Baltic is a relatively young brand with relatively unconventional beginnings. Its founder, Etienne Malec, took the risk of launching the company on Kickstarter in 2017 with two models – the Bicompax and HMS – and it paid off. Today, the Bicompax and HMS have become two of the brand's staple collections, and it's since added a third: the Aquascaphe. 

Baltic first introduced the Aquascaphe back in 2018 as its debut dive watch offering. Today, the brand has built on this popular design with the addition of GMT functionality while retaining the midcentury charm of the beloved diver. We're excited to welcome Baltic to the HODINKEE Shop with the Aquascaphe GMT. 

A Brief Backstory On Baltic

Baltic's founder, Etienne Malec, inherited a passion for watch collecting from his father, but not in the way you'd expect. Malec didn't have the chance to know his father well, but he got the unique opportunity to connect with him through his watch collection journal. Here, Malec's father kept track of every watch he touched throughout his lifetime – the history, the price, the seller, or even the trade in the event of a barter. For Malec, the journal served as a treasure map, leading him to other collectors and eventually a collection of his own. 

Over the course of 15 years, he developed the most sincere passion for watches, and this became the impetus to create the Baltic brand. The name perfectly honors his father, a photographer who hailed from northern Poland along the Baltic Sea. And, the watches themselves draw from his father's collection, with a distinctly vintage aesthetic and a timeless style intended to spark the same desire and fascination in future generations of watch collectors. The rich history of a brand only three years old is pretty astounding, and it shines through in each Baltic watch, in particular the latest addition to the catalog: the Aquascaphe GMT.

Foundations Of The Aquascaphe Collection

The Aquascaphe watches perfectly reflect Malec's vision and commitment to honor the heritage of traditional watchmaking by incorporating vintage elements, like drilled lugs and a double domed sapphire crystal. Despite the design aesthetic of a midcentury diver, the Aquascaphe models still offer modern functionality. The same double domed sapphire crystal, in combination with a screw down crown, makes the Aquascaphe a collection of true tool watches. 

Baltic places equal attention on both usability and legibility, with a straightforward layout, lightweight font, and minimal text. Yet, the overall simplicity of the design doesn't come at the expense of attention to detail. Baltic incorporates thoughtful elements within those principles of functionality and legibility, like triangle markers at three, six, and nine o'clock. The result is a carefully crafted and refreshingly balanced diver that's clearly born from the heart of a true watch enthusiast. 

The Aquascaphe GMT

With the new Aquascaphe GMT variant, you get all the look, feel, and utility you've come to love and expect from the Aquascaphe line with a few upgrades. First, you'll notice each model features a deep black dial with a glossy finish in place of the more grainy texture of the diver's black dial. This new finish adds a notable depth to the dial as well as a subtle elegance to an otherwise sporty watch. Both of these elements, the black color and the finish, are highly intentional on Baltic's part to ensure optimal readability. The brand's guiding principle here was making it as clean and balanced as possible. However, you still get the thoughtful dial layout of the classic diver, with triangle markers opposite each other at three and nine o'clock along with large circular shapes at the other hour markers, further creating an easy-to-read design. 

The Aquascaphe GMT also comes equipped with the same double domed sapphire crystal for a vintage touch and robust build. This, paired with a 39mm, 316L stainless steel case, gives the Aquascaphe GMT a strong presence on the wrist, yet a sophisticated and surprisingly slim profile of just 10mm (or 12mm, including the glass). The line offers the option of either a stainless steel bracelet or a rubber strap. With the bracelet design, we see the same "beads of rice" style from the original Aquascaphe diver, which drives home the distinctly 1960s look and feel of the watch. Yet, the performance of the bracelet is equally impressive. It features a buckle with seven micro-adjustment positions to fit any wrist size. Alternatively, the rubber strap features a tropic style and soft, lightweight design. Both variants, the bracelet and the strap, make the Aquascaphe GMT extremely comfortable to wear. 

Another key area of focus for the Aquascaphe GMT is the bezel. Right off the bat, you'll notice the bold colorway compared to previous models in the Aquascaphe collection. Here, you get three two-tone variations, each with a base of deep blue and the option of green, orange, or a more subtle grey for the second color. While this undoubtedly adds aesthetic interest and an overtly playful tone to the collection, the choice is, once more, rooted in the interest of high functionality. The two-tone bezel design seamlessly distinguishes between day and night hours. In place of the previous unidirectional dive bezel, the Aquascaphe GMT is equipped with a new 24 clicks bidirectional rotating bezel, which facilitates the read of a second time zone along with the fourth hand on the dial. 

This, of course, brings us to the focal point of the Aquascaphe GMT: the GMT hand itself. This fourth hand can be effortlessly operated via the large, easily adjustable crown. It rotates in 24 hours around the dial and uses the bezel's graduation to allow direct and precise reading of a second time zone. Along with the GMT functionality, this model gets the addition of a date aperture. With this complication, Baltic further demonstrates the union of form and function with the date window perfectly balancing the dial by its placement at six o'clock in place of the triangle marker on the original diver. To power the new functionality of the GMT and date complications, Baltic has chosen to use a Swiss movement from the Soprod manufacturer. The C125 is an automatic movement known for its robustness, reliability, and precision, and it offers a power reserve of 42 hours. Altogether, this particular watch offers one of the strongest value propositions of this year – you get a great GMT function on either a stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap for just over $1,000. 

Discover The New Aquascaphe GMT In The HODINKEE Shop

At this price point, no GMT seems to marry form and function quite as eloquently as Baltic's Aquascaphe GMT. This is an admirable tool watch with a straightforward design that's highly utilitarian yet equal parts classic and playful. If you're looking for a quintessential dual-timer, the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT fits the bill. However, what really sets this watch apart can't be categorized on a spec sheet. 

The Aquascaphe GMT reminds us that what makes a great watch is far more than aesthetic or utility. What makes a great watch is a great story, and the foundation on which the Baltic brand and this watch were built provides just that. The Aquascaphe GMT isn't just another affordable dual-timer. It's a conversation piece. It's the next destination on the treasure map you're creating for future generations with your watch collection. Continue writing your story with the Aquascaphe GMT by heading over to the HODINKEE Shop. 

Quick Take

You thought turtles were slow, right?  If you want to score the $125 retail Timex x Noah watch this Black Friday, you'll have to point your browser to Ebay (where one sits at $400), Grailed ($1,000), or some other resale platform and pony up, because this one went fast. Buzzy collaborations selling out quickly isn't exactly a new thing, but I'd be lying if I told you I wasn't a bit surprised to see that this one, which launched at 11 AM Thanksgiving morning, was gone by 11:09. You know Timex, of course, but what's Noah and what the heck is this watch all about?

In the five years since Brendon Babenzien restarted Noah – a New York-based apparel brand with other locations in London, Los Angeles, Tokyo, and Osaka – the company has established itself as quite a bit more than just a popular fashion line with a vibe that blends downtown New York with preppy leisure influences. Babenzien, who was for years the creative director of Supreme, has built a company that strives to be a socially conscious brand with ethically sourced products and materials. I like the store's designs – the New York flagship is close to HODINKEE HQ – and have ventured in once or twice. Those Noah baseball caps are everywhere, the kind of item you start spotting on your cooler friends' heads once you know what to look for. 

