Mido has over a century of watchmaking know-how. In that time, it's built a reputation for creating high-quality watches that are accessibly priced. However, the brand has often flown under the radar through its history, quietly notching achievements with releases like the original Multifort Automatic in the 1930s, which was one of the first watches to combine water and shock resistance with anti-magnetic properties and a self-winding movement.  

Today, the Ocean Star is Mido's flagship line and has been a pillar of the brand since its inception in 1944. This collection comprises a diverse array of dive watches, equipped with a range of features to serve both amateur and professional divers as well as those who simply appreciate the dive watch aesthetic. The latest addition to the Ocean Star lineup includes an innovative GMT with a local jumping hour hand, all while effortlessly retaining the look and feel of a classic dive watch. After the resounding success of the Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition earlier this year, we're thrilled to welcome the expanded Mido Ocean Star collection to the HODINKEE Shop. 

A Little Backstory On Mido

Mido's roots trace back to 1918 and a watchmaker named Georges Schaeren. Once the Armistice officially brought World War I to a close on November 11, Schaeren decided it was time for a new beginning – that very same day, he founded the Mido brand. He closed down his modest finishing-shop, trademarked the name "MIDO," and forged a partnership with a businessman named Hugo Jubert. Alongside Schaeren and Juburt was Schaeren's younger brother, Henri. He was responsible for conceptualizing the Mido name from the Spanish phrase yo mido or "I measure" and would later join his brother as a partner after a five-year stint as the head of sales for OMEGA. For the next four decades, the company remained a family business. 

In that time, Mido notched a number of impressive achievements. By 1930, Mido had made an exciting development in the way of water resistance technology. It invented the "Aquadura," a unique crown-sealing system comprised of cork that prevented water and dust from reaching the movement through the crown. Soon after, the brand debuted the Multifort Automatic in 1935, after two years of research and development. This model was one of the first watches on the market to combine four key elements. It offered water resistance, magnetic resistance, shock resistance, and an automatic movement. Ultimately, these characteristics would become the guiding principles for the Mido brand and lead it to growth and success. From that moment forward, the mission was simple: create straightforward, practical watches with automatic movements that are highly resistant, even in the most extreme conditions. 

The next decade, Mido landed another first with the introduction of the Multicenterchrono in 1941. This model marked the first chronograph to display the measured time using an indicator in the center of the watch as opposed to sub-dials. The design offered optimal readability of the time measurement and was later used by a group of pilots that set a new record for an around-the-world flight. Eventually, in 1971, the Schaeren family would sell Mido to General Watch Co. Ltd (GWC), a holding company owned by ASUAG, which would later become the Swatch Group. 

Origins Of The Ocean Star Collection

At the southernmost point in Europe stands an important monument called the Europa Point Lighthouse. Since 1841, this structure has watched over the Gibraltar Strait, emitting a powerful beam of light that guides sailors through the rough waters between the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Mido draws inspiration from this 179-year lineage for its signature Ocean Star collection. Its roots trace back to 1942 when the brand trademarked its famous starfish on a crest as an emblem of its advancements in water resistance technology. Two years later, it registered yet another trademark, the name "OCEANSTAR," and thus officially began the foundation of one of Mido's most iconic collections. The Ocean Star line is notable for its reliability, just like the Europa Point Lighthouse. 

The Ocean Star name has always represented a robust line of watches. However, it would be a couple of decades before it would evolve into the diver's tools we associate with the collection today. This evolution is marked by the release of the brand's first decompression timer in 1961: the Powerwind 1000 ref. 5907. This model introduced a stronger range of technical features, specifically for diving, including water resistance up to 1,000 feet and the combination of a rotating bezel and multicolored dial indicating decompression stops. If this is sounding at all familiar, it's because this model served as the base of a new 'Rainbow Diver,' launched this summer in the HODINKEE Shop. Yet, it's crucial to note this model's importance in the context of Mido's history and the Ocean Star line to understand Mido's conscious efforts to represent its past in its modern watches.  

The Mido Ocean Star GMT

In the 76 years since the launch of the Ocean Star, Mido has continued to develop a reputation for creating quality watches at an attainable price point. For collectors who've been waiting for an affordable "true" GMT watch for years, the search is over. Just this year, Mido added a variation that's become a focal point of the collection: the Ocean Star GMT. In the HODINKEE Shop today, we have two iterations in stainless steel. One features a two-tone, black and blue ceramic bezel on a blue textile strap, and the other features a solid black ceramic bezel on a stainless steel bracelet. For the blue-accented version, the 24-hour track is printed on the periphery of the dial in white whereas the black version features a sportier orange 24-hour track. In both instances, the model retains the 60-minute dive bezel while seamlessly incorporating the ability to track a second time-zone. Altogether, the design showcases the brand's ability to maintain the dive watch DNA of the Ocean Star line while creating a "true" GMT.  

Inside the Ocean Star GMT, you'll find the flagship Mido caliber 80 that's been upgraded with GMT functionality. Here, you have all the benefits of the caliber 80, including the impressive 80-hour power reserve, with the added bonus of the 24-hour GMT hand. Built for Mido by ETA (off the base C07.661 movement), a second time-zone module has been expertly integrated into the movement construction, while fully maintaining the efficiency and running autonomy of the original movement and the integrity of the Ocean Star design. There's only a slight increase of 0.64mm to the original caliber 80's thickness. With the Ocean Star GMT, Mido has set a new entry point for those who appreciate a watch with "true" GMT capability. 

The Mido Ocean Star Diver 600

Mido's philosophy of offering quality and value is further epitomized in the Ocean Star Diver 600. With modern design elements, like a black DLC-coated steel case and top-grade functionality, the Ocean Star Diver 600 incorporates all the components that make Mido watches such a great value. This model marks the brand's first dive watch with water resistance up to 600 meters. Here, Mido incorporates a helium escape valve (HEV) with a small incision on the side of the case at nine o'clock to allow excess water to drain and prevent corrosion of the rotating, push-down bezel mechanism. 

At the heart of the Ocean Star Diver 600 is another all-new advancement for the brand. The flagship caliber 80 movement has once again been updated, this time in the form of a silicon balance spring. The result is increased shock resistance and magnetic resistance, offering greater long-term accuracy. This, in combination with COSC chronometer certification, a reinforced mainspring, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve, truly elevates this premium diver beyond Mido's standard offerings.  

The Mido Ocean Star Chronograph

Similar to the Diver 600, the Ocean Star Chronograph receives a hefty, modern build that incorporates all the foundational elements of the Ocean Star line with the utility of a chronograph complication. Here, Mido has opted for a horizontal, two-register layout with the 30-minute chronograph counter at three o'clock and the small seconds counter at nine o'clock. Then, you'll find a date window tucked in at six o'clock. In addition, the Ocean Star Chronograph features a traditional two-pusher design.  

The complication is a welcome addition to the brand's signature dive watch, allowing the wearer to calculate speed on the high seas with ease thanks to the nautical miles tachymeter scale, located on the dial's chapter ring. We offer the Ocean Star Chronograph in two variations. The first features a more classic aesthetic with a blue dial and bezel and the use of a titanium build as opposed to stainless steel. The second variant showcases a more modern design in stainless steel with a black DLC coating. 

The Mido Ocean Star Tribute

Last, but certainly not least, we have the Ocean Star Tribute. Last year marked the 75th anniversary of Mido's celebrated Ocean Star line, and with it came the introduction of the Mido Ocean Star Tribute. Instead of the original 1944 model, the brand drew inspiration from the Ocean Star divers of the 1960s for the tribute piece. Along with these retro elements, the Ocean Star Tribute features a modern build and the standard execution of Mido's caliber 80, based on the ETA C07.621. 

The Ocean Star Tribute ticks all the boxes in terms of legibility and functionality. In terms of styling, Mido pulls classic dive watch design cues from the golden age of the sport and seamlessly integrates them with modern touches. The cream paddle hands and hour markers give the patinated look of a vintage diver. In addition, the seconds hand is a bold, orange hue with lollipop styling. This provides a nice complementary pop of color against the Mediterranean Blue dial as well as a nice retro accent. In contrast, the polished, high-grade 316L stainless steel case is a more modern 40.5mm, and the crystal is a boxed sapphire. The combination gives the watch a height of 13.43mm, making the Ocean Star Tribute a strong presence on the wrist.  

Discover The Mido Ocean Star Collection in the HODINKEE Shop

While Mido may be underrated today, it undoubtedly has a rich history in the field of dive watches. The Ocean Star collection showcases the brand's time-tested approach to watchmaking with an array of models, each of which offers a little something for any type of diver – professional, casual, or simply those who appreciate the aesthetic and history of the sport. 

Each of the Ocean Star models represented here – the GMT, Diver 600, Chronograph, and Tribute – are priced under $2,500. To learn more about the individual watches in detail and explore the full selection of complications and colorways, check out the HODINKEE Shop.  

In the inaugural installment of The Video Vault, we looked back at three of the most revered independents in the world of watchmaking. Today, we shift our focus to some of the most interesting vintage timepieces we've had the honor of spending time with and filming. Below, I've curated three videos that I think capture the ethos and beauty of vintage watches. They include Rolex, Tudor, AP, and Patek Philippe – generally special or unique references that in many ways represent the veneration of vintage that informs much of the contemporary conversation about watches both old and new.

If you're new to HODINKEE, you probably haven't seen these; if you have seen them, it's probably been a while. So let's go back to a New York City menswear boutique in 2013, the Audemars Piguet headquarters in Le Brassus in 2014, and a private home in Arizona in 2015. Please enjoy our visits with Grahame Fowler, Sebastian Vivas and Michael Friedman of Audemars Piguet, and Jason Singer.

The Thirteen MilSubs Of Grahame Fowler (2013)

Grahame Fowler's shop in the West Village was not far from the original HODINKEE offices back in 2013, and inside was a tightly packed and colorful array of clothes, accessories, and British paraphernalia – basically an ideal backdrop for filming. And, of course, there were the watches that Ben, Stephen, and I had come to see: the purpose-built military Submariners that have captured Fowler's imagination  – including a 5513 that had lived in the sand for decades. This was one of my early, in-person introductions to the military-themed watch collecting space – a space that has only grown in the years since.

See the full original article here.

Inside The Archives Of Audemars Piguet (2014)

When you show up for a shoot, you generally kind of know what you're going to see – kind of. Ben had told me in advance that the vintage AP stuff was really special, but I was still not prepared for just how special. Forgetting for a second that these are functioning timekeepers – these are beautiful objects, plain and simple. The triple-calendar chronographs and perpetual calendars of the 1940s and '50s are particularly stunning in their detail, symmetry, and proportion. This was a rare treat, expertly presented by AP aficionados Sebastian Vivas and Michael Friedman.

