The H. Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green doesn't look like any of the other stainless steel integrated bracelet watches that have been trending in 2019 and 2020. It follows the design of the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph released at the beginning of the year, but this time around, it features a time-only configuration and a brilliant green fumé dial. The stainless steel integrated bracelet sports watch can often be full of designs that are certainly iconic, but often appear derivative. That's because most of the designs stem from two creations from one man, Gerald Genta: the Royal Oak and Nautilus.
But the Streamliner pulls inspiration from an unlikely place – an aesthetic that was born in America during The Great Depression.
In the '30s, aerodynamic streamlining transformed locomotive design. It allowed trains to travel much faster and more efficiently, and drag-reducing body panels gave the train a look that's reminiscent of bullet trains of today, even though the design is almost a century old. The streamlined trains were characterized by large, rounded, unadorned panels that lacked any sort of ornamentation. Horizontal lines gave the impression of speed. Aircraft of the era shared this design language as well; take a look at a Douglas DC-3, which entered service in 1935. The plane not only exemplified streamlined design, but it changed air travel forever. Now passengers could take a single plane, with three refueling stops, across the country.
The Commodore Vanderbilt designed by Carl F. Kantola. The streamlined shroud, meant to improve aerodynamic efficiency, came to characterize Streamlined moderne locomotives of the '30s.
The new Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green shares a design language with the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph. They both feature the same rounded curves that emulate those of the trains that came to define the Streamlined moderne style of the '30s. The 40mm case, along with the integrated bracelet, contains very few straight lines, instead favoring arcs that come together to form fluid lines of the case and bracelet that gracefully articulate around the wrist.
Jack remarked of the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, "The watch is also resounding proof that yes, you can design an integrated bracelet, stainless steel sports watch in 2020 that does not seem derivative of previous designs (and kudos to Moser for not inflicting a blue dial on it). This would be an interesting aesthetic to see carried over to a time-only watch as well, with the proportions tweaked appropriately."
All of what made the original Streamliner design fresh and unexpected is present in the time-only version. While blue has emerged as the de rigueur color for stainless steel sports watches with integrated bracelets over the last few years, H. Moser has settled on a green fumé dial, dubbed "Matrix Green" for this execution of the Streamliner. Fumé simply means "smoked," and H. Moser has specialized in this dial treatment. It's a signature touch from Moser that bolsters the strong visual identity that ties this radical design directly to H. Moser
In place of the caliber HMC 902 in the chronograph that introduced us to the Streamliner aesthetic is the time-only HMC 200. It's been used in H. Moser's Pioneer, Endeavor, and Heritage lines before. Another element that's also shared with the Pioneer series is the Globolight inserts that form the 3D hands. The material is ceramic-based, and includes Super-LumiNova. The Globolight lends an element of tool-watch-like functionality to the watch that, along with the fifth-second alternating seconds track, puts the "sport" in "sports watch."
Initial Thoughts
Leave it to H. Moser to go a different direction than everyone else. As Jack pointed out, it's fantastic that they didn't inflict a blue dial on the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph. With that being said, green dials are quickly becoming the new blue dial – but let's not forget, Moser has been championing the green dial since the beginning.
The amount of real estate that radial brushing takes up on the front side of the case is nothing short of impressive. The contrasting polishing that puts the crisp radial brush front and center, along with the fifth-seconds track, point to an aesthetic that hasn't been incorporated into watch design since the '70s, with a crop of tool watches that were all about the funk (think Omega's Flightmaster or Speedmaster MkII). And that's what I love about the Streamliner family: It brings the funk in a package that's elegant and visually appealing to folks who might not be prone to appreciate the individual design elements that make up the watch – all with a caliber that's made entirely in-house (the escapement is produced by Precision Engineering AG, a sister company of Moser) and executed with the level of finishing that's consistent with all of Moser's watches. Name another stainless steel sports watch that brings together a caliber with that level of sophistication and design elements from The Great Depression and '70s tool watches.
The Basics
Brand: H. Moser & Cie. Model: Streamliner Centre Seconds Reference Number: Reference 6200-1200
Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 11.8mm (measurement includes crystal) Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Matrix Green Indexes: Applied Lume: Present in the form of Globolight Water Resistance: 100m Strap/Bracelet: Bracelet, integrated
The Panerai Submersible is the most robust watch Panerai makes today, a highly water-resistant dive watch with large luminous indexes and a unidirectional bezel. Until recently, the Submersible was part of the larger Luminor collection, but since 2019, it's been broken out as its own proper collection of tool watches. Today, we're looking at the limited edition stainless steel Submersible Azzurro, Italian for "light blue." Its design blends those of the two core steel Submersibles released early last year: PAM00683, with its black dial, and PAM00959, with its blue ceramic bezel insert.
The movement is also the same, with the same 72 hours of power reserve and 28,800 vph rate, but it's now known as the P.900. You may recall that last year's mainline Subs had what was known as the OP XXXIV movement, which Panerai has renamed as the P.900. In all three cases, the movement is tucked away behind a screwed-down stainless steel caseback. The price of $9,800 also matches that of the aforementioned unlimited versions.
Initial Thoughts
Two of my favorite Panerai releases in recent memory are the PAM00959 and the PAM00683, the current-generation mainline Submersibles. The former's pairing of a blue bezel and a textured sharkskin-colored dial brought a freshness and summer vibe to the Submersible that I found pretty irresistible upon first seeing it, and it still strikes me as the best Submersible design to date. The latter presented a more classic take, with its black dial and black ceramic bezel. On first seeing the new Submersible Azzuro, it immediately struck me as a great-looking combination of these watches' aesthetics. Matched with a black rubber strap, it offers a pop of color on the bezel that serves as a nice accent without distracting from the classic Submersible look.
I like Panerai's decision to break out the Submersible line as its own collection. You'll notice that these are no longer Luminor Submersibles. For one thing, there are enough variations, complications, and limited editions within the Submersible range to justify its existence as a separate pillar of Panerai; and for another, it's a legitimate tool watch in a way that some other recent Panerai introductions aren't – the 30-meter-rated Luminor Due models, for example. From what I've observed, the Luminor Due has carved out a successful niche while bringing the Panerai aesthetic to a whole new form factor and consumers who wanted a sub-40mm Panerai. In addition to being a legitimate design object in the way that I think the Luminor and the Radiomir are, the Submersible is a tough and ready tool watch for divers, and with the new taxonomy, there's no mistaking that.
The Panerai Submersible Azzurro 42MM Limited Edition of 500 pieces will be available exclusively through Panerai's own e-commerce platform starting in September, but if you're interested in securing one sooner, the brand says pre-orders are being taken starting now.
Diameter: 42mm Thickness: 13.2mm thick Case Material: Satin AISI 316L steel Dial Color: Black Indexes: Applied framed luminous markers Lume: Super-LumiNova with green-blue luminescence Water Resistance: 30 bar Strap/Bracelet: Black rubber strap with pin buckle
The Movement
Caliber: P.900 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at nine o'clock, date Diameter: 12.5 lignes Thickness: 4.2mm Power Reserve: 72 hours (three days) Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 23 jewels
Pricing & Availability
Price: $9,800 Availability: Available in September, but pre-orders are being taken now. Limited Edition: 500 pieces, available exclusively through Panerai's e-commence platform
Life, as we know it, started underwater. The oceans cover more than 70 percent of the Earth's surface; that being the case, the majority of life on our planet is aquatic. To think, with all that water, the oceans are just about as unknown as the infinity of outer space, with only five percent having been explored to this point. As our climate changes, it is increasingly imperative to continue aquatic exploration in order to preserve and protect the oceans from forces hitherto unseen. Beginning in the mid-twentieth century, watches (specifically dive watches) became integral to marine efforts, both scientific and exploratory. Figures like Jacques Cousteau, Jacques Piccard, and – yes – even James Cameron spring to mind. The Bathyscaphe Trieste, Deep Sea Special, and the Aqua Lung have become mythical harbingers of dive watch lore.
Omega has long had a hand in aquatic exploration. Last year, Victor Vescovo set the new world record for the deepest dive, taking his submersible Limiting Factor 10,928 meters below the ocean's surface into the Mariana Trench. Strapped to the arms of the vessel were three Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional experimental dive watches. That depth meant that they beat the previous record – held by Captain Don Walsh and the aforementioned Jacques Piccard – by a mere 12 meters.
A Week on the Wrist: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
For everything you ever wanted to know about this watch and more, you don't want to miss this piece from our own Cole Pennington. Check it out here.
Now, they don't call it the Seamaster for nothing, especially as it pertains to the Diver 300M series. If you were ever unsure just how capable these watches are, I implore you to check out Cole Pennington's A Week on the Wrist with the newest regular production Diver 300M. In short, Omega has created one of the best known, and oft used, professional dive watches in the world (I mean, James Bond wore it for crying out loud). In the spirit of exploration and the safeguarding of the oceans, Omega has partnered with Nekton, a not-for-profit research foundation committed to protecting Earth's oceans, to create a new special edition professional diver. That watch is the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition, carrying over everything we know from the 300M series, but adding a new bezel crafted from grade-5 titanium, as well as a specially finished caseback and movement. In essence, this watch allows owners to directly support the protection of underwater environs around the world.
Initial Thoughts
Peter Blake aboard the Seamaster.
One of the better known aquatic explorers – and competitive yachtsman – was Peter Blake, whose untimely death occurred during an expedition to the Amazon in 2001. His vessel, aptly named the Seamaster, was capable of traveling anywhere with at least one and a half to two meters of water (essentially, where it could float, it could go). Blake set out on a series of expeditions to research the quality of life underwater across the globe. The goal was to take the fruits of this laborious effort and educate students in classrooms everywhere. But this was not just any educational endeavor, but rather one aimed at education through entertainment. Blake wanted people to fall in love with the aquatic environment through his explorations, and build awareness through education. That was some 20 years ago.
In honor of Blake, Nekton has named their new exploratory submersible vessel Seamaster 2. From inside this vessel, they hope to support the protection of at least 30% of the ocean by 2030, using cutting-edge technology to find out how the ocean is changing – and why. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition is representative of that mission.
The Seamaster on one of its many explorations.
The Seamaster 2 at work beneath the ocean.
This new special edition watch, much like the current generation Diver 300M, is a 42mm dive watch, water resistant to – no surprise here – 300m, with a screw-down crown and helium escape valve. The watch is chronometer-certified and resistant to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. All that being said, these are the same specs as its standard production counterparts.
