The time has come once again, and we're back with another roundup of oldies. With the inclusion of a watch penned by a Danish design legend, you'd better believe we're throwing you a curveball or two, but there's still a strong Rolex showing, thanks to both a Tru-Beat and a matte dial Explorer. For the chronograph heads, we've got two of note this week, including the famed Nina Rindt Compax from Universal Genève, and a particularly special Heuer Carrera in yellow gold. All this to say, it's a good one. 

1967 Universal Genève Compax Ref. 885103/02

It's not every day you spot a Nina Rindt on someone's wrist, which is why striking up a conversation is more than warranted when that day comes. The first time one caught my eye in the wild was a few years back on the corner of 47th Street and 5th Avenue in New York City, waiting to cross the street. I may or may not have gotten too excited, and yielded a look of disgust after trying to buy it off the gentleