When it comes to items that make for a show-stopping holiday gift, none are quite as perfect as a wristwatch. It's functional, beautiful, thoughtful, and timeless. Anyone – from the toughest to please to the person who has everything – can appreciate a timepiece. Yet, for that truly special someone, not just any watch will do. Whether shopping for that collector with an expansive range of watches or that person who really appreciates a wow-factor, you need more than your average timepiece. You need something exceptional, and when it comes to exceptional watchmaking in the 21st century, no one has set the bar quite as high as BVLGARI.
BVLGARI began as a jewelry business in the late 19th century, and it wouldn't be until the late 20th century that it would begin making waves in the world of watchmaking. The brand's first timepiece came in 1977 with the now-iconic BVLGARI BVLGARI, designed by the legendary Gérald Genta. In the years to follow, BVLGARI would go on to solidify its place beyond the watch world and in pop culture on the wrist of Al Pacino in the critically acclaimed 1995 film Heat.
In just over four decades of watchmaking, the horological achievements BVLGARI has notched are pretty remarkable, and the watch community has taken notice. The brand lays claim to the world's thinnest tourbillon movement, minute repeater, chronograph, and automatic watch. In the past two years alone, BVLGARI has received accolades at the prestigious GPHG awards for the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT in the chronograph category and the Aluminium Chronograph for the iconic watch prize. Beyond the industry at large, you can find BVLGARI watches on the wrists of some of the most seasoned and serious collectors around the world, collectors who have a keen eye for models that defy trends and offer the highest level of craftsmanship. If you're looking for that extraordinary gift for the watch lover in your life, you'll be hard-pressed to find a more enticing or influential timepiece than one of BVLGARI's latest offerings.
The Octo Finissimo Automatic
The Octo Finissimo Automatic is more than just an aesthetic update for BVLGARI's ultra-thin flagship model. It's the first watch in the Octo Finissimo line to offer water-resistance up to 100 meters. They achieve this by the addition of a screw-down crown, which is a first for the collection. The case of the new Octo Finissimo Automatic is the same diameter as its predecessors at 40mm, but there's a slight increase in thickness – only by a little over a single millimeter, from 5.15mm in the original Octo Finissimo Automatic to just 6.4mm in the Satin-Polished Steel variant – an increase that's just about the same thickness as a credit card. The gradient finish of the black dial juxtaposes nicely with the rest of the steel case as well as the silver-tone hands and hour markers. In addition, the dial shares the same layout with the previous Octo Finissimo Automatic models. That means stylized Arabic numerals at six and 12 o'clock, with polished and rhodium-plated markers for the rest of the hours. An open small seconds display is located near seven o'clock, and all three hands are polished and faceted.
The BVL 138 movement at the heart of the new Octo Finissimo Automatic is the same ultra-thin caliber found in each iteration of the watch. A record-breaker upon its 2017 debut, the BVL 138 has a remarkable 2.2mm height and 36.6mm diameter. Though the watch is steel on the outside, the micro-rotor that powers the Octo Finissimo Automatic is made from a solid block of platinum, winds bi-directionally, and offers an impressive 60-hour power reserve. The BVL 138 alleviates any concern of fragility through the presence of a full balance bridge, which increases the stability of the balance and enhances the watch's overall impact resistance. Other elements that help in this regard include Kif shock absorption and a larger-than-usual escape wheel bridge. This is a high-performance movement executed at the highest level.
The Aluminium Chronograph
The BVLGARI Aluminium collection pays tribute to a watch first released by the brand in 1998 that integrated classic BVLGARI design elements with an aluminum case, rubber strap, and quartz movement. While these experimental materials have become increasingly commonplace in more recent years, presenting a non-precious metal watch on a rubber strap was still pretty revolutionary in the luxury watch space in the 1990s. This enduring design remains a centerpiece within both the watch community and the BVLGARI brand over 20 years later, as acknowledged by the GPHG's award for the iconic watch prize.
The BVLGARI Aluminium Chronograph has a round 40mm case made of lightweight aluminum paired with a titanium caseback along with a rubber bezel and strap. This incredibly unique combination of metals and materials carries over from the brand's original watches. The rubber bezel has the incised, double "BVLGARI" branding that has characterized the look of countless BVLGARI watches since the 1970s, like the original BVLGARI BVLGARI. In addition, the aluminum material is cool to the touch and light on the wrist, and its execution here is matte and modest.
The caseback is made of equally lightweight titanium, and it, along with the crown and chronograph pushers, have undergone a DLC treatment. The rubber strap integrates directly into the redesigned chassis of the lugs, and two aluminum links are incorporated into both sides of the strap to help the watch better articulate around the wrist. An ardillon buckle, also made of aluminum, ensures a comfortable fit. This chronograph retains visual symmetry on its off-white dial, which features three rounded sub-dials with radial numerals that complement the surrounding BVLGARI verbiage on the rubber bezel. Black accents on the sub-dials, hands, and hour markers/numerals help the dial information stand out, while a white date aperture is tucked cleanly at the 4:30 position. The BVLGARI Aluminium Chronograph is powered by an automatic movement and tested to 100 meters of water resistance, more than enough for daily wear.
The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is the world's thinnest chronograph caliber, regardless of automatic or manual winding. It features a titanium case that's completely matte, with no polished or shiny surfaces. The overall greyness of the titanium offers a versatile look that complements the sculptural form of the Octo Finissimo's case, which is full of step-like facets, straight lines, and layered angles that seamlessly transition across the bezel and on top of the lugs. This is partly where the Octo name comes from, as the interior flange of the watch surrounding the dial is defined by its eight sides. Despite a wafer-like thinness and low-key profile, the Octo Finissimo features a three-dimensional wearing experience thanks to the countless number of facets spread out across the case, bezel, and lugs. In addition, the titanium crown features a black ceramic cabochon.
The watch comes paired with the Octo Finissimo bracelet in matching sandblasted titanium. Designed to seamlessly integrate into the unique case construction, the bracelet stretches almost the entire width of the case at its point of connection before gradually tapering until it reaches the folding clasp. BVLGARI specifically engineered this unique clasp to fold neatly into the back of the links in an effort to reduce the total thickness on the wrist. Inside the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, you'll find the same BVL 138 caliber housed in the Octo Finissimo Automatic.
Explore The BVLGARI Collection In The HODINKEE Shop
Between the time-only Octo Finissimo Automatic, Aluminium Chronograph, and Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, there's a watch for any type of collector in your life. No matter which model best resonates and appeals to you, you know you're getting one of the most elevated and proficient watches on the market. The sheer attention to aesthetic detail and the significance in the history of watchmaking speak for themselves with all of these models. To explore each of these watches in full and make one your own this season, head over to the HODINKEE Shop now.
Each week, our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.
For a lot of my childhood and adolescence, I was living in rural or semi-rural areas, and "old" meant something maybe a century or two old. When I went away to college, my roommate freshman year was a guy who'd gone to an English public school which had two gates; the "new gate" was from the mid-1400s. In Japan, tradition and longevity are reverenced, but they can also make businesses surprisingly resilient. Ichiwa, in Kyoto, sells one thing: mochi (Japanese rice cakes) which are served one way (grilled) with one sauce (sweet white miso), and for drinks, you can have your choice of any kind of tea as long as it's green. Doing one thing and doing it well, it seems, can really pay off, and the risk-averse, cash-accumulating practices of Japan's shinise (traditionally run, centuries-old companies) insulate them well against the vagaries of fate. As a friend of mine was told by his dad when he started his first company, "Remember, son, nobody ever went out of business taking a profit."
I'm not a superstitious person myself, but I am a committed creature of habit who loves his daily rituals and is deeply fascinated by other people's superstitions and fixations. Enter this story from ArtNet News all about auctioneers, their cherished gavels, and the things they do to ensure good results before a sale. To make things even better, a certain someone who you'll all likely recognize sits right at the top of the list.
– Stephen Pulvirent, Manager of Editorial Products
I’m a bit late to the game (and by a bit, I mean two years late), but while I was binging Broken Bell videos on YouTube, I happened across their performance for La Blogothèque. La Blogothèque is a music channel dedicated to creating memorable performances in innovative ways. Sound On Sound takes a deep dive into one of La Blogothèque's most ambitious and complicated music videos, Justin Timberlake's "Say Something," shot in one take and recorded live. As someone who worked in live television for an extensive period of time, the difficulties and technical prowess it takes to film something of this scale are remarkable, and they do it all while managing to capture it in their own artistic light. If you liked this, make sure to check out their video for Maggie Rogers’ "Lights On."
This past week, news broke that Warner Bros. plans to release its entire 2021 slate (including the forthcoming 2020 film, Wonder Woman 1984) on HBO Max concurrently with a theatrical run. Upon hearing this, I was immediately struck with the feeling that this was the final nail in the coffin for movie theaters. I have since come around on that, and took comfort in this article I read by Washington Post chief film critic Ann Hornaday. In this piece, she makes a strong case for why the movie theater experience is not obsolete, and why – despite obvious hardships – it still has a future. The article walks through the plight of movie houses in 2020, and even draws comparisons between our reality and the Pixar film, WALL*E. If you're feeling down on the future of cinema, give this a read.
Music is something that can be utterly transporting when deployed correctly. You can hear a particular song and be instantly reminded of a night long ago, when you were younger and your problems were so much simpler. Radiooooo.com (five Os, keep in mind) was built on this concept, calling itself a "Musical Time Machine" capable of taking you anywhere in the world at any time. Pick a country and a decade on its intuitive world map to hear music that hails from that locale and that time period; let your imagination run wild with what it might have been like to live there at that time. Do you love the slick vibes of 1980s America? There's a station for that. Wanting to learn what folks in Russia were listening to in the 1950s? You can do that too. Or, if you're a boring cliché like myself, you can pop on the 1960s France station, put your feet up, and waste the weekend away.
We are (obviously) huge fans of Seiko here at HODINKEE, and that includes everything from a Seiko5 through the new Prospex divers, to the unmatched fit and finish of Grand Seiko, and of course, Credor. Seiko Credor functions as the brand's ultra-high-end line and, for fans of aesthetic simplicity crossed with hand-craft haute horology, Credor first offered the Eichi and, in 2014, announced the incredible and minimalist Eichi II.
For the full story on the gorgeous and very special Eichi II, hit the link below for a lovely In-Depth from our own Jack Forster that was originally published back in 2017. Jack gets into the nitty-gritty (it's what he does) of the Eichi story while uncovering an array of special details that speak to what makes Credor, and certainly the Eichi line, just so special.