See the full original article here.

Talking Watches With Jason Singer (2015)

Sometimes you show up for a shoot with fair warning ("this guy has a lot of watches"), and still start doubting your SD card stash when the collector starts bringing out the goods. I think of two Talking Watches shoots in particular: Jeff Stein, and the gentleman you see here – super-collector Jason Singer. Rolex Bubblebacks for days. Rare Patek Philippes. Rarer Patek Philippes. A dining table that might not be able to contain them. And this was just a sampling of Singer's collection – a collection defined by the pursuit of the highest quality examples that can be found.

See the full original article here.

Each week, our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.

Brain Scientists Explore The How Of When – The New York Times

One of the more mysterious aspects of the human brain is how it represents time – or more specifically, what the neural substrate of the representation of time might be. This story from The New York Times looks at a fascinating piece of research by a group of scientists in Dallas, who conducted an experiment in which subjects were asked to memorize lists of words and then attempt to recall them. They found a group of neurons in the brain, active during the recall period, whose firing depended only on the duration of the exercise, not on the kinds of words they were asked to recall – a way of putting, as the article puts it, a "time stamp" on the memories. While they're not internal clock cells per se, I can't help wondering to what extent our own internal representation of time might be tied to our fascination with telling the time. Is a watch interesting partly because it mirrors, to some degree, an internal process?

– Jack Forster, Editor-in-Chief

John Lennon's Most Revealing Album Was His Last – The Washington Post

I used to have an aversion to music production from the early 1980s – specifically on albums from artists whose early work I loved. I am talking about Bob Dylan, Brian Wilson, and of course John Lennon. There was something about the sound and over-reliance on electronic instruments that felt sterile to me. This week, The Washington Post published a longform piece on John Lennon's final album, Double Fantasy, an album that took me years to warm up to. It wasn't until I heard Lennon's acoustic rendition of "Watching the Wheels" that something clicked. After hearing that song in its rawest form, I returned to the album with renewed appreciation. I could hear past the electronic instruments, the sparse production style, and really feel the music. That album was released 40 years ago, and it was the final expression of one of the great musical artists of our time. The Post article tells the fascinating story behind its creation (recording the album was basically a top-secret operation), with some really amazing in-studio photos to boot. 

– Danny Milton, Editor

Dave Grohl, 10-Year-Old Nandi Bushell And One Very Epic Drum Battle – The New York Times

This is the internet at its best. A 10-year-old drum prodigy in the U.K. connects with legendary rockstar Dave Grohl for an international celebration of rock n' roll, and endless smiles ensue. If you weren't following the story of Nandi Bushell and her sick percussion skills, this is a great primer, and it will also send you down a YouTube rabbit hole that won't result in an ounce of political anxiety (isn't that nice for a change?). I truly can't recommend this enough, and, having watched all of these videos again before writing this, I can honestly say I'm still grinning ear to ear.

– Stephen Pulvirent, Manager of Editorial Products

Ode To Desolation By Lindsey Hagen – Vimeo

This short video profile of Jim Henterly delves into "the wilderness experience" in such a beautiful way. It uses the dwindling number of manned fire lookout stations as a lens for the way AI and technology are replacing humans' role in the stewardship of nature. As Jim points out, for most of humankind's existence we've lived in the wilderness; it's laid the foundation of what our idea of beauty is. But how badly have we lost touch with it? Spend a few minutes on this video and see if it doesn't add some depth as you hike your local peak while the leaves are still falling, before the bitter cold sets in.

– Cole Pennington, Editor

An Oral History Of 'Marge Vs The Monorail', The Episode That Changed 'The Simpsons' – Vice

Years before he became famous for The String Dance, the Walker Texas Ranger Lever, and a wildly-public separation from NBC, Conan O'Brien wrote what just might be the best episode of one of the best comedy shows in television history. Sure, The Simpsons is an institution now, but in 1993, it was still finding its footing for the long haul, and one missing piece was spectacle. O'Brien's masterpiece, "Marge vs. The Monorail," delivered on that front, featuring a full song-and-dance number, endless sight gags and one-liners, and an action-packed third act topped off by one of Leonard Nimoy's greatest ever line readings. Vice recently took a look back at this 22-minute tour-de-force, and it's fascinating to read about its production and legacy through the eyes of those who created it. "Donuts, is there anything they can't do?"

– Dakota Gardner, Web Editor

Lead image by Jamie Pilgrim

With the recent launch of Patek Philippe's first-ever grande et petite sonnerie, the ref 6301P, we thought it might be fun to take a look (and listen) back to a day when we got to hear every current minute repeater made by the brand.  

Originally posted back in 2013, this charming story features a video in which you can hear all of the Patek Philippe minute repeaters available at the time. While perhaps the most public of all complications, actually getting to hear a minute repeater is a rare treat for anyone who doesn't have one (or all of them) at their disposal.  Grab your headphones and give it a listen. 

Click here to read: "In-Depth: The Entire Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Collection, Chiming For Your Enjoyment (VIDEO)". 

There are few things we do here at HODINKEE that require more people, that involve more logistics, and that draw on as many creative perspectives as the HODINKEE Magazine. When I say that every person at HODINKEE, from our editors and photographers to our accountants and operations specialists, is crucial to making this book, I mean it. It's a heavy lift under the best circumstances, but 2020 challenged us to try new things, develop new ways of working, and push ourselves to find the most inspirational stories we possibly could. I'm happy to report that I think we've succeeded, and I couldn't be prouder of HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 7.

With travel restrictions, we found new collaborators across the globe, from Hong Kong to Houston, bringing new visions and ideas to the magazine. Many of the subjects in Volume 7 worked extremely hard to find ways to coordinate safe photo shoots and to conduct remote in-depth interviews with our editors. That they were willing to go out on their respective limbs to share their stories with us is a true honor. Personally, I found working on these stories to be my own alternative to globetrotting during these trying times, offering glimpses into life outside my little bubble and reminding me why the global watch community is so damn wonderful. I sincerely hope that it can provide you all with the same escape.

One of the highlights of Volume 7 is how many different collectors' voices we were able to get into it. These include the usual trio of "Why I Collect" stories (which include HODINKEE Radio alum Miles Fisher) and an absolutely killer "One Man, One Watch" featuring a badass chef and his trusty Tudor, not to mention a special "The Collectors" highlighting someone who is sharing a multi-generational family passion through his own collection.

We also have five experts sharing the vintage (and almost-vintage) watches they think you should be investing in right now; a detailed look at the often-misunderstood Tornek-Rayville military watches; an ode to truly handmade watches from our founder, Ben Clymer; a definitive guide to the Cartier Tank; and a beautiful profile of Seiko CEO & President Shinji Hattori, one of the most compelling executives in all of watches. Finishing off the issue is a personal essay from actor and horologist Aldis Hodge about why he finds meaning in watchmaking and how he's building a horological legacy of his own. And, if it's stories about things other than watches you're looking for, don't fret. From the recently renovated Rothko Chapel to a stunning Italian sports car from the golden age of racing, we've got you covered. 

How To Get It

Volume 7 of the HODINKEE Magazine is available from today in the HODINKEE Shop for $38 per copy, including worldwide shipping. We've also partnered with some of our favorite retail shops around the world, and you can click here to find a store near you. While travel is obviously limited right now, you can also find the HODINKEE Magazine in select private jet terminals across the United States, and it will be returning to a number of top hotels, airport lounges, and more as things begin to open up again.

If you want to be among the first people to receive future copies of the HODINKEE Magazine, we highly recommend subscribing, which you can do right here. Volume 8 will come out around May 2021, and subscribers get early access to the HODINKEE Magazine at a discounted rate of $32 (including shipping), so you get the best bang for your buck, too.

Want More Magazine?

While the HODINKEE Magazine is a bi-annual publication that focuses on longform storytelling, we want to keep bringing you insights into these stories year-round. Follow @hodinkeemag on Instagram for more stunning photographs, many of which we couldn't fit into the print volumes themselves. There are also plenty of behind-the-scenes pictures and the occasional early preview of things coming in future volumes. Likewise, be sure to check out all of the digital features that we've produced from past volumes – from Ben's incredible interview with Apple's Jony Ive to an inside look at our SoHo fashion shoot to a profile of KITH founder Ronnie Fieg, you won't want to miss a single story.

We also want to see your copies of the HODINKEE Magazine in the wild. Tag us @hodinkee and @hodinkeemag and use #hodinkeemag to show us how you enjoy your HODINKEE Magazine. We'll feature selected shots on our Instagram Stories over the coming days and weeks. Thank you, and enjoy!

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review, and tell us which guests we should have on!

Every time we launch a new volume of the HODINKEE Magazine, it feels like a day for celebration. Each volume takes us over half a year to produce, with some stories in the works for over a year before they finally make it onto the printed page, and countless HODINKEE staffers and collaborators work tirelessly to get these magazines together and into your hands. But the release of Volume 7 feels even more monumental than usual. We produced the entire magazine, from start to finish, remotely during the COVID-19 pandemic, recruiting incredible writers, producers, photographers, and more from around the world to make it a reality. I couldn't be happier to have it available for you all to see.

As we got ready to put this issue out into the world, I knew that I wanted to share a little more about some of the incredible stories we've got for you this time around. So, I got Danny, Jack, and Joe on-mic to offer a peek behind the curtain, giving their first-person accounts of how their stories went from vague ideas in meetings to full-blown assignments to the thoughtful, beautiful stories you'll find inside Volume 7. Danny speaks to his interviews with passionate collectors of watches, guitars, streetwear, and more, really thinking about what it means to be passionate about something and to invest yourself in it; Jack goes deep on the Cartier Tank, one of the most iconic and influential watches of all time; and Joe shares stories of his trips to Japan, his evolving relationship with Seiko and Grand Seiko, and why Seiko CEO and President Shinji Hattori is one of the most interesting executives in watchmaking. I was involved in all of their stories from the beginning, and I still learned a ton talking to them. I know you will too.

Obviously, when you're done listening, go grab a copy of Volume 7 of the HODINKEE Magazine, if you haven't already. Despite the crazy production circumstances, it just might be our best volume yet, and you definitely don't want to miss it.

We hope you enjoy Episode 112 of HODINKEE Radio. Check out the show notes below, and let us know what you think in the comments.