I only got a sense for what Noah was beyond selling hats when I read a piece in the online magazine Maekan. In it, the author, David Kenji Chang, compares Noah and its founder to the protest folk music hero Woody Guthrie, whose familiar and accessible melodies often concealed a trenchant message. A comfy and cozy wrapping Noah may seem, but look closer and you'll discover a principled stance when it comes to how products are sourced and how workers and the environment are affected. "This is as much a weapon of war as it is a business in my opinion," Babenzien told Chang. "It is very much built into the DNA of the business that this company has to do good," he went on.

So I wasn't really surprised to see that Noah's collaboration with Timex – a watch featuring a knife-wielding, bird-flipping turtle on its dial – was made not just to look cool and make you smile, but to raise awareness and funds for an issue that plagues the world's oceans. Not the swirling nation-state-sized plastic gyre in the Pacific where much of our unrecycled waste ends up, but something I actually hadn't heard of. Ghost nets, as they are known, are discarded fishing nets that trap aquatic life and drown them. Apparently the ocean is littered with such debris, and they perform the job they were designed to do – catching animals – quite effectively long after fishermen discard them. The turtle hero on Noah and Timex's watch wields his knife so that he can free his marine buddies from such netting should they get caught.

The stainless steel watch comes in the classic 38mm Waterbury case with a blue recycled nylon strap provided by SpinDye, a maker of sustainable polyester yarns and fabrics for the fashion industry. On the back is a straightforward message: GHOST NETS SUCK!

Initial Thoughts

This is a fun watch that made me smile when I read the press release. It costs $125, with 10 percent of proceeds going to Ocean Defenders, a non-profit organization actively removing debris from the oceans off California and Hawaii. Its intentionally playful design might interest those who are into the Noah brand or character watches more broadly, but it also aims to do a bit of good in the process, offering the same basic functionality that you'd expect from a Timex Waterbury watch in terms of its Indigo display, accurate quartz movement, and water resistance to 50 meters.

I'd actually hoped to snag one of these guys for myself, but with prices sitting where they are at this writing, it's looking like it's going to be much less of an impulse purchase.

The Basics

Brand: Timex
Model: Timex x Noah
Reference Number: TW2U70500

Diameter: 38mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: White with white and blue turtle
Lume: Indiglo
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: SpinDye nylon strap

The Movement

Caliber: Timex quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes

Pricing & Availability

Price: $125 (10% of proceeds go to Ocean Defenders)
Availability: Sold out, with examples available on secondary market.

For more, visit Noah.

Each week, our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.

What Is 'Reality Shifting' And Why Is It Taking Over TikTok? – I.D by Vice

In this strangest of years, one of the stranger trends I’ve read about is a phenomenon called “reality shifting” or just plain “shifting” to its fans. Shifting is a way of inducing a mental state similar to lucid dreaming, in which one enters a dreamlike state of consciousness, but with the ability to determine and direct what happens. There are a couple of popular techniques for inducing this alternate state of consciousness and oddly enough, a huge shifting community has grown up on Tik Tok, where a disproportionately large number of practitioners apparently use shifting to travel to Hogwarts and enjoy the company, specifically, of Draco Malfoy. Teenagers using an adaptation of ancient shamanistic techniques to travel to wizard school and hang out with the bad boy … you can’t make this stuff up.

– Jack Forster, Editor-In-Chief 

Look Back At The Iconic Tapestries Of Alexander Calder – Architectural Digest

Artist Alexander Calder is best known for having invented the mobile. His abstract sculptures swing and sway, typically overhead, and I find them utterly captivating. But despite considering Calder one of my favorite artists, I had no idea that he also made two-dimensional woven works and that they're having something of a moment right now. This short piece from Architectural Digest shines a spotlight on these lesser-known tapestries, why they're suddenly in vogue, and how they fit into the bigger Calder picture. Count me in. 

– Stephen Pulvirent, Manager of Editorial Products

If Wes Anderson Designed The Interiors Of The Simpsons – Home Advisor

I am not entirely sure how to qualify what this is. It might be a clever piece of marketing or a really overproduced mood board, but nonetheless, I found myself scrolling through it. Home Advisor seems to have decided that there was a need to meld Wes Anderson with The Simpsons. In filling that void, it has recreated all of the settings from the animated series – in real-world environments – decorated in full Anderson décor. From the Simpson household to Moe's Pub and even Mr. Burns office, it's all there. Sometimes fun content can just be fun content, and that's what this is. I don't think I needed this, but I also can't say that I hate that it exists, either. 

– Danny Milton, Editor

A Nameless Hiker And The Case The Internet Can't Crack – Wired

An unidentified body in the wilds of Florida, a Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy reference, and a DNA trail leading essentially nowhere. This story doesn’t quite have an ending – or a beginning for that matter, but it is certainly captivating. The death of a through-hiker and the internet’s failed attempts to ID him reminds us that even in the era of internet sleuthing and advanced forensics, there are still mysteries that can’t be solved easily, and the Appalachian Trail is full of them.

– Cole Pennington, Editor

What's Up With Everyone's Small Wooden Stools – Ssense 

In an age where it feels like disposable IKEA furniture dominates, a new trend is beginning to emerge. The "tiny wooden stool phenomenon" is intentionally imperfect, nonchalant, and made for Instagram. Focusing on organic textures, international handcrafts, and a collected style, this is perhaps the next wave of Scandinavian minimalism. 

As a problematic collector of vintage chairs and "found" objects, I live for the hours spent walking flea market aisles, rummaging through estate sale closets, and treasure hunting at small-town thrift stores. In so many ways, this handmade aesthetic is central to my own design style. But am I collecting stories of the Nana who long ago brought a set of three hand-carved wooden chairs with her on a voyage from Austria to Canada to hold onto this piece of history, or simply for the social media photo op? 

In almost every case, handcrafts were created for a different place and time - a reaction to the broader cultural context. Do we question the fact that we rarely think about why we are purchasing objects - both new and old - without considering where they came from and the stories they tell? Perhaps it is time we reconsider. 

– Sarah Reid, Advertising Manager 

Lead image via Home Advisor (linked above). 

Visit the full article at HODINKEE.com

Some of the most fascinating watches come from times of transition and, in the era following the Second World War, Hamilton created the Electric 500 – the first watch ever to use a battery-powered movement. Marking a waypoint on the road to the eventual quartz crisis, this Hamilton also marks a passing moment in time, when an American watchmaker was operating at the bleeding edge of current technology. 

Written by Jack more than four years ago, this is an electrifying story (if you'll allow the pun) that covers the creation of a very specialized watch movement that looks much more like a traditional mechanical movement than it does a modern quartz movement. Operating with the help of a moving coil, the Model 500 was complex and hit the market in 1957, just a few years before Bulova and their tuning fork watches that also used batteries. For the full story, hit the link below.  

Click here to read: "Historical Perspectives: The Amazing Made-In-America Hamilton Electric, The World's First Battery Powered Watch".

If you're one of the 10,000+ people to have registered interest in hopes of scoring a Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary model, it's safe to say that the odds aren't in your favor. But with this latest development, you can't say that Mr. Dufour doesn't want to at least give you a fair chance. After the first ten were spoken for (not to mention the prototype #00 of 20 which sold via Phillips on November 8 for a whopping CHF 1,361,000), Dufour and his recently-named commercial partner Claude Sfeir have committed the final ten allotments to an upcoming lottery. 

True to form – waitlists and VIP status be damned – Dufour will be conducting the lottery under the watchful eye of an independent bailiff. For those not paying attention, Philippe Dufour is producing a total of 22 Simplicity 20th Anniversary models, with #00 being auctioned in the aforementioned Phillips sale and #21 being kept by Dufour himself. The demand for the resulting 20 pieces was nothing short of massive and, while originally Dufour had announced that only one watch would be sold to any one country, the move to a lottery ensures that the outcome is as fair as possible. 