The real "newness" of this watch is the bezel. Instead of the usual Liquidmetal and ceramic that you would find on other Seamaster dive bezels, here Omega has opted to forge the bezel from grade-5 titanium, with a laser-ablated diving scale in positive relief. This is the same material used to craft the entire case of the record-breaking Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep.
We have heard time and again that titanium is known for being lighter than steel, and an extremely strong material overall. Grade-5 titanium is actually far stronger than commercially-pure titanium. As such, it is able to withstand seawater and temperatures up to nearly 800°F. Moreover, it has low thermal expansion and high strength-to-weight ratio, both of which make it a great fit for exploration. While most professional divers these days utilize a dive computer as opposed to a dive watch, it's appropriate that grade-5 titanium was chosen for the bezel, the key component for timing a dive. Aesthetically, the effect of the titanium bezel gives off an almost sandblasted look.
The dial carries over the now-iconic wave motif in a laser-ablated black ceramic (hence the ZrO2 noted on the dial) that is matte finished. The closed caseback features an embossed Nekton submarine medallion with the Seamaster 2 name illustrated on the side. Omega caseback engravings (such as the Seamaster seahorse) are always well-executed, and this is no exception. Inside sits the Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 featuring special finishing with Geneva waves in arabesque and a rhodium-plated rotor and bridges. Even though you cannot see the movement, it's nice to know the decoration is there. As is standard fare for Omega these days, the watch has the enhanced METAS certification as well.
Speaking on the partnership with Nekton, Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann said, "Our friends at Nekton are protecting the ocean with the global goal of 30% protection by 2030. As a pioneering brand with a long history of pushing at the boundaries of what is possible, we have the utmost respect for this bold, confident vision and we're thrilled to help make the goal a reality."
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition comes on either an integrated rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet. Of course, you always have the option to put it on a NATO, which looks quite cool as well. The watch not only supports a good cause, but also allows owners to do the same by purchasing one. In the words of the late Peter Blake, in speaking about the importance of underwater environmental causes, "Why bother? It's too important not to, for all of us."
The Basics
Brand: Omega Model: Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition Reference Number: 210.32.42.20.01.002 (on rubber) and 210.30.42.20.01.002 (on steel bracelet)
Diameter: 42mm Thickness: 13.5mm Case Material: Stainless steel, with a grade-5 titanium bezel Dial Color: Black Indexes: Applied markers Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 300m Strap/Bracelet: Rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: 8806 Functions: Hours, minutes seconds Diameter: 29mm Power Reserve: 55 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 3.5Hz Jewels: 35 Chronometer Certified: Yes, and METAS certified Additional Details: Special finishing with Geneva waves in arabesque and rhodium-plated rotor and bridges
Pricing & Availability
Price: $5,850 on rubber strap and $6,150 on stainless steel bracelet Availability: Immediately Limited Edition: No, special edition
The Breguet Tradition wristwatches are an especially challenging base on which to build complications. The collection is based on Abraham Louis Breguet's famous souscription watches, which were designed to be relatively affordable but very high quality timepieces, which reduced the master's watchmaking philosophy to its essentials. Today's Tradition timepieces use the architecture of the souscription watches as the basis for their design, but what was hidden behind the caseback in the originals is moved to the dial side of the watch and made visible in the modern watches.
The 7597 Quantième Rétrograde.
Due to the fact that the dial of even a basic Tradition watch already has a great many visual and mechanical elements, complications added to the basic design have to be implemented with great care, both in order to ensure they are visually harmonious and, more practically, to simply make sure that none of the mechanisms interfere with each other. Retrograde displays are especially suitable for the Tradition family, as they employ curved sectors rather than sub-dials, which allows them to visually stand out from the various circular elements on the dial of a Tradition watch. Breguet has just announced a new, retrograde complication in the Tradition Collection – the reference 7597 Quantième Rétrograde, which has a very large, generously proportioned retrograde date complication. Retrograde displays can be found in Abraham Louis Breguet's own watches, of course – perhaps no more notably than in no. 160, the (in)famous "Marie Antoinette" Grand Complication.
Breguet no. 1160, a modern and exact reproduction of the original no. 160, which is in the Meyer Museum Of Islamic Art, Jerusalem.
This is, I believe, the first date complication of any kind in the Tradition family, which currently also includes a double retrograde chronograph complication, a tourbillon (which is technically not a complication, but a regulating device), a two-time-zone complication, and a simple power reserve model. The essentials of the mechanism are derived, as we've mentioned, from the souscription pocket watches. The movement of the souscription watches is simple in design and layout, and extremely visually attractive.
An original Breguet souscription pocket watch.
The mainspring barrel is located at the center of the movement, and at the other end of the going train is a ruby cylinder escapement (Breguet's ruby cylinder escapements are the exception to the rule that the cylinder escapement is inferior to the lever – they run with much less friction than conventional cylinder escapements and can keep time to within less than a minute's error a day, "without attention, for many years," according to the late George Daniels). There is a single very large central hour hand and no minute hand, but the dial is so large that reading the time to within five minutes can easily be done, and the watches also incorporated temperature compensation, and Breguet's signature pare-chute anti-shock system.
The similarity in architecture between the Tradition 7597 and the souscription watches is immediately apparent; there is the same large, centrally located mainspring barrel as well as a nearly identical going train, with the same two large stepped cocks for the first train wheel and balance, and smaller cocks for the intermediate wheels. Breguet has opted, of course, for a modern lever escapement (there is a part of me that wishes they would do a small series of these with a cylinder escapement – probably a terrible idea, but when you write about the same thing for long enough, your tastes tend to become a little perverse, or at least, mine have). Breguet uses a silicon balance spring with a Breguet overcoil in the Tradition watches – this, to me, is quite an interesting thing to do, if not, hah, slightly perverse, as you don't need an actual overcoil in a silicon balance spring to have the centering benefits of one. You can do things with the geometry of a flat silicon balance spring you cannot do with one made of a Nivarox-type alloy, but in this instance, it's a nod to the Master and a very nice touch, if you ask me. Breguet has even included a modernized version of the pare-chute anti-shock system.
I always feel that a retrograde hand is more dramatic in direct proportion to how long it is – after all, it is more fun to watch the hand jump back if it is a large one sweeping across a wide arc. The retrograde date hand in the 7597 is mounted on the same axis as the center of the mainspring barrel, and it sweeps across almost half the circumference of the dial. A system of driving wheels indexes a snail cam with individual steps in it for each day of the month, and as the snail cam advances, a rack whose tip rests on the cam, and whose teeth engage with the gear on which the date hand is mounted, is gradually lifted higher and higher, advancing the hand. At midnight on the 31st, the tip of the rack drops off the highest step of the snail cam onto the lowest, and the retrograde date hand jumps backwards to the 1st. There is a pusher for quick-setting/correcting the date, at about 10:00.
One of the more intriguing features of the watch is the shape of the hand itself, which is made, like the hour and minute hands, from heat-blued steel. The mechanism for driving the retrograde hand sits fairly low on the dial – under the dial for the time – but in between it and the sector with the date numerals on it, there are a lot of obstacles it has to clear, including the entire going train and the balance and balance cock. To allow the hand to clear the other movement components, it has a fairly dramatic upward step, a little along its length as it emerges from under the dial. The tip of the hand, which has a lume pip on it, bends fairly sharply down again to meet the date sector.
The original souscription watches were all hand-wound (well, key-wound and key-set, I should say), but the Tradition watches are all automatics. The oscillating weight's shape echoes that of the oscillating mass Breguet used in his perpetuelle watches, which were among the first successful self-winding timepieces.
At launch, the watch will be available in pink or white gold, at $37,800 and $38,600, respectively.
I find the Tradition watches in general very charming and also pretty intellectually engaging, as it is always interesting to see how each model balances reflecting the heritage of Breguet's souscription watches while, at the same time, respecting the fact that Breguet himself would have been most interested in modern technical watchmaking solutions (I suspect he would have found silicon fascinating, for instance). The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde looks unusually successful from a design standpoint, for a complicated Tradition watch – the complication is well integrated, and it should be a ton of fun to watch it do its thing at the end of the month. Haute horlogerie at its best instructs, edifies, and amuses in equal measure, and at all three, I think the 7597 succeeds and then some.
The Breguet Tradition 7597 Quantième Rétrograde: cases, pink or white gold, 40mm diameter, welded lugs with screwed-in bars; water resistant to 30 meters. Dial, engine-turned by hand, 18k silvered gold. Movement, Breguet mechanical automatic caliber 505Q, 14½ lignes, running in 45 jewels at 3Hz; 50-hour power reserve. Retrograde date with stepped blued steel hand. Reverse in-line lever escapement with silicon pallets; silicon balance spring with Breguet overcoil; adjusted in six positions. Prices, $38,600 in white gold, $37,800 in pink gold. More at Breguet.com.
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In this week's episode, Jason and James look back on an amazing year for dive watches with a breakdown of several watches that they haven't had a chance to talk about. From Ocean Stars to SUBs, Mokarrans, Supermen, and even Holsteins, it’s hard to remember a better summer for enthusiast dive watches, and the TGN boys wanted to take a few minutes to cover some of those that didn't seem to get their fair share of the limelight.
From the top, Jason has been diving, and James has been working on a new photo setup with some illuminating new gear. Stay in the mix for a bird-themed set of final notes, and please remember to send in your voice memos for the upcoming Q & A episode that will be posted in the coming weeks (subscribe to the feed or you’ll miss it!). Thanks so much for listening.
With Geneva Watch Days underway, Girard-Perregaux has announced two models, the Free Bridge and the Free Bridge Infinity Edition. One model is a standard production watch cased in stainless steel. The other – and the one that we will focus on here – is the Infinity Edition, a steel DLC-coated case, with 18k pink-gold accents throughout, limited to 88 pieces only. This is a distinctly modern timepiece, as evidenced by the case finishing, but with several design cues which pay tribute to the brand's heritage.
Initial Thoughts
The stated intent behind this watch's design is to quite literally bridge the traditional with the modern. In the 1860s, Constant Girard developed a tourbillon pocket watch, which featured three nickel bridges (more on that story here). The design of this watch is meant to pay respect to that three bridge heritage. Both the Free Bridge Infinity Edition and the standard production Free Bridge feature an arrow-shaped "Neo Bridge" that spans the base of the mainplate. Its shape is designed to evoke the brand's oft-used arrow-shaped bridge design, while simultaneously serving as a reinterpretation of contemporary architecture. This idea of modern inspiration stretches to the materials used in the in-house caliber GP01800.