Show Notes

(2:45) Introducing: The HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 7

(17:45) Introducing: The Cartier Privé Collection Tank 'Asymétrique'

(33:30) Watch Spotting: Chef Kevin Gillespie Wearing A Tudor Pelagos On Bravo's 'Top Chef'

(46:30) A Tale Of Two-Tone Rolex Datejusts

(1:11:30) HODINKEE Radio: Episode 39: Joe Thompson

(1:13:15) Four Revolutions: Part 1: A Concise History Of The Quartz Revolution

There is a special space reserved for watches – and clocks – which have proven to be timeless. There is no such space currently reserved for the Patek Philippe Naviquartz. It is very much a product of the time it was made, so much so that you may never have even heard of it. The Naviquartz is a nautically themed, quartz-powered clock released by Patek in the 1970s. It was originally designed as a back-up navigational system for ships, but later relegated to dryer environs. As watches became collectible, this clock  fell out of favor. At one point, the Naviquartz was a status symbol. It is symbolic now only of a time gone by. But just because we don't talk about it, doesn't mean we shouldn't. 

I have very distinct memories of the Naviquartz. We had one in my childhood home growing up. It sat on a coffee table in my father's home office, just ticking – and ticking – away. Earlier this year, when we all began working from home, my wife and I spent some time at my parents' house. I took every HODINKEE meeting in my dad's office. My colleagues couldn't see it, but just off-camera, beside my computer, was that loud ticking clock. The sound alone brought a flurry of those childhood memories back. In fact, one of the most sense-triggering aspects of this clock is the sheer volume and forcefulness of its ticking. Some of that sound is muffled by the wooden case in which it sits, but nothing can dampen the sound of the Naviquartz.

My dad was (and still is) proud of his clock. "It's a Patek Philippe," he always says – that mere statement, a point of pride. But I get it. The brand itself is one of the true status symbols that we have. My father purchased his Naviquartz sometime in the 1970s for – as he recalls – $1,700 (which was no small sum). But why did he buy it? In many ways, I think his story is the story of many Naviquartz owners. This clock, in its day, was a real showpiece. But labeling it as such actually undercuts the technological aspects of its construction, as well as the purpose for which it was originally built.

This is no dainty library relic, but rather a real chronometer. The Naviquartz is a true nautical clock, an almost miniaturized version of the sophisticated electronic clockmaking efforts spearheaded by Patek Philippe in the middle part of the 20th century.  

It would be an understatement to call the Naviquartz undervalued. Its worth today is pretty much in line with inflation, so there is a fair amount of stasis in terms of any increase in price. There are three variations of the Naviquartz – aptly named I, II, and III. In this article, I will focus almost entirely on the Naviquartz E 1200 model, which had a production run from the early 1970s to the mid-1980s.

The origin story of this clock is a matter of some debate. The first Naviquartz was announced at the Basel Fair in 1970. The debate centers around the fact that some models have appeared, in the wild, which date back to 1969. According to John Reardon, noted Patek expert and founder of Collectability, some Naviquartz clocks have been sold at auction which date back to as early as 1968. But for all intents and purposes, we can date the clock to roughly 1970, which was when Patek actually began marketing it in earnest. 

Though the Naviquartz was released in 1970, it did not spring up out of nowhere. In 1964, at the World's Fair in Queens, New York, Patek had a large booth completely dedicated to showing off electronic timekeeping. This was the apex of horological technology at the time, and a lot of that technology later manifested inside of the Naviquartz. 

Upon its release, and for much of the 1970s, Patek pushed the clock's nautical slant. The Naviquartz was made to be put on boats – at least that was the original conceit. By the 1980s, the marketing changed course. At that point, Patek began marketing it as a feature for the desktop – which is a polite way of calling it a desk ornament. Now, you might think it a bit strange for a brand such as Patek to have ever produced a large, clunky, nautical-themed clock, with a quartz movement, but looking at the individuals behind the brand – the Stern family, which purchased Patek Philippe in 1932 – it begins to make sense.

Former brand presidents Henri Stern and his son Philippe (who is now Honorary Chairman) were very much into nautical sports, and specifically sailing. Henri Stern had a fervent passion for the nautical angle of the Naviquartz. In fact, he had his very own Naviquartz – a Naviquartz III –  presented to him on May 1, 1974, which the brand featured in an advertisement in the 1970s. That very clock is said to still be within the family today (Patek Philippe is currently run by Philippe's son, Thierry). 

In 2017, Christie's auctioned off a Tiffany-stamped Naviquartz E 1200 which was a gift from Elton John (it is not known if John owned it himself), but that only fetched $13,750. It even came with a gold record. HODINKEE Vintage Manager Brandon Frazin worked at Christie's at the time. "Ultimately, I wasn't that surprised at the price. I was just happy that it sold," he says. Now, who knows what the Stern family's own Naviquartz might do for the market if it ever crosses the block, but it is clear that interest in the clock is not particularly high. 

There is a nautical function to the Naviquartz as well. In the 1960s, it was common for large barges to have Patek Philippe timing systems. These were used for navigation and were redundancy systems that kept time throughout the ship. To own a Naviquartz clock was akin to owning a miniaturized version of that technology. The Naviquartz was the culmination of Patek's quartz clockmaking effort, especially in light of the quartz revolution. It was developed at the same time as the Beta 21 movement, which was the first movement produced by Switzerland's Centre Electronique Horloger (C.E.H.), a consortium of 20 Swiss watch brands, including Patek Philippe. The Naviquartz was therefore regarded as the bellwether of cutting-edge electronic timekeeping technology upon its release.

This is interesting for a number of reasons. We often read, or hear stories, about the quartz crisis and how it almost destroyed the Swiss mechanical watch industry. In fact, as Reardon notes, Patek was a pioneer in developing quartz technology, pushing the envelope for accuracy. More than that, Patek had a serious business operation with its implementation of quartz clocks (or subsidiary clock systems) on ships and barges.

In its time, the Naviquartz was certainly a desirable thing, but not necessarily an item the brand was selling in volumes. In Reardon's view, the clock was more a vessel for Patek to place all of its resources – and technology – into the retail market, so that buyers could have a status symbol on their ship or their desk. Despite the name, this never really became a navigation device, but instead a really nice novelty. You get that sense when you look at it – with the ornate wooden box, the gold accents, and the key.

The very first movement utilized in the Naviquartz was the caliber RH29. In 1974, the caliber 33QZ was released, which is the caliber most often seen in the line. This is an in-house movement made of a solid circuit construction. The clock itself was noted by Patek –  in its catalog – as an "electronic marine chronometer with quartz time base" featuring a "jumping seconds-hand." While there is no decoration to speak of on the movement, it is signed Patek Philippe. The clock requires batteries to power the movement; however, the method for putting the batteries into the clock is quite different than most quartz timepieces. 

The Naviquartz takes standard D batteries, which fit into a tube, and that tube is screwed into the case of the clock. The tube must then be locked into place. As a result, it functions very much like a screw-down crown. According to Reardon, this clock is capable of being submerged in water. Reardon also notes that while Patek's marketing never went so far as to specifically state any specific water resistance or depth rating, that is the understood purpose of the screw-in battery chamber. The catalog description for the Naviquartz does, however, list the clock as being "Humidity-Protected."

While both of the clocks photographed in this article are of the same E 1200 series, circa the 1970s, they could not be more different in terms of aesthetics. On the one hand, you have the more classical looking, Roman numeral dial variant, with ornate script Naviquartz written on the case (sans Patek logo). On the other, you have a more sporty, almost tool-like, black dial with Arabic numerals for both minutes and hours. The typeface is actually reminiscent of some of Patek's aviation-centric pieces. The typeface on the aluminum exterior is printed, and includes the Patek logo.

The E 1200 series measures in at 169mm wide, 229mm long, 80mm tall, and with a weight of 2.9kg (approximately 6.4 lbs). Like all Naviquartz clocks, it comes inside of a wooden box with a soft red lining. The box can be locked by a small key. When closed, the audible ticking, noted earlier, becomes softer beneath the exhibition glass viewing window. When you remove the clock from its case, there is a kickstand on the underside. This allows you to prop up the clock both outside of the box and within.

When Patek augmented its marketing pitch for the Naviquartz from a navigation device to an office piece, the tagline became, "From Boat, to Office." I have only ever seen the clock in an office environment, and I think that atmosphere adds to its status symbol effect. In its day, the Naviquartz was a killer addition to any office – its ticking, a simultaneously comforting and foreboding sound, depending on the occasion.

So, why hasn't the Naviquartz risen in value – apart from the normal accounting for inflation? That I do not know. From my research, and talking with people in the industry, it has little to do with the fact that it boasts a quartz movement. Quartz, alone, doesn't carry the same negative connotation that it used to. It could be the fact that it is a clock, and that there is not as robust a market for clocks as there is for watches. As Reardon put it, "It is not that it will never happen for the Naviquartz, it is just that it hasn't happened to it yet."

Sometimes, it is OK to appreciate a thing for what it is, to have an intellectual interest in something, independent of its monetary value. The Naviquartz is partly a relic and partly the culmination of one of the most technologically exciting times in horological history – and that is definitely something I can get behind. I will always have fond memories of the sound of this clock, and with that I say, tick away Naviquartz. 

A special thanks to both Jon Reardon of Collectability and HODINKEE Vintage Manager Brandon Frazin for their contributions, expertise, and assistance on this story. 

Photos: Kasia Milton

Nothing is ever scandal-free when it comes to the British royal family. You don't need to be a dedicated royal-watcher or even a big fan of Netflix's The Crown (which came back over the weekend with its fourth season) to know that, either. But a recent Vanity Fair headline caught my attention especially quickly, answering the burning question I didn't know I needed to be asking: How did Meghan Markle wind up with Princess Diana's favorite watch, a gold Cartier Tank Française?

I won't totally spoil the tale for you here (you'll have to click through and read the VF piece for that), but it's way more complicated than you might expect. Princess Diana owned quite a few watches, including multiple Cartier Tank watches and an engraved Patek Philippe given to her by her then-husband, Prince Charles, just after the birth of their first son, Prince William. Since Princess Diana was photographed basically non-stop, there is a pretty robust visual record of these watches. Just do a quick Google search, and you'll see what I'm talking about.

When it comes to the Tank Française in question (a solid-gold model on a matching gold bracelet), it's not exactly clear who gave the watch to Diana, how it ended up with Prince Harry, and if it's actually the exact same watch Markle has been seen wearing recently. The watch has been the subject of speculation for some time, with various news outlets reporting on it over the last 25 years or so, but this latest development is the first time this watch has popped up in quite a while.

Now, does the Tank Française make an on-screen appearance in the latest season of The Crown? Honestly, I have no idea. It was a busy weekend, so as of writing this, I'm only one episode in. If you've got a better answer than that, let us know down in the comments below!

Check out the full story from Vanity Fair right here.