With this new format deciding the fate of the final ten examples, all bets are off (or on?) as to who will get to lay claim to one of these incredible watches. 

Click here to read more about the Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary watches.

It's that time of year again! There's a chill in the air, the end of November is here, and a brand new Swatch Limited Edition on the horizon. The Generation 1990 marks our fifth collaboration with Swatch, yet, somehow, the work never gets old. That's the beauty of partnering with such a dynamic and creative company – endless opportunities. 

With our latest release, we continue to build on Swatch's popular mechanical SISTEM51 in a new colorway featuring five bold hues that are both seasonal and unconventional. The combination of the rich green case and textured navy dial allow the vibrant pale grey, lime green, and light pink accents to really pop. Altogether, it perfectly highlights our favorite part of the watch: the California dial. This unique design pairs Roman numerals on the top portion of the dial with Arabic numerals on the lower half, creating visual interest and easy readability. At just $170, the search to find that perfect gift is over – the SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE GENERATION 1990 is available now in the HODINKEE Shop.  

The Spirit of the '90s Meets Winter Vibes

The year 1990 marked a new decade, "The Good Decade," a decade we continue to look back on fondly. Within the watch space, 1990 was also a significant year. It marked a new era for mechanical watches and the Swiss watch industry as we know it. Yet, it took time for the '90s to develop the character and spirit we remember today. It took time for the mechanical watch to reestablish and reassert itself on the wrists of collectors around the world.  

It wouldn't be until 1991 that SWATCH would debut its first mechanical example with the Swatch Automatic. The two models released at the initial introduction of the Swatch Automatic housed a simple self-winding movement from ETA, the ETA 2842. This workhorse movement ran in 23 jewels and utilized components that were manufactured with conventional industrial processes, as opposed to SISTEM51, which uses machining processes specifically developed for the model. Notably, this little mechanical marvel was visible through a plastic display back, literally showcasing a new era for Swatch timepieces and introducing countless people to the world of mechanical watchmaking. While the design of our watch was influenced by a model that predates the introduction of the original Swatch Automatic, we feel the Generation 1990 represents the zeitgeist of the early 1990s, with the perfect blend of visual dynamism and energy that we need to usher us through the 2020 holiday season and into a new year.  

The California Dial

When designing the Generation 1990, we wanted to draw on elements rooted in watchmaking history. One of the first pieces of inspiration that rose to the surface was the California dial. This unique configuration features an intermix of hour markers made up of both Roman and Arabic numerals. Traditionally, the Roman numerals appear on the top portion of the dial and the Arabic numerals appear on the lower half, with batons at three, six, and nine o'clock and an inverted triangle at 12. What attracted us to this eye-catching layout was not only the visual interest for the wearer but also the ability to play with typography.  

Swatch used this unique dial design on only one watch in their expansive catalog: the Stirling Rush GX407. This one-of-a-kind model from 1990 immediately stood out to us and ultimately became the base on which we built the Generation 1990. Aside from the allure of the California dial, the Stirling Rush was a relatively subdued model for Swatch. It featured a white case and dial with a deep green leather strap and indices along with a small pop of red on the seconds hand. 

We switched things up on the Generation 1990, incorporating a fresh color scheme that reflects Swatch's exuberant nature while elevating the original aesthetic to new, contemporary heights. The green hue provides a nice twist on a more common blue or black case. In addition, the subtle grained texture of the navy dial provides an interesting spin on the sunburst finish you may remember from our first collaboration with Swatch, the SISTEM51 HODINKEE Vintage 84, which pulled its design inspiration from a watch in Swatch's second-ever collection. Another striking parallel between these two models is the slope of the chapter ring, which adds a nice dimension to the dial. In contrast, with the hour markers, hands, and indices, we get a more playful range of pale grey, lime green, and light pink that reflect the distinctly vibrant spirit of Swatch.  

Let's Get Technical

As if the California dial and all-new colorway weren't enough, the back of the watch is just as much a show point as the front. Inside the Generation 1990 is the automatic SISTEM51 caliber with a Nivachron™ balance spring, which is a titanium-based alloy that's resistant to magnetism, shocks, aging, and temperature variation. It offers 30 meters of water resistance, an impressive 90-hour power reserve, and the added bonus of a date complication, which is located at six o'clock on the dial. The SISTEM51 is visible in all its glory through the exhibition caseback. 

Here, you'll notice a new design featuring a fully transparent rotor plate with our signature "H" pattern around the periphery. To achieve this unique visual and functional element, Swatch uses a solid piece of synthetic material charged with half-weighted tungsten, as opposed to the traditional half rotor. Through the transparent rotor, you have a part view of the mechanism, which showcases the beauty of the movement.  

The Fine Print

We can't say enough good things about partnering with Swatch. It's been incredible to witness the evolution of our collaboration over the course of four years and five watches, and we couldn't be more excited to bring you the SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE GENERATION 1990. The combination of elements, incorporating watchmaking history and new colorways, is something we love playing with and look forward to bringing you more of as we continue to push the boundaries of our creativity and designs. Whether this is your first Swatch or yet another addition to your Swatch collection, we hope the SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE GENERATION 1990 brings you the same sense of joy and levity we feel this watch embodies. 

The SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE GENERATION 1990 is available now in the HODINKEE Shop for $170 with free domestic shipping and reduced cost international shipping. This is not a numbered edition, but quantities are limited, so head over to the HODINKEE Shop to purchase yours today! 

Quick Take

Of the many things that Oris does well, few elements sit more front and center within its modern line up than its continued use of bronze and a fascination with rich and distinctive colors. For the brand's latest collaboration with our friends at Fratello Watches, we see a special combination of these two elements come together in a limited edition Big Crown Pointer Date that sports a bronze case and deep red dial. With a unique wrist presence and tons of personality, this Pointer Date is limited to 300 pieces that will be split between Fratello and Oris' own boutiques. 

Initial Thoughts

For me, the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is best with a boldly colorful dial. From desaturated blues to the gorgeous flat green of the 80th Anniversary model, and of course, the oxblood red I covered from Baselworld 2019, the old-world format and style of the Pointer Date lends a sort of quiet confidence whereby the use of color feels modern, youthful, and most importantly, fun. Clearly, the folks at Fratello feel somewhat similar, as their latest collaboration with Oris uses a bronze case (which we have seen before) and pairs it with a special evolution of Oris' deeply red dial. 

Holding steady at 40mm wide, the new Oris Big Crown Pointer Date x Fratello Limited Edition may be of a similar color to that of the original red-dial Big Crown Pointer Date, but the dial has been tweaked to better align with the aesthetic provided by the bronze case. The minute and date track have been rendered in a gilt effect, which is also matched by a gold-tone handset and brand signature. Also, where the original shows "Automatic" on the dial at six o'clock, the Fratello LE says "Anti-Shock." The golden tone of these small changes warms the dial considerably and makes this uncommon pairing (a red dial with a bronze case) much more successful than I think it would have been with the original dial. 

Speaking more directly to the coloring, I would call this a crimson red, and there were two things that I learned from spending a few days with the watch. First, the reddish-brown color is dark but it's almost never black. Those of you who buy watches with non-black dials will likely know that this is not common as most dark-toned dials can appear black in indirect light. For this Oris, in all but legitimately dark environments, some of the red always comes through. Second, the white Arabic numerals offer a remarkable amount of contrast, and almost always appear to be glowing above the rich backdrop of the dial (lume or not). 