We're coming down to the wire with the holidays quickly approaching, and if you're like us, you still need to find that perfect gift (or two) for your nearest and dearest. Here in the HODINKEE Shop, it's been a busy few months, and we've been hard at work to bring you the best possible selection of watches, straps, books, and travel accessories out there. Our team couldn't be more excited about what we have to offer this holiday season, including two new products launching today – the latest additions to G-SHOCK's GA2100 "Casioak" line and four new styles of our popular Springs + Gears prints – both of which are highlighted in this guide. So, if you need some help finding the gift that's just right for your special someone, check out what we have to say about these and more of our favorite products.
As a quick reminder, the HODINKEE Shop is an authorized retailer of all the watch brands we carry, so you can be confident in your purchase. Each new watch comes with free shipping and returns, a complimentary extended year warranty, and digital paperwork storage. Read on to find out what some of our team members have their eyes on for themselves, or head over to the HODINKEE Shop right now to pick something out for yourself.
S.T. Dupont Lighter For HODINKEE
Andy Yang, VP, Commercial
Many moons ago, when I was just fresh out of college, I was completely mesmerized by the idea of becoming a discerning gentleman. Watches, tailored suits, and Scotch whisky quickly found their way into my life. On this journey, a mentor began to teach me about his appreciation for cigars and the world of beautifully crafted accessories around it. One of these accessories that stood out was an S.T. Dupont lighter; there is something elegant about the way it looks and feels in your hand. The Ligne2 lighter here is a limited edition collaboration with S.T. Dupont, finished in Palladium, and lacquered in the HODINKEE grey. Each comes with special archival Dupont packaging and that famous "ping" sound when you flick the lighter open. A perfect gift for that distinguished person in your life.
Hamilton Intra-Matic 'Champagne'
Saori Omura, Senior Manager, HODINKEE Shop
It's a feat to bring any vintage watch design into a compelling modern package without ruining the proportions or the aesthetics of what it's meant to be. This Hamilton Intra-Matic "Champagne" dial was a collaboration piece with Hamilton, staying true to the design ethos from that era, and at the same time, making it seamlessly belong in Hamilton's current catalog. The dial design is minimalistic at a glance. But if you look closer, you will notice some of the clever, subtle details we wanted to have represented in this piece. The elongated hour makers are actually sunken with a pop of silver peeking through, not painted or applied on the surface as is more common. In keeping a harmonious look with the special hour markers, the svelte silver-tone baton hands were chosen for this watch. The shimmery champagne color of the dial leans slightly coppery rosé, which we opted for as an homage to the great vintage salmon-colored dials. This classic watch has a nice balance of masculine and feminine elements, which makes it a perfect gift option with a lot of versatility.
A Man And His Watch
Stephen Pulvirent, Manager of Editorial Products
It's easy to get tied up in the details of a watch's movement or the minutiae that sets a special collectible model apart from a more pedestrian variant. But that's only a small sliver of what watches have to offer. With his book "A Man And His Watch," Matt Hranek does an outstanding job pushing beyond all of that stuff and getting right to the heart of the matter – what a watch can mean to its owner, the memories it can carry, and the legacy it can help cement. Filled with stories of watches owned by the likes of Ralph Lauren, Paul Newman, Sir Edmund Hillary, Sylvester Stallone, (and our own Ben Clymer), "A Man And His Watch" combines first-person storytelling with incredible photography that really brings the watches to life. This is both a must-read book for anyone who loves watches and a great way to get your watch-curious friend to fall in love with all things horological.
Bang & Olufsen Beoplay E6
TanTan Wang, Merchandising Assistant
As a headphone junkie and self-proclaimed techie, I've always appreciated Bang & Olufsen's products for their intersection between beauty and function. The Beoplay E6 earphones are the perfect example of that, taking cues from the sneaker scene with its unique and modern materials while still maintaining Bang & Olufsen's iconic build quality that I've appreciated over the years. Most importantly, the portability of the design does not sacrifice anything in the sound department. Putting these on is just, well, music to your ears. You'll find a rich and dynamic sound signature, with excellent bass response, and a very intuitive EQ available on your smartphone to fine-tune the E6 to your taste. Whether this is your first or fifth Bang & Olufsen set, you're in for an absolute treat.
Mido Ocean Star Tribute
Kaitlin Koch, Marketing Associate
What initially drew me to this watch were the 1960s vibes conjured by the combination of the bright lollipop seconds hand and mod colorway; it's simply very chic and fun. And having bought my first Mido earlier this year, I can attest to the wearability of the tapered lugs. These make the already well-sized (40.5mm) case even more comfortable, especially for those of us that enjoy a sturdy sport watch but don't have a large wrist. The day/date window also evokes a retro charm for me, recalling a time when the functionality played an integral role in day-to-day life. While I can appreciate the simplicity of a time-only watch, I've never been one to shy away from a date or day/date feature and have found them especially helpful this year to keep track of my schedule while saving me from at least a few glances of my phone.
Victorinox For HODINKEE Swiss Army Knife
Sarah Reid, Advertising Manager
You'd be hard-pressed to find a desk, bedside table, or junk drawer in our house that isn't home to at least one Swiss Army knife. Literally a jack of all trades, the HODINKEE Swiss Army Knife allows you to feel prepared for anything – even the emergency removal of a watch caseback. With a heritage that surpasses even some of our favorite watch brands, the Swiss Army Knife is a gift that will resonate with both young and old lovers of fine tools.
HODINKEE Magazine
Chelsea Beeler, Operations Specialist
Now in its seventh volume, HODINKEE Magazine explores the world of horology – and its tangential industries – through a wide lens, making watches accessible to a greater audience than ever before. Previous features include the thrilling saga of Paul Newman's Paul Newman; an in-depth look at one of the world's most rare and beautiful Italian sports cars; compelling collector interviews with Jony Ive, Ronnie Fieg, and Mario Carbone (to name a few); and a stunning photoshoot showcasing seven accomplished women from different walks of life. While the features range in subject, exemplary storytelling and outstanding photography are constant. Whether you're looking to bring newcomers into the fold or supplement a horological veteran's collection with a volume they may have missed, HODINKEE Magazine is the perfect guide for navigating the vast and exciting world of horology this holiday season, and right now, when you buy three or more, you get 15% off by using the code HMAG15 at checkout.
Embassy Pen
Aileen McBride, Director of E-Commerce
Have you ever picked up a pen and then been so offended by the lack of weight in your hand that you dropped it, absolutely disgusted by its flimsiness? Well, friend, I'm about to solve all your problems. Meet the Embassy Pen, whose weight, construction, and design demand to be appreciated. Like you, this pen is versatile, sleek, and occasionally confiscated by TSA. The Space Pen Cartridge makes writing underwater or in zero gravity a breeze (hey, you never know!). This pen was destined to initial important documents, doodle in notebook margins, sign obligatory holiday cards, and still survive the countless test runs that I would put it through, desperate to find an orientation that would make the pen fail to write (spoiler: It would never fail).
G-SHOCK GA2110ET-2A "Casioak" In Blue
Cait Bazemore, Editor, HODINKEE Shop
I didn't consider myself a watch enthusiast until adulthood, but I remember the year I asked for a G-SHOCK Baby-G for the holidays. It was bold, colorful, and playful – it ticked all the boxes my little-girl heart desired in an accessory. As I grew and, in turn, my taste in watches grew with me, G-SHOCK admittedly fell off my radar. Instead, I got swept away by glitzy, high-profile models (models I could likely never afford), like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (my ultimate grail watch). Then, I discovered G-SHOCK's GA2100 "Casioak" line – it was the best of both worlds. The hopelessly nostalgic part of me loves the G-SHOCK DNA that shines through in each of their watches, and the unconventional, geometric build of the "Casioak" offers that unusual yet instantly eye-catching appeal I appreciate in models like the Royal Oak, from which the "Casioak" gets its clever nickname. Whether you're shopping for a die-hard G-SHOCK collector, someone's first watch, or that particularly sentimental person on your list, the G-SHOCK GA2110ET-2A "Casioak" in Blue fits the bill.
HODINKEE Spring Bar Tool
James Stacey, Senior Writer
In my line of work, one tends to go through spring bar tools like toothpicks, and most seem to be made to last about as long as a tiny sliver of wood. But not all. A few years ago, I picked up a HODINKEE Spring Bar Tool, and it has been in my kit ever since. Small enough for a bag or a permanent spot on your desk, the trick here is that the tool comes with a cap to cover each end (one for a spring bar fork and one for a pin-pusher tip). So when you're not using the tool, it can be covered and tucked into its leather holster, not scratching whatever else is in the same bag or leaving you with the occasionally lost tip right when your next strap change is at hand. It's an elegant solution to a common problem – what more can you ask of a simple tool?
Valet Trays
Brandon Frazin, Vintage Manager
I am a big fan of valet and catch-all trays in general, and the leather ones we offer in the Shop really do the trick. I personally use these leather trays at home and in the office. I have one on my work desk and a couple on my dresser. The nice thing about our large-size ones is that they snap together and can go completely flat, which is perfect for traveling. I don't know about you, but when I used to travel more, I always tried to travel with something like this. If you know me, you know I love organization. These beautiful leather trays fit the bill and allow me to organize my life (or at least try). In addition, they tend to age nicely and develop a nice worn look.
Watches: A Guide By HODINKEE
Pedro Vidal, Insurance Associate
Whether you’re just starting off on your own watch journey or a seasoned collector, Watches: A Guide By HODINKEE is an essential addition to your horological library while also looking right at home on your coffee table. Spanning the history of watches, each chapter is written by a different HODINKEE editor and explores all types of watches and their purposes. This book is truly a trusty guide through and through, offering historical context and cultural insight on everything from dive and pilot watches to racing and dress watches – not to mention the stellar close-up photography and crisp images.
Massena LAB Uni-Racer
Jeff Hilliard, Retail Director
I'm a big furniture nut and, like watches, authenticity is key when searching for pieces, whether vintage or modern. In furniture, there is almost always something lost in non-authorized reproductions that attempt to recapture the essence of the original design. Think Eames chairs, Noguchi tables, and Jeanneret chairs. While it's easy to capture the overall look of these iconic designs, what's lost is the "soul" of the product – the hours and hours of research and design that was poured into them over years. While the Massena LAB's Uni-Racer Chronograph is, in fact, a tribute to the all-time classic 1960s original, very little feels lost. After handling this watch in the metal, it becomes extremely clear Massena LAB did their homework. From the case design all the way down to the lume placement and the engraved Massena LAB "M" on the crystal, the details are all there in the most faithful way possible. And if you can't geek out about the watch's details with the lucky person receiving it, then maybe you should just keep it for yourself? Now, there's a holiday gifting idea I can get behind.