It was late on a Monday afternoon in NYC when I received something I never, ever expected to see come in via WhatsApp. In fact, it's something I've never seen in my 12 plus years of involvement in watches – an official statement from one Philippe Dufour. Actually, it might even resemble a press release.

As of today, November 16, 2020, Mr. Claude Sfeir, legendary collector and jeweler, will handle all commercial responsibilities for future creations from Philippe Dufour, beginning with the 20th anniversary of Simplicity 20-piece collection. Mr. Dufour's wife, Elizabeth, ever by her husband's side, will continue to handle any and all matters related to communication.

Mr. Dufour's legacy in watchmaking stems from not only his work for the likes of Audemars Piguet, but also for his innovative Sonnerie wristwatches, and more well-known Duality and Simplicity timepieces, all darlings of the high-end independent collector set. Appreciation for his work has only been compounded over the last 20 years or so by his, well, relatively low interest in catering to the whims of even the wealthiest collectors. For years, he has turned down untold amounts of money from some of the wealthiest collectors in the world to create unique timepieces for them, instead choosing to make the odd watch for those he holds dearest to him. One such example was a stainless steel Simplicity made for his new partner's son's wedding, that we covered here. Another was made for a long time friend and Japanese retailer – seen here.

More to the point, Dufour's commercial activity since the completion of his original run of 200 Simplicity watches has been something of a mystery. Thousands have emailed him to inquire about a Simplicity, hoping for the slightest response. Most likely never heard a word. That is not to say Dufour is a recluse – quite the opposite at times – he was kind enough to join us at the 2015 HODINKEE Summit in NYC, and joined us for an episode of HODINKEE Radio, in addition to appearing in what remains a favorite video of mine back from 2013. He even pops up every now and then wearing a rather unexpected watch (that yes, he had to put his name on the waiting list for). 

As for his new partner? Claude Sfeir is a multi-year member of the GPHG Jury, one of independent watchmaking's biggest supporters, the owner of several of the most important F.P. Journe, Gruebel Forsey, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor, and other watches in the world, and quite famously, was the underbidder for the Henry Graves Supercomplication. Beyond that, he is extremely highly regarded by all within the watch industry from each side as a collector and connoisseur first – a must for anyone who is now responsible for ensuring the legacy of one of the greatest watchmakers of all time.

Details Of The Philippe Dufour 20th Anniversary Simplicity Collection

Along with the news of Mr. Sfeir's appointment comes details of what the 20-watch limited edition will actually be. We've seen the prototype number 00 sell at auction for north of one million dollars, and now we know how the remaining watches will be created. All pieces will be 37mm, with Breguet hands. The "PD" at 12 seen on the prototype will be replaced by an Arabic "12." The remaining specs are as follows:

Seven pieces in polished rose gold with a brown dial and pink-gold graphics, polished indices – roughly the same as seen in the Phillips sale.

Seven pieces in polished white gold with a grey dial and matte indexes. The printing on the dial will be black.

Seven pieces in brushed, matte platinum with a light blue dial and polished indexes. The printing on the dial will be dark blue.

You, no doubt, have noticed that the math here adds up to 21, not 20. Quite simply and transparently, Mr. Dufour himself will be keeping one watch for the house. Which means, including number 00, there will be 22 in the world. Fair enough.

How To Register Interest In A Simplicity 20th Anniversary Watch

And what you've all been waiting for. Yes, with Mr. Sfeir's new involvement, you can actually register interest in this watch. It should be noted that the prices have yet to be determined, and Mr. Dufour and Mr. Sfeir have decided to sell only one watch to each country – meaning that for even the largest pools of collectors around the world, each person will vie for their home country's solitary spot. This thinking is to counteract how watches have been sold previously where groups of friends and similar collectors received the majority of allocations.

I am told all 20 pieces will be completed and delivered within 24 months from right now, which speaks to Dufour's almost legendary "ten watches per year" thinking. To register interest in one such watch, you may email Claude Sfeir directly at cldsfr12@gmail.com.

Quick Take

Just a couple of days into the virtual running of the 2020 Windup Watch Fair, the excellent folks at Worn & Wound have announced a brand new limited-edition collaboration with the British watch brand Christopher Ward. The resulting watch is called the C65 Sandstorm, and it is available in two distinct versions – the Sandstorm and Sandstorm Blackout (the latter sporting a black DLC case). Both are based upon the same 38mm case and offer a lovely take on a sector dial design along with a handsome and effective date display that encircles the mid dial. The team at Worn & Wound are qualified fans of (and crucial voices for) the proliferation of accessible and capable sports watches. This latest LE is a stylish steel chronometer that they are making in very short supply. 

Initial Thoughts

While I haven't had a lot of hands-on experience with watches from Christopher Ward, they have a ton of enthusiast credibility, and I think it's pretty hard to argue with the execution of the C65 Sandstorm and the Sandstorm Blackout. The two versions are essentially the same watch, but the aesthetic is welcomely varied as neither version seems to lose the plot despite telling the same story in a different way. The C65 Sandstorm is bright and a bit Teutonic with its metallic dial, brushed finish (which kind of reminds me of last-gen Aston Martin gauges), and a welcome pop of color from the markers, date display, and seconds hand. Conversely, the Sandstorm Blackout is a bit less serious, with sand-colored accents adding contrast to the black case treatment and warm red accents. 

As mentioned, both are 38mm wide with a thickness of 11.6mm and a lug-to-lug of just 43.6mm. Those wrist-friendly proportions are backed by a large screw-down crown, 150 meters of water resistance, a sapphire crystal, 20mm lugs, solid steel caseback, and a Sellita SW200 automatic movement. 

COSC certified and ticking at 4 Hz, the SW200 is a reliable and everyday-ready choice for this price point, and Sandstorm sets itself apart with a radial-style date display that sits in a channel separating the sandwich-style outer dial from the sector-style inner dial. The date is marked by a small red element indicating against a 31-day measure surrounding the aforementioned channel. This is a rather quiet and successful way of implementing a date, and I think the effect elevates the watch while offering something that feels, at least from photos, like a date-free design. To both Worn & Wound and Christopher Ward, nicely done, especially as this date implementation is not something Christopher Ward appears to offer on any other current model. 

Those interested should move quickly as there are only 300 C65 Sandstorms being made, with 200 in the steel guise and just 100 of the Blackout spec. Despite the truly limited format, the pricing represents a relatively small bump over the usual from Christopher Ward, with the C65 Sandstorm available today for $1,085 on a canvas strap or $1,205 on a steel bracelet. The C65 Sandstorm Blackout is available only on a canvas strap and costs $1,130. 

The Basics

Brand: Worn & Wound x Christopher Ward
Model: C65 Sandstorm and Sandstorm Blackout
 

Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 11.6mm
Lug to lug: 43.6mm
 Lug width: 20mm
Case Material: Steel (with optional black DLC)
Dial Color: Sand or steel
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 150 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Steel bracelet (for non DLC) or a canvas strap

The Movement

Caliber: Sellita SW200 COSC
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, pointer date
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 26
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC
 

Pricing & Availability

Price: C65 Sandstorm – $1,085 on canvas or $1,205 on a steel bracelet. C65 Sandstorm Blackout – $1,130.
Limited Edition: 200 units of the C65 Sandstorm, 100 for the C65 Sandstorm Blackout. 

For more, click here.

Quick Take

Celebrating 10 years of its Horological Machine N°3 "Frog," Maximilian Büsser & Friends is releasing a new Frog into the lineup (a watch so named because it resembles a smiling frog). We have covered the Frog in a few variations in the past, and with each new model, MB&F has taken the opportunity to play with the case construction. Today, with the HM3 Frog X, it continues that tradition, releasing a watch with a case made entirely out of sapphire. There are three color variations of the new HM3 Frog X: Purple, blue, and turquoise – and each one is limited to 10 pieces. 

Initial Thoughts

The HM3 was the third timepiece produced by MB&F – hence the naming convention. Ben Clymer put it best in his write up for the HM3 Poison Dart Frog when he said, "Max Büsser and Co. know how to get the most mileage out of their hard work." With that, he was referencing the fact that the brand more often tweaks existing models, creating fun new iterations of known designs. With this new release, the HM3 Frog X has shed its skin altogether, in favor of the aforementioned sapphire crystal case. 

Looking at the watch head-on, you can see from where the name is derived. The dual, prominently domed crystals quite obviously represent frog's eyes (as does the grinning mouth motif just beneath). By utilizing sapphire for the case material, you can see almost the entire movement under the hood. That movement is the three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht / Agenhor, and powered by a Girard-Perregaux base. With the see-through case, the watch forgoes a date complication. 

The purple, blue, and turquoise dial variants feature a matching colored battle-axe rotor, as well matching colored lume (i.e. purple lume for the purple variant). Additionally, there is a "secret message" crown which reflects light rays to project the MB&F battle-axe icon using Rayform technology. Continuing with the frog motif, the watch sports two thin domes, milled out of aluminum (for lightness), which indicate the hours and minutes, rotating under markers which are designed to resemble the lateral pupils of a frog's eyes. 

While I may not be able to envision myself pulling one of these off (though I would certainly try), I can absolutely appreciate the forward-thinking design. In a time with so much uniformity in the market, and an excessive focus on vintage-leaning modern watches, it is nice to see MB&F so steadfast in its effort to continue iterating on this design. Each Frog X watch comes fitted on a matching colored alligator strap with a titanium custom-designed folding buckle, and each watch is available now. 

The Basics

Brand: MB&F
Model: HM3 Frog X

Diameter: 48.3 mm
Thickness: 17.5mm
Case Material: Sapphire crystal
Dial Color: Purple, blue, or turquoise
Indexes: Arabic numerals
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Hand-stitched alligator strap with titanium custom-designed folding buckle

The Movement

Caliber: Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht / Agenhor, powered by a Girard-Perregaux base.
Functions: Hours and minutes transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to rotating domes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz
Jewels: 36
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Hours on one dome (aluminum dome rotating in 12 hours) and minutes on second dome (aluminum dome rotating in 60 minutes). "Secret message" crown reflects light rays to project the MB&F battle-axe icon using Rayform technology.

Pricing & Availability

Price: $152,000
Availability: Immediately
Limited Edition: Yes, 10 pieces in each color

For more, click here.

Watches & Wonders Geneva, the annual trade show scheduled for April 7 to 13, 2021, will be a digital-only event, show organizers announced today. 

"In view of the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, the exhibitor committee has decided to cancel the physical Salon that would have been held at Palexpo," the show said in a statement. "The decision is seen as the most responsible course of action, given the current health crisis and uncertainties as to how the situation may evolve."