It can be easy to get carried away when modifying an existing watch (trust me, my photoshop folder is a mess of over-designed re-workings of existing watches), but I think the team at Fratello has done a lovely job making this a Pointer Date all their own without compromising any of the elements that make the standard Pointer Date such a great watch. The luminous cathedral hands remain, as does the titular big crown, the bubble domed sapphire crystal, the red accent on the date hand, and the traditional coin edge bezel. But, in looking at the original red/steel model (shown above) and this new limited edition, the watches are surprisingly different in their end result. 

Styling aside, the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date x Fratello Limited Edition is limited to 300 units, with 250 being sold directly via Fratello Watches and the remaining 50 to be sold through Oris' own boutiques. Each watch comes with both a taupe leather strap and a grey NATO strap (both with bronze hardware) and will ship in an oxblood red Oris box. Pricing, which includes VAT, is €1,950, which converts to roughly $2,315. 

Given the pair of straps and the limited production run, this price seems entirely in line with Oris' current offerings (a bronze pointer date on leather retails for $2,100) and, with some tasteful tweaks via Fratello, I think they have a winner on their hands. Offering a classic format with a few unique traits and the fun of the ever-patinating case, this bronze and red Oris looks like a perfect tool for counting down the days until Christmas. 

The Basics

Brand: Oris
Model: Big Crown Pointer Date x Fratello Limited Edition  

Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 12mm
Lug to lug: 48mm
Case Material: Bronze, steel caseback
Dial Color: Red
Indexes: Arabic, painted
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Includes both a taupe leather quick-release strap with a bronze buckle and a grey NATO with bronze hardware. 

The Movement

Caliber: Oris 754, base Sellita SW 200-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, central pointer date
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph

Pricing & Availability

Price:  €1,950 (including VAT, raw conversion to ~ $2,315).
Availability: 250 units available via Fratello Watches, 50 available via Oris boutiques.
Limited Edition: 300 pieces

For more, click here.

To say that Ressence has figured among the more compelling and different independent watchmakers of recent times feels like an understatement, because in truth, it's been revolutionary. One struggles to think of a single brand that's broken out in a bigger way over the last decade with such a brand-defining look and a technology.

Established by the Belgian industrial designer Benoit Mintiens in 2010, Ressence distinguished itself from the start not by following a playbook written by any previous watchmaker, independent or otherwise, but by rethinking what a fine wristwatch could be and reinterpreting the traditional watch display. For all of the creativity, in-house manufacturing, and proprietary movement design and construction one sees today in high-end watchmaking, it is worth considering the extent to which most analog watches share essentially the same display type. With the groundbreaking ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System), Ressence established early on that it would show the time in a completely different way, yet one that was also highly intuitive – no easy feat. And while Ressence has received widespread validation from watch collectors and the horological cognoscenti, it comes as little surprise that it has also established itself as a maker of design objects with a following in the art and design worlds.

To mark its first decade, Ressence has been reinterpreting the models that defined its first 10 years with the new Collection X limited editions. Each of these limited editions of 40 pieces has managed to evince the charm of the original Ressence that inspired it while providing a twist in terms of its design or feature set. For the newest timepiece in the Collection X, Ressence has teamed up with the award-winning Austrian-born, New York-based designer and Ressence client Stefan Sagmeister, whose previous design work has included clients such as The Rolling Stones, HBO, and the Guggenheim Museum. We're thrilled to offer the latest model in the Ressence Collection X here in the HODINKEE Shop.

Sagmeister has reinterpreted the design of the 2013 Ressence Type 3 watch – the first mechanical timepiece ever to be filled with oil. Central to the new design is a theme from Sagmeister's work that takes the form of three words stated right along the minutes chapter on the Type 3X dial: "Now Is Better." 

Recent events and a news cycle dominated by social media may have cast doubt on such optimistic declarations, but taking the long view, one can see that there have always been trying times throughout human history. And yet, for more and more people in the world, life really is better now than it was 50, 100, or 200 years ago. The perspective of the long-term view is what enables us to see this.

Taking a longer-term view of time and how it unfolds is central to the Type 3X. Take, for example, the unusual date indicator. Whereas the Type 3 showed the date in a familiar numbered format on the very periphery of the dial, the Type 3X has evolved this display to prioritize the gradual waxing and waning of months. Along the edge of the dial, one will see a series of small hash marks, 140 orange or 140 blue. And as each day comes and goes, these marks shift from blue to orange and back to blue, so that there are blue days and orange days. This constant change from day to day serves as a reminder of the continuous passage of time. There is always one hash mark among these shifting colors that contrasts with all the others. This subtle blue or orange mark, which travels the circumference of the dial every 30 days, tells the wearer where the current date is in any given month. When the contrasting hash mark aligns with the 45-minute position, for example, the wearer can quickly see that ¾ of the month has passed. In this way, knowing the exact date takes a bit of a backseat to the longer view of one's progress through a 30-day month. Both the oil temperature indicator, as seen in the original Type 3, and the display for the day share the same hash marks as the date, and the font for the hour numerals also takes on a distinctive look, with the "10" replaced by Ressence's tenth-anniversary logo. Visual continuity with the rest of the limited edition Collection comes in the form of a dark olive-green color palette.

As with the original Ressence Type 3, the Type 3X also has a distinctive oil-filled display that results in a water drop dial effect. This makes for a crystal clear display of impressive legibility that takes advantage of the full curvature of the sapphire crystal to impart information. Working with oil required Ressence to create a hermetically sealed two-chamber system. The lower chamber contains the customized automatic movement, and the upper chamber houses the 215-component ROCS system bathing in oil. But how do the two systems interact with each other when they are divided into two separate chambers? For this, Ressence found a solution in the form of magnets. Customarily the bane of mechanical watches, in the case of the Type 3 and Type 3X, magnets connect the movement to the display and make the whole system work. On the titanium caseback, you can see both the Ressence name and that of Stefan Sagmeister.

The redesigned, olive-green toned dial is darkened by the presence of oil in the case and paired with a dark olive-green strap. This, paired with the polished grade-5 titanium case, makes for a watch that instantly recalls the original Type 3, an early and important watch in Ressence's history. It marked a point when Ressence showed it could succeed at designs that had eluded traditional watchmakers who had been around for many times as long. It excites us as much today as it did seven years ago. For more about the Ressence Type 3X, visit the HODINKEE Shop.

The Ressence Type 3X is available for purchase today and will ship in mid-December.

Two weeks ago, the HODINKEE editors got together to debate and create the definitive list of the world's best watch nicknames. In true WFH fashion, we duked it out over Zoom (in an entertaining call that we wish we had recorded, but sadly did not). We compiled a list of all the nicknames we knew, then whittled it down to a robust dozen – though not without some difficult cuts along the way.

When we published our choices, we also opened voting up to you – the HODINKEE Community – to name The People's Champion. This gave you the coveted opportunity to call us fools for omitting "Batman," but did not allow you to vote for "Moonwatch" (in reference to the Omega Speedmaster) – a nickname deemed ineligible because it is an official brand moniker. Our list, our rules, baby! In the end, we offered up a slightly larger list of 20 nicknames for you to vote on. 

Hundreds of you participated in the voting process, resulting in some tight races. When it was all said and done, however, a clear top three emerged. In third place was "Snowflake" – a name attributed to both Tudor and Grand Seiko models (the former for the shape of the hour hand, and the latter for the dial texture). Bear in mind that "Snowflake" just squeaked into the third spot, with some strong contenders barely missing the podium. 