Springs + Gears Prints
Ben Nunn, Category Manager, Modern Watches
It's no wonder why many collectors love an exhibition caseback; movements are simply cool to look at, and the attention to detail for each of these iconic calibers is highlighted by the depth that comes with letterpress printing. Watch enthusiasts can appreciate both the intricate mechanical design, as well as the tactile quality of the artwork, and since they have a pretty timeless look overall, they're versatile in terms of placement in your home or office. Say the collector in your life has a beloved El Primero but is super picky when it comes to straps – this is the perfect way to honor their favorite watch but removes the guesswork that goes with matching a style or fit.
These single-watch pouches are some of my favorite accessories available in the HODINKEE Shop. I have at least one on me at all times – they're the perfect grab-and-go protection for my watches, and I never regret having one (or three) on hand for daily use or short trips. Perhaps my favorite thing about these pouches, though, is their versatility; they safely store watches, jewelry, and other small trinkets. Each pouch also comes with a small leather rectangle to place between the caseback and the strap/bracelet to protect against scratches in transit.
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Skin 'Blue'
Cole Pennington, Editor
Watches don't always need to be so serious. In fact, the further into the world of horology you go, the more attractive and refreshing a "fun" watch becomes. To me, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Skin 'Blue' is a great example of a watch that's just plain fun and doesn't take itself too seriously. The orange-and-blue lume backs that notion up. Zodiac has plenty of legitimate history and carved out a niche in the '60s concerning adventure and aquatic pursuits. This watch, to me, is like a good pair of board shorts. You wear them having a beer on the beach or on a dive five fathoms deep.
The Reid Watch Strap In Olive Green
Danis Cespedes, Customer Experience Associate
Here at HODINKEE, we have taken a huge liking to the gold watch on a green strap combination, and I must say, it has won me over as well. In late 2019, my dad showed me an heirloom he received from my late grandfather for the first time: a Longines Five Star Admiral in 18k gold. I was so excited, yet so confused as to why my father had not worn it before. However, after looking at the stiff, disheveled strap, I knew why. For this Christmas, I figured the best thing I can give my father is a brand new watch, without breaking the bank, by investing in a new strap! We all have to agree that, sometimes, all it takes is a change of the strap to feel like you have a brand new watch. The Reid Watch Strap in Olive Green is one of our most versatile and flexible straps. The soft French goat leather and pebbled finish will brighten up a watch's wear, and it is a wonderful pop of color without straying too far from the neutral tones. Throw in a Silver Spring Bar Tool, and you'll have the perfect, simple gift that will age well over time.
Still Looking For The Perfect Gift?
This gift guide only delves into a handful of what the HODINKEE Shop has to offer. To take a closer look at our full selection of products, head over to the Shop. No matter who you're shopping for this holiday season, we're sure you'll find something worth sharing with your watch-collecting loved ones (or yourself!). And if you're still not quite sure what to get, it's hard to go wrong with a HODINKEE Shop gift card, a HODINKEE magazine subscription, a membership to the Horological Society of New York, or a Virtual Horological Tutoring Class from our friends at the HSNY.
The Saxonia Thin is the most basic watch A. Lange & Söhne makes, but this is certainly not the most basic version of that watch. This new limited edition takes the two-hand dress watch and elevates it to another level. The 40mm white-gold case houses a dial made of solid silver coated with something called "black gold flux," which is a type of glass filled with specks of copper to make it sparkle. The technique dates back about four centuries, and we first saw it used by Lange back in 2018 in this similar Saxonia Thin, albeit in a deep blue shade.
Importantly, the watch is still powered by the caliber L093.1, the in-house time-only movement that's been the Thin's foundation for years. This is a true high-end movement, with German silver plates, beautiful hand-finishing throughout, screwed gold chatons for a few of the jewels, and the balance cock engraving you'll find on all of Lange's other movements. Yes, this is more affordable than a Datograph, but it's made with exactly the same care and attention to detail.
This Saxonia Thin is limited to 50 pieces, is priced at $25,800, and is available exclusively through A. Lange & Söhne boutiques.
The dial has a glassy surface with colorful specks of co
Initial Thoughts
I'm on the record as a devotée of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin. Multiple times, actually. The most basic watch from one of the world's great watchmakers delivers everything it promises and more, and it does so at a price that's pretty competitive in the marketplace too. I think that when you put the Saxonia head-to-head with any time-only or time-and-date watch from a major brand, it stands out as a complete package: It wears great on the wrist and has excellent proportions; the movement inside is a true high-end movement with tons of hand-finishing; it looks just distinctive enough to have some personality while still being classic and a worthy long-haul investment.
This latest iteration is no different. But while I think the standard silver-dialed Saxonia Thin models are perfect everyday watches, looking just as good with a t-shirt and jeans as they do with a suit, this one is definitely dressy and a bit more niche. It's simple, but sumptuous. The white-gold case and sparkling black dial give it that, "If you serve me anything other than champagne or neat whisky, I’m walking out" vibe. But there's a time and place for that. And when it's that time, and you're in that place, I really don't think there's a better watch to reach for than this one.
The Saxonia Thin 40mm with black gold flux dial.
To that point, I think this limited edition should have been based on the smaller, 37mm Saxonia Thin. This is a proper dress watch, and it should have those proportions. The 40mm isn't massive by any means, but for my money, a formal watch like this should be sub-38mm. It's my one gripe, but it's a real one. Come at me in the comments if you disagree.
It doesn't get much dressier than this.
The Basics
Brand: A. Lange & Söhne Model: Saxonia Thin Reference Number: 211.087
Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 6.2mm Case Material: White gold Dial Color: Black gold flux Indexes: Batons Lume: None Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Shiny black leather strap with 18k white-gold prong buckle
The Caliber L093.1 is German silver and features traditional finishing throughout.
The Movement
Caliber: L093.1 Functions: Hours and minutes Diameter: 28mm Thickness: 2.9mm Power Reserve: 72 hours Winding: Hand-wound Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph) Jewels: 21 (3 in screwed gold chatons) Total Components: 167
Pricing & Availability
Price: $25,800 Availability: Now, exclusively at A. Lange & Söhne boutiques Limited Edition: 50 pieces
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Chef Thomas Keller isn't one of those well-known watch collectors who's out there flaunting his collection all the time. In fact, despite knowing for probably eight or nine years now that he's an enthusiast, I don't think I could have named more than one or two of his watches until last week. They're definitely a passion of his, but a mostly personal one. I wanted to learn more.
So, when I saw that Keller had just dropped a new cookbook, his first in 10 years, I figured it was time we fix that. Last week, Chef was kind enough to chat with me from his iconic Yountville, CA, restaurant, The French Laundry, and, while we started out talking about why a bulletproof Rolex Daytona is always a good choice in the kitchen and the Baume & Mercier and Vacheron Constantin watches that mark the evolution of The French Laundry, our conversation quickly got more philosophical.
Chef Thomas Keller's latest book, published by Artisan (October 2020).
Chef's new book – The French Laundry, Per Se – is full of recipes, but it's also full of Keller's meditations on what it means to be in a hospitality-focused business, the relationship between luxury and precision, and how the smallest changes can sometimes make the biggest impact. Get the book and look for the section about "green tape moments," and you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. These ideas will be familiar to anyone interested in watches, and Keller is able to connect the two crafts – cooking and watchmaking – deftly and cleverly, emphasizing the ways in which tradition and evolution play off one another and how, ultimately, both are about making people happy.
One quick side note: At the end of the show, Chef Keller and I have an important conversation about what we can all do to support the restaurants we love through this extremely difficult time. If you've got the means and the interest, please check out the show notes below for some links to great organizations that are making sure the people who give us those incredible nights out are taken care of and that the restaurants where we make memories will be waiting for us when it's safe to visit again.
We hope you enjoy Episode 115 of HODINKEE Radio. Be sure to check out the show notes, and let us know what you think in the comments below.
Zodiac was built on value and volume during its golden era from the '50s to the '70s. The watches provided an affordable tool that could stand up to the circumstances the adventurous wearers often found themselves in, be it diving, racing, or crawling through the jungle. Modern Zodiac models don't stray far from that formula, and the watches put forth a very strong value proposition.
Today, we have four models that exemplify the wide range of functionality that has made Zodiac's watches such indispensable tools. Yet, at the base of each, you'll find the distinct Zodiac DNA that makes the brand's watches instantly recognizable. On one end of the spectrum, we have a playful and colorful duo of classic dive watches that fully embody the spirit of Zodiac: the Super Sea Wolf Compression 'Watermelon' and 'Creamsicle.' On the other end, we have two models with a more subdued aesthetic that offer exciting functionality. After a number of successful limited edition GMT variations within the beloved Super Sea Wolf line, Zodiac has finally made the complication a permanent fixture of the Super Sea Wolf family with the Super Sea Wolf GMT Two-Tone and Stainless Steel. You can find all four of these unique watches right here in the HODINKEE Shop.
Super Sea Wolf Compression 'Watermelon' And 'Creamsicle'
In a competitive market for dive watches, what has separated Zodiac from other watch manufacturers is its fearlessness for the use of colors. As early as the 1960s, Zodiac was producing watches with unusual color combinations, such as pale blue for the bezel against a bright neon orange and black dial, that jumped out among the sea of mostly conservative all-black dive watches at the time.
This newly reincarnated Super Sea Wolf Compression model carries on the daring DNA color-wise and retains the signature heritage design at the same time. The first things that jumps out are no doubt the 'watermelon' and 'creamsicle' color schemes. The Super Sea Wolf Compression ZO9269 'Watermelon' combines a bright green mineral crystal topring, hour markers, and minute hand with coral accents on the inner ring and Zodiac logo. While undoubtedly mimicking the hues of the fruit for which the model gets its nickname, the design was actually inspired by a vintage diving mask from the '60s and '70s. Alternatively, the Super Sea Wolf Compression ZO9270 'Creamsicle' combines a white mineral crystal topring, dial, and hour markers with orange accents on the inner ring and minute hand as well as additional orange accents on the mineral crystal topring.
Both models boast a 40mm stainless steel case with a unidirectional mineral crystal topring. For optimal legibility, they include a sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating along with hands and indexes treated with a healthy dose of C3 Super-LumiNova. With water resistance up to 200 meters, the durable steel case will protect you sufficiently both underwater and on land. And let's not forget about Zodiac's in-house workhorse automatic movement, the STP 3-13, hidden under the screw-down caseback. At a price point of just above $1,000, these models are hard to pass up.
Super Sea Wolf GMT Two-Tone And Stainless Steel
Inspired by a desire for travel and exploration, Zodiac originally created the GMT in 1966 as an evolution to the famed Super Sea Wolf. In more recent years, the brand had released limited edition GMT variations within the collection that were met with instant success and left collectors wanting more. Now, Zodiac has answered the call and made this highly functional complication a permanent fixture of the Super Sea Wolf lineup. In addition to the upgraded functionality, you'll immediately notice the Super Sea Wolf GMT features a more low-key profile compared to most Zodiac watches and models within the Super Sea Wolf family. With the option of either a two-tone build or simply stainless steel, Zodiac emphasizes that the focus of the watch is on the GMT. Notably, the bright red GMT hand serves as the only pop of color against the black semi-glossy dial.