Instead, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which owns and organizes the show, said it would hold a 100% digital edition of the show, in which all 34 brands scheduled to attend the physical show will participate. 

This marks the second year that COVID-19 has forced the cancellation of the 29-year-old show, formerly known as SIHH. This year, with COVID raging, the show shifted to a digital format at www.watchesandwonders.com. It debuted on April 25 with around a dozen brands introducing new products. For 2021, the show says it will "roll out an upgraded version of the watchesandwonders platform… Additional services and features will be introduced, including live chats and streaming, so that the event can be enjoyed all over the world."

The cancellation of the physical show in 2021 is the latest twist in a series of COVID-caused setbacks for Switzerland's two major watch trade shows. Hardest hit was Baselworld, which also canceled its show scheduled for March this year. An attempt to reschedule the show for January 2021 turned into a fiasco when Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chopard, and Chanel shocked show management by abruptly withdrawing from the show to join Watches & Wonders Geneva for 2021. That forced Baselworld's owners, Basel's MCH Group, to cancel the 2021 show and ultimately abandon the show entirely after 103 years, retiring the Baselworld brand.

The five "Rolexit" brands will participate in the digital Watches & Wonders salon. They join 10 Richemont Group brands, which have long anchored the show. Show organizers say they are continuing to recruit brands for the 2021 digital edition and hope to have as many as 50 brands participating.

Meanwhile, we'll see what the impact of today's announcement is on HourUniverse, the new watch and jewelry show MCH created to replace Baselworld. It is scheduled to be held in Basel at the former Baselworld venue April 8-12, 2021, at the same time as Watches & Wonders Geneva.

The Rolex Submariner is the most famous dive watch in the world. It's arguably the world's best-known timepiece. The Sub has evolved over the years to include different sizes, date and no date versions, as well as various metals for its case, its bracelet, and its bezel. It's been a tough and durable tool watch, and it's been a symbol of luxury all at once. The Submariner can be sometimes subtle, sometimes not. This year, we were offered a glimpse of the future of the Rolex Submariner in an updated collection that uses a slightly larger case size – it's now 41mm in diameter, following up on the 40mm case of the previous generation. Today, we're taking a closer look at the ref. 126619LB, the all-white-gold Submariner with blue Cerachrom bezel, black dial, and 70-hour automatic movement with date.

The new ref. 126619LB isn't the first white-gold Submariner Date to feature a blue bezel in Cerachrom, of course. Most readers will be very familiar with the previous iteration of this watch, the ref. 116619 "Smurf," which the watch you see above replaces. But while the Smurf had a matching blue dial that seemed instantly to convey that it's heavy white-gold luxury, the watch you see here manages to retain a bit more of its tool-watch character by virtue of its comparatively austere black dial. Place it on your wrist, of course, and you'll instantly know exactly what you've gotten yourself into. There's lots of gold in that case and bracelet. 

As a Batman GMT lover, this is a color scheme that I can easily get behind. To my eye, it's an improvement over the Smurf that better achieves what, at least in my mind, people seeking out a solid white-gold sport watch want. Which is to say, low-key luxury. I mean, there are plenty of yellow-gold options out there.

Two of the most talked-about aspects of the new Submariner watches are their implementation of a new case size, which features thinner lugs, which I think make for a more balanced watch, as well as the implementation of an automatic movement featuring the more efficient Chronergy Escapement and a power reserve that's been stretched out to 70 hours. While the movement in the new no-date Sub (which was also seen in a range of new Oyster Perpetual models) was indeed new, debuting just this year, the movement in this and the several other Submariner Date models is one that we know well, the cal. 3235. It's in the latest generation Sea-Dweller, many executions of the Datejust, and other Rolex watches too. Nonetheless, it's new to the Submariner Date, a watch that was due for the Chronergy upgrade, and it represents a significant upgrade over the previous-generation Submariner Date.

There was a bit of controversy surrounding the release of the 41mm Submariner, of course, stemming from the fact that Rolex's most instantly recognizable timepiece had crossed the 40mm Rubicon. I myself have to admit that I was pretty shocked when I read the headline to our own initial coverage of the 2020 Sub launch. Wasn't 40mm a sacrosanct number when it came to watch size? Why would they do this? After reading much of the coverage and thinking about it myself, I came to the conclusion that Rolex is probably a bit more interested in how its watches wear than in the psychological effect, positive or negative, that one millimeter might have on die-hard aficionados. The lugs are now slimmer than they were on the previous version of the Submariner, and some have observed that the new version wears more comfortably than its 40mm predecessor, too.

Hallmarks on the undersides of those slightly slimmer lugs tell you that this new watch is solid 18-karat white gold, but I think that many casual observers unfamiliar with blue-bezeled Submariners would probably assume it's made of stainless steel. To my mind, this is about as low-key a precious metal Rolex sports watch as I have seen since the original white gold, Oyster-braceleted Pepsi GMT when it debuted with a black dial. 

In order to accommodate the slightly svelter lugs and the fact that the case is a touch larger, Rolex has drawn on a broader bracelet (the lug width is 21mm now, as opposed to 20), which makes for a more stable wearing experience. The bracelet has a slight taper to it, as you'd expect, as well as the familiar Glidelock clasp, which allows on-the-fly adjustments of up to 5mm without a tool. As with the "Smurf," the white gold Oyster bracelet has links featuring a brushed finish to the outer links and contrasting polished finish on the central links. This contrast is particularly noticeable in the two photos above.

I believe that on a philosophical level, you're either in the gold sports watch camp, or you're not. I'm not quite there yet. And while I think I could be persuaded in that direction, this watch's price tag is high enough that, for now, it remains a purely academic question. Don't get me wrong, I think it's a cool watch and prefer it to the Smurf, but the no-date Submariner is a watch I'd sooner seek out. And that's coming from somebody who bought a Black Bay Fifty-Eight recently and considered his dateless dive watch itch scratched. What I will say is that I can definitely see the new white-gold Submariner converting people who had been circling the around the Smurf with glancing interest, perhaps kicking a tire or two, but just couldn't get down with the full blue treatment.

The Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126619LB. White-gold case with black dial and blue Cerachrom bezel. Water resistance to 300 meters. Rolex manufacture cal. 3235 with Chronergy escapement and 70 hours of power reserve vibrating at 28,800 vph in 31 jewels. White-gold Oyster bracelet with Glidelock clasp. Price: $39,650. For more, visit Rolex.

It's kind of a tough time to be a tourbillon. Complications generally have at least a little bit of an air of let-them-eat-cake about them (okay, probably not the chronograph), but they can often get away with it for different reasons. Chiming complications can plead the undeniable craft which, even today, it still takes to make one; perpetual calendars can argue their connection to the cosmic rhythms of the Earth's rotation and its annual journey around the Sun; the rattrapante chronograph can play the craft card (at least in its most classic version) and its greater utility than a standard chronograph. But the tourbillon? It's long since been generally conceded by even its most ardent fans that you don't need a tourbillon to get a more accurate watch. A lot of folks would argue that, strictly speaking, it's not even a complication, inasmuch as it doesn't display any additional information. Which is as good a rough and ready description of a complication as any – though it leaves out a lot of watchmaking which is indisputably complicated to do, including ultra-thin watchmaking. 

Still, tourbillons continue to fascinate watch enthusiasts and watchmakers alike – no less a master than Roger Smith has gone on record as saying he'd like to make one – and given the number of tourbillons of all kinds released every year, it's clear that folks are still very much interested in owning them as well. As with most mechanical watchmaking, how you do it is at least as important nowadays as what it is you do, and a well-made tourbillon is still not only interesting to look at, but also a legitimate demonstration of watchmaking as an art as well as a technical exercise.

Jaeger-LeCoultre's new Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Moon is a quite beautiful example of the genre, with some interesting additional technical features which help distinguish it from the rest of the crowd. The full-rotor tourbillon movement is a relative rarity – JLC caliber 983, which looks to be the JLC cal. 973 automatic tourbillon, but with the addition of a moon-phase and date indication. The date indicator is a centrally mounted hand, which has a neat little trick up its sleeve (one we've seen before from JLC), which is that at midnight on the 14th, it jumps from one side of the aperture for the tourbillon to the other, landing on the 15. This is to keep the date hand from partially obscuring the view of the flying tourbillon (and it gives owners a reason to stay up until midnight on the 14th, too). The main moon-phase display shows the Moon as seen from the Northern Hemisphere, but there is also, around the main display, a double-sided hand that shows the moon-phase in the Southern Hemisphere on the left, and the age of the Moon on the right.

This is a complicated tourbillon in a pretty classic idiom. The round, rose-gold case is 41.5mm x 12.10mm. That does not, at first, sound particularly thin these days – not with the number of extremely flat tourbillon movements that have debuted over the last decade or so (and culminating, of course, with the Bulgari Octo-Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic). The case alloy is JLC's proprietary Le Grand Rose alloy, in which a small amount of palladium is added to help resist corrosion and discoloration. (Rose-gold alloys stabilized with metals from the platinum group have become increasingly popular in the watch industry since the introduction of Everose by Rolex in 2005.)

However, it helps to keep a few points in mind. The calibers 983 and 973 are full-rotor self-winding tourbillons – this is a surprisingly rare sub-genre in the world of automatic tourbillons which have tended, especially as the race to produce extra-flat tourbies heated up, to have either micro-rotor (the Piaget caliber 1270P) or peripheral rotor designs (Bulgari, Breguet). There are other full-rotor tourbillons – most recently from Audemars Piguet in the Code 11.59 collection. AP's Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon uses the central rotor caliber 2950, and it's the first time AP has had a central rotor flying tourbillon in its collection – in a watch which, with no complications, comes in at 41mm x 11.80mm.  

A full-rotor design is always going to be thicker than a micro-rotor or peripheral rotor design, and the JLC manages to be just 0.30mm thicker than the Code with the addition of the moon-phase display and date. That said, I don't think this watch is going to necessarily make anyone emit a low whistle of wonder at its slim profile, but considering the fact that the very flattest automatic tourbillons, with peripheral or micro-rotor winding systems, are roughly 5-7mm affairs, a 12.10mm-thick full-rotor complicated tourbillon ain't too shabby.

You don't usually think of tourbillons as the toughest category of watches ever to come down the pike, but the caliber 983, despite the lyricism of the dial, hands, and case, looks to be a pretty sturdy piece of kit. The lower bridge for the tourbillon has got all the reassuring solidity of a suspension bridge, and the rotor shares with the movement plate and bridges a general feel of overbuilt reliability not often found – okay, virtually never found – in extra-flat watchmaking. 