The Three Bridge design as seen on a 19th century Girard-Perregaux pocket watch.
In creating the movement for this modern watch, Girard-Perregaux utilized silicon to make the escapement and parts of the balance wheel. In 2013, the brand created a silicon blade for its prize-winning Constant Escapement. According to GP, the action of the silicon blade flexing backwards and forwards delivers a uniform supply of energy to the escapement, thereby enhancing precision. The brand also says that silicon's low coefficient of friction mitigates both wear and energy consumption.
The watch features what is called a sapphire crystal box, which is distinctively domed. This crystal box requires four to five times more material in order to create the domed shape. Without being able to see it in the metal, I can't really speak to what this design looks like. Beneath the crystal is the inverted movement which allows for a dial-side view of various components, including the balance, the escapement, and the barrel located at the top of the dial. The movement boasts a Côtes de Genève motif, bevelling, sandblasting, and snailing. A feature specific to the Infinity Edition is an 18k pink-gold oscillating weight.
From this angle, you can see the shape and look of the sapphire crystal box.
As mentioned, the Free Bridge Infinity Edition is made of steel but finished with a DLC coating and features a case size of 44mm. The hands are a skeletonized dauphine style, while the markers are suspended above the dial and finished in pink gold, adding to the dimensionality of the overall design.
The watch comes fitted on a leather strap, color-coordinated to the watch via two stitches adjacent to each lug. The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Infinity Edition will be available October 2020.
Diameter: 44mm Thickness: 12.2mm Case Material: Steel with DLC treatment Dial Color: Display of inverted movement Indexes: Pink-gold suspended indexes Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 30m Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap enriched with two prominent stitches adjacent to each lug
The Movement
Caliber: GP01800-1170 Functions: Hours, minutes Diameter: 36.2mm Thickness: 5.94mm Power Reserve: 54 hours Winding: Self-winding mechanical movement with pink-gold oscillating weight Frequency: 4Hz Jewels: 23 Chronometer Certified: No
Gérald Genta's work in the watch world is nothing short of prolific. He's the man behind the design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, of course, but that's just half the story. Genta created his own eponymous label in 1969, and through it, he explored a bevy of designs, one of them being the "Biretro" layout that's been revived in 2020 through the new Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retrograde Sport. The watch is a follow up to the 2019 release of the Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Arena Bi-Retro. Both watches use the arena case, named for its resemblance to an actual arena, and both feature a jumping hour window at 12 o'clock with a minute track along the top half of the dial. On the bottom half, you'll find a date track. Every 60 minutes, the minute hand will snap back to zero as the hour counter rolls over, and the date will snap back every 31 days, all thanks to the BVL 300 caliber inside.
It was in 1996 that Genta first combined the retrograde minutes and a jumping hour counter in a watch. Prior to that, he had designed a number of models released under his own label that featured each complication individually, but never together. These days, the engineering and technical manufacturing required to produce a movement with both jumping hours and retrograde minutes is carried out in Bulgari's facilities in Le Sentier in the Vallée de Joux. Bulgari acquired the original Gérald Genta firm and all its associated designs, patents, and trademarks in 2000. The brand has certainly taken great care to respect Genta's vision, and much restraint has been exercised when it comes to preserving the very specific aesthetic of Biretro watches produced under the original Genta label. The logo has been updated with a font that's modern, but other than that, the design elements remain true to the original watches developed in the '90s.
As the name implies, this Biretro takes a turn towards the sporty with a titanium case and stylized dial design reminiscent of the speedometer on a modern sports car. In the mid-'80s, the Porsche 944 was equipped with gauges that featured a brilliant yellow track against a matte black background for maximum legibility. The Arena Bi-Retrograde Sport also takes advantage of this color combination, but where the Porsche gauge looks relatively mundane, the Genta watch adds an element of stylishness through the use of skeleton hands and a mix of modern sans serif fonts. The watch features a display back, allowing appreciation of the BVL 300. While display backs are certainly common, given the thematic design elements of the Bi-Retrograde Sport, the display back can be likened to automotive manufacturers showcasing the engine of a sports car under a glass panel, typical of many Ferraris, as well as the 2020 Corvette.
There's much to appreciate about the arena case as well. Despite its svelte appearance, it was originally used in the playful Mickey Mouse watches that Genta was famous for. The shape is inspired by the structures in ancient times used to host gladiator shows, called Ludi, where showmen would face off against dangerous animals from faraway lands. The crown design is a signature of Genta's, and even with this sporty treatment, the arena case and biretro dial layout are easily recognizable as a Genta design.
Initial Thoughts
The release of the Arena Bi-Retrograde Sport is particularly exciting because it demonstrates that Bulgari is willing to explore new territory with old Genta designs. It's important to note that while Bulgari bought the Genta firm, it wasn't simply to capitalize on the name of one of the best-known watch designers. With the acquisition in 2000 came the staff and their collective experience, the intellectual property behind the Genta label, and all of the expertise associated with the company. The much-lauded Bulgari Octo Finissimo family couldn't have happened without it.
This particular watch takes the biretro design in a sleek and sporty direction that it feels like it could have taken right from the start. Apart from Genta pieces, retrograde, and more specifically biretro complications, are usually found in watches that appear more austere in design, but in this instance, Bulgari isn't afraid to be adventurous with Mr. Genta's designs, and I think that's exactly how he would have wanted it.
Diameter: 43mm Thickness: 12mm Case Material: Titanium Dial Color: Black and anthracite with yellow accents Indexes: Minutes track (jumping hour counter at 12 o'clock) Lume: Not present. Water Resistance: 100m Strap/Bracelet: Strap, black crocodile
While Girard-Perregaux is known for its mastery of technical horology, the introduction of the 2020 Infinity Editions shows a side of the manufacturer that eschews high complications and next-generation materials in favor of restraint and simplicity. The Infinity Editions include interpretations of historic Girard-Perregaux references from 1945 and 1966. We'll be taking a look at the Vintage 1945 Infinity Edition, a watch inspired by a reference from, you guessed it, 1945.
Not only did 1945 mark the end of the Second World War, but it was also a particularly interesting time in horological design. Precision chronographs had become quite popular, with Longines 13ZN-based watches and a bevy of Gallet models as prime examples that are popular among vintage collectors today. But for many time-only timepieces, the Art Deco style remained popular in the 1940s. It was in 1945 that Girard-Perregaux produced a reference that combined gold and steel in a svelte, rectangular, symmetrical case accentuated by curved lugs.
That single reference gave rise to the entire 1945 family, and Girard-Perregaux has been producing watches in this family with regular frequency, starting with the first iteration in 1995. The family includes the Vintage 1945 Le Corbusier trilogy, the Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon, and the Vintage 1945 Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges.
The latest Infinity Edition includes a black onyx dial, of which Girard-Perregaux's Chief Product Marketing Officer, Clémence Dubois, says, "Delicately shaping the black onyx dials into their respective rectangular and round shapes requires an inordinate amount of skill. It involves no less than 15 meticulous operations spread over a number of months within our Manufacture, endowing each piece with exceptional value."
On top of the Onyx dial, the major focus of the watch is on two complications: The "grande date" display, as Girard-Perregaux calls it, and a moon-phase placed on the top half of the small seconds register. The display utilizes two date discs spaced an impressive 0.1mm apart. The GP03300-1405 caliber inside is wound by a pink-gold rotor that's matched by pink-gold indices.
Visually, there's an interesting detail that recalls the original watch from 1945 that inspired this model. While the indices are pink gold, the hour and minutes hands are rhodium-plated, and the small seconds hand is gold. This interplay of disparate materials was present on the reference that spawned the 1945 family, and it carries through to this new model.
The original reference from 1945.
Initial Thoughts
2020 also saw the release of the Girard-Perregaux Quasar Light, which looks and feels like it could only exist in theory. Seeing it "in the sapphire" means taking a minute to accept that it's a fully functioning watch that's made with modern manufacturing technology – and not technology from decades in the future. This sort of watchmaking is very much in Girard-Perregaux's wheelhouse. They're a maison that's responsible for many firsts, like the Gyromatic HF caliber from the '60s that beats at 36,000 vph all the way to the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges patented in 1884.
The Vintage 1945 Infinity Edition stands on the opposite end of the range of expertise Girard-Perregaux has cultivated over its history. With restrained aesthetics, modest complications, and roots from the beginning of the post-war era, it's a Girard-Perregaux that can fill the role of an everyday wearer. And there's comfort in knowing that it's coming from the same maison that made the Quasar Light. How you do anything isn't necessarily how you do everything in this case, and that's a good thing, because there's something charming about the clean and simple execution of the 1945 Infinity Edition.
Diameter: 36.10mm x 35.25mm Thickness: 11.74mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Onyx black Indexes: Baton-style, pink gold Lume: None present Water Resistance: 30M Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator with black and pink gold-colored stitching
The Movement
Caliber: GP03300-1405 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, large date, moon-phase Diameter: 25.6mm Thickness: 4.9mm Power Reserve: 46 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800vph Jewels: 32
We've done several Editor's Picks already this year, and this latest watch from Ferdinand Berthoud kind of illustrates the issues with picking favorites before the year is actually over (albeit, we've qualified them all with "so far," or at least I think we have). The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE is a watch about which there is a great deal to say, and within which there is a great deal to see, but more than anything else, it is, like its predecessors, a spectacular elevation of mechanics to art, and a demonstration that followed through with a sufficient degree of obsessive concentration, purely technical solutions can transcend the purely technical and become ... well, we'll see what they can become.
If you have been following Ferdinand Berthoud's watchmaking over the last few years, you will have noted some basic similarities across the various models. Generally speaking, the watches have shared a regulator-type layout, with a very large central seconds hand; an octagonal case with oblong portholes in the case band; a smaller sub-dial for the hours and minutes; and in the movement, a fusée and chain (with both a floating fusée cone and mainspring barrel, with no upper bridges) as well as a stopworks mechanism on the mainspring barrel. The watches are complicated although the mechanisms are, if you want to be strict about it, not complications per se, but rather regulating devices (that's for everyone who gave me a hard time about picking a tourbillon for Favorite Complication!), and some of the few actual complications in the watches have been a moon-phase and a power reserve. They have hewed, despite their complexity, to a somewhat austere aesthetic, and this is in tribute to the watchmaker from whom the company takes its name – the famous French chronometer maker, Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1827), of whom the late George Daniels once wrote (perhaps with an eye on the old adage that it takes one to know one) that he had, "a very high opinion of his own work."