Still, at the base of the GMT, you'll find the same Super Sea Wolf DNA you've come to know and love. It features a 40mm build and a slightly larger thickness of 14mm to accommodate the new GMT functionality. The hands and indexes still get a healthy dose of Super-LumiNova for optimal legibility against the black semi-glossy dial. In addition, the Super Sea Wolf GMT offers up to 200 meters of water resistance and a power reserve of 42 hours. To power the new functionality of the GMT and date complications, Zodiac has chosen to use a Swiss movement from the Soprod manufacturer. The C125 is an automatic movement known for both its robustness and reliability. Extremely precise, this high-functioning watch's accuracy is matched only by the classic simplicity of its design.
Explore The Range Of Zodiac Watches In The HODINKEE Shop
Whether you appreciate the fun, bold nature of Zodiac's colorful designs, like the Super Sea Wolf Compression 'Watermelon' and 'Creamsicle,' or you're looking for a more classic and timeless take on the Super Sea Wolf, like the new GMTs, you get the perfect combination of quality and value that has become synonymous with the Zodiac name for decades. We always look forward to seeing new colorways and design inspiration within Zodiac's Super Sea Wolf line, and we couldn't be more excited to see a GMT as a new staple within the collection. Discover each of these models for yourself, right here in the HODINKEE Shop.
It takes a lot to surprise the HODINKEE editorial team, with well over 100 years of watch reporting experience among us. Crazy ideas? We've seen a few. But we couldn't believe our inboxes when we saw that Vacheron Constantin is teaming up with The Louvre and Christie's to auction off a custom, one-of-a-kind watch with an enamel dial painted to look like the winning bidder's favorite work of art from the famed Paris museum, with proceeds benefiting community programming at the Louvre.
We'll give you a second here to digest all of that.
Vacheron's distinctive Les Cabinotiers program leverages the manufacture's multiple in-house artistic craft departments, which do gem-setting, enameling, and more under the same roof as the watchmaking itself. It's produced some serious show-stoppers over the last few years too, including the Mechaniques Sauvages pieces, the La Musique Du Temps pieces, and the Ref. 57260 pocket watch (the most complicated watch ever made).
But this latest watch pushes the ideas of a "custom" and "artistic" watch to a whole new level. The winner of Christie's online auction (which ends December 15) will visit both Paris and Geneva, personally select a favorite artwork from the Louvre's collection to be reproduced in enamel on their watch's dial, and then take delivery of their own tiny masterpiece. The watch itself will be a three-hander with a 40mm case made of platinum, pink gold, or white gold, featuring a hinged officer-style caseback with an engraving underneath (and the in-house caliber 2460 SC also visible). But come on, this one's obviously not about the movement.
If we won the auction, here's the art we'd be picking:
Winged Victory Of Samothrace – Artist Unknown
If I'm buying a watch with artwork from the Louvre on it, I'm gonna pick a piece that's extra Louvre-ish (for lack of a better word). It's definitely not the Mona Lisa – too obvious – plus, who wants her staring at you all day? It'd need to be something high-impact, something like TheWinged Victory of Samothrace.
If you've ever had the honor of visiting the Louvre, you've seen this massive marble statue looming over the crowds. It's truly beautiful and (like a great watch) makes you wonder how something so astounding could've possibly been made by hand. Representing the goddess of victory, this Hellenistic statue would look amazing on a watch. In a dream world, I'd do mine in steel for a touch of grit with my fancy grisaille dial. But since it's only available in precious metals, I suppose — sigh — I would settle for the platinum.
– Cara Barrett
The Coronation Of Napoleon – Jacques-Louis David
I’m going for maximum contrast here. My wife has a Ph.D. in French Literature, so we've spent a decent amount of time in Paris over the years, and one Louvre painting I try to see as often as possible is Jacques-Louis David's The Coronation Of Napoleon. It hangs in an upper gallery, around the corner from the always-mobbed (and honestly not that great) Mona Lisa, and it's absolutely bonkers: a 32-foot-wide, 20-foot-tall depiction of Napoleon crowning himself Emperor in the cathedral of Notre Dame.
Think about the audacity it takes to tell the Pope that you'd rather crown yourself than have him do it. "Nah, Pius VII, I got this." Shrinking this down to fit on a one-and-a-half-inch watch dial is probably impossible, but I'd like to see the masters at Vacheron Constantin try. And it'd save me money on redeye tickets to Paris if they could pull it off too.
– Stephen Pulvirent
The Astronomer – Johannes Vermeer
If you're going to commission a painstaking recreation of a famous piece of artwork for a watch dial, you might as well make the task as difficult for the artist as possible. Give 'em a chance to flex a little, you know? With that in mind – and since Saturn Devouring His Son is not part of the Louvre's collection – let's get cracking on a miniaturization of The Astronomer by the incredible Dutch artist Johannes Vermeer.
Part of the Dutch Golden Age, Vermeer is celebrated for his incredible, often photo-like, treatment of light and detail (if you want to see just how incredible, watch the documentary Tim's Vermeer). More to the point, The Astronomer is not only a simply gorgeous portrait of a stargazer sitting at his desk, it's also the right sort of genre for an art-watch. The balance of the imagery would allow for a centralized handset without spoiling the subject — not to mention the wonderful way in which light emanates from the window.
– James Stacey
The Bid For The Louvre sale is live now and closes at 9:00 AM ET on December 15, and this custom Vacheron Constantin experience carries an estimate of €100,000-300,000. The proceeds benefit social and educational programs at The Louvre as well. Check out the full listing here.
In this day and age, it's rare to find a truly fresh-to-market watch of epic stature, mint condition, and true historic importance. Rare, but not impossible.
Here, we share for the first time the story of famed race car driver Carroll Shelby (1923–2012) and the Patek Philippe pink gold chronograph ref. 1463 he was awarded in 1959 – a trophy for winning the 24 Hours of Le Mans, with co-driver Roy Salvadori, in an Aston Martin DBR1. Winning this race was the highlight of Shelby's racing career. And the fact that a Patek chronograph, not a Rolex, was given as a prize for the ultimate car race? This rewrites watch history.
The 2019 movie Ford v Ferrari will give you the framework (Hollywood style) for understanding Carroll Shelby (especially during his Ford years). The documentary Shelby American: The Carroll Shelby Story gives a more realistic insight into Shelby's life and legacy, from his failed attempt as a chicken farmer, to his racing years, to his legacy and later development of the AC Cobra and Shelby Mustangs.
Recently, I had the opportunity to speak to Pat Shelby, Carroll Shelby's youngest son, about the importance of this Patek Philippe ref. 1463. Pat was in the pit in Le Mans and is one of the last surviving members of the inner circle present on that memorable day. "I was a kid at the time," he says, "and didn't realize I was witnessing history until much later on."
Carroll Shelby in pit lane at the 24 Hours of Le Mans, June 21, 1959 (Photo: Bernard Cahier/Getty Images).
Carroll Shelby joined the U.S. Air Corps right out of high school. He reported to San Antonio for training and quickly developed a reputation as a talented pilot. According to his son, "They made him a flying sergeant, and he kept putting in to go overseas, but they kept him here to train others… He joined a year before Pearl Harbor. He trained other pilots, navigators, and bombardiers. He flew everything, and the last plane he flew while in the service was the B29. He always remained disappointed that he couldn't go over to fight."
After the war, Shelby turned his attention from the air to the ground and focused almost exclusively on car racing. He started driving professionally at the age of 29 and quickly gained the attention of the international racing community.
Carroll Shelby overlooking the scene of a CanAm race on September 1, 1968, at Road America in Wisconsin (Photo Alvis Upitis/Getty Images).
He raced domestically in the late 1940s and early 1950s before going international. In 1954, he raced the 1,000 km Buenos Aires. There, he met with Aston Martin and started the relationship that led him to the famous 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1959. His racing profile and fame grew and culminated in the Le Mans race.
Throughout the 1950s, he honed his skills as a salesperson to convince various owners that he deserved to race their cars. Shelby convinced owners and teams that he was the right man for the job and raced cars from Aston Martin, Austin-Healey, Ferrari, Maserati, Porsche, and others.
Shelby knew that the 1959 race was the high point of his racing career, and the day he received the Patek Philippe for winning the 24 Hours of Le Mans set the stage for the next chapter of his life. In 1961, he opened the Shelby School of High Performance Driving at the Riverside Track in Southern California.
Carroll Shelby working his way to a first-place finish behind the wheel of an Aston Martin DBR1 at the 24 Hours of Le Mans, France, 1959 (Photo: National Motor Museum/Heritage Images/Getty Images).
"Winning the 24 Hours was probably the greatest thrill I ever got out of racing," Shelby said. "I can think of plenty of other races that carry their quota of thrills for the winner, but when you win this one, it kind of gives you license to go out and tell people you're good, and that often helps get some other deals together."
According to his son, once he received the Patek Philippe, he discreetly put it in his pocket and got back to the business of racing. Shelby wasn't into racing for the riches and accolades. He was only in it to win.
The Watch
The ref. 1463 itself is extraordinarily well preserved. Shelby, not being the most materialistic person, rarely if ever wore the watch, and later gifted it to his teenage son Pat.
The family treasured the watch for its sentimental value, how it marked such a memorable day. "I didn't wear it, and it upset him," Pat says. "He said 'You ought to wear it,' and I said no. It was pristine, and I wanted to keep it that way."
This ref. 1463's condition speaks for itself. It still has its original presentation strap, original red box with gilt Calatrava logo, and it has never been cleaned or polished. As an example of a ref. 1463, it is a holy-grail specimen. Its remarkable history brings it to a new level. The engraving on the caseback: "Carroll Shelby. Aston Martin. 1st LeMans 1959. 2701 Miles" is perfectly preserved.
The watch stayed carefully protected and unknown to those outside the family until Pat Shelby reached out to his longtime friend Denis Boulle a few years back. Denis is the owner of de Boulle Diamond & Jewelry in Dallas, Texas, a prominent Patek Philippe authorized retailer. Denis' son Nick is a noted race car driver (@nickboulle).
Pat knew Denis and his son were the right people to trust with his family watch. Pat asked them, "You're into racing, what's this thing worth?" When Denis Boulle first held the watch he said, "I felt like I was holding part of racing history in my hands."
Aware of the Shelby legacy, and the importance of a new old stock ref. 1463, the exchange led to a brilliant idea: to showcase the Aston Martin DBR1, recreated using as many original parts and manufacturing processes that helped Carroll Shelby win the 24 Hours of Le Mans, alongside the "trophy" Patek Philippe watch at the deBoulle store in Dallas.