Coming in second place – and a strong second place at that – was "Batman." This is the nickname for the modern, albeit recently discontinued, Rolex GMT-Master II – so given for its blue and black (a la The Dark Knight) bi-color bezel. But these two choices stood no chance against the champion, which nearly doubled the next highest vote-getter.

In the end, your winner was our winner: "Pepsi," most commonly used in reference to the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II (both vintage and modern) because of its red and blue color scheme. The name has since become synonymous with any watch featuring a red/blue bi-color bezel. Even the Tudor Black Bay GMT is sometimes called the "Diet Pepsi." 

Nicknames are meant to be fun, and this one's as fun as it gets. Rolex would never call its own watch a "Pepsi." No, that was left to us – the watch loving public. We did that. 

So there you have it, "Pepsi" stands as the HODINKEE Community's definitive "People's Champion." May it continue to spread by word of mouth to new enthusiasts for years to come. Thanks to everyone for participating, and keep a lookout for more chances to lend your voice in the future.  

Missed your chance to vote? Share your favorite watch nickname in the comments below.  

Putting the professional precision and functionality of G-SHOCK's latest MASTER OF G timepieces to the test doesn’t require a hard-core adventure...but it helps.

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review, and tell us which guests we should have on!

As far as I can tell, Cindy Crawford was the very first modern watch brand ambassador. Sure, Rolex featured famous athletes and explorers in their advertisements, and occasionally a brand would land a product placement deal with a major Hollywood blockbuster. But when Crawford signed on with Omega in 1995, not only did she start a now-25-year relationship that would see her design watches, travel the globe speaking about them, and partner with Omega on philanthropic work – she also changed the watch industry forever.

So when I had the chance to sit down and chat with Crawford a few weeks ago, I had a mountain of questions about those early days. What was it like being approached by a watch company before that was de rigueur for a person of her stature? When did she take her first trip to the Omega manufacture, and what does she remember about seeing serious watchmaking for the first time? Which design elements of the famous Constellation actually came from her? I got answers to most of those questions, but I also got quite a few stories I hadn't bargained for: Memories of picnics on Swiss mountaintops with none other than Jean-Claude Biver (who was in the midst of revolutionizing watch marketing as the head of Omega), that time she jokingly told Nicholas G. Hayek Sr. that she really wanted a platinum Constellation (and, spoiler alert, he made it for her), and a whole lot more.

In addition to talking about the minutiae of watchmaking and luxury marketing, we also got into Crawford's early days working in cornfields and aspiring to be president, why the early '90s were the perfect time for the emergence of supermodels, and how she has turned her career into a platform for having a voice and making a difference. "I've always said that modeling is what I do, it's not who I am."

We hope you enjoy Episode 114 of HODINKEE Radio. Be sure to check out the show notes, and let us know what you think in the comments below.

Show Notes

(19:45) Cindy's Career With Omega

(20:00) Herb Ritts

(21:00) HODINKEE Radio: Episode 25: Jean-Claude Biver And Joe Thompson (Live From HODINKEE 10)

(27:45) Omega's Constellation Watches

(34:10) Orbis International

(36:55) Cindy's Shotgun Wedding By David Yarrow

(38:30) "The Supermodels" Documentary

(43:00) Cindy Crawford Throughout the Years in Vogue

(43:30)  @cindycrawford

(44:05) @kaiagerber

Hey all. As we've promised over the past few months, we really want everyone to know what HODINKEE is up to in every way, and this is no different. I am so pleased to announce that, as of today, Mr. Toby Bateman, a longtime friend of mine (and even longer friend of HODINKEE's) will be taking over as Chief Executive Officer. For those who don't know him, he's one of the most thoughtful, tasteful men around – formerly leading Mr. Porter as its Managing Director – and someone for whom watches are a lifelong passion. Beyond that, he's just one of the best people in the business. 

Now some of you might be asking, "wait, does that mean Ben is retiring to some tropical island somewhere?" Negative, although sometimes I wish I could. What this means is that I'll move into a role that allows me to focus on what I love the most about HODINKEE – the stories that got me excited about this business in the first place. You'll see me more present on the site, in videos, and out there engaging with you, the community. 

It's funny, as CEO I briefly fell out of love with watches. That didn't feel right. Watches should bring me, and you, joy! With Toby taking over as chief executive, I'm able to fall more in love with this category than ever before. Hell, to celebrate this transition into an executive chairman role, I treated myself to a vintage Daytona. I hadn't bought a vintage Rolex in years. And you know what? It felt great. So now, having built HODINKEE from a blog to a website to a magazine to an authorized dealer of more than 25 of the best brands in the world to your trusted source for watch content and commerce, I can finally take a step back and focus on the things that bring me joy. 

In addition to Toby, we've hired a new head of editorial – Nick Marino, who spent 18 years in newspapers and magazines (including a long stretch at GQ) before moving on to Apple, Levi's, and now us. Along the way, as you may have seen, we raised some money. What this means is that we'll simply be able to do what we do, but better. We've seen some amazing growth over the past decade. With positive growth comes top-tier investors that include the likes of TCG, True Ventures, Future Shape, GV, LVMH Luxury Ventures, our old friend John Mayer, and even Super Bowl champ Tom Brady! The team we have working with us is the best there is — and we can't wait to show you what's in store.

Also, I'd like to mention that we witnessed one of those "only in the watch world" insta-kerfuffles a few weeks back, regarding working with LLV. I want to clarify that. LVMH Luxury Ventures is an independent investment vehicle, of which there are dozens, that is completely separate from the publicly traded LVMH. The investment arm looks at businesses they think are interesting and show potential. To use a term from that world, this is a pure equity investment, and a small one. They are one of a few dozen people on our cap table – and we are so proud to have them there – but to insinuate we were purchased by LVMH or that they will influence our editorial decisions is simply inaccurate. 

HODINKEE's goal has always been to make the watch world a bigger place, and a better one. With Toby joining the likes of Russell, Eneuri, and myself as the leaders of this company, and with help from absolutely the best team in watches and the community that supports it, that future is now more possible than ever.

And now, a word from our new CEO...

Hi all, 

Toby here. This is an exciting day for me, and I'll try not to be too gushy. But anyone who knows me knows I love watches – and that I'm a longtime fan of HODINKEE. So I seem to have landed squarely on my feet here, right? Right. While we have many exciting announcements on the horizon, and I can't wait to get to work, for now all I'll say is that I'm honored to be part of such a great brand and a great team, and I'm here to make your HODINKEE experience even better. Thank you for welcoming me into the community.

– Toby

We believe every vintage watch has a story to tell. That's what HODINKEE was founded on, and since 2016, we've used our knowledge to bring you a curated selection of vintage watches in the HODINKEE Shop that you won't find elsewhere, all delivered with an emphasis on education, transparency, and storytelling. And now, we're kicking things up a notch.  

You'll still find us here every Wednesday morning, and we'll still be highlighting what we love and what you should know about every vintage watch that appears in the HODINKEE Shop. You'll also see every angle, of every watch, because we shoot all the vintage watches listed in the HODINKEE Shop ourselves – and we always will.  

What's new, however, is the amount of watches you'll discover each week. We've grown our team of specialists, and we're now able to deliver a larger – and broader – selection of vintage watches than ever before. You'll also learn about the highlight pieces in each week's assortment in articles like the below, directly from the team members who are most excited about them. The comments section is also now open for discussion, because we want to hear from you – don't hesitate to let us know what you think and what you'd like to see from us going forward.  

