display caseback. 

Hitting boutiques with a price tag of $46,200, this all-gold Overseas Self-Winding represents a considerable jump up from a steel version ($19,600), but may offer a strong middle ground for those wanting a more precious experience without having to pony up some $88,500 for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar. Regardless of complication (How long will we have to wait to see this bracelet added to the pink-gold version of the Overseas Dual Time?), it's simply hard to beat the blue/gold effect, and this new model seems a strong addition to the Overseas lineup. 

The Basics

Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas Self-Winding
Reference Number: 4500V/110R-B705

Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 11mm
Case Material: 18k 5N pink gold
Dial Color: Blue lacquered satin finish
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Hands and markers
Water Resistance: 150 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Comes with a matching 18k pink-gold full bracelet, blue alligator leather strap, and a blue rubber strap; all featuring tool-less quick change

The Movement

Caliber: Vacheron Constantin 5100
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Diameter: 30.6mm
Thickness: 4.7mm
Power Reserve: ~60 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 37
Additional Details: Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece 

Pricing & Availability

Price: $46,200

For more, click here.

As you'll soon see, it's been a great week in the world of vintage watches, with a host of interesting pieces making themselves known to the collecting world. Thanks to the inclusion of a first-execution Ref. 2446 Autavia and a Zenith-powered Le Gant, there's a strong showing of reverse panda chronographs, complemented by a sector-dial Fortis and an early diver from Girard-Perregaux rounding out the unconventional must-haves category. For good measure, there's an outstanding Seiko world-timer with an Olympic twist. 

1957 Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Ref. 7254

Not to say Girard-Perregaux hasn't released much in the way of interesting dive watches over the years, but they're not exactly the first name that comes to mind upon mention of the horological subcategory. As much as I can respect the brand, it just doesn't enjoy the reputation Rolex or Blancpain does within the realm, which I'd argue is a testament to other watchmakers' genius within the realm and less so the quality of GP's various references. History played out as it did, and there's no changing that, but that's not to say we can't shed a little light on a reference of note that you've probably never heard of. 

This is the initial iteration of the brand's Deep Diver – its second effort in the dive watch space after the manually wound Sea Hawks. Produced for just one year in an estimated total of just 500 pieces, this is surely one of the more difficult early divers to get your hands on, and it's got all the hallmarks you'd expect of a great, pioneering dive watch, save for a rotating bezel. These include applications of radium, red dial text, and an impressive depth rating. Best of all, they don't seem to entirely break the bank after surfacing, but as previously mentioned, it'll be quite the mission to find another. 

One of my favorite details on this piece, which I'd bet you've already noticed by now, is the lower-positioned, seconds sub-dial text that reads "100 FATHOMS." This proudly displayed water resistance is the result of GP's decision to incorporate a reinforced crystal, along with a gasket-sealed, screw-down caseback, but is likely also the product of some friendly competition. While it can't be confirmed, many believe this application of text to be indicative of Girard-Perregaux's intent to take on Blancpain, along with the dive watch market as a whole. Despite the success, or lack thereof, there's no denying the compelling nature of this reference. 

An eBay seller in Miami, Florida, has this one listed with an asking price of $2,999, though you also have the option to make an offer. Find the full listing here. 

Fortis Sector Dial

One's love for a vintage watch can be rooted in a multitude of places. For some, there's a personal connection or cherished memories developed while wearing it; for others, the fondness stems from the fascinating history of the reference and one's own journey to fully understand said history. And then there are those that fall into the sometimes unforgiving pit of horological lust, a state I'm admittedly more familiar with than I'd like to admit. Earlier this week, I found myself in that very same pit, but instead of jumping out of it myself, I thought I'd rope you into the pit with me. Come on down! 

You're looking at an 18k gold timepiece produced by Fortis, presumably in the late 1940s to early 1950s. While it measures a conservative 34mm across, it's fitted with a properly tasteful, applied numeral-clad sector dial – the guilty party behind my attraction – which I'm sure affords it a great deal more presence on the wrist than your average watch of this size. Between the script used in displaying the Fortis name, the dauphine-shaped hands, and the ornate style of the case and lugs, there's a whole lot to love here. Best of all, it's a relatively affordable watch, and who's going to complain about that? 

It's tough to say exactly what condition the dial is in, though I'd wager that it's better than you'd expect and worth a leap of faith. That's my one gripe here: Just one single photo has been provided by the auction house. With that said, I'm sure they'd be happy to provide additional shots should you inquire. All in all, the piece looks to be in good condition, with sharply defined case lines suggesting it's unpolished. Like I said, I'd bet a great deal of what would appear to be dial marking and yellowing is in fact on the crystal's surface, likely making this yet another one of those scenarios where you've gotta look past a weathered, albeit easily replaced, component.

Schuler Auktionen of Zurich, Switzerland, will be offering this piece in its sale taking place on Monday, when it'll be offered with an estimate of CHF 400–600. For more details and the rest of the catalog, click here. 