Ferdinand Berthoud's Marine Clock no. 6, which underwent sea trials in 1768.
The particular inspiration for the FB 2RE was Berthoud's Marine Clock No. 6. That clock sits in a beautifully made cylindrical case with a gimbal system, and the case and gimbals rest on a base fitted with an anti-shock spring. The clock also has a two-level dial, which was, in turn, the inspiration for the dial for the FB 2RE.
A couple of things jump out at you if you're familiar with Ferdinand Berthoud's previous watches. First, the case is no longer octagonal, but round (although the lateral portholes have been retained). The second is that this is the first Ferdinand Berthoud watch which does not use a regulator layout. Instead, there are conventional hour, minute, and seconds hands, all on the same axis. The dial itself is fairly complex in construction. It's made in two parts – there is a central flat disk, and an outer, domed disk, and both are grand feu enamel over anti-magnetic steel. The rather substantial-looking case (43mm x 14.30mm) is in white or rose gold (I may as well get it out of the way now and mention that it's a limited edition of 10 pieces in each metal, although I don't think anyone would reasonably expect FB to be cranking out dozens of these per day), and its solid, even no-nonsense construction is meant to echo that of the case of the no. 6 sea clock. (I should also mention that the gold for the cases conforms to Chopard's standards for ethically sourced gold; Chopard joined the SBGA (Swiss Better Gold Association) in 2017).
So far, what we have is an obviously extremely well made, very solidly built wristwatch with a finely executed two-level enamel dial, which obviously intends to be taken both as a high-craft object and, in a sense, an old-fashioned practical high-grade chronometer watch as well. In this sense, it reminds me a bit of some of the watchmaking at A. Lange & Söhne, or of 19th and early-20th-century chronometer-grade pocket watches, such as the tourbillon observatory chronometers made by Vacheron in the 1930s. It is when you turn the watch over that the impression is confirmed, and then some.
The movement is the caliber FB-RE.FC, and like the dial and hands, it will immediately seem to Ferdinand Berthoud watchers both very familiar and very novel. One thing that is immediately and notably absent is a tourbillon, which has been a mainstay of Ferdinand Berthoud watches since the brand's first watch in 2015. The familiar elements are the very prominent mainspring barrel and inverted fusée cone. The mainspring barrel has a stopworks fitted to it – now, a stopworks is not something you see in most modern watches; it is a relic of an earlier age when mainsprings were made of carbon steel, rather than the high tech alloys which are nowadays ubiquitous. Such mainsprings did not have the relatively flat torque curves of the mainsprings of today, and as the mainspring unwound towards the end of its power reserve, it would deliver dramatically less torque, with a very deleterious effect on rate stability. The stopworks is intended, as the name implies, to stop the watch before this inferior part of its torque curve is reached, by stopping the mainspring barrel before it has a chance to reach the end of its power reserve.
Ferdinand Berthoud's fusée (left) and mainspring barrel.
The fusée and chain likewise are intended to improve the torque delivery curve of the mainspring. The way in which the fusée works will be familiar to anyone who has ever ridden a multispeed bicycle. To wind the watch, you don't turn the mainspring barrel directly. Instead, you turn the fusée cone, and in doing so, you wind the chain off the mainspring barrel onto the cone. As the mainspring barrel turns, it winds the chain back onto itself, off the fusée. The cone is shaped so that as the mainspring weakens towards the end of its power reserve, it has a gradually greater and greater mechanical advantage. (The mechanism apparently pre-dates its use in clocks; one of the earliest known uses for fusées was in windlasses for winding crossbows).
Generally, fusées are equipped with some sort of maintaining power mechanism inside the cone – this is to ensure the watch or clock in which the fusée is placed will continue to run when the movement is wound up (as the going train is driven by the fusée, winding the chain off the mainspring barrel onto the cone interrupts power flow from the mainspring to the fusée and train wheels, and without some sort of maintaining power, the movement would stop). Together, the stopworks and the fusèe and chain were characteristic of high-precision watches and clocks for much of the history of watchmaking.
While the tourbillon is absent in the caliber FB-RE.FC, there is another regulating device in its place which is perhaps even better thematically aligned with the fusée and stopworks – a remontoire d'égalité. The remontoire is a mechanism which has exactly the same general purpose as the stopworks and the fusée, which is to ensure the delivery of an unvarying amount of torque to the balance over the entire power reserve of the mainspring. There are two basic types of remontoires – one is the gravity remontoire, which is designed for pendulum clocks driven by a falling weight and was invented by the Swiss clockmaker Jost Burgi around 1595. The second type is the spring remontoire, which was invented by John Harrison for his H2 sea clock (and which he also used in the Longitude Prize-winning H4).
Caliber FB-RE.FC.
The basic idea behind the remontoire is fairly straightforward. Instead of having the movement driven directly by the mainspring (or in this case, driven directly by the fusée, and indirectly by the mainspring), you have a second, smaller spiral spring on one of the train wheels. This second spring is periodically wound up by the remontoire, which is powered by the mainspring via the train wheels which precede it in the going train. Theoretically, the remontoire spring can be on any of the going train wheels, although in practice, it's most often on the fourth or escape wheels. Essentially, the remontoire interrupts the direct flow of power from the going train to the escape wheel, and interposes a secondary power source, which is rewound at short enough intervals by the remontoire mechanism to provide what is, for all intents and purposes, a constant and unchanging amount of torque over the entire power reserve.
Remontoire anchor, left; center, rotating ruby triangular cam, for unlocking the remontoire lever. On the escape wheel axis, the three-pronged stop wheel; the spiral remontoire spring is also on the escape wheel axis. Above, the escapement lever, and balance.
Here's how it works: In the caliber FB-RE.FC, the remontoire spring is on the escape wheel, which has fifteen teeth. On the axis of the escape wheel is a triangular, synthetic ruby cam, in the shape of what is known as a Reuleaux triangle. The Reuleaux triangle is named for the German engineer Franz Reuleaux, although it was known – albeit not under that name – much earlier; each edge of the triangle is an arc of a circle whose center is on the opposite vertex of the triangle. The triangle has many possible uses – da Vinci used it as the basis for a map projection – but in mechanics, it is most often used to translate rotary motion into reciprocating (back and forth) linear motion.
In the caliber FB-RE.FC, the triangle rotates as the escape wheel turns; it rotates inside a fork which is moved back and forth as the triangle rotates. As the fork moves back and forth, the remontoire anchor, to which the fork is attached, moves back and forth as well. As the fork moves, it unlocks one of the three prongs of the remontoire stop wheel. In the image, one prong of the stop wheel is resting on the upper pallet of the remontoire anchor. When the remontoire anchor moves far enough, the tip of the prong falls off the upper pallet and the stop wheel rotates – clockwise, in this case – until the tip of the next prong falls onto the lower pallet, preventing the stop wheel from advancing again until the rotation of the ruby cam has moved the remontoire lever far back enough in the opposite direction for it to unlock in turn. The stop wheel is driven on its lower pinion by one of the going train wheels, and every time it snaps forward, it winds up the remontoire spring, keeping it under enough tension to drive the escape wheel, and thus, the lever and balance.
The Gafner-type remontoire in the Derek Pratt wristwatch.
The mechanism is extremely clever and elegant – it was the invention of one Robert Gafner, an instructor during the mid-20th century at the watchmaking school in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and the Gafner system is cited as "prior art" in a number of subsequent remontoire patents. The system was favored by the late Derek Pratt and a company which has recently formed to place his version of the Gafner system into a wristwatch, as reported by HODINKEE's Nick Manousos in July, and the company has an excellent video, showing the action of the remontoire in slow motion. You'll notice that while both the Pratt remontoire and the one in the caliber FB-RE.FC use the Reuleaux triangle, they each use a different configuration for the stop wheel.
The balance of the caliber FB-RE.FC vibrates at 2.5 Hz, and the escape wheel advances 2½ teeth per second. The design is set up so that the remontoire anchor unlocks the stop wheel once for every 2½ escape wheel teeth, which means the stop wheel advances once per second, making this a one-second remontoire. The fact that the stop wheel advances once per second means that it can be used to drive a deadbeat seconds hand, and indeed, the FB-RE.FC features a deadbeat seconds. The driving forces at the stop wheel are fairly low, and in order to reduce the inertial load on the mechanism, the seconds hand is very thin and made of titanium rather than steel.
I find the mechanism absolutely wonderful – it has to be constructed with extreme precision, especially in setting up and controlling the driving force at the last going train wheel and at the remontoire spring; obviously, the ruby cam and other components must be made to absolutely mathematically correct shapes in order to get reliable locking and unlocking. The fact that the remontoire is quite large – as is the balance, with its overcoil balance spring and four inertial weights for fine adjustment to the rate – means that the action of the remontoire should be most dramatic and very satisfying to watch. One is not surprised to hear, after all this, that the watch is certified as a chronometer by the COSC, although it is certainly far from common for makers of high complications to ask for chronometer ratings.
I hate to bring up finish at this point because it sounds almost an afterthought, but it was certainly not an afterthought to the folks at Ferdinand Berthoud. Steel work is either grained or black polished, with beveled polished angles and flanks, and a very high level of hand-finishing is carried throughout the entire movement. Touches like the very graceful, very three-dimensional cock for the escape wheel, remontoire spring, and remontoire stop wheel, with its black-polished cap, make the movement as interesting in its static components as its active ones. The movement plate itself is German silver, frosted with a wire brush. The remontoire components are especially a feast for the eye; all steel components have polished anglage – even the prongs of the remontoire stop wheel.
Assembly: placing the balance cock.
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE is as physically beautiful, intellectually exciting, and emotionally involving a watch as I have ever seen. I find the whole idea of making a watch which incorporates all three major constant force mechanisms enormously engaging – having a fusée and chain, Maltese cross stopworks, and a remontoire all in the same timepiece is so marvelously consistent in its obsessive completeness as to be irresistible, and the fact that all three are basically obsolete, from a practical standpoint, simply sweetens the deal. As George Daniels put it, writing of the remontoire in Watchmaking, it is "quite unnecessary, which merely adds to its charm."