This Week's Vintage Watches

This week, we couldn't be more excited to bring you 20 all-new vintage watches in the HODINKEE Shop. While we're pretty pumped to offer such a robust assortment, at HODINKEE, you know we're all about quality over quantity, and these watches won't disappoint. We have a beautiful Jumbo Royal Oak that may convert you to becoming a fan of two-tone, even if you've been a skeptic. If you're a history buff, we have a handsome example of the true "Watch of Presidents." And, if you were born in the year 1978, watch out – we have not one but two models that would make for perfect birth-year watches. Head over to the HODINKEE Shop now to explore these watches along with this week's full vintage selection, or read on to learn more about what makes these watches so special. 

A 1950s Universal Genève Tri-Compax Ref. 22279/1 And A 1970s Audemars Piguet Two-Tone "Jumbo" Royal Oak Ref. 5402SA

By Saori Omura

The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is a vintage piece that incorporates the triple calendar moon-phase very well. The Tri-Compax model was introduced in 1944 at Baselworld celebrating the company's 50th anniversary. The moon and stars on a beautiful blue background of the night sky at 12, alongside the bright red calendar hand, really brings focus to this watch. I love that the name of the company and the model are only subtly presented and more or less in the background, which is probably not what would happen if this piece was made today. The Tri-Compax models were offered in numerous dial configurations, and depending on the piece, they have the tendency to show a wide variety of patina. We find this one to have a perfect creamy honest patina and little imperfections. Altogether, it makes this example a compelling vintage piece to add to your collection, which you can do right here. 

It's surprising to think that the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was introduced almost 50 years ago, designed by the legendary watch designer, Mr. Gérald Genta. It still feels fresh and modern yet classic all at the same time. When I got to try on this Jumbo Royal Oak, it clicked with me right away. Two-tone watches can be a total hit or a total miss because the proportion of the two metals has to be just right. But when it works, it really works. It commands presence in the best possible way, striking the right balance between sporty and dressy. Ultimately, it leans a bit more sporty for its integrated case and bracelet design, so it makes it more wearable day to day.  

The vintage nature of the piece certainly softens the "goldness," if you will. It melds together with the rest of the piece quite nicely as opposed to standing out on its own, as gold parts tend to do. In addition, I have an affinity for grey dials, so I really appreciate this one with a nice Tapisserie finish. I highly recommend this watch for someone who's looking for a Jumbo Royal Oak and also considering getting a two-tone watch. It's surprisingly satisfying on your wrist, and you can make it yours now in the HODINKEE Shop.  

A 1978 Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 And A 1978 Rolex GMT-Master Mark 3 'Radial Dial' Ref. 1675

By Brandon Frazin

Rolex came out with the reference 1680 in the late 1960s, and it was the first Submariner of its kind to feature a date complication. This may not seem like a big deal, but it was. At the time, the Submariner was only available sans date, and the addition was a pretty significant step forward for the model. Today, the model is offered with and without the date, which all comes back to the reference 1680. Rolex initially designed the 1680 with the word "Submariner" in red text on the dial and eventually phased that out in the mid-1970s. Ever since, Rolex has made the Sub with all-white text, similar to the 1680 we have here today from 1978. 

This particular watch has aged beautifully, and the lume has turned to a gorgeous yellow custard color. This particular shade of yellow just pops against the black dial and bezel and gives the watch that awesome vintage look many are looking for. As most of you know by now, I am a big Sub guy, and when this watch came in, it was hard for me to put it down. I have seen many 1680s, but this one has to be one of the nicest "white" examples I have come across between the crisp case, great lume color, clean dial, and strong bezel color – it just ticks all the boxes. Be sure to check out the watch here.  

A stainless steel GMT 1675 is definitely on my "list" of watches to own one day. It's very similar to a Sub in size and general style, BUT it has such a distinct look with a "Pepsi" bezel and an extra GMT hand that give it an identity of its own. Rolex came out with the reference 1675 in 1959, and it was in production until 1980. Over this time period, Rolex would tweak the model, and collectors have discovered roughly nine different dial variations. The watch we have here today is a Mark 3 dial nicknamed a "Radial Dial." The "Radial Dial" has a very distinctive style that's different from other GMTs, adding to the character. When comparing the lume placement for the hour markers, Rolex made them a bit more central on the dial, therefore the watch has its own look. 

One of the reasons why I really dig this exact watch is due to the Mark 3 dial and the nice way it has aged over the years. These Mark 3 dials don't come up too often – I believe this is the first one we are offering in the HODINKEE Shop – and in all my years working with watches, I have only seen a few others. Due to the uniqueness of the Mark 3, many collectors covet this variation; this isn't surprising because, especially with vintage Rolex, the little details matter. In addition to the dial variation, the lume has aged to an attractive pale yellow color, the bezel has faded very slightly in the blue portion, and the red part has almost a raspberry color that really looks great. All in all, if you are looking for a special 1675 in great condition with a great look, this is a solid contender. To check out all the details, go here.   

As I sit here nearly drooling over these two watches, I can't help but think that if I was alive and in the market for a new watch in 1978, I would have been able to stroll into my local AD and pick up one of these watches or, heck, even both. I wonder if I would have noticed the distinct dial on the GMT, or if I'd have even thought about how the Submariner used to have red text on the dial. I was also thinking about how this is going to be a great test of self-control for someone out there looking for a birth-year watch from 1978.  

A 1950s Vulcain Cricket In 18k Gold And A 1950s Universal Genève Polerouter De Luxe Ref. 10357 1

By Cait Bazemore

This week, the two watches that immediately stood out to me from our compelling vintage lineup are steeped in horological heritage. The first is the President's watch, and I'm not referring to the Rolex – this is the watch I consider to be the true "Watch of Presidents." The second watch had me at Gérald Genta – I'm a sucker for Genta's designs, from the most well-known to the most obscure. Here, we have one of his early creations, in essence a precursor or sneak peek at the designs that would etch themselves in watchmaking history. Let's take a deeper look at the Vulcain Cricket and the Universal Genève Polerouter De Luxe we have in the HODINKEE Shop. 

The Vulcain Cricket first made its debut in style at an event at the famed Waldorf Astoria hotel in New York City in 1947. It soon went down in horological history as one of the first wristwatches to feature a mechanical alarm, and a decade later, it would solidify its place in our culture as the President's watch, beginning with President Harry S. Truman. Despite being an instant conversation piece, what makes this particular Vulcain Cricket special is the combination of its two-tone dial and 18k yellow-gold build. The former adds a subtle interest to the otherwise clean and simple dial, and the latter adds a nice, substantial heft on the wrist, which is one of my favorite traits of precious metal watches. Make it yours by heading over to the HODINKEE Shop.

Next, we have another 18k gold model, this time the Universal Genève Polerouter De Luxe. At a glance, the Polerouter appears to be a quintessential gold dress watch with a beautiful automatic movement, the microrotor cal. 215. However, upon closer inspection, you notice the subtle geometry that's distinctly Genta. The combination of the supple, perfectly round dial with the more angular Dauphine hands and uniquely textured and etched hour markers creates contrast and movement all on a simple, monochromatic dial. The result is just enough visual interest to make this more than your average gold dress watch. It's even complete with a Universal Genève black alligator strap with matching gold-plated Universal Genève buckle. See it for yourself in the HODINKEE Shop. 