"Over the years, we have found that many of the people who collect cars also collect jewelry and watches," Denis says. "We often invite clients to racing events all over the world, giving a VIP experience that they just can't get anywhere else. Having the car and the watch on display in the store is a wonderful experience for all visitors."
Fitting the reproduction 1959 Le Mans-winning DBR1 into the store was no easy feat, as Nick Boulle explains. "We had freshly installed front doors removed to make room, and the car was partially disassembled to ensure it safely squeezed through the door opening."
Hundreds of people have made the pilgrimage to see the historic car and the watch, which are still on show for a limited time. As for the future of the watch? Not for sale. It's a family heirloom that is going to stay in the family. As Pat said, "Heck, I might just start wearing it tomorrow."
Dad would be proud.
John Reardon is a well-known expert on Patek Philippe, a HODINKEE contributor, and founder of Collectability.com, a website devoted to information and education about vintage Patek Philippe watches.Lead photo by Bernard Cahier/Getty Images.
General Charles Elwood "Chuck" Yeager, the most famous test pilot of his generation and one of the most famous pilots of all time, passed away yesterday at the age of 97. In watch enthusiast circles, Yeager was well-known as a lifelong wearer of Rolex watches, as well as appearing in the company's advertisements. His death was announced on his Twitter feed by his wife, Victoria.
Chuck Yeager was born in 1923 in Myra, West Virginia, to a farming family and honed his skills as a marksman from an early age, helping to hunt small game for the family table. While his hunter's instincts would later stand him in good stead as a fighter pilot, Yeager did not think of himself – despite being often described as a "natural-born stick-and-rudder man" – as a natural-born pilot.
"All I know is I worked my tail off learning to learn how to fly, and worked hard at it all the way," Yeager wrote in his memoir.
Yeager in 1947 with the Bell X-1 "Glamorous Glennis," which was named, like all his aircraft, after his first wife, Glennis Dickhouse. (Photo: Wikipedia)
Yeager began his military career as a mechanic, but thanks to the urgent need for pilot recruits, as well as his unusually keen vision, he was accepted for pilot training and, in 1944, shipped out to England, where he flew P-51 Mustangs for the 363rd Fighter Wing. Yeager was shot down on one occasion over France but escaped to Spain, and returned to England to fly again. On October 12, 1944, he became an "ace in a day," downing five enemy fighters, and he even became one of the first Allied pilots to shoot down the German jet fighter, the Me 262 (Yeager would later remark, "First time I saw a jet, I shot it down.").
Chuck Yeager in 1986. (Photo: United News/Popperphoto via Getty)
But despite his distinguished career as a combat aviator, Yeager is best remembered for his flight of October 14, 1947, when he flew the Bell X-1 rocket plane through the sound barrier and into the history books. Yeager had broken two ribs falling from a horse two days before and, fearful he'd be replaced if word got out, he had his ribs taped up by a civilian doctor. The morning of the flight, the pain was so bad he couldn't close the X-1's hatch, and he confided in his friend, fellow test pilot Jack Ridley, who gave him a sawed-off section of broom handle to lever the hatch shut.
Yeager in 1958. (Photo: Alamy Images)
Yeager would go on to break more speed and altitude records in the years to come, and when he retired in 1975, he had a distinguished career not only as a pilot and test pilot, but as a senior commanding officer as well; he retired as a brigadier general. He was immortalized in Tom Wolfe's encyclopedic book, The Right Stuff, where he was portrayed as an icon of bravery, skill, and a fearless willingness to test the limits of both himself and his aircraft. Yeager, like his fellow pilots, habitually wore a wristwatch both on the ground and in the cockpit, and Wolfe notes the propensity of pilots for technical watches in the book:
"Conrad, along with Schirra and Lovell, arrives at the Pentagon and presents his orders and files into a room with thirty-four other young men, most of them with crew cuts and all of them with lean lineless faces and suntans and the unmistakable cocky rolling gait of fighter jocks, not to mention the pathetic-looking civilian suits and the enormous wristwatches. The wristwatches had about two thousand calibrations on them and dials for recording everything short of the sound of enemy guns. These terrific wristwatches were practically fraternal insignia among the pilots. Thirty-odd young souls wearing Robert Hall clothes that cost about a fourth as much as their watches: in the year 1959 this just had to be a bunch of military pilots trying to disguise themselves as civilians."
Yeager at Edwards Air Force Base in 1986. (Photo: David Madison/Getty Images)
Yeager, however, wore Rolex watches, favoring their sturdiness and simplicity over the complexity of the chronographs preferred by many of his contemporaries. Yeager appears to be wearing a Rolex Oyster of uncertain reference in photos taken during the Bell X-1 flight in 1947, and he's also known to have worn a Rolex Submariner – a "Big Crown" ref. 6538. He's best known, however, for his GMT-Master II ref. 16710.
Yeager's preference for simplicity and reliability in his watches was reflected in his deeply pragmatic approach to flying. Though he had a reputation as a daredevil, Yeager believed firmly that taking risks for their own sake was foolhardy. In his memoirs, he reflected, "I was always afraid of dying. Always. It was my fear that made me learn everything I could about my airplane and my emergency equipment, and kept me flying respectful of my machine and always alert in the cockpit."
"The secret to my success was that somehow I always managed to live to fly another day."
Headline image, Kim Kulish/CORBIS via Getty Images
Iconic designs abound in the world of luxury watches, and the octagonal motif – as made famous by the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and your neighborhood stop sign – has driven a number of recent hits. The smash G-Shock GA-2100, which costs about a hundred bucks, has earned the nickname "CasiOak" after its octagonal shape. Was this intentional? Let's find out.
First, a quick refresher on the watch. The GA-2100 series was introduced in 2019 to evolve the highly original G-Shock DW5000 while keeping its DNA intact. It took almost two years to develop. And to answer the big question: No. Junichi Izumi, the product manager of the watch at Casio Hanemura Technology Center, says the watch drew no influence from its famous predecessors.
Junichi Izumi, the product manager at Casio Hanemura Technology Center.
"I was actually surprised when I heard the feedback," he says. "In fact, we started the project quite far away from the luxury sport watches. The G-Shock started with the original DW5000 in 1983, and the AW500, the first analog hand-equipped model, came out in 1989. The theme for the latter was to remove all unnecessary elements from the watch, and after some 30 years, the leaner and meaner GA-2100 was born with modern technology within. From a product concept standpoint, we wanted to create an ana-digi version of the DW5000."
Ryo Amikura, G-Design Room at Casio Hanemura Technology Center.
Meanwhile, Ryo Amikura of G-Design Room (who was responsible for the design) made a fair point about the octagonal design choice: "Actually, an octagon has been an iconic shape for the G-Shock as well. The octagonal bezel first appeared on the original DW5000, and we have used the motif many times ever since. We produced more than twenty 3D-printed prototypes to determine the balance of the octagon for the GA-2100. We were also tasked to create a thinner and more compact G-Shock, and maintaining its three-dimensional design while keeping the overall thickness in check was a challenge."
The octagonal bezel of the GA2100 after numerous trials.
The carbon case enabled the slimmer profile while maintaining the shock-resistance.
From the user's point of view, a slimmer model in the world of G-Shock sounds intriguing, to say the least, but the internal feedback at Casio wasn't quite favorable. The team had the hardest time breaking the mold of the "G-Shock must be rugged and extra bold" mantra.
"G-Shock's mainstream price point is the $100 to $120 range, and that should be accessible for the youth segment," Izumi says. "However, when we interviewed the demographic, we learned that the conventional ethos of the G-Shock might not be fully resonating with them. They see a watch as a part of their fashion, and they want to wear it in harmony with their whole outfit. They don't want the watch to stand out just for the sake of standing out."
3D-printed prototypes.
Many shades of red.
Initially, we were met with a strong resistance internally, and some still say 'I don't know why it became such a big hit' to this day.
Junichi Izumi
As Izumi intended, teenagers make up a decent percentage of the actual purchasing demographic, and many are buying the GA-2100 as their first G-Shock. Today, Casio sells more G-Shock overseas than in Japan in revenue, and the new model is doing very well in North America and Europe – markets that are usually not particularly active.
"To be honest, I'm relieved the watch is selling well," he says. "Our approach for the GA-2100 was completely different from the conventional G-Shock models, and initially, we were met with a strong resistance internally, and some still say 'I don't know why it became such a big hit' to this day. I think the watch got the attention for the right reasons, but I do confess the budgeting for this project wasn't the easiest thing ever, and I must thank Amikura for delivering the solid design."
The red version utilizes nine different tones of red to maintain legibility.
GA-2100 series is pioneering the new frontier for the G-Shock.
Only the red model features the color-matched resin buckle.
In a way, the watch is a prime example of how a truly great product can emerge out of restrictions and limitations in the creative process. "I didn't particularly feel my hands were tied," Amikura says. "It is true that with the models in a higher price bracket, you'd be able to do things like complex and intricate finishes, but there are plenty of things you can do without much extra cost like exploring shapes and colors."
"I wanted to create a G-Shock that resonates with the younger audience and their potential needs"
Junichi Izumi
It's true, though, that the GA-2100 didn't go for the conventional G-Shock-esque approach in design, and instead chose the path that was closer to the design ethos of creating luxury watches. "One thing this watch clearly differs from other G-Shock models is that we chose to leave blank spaces on the dial," Amikura says. "It is always tempting to fill it out with design elements, but for this watch, we focused on the analog display and kept the digital LCD display, which might be seen as the identity of G-Shock, to the absolute minimum."
Izumi's choice. The recent full-metal models started with this one.
Amikura's choice. He prefers playful funky colors.
Creating a brand-new watch by dropping your own traditional approach is something the Swiss watch industry did when facing extinction in the Quartz Crisis. And that elevated the wristwatch from a mere time-telling tool to something that has a cultural value. The GA-2100 could do likewise for Casio.
"I want this watch to become a new staple of the G-Shock family," Izumi says. "The G-Shock is known for its robustness and the resistance against impact, and I want the GA-2100 to be the watch that keeps giving you an impactful impression."
We believe every vintage watch has a story to tell. That's what HODINKEE was founded on, and since 2016, we've used our knowledge to bring you a curated selection of vintage watches in the HODINKEE Shop that you won't find elsewhere, all delivered with an emphasis on education, transparency, and storytelling. And now, we're kicking things up a notch.
You'll still find us here every Wednesday morning, and we'll still be highlighting what we love and what you should know about every vintage watch that appears in the HODINKEE Shop. You'll also see every angle, of every watch, because we shoot all the vintage watches listed in the HODINKEE Shop ourselves – and we always will.