Every once in a while, a watch comes along that makes me wish I'd gone into finance instead of publishing (oh, people tried to warn me), and this is one of those times. I will say, though, even at CHF 210,000, the FB 2RE.2 kind of feels like a bargain, given how much bang you are getting for your horological buck. The whole enterprise is a little fantastic, of course – obviously, with Rolex making a million watches a year rated to ± 2 seconds per day maximum deviation in rate, putting a remontoire, fusée and chain, and a stopworks into a single wristwatch is an exercise in demonstrating craft, not in advancing modern industrial mechanical horology. But if you've gotten this far, I hope you will agree that if you're willing and able to spend this sort of money on a wristwatch, it would be hard to think of one that integrates the sibling arts of traditional horological mechanics and movement design and finishing so well as the Chronomètre FB 2RE.2 from Ferdinand Berthoud.
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE.2: cases, white or pink gold, 44mm 14.30mm, domed sapphire crystal with double antireflective coating. Dial, two-part, grand feu enamel over antimagnetic steel. Minute and hour hands, CVD-blued 18k gold (white-gold model) or 18k pink gold (pink-gold model); seconds hand, CVD-blued titanium. 30 meters water resistance. Movement, caliber FB-RE.FC, German silver plates and bridges; hand-wound, 16½ lignes, running at 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz in 58 jewels; Maltese-cross stopworks on the mainspring barrel, with fusée and 285mm chain, and one-second train remontoire on the escape wheel; deadbeat seconds; 50-hour power reserve. Freesprung balance with Phillips overcoil balance spring, hand-formed; the balance with four adjustable timing weights for fine regulation. Chronometer certified by the COSC. Limited edition of 10 pieces in each metal worldwide; price, CHF 210,000. More at FerdinandBerthoud.ch.
It's with great pleasure and a dash of disbelief that I announce that this week marks my hundredth installment of this column, offering a selection of what's noteworthy and available in the world of vintage watches. In honor of the occasion, this week's roundup is most definitely capable of dropping a few jaws and then some, with picks like a fresh-to-market Omega Chronomètre, a first-execution Favre Leuba, and what many would agree to be the ultimate Paul Newman Daytona in stainless steel. Because you can't just stop there, keep your eyes out for a Submariner worn daily by a painter, plus a Breitling worn by Italian paratroopers.
1967 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512
Unless you're looking for a project, it's always advisable to go for the best condition your budget will allow. The dud might be a few bucks cheaper and easier to stomach, but the well-preserved example is objectively more desirable, thanks to its ability to convey all the original design has to offer. This is an opinion I'll stand behind until I'm old and grey, though exceptional instances call for a different sort of consideration. Though it might defy all common logic of vintage watch collecting, this first pick has much in the way of magic.
We both know you're already familiar with a little old watch called the Submariner, so let's skip to what makes this piece so incredibly charming. Before you go uttering a three-letter, abbreviated expletive, consider the provenance. This example was owned by a painter who wore it daily, explaining why its case, crystal, bezel, and bracelet are speckled with paint. Further personalizing it is the engraving on the caseback, which reads "I LOVE YOU MR BOND, SHARON." To many, combining these two factors with a worn and relumed dial would amount to a gargantuan red flag, but I like to think this one has a unique appeal.
I love the idea of a notable watch that's been worn like it was stolen for the better part of a lifetime, without much regard for resale or heirloom value. Pieces like these obviously aren't the prettiest, and are often far from easy to unload, but there's a humanness to them that the minty fresh example just doesn't afford. Unlike something that's sat in a safe deposit box for decades on end, watches like these have scars that translate to stories, and inseparable ties to those that previously wore them. While I still do advise opting for the best, I'd argue this is a different brand of best.
Sotheby's is offering this Submariner in its latest online sale, which has quite the big catalog. Its estimate has been set at $5,000 to $7,000, which seems fair all things considered.
Omega Chronomètre Ref. 2364
It was with great delight that I found the listing for our next pick of the week, in that it's exactly the sort of eBay listing I dream of and represents the inquisitive spirit of hunting high and low that this column promotes. Well-preserved watch, unknowing seller, the sort of photos that don't cut it but also keep you up at night – you know the drill. Luckily, it also just so happens to be for an incredible watch that seldom surfaces, making the opportunity to own this fresh-to-market example all the more exciting.
You're looking at an Omega Chronomètre corresponding with the reference 2364, which as many will know is a significant piece in the history of both the watchmaker and watchmaking as a whole. The source of its significance is of course the sub-seconds-equipped, 17-jewel, Cal. 30T2RG movement, which was first fitted in this very reference. Omega experienced great success with the caliber in period chronometer competitions and was clearly committed to its excellence, given the ways in which the Cal. 30T2RG would go on to be finished. For my money, the most compelling examples of the reference are cased in stainless steel, proving that tremendous beauty can be yielded from a non-precious metal.
Though the case numbers might not be visible, I'd hazard a guess that this one dates back to 1941. Despite nearing 80 years old, it's aged more than gracefully with only minor wear. This can be seen best upon inspection of its two-tone dial, which seems to be free of flaws aside from a minimal marking inside the sub-dial, and a slight accumulation of particles surrounding the tone dividing ring. Compared to the several yellowed, damaged, and over-polished examples I've seen, this piece has it going on, and it is probably the best I've ever come across.
This Omega is being sold on eBay in an auction that'll come to a close on Saturday evening. At the time of publishing, the high bid stands at $4,949.
Favre Leuba Deep Blue Ref. 59603
Over the years of writing this column, I've been able to handle more of the featured picks in the metal. Whether you're first introduced to an example on the wrist of a fellow collector, or at a dealer's show booth, it's always nice to have prior knowledge of a specific piece before writing it up, for obvious reasons. With this in mind, we're taking a look at an uncommon dive watch I saw not too long ago. It's chock full of unconventional design traits, but in the best way possible, as I'm sure you'll agree.
The last time I saw this watch, the individual offering it was taking delivery, while at a collector's get-together in the pre-pandemic era. Being that sort of event, the watch quickly ended up in my hands, and being the earliest variant of Favre Leuba's Deep Blue, it quickly wowed me. With curved dial script and a small application of text indicating the use of radium luminous compound, it's most definitely a first-execution example of the Ref. 59603, and a good looking one at that.
Overall, this example is in great shape, and while the name on the dial doesn't say Blancpain or that of another more notable dive watch manufacturer, it really is a top-tier dive watch. Its case remains sharp, and its bezel is still legible as ever, without any cracks, but most notable is the sunburst dial finish, which remains brilliant as can be. The only remote flaw is what looks to be a bit of spotting near the logo at 10 o'clock, but that wouldn't be enough to dissuade me from pursuing this one further.
A collector on the Omega Forum has this piece listed with an asking price of $2,975. Additional photos and contact info can be found here.
1969 Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263
When I discuss the vintage watch market with friends who don't wear watches, I'll usually use Rolex to explain the concept of how subtle variations can yield drastically different price points. You can probably imagine the looks on people's faces when you tell them just how much a line of red text costs, which is why the conversation usually ends there. If it were to continue, it'd likely end with mention of the famed "RCO" Paul Newman Daytona, which can be seen as a case study in the perceived value of inconsistencies. It's not every day that an RCO comes up for grabs (In fact, this column looked at the watch back in 2014), which is why this next piece's place in the roundup is more than deserved.
This piece earns its name as a result of the dial printing, which reads "ROLEX COSMOGRAPH OYSTER," instead of "ROLEX OYSTER COSMOGRAPH." Originally intended to be used in pump pusher cases, Rolex would later add the "OYSTER" text upon deciding to case these exotic dials in early examples of the reference 6263. Naturally, this variant is exceedingly rare. How rare you ask? It's estimated that less than 20 are in existence, so it's safe to use that word with this one, and you'd better believe that rarity translates to desirability, given its place at the very top of vintage Daytona collecting.
Condition should be of extreme concern when chasing after a watch along these lines, but luckily, you don't have to worry as this example is just about perfect. Still fitted with its original Mark 1 bezel and tree trunk-like Mark 0 pushers, every last detail on this piece makes sense for the serial range and is known to be associated with the watch based upon past public offerings. As for the dial, which is, of course, the main event here, it's also in outstanding condition and far better than other examples that have surfaced, making this a true grail watch in grail shape. If what you're after is the last word in Daytona collecting, I'd argue this is it.
You'll find this hen's teeth Daytona in the inventory of Wind Vintage. Further details can be found here; its price is available upon request.
Breitling Brigata Paracadutisti Folgore
With the big guns out of the way, I thought we'd wrap up on a bit of a fun note, with a relatively accessible military watch. But it's anything but your average military watch that was potentially worn on a base by an unnamed individual. Oh no, this is quite literally a watch for members of an Italian paratroopers brigade. In other words, it's a Breitling designed to be worn while jumping out of a plane on behalf of your country. I don't know about you, but that sounds pretty cool to me, and if you agree, you'll want to keep reading.
Breitling produced these watches in the 1980s for the Brigata Paracadutisti Folgore, or Paratroopers Brigade Folgore, which is Italian for lightning. These watches were designed to be worn by paratroopers, meaning that they needed to be both functional and legible under demanding circumstances. As a result, it's a bold watch with a wide bezel, making it easily read in less than optimal circumstances. Included with the watch is a handwritten card from the regiment, along with some other regiment documents and materials, suggesting that the circumstances under which it served can be determined.
The only facet I could see someone not being sold on would be the quartz movement that powers this watch, but might I remind you we're talking about a military watch, and one designed to withstand the rigors of jumping out of planes. There's something special about a purpose-built watch, and in this case, the purpose the watch was built for demanded the utmost precision and durability. All this to say, it's a tool watch, and one that was clearly up to the task at hand, in that it's still here and still looking great.
An eBay seller based out of the United Kingdom is offering this piece for £799, which equates to approximately just over $1,000. To make an offer, or claim it as your own, hit the link.
There is something to be appreciated in the classics, in drawing inspiration from that which came before. In that spirit, Girard-Perregaux has released its new 1966 Infinity Edition. This is a relatively thin, 40mm dress watch, in stainless steel, with a dial fashioned from polished black onyx. The brand describes the design of the dial as invoking "the depth of the universe and its infinite mystery," which, honestly, sounds pretty cool. In terms of styling, the 1966 Infinity Edition is meant to capture the essence of a black-tie soirée. That being the case, a watch like this should have a tuxedo thrown into the purchase just for kicks.