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here. 

Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Click here. 

Welcome to another installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Giannos Santamouris, Lucy Kapetanovic, Hamad Alhijji, Robert Day, and Dre Bucci.

Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story.

Giannos Santamouris And His Omega Seamaster 30

Giannos is from Greece and is the proud owner of a vintage Omega Seamaster 30, which his grandfather purchased when Giannos' mother was born in 1964. Giannos says it hasn't been serviced in 55 years – and keeps better time than some of his modern pieces. He also says it's his most precious watch.

Lucy Kapetanovic And Her Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36

When Lucy, who hails from Lincolnshire, England, was given a choice of watches for an early 30th birthday gift, she opted for this blue-dial Oyster Perpetual 36. While she's typically a vintage enthusiast, she decided that getting a new watch meant she could be the one to age it, and then eventually pass it down as a vintage piece to her children.

Hamad Alhijji And His Omega Speedmaster

Hamad, who is from Qatar, appreciates many things about his Omega Speedmaster – its diameter, thickness, how it fits on his wrist, the Moonwatch connection – but he really appreciates its chronograph function. And he puts it to good use – timing the seasoning of his cigar humidor, for instance, as well timing the video you see here.

Robert Day And His Seiko SRP777

Salt Lake City-native Robert filmed this video on Father's Day, which also happens to be his son's birthday. Back in 2016, Robert was excited for the Seiko Turtle re-release and decided to get the SRP777 for his forthcoming child. Since then, he's worn it for all the major events in his son's life. The watch means a lot to Robert, and he hopes it will have the same meaning for his son someday.

@tinpusher

Dre Bucci And His Rolex GMT-Master II

Dre is a barber and hairstylist in Ontario, Canada. His interest in watches developed at a young age, via the watch ads he'd see while flipping through National Geographic. In 2019, he turned 30, got married, and got this Rolex GMT-Master II. He says it feels like a part of him now, and that it gives him a sense of happiness and hope when he looks down at it.

@Checkyourwrist

Ready To Submit Your Own Watch Story? Here's How It Works

1. Pick one watch that is very special to you, and get your camera phone ready.

2. Record a video telling us your most interesting or meaningful story about your watch. Let's say 2-3 minutes is the sweet spot – if you go longer, that's okay. (And please remember to introduce yourself: your name and where you are from.)

3. Get creative, keep it clean, and have fun! 

4. Take some photos on the wrist and a few shots of the watch so that we can proudly display them on our site. Horizontal, please.

5. To share your video and photos, you can either A) upload here; or B) upload to your preferred large file transfer service and send a link to mywatchstory@hodinkee.com.

Quick Take

While much of Ralph Lauren's recent watch news has had an undeniable ursine tone, those looking for something a bit more traditional need not bear it any longer. Announced today as an expansion of its automotive collection, this is the new Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph. Available in either bare stainless steel or with a black finish, this 42mm chronograph is powered by an automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre movement and continues the line's formation around the spirit and aesthetic of many of the designer's favorite cars. 

Initial Thoughts

I'm something of an automotive enthusiast myself (although in no way comparable to Ralph), and while the job of designing an automotive-themed watch has always seemed like a grizzly task to me, I have always rather liked the look of the Ralph Lauren Automotive Collection. Yes, they are expensive, and I've only ever seen one in the wild (at The Quail, naturally), but the design team deserves credit for making something that (1) doesn't look like everyone else's automotive-themed watches and (2) doesn't look like a Rolex Daytona. 

RL has trimmed the fat without sacrificing function. The new chronographs split the difference between the two existing sizes (45 and 39mm) while also offering a no-date chronograph with a twin-register layout, no running seconds, and a max 12-hour measure.

That functional layout is supported by an exclusive automatic chronograph movement supplied by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Dubbed the RL751A/1, it's a 4 Hz movement with a 65-hour power reserve. Based on JLC's caliber 751, this movement is commonly seen with a date and running seconds, neither of which would have added to this automotive-inspired design. 

Available in steel or with a black-tone finish, both versions of the Automotive Chronograph come with a quick-change-capable solid steel bracelet and a black leather strap. To my eyes, the high-contrast steel version with the lighter tone wood bezel is easily the more attractive of the two; it's interesting to see RL continue to use wood for the bezel design after several past models deployed wood on the dial. For those wondering, it's Amboyna burl, which is meant to invoke the look of a classic wood-rimmed steering wheel. 

The Basics

Brand: Ralph Lauren
Model: RL Automotive Chronograph 42mm
Reference Number: 468836813001 and 468836812001 

Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 12.9mm
Lug width: 20mm
Case Material: Steel
Dial Color: Black
Indexes: Arabic, painted
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Includes steel bracelet and a black leather strap

The Movement

Caliber: RL751A/1
Functions: Hours, minutes, 12-hour chronograph
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Additional Details: Manufactured by JLC exclusively for Ralph Lauren

Pricing & Availability

Price: $9,900
Availability: Via global Ralph Lauren retail locations

For more, click here.

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, SoundCloud, Google Play and Spotify). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us what topics you'd like us to chat about (or email thegreynato@gmail.com).

It's that time of year yet again, and with the gift-giving season less than a month away, the TGN boys are back with their annual holiday gift guide. Perfect for those who have someone for whom they aren't sure what to buy, this list mostly covers items under $100, but both Jason and James get one pick with which to break the bank – by spending more than $100.

From bags and wall clocks to underwear, hats, coasters, and even kerchiefs, there is something here for anyone on your list and maybe even a little something for yourself. So just press play! Thanks so much for listening, and let's not forget an extra thank you to Seiko for sponsoring yet another episode of the show.

Show notes...

5:29
Venture4WD
 

10:49
Ted Chiang "Exhalation"
 

15:20
anOrdain Model 1
 

17:40
DOXA Sub 300 50th Anniversary Searambler
 

20:21
Seiko SPB151 and PB153 "Captain Willard" Prospex Dive Watches
 

25:00
Haveston Service Dial Coasters
 

27:30
Pedro and Tailor Hat
 

28:11
Josh Perez on The Grey NATO
 

30:00
Black Diamond Apollo Lantern
 

32:50
A Substack Subscription
 

36:15
Mack Weldon Underwear
 

38:40
Kyle Snarr on TGN
 

38:50
Cantonment Kerchiefs
 

42:59
Industry Of All Nations Henley Shirt
 

45:00
Fujifilm Instax Mini Link Printer
 

53:29
Bremont Fawley Wall Clock
 

56:20
Observer Collection Tango Bag
 

1:04:05
Following Seas
 

1:07:50
Filson Profile "Going it Alone: The Story of Richard Proenneke"

With the phenomenal advances in technology that have transformed the wristwatch over the last few decades, it is easy to overlook the seminal contributions made 250 years ago by the pioneers of precision timekeeping. Chief among these was John Harrison, who, against all odds, made the first timekeeper that solved the problem of finding longitude at sea and thereby ushered in the age of high precision, portable timekeeping. At the December 2020 meeting of the Horological Society of New York, William Andrewes will discuss Harrison's history.

One hundred years ago this year, Rupert Gould saw for the first time John Harrison's marine timekeepers, H1, H2, H3, and H4, and, soon after, began the painstaking task of their restoration. H1, in particular, was in such deplorable condition that, had he not brought it back to life and described it so eloquently in print, it might not have survived. Yet, Gould did not fully recognize Harrison's influence on the development of precision timekeeping. Fifty years ago, Harrison's marine timekeepers were considered by some to be a glorious dead-end, and his claim of the accuracy of a second in 100 days for his precision regulators was regarded as a gross exaggeration.