What's new, however, is the amount of watches you'll discover each week. We've grown our team of specialists, and we're now able to deliver a larger – and broader – selection of vintage watches than ever before. You'll also learn about the highlight pieces in each week's assortment in articles like the below, directly from the team members who are most excited about them. The comments section is also now open for discussion, because we want to hear from you – don't hesitate to let us know what you think and what you'd like to see from us going forward.
This Week's Vintage Watches
1980s Porsche Design By IWC Compass Watch 'Olive Green'
1969 Breitling 'CHRONO-MATIC' Ref. 2111
1969 Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 'Frog's Foot'
We're back this week with an expansive selection of vintage pieces in the HODINKEE Shop. Whether you're still looking for that oh-so-perfect gift for the holidays or simply to expand your own collection, we think you'll appreciate our lineup this week. We have a mix of standout watches from the Crown, like a classic Rolex GMT-Master 'Root Beer,' as well as more unexpected sport models, like a 1960s Rolex Milgauss. On the other end of the spectrum, we have some fantastic dressier pieces, like an 18k Omega Constellation and a 1988 Patek Philippe Reference 3796 in 18k yellow gold. Still, the two most exciting watches in this week's lineup may very well be the two picks from our own Brandon Frazin: an Orvis Solunagraph Ref. 2446SF By Heuer and a Doxa Complete Calendar Chronograph With Moon Phase. Head over to the HODINKEE Shop now to check out these watches and more, or read on to get our team's take on these models.
A 1970s Orvis Solunagraph Ref. 2446SF By Heuer And A 1940s Doxa Complete Calendar Chronograph With Moon Phase
By Brandon Frazin
I love the idea of time traveling back into the 1970s, going to Orvis, and getting outfitted for a fishing expedition. Then, right after I get all my gear, I realize I need a watch for my trip, stroll over to the counter, pick out one of these Solunagraph chronographs, and go on my way. That thought makes me almost laugh out loud because situations like this don't really happen too much these days. I wonder how many of these Solunagraphs were actually purchased like that. The first time I saw one of these was a few years ago when I worked in the auction world, and I was really enamored by it. The whole Orvis and Heuer connection really struck a chord with me. Back in the day, my mom had an Orvis-edition Jeep Grand Cherokee, so I was familiar with the brand and it all came full circle.
I like the size of the 2446 Compressor case and the use of blue on the subdials with the beautiful grey, almost taupe, colored dial. I think you all know I am a fan of dive watches, so to me, it's neat that they incorporated a diving-style rotating bezel with the chronograph and threw in the tide indicator. The watch we have here is the first execution (Heuer made two versions of this model for Orvis). The main differences between the two would be the bezel, tide indicator, and hand style. They're both very cool, but there is something to be said about getting the first execution of a watch. These Orvis Solunagraphs by Heuer are some of the least common watches out there. Plus, the sheer uniqueness of the model makes this a pretty compelling watch for someone who wants something interesting, functional, and that has a fun story. Check out the watch here.
This has been said before, and it will be said again: Vintage watches really are all about the little details, and this Doxa is full of 'em. The first thing that I noticed on this complete calendar was how nicely Doxa matched the blue and red accents on the dial. The red date numbers around the edge match the red hand that points to them, and the blue Tachy around the hour markers match the seconds hand and moon-phase disc so nicely. The person who designed this watch knew exactly what they were doing.
When looking at other complete calendar watches from this time period, you don't find them often with this kind of character. In addition to the blue and red colors, the smooth silver dial looks great with the applied gold hour markers and contrasts nicely with the engine-turned subsidiary dials. The light just bounces off the subsidiary dials, giving them an almost champagne glimmer that goes perfectly with the gold hands and hour markers. I almost forgot to mention those awesome spherical hour markers, and paired with the thin leaf-style hands and Arabic 12, it just has a great overall look.
One other nice detail about this Doxa is how they set up the correctors on the side of the case at nine o'clock. Some companies would make buttons where one needed to use a little "pusher" tool to push in the button to change or correct the month and date, but on this watch, there are actual small buttons, so one can just use a fingernail to adjust the time without worrying about scratching the case. See this watch for yourself over in the HODINKEE Shop.
A 1970 Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 And A 1988 Patek Philippe Ref. 3796 in 18k Yellow Gold
By Saori Omura
Rolex's philosophy has always been about achieving the extraordinary, from reaching the deepest of the seas to the highest of the mountains. The Milgauss is one of the oddities among their sport models – it never had any fancy backstory related to exploration over land, air, or sea like the other sport models. However, it certainly came about from exploring the new frontier. As World War II came to an end in 1945, there was a rise of significant interest in whether nuclear energy would become the next best source of energy in the world. In the 1950s, as more scientists, engineers, and technicians entered this research field, a brand new demand for watches with higher anti-magnetic capabilities needed to be addressed. While wristwatches were generally made with anti-magnetic properties by this era, this was a whole new work environment with much higher magnetism than previously known.
The name "Milgauss" signifies the watch's ability: "Mil" means one thousand, and "gauss" is a unit of magnetic induction. The Milgauss was designed to resist up to 1,000 gauss, and in the late 1950s, the anti-magnetic capability was officially tested by the European Council for Nuclear Research in Geneva (aka CERN). It passed the test, confirming the watch's capacity to withstand up to 1,000 gauss, as the name claims. The ref. 1019 is the third generation model introduced in the 1960s. Rolex updated this model to a more subtle design overall with either a silver or black dial, polished smooth bezel, and seconds hand with a small red triangle tip. The case size is just right at 38mm, hitting in the middle of Datejust/Day-Date and Submariner/GMT-Master territories. It's certainly not the most recognized Rolex sport model, but this is exactly why I love this piece. It has an interesting history, and only people with a keen eye will know what you have on your wrist. If you'd like to see this watch on yours, head over to the HODINKEE Shop.
The beloved Patek Philippe Calatrava has been in production since the 1930s and represents the core values of the company. It appears simple and effortless at a glance. However, when you look further, it becomes evident that the details are meticulously thought through, and there is no margin of error in the final product. This Calatrava design is interesting in so far as it is more of a broad idea of a time-only dress watch in a round case as opposed to a very specific design. Plus, none of the pieces designated as a Calatrava ever actually had that name anywhere on the watch. Over the years, these designs were offered in various metals, sizes, and dial configurations. The one common theme throughout the design is that, regardless of the configuration, the proportions are on point. This Calatrava in 18k yellow gold resembles a similar style to the original ref. 96, hence the reason why Patek Philippe issued the reference number as "3796" to pay tribute to the original model. We rarely use the term "timeless" to describe a watch, but we feel that this watch deserves this highest accolade as a watch design transcending beyond time and gender of the wearer. After all, we never actually own a Patek Philippe, we merely look after it for the next generation! To make this watch part of your lineage, visit the HODINKEE Shop.
A 1968 18k Omega Constellation With 18k Omega Bracelet Ref. 168019 And A 1976 Rolex GMT-Master 'Root Beer' Ref. 1675 In Two-Tone
By Cait Bazemore
By now, you may be getting a sense of the type of watches that really strike my fancy, and one element that will always catch my eye is yellow gold. Today, stainless steel tends to reign supreme in the watch space, and yellow gold certainly isn't for everyone or every watch. But for me, there's something about the warmth of it and the sometimes-ostentatious statement of it that instantly draws me in. In addition, I'm a sucker for anything related to the cosmos, be it a moon-phase complication or general aesthetic. Needless to say, I was pretty excited about a couple of the gold watches that came across our desks this week: an 18k Omega Constellation and a Rolex GMT-Master 'Root Beer.'
Omega first introduced the Constellation collection in 1952, but it would take a few years and a few modifications before we would get the model we see here today. In 1964, Omega made some notable aesthetic updates, namely in the form of the c-case, which resembled two interlocked c-shapes. You can see this case in the 18k gold ref. 168019 we have in the Shop. In addition to this unique case design, you'll notice a gold linen-textured dial that really adds depth and interest. Furthermore, the dial is non-lume with black painted hands and black on the applied hour markers. Black and gold is a classic combination from an aesthetic perspective. However, Omega also did this for legibility. This ref. 168019 takes it a step further with the original Omega-signed 18k yellow gold expandable bracelet, which is in great condition and still has tension. With this Constellation, you also get the added bonus of a day-date complication, located at three o'clock. Still, for me, the clincher is the little details that are trademarks of the Constellation: the embellishment of the star on the dial as a reference to constellations in the sky and the Observatory Logo on the caseback in homage to Omega's award-winning movements that were evaluated at the Kew Observatory in 1933 and 1936. Learn more about this watch, and make it your own, in the HODINKEE Shop.
The Rolex GMT-Master has become synonymous with its distinctive two-tone bezel combinations and the subsequent monikers these color combinations have garnered. This 'Root Beer' GMT has aged like a fine wine, with an attractive bezel that's faded into nice, soft shades of red and copper, both of which perfectly meld with the dark, earthy burgundy dial. While any model in the GMT-Master lineup is undoubtedly a robust tool, marked by GMT functionality, the 'Root Beer' offers something more. The rich warm tones of the two-tone bezel and the two-tone build give this highly capable model a certain softness and own unique sense of style. I love that this combination allows you to dress the watch up or down. Check it out for yourself right here.
To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, clickhere.
Questions? Send us anote, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Clickhere.
Welcome to another installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Asim Rai, Fabian Power, Oliver Hui, Ian Wan, and Jessy Toscano.
Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story.
Asim Rai And His Sinn U1
Asim lives in London, but grew up in Frankfurt, Germany. He developed an interest in watches in college, when he worked part-time at a jeweler. He says his Sinn U1 has a design DNA true to the brand, and that it's a true, tough tool watch. Watches have come and gone in his collection, but he says he'll always have this one because of the brand's Frankfurt connection.
Fabian is from the Netherlands, but recorded this video while on vacation in Italy. He bought a Rolex Explorer II a few years ago, wore it almost every day, but ended up selling it – and then buying another one. He says that now that he's reunited with the Explorer II, he won't part with it again. Fabian celebrated his 50th birthday in August (a belated Happy Birthday!), and his family gave him The Watch Book: Rolex for a little vacation reading.
Oliver Hui And His Scurfa Diver One
Oliver, who is from London, took his girlfriend hiking in the Lake District last year – and successfully proposed to her. To commemorate the occasion, his fiancé got him this Scurfa Diver One D1 500. Oliver is a fan of tool watches, wears this one while doing just about everything, and doesn't worry about dinging or scuffing it.
Ian is a high schooler in Beijing. This Orient Three Star was a gift from his grandfather to his father, on the occasion of his father getting accepted into college in 1987. How meaningful was that gift? Well, it cost about half of his grandfather's yearly salary. Ian grew up looking at the watch in his father's drawer, and "stole" it a few years ago and started learning about it – to the point that he even serviced it himself.