1963 Heuer Autavia Ref. 2446

Once upon a time, the very watch we're about to discuss commanded similar money to a host of modern supercars. While it used to go for 0-60-in-under-three-seconds money, it's going for more of a six-second, decently equipped luxury sedan number at this point – and believe me, I recognize the bizarreness of these truths. Not to sound like a broken record, but I'm still confused by the hesitance of some to get into Heuer post-bust, as once again, they're still the same watches everyone got hyped about, but now they're priced correctly. 

Let's say you're looking to get into the vintage Heuer game like the Kool-Aid Man would enter a kitchen or sporting event. This is the watch to do it with. Not only is it the first reference in the lineage of wrist-mounted Autavias, but like the aforementioned Girard-Perregaux, this piece hails from the first execution of the watchmaker's production run. In the case of the Ref. 2446, first-execution pieces are characterized by the presence of a differently shaped case, along with oversized hands, sub-dial registers, and luminous numerals. The only non-first-execution facet of the watch are its second-execution hands, which are perfectly correct and would've been fitted to the watch at the factory. All of this has been preserved beautifully, as the photos surely suggest. 

Another detail worth making note of on this piece is its caseback. The watch might not have been owned by a famous actor or delivered to a general on a military base overseas, but being a warm and fuzzy type, it's similarly compelling in my mind. A father and mother would've given this to their son way back when, which would've been quite the gift considering Heuer's renown during the period. They sealed the deal with the engraving of a Bible verse, and regardless where you stand on all that, you've gotta admit that it's a nice, sentimental touch. 

The Berlin dealer Shuck The Oyster is offering this Heuer. Its asking price has been set at €48,000. Get in touch by hitting the link. 

1964 Seiko World Time Ref. 6217-7000

In all honesty, I'm not the biggest Seiko guy and have often been turned off by the ways in which some advocate for collecting them. I own a good few, but have also met the GTG attendee who can't leave without telling you about how Grand Seiko's finishing is superior to Patek, and the guy who thinks the vintage Seiko market will soon eclipse that of Rolex any day now. At the risk of coming across too harsh, I'll put it this way: They're incredible watches, and there are no two ways about that, which is why there's no need to overzealously justify one's purchase. I'm not sure if this next piece is the next big thing, but I'm sure you'll agree it's a cool piece. 

With this many colors and city names on its dial, the Ref. 6217-7000 could only be one thing – a world-time watch. That it is, and an interesting one at that, considering how a few cities seldom found on such complications have made their way onto its dial and the reasoning behind its inception. Seiko produced these in honor of the 1964 Summer Olympics held in Tokyo and even adorned their casebacks with an Olympic flame to mark the occasion. Given the number of foreign athletes that found themselves in town for the festivities, the potential usefulness of a 24-hour-hand-equipped world-time watch was obvious. 

Unsurprisingly, this example dates back to 1964 and was either worn with extreme care or rarely worn, if ever. All too often these linen dials get dirtied over years of wear, but this one is still clean, with all original printing. The applications of color remain vibrant as ever, and the case looks to have never been polished, sweetening the deal even further. Forget "for the money," forget "for a Japanese watch" – this thing is just plain old cool. No need to prove it. End of story. 

You'll find this one in the inventory of the Belgian dealer Perpetual Watch Lover. It's been priced at €1,500, which seems reasonable given the pricing of other lesser examples as of late. Click here to find out more.

Le Gant Chronograph

To wrap things up for the week, I thought we'd double down on the history lessons and do a little more learning. While scrolling through eBay this week, I had a little free time on my hands and decided to dig a little deeper into the histories of brand names I know next to nothing about. The truth of the matter is, a ridiculous number of companies produced vintage chronographs back in the day, some definitely better than others, and it's the manufacturers behind those pieces that are worth looking into. For a little insight into a particularly tasteful chronograph with next to no name recognition, you'll want to keep reading. 

Like the dial and listing both show, this is a Le Gant. But what is a Le Gant? Le Gant was a Swiss watchmaker that primarily produced timepieces for the American department store Montgomery Ward & Co. Later on, they'd sell off the name to Seiko, but right around this period, they were onto something. Many of their watches were made using components sourced from other manufactures, including Zenith, who's behind the Cal. 146 HP you'll find beneath this chronograph's caseback. Like you'd expect, the bridge signature reads "MONTGOMERY WARD & CO," reassuring that this watch is just as it should be.

Its dial has the so-called "reverse panda" configuration that's sought after in chronograph collecting circles, but perhaps more notable is the minimalist typeface found within the subdials. While I'm not sure if this was the brand's intention, the size and weight of the subdial numerals forces you to focus in on the contrast, creating a pseudo "big eye" appearance without the actual big eyes. It also measures a stately 38mm across, ensuring that it won't feel outdated, despite being a several-decade-old watch. 

An eBay seller based out of Happy Valley, Oregon, has this chronograph listed in an auction that'll come to a close on Tuesday evening. At the time of publishing, the high bid stands at $662. Get in on the action here.