Initial Thoughts
The 1966 Infinity Edition is being released in both a 30mm and 40mm sizing. As mentioned, the dial is made from black onyx and fashioned to fit inside the circular shape of the case. The process of shaping the onyx takes 15 operations over a matter of months. I imagine (having not seen the watch in the metal) that this is a dial far better appreciated in person – as most are. There is a certain understated vintage aesthetic to this watch that manifests itself in the minimal dial design, the thin markers, and the serif font for the word Automatic, with the "flat A."
At 40mm, this probably hits the ceiling of acceptable sizing for most when it comes to a dress watch. Adding to its black-tie suitability is its relative thinness at 8.9mm. The dial features rhodium-plated leaf-style hands, pink-gold markers, and a date complication at three o'clock. Now, I know what you're thinking: A dress watch should not have a date complication – it should not even have a seconds hand. Just as I noted in our recent Editors' Picks of our favorite dress watches from this year, that is more a matter of personal preference than a steadfast rule. On the positive side, the date window is set against a black background and pushed more towards the center portion of the dial, allowing for the preservation of symmetry amongst the markers. It's really quite a stealthy complication in that way.
At CHF 9,100, you could get away with slotting this into value proposition territory (as far as dress watches are concerned). Again, one would need to experience the watch in the metal before making such a determination. That notwithstanding, what you have here is a brand with watchmaking heritage creating a simple and effective vintage-inspired dress watch for modern day. The back of the watch features a display caseback allowing clear view of the movement, and a pink-gold oscillating weight specific to this limited edition. The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Infinity Edition comes fitted on a dark leather strap with contrasting stitching. The watch is limited to 188 pieces and will be available only on Mr. Porter.
Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 8.9mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Black Indexes: Pink-gold markers Lume: No Water Resistance: 30m Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator with black and pink-gold-colored stitching
The Movement
Caliber: GP03300-1402 Functions: Hours, minutes, central second, date Diameter: 25.6mm Thickness: 3.36mm Power Reserve: 46 hours Winding: Self-winding Frequency: 4 Hz Jewels: 27 Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 9,100 Availability: September 2020, only on MrPorter.com Limited Edition: Yes, 188 pieces
The Trinity is the second of what promises to be a trio of objects that MB&F and L'Epée 1839 have designated their "Robocreatures" – half robot, half animal – and the company's 13th collaboration more broadly. Chances are you probably know of the two-legged T-Rex, the first in the Robocreatures series.
In the design of the Trinity, we see the number three echoed multiple times: in the creature's three legs, in the three glass magnifying spheres, and in the three levels of the movement. The clock's dial also shows the time in three consecutive 12-hour scales, with the minutes marked off in increments of 15. The display completes its turn once every 36 hours, not every 12, allowing the time to be read through any of the spherical mineral glass "eyes" arrayed above the small scale. An example of how the display looks through one such eye can be seen below. L'Epée's engineers had to calculate the correct balance between the size of the spheres and the distance between the spheres and the display while optimizing legibility and preserving the integrity of the original design. To do that, the spheres, which are suspended from brass arms and held by hands that appear to cradle them, had to be manufactured to within 10 microns.
The idea for the Trinity's delicate, insect-like design originated with a young designer, Maximilian Maertens, who is also credited with the T-Rex. As with the T-Rex, Maertens found inspiration in the 1993 film Jurrasic Park, the first movie he saw as a child. The infamous amber-trapped mosquito from which pre-historic dinosaur life was revived provided the initial spark, and further inspiration came from the water strider, the spindly-limbed insects that one will sometimes encounter effortlessly skating across pools of still water. "It feels much like a levitating insect walking over the water," Maertens says, "and this inspired me to create something that looks very delicate."
The translucent protective body shields, which come in three neon colors, are made from cast acrylic, and it's through these tinged protectors that one is afforded an unobstructed view of the elaborate eight-day clock mechanism at the heart of the Trinity.
Initial Thoughts
I love that the Trinity's displays rely on optical glass, and that from a distance, it's quite possible one wouldn't have the faintest idea that this is a device for telling time. Coming a bit closer, one might see the three scales of numbers and wonder just what this object is all about. It's only after looking into one of the spheres that the time jumps out at you. In this way, Trinity figures to be an object capable of drawing someone in from afar before delivering the payoff in terms of the time. While the delicate limbs certainly recall both the water-walking insect and Jurassic Park's mosquito, the act of peering through the three spheres for the time or through the acrylic shields at the clock movement also feel connected to the fateful mosquito.
While the supplied photos we have here look great, it's been my experience that interacting with these time-telling objects is an experience that doesn't fully translate in two-dimensions. It's difficult to fully grasp the manner in which they rest in space. This is one reason why the M.A.D. Gallery Concept has been so successful.
It's been said many times that nobody really needs a nice watch, or a watch of any kind for that matter. The time is all around us. This definitely applies to an object such as this Trinity, of course. But I'm glad it exists, and that there are people motivated to make such objects.
The Basics
Brand: The MB&F + L’Epée 1839 Model: Trinity
Body Diameter: 30cm Body Height: 26cm Weight: 2.8kg Materials: Plated brass, optical mineral glass, fluorescent acrylic shields Lume: No
The Movement
Caliber: L’Epée 1839 in-house designed and manufactured movement Functions: Hours and minutes via two concentric dials visible from each of the three optical mineral glass spheres. Dials make one full rotation in 36 hours. Power Reserve: Eight days Winding: Manual-winding via double-ended key to set time and wind the movement Frequency: 18,000 vph Jewels: 21
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 22,500 + VAT (approximately $25,000 + tax) Limited Edition: 50 pieces each in neon blue, neon red, and neon green
The latest quartet from Carl F. Bucherer, dubbed the Patravi TravelTec Color Edition Four Seasons, presents four new dial colors to the TravelTec collection. Each represents a different season: green for spring, yellow for summer, orange for autumn, and blue for winter. The watch comes on a rubber strap that matches the dial – and, of course, the season. Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer, said in a statement, "After the past couple of challenging months, we felt it was time to bring some bright colors onto the wrists of watch aficionados around the world."
Carl F. Bucherer's TravelTec model, in various iterations, has been around for 15 years now. The triple time-zone complication has become a staple in the line-up and has contributed largely to the modern identity of Carl F. Bucherer as a well-respected manufacture. It started with Bucherer's TravelGraph model, which employed a modified ETA-2892 to display two time-zones. The brand then set out to produce a watch that offered a third time-zone, and with that came the development of the caliber 1901 that launched in the TravelTec in 2005. The CFB 1901.1, a recent iteration of the same caliber, powers this colorful Four Seasons rendition of the Patravi TravelTec.
Carl F. Bucherer turned to the horological engineering and manufacturing firm Techniques Horlogères Appliquées when developing the caliber 1901, which brought into existence an entirely new decoupling and fast-adjustment module, a point that sets the caliber 1901 apart. And the relationship didn't end there – Carl F. Bucherer actually ended up acquiring Techniques Horlogères Appliquées in 2007.
The bit of engineering responsible for the TravelTec's three time-zone functionality is visible through a cutaway window in the side of the 46.6mm case, providing an interesting view of the movement. Additionally, there's a world time-zone chart engraved in the caseback for easy reference when traveling around the world. A single monopusher allows the wearer to easily cycle both East and West in time.
There's a chronograph function as well, and a built-in date magnifier in the crystal to make the date clearly visible. The crown matches the strap and dial, tying together the seasonal theme.
Initial Thoughts
Carl F. Bucherer was an early innovator in the field of chronograph and GMT complications. The company has been owned by the Bucherer family since 1888. In the press release, Moeri is quoted, saying "The four seasons represent the imperative nature of change; something that Carl F. Bucherer has always embraced, even in this very demanding year with all its obstacles." And I found it particularly optimistic. After all, watches are meant to be an escape from the daily troubles of our time. And a foursome of brightly-colored, seasonally-themed complicated watches is just that.
The Basics
Brand: Carl F. Bucherer Model: Patravi TravelTec Color Edition Four Seasons Reference Number: 00.10620.08.93.01 (Yellow) 00.10620.08.93.03(Orange) 00.10620.08.93.02(Blue) 00.10620.08.53.02(Green)
Diameter: 46.6mm Thickness: 15.5mm Case Material: Stainless Steel Dial Color: Four colors reflective of the seasons Indexes: Applied, baton-style Lume: Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 50m Strap/Bracelet: Color-matched rubber strap
The Movement
Caliber: CFB 1901.1 Functions: Chronograph, three time-zones, date, hour, minute, small seconds Diameter: 28.6mm Thickness: 7.3mm Power Reserve: 42 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800vph Jewels: 39 Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC
Pricing & Availability
Price: $10,900 Availability: Authorized dealers Limited Edition: No
Following the same path of inspiration as models like last year's Heritage Military 1938, Longines has announced a new and very handsome edition to its Heritage lineup in the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale. With a creamy date-free dial, blued steel hands, and a larger-than-vintage-but-still-undersized case, this new Longines may have you looking for a French connection to call your own.
Initial Thoughts
Measuring 38.5mm wide, the Heritage Military Marine Nationale is a modernization of a design that the brand produced for the French Navy after World War II. While the original reference 5774 (compared in the image below) was closer to 33mm in size and employed a hand-wound 12.68N Longines movement, it's not hard to see where Longines got the inspiration. Old or new, the dial lists only the brand name and "Fab. Suisse" (Fab for "Fabrique") – "Swiss made" but with French intentions.
In a world before the dawn of dive watches, this is what the French Navy would have used for water duties, and the 5774 offered a water-resistant design with strong legibility. Fast forward some 70 years, and the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale offers 30-meters water resistance, an anti-reflective crystal, and an automatic movement, all in an otherwise similar form.
Featuring a date-less version of the Longines L888.5 automatic movement, the Heritage Military Marine Nationale has a power reserve of 64 hours. In keeping with its history, this Longines has a solid steel caseback and drilled lugs, though the 19mm lug width is not ideal for those of us with strap-heavy lifestyles.
While I think that, given the original model's aquatic applications, it would have been nice to see more like 100m water resistance, there's certainly no arguing that the Heritage Military Marine Nationale is a really good looking and straightforward design from Longines. Additionally, the inclusion of one of the company's most modern movements along with the reasonable bump up to 38.5mm ensures a thoughtful and easy-wearing re-thinking of a model from the brand's considerable past.