Jessy lives in San Francisco and is the proud owner of this 1970s Rolex Submariner ref. 1680. This year, Jessy turned 30, met an Australian girl, and ended up spending a few months visiting her in Australia. In the midst of everything happening this year personally and globally, he decided there was no reason "we can't afford ourselves these little pleasantries," and pulled the trigger on this Sub.
Ready To Submit Your Own Watch Story? Here's How It Works
1. Pick one watch that is very special to you, and get your camera phone ready.
2. Record a video telling us your most interesting or meaningful story about your watch. Let's say 2-3 minutes is the sweet spot – if you go longer, that's okay. (And please remember to introduce yourself: your name and where you are from.)
3. Get creative, keep it clean, and have fun!
4. Take some photos on the wrist and a few shots of the watch so that we can proudly display them on our site. Horizontal, please.
5. To share your video and photos, you can either A) upload here; or B) upload to your preferred large file transfer service and send a link to mywatchstory@hodinkee.com.
The year is 1952, and Charlie Chaplin has a violin in his hands. It's the climactic scene of Limelight, and he's on-stage opposite Buster Keaton, who's seated professorially at the piano. The music that follows is at once ridiculous and sublime – after a string-popping start, Chaplin plays a truly beautiful passage and then pauses to make out with his instrument – and it's so much to take in that you almost don't notice he's playing left-handed.
"As I played left-handed," Chaplin later wrote in his autobiography, "my violin was strung left-handed with the bass-bar and sounding post reversed." But his violin wasn't his only possession rejiggered with his left-handedness in mind.
Chaplin also owned a Rolex Oyster with the crown on the left side of the case. This positioning allowed him to use his dominant hand to wind the Rolex 700-series caliber inside the watch without having to take the watch off his right wrist: In other words, the exact opposite orientation of any standard watch.
The actor's Rolex was signed and sold by Asprey, the foremost luxury outfitter in London at the time. In 2013, Antiquorum auctioned the watch, blowing past the high estimate of $11,400 and selling for $51,250. "Destro" watches (meaning "right," as in right-handed, in Italian) are favored by collectors for their rarity. Charlie Chaplin's watch and in destro configuration? No wonder it soared past the estimate.
In Chaplin's day, many destros were custom-ordered from the manufacturer. For instance, the French Navy ordered "snowflake" Tudor ref. 9401 watches in destro configuration starting in 1970. Plenty of other watches came with a left-side crown for technical reasons, rather than catering exclusively to southpaws. In 1969, Breitling and Heuer both used the new Caliber 11 movement – and a left-side crown was (according to Heuer expert Jeff Stein of OnTheDash) the only way watchmakers could add a chronograph module to the base movement during development.
Watches like these remain a godsend for left and right-handed collectors alike. But certain brands continue to produce them today, and these watches aren't only finding their way to the right wrist.
A Modern Novelty
Survey the modern destro watches on the market, and you'll notice a pattern. Most are proper tool watches, or have at least roots in that world.
Take, for example, the meticulous watches from the German brand Sinn.
Sinn makes "mission timer" watches like the EZM 3, EZM 7 S (developed for firefighters), and the UX series (built for special operation forces) all with the crown on the left – and, according to Tim Burlon, head of marketing and communications, Sinn models with the crown on the left are actually designed to be worn on the left wrist in conventional fashion. The crown's on the left, he says, to "avoid any damage on the back of the hand during a mission, dive or sports." The left-side crown places it away from the wrist's path of articulation, and therefore it cant dig into your hand while bending your wrist.
Burlon notes that for the watches powered with automatic movements, the movement is rotated so the crown is away from the 3 o'clock position – and the date wheel is modified to match. But in the case of the UX, which is completely oil-filled, the quartz movement featured a crown at 10 o'clock, which required a "completely new situation" during the design phase to execute the destro configuration. Across the board, though, Sinn's left-side crown has nothing to do with the end-user being left-handed at all; it's just a matter of functional design.
Tudor never offered a destro watch in its catalog until 2016. (The aforementioned Snowflake Submariner was a one-off request in the '70s.) In the modern era, the company took its truest tool watch, the Pelagos, and re-designed it in destro configuration and dubbed it the Pelagos LHD, for "left-hand drive".
Here again, the left-side crown is about providing a functional benefit to folks wearing it on either wrist. "We wanted to provide an ergonomic benefit to push the tech specs of the Pelagos even further," a Tudor spokesperson, says. "The idea was more functional than aesthetic. That's why it happened within the Pelagos line rather than, say, the Black Bay family."
And to back the notion up, he offered a bit of insight on the technical chops the watch boasts that support the destro configuration: "The LHD is powered by a special version of the caliber MT5612. It is the reference 5612-LHD. Why is that? We have this caliber pass the COSC tests upside down, so as to reflect the positions in which this caliber will most often be in. This requires special regulation."
Anecdotal evidence suggests that many if not most Tudor LHD owners are righties. And the watch offers an interesting insight into production numbers, which Tudor and Rolex never share. Each watch is serially numbered, though not limited. To understand how many have been made, one simply has to check the number engraved in the caseback of one recently purchased. Yet another reason to always read the caseback.
IWC is in the destro game, too, and takes a slightly different approach with its Big Pilot's Watch. Christian Knoop, the brand's head of design, says, "We noticed that some people wear it on the right wrist. However, due to the large conical crown, this is not optimal when it comes to the ergonomics and wearability. For this reason, we arrived upon the idea of creating the Big Pilot's Watch Edition 'Right-Hander.'"
Again, there's more to flipping the orientation than a few minor tweaks. When IWC conceptualized the watch, "We thought that we could rotate the movement by 180 degrees," Knoop says. "But when we took a closer look at the dial, the first challenges appeared. The Big Pilot has an asymmetric layout with a central seconds hand and the power reserve display at three o'clock. If you mirror this layout, the power reserve will be at nine o'clock, which looks unbalanced. For this reason, we chose a different design with a small second at three o'clock and the power reserve at nine o'clock.”
It's clear that the modern destro watch benefits anyone, regardless of dominant hand. Some destros may benefit right-handed people even more than lefties.
Consider the modern divers from Oris. For years the Holstein manufacturer has been putting out destro divers, starting with the 2010 Carlos Coste Limited Edition Chronograph, and most recently the Oris Aquis Red Limited Edition. VJ Geronimo, CEO of Oris North America, says that the watch does loosely address left-handed wearers, but the primary reason is that the watch already features a large, chunky case, "so with the pushers on the 'inside' side of the case, there's no discomfort from the crown and pushers when moving the hand up." Additionally, the crown and pushers are more protected on the left side of the case. But that only works if you wear your Oris on the left wrist, like most right-handers would.
When it comes to watches designed for lefties, it turns out there's no right way to wear them.
Among the HODINKEE staff, Grand Seiko is one of the absolute favorite watchmakers. A meticulous focus on dials, a movement technology without parallel in Spring Drive, and a design language that's really all its own are just a few of the reasons why the Japanese brand has captured and kept our attention. Perhaps because the brand arose outside of the conventional Swiss watchmaking ecosystem, it's been able to chart a unique identity grounded in its own unique principles, standards, and technologies. The three new watches that we are announcing today in the HODINKEE Shop are really fine examples of what we continue to find so appealing about Grand Seiko.
Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 Ceramic Bezel in Black
Grand Seiko divides its watches into a few logical lines – Elegance, Heritage, and Sport – enabling enthusiasts to make selections based on their specific tastes and needs. If you want something that exalts Japanese tradition, Heritage is there. Something refined and understated? Check out Elegance. As you can probably tell from these colorful, highly water-resistant stainless steel GMTs on bracelets, they fall squarely within the Sport Collection. One of the most notable benefits of models from the Sport Collection is legibility, from the broader layout down to details like the lume on the dial. The watches we have here today acutely illustrate this and serve as one of the best executions in terms of wearability and versatility.
Spring Drive GMT SBGE255 Ceramic Bezel in Blue
What we have here today are three similar takes on two Grand Seiko specialties – the Spring Drive movement and the GMT complication – presented in a very wearable 40.5 mm case size. Spring Drive is, of course, a mechanically powered movement that melds a fluidly sweeping seconds hand with quartz precision. In the case of these three watches, it's the cal. 9R66. Spring Drive is one of the most compelling technologies Seiko has developed to date and one that is often put to service by Grand Seiko. Quite honestly, there's nothing quite like it on the horological landscape. GMT watches are another GS specialty, with a range of styles to be found across its Spring Drive, quartz, Hi-Beat, and conventional-rate mechanical offerings.
Spring Drive GMT SBGE257 Ceramic Bezel in Green
With the new 40.5mm x 14.7mm GMTs available today in the HODINKEE Shop, Grand Seiko is offering a very wearable Spring Drive GMT option within the Sport line, and these compact traveler's watches are some of our absolute favorite Grand Seiko models to date.
Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 Ceramic Bezel in Black
Each offers a stunning color combination with a ceramic bezel that adds plenty of personality as well as scratch resistance to the equation. The cases are immaculately Zaratsu polished, of course, with bold beveled edges. The crown placement at four o'clock ensures a comfortable wearing experience for righties and lefties. This is particularly important, as these are some sporty watches that you will want to be active with. Did we mention that they are water resistant to 200 meters?
Spring Drive GMT SBGE255 Ceramic Bezel in Blue
The dials don't disappoint either. They feature a power-reserve indicator (72 hours) and a well-integrated date window, making for a harmonious and balanced display – no easy feat when integrating these extra elements into a design. The diamond polishing that has come to be regarded as a Grand Seiko calling card is on display to be enjoyed. The dial is the watch's interface, after all. It's what you look at most, even if you find yourself just glancing at your watch without even noting the time. And that might be another Grand Seiko specialty: inspiring watch lovers to tilt their wrists and admire a finely finished dial even when they don't really care to know the time. While pulling this off with a dress watch dial is one thing, making it work with sport models like this one feels like more of a challenge, and Grand Seiko has definitely risen to meet it.
Spring Drive GMT SBGE257 Ceramic Bezel in Green
The SBGE253 pairs a black dial and black ceramic bezel with a bright contrasting red GMT hand, a classic combination for Grand Seiko. The SBGE255 mixes things up by pairing a blue dial and blue ceramic bezel with a light blue 24-hour hand. There's plenty of contrast between the two blue hues to ensure great legibility. It's clearly been well thought out from a design standpoint, but it also has a charming capacity to catch you a bit off guard. The last thing it feels is obvious. At first, it seems like a GMT for summer, and one with real star potential at that, though its cool blue tones also vibe well with the energy of winter. The SBGE257 brings a third color of ceramic, green, to the mix and matches it with a green dial and a yellow 24-hour hand. Plus, all three new Spring Drive GMTs come on Grand Seiko bracelets that offer plenty of options for fine adjustment so that you can get the size just right.