Whenever a tourbillon comes out we (by which I mean me, I guess) have a reflexive tendency to talk about the fact that tourbillons are not the aid to accuracy today which Breguet intended them to be when he patented his invention back in 1801. But I think that consideration is probably less important in thinking about tourbillons today than appreciating them for what they are – a living fossil (I mean that in a good way) of horological history and one that is still relevant as an exercise in craft. They're tons of fun to look at, too – I don't know how many dozens of tourbillons I've seen over the last 20 years, but I still get a kick out of them. This one from JLC is not going after any records, nor it is offering anything groundbreaking technically, but it is a very attractive complicated tourbillon wristwatch with enough personality to stand on its own, without needing to stand on a podium to do so.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Tourbillon Moon: case JLC Le Grand Rose red gold, 41mm x 12.10mm, water resistance 5 bar/50 meters. Movement, JLC caliber 983, flying tourbillon with the phase of the Moon in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, with jumping date indication. Full-rotor self-winding movement with 45-hour power reserve. Price, $81,500; find out more at Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.

For a closer look at the history of tourbillon manufacturing at JLC, check out our visit to JLC in Switzerland from 2016, right here.

Every watch comes off the factory floor with an official name – or at least a reference number. But a nickname? Watches have to earn a nickname. First, the community of watch lovers has to care enough to bestow one, and then, that name has to be good enough to catch on. The best ones supersede whatever the company had in mind, much in the way that the sports world decided the young man born as Earvin Johnson would instead be known as "Magic."

Nicknames are fun. Nicknames are cool. They're also pragmatic. They make a watch easier to remember. They capture the shape of the case, or the color of the bezel, or an important person who wore it. The "why" becomes less important over time. The nickname is what lasts.

For our own amusement, and because this is what we do for a living, we recently made a list of every important watch nickname in existence (we stopped at 60, though we could have kept going). Then we debated and ranked our favorites, based on each name's originality, how well it captures the spirit of the watch, and how widely used it's become. And now, we bring our dozen favorites to you. 

We encourage you to participate and vote for your favorite watch nicknames in the poll down below. There you will find our picks, as well as some that didn't make the cut. Next week, we'll reveal the results and crown the HODINKEE community champion.

12. Padellone

"Padellone" is the Italian word for "frying pan," and the name has been applied, as far as I'm aware, to at least two watches. 

The first, and probably the better known, is a Rolex – the ref. 8171 triple calendar with moon-phase. This is something of a unicorn watch for serious Rolex collectors – when one came up for auction last year at Phillips Geneva, it went for CHF 980,000 – and it's easy to understand why. It's a watch with tremendous personality – the muscular case has oodles of character and contrasts beautifully with the (for Rolex) quite complicated dial. 

The other is the Patek Philippe ref. 3448, which debuted in 1962 (the same year that brought us Dr. No and the Cuban Missile Crisis). Like the Rolex, it's a calendar complication with moon-phase, but packing serious horological heat in the form of the caliber 27-460 perpetual calendar. 

Although they are very different watches in terms of horological sophistication, what they do have in common is the frying-pan vibe. Both have for-their-time oversized cases, and both have slab-sided case flanks and large, sharply angled bezels – the two together would make a lovely, two-watch collection, if your finances can withstand getting out of the frying pan and into the fire.

– Jack Forster

11. Disco Volante

"Disco Volante" means flying saucer, and over the years, the nickname has applied – whether organically by enthusiasts, or optimistically by auctioneers – to any number of watches (often with dramatically stepped or otherwise unusual bezels).  

One of the most classic examples is the Patek Philippe ref. 2552, which was produced for about six years (1954-1960) and which epitomizes the many interesting experiments that took place among high-end watch brands, with unusual case designs, in the period just after the end of World War II. 

The 2552 has a fairly wide, stepped bezel and uses the Patek Philippe caliber 12-600 – the company's first automatic movement – along with a screwed-in caseback. It looks today like a rather restrained watch, but in 1955, it must have seemed very unusual for Patek – and irresistibly reminiscent of the saucers that seemed to be crowding into the skies and into the public's imagination. 

– Jack Forster

10. Dark Lord

What watch would Darth Vader wear? A Heuer Monaco Reference 74033N, aka the "Dark Lord," named after a devilish fantasy archetype hellbent on power. Think Sauron from Lord of the Rings or Voldemort from Harry Potter. The Dark Lord is essentially the Monaco that Steve McQueen made famous, but rendered in a spooky, blacked-out, menacingly matte PVD case. The dial is monochromatic, with the only pop of color coming from fluorescent 1970s orange on the hands associated with the chronograph functions. It's the watch Luke Skywalker might have worn had he fully yielded to the ways of the Dark Side and wielded a tangerine-colored lightsaber. 

– Cole Pennington

9. Nina Rindt

Creating a lasting icon takes a special mix of perfect timing, indelible appeal, and no small amount of personality. The same is true of watches, perhaps doubly so for the Universal Genève Compax "Nina Rindt," a stunning panda dial motorsports chronograph that earned its nickname thanks to its regular presence on the wrist of Nina Rindt, a model and the wife of one Jochen Rindt, a massively talented Austrian Formula One diver from the mid-to-late 1960s.

So prolific was the trackside pairing of Nina and her bund-borne UG that the white-on-black version of the watch was soon known as the "Evil Nina." Insanely collectible and deeply connected to the golden era of motorsports, Nina only adds to the Compax's considerable clout. It's still exciting to imagine Jochen hunting pole position as she timed laps from the pits using her beloved chronograph. 

– James Stacey

8. Ed White

The Omega Speedmaster ref. 105.003 is called the "Ed White" with good reason – it's the reference astronaut Ed White wore when he became the first American to perform a spacewalk during the Gemini IV mission in 1964. White died during a launch-pad test of Apollo 1 systems only a year later, but the watch lives on to commemorate his pioneering role in manned space flight.

It's one of my favorite nicknames for a lot of reasons. I'm old enough to remember watching men walk on the Moon on live TV, and the Speedmaster was the first watch I can remember wanting (thanks to its advertising campaign, I don't think there was a would-be astronaut anywhere who didn't know the Gemini and Apollo astronauts wore Speedmasters). Second, the name and the watch represent the early, heady days of manned space flight, when giant space stations, moon bases, and maybe even an exciting alien invasion or two seemed right around the corner. Thirdly, the watch itself is a classic reference and one whose details still have the power to quicken the pulse of any Speedmaster enthusiast.

What I like most about the nickname, though, is that it represents more than a watch. It's the name of a brave individual who lost his life, far too young, in the cause of expanding human knowledge and helping us take our first tentative steps into a larger universe. 

The Ed White Speedmaster will always remind me of the man who uttered something even more poignant and memorable than Neil Armstrong's first words on the lunar surface. White was so entranced by his experience during his spacewalk that he had to be ordered back into the capsule by ground control, at which point he said, "I'm coming back in…and it's the saddest moment of my life." 

– Jack Forster

7. Hulk

The only thing missing from the Rolex "Hulk" Submariner is a pair of ripped purple shorts. It's not the first nickname given to a Sub, but we think it's the best. Other contenders include the "Kermit," (so named for its green bezel and…well, that's pretty much it), and the white-gold, blue-bezel "Smurf." But in the end, neither of those packs as strong of a punch as the Hulk.

Unlike the Kermit, the statement-making Hulk is all green, with a sunray dial to boot. And it earns its nickname with more than just color. This green beast was released in 2010, into the then-new Rolex maxi-case – with a wider, more hulking profile and a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel. Of all the Submariner nicknames, this one really earned its moniker. It's the kind of watch you look at, hear the name, and go, "yeah, I get it."

– Danny Milton

6. Pussy Galore

The reference 6542 has a lot going for it. For one, it's Rolex's first-ever GMT. Second, it has the infamous bakelite bezel known for its fragility and very minor radioactivity. And finally, it has a nickname that's impossible to forget: "Pussy Galore," the watch famously worn by the late Honor Blackman in her role as a villain in one of my personal favorite James Bond films, Goldfinger. (It's the one where Shirley Eaton is murdered via gold body paint). Galore is Goldfinger's personal pilot (hence the 6542). She meets Bond and rebuffs his advances, but is ultimately seduced by him – all while wearing this badass watch. 

The Pussy Galore is one of the few watches named after a woman. The only other example I can think of is the Nina Rindt...that is until the "Cara" catches on. 

– Cara Barrett

5. Snowflake

Some of you are wondering which Snowflake, because there's more than one. But the truth is that we love Snowflakes from both Switzerland and Japan. 

The original is the second-generation Tudor Submariner, early examples of which date to 1969. These Tudor Subs earned the moniker due to their unusual Snowflake hour hands, which made a stark contrast with the Mercedes hands of earlier Tudor Subs and, more famously, Rolex Submariners. Collectors love these watches, and searching for vintage examples, one will find both black and blue-dialed variations of the Tudor "Snowflake" Sub. The latter of these was honored earlier this year when Tudor came out with the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue, calling to mind a watch worn by the French Marine Nationale. When you have a design that has inspired a quirky nickname like Snowflake, you simply have to bring it back. And that's just what Tudor's done with its Black Bay and Pelagos lines, both of which sport Snowflake hands.

Another Snowflake, of course, belongs to Grand Seiko. But in the case of that company's ref. SBGA211, the nickname comes from the wispy texture of its soft white dial, which quite effectively calls to mind freshly fallen snow. Coined by fans, the apt sobriquet captures the essence of a watch that's achieved a cult-like following since it came out 10 years ago, becoming one of Grand Seiko's most popular references and easily its best-known nickname. There are other watches from Grand Seiko that play on the Snowflake theme. There's the Blue Snowflake SBGA407, also called the Skyflake, with a light-blue textured dial. There's also one with red accents on its white textured dial. You guessed it: It's called the Red Snowflake. It seems like sister brand Seiko wasn't content to let Grand Seiko keep all the Snowflakes to itself. When it released a similar-looking watch in the SARX055, collectors took to calling it the "Baby GS Snowflake."

– Jon Bues

4. Seiko Tuna

Picking a single Seiko nickname is hard, as dozens of alternative (and deserving) monikers exist to help fans sort through the world of Seiko's endless reference numbers. We love them all, from the "Turtle" to the "Monster," but our favorite is the distinctive, overbuilt, and entirely charming Seiko "Tuna."

Originally launched in 1975, the O.G. Tuna is the heavily shrouded and entirely dive-ready reference 6159-7110, which was an incredibly cutting-edge design at the time. Since then, the name has graced various iterations of Seiko's extra-chunky dive watch, including those with quartz movements, the much-loved SBDX005 and SBDX011, the Seiko Arnie, the "Baby Tuna", and many many more. While nicknames serve as a vital shorthand for any and all Seiko enthusiasts, this one's special. For a tough, burly, and entirely unapologetic dive watch that sits loud and proud on your wrist, it's tough to out-dive a Tuna. 