Offered on any strap you like (provided it's the brown calf leather shown in the images), the Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale carries a retail price of $2,000 and looks to be another strong addition to Longines' growing line of vintage-inspired watches.
The Basics
Brand: Longines Model: Heritage Military Marine Nationale Reference Number: L2.833.4.93.2
Diameter: 38.5mm Case Material: Steel Lug width: 19mm Dial Color: Beige Indexes: Painted, Arabic Lume: Super-LumiNova (brown) Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Brown leather with pin buckle
Each week, our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.
The praying mantis is an oddity among insects. It is large, but deliberate and methodical in its movements, generally moving with slow care as it approaches its prey. It only moves with lightninglike speed when it strikes – but when it strikes, there are few prey which can escape its scissor-like talons. its large eyes and mobile head seem to give it an oddly sentient, if not human, character, and if its romantic habits are disturbing, they are perhaps also something to which at least some star-crossed and frustrated lovers can relate. It was therefore with some horror that I discovered that the praying mantis is, for all that it can be anthropomorphized, still a manifestation of that aspect of the world which has been referred to as, "nature, red in tooth and claw." As it turns out, the bigger mantises can catch birds – hummingbirds, to which no one but the most spiteful could wish any ill – and eat them. The really macabre bit is that they generally just eat the brains. Scientific American, reliable as always, has all the wow-this-is-worse-than-a-murder-hornet details.
This is a delightful profile of a diver and treasure hunter named Alec Crawford. Published by The Sunday Post, this story allows a brief look into Crawford's 50-years of salvage diving and a career that netted him an impressive bounty that includes everything from valuable gems to rare whiskey – and so much more. Follow along as Crawford shares his incredible discovery of the RMS Oceanic off of the island Foula and how the wreck would become a literal treasure trove of more than 250 tonnes of parts and pieces just waiting to be brought to the surface. It's a fascinating story from the golden era of diving and, as someone who has done a fair bit of diving myself, I cannot imagine just how difficult it must have been to make a living by salvage diving in the deep, cold, and dark waters surrounding the U.K.
I love going to the movies. There's something magical about the dimming lights, sitting in a giant room with a bunch of strangers, and buckling up for a new, much-anticipated experience (not to mention the rare experience of watching a movie without checking my phone 100 times). This summer, we didn't get the usual experience of big hit movies taking over popular culture, and here, Vox unpacks not only what that means for us in our current moment but also the history of cinema as a common experience. As if I wasn't jonesing for a movie-going experience bad enough already...
– Stephen Pulvirent, Manager of Editorial Products
I love a good opening line. In the case of this piece from the Washington Post, the opener reads, "Seth Goldstein acknowledges he's prone to the occasional fit of 'irrational exuberance.'" I mean, who isn't these days? Goldstein is a retired engineer who has taken to life in quarantine a bit differently than the rest of us (and I don't think I am taking a huge leap in making that statement). The story tracks a recent project, long in the works, but accelerated due to isolation, called the Rube Goldberg Exercise Bike. I'll let you read for yourself to find out just what that entails, but I will say – as the title suggests – that it involves exercise, back scratches, and cookies. For those into engineering, design, or just plain fun, this is a great weekend read.
I love a good long-form crime feature – how can you not? And this Texas Monthly feature story by Katy Vine has it all. From international arms deals and exploding Cessnas, to federal agents and, yes, lots of insurance fraud, this profile of the Texas-based businessman T.R. Wright hits all the notes I look for in an enjoyable weekend read. Vine paints a compelling and in-depth portrait of a young racketeer who, after years of chicanery, believed himself above the law and ended up way over his head. It combines equal parts Point Break and Catch Me If You Can with a dash of Lord of War, and is overall just a solid way to spend 20 minutes on a Saturday afternoon.
Here's something extra special for the slower hours of your Sunday, an in-depth look at the world of split-seconds chronographs. From Universal and Rolex to Breitling and Eberhard, if you like to throw around the term rattrapante in casual conversation, this post is for you.
Exhaustively researched by HODINKEE-alum Ph Zhou, this post was originally published more than four years ago, and it offers an engrossing look at the many variations of this highly technical chronograph complication. Be sure to grab a snack, mute your phone, and dig in.
Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts,Stitcher,Spotify,TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review, and tell us which guests we should have on!
You know that I love having guests on HODINKEE Radio who can't be boiled down to a simple label. And this week's guest is a perfect example of that. Adam Marelli is an artist, a photographer, a builder, a craftsman, a philosopher, and, of course, a watch lover, amongst other things, but he's also a friend and someone with whom I've always enjoyed talking about big ideas and the ways we can find meaning in little things. It was a ton of fun to finally sit down in front of the mic with him and to hear him tell part of his story.
We get into his own artistic and professional practice, the ways in which woodworking and photography relate to one another, what defines "culture" and makes it so difficult to pin down, and the ways in which Zen philosophy helped him find a center. We also dig into one of the questions I get asked more than any other: Are watches art, and can watchmakers be called artists? I think our answers might surprise you.
We hope you enjoy Episode 102 of HODINKEE Radio. Check out the show notes below, and let us know what you think in the comments.
Wrist Check
While Adam's interest in watches originally came from reading Dava Sobel's epic book Longitude: The True Story Of A Lone Genius Who Solved The Greatest Scientific Problem Of His Time and then researching the work of watchmakers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe, he's developed a passion for classic dive watches too. This connects to his love of all things oceanic, and a vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Aqua Lung "No Radiation" is pretty tough to beat when it comes to iconic tool watches. Adam's dates to 1968 and can almost always be seen on a Bond-style NATO, completing the mid-century look.
In 2020, making five-and-six-figure timepieces with unusual materials borrowed from cutting-edge industries feels like the province of a whole segment of haut de gamme watchmaking. So, it's easy to think of Richard Mille as merely the leader of a large pack.
Mille, whose first watches came out in 2001, helped put this category on the map with his Formula One-inspired wristborne racing machines. Though others have followed in his footsteps, channeling the buzz of Richard Mille is easier said than done. Putting lightweight complications on a successive cast of drivers, tennis players, golfers, track stars, and other celebrities has landed Mille enough press make it a luxury brand name that even non-watch enthusiasts have often heard of. Today, we're looking at the latest iteration of what I've come to view as a real Richard Mille classic, the RM 11.
The RM 11 line of chronographs has been around since 2007, at the earlier end of the company's trajectory. It's definitely one of the two or three watches that come to my mind when I hear the name Richard Mille. We've seen several incarnations of this watch over the years, and it's been craftedfromquite a few materials, too. Now, for the first time, we see the RM 11 in grey cermet, a highly durable material with a hardness comparable to diamond; grey cermet's hardness has been measured at 2,360 Vickers, and diamond is 2,400 Vickers. We've seen a cermet RM before, in brown, in a version of the RM052 made for Pharrell Williams.
Cermets are a class of heat-resistant composite materials made from ceramic and a sintered metal. In making a cermet material, one of the objectives is to combine the desirable properties of ceramic, such as high temperature resistance and hardness, with those of a metal. In the case of RM's grey cermet, which was developed in conjunction with the IMI Group, that metal is titanium. From this material, RM can make a highly scratch-resistant watch that also feels light on the wrist despite its imposing dimensions.
Initial Thoughts
This RM 11 looks as futuristic as ever. And though the grey cermet case is the key innovation most worth talking about in the RM 11-05, this is also a pretty serious bit of watchmaking. In addition to being a flyback chronograph with GMT, it's also an annual calendar with displays for the date and the month. From my perspective, this watch combines the most useful of complications, the GMT, with one of the most fun to play with, the chronograph. Add to that the annual calendar, and well, it's much more than your run-of-the-mill sport watch. The RMAC3 automatic movement comes to Richard Mille via the Parmigiani Fleurier / Sandoz-owned movement manufacture Vaucher and features Mille's well-known variable geometry rotor.
Despite the matte characteristic of the grey cermet top bezel, this watch hardly flies under the radar – I mean, this is a Richard Mille after all. Splashes of color are there thanks to the orange and light blue accents found on the dial, the flange, the crown, the pushers, and the strap.
The Basics
Brand: Richard Mille Model: RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT Reference Number: RM 11-05
Diameter: 50 x 42.70mm Thickness: 16.15mm Case Material: Front bezel in grey cermet, caseband in Carbon TPT, and caseback in grade 5 titanium. Crown in grade 5 titanium, microblasted with double-seal O ring and collar in Alcryn. Dial: Made in sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides), protected by 8 silicon braces inserted in the upper and lower flanges grooves. Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 50 meters Strap: Light blue rubber strap integrated with the case shape
The Movement
Caliber: RMAC3 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, GMT, big date, month Diameter: 30.25 x 38.45mm Thickness: 9mm Power Reserve: About 55 hours; 45 hours with chronograph running Winding: Automatic with variable geometry rotor Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz) Jewels: 68
If you have a HODINKEE profile, you may have noticed that a few updates recently rolled out in our community section. For those that haven't signed up before, having a HODINKEE profile grants access to a number of tools that improve the overall HODINKEE experience. Your personal user profile allows you to comment on editorial articles, virtually display your watch collection, and interact with other community members. We launched the original, custom-built community system nearly four years ago, and since then, tens of thousands of watch lovers have officially joined the HODINKEE family.
You can now like and comment on, and interact with, the watch collections of other community members.
Thanks to the tireless efforts of our in-house engineers and designers – the same team that most recently brought you the HODINKEE App for Android – spending time on HODINKEE is now better than ever. In between catching up on the latest watch news, checking out the most recent updates to the HODINKEE Shop, and bingeing this week's episode of My Watch Story, you can now build out your personal watch collection online with more depth than ever before. If there's one thing we know about watch collectors, it's that you're incredibly detail-oriented individuals, and having your entire collection organized and displayed in one place can have massive benefits when deliberating your next potential acquisition.
Each individual watch in your HODINKEE profile can be set for public or private viewing.
Over 55 details can be filled out for each watch added to your personal collection.
The latest update to the HODINKEE App for iOS and Android optimizes the HODINKEE mobile experience.
Here's how it works: Sign in to your HODINKEE profile and navigate to the username dropdown tab on the top right corner of your screen. Then head over to the profile section, where you'll find your watch collection. Now, for some of you, this area might be blank, but if you've ever experimented with the collection feature in its past format, or purchased a watch from the HODINKEE Shop, you should see some familiar watches pop up.