Spring Drive GMT SBGE255 Ceramic Bezel in Blue
Grand Seiko has so much going for it on so many different levels that it's tough to think of any watch that ticks quite so many boxes, and the three models we have here today are perfect examples. The Grand Seiko SBGE253, SBGE255, and SBGE257 are available now, in the HODINKEE Shop, for a price of $6,200. You can explore each of these unique colorways in full-detail and make one your own right here.
Just in time for peak late-shopping season, Hermès has launched a new take on its long-standing Arceau men's watch. Called the Arceau Grande Lune, it's a 43mm case with a rich blue dial and a matching blue strap. The current Arceau line comes in a handful of versions in the 40-41mm range, and this new model not only offers a larger case size but also a full triple calendar with a moon-phase display.
Initial Thoughts
Based on a design that can trace its roots back to 1978 – when Henri d'Origny penned the original asymmetrical and equine-inspired Arceau – the new Arceau Grande Lune sticks closely to the path established by its forebearers by forming an elegant and unique take on a dressy steel watch. The new sizing includes a lovely sunburst-finished blue dial with steel-framed accents for the calendar displays that are mirrored by the steel-toned handset.
With sapphire crystals front and back, the Arceau Grande Lune uses a Swiss-made automatic movement that Hermès lists as being "not in-house." While no additional details were offered by the manufacturer, Watches by SJX has reported that the movement in question is an ETA 2982 with a calendar module. Given the price point and the generalist nature of the Arceau line (which also includes models that use quartz movements), the 2892 makes a solid choice for Hermès, especially given the need for a triple calendar and moon-phase complication set.
The Basics
Brand: Hermès Model: Arceau Grande Lune
Diameter: 43mm Case Material: Steel Dial Color: Blue Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather strap with fold-over clasp
The Movement
Caliber: ETA 2892 base with triple calendar module. Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, moon-phase Power Reserve: 42 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph
The terms "heritage" and "vintage-inspired" get bandied about often in the watch world. These words are meant to invoke feelings of a bygone era. Over the past decade, Longines has unleashed a torrent of vintage-inspired timepieces, from the Skin Diver to the Flagship – all mid-century designs updated for modern use and size preference. But heritage and vintage are not feelings. You know what packs a bigger emotional punch? Spirit. Enter the Longines Spirit line of watches, unveiled earlier this year
The Spirit line takes a different approach to vintage-inspired design. Instead of reissuing existing back-catalog models, Longines has gone back to the drawing board, creating an entirely new array of watches with a certain undefinable old-school charm that doesn't speak to any one single vintage model.
The Longines Spirit Chronograph is the epitome of what the Spirit collection represents. This is a large, 42mm, aviation-inspired, aquatically capable chronograph with a modern blue dial.
While the Spirit Chronograph comes in a few colorways (including a retro-evocative matte black), the blue-dial variant does the best job of straddling two eras. The overarching design brings to mind crackled leather A-2 bomber jackets, near translucent patinated typewriter paper, and the smell of jet fuel. The blue dial, however, with its pronounced sunray effect, careens in the other direction, coming across as something entirely modern.
You might think that the 42mm sizing is another modern flourish, but it actually plays into the watch's 1940s aviator aesthetic. Pilot's watches are historically large – so large, in fact, that they were intended to be strapped to the wearer's leg. While this watch won't fit on your leg, its size is certainly a nod to those classic pilot's watches of yesteryear.
This watch features three sub-dials: a small seconds counter, chronograph minute counter, and chronograph hour counter. The chronograph seconds hand is finished with a lacquer-like texture and a red flourish at the tip.
In terms of dial design, this one's a bit – how should we say this – busy. The Longines wordmark and applied logo sit above the word Chronometer and a set of five applied star markers. Next are the sub-dials, a 4:30 date window, and curved text reading Automatic. Add to this the chapter ring containing stylized vintage numerals and the Swiss Made text, and you have quite a party of words, sub-dials, and numerals. To be honest, you might not want a pilot taking in all of this information while operating a plane, but hey, it's there.
And yet, somehow, it's still legible. The large white applied numerals give the dial an added depth. The radial pattern on the sub-dials makes it easy to differentiate them against the blue sunray dial beneath. The lume on the numerals is impressive, and activates even in slightly shaded environments.
One interesting feature is the screw-down pusher on the case's underside. Unthreading and using this pusher changes the date. The crown, situated between the two chronograph pushers, features something that is becoming more and more present on watches nowadays: An audible ratcheting action during the unscrewing process, which adds a real premium feel to the watch overall.
Beating away inside is the L688.4, a chronometer-certified automatic chronograph movement. The L688.4 might be a modified ETA base, but it is nonetheless regulated to chronometer standards – an added benefit.
In true tool watch form, the Spirit Chronograph has a solid caseback with a nice globe engraving adding to the vintage-effect flare. Things get modern again, though, with the stitched blue leather strap (the watch is also available on a bracelet). The bracelet option might very well make this watch feel even more modern. After all, pilot's watches of yore were fitted almost exclusively to straps.
The Longines Spirit Chrono makes a statement whether you want it to or not. But it also serves its intended purpose well. At its core, this watch is a modernized, retro-inspired tool watch. You might never fly an airplane with it strapped to your leg, or take it on a shallow dive (it boasts a capable 100m water resistance), but sometimes, it's nice to know – if just for the fun of it – that your watch could handle those things if you needed it to.
The Longines Spirit Chronograph Ref. L3.820.4.93.0is a 100-meter water resistant watch. The Spirit Chronograph is 42mm in diameter, featuring a screw-down crown and closed caseback. Leather strap with signed buckle. Automatic caliberL688.4 movement with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of 54 hours. Sunray blue dial with applied markers and Super-LumiNova on hands and markers. Price: $3,100 For more,visit Longines.com.
Well over 70 years past its prime, the P-51 Mustang airplane is still considered one of the most beautiful military machines America has ever created. The perfectly proportioned design is met with admiration and fascination, despite its wartime roots. It was built for a very specific purpose: To establish air superiority and support Allied efforts in WWII. It was designed with pure functionality in mind, but a spillover benefit of functional design is that it can sometimes be beautiful.
Such is the case with the BENRUS Type I. The watch was originally designed to support the Underwater Demolition Divers and is the horological equivalent of the P-51 Mustang. It's built for ultimate functionality, but it's also unexpectedly beautiful. Originally produced from 1972-80, it's now been revived and improved by BENRUS in the modern era and is available once again. Except this time, a U.S. Navy special operations background isn't required. We think this is one of the best so-called "reissues" out there – one that doesn't simply riff off the original design and create something new "in the spirit of the original," but instead, really nails the details that made the original so attractive – and you can find it right here, in the HODINKEE Shop.
The BENRUS Type I Limited Edition
What's special about the Type I is what's not present, rather than what is. You won't find a novella on the dial, and you won't find any visual flourishings that don't serve a purpose. The dial is sterile, featuring stark toothpaste-white markers against a deep black background. The only text present isn't necessarily text at all – it's a 12-hour scale around the bi-directional bezel, reproduced in a font that BENRUS had created to exactly mimic the original.
Scholarship around American mid-century horology has remained limited compared to Swiss counterparts in the industry, but the modern BENRUS has certainly made tremendous strides in understanding and capturing the BENRUS of yore. For instance, the original Type I used a top-loading design where the movement was loaded in through the front and the crystal pressed in, facilitating a 30ATM depth rating. This design is unconventional compared to contemporary watches that used a traditional screw-in caseback; it was most likely a cost-saving measure.
It's important to remember that these watches were equipment produced for the military and designed with the end-user in mind – those end-users being special forces operators who certainly didn't care if the watch was pretty or not. Military equipment is produced to a much different standard than equipment for the civilian world. Walk into a brand new Boeing 787 commercial passenger airplane, and you'll notice rainbow LEDs, auto-dimming windows, and modern materials. Walk into a C-17 cargo plane the U.S. Air Force operates, and you'll notice nylon webbing for seats, exposed hydraulic lines, and nary a window in sight. The original Type I was produced like every piece of equipment destined for service in the armed forces: Built with value in mind, following strict production schedules, with an emphasis on usability.
That get-the-job-done philosophy has now been taken one step further. While keeping the appearance almost identical, the folks at BENRUS have improved aspects of the watch that can't be seen. The '72 design is often said to have a "monobloc" case construction. This means the one-piece case is milled from a single piece of metal, including the caseback. In fact, even though the movement was top-loading, the case construction was not monobloc. Instead, the caseback was stamped and glued in place on the original design. For the time, it was acceptable, but over time, this design would be susceptible to water ingress, shortening the useful life of the watch.
When BENRUS re-launched the watch, they had an opportunity to address this problem and improve on the design. The new watch uses a screwed-in caseback, which makes servicing possible and supports much better, longer-lasting water resistance. The good news? It still carries the aesthetic of the original model, so there's a sense of authenticity without reproducing a flawed design. Even the same text appears on the caseback as the original, but the production dates and serial numbers have been updated.
The original design featured an acrylic overlay bezel, but now that the watch has been around for over 40 years, we know that this design is prone to damage over the long run. Acrylic suffers from deterioration over time, as it's essentially a plastic. Designers addressed this with the rebooted version, electing to use an aluminum insert instead. Aluminum is impervious to damage from the elements in a way the acrylic simply isn't.
Additionally, the case material has been improved. The original watch utilized a ferrous alloy that was "parkerized" for durability and weather resistance. Again, this watch was originally produced with short-term performance in mind. U.S. Navy UDT/SEALs, U.S. Navy EOD, U.S. Navy Divers, Army Rangers, Green Berets, and CIA operatives needed the watch to get the job done – it was never meant to be a collectible piece of horology. Using a ferrous alloy instead of stainless steel (which typically lasts much longer) was a totally acceptable design choice when the watch was created in the '70s, but with the reboot, there was an opportunity to address the shortcomings of the original design. Now, it's rendered in 316L steel and blasted to a finish that mimics the original.
Another feature of the original case that's been improved is its use of fixed spring bars. This was cheaper and easier from a production standpoint, but it's quite limiting when it comes to strap options. The original only facilitated a single nylon pass-through strap, and again, the watch wasn't intended for horology enthusiasts when it was initially created. But a second chance at getting a design right rarely happens, so when it does, one must exercise prudence and a commitment to improvement. The new design uses traditional spring bars, which allow for a large selection of straps to be used; now the watch is far more versatile.
Discover Your New Favorite Watch For Civilian Missions In The HODINKEE Shop
The BENRUS Type I is special in that it was designed for operators and service members during a very specific era of American history. It was an incredibly successful design during its time in service, and with the improvements over the original design, the relaunched BENRUS Type I is ready for the toughest civilian missions. You can learn more about the BENRUS Type I and purchase one for $1,695 right now, in the HODINKEE Shop.