Since the publication of Dava Sobel's best-selling book Longitude and the documentary and feature film that followed in its wake, John Harrison has become as well-known as Isaac Newton, Thomas Tompion, and George Graham and is now honored like them with a memorial in Westminster Abbey. Most recently, his timekeepers were featured in an international touring exhibition called "Ships, Clocks, and Stars" organized by the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. 

The story of the renaissance of mechanical timekeeping over the last 50 years forms a tapestry of time, woven with a common thread of interest by many remarkable and colorful characters – makers like George Daniels, collectors such as Seth Atwood, dealers, writers, artists, and others with whom William Andrewes has worked to give Harrison the recognition he was for so long denied.

About William J. H. Andrewes

William Andrewes was born and educated in England. He trained as a clockmaker, working under the guidance of George Daniels and Martin Burgess, and as a designer, graduating from Kingston College of Art in 1972.

Specializing in the field of time measurement for over four decades, he has worked at Eton College (1973-1977), the Old Royal Observatory, Greenwich (1974-1977), The Time Museum (1977-1987), and Harvard University, where he was the David P. Wheatland Curator of the Collection of Historical Scientific Instruments (1987-1999). He organized the Longitude Symposium (1993), edited The Quest for Longitude (1996), and was co-author with Dava Sobel of The Illustrated Longitude (1998). For his contributions to horology, the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers awarded him the Harrison Medal in 2007.

William Andrewes has been awarded three patents for his "Longitude Dial." Examples of his sundials may be found in the United States, England, France, Mexico, and Spain.

The event is on Monday, December 7, 2020, from 7:00-9:00 PM Eastern Time (U.S. and Canada) via Zoom Webinar.

HSNY lectures will be streamed live via Zoom for the foreseeable future, with no in-person gatherings. Webinar registration is required. All HSNY lectures are free and open to the public, and all are recorded. Recorded lectures are made available to HSNY members immediately, and the general public with a two-month delay.

HODINKEE is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.

Editor's note: This article features a watch currently available in the HODINKEE Shop.

A GMT watch is the horological equivalent of your favorite childhood stuffed animal. Wherever you go, a little piece of home goes with you. You'll often come across old Rolex GMT-Masters in the wild with faded bezels, banged-up cases, and bracelets dangling from their last limbs. Why? Because they're watches of function and purpose. Most of all, they were very much loved by those who wore them day in and day out. There is real nostalgia associated with a GMT watch. It's a watch that's seen some stuff.

Baltic – the fledgling France-based watch brand that began on Kickstarter in 2015 – lives in the universe of nostalgia. It has created multiple collections of timepieces drawing inspiration not from any one single vintage watch, but rather from the idea of good old things. The Baltic Aquascaphe GMT, the brand's newest watch, is a fitting addition into the stable. It's got the look of the nostalgia-inducing GMT watches of yore, but is a decidedly modern watch in every way that counts. 

The original Aquascaphe was Baltic's first dive watch, featuring a slim 39mm case. Where the original Aquascaphe capitalized on vintage look and feel – with textured matte dials and gilt accents – the Aquascaphe GMT pares down some of the more obvious vintage design cues.

The matte dial is now gloss, and the recessed markers are now uniformly raised. Where prior iterations of the Aquascaphe had design elements a bit more rugged in appearance, the GMT has a definite cosmopolitan vibe – but in a Magical Mystery Tour sort of way. 

The Aquascaphe GMT comes in three variants, each with a different rotating bi-color (and bi-directional) bezel. All three easy-to-use bezels share the same navy blue top half. Each variant has a different bottom half in three colors: sea green, burnt orange, and grey. Baltic has opted to fashion the bezel insert of this watch out of sapphire. The result is something reminiscent of vintage bakelite bezels (a plastic material notably used by Rolex on early vintage models). The sapphire insert has a distorting effect on the numerals, as if you were viewing them through Hunter S. Thompson's eyeglasses. 

This is the first Baltic watch to introduce a date complication, which might explain the decision to excise the recessed marker styling cue from prior models (as only recessing two markers might've looked a little odd). The date window is nestled right at six o'clock, with a black background that keeps it from breaking up the dial symmetry. 

The remaining  dial aspects are pretty much unchanged from prior Aquascaphe models. The Arabic 12 sits at (where else?) 12 o'clock, with the Baltic wordmark just below it. Further down, you see the word Aquascaphe in a color that corresponds with the GMT hand (orange, green, or blue). Where prior models would list the depth rating of the watch on the lower portion of the dial, this one has GMT printed in its stead. 

The Aquascaphe GMT uses a new typographic style for its bezel, with direct vintage styling cues. Unlike Aquascaphe dive watches, there is no "flat four," (a type-style in most vintage watches where the number four has a flat top). What we have in its place is the "open six," a style of type commonly seen in the date wheels of early 1970s Rolex watches.

Now, there is a certain notion that gets tossed around about whether or not a watch is a "true GMT." What many consider to be a "true GMT" is a watch that allows for independent movement of the hour hand, leaving the GMT hand to reflect one's home time. The Aquascaphe doesn't offer that functionality, but it'd be pedantic to give it a demerit because of that. 

What this watch does allow is independent operation of the GMT hand itself. Once it's set, you can view the time as you normally would, treating the GMT hand as a second hour hand – one that travels in 24-hour increments around the dial. 

For the Aquascaphe GMT, the brand has chosen the Soprod C125, a Swiss, self-winding (read: automatic) movement with a power reserve of 42 hours, a date complication, and a GMT function. The closed caseback is engraved in what can only be described as a world-time layout, with country names circumventing the outer part of the caseback and a map of the world situated in the center. 

True to vintage form, this watch features lug holes in the case, which allow for easy strap changes. What's more, the bracelet (one of two configurations for the watch) features an easy-release trigger system allowing you to remove the bracelet in mere seconds. The tropic strap, however, must be removed (and put on) the old fashioned way.

The case is basically all brushed. In profile, the construction of the case gives off a pseudo-sandwich effect, as both the crystal/bezel and the caseback protrude from either end. This is virtually imperceptible on the wrist as the watch is a slim 12mm. The crown is signed with the letter B and is finished with a nice sandblasted effect. This is the sort of micro-detail you don't often see in watches under $2,000. 

On your wrist, the sweet-spot 39mm Aquascaphe GMT wears comfortably on both a beads-of-rice bracelet and a breathable, tapered tropic-style strap.

This watch is equally legible in light and dark environs, with luminescent material applied to both the dial and bezel. The numerals on the bezel, the hands, and all the markers on the dial are treated with green Super-LumiNova. 

While it might seem strange to reach for a travel watch in a time when traveling feels like a distant memory, the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT brings a sorely needed warmth and nostalgia. That's the thing about a GMT – you look down not only to see the time, but also to keep the people and the places important to you close at hand. The Baltic Aquascaphe does that as well as most "true" GMTs. Maybe better. 

The Baltic Aquascaphe GMT. 316L stainless steel case with bi-color sapphire bezel. Water resistance to 100 meters. Soprod C125 movement with GMT function and 42 hours of power reserve. Domed sapphire crystal and engraved caseback. First batch is numbered set of 1,500 pieces. Stainless steel grains-of-rice bracelet with seven micro-adjust positions and an easy-release system. Price: $1,200 on bracelet and $1,105 on tropic style rubber strap. For more, visit Baltic.com

Photos: Kasia Milton

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