– James Stacey

3. President

If you're trying to conceal an extramarital affair, you generally don't want a record of the tryst engraved in gold. But that didn't stop Marilyn Monroe from presenting John F. Kennedy with a Rolex Day-Date inscribed on the caseback as follows:

JACK
With love as always
from
MARILYN
May 29th, 1962

Kennedy, recognizing that Monroe had just blown up his spot in the form of a luxury timepiece, chose not to wear the watch. But he became the first president to own the exciting new Rolex Day-Date, which had been released in 1956, and his successor Lyndon Johnson became the first president to strut around the White House with one on his arm. The watch has been known as the President ever since, though JFK's could just as easily have been nicknamed the Mullet: business up front, party in the back. 

– Nick Marino

2. Paul Newman

The moniker 'Paul Newman' is so commonplace in the watch collecting community now that it's almost hard to believe it was called anything else. But when it was first released in the 1960s, it was referred to as an "Exotic Dial" Daytona because of the unusual square-ended markers on the sub-dials. And as the story goes, no one wanted them.

Fast forward to the early 1990s, Italian and American watch dealers started picking up these exotic dial Daytonas by the hundreds (no joke) and gave them the new title of 'Paul Newman' Daytona, all because of one famous photo of a certain blue-eyed actor. The name stuck. What is now arguably the most famous (or at least recognizable) vintage watch drew its identity from a singular image of a singular man, and it changed the entire way we think about and collect vintage watches.

– Cara Barrett

1. Pepsi

Take one look at the red-and-blue color scheme on the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II, and you'll know why it's called the "Pepsi" – though it's worth remembering that the original inspiration came from yet another company, Pan American Airways, as the watch was originally made for Pan Am pilots. Pan Am collapsed in 1991, and Pepsi has been using red and blue in its logo since the 1950s, so the soft-drink firm made a natural reference point in replacement.

In a funny way, the watch marks an early example of two mega-brands coming together for a collaboration, however unofficial this one may be. Pepsi currently ranks no. 36 on the Forbes Most Valuable Brands list, with Rolex at no. 80. The omnipresence of both of these brands makes the cross-recognition easy and has allowed the nickname to transcend niche watch collecting circles into the world at large. It's an obvious nickname, and that's refreshing.

That's what I like. 

– Cole Pennington

We believe every vintage watch has a story to tell. That's what HODINKEE was founded on, and since 2016, we've used our knowledge to bring you a curated selection of vintage watches in the HODINKEE Shop that you won't find elsewhere, all delivered with an emphasis on education, transparency, and storytelling. And now, we're kicking things up a notch. 

You'll still find us here every Wednesday morning, and we'll still be highlighting what we love and what you should know about every vintage watch that appears in the HODINKEE Shop. What's new, however, is the amount of watches you'll discover each week. We've grown our team of specialists, and we're now able to deliver a larger – and broader – selection of vintage watches than ever before. You'll also learn about the highlight pieces in each week's assortment in articles like the below, directly from the team members who are most excited about them. The comments section is also now open for discussion, because we want to hear from you – don't hesitate to let us know what you think and what you'd like to see from us going forward.  

This Week's Vintage Watches

With this week's vintage lineup, we have a selection of over 15 new watches in the HODINKEE Shop. Among them are six standouts our team has highlighted here – one born out of a racing-inspired ad campaign in the 1970s, one whose play with innovative materials and design will make you feel like a secret agent, one that's an unexpectedly great work-from-home desk companion, and three that are some big players with subtle strength. Spoiler alert: One of these is a Rolex ref. 6239 'Big' Daytona whose finer points are sure to appeal to a collector with a keen eye for the right details and nuances of a real vintage gem. You can check out all these watches for yourself in the HODINKEE Shop, or you can read on to learn more about the six watches teased here.  

A 1942 Longines Pocket Watch Ref. 3005 And A 1966 Rolex Cosmograph 'Big' Daytona Ref. 6239

By Brandon Frazin

These last few months, spending more time working from home, have helped me gain an appreciation for more aspects of watch collecting – specifically pocket watches. Personally, I don't own any proper pocket watches, but I do have a few stopwatches that I've been playing around with more recently. These have the same feeling as a traditional pocket watch, just with a different function. After all this time thinking more about pocket watches, this Longines came across my desk, and it was love at first sight.  

This stainless-steel pocket watch from the '40s has a beautiful silvered cross-hair dial with small seconds at six o'clock and blued steel hands. When first holding it, I was surprised how solid this thing felt and had to double-check to see if it was gold. I love the way this Longines has aged with patina on the dial. The bow at the top around the crown has even remained tight when adjusting it. Legibility was clearly the motivation behind this pocket watch, with bold hour markers and hash marks around the dial. Today, pocket watches might seem a bit anachronistic, but they are an ideal desk companion, especially when working from home more. Warm up your work-from-home space now by popping over to the HODINKEE Shop. 

In the realm of chronographs, the Daytona is considered king by many. And for good reason, too. Once you put this watch on your wrist, you can't help but stare at it. This model we have here, the 6239, is the original reference Rolex came out with in 1963. However, this very watch is from 1966. By this time, it was already being referred to as the "Daytona" instead of the original "Cosmograph" name, yet it features both "Daytona" and "Cosmograph" on the dial. The watch we have here today has a black dial with silver-white registers in the reverse panda fashion. In addition, the combination of the steel bezel and pump pushers are very sleek and unassuming.  

This very watch is called the "Big" Daytona because of the large font used for the Daytona name at the top of the dial. In the watch collecting world, it's all about the small details, and the same goes for this Daytona. The combination of the "Big" Daytona verbiage and other early features, such as the "300" unit bezel and "long hour hand," gives this watch some serious character – but, to be honest, these details are quite subtle. This 6239 is really a connoisseur's watch. It's a bit under the radar compared to an exotic dial, and for that reason, I am really into it. Check out all the details here in the HODINKEE Shop. 

A 1970s Porsche Design By IWC Compass Watch And A 1970s Heuer Autavia 'Pre-Viceroy' Ref. 1163

By Saori Omura

I truly appreciate the vision and creativity Porsche Design and IWC came up with for this Compass watch in 1978, a time when most companies were focused on large cases and multi-colored watches. Just from a watch design standpoint, it's stoic and zeroes in on functionality with an all-black PVD finish on a super-light aluminum case and bracelet (which only weighs 70 grams). Altogether, it was a fresh use of unexpected materials and finishing at the time.  

This watch is actually pretty cool as it is, but just like a gadget watch found in a spy movie, what makes this model extra interesting is the compass and emergency beacon mirror hidden inside. I hope no one has to use these functions in a real-life emergency situation, but if you do, you're sure to escape in style! Channel your inner secret agent by snatching up this model in the HODINKEE Shop. 

The Heuer Autavia Viceroy grabs your attention immediately for its red and black colorway. The watch was a cross-promotion between Heuer and Viceroy (a U.K.-based tobacco company) in 1972, which ran for seven months and was geared toward auto-racing fans. This promotion would be unlikely to happen today, of course, but how tempting would it have been to be able to buy this chronograph for $88 (taking inflation into consideration, it would still be around just $550 today).  

This example is technically a pre-Viceroy example that dates prior to the start of the partnership, as it lacks a "V" marking on the case. More importantly, however, the watch comes from the original owner, who purchased it at the time and took care of it for almost 50 years. When the owner shared his story with me, he fondly recounted his memory of learning about this watch through his interest in racing. This type of interaction with owners of vintage watches is one of the things I appreciate most – it's a reminder that each watch has a story and often takes a person back to a specific time in their lives. Make your own memory with this Heuer Autavia by visiting the HODINKEE Shop. 

A 1968 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 1803 'Red Quarter Dial' And A 1970s Cartier Tank In 18k Yellow Gold

By Cait Bazemore

This week, I've chosen two models I consider to be "power watches" in their own right: the Rolex Day-Date and the Cartier Tank. Both models have a story as old as time. The Day-Date quickly became the ultimate status symbol for businessmen and world leaders after finding its place on the wrist of countless U.S. presidents and other influential figures. And, while the Cartier Tank is invariably a unisex model, it's become a status symbol (similar to the Day-Date) among some of the most prominent women of our time, from Princess Diana to Jackie Kennedy-Onassis and Michelle Obama. Their history precedes them, and thus, these two models could easily sell themselves. However, it's worth highlighting what makes the particular iterations of these icons we have in the Shop today so special. 

Over time, the President variation of the Day-Date has often come to overshadow the collection. If you're looking for a bold presence on the wrist, the yellow-gold Day-Date with a traditional President bracelet is the way to go. However, if you find yourself seeking a more subtle watch that says, "I've arrived," to those with an eye keen enough to notice, I think you'll appreciate this unique Day-Date 'Red Quarter Dial.' At its core, you have everything that makes the Day-Date the highly functional yet equally handsome model you know and love. It features the day function discreetly placed at noon and the date window with cyclops lens at three o'clock. However, you'll notice this particular iteration has a Spanish language day disc. Still, what really makes this Day-Date special is the minute track featuring fifteen-minute increments with 'Red Quarters' markings at 60, 15, 30, and 45. These red accents at the quarters of the hour not only enhance the readability but also add a nice piece of visual interest to the dial beyond the standard Day-Date. Lastly, I love the addition of our HODINKEE Smooth Calf strap in taupe as opposed to a bracelet. Altogether, the combination of the 'Red Quarter Dial' and strap give this Day-Date a quiet confidence that I really appreciate. You can make it yours by heading over to the HODINKEE Shop. 

I don't personally own a Cartier Tank, but in my previous life as a freelancer, this is the model I would request on loan time and time again from my vintage clients. And when I say, "this model," I mean something strikingly similar to this iteration on a supple, dark-toned leather strap as opposed to a bracelet. Whether I was attending a cocktail attire soiree or a more formal black-tie gala, the Cartier Tank always fit the bill. (Of course, I would wear the watch in between events with a simple sweater and jeans, and it looked just as great). As cliché as it sounds, the Cartier Tank is truly that versatile watch you can dress up or down, any season, anytime, any place. And, on top of being really beautiful and functional, it holds a special place in both watchmaking history and our culture. The Cartier Tank was one of the first watches designed for style over function and laid the foundation for a more contemporary approach to design. Yet, it also retains elements, like the black Roman numeral hour markers, the sword-shaped hands, and the sapphire cabochon on the crown, that make it unmistakably Cartier and decisively timeless. The enduring nature of the Cartier Tank's design is exemplified through its array of iconic wearers, like the aforementioned women and outstanding men, such as Andy Warhol, Muhammed Ali, and Cary Grant. Check out this model, now in the HODINKEE Shop. 