We've streamlined the process of uploading an image of a watch to your collection, which means goodbye to the time-consuming step of emailing a picture of a watch to yourself, from your phone to your computer. You can now upload directly from the HODINKEE app, or you can use your smartphone to scan a QR code from your laptop or personal computer and upload any image instantaneously. You can even have a link texted to your phone, where you're then able to upload images directly to your account. Pretty cool, right?
Uploading an image of a watch to your HODINKEE account has never been easier.
Any watch you end up placing on your profile can be set up for public or private viewing, which allows you to either share your watches with the world or keep them for your eyes only. When setting up each watch, you have the option to fill out multiple pages of product descriptions that range from a watch's lug-to-lug measurement to its complications; in total, there are over 55 optional details for each individual watch. Recording these details accurately is a crucial aspect of the watch collecting hobby, and doing so in your HODINKEE profile should make managing a watch collection more approachable than ever. That means saying farewell to the lengthy spreadsheets of technical information that you've maintained for years – we know you have them, because we've used them too.
Want to keep track of your HODINKEE Shop purchase history? Well, now you can, all in one place, as your HODINKEE profile will automatically update to include any watch you buy from the HODINKEE Shop. Details and ownership information on these watches will immediately populate in your profile, meaning no extra steps are necessary.
If you decide to make your watch collection public, other community members can now like and leave comments on each of your individual watches. These comments can be enabled, closed, or disabled on a per-watch basis, and all comments left on your watches are moderated by you – the watch's owner – exclusively. See a watch you like on someone else's profile? You can now save it to your personal wishlist for future consideration.
Additionally, the comments you leave on editorial articles, or, alternatively, on other members' watch collections, have been redesigned and will now show up on your member profile. Profile settings have also been reformatted to ensure ease of use. And just in case you've accidentally signed up for multiple HODINKEE Shop accounts in the past, you can now link them all together in a single community account.
We've also optimized the mobile HODINKEE experience with the latest update to the HODINKEE iOS and Android apps, which means you can now experience most of the above details, whether at home or on-the-go.
We want HODINKEE to be at the center of your watch collecting hobby, which is why we've worked to make it easier than ever to enjoy on a daily basis. Of course, how you engage with and build your personal HODINKEE profile is entirely up to you, but all it takes is an email to sign-up – so why not try it out? Get started today, right here.
Questions? We've got answers. Suggestions? We'd love to hear them. You can get in touch with us by reaching out to community@hodinkee.com, or clicking here.
Watch news doesn't get much bigger than this. There isn't some world-first complication; a record auction price hasn't been shattered by a celebrity-owned grail; a beloved independent watchmaker hasn't been acquired by one of the big groups. The news is way bigger than that: Rolex has just released a brand new Rolex Submariner.
The watch you see here is the ref. 124060, the newest iteration of the stainless steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner without a date display. The entire Sub line-up has been updated, including a few models in precious metals and variations with the date as well, but this watch is the foundation of it all. It's a new size (41mm), it has a new bracelet (which is a bit wider), and it's powered by a new caliber (the 3230). Otherwise, it's very much a Submariner through and through.
This is what makes Rolex's "new releases" so interesting and different from what most watchmakers do – Rolex has a winning formula and isn't trying to reinvent the wheel here. The temptation to do something crazy must be there, but Rolex's steely resolve wins out, and we end up with iterations on classics that, in general, offer objective quality improvements without messing with the je ne sais quoi of a given model.
The last time the Submariner received an overhaul was back in 2012, with the introduction of the ref. 114060, a no-date companion to 2010's ref. 116610. The 116610 was the first Submariner to use a ceramic Cerachrome bezel insert and to use the broader-lugged "maxi"-style case. The 114060 brought those features to the no-date Sub, and it's been a mainstay in Rolex's collection ever since.
This time around, we're getting an update to the whole Submariner line-up all at once. It's got a new look and feel, a new movement, and a new perspective on what a modern Rolex sport watch can be. Let's dig in.
What Sets It Apart
The most headline-grabbing update to the Submariner is the new case size. The Submariner has measured in at around 39-40mm going back to the 1950s, and this is the first time we've ever seen a 41mm Submariner. Now, you might be asking yourself why Rolex decided to increase the size by a single millimeter, and that would be a totally reasonable question. I can't even begin to venture a guess into Rolex's rationale, but I can say that the difference is slight but noticeable. This is neither an on-paper-only change, nor a monumental shift. The watch looks and feels a tiny bit bigger, but it still feels like a Submariner. This isn't a Sea-Dweller by another name.
If you only looked at that diameter number, you'd be missing some of the finer points of the update. The lugs have gotten slimmer, giving the watch an overall look and profile much more similar to a vintage Sub than to its immediate predecessor. It's a small thing, but I think it makes a huge difference. The choice to pair the watch with a slightly broader Oyster bracelet accentuates this change too – the proportional width of the bracelet to the lugs grows even more, making a much more shapely and contour-rich watch.
The ref. 114060 (left) and the new ref. 124060 (right), side by side.
The new ref. 124060 (right) has slimmer lugs than the ref. 114060 (left).
There is also a slight change of the proportions of the dial and the bezel. I do not have exact measurements from Rolex, so this is all based on my own observations, but the bezel appears to be a bit wider in relation to the dial aperture, which I think gives the watch a slightly bolder look. It's subtle, but so are all of the changes we're talking about here.
As far as actual dial changes go, you have to look really close to spot any. The only outright change is the text at the bottom of the dial. Instead of simply saying "Swiss Made," it now has the Rolex coronet between those two words, and they're positioned at the very bottom of the dial, with the minute markers peeking out above them instead of below them. Across the board, the typefaces used have gotten a bit shorter and wider, with the depth rating and such appearing sturdier and bit more modern. If you look really closely, you'll also see that the minute hand is just a hair longer, as are both sides of the seconds hand. It's almost imperceptible (this isn't like the change to the Explorer's hands), but it's there.
The Caliber
While you can't see it, and many people won't even think to ask about it at their local Rolex AD, the new movement might be the most important change introduced to the Submariner with the ref. 124060. Over the last few years, Rolex has steadily been updating the calibers across all of its watches, often as a part of quiet, but significant changes to models like the Datejust. The introduction of the new caliber 3230 is just that – quiet, but significant.
Getting To Know The Chronergy Escapement
Back in 2016, Jack did a deep dive into the modern Rolex Day-Date 40 and the Caliber 3255 that powers it. There are plenty of beautiful photos of the Day-Date, but Jack also provides tons of technical insight into how the Chronergy escapement works and why it's quietly such a big deal. If you want to really understand the new Sub, this is seriously valuable background reading.
Before we get into the more nitty-gritty technical details, the practical benefits of the 3230 are no joke and are things that your average consumer will likely notice and benefit from. You get a longer 70-hour power reserve (nearly 50% more than the 48 hours offered by the caliber 3130 in the ref. 114060) and Rolex's proprietary Chronergy escapement, which makes for a more efficient and reliable watch over time. This means you still get the -2/+2 precision, you've still got the special Parachrom hairspring, and you've still got the Superlative Chronometer certification, but it also means that you should be able to get that kind of precision out of your Submariner for much longer before it needs a service.
Now, while the caliber 3230 is technically brand new, it is based on the caliber 3235, which debuted at Baselworld 2015 and features a date display. That movement was first used in the Pearlmaster (and premiered alongside the caliber 3255 which has a day-of-the-week display as well for use in the Day-Date), but it has since found its way into the Datejust and Sea-Dweller as well. The 3235 will power the latest generation of Submariner Date watches, and its new no-date cousin will power the non-date Subs. This is the kind of slow-and-steady technical development that feels quintessentially Rolex, and it's good to see Rolex's flagship watch get a current-generation movement.
The Bigger Picture
When I first heard that the Submariner was getting bigger, I was a little concerned. The maxi case already made the ref. 114060 wear like a much bigger watch than earlier Subs, so what would another millimeter do to this classic? I'm happy to report that my concern was for naught. I only got to spend an hour or so with the new Sub, but in that short period of time, I think it won me over. The new case profile, although bigger on paper, wears more comfortably, and I don't think the watch looks that much bigger on the wrist. I think it's probably a better and more helpful characterization to say that the Submariner's case is now different rather than bigger.
Everything You Need To Know About The Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic watches of all time, having gone through dozens of iterations since its 1953 release. In Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner, we dissect the Sub and the subtle details that make each version unique.
Within the broader line-up, this fills a hole in Rolex's collection of Professional series dive watches. Rolex now offers a 40mm Yacht-Master, this new 41mm Submariner, a 42mm Yacht-Master, a 43mm Sea-Dweller, and a 44mm Deepsea (as well as one outlier – a 37mm Yacht-Master in precious metals). This means that you could, in theory, walk into a Rolex AD and get yourself some variation of a Rolex diver anywhere in the 40-44mm range, with a variety of metal, dial, and bezel configurations. Like all Rolex sport watches, this new Sub is likely to be tough to get, and the idea of walking into a Rolex dealer and having your pick of a bunch of in-stock options is pure fantasy, but that's another story entirely.
In the same way that Rolex rolled out the latest generation of Chronergy-equipped movements over the last five years, it will be interesting to see if this new approach to the Professional case and bracelet make their way into other models. Honestly, it would surprise me if it didn't. Rolex doesn't do anything in a vacuum. Might the next GMT-Master feature slimmer lugs? Or will the next Explorer have a different style of Oyster bracelet? Only time will tell, but moving the Submariner off the maxi case is a bellwether, if I ever saw one.
For many people around the world, the Rolex Submariner is the platonic ideal of the "nice watch." It's what people think of when you say the word "watch" in many cases. The often-overused word "iconic" doesn't even begin to do the Submariner justice, so any changes to it are a big deal. In classic Rolex fashion, the Geneva-based watchmaker has opted to whisper instead of shout, giving the Submariner substantive upgrades that won't have fans of the Sub shouting for the good old days. The 40mm Sub is dead. Long live the 41mm Sub.
Diameter: 41mm Case Material: Oystersteel Dial Color: Black lacquer Indexes: Luminous circles, rectangles, and triangles Lume: Yes, on hour markers, hands, and bezel pearl Water Resistance: 300 meters (1,000 feet) Strap/Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock folding clasp and Glidelock extension system