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here. 

Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Click here. 

Welcome to another installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Chad Goodman, Joe Behnke, Steve Berg, Adam Walczak, and Savraj Chana.

Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story.

Chad Goodman And His Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600

Chad lives in Miami Beach, FL, and his watch is the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600. A few years ago, he decided he would celebrate getting an orchestral conducting job by getting a watch – and in 2019, he became conducting fellow of the New World Symphony in Miami Beach. He chose this Christopher Ward and had it inscribed "New World Symphony" on the back as a reminder of the pursuit of his dream.

Joe Behnke And His NOMOS Orion Anthracite

Joe is a medical student and Ph.D. candidate in Atlanta. A few years ago, when he was browsing watches in Las Vegas, his two older brothers decided it was time for him to get a nice watch. He chose this NOMOS Orion because of its sleek, elegant, and simple design – but what he really values about it is that it represents his relationship with his brothers.

@jabehnke3

Steve Berg And His Rolex Daytona

Steve is a mechanical engineer from Milwaukee, WI, whose daily wear is a Rolex Daytona. He put his name on the waitlist in late 2016 and received the call in late 2018. To him, it's the ideal engineer's watch, representing excellence in quality and manufacturing. He originally had it on a rubber strap, but while he was in Finland for work, he visited watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva, who recommended the strap Steve wears it on today.

@steve

Adam Walczak And His Poljot Watch

Adam is from southern Poland, and his watch is a Poljot from the 1980s. It's special to him because it belonged to his grandfather, who was given the watch after 25 years of work in the coal mining industry, and also because it introduced him to mechanical watches. He says his grandfather lives on in the watch.

@adawal0429

Savraj Chana And His Father's Omega Speedmaster Ref. 145.012

Savraj is from Kenya, where he runs an autobody shop with his father. His father bought this Omega Speedmaster ref. 145.012 in 1968, and wore it while working ever since – and it shows. The dial and hands were replaced during a repair, but Savraj searched and found the original dial. As a budding collector, Savraj says that you are meant to wear and enjoy watches, just as his father did.

Ready To Submit Your Own Watch Story? Here's How It Works

1. Pick one watch that is very special to you, and get your camera phone ready.

2. Record a video telling us your most interesting or meaningful story about your watch. Let's say 2-3 minutes is the sweet spot – if you go longer, that's okay. (And please remember to introduce yourself: your name and where you are from.)

3. Get creative, keep it clean, and have fun! 

4. Take some photos on the wrist and a few shots of the watch so that we can proudly display them on our site. Horizontal, please.

5. To share your video and photos, you can either A) upload here; or B) upload to your preferred large file transfer service and send a link to mywatchstory@hodinkee.com.

Quick Take

What originally started in concept form has now hit the mainstream. Audemars Piguet has just announced a 41mm Royal Oak featuring a flying tourbillon, and it's available in three surprising variants – 18k pink gold (not that surprising), titanium (OK, OK, OK), and...steel (hey now). While this is not at all the first time that the Royal Oak has played host to a tourbillon, this is the first time that a non-concept model has rocked a flying tourbillon, and they've even thrown in automatic winding to boot. 

Initial Thoughts

The first Royal Oak Tourbillon dates back to the model's 25th anniversary and was launched in 1997. The new Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon follows that late-'90s lead within the now-modern 41mm format. AP reference nerds will want to take note of a new brand signature featured on these models, which for the first time is rendered in galvanic growth 18k gold (Audemars Piguet says the process is similar to 3D printing), a delicate process that was originally used for the lacquered dials of the Code 11.59 family. 

The three references are easily differentiated by their dials, with the steel 26530ST model featuring a radiant blue coloring over a tappisserie pattern that emanates from the center of the tourbillon. Likewise, the gold 26530OR model has a smoked grey iteration of the same dial design. Finally, the titanium 26530TI goes its own way with a truly gorgeous and entirely understated sandblasted slate grey dial. As a quiet backdrop for a very flashy complication, this pairing strikes a lovely balance that looks to work beautifully with the 26530TI's titanium case and bracelet. 

These Royal Oaks deliver their high-flying functionality from Audemars Piguet's Calibre 2950, an automatically wound movement that ticks at 3 Hz while offering 65 hours of power reserve to keep the hands moving and that tourbillon spinning. While the 2950 was originally launched in the Code 11.59 line, flying tourbillons are a flagship complication for Audemars Piguet and are characterized by a tourbillon that does not have an upper (dial side) tourbillon bridge. Supported by the backside of the mechanism (via a component called the arbor), flying tourbillons allow a better view of the animated function as it spins. Since that captivating motion is a huge part of a tourbillon's appeal, if you're going to pay for a tourbillon, you might as well see as much of it as possible, right?

As is the case with all Royal Oaks, one really must see them in the metal, and I'm quite excited to see live photos and wrist shots (especially of the titanium version) as these undoubtedly exclusive watches start to find homes with lucky new owners. Pricing is stated as "available upon request" and, while I most certainly did request, AP must have known there was no way I could consider myself a qualified buyer. Tourbillon or not, I suppose I need not fly too close to the sun.  

The Basics

Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon
Reference Number: 26530ST, 26530TI, 26530OR

Diameter: 41mm
Case Material: Steel, titanium, or 18k pink gold
Dial Color: Blue (steel), grey (titanium), grey with Evolutive Tapisserie (pink gold)
Indexes: Applied
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Integrated matched metal bracelet

The Movement

Caliber: AP Calibre 2950
Functions: Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon
Diameter: 30.9mm
Thickness: 6.24mm
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21, 600 vph
Jewels: 27 

Pricing & Availability

Price: Available upon request
 

For more, click here.

Quick Take

In the 1970s, it was a tradition for Jack Heuer to gift 18k gold Heuer Carrera reference 1158CHN watches to Ferrari Formula One drivers (Heuer and Ferrari had a partnership at the time) as a show of good luck. Those watches were engraved on the back with the driver's name, though legend has it that their blood type was also engraved. Now, some 40 years later, TAG Heuer is making a similar gesture to Jack himself, by releasing the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition. This is a modern 42mm, 18k rose-gold chronograph inspired by that very 1158CHN – Jack Heuer's favorite watch – in celebration of his 88th birthday. 

Initial Thoughts

This not a vintage reissue, but a modern redesign taking inspiration from a vintage model. For starters, it is branded TAG Heuer on the dial (not simply Heuer), and secondly, it is a decidedly modern 42mm in diameter. That size gives way to a dial with a lot going on. There are the panda-esque subdials (so named for the way the contrast of the black against the lighter dial surface is reminiscent of a literal panda), applied markings, printed text, a chapter ring, a date window, and a small seconds counter. 

The case is all 18k rose gold, including the pushers and the crown. The hands and markers are described as being rose-gold colored, as are all of the "gold" flourishes on the dial surface. The dial is described as silver opaline in color and appearance. Toward the top of the dial is the serif-style Carrera wordmark above the applied brand logo. At the bottom of the dial is text that reads "Heuer 02 80 Hours," which is a reference to the movement. Moving outward is a chapter ring serving as the chronograph seconds counter.

The movement inside the watch is the Calibre Heuer 02, an in-house, column-wheel, vertical-clutch chronograph movement featuring an impressive 80 hours of power reserve – hence the aforementioned text at the bottom of the dial. The sapphire exhibition caseback reveals the visible oscillating mass engraved with Jack Heuer's motto, "Time never stops, why should we?" Also engraved is Jack Heuer's signature, just below that quote. 

Speaking about the watch, Jack Heuer said, "I'm very touched that TAG Heuer reimagined my favorite watch for my birthday. It reminds me of many dear friends and thrilling years on the race track. I will wear it with pride and look forward to seeing it on the wrist of new generations of daring characters as well."

Jack Heuer is the great-grandson of Heuer founder Edouard Heuer and was the last member of the Heuer family to run the company (which he did from 1960 until 1982). He was a famed innovator, introducing a number of "firsts" to the watch industry. He was also a noted lover of automotive racing. The Carrera – his favorite collection – was also the first timepiece that he created entirely, choosing its name and helping design its aesthetic. Jack would later serve as honorary chairman of the company. 

This celebratory watch will be limited to 188 pieces. In addition to the aforementioned features, the watch also sports an applied rose-gold colored infinity loop, which the brand says is symbolic of Jack Heuer's birthday. It comes on a black alligator leather strap which also bears Jack's signature in gold lettering. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition is available for pre-order now, and to purchase in March, 2021. 

The Basics

Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition
Reference Number: CBN2041.FC8306

Diameter: 42mm
Case Material: 18k rose gold
Dial Color: Silver opaline
Indexes: Gold colored markers
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap

The Movement

Caliber:  Calibre Heuer 02
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Diameter: 32mm
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz
Jewels: 33

Pricing & Availability

Price: CHF 18,000
Availability: March, 2021 but available for pre-order now
Limited Edition: Yes, 188 pieces

For more, click here.

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After a six month hiatus, it's the return of The TGN Film Club! Now in Volume 5, Jason and James reprise their roles as would-be movie critics to bring you ten varied films to add to your winter watch list. From cycling in hell to canoeing into the unknown, learning to be a spy, saving the world, and taking on a neo-nazi played by Patrick Stewart, it's safe to say this may be the most wild list ever to hit a Film Club.

Aside from their movie picks, the TGN boys have a lot more for episode 131, including Jason's new Land Rover Defender, a new (and great) NATO strap, and updates about both Jason's and James' watch discomfort zones (new watch alert!). It's an action-packed episode that's proudly brought to you Seiko – thanks so much for listening.

Show Notes...

1:40
Jason's new Defender 110
 

6:40
anOrdain Model 1
 

7:07
Jason's write up about getting a dress watch
 

16:14
Submechanophilia
 

20:39
Bremont MB-II
 

20:45
Crown and Buckle Matte Supreme NATO
 

21:00
Aquastar Deepstar
 

26:00
Seiko's New SPB Prospex Divers
 

30:12
Deliverance (1972)
 

36:28
Prisoners (2013)
 

38:59
A Sunday In Hell (1977)
 

43:02
The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014)
 

45:45
Spy Game (2001)
 

51:12
Edge of Tomorrow (2014)
 

56:13
The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (2013)
 

1:01:13
Green Room (2015)
 

1:05:30
Arctic (2018)
 

1:08:55
Good Time (2017)
 

1:16:13
The Wristorian
 

1:19:00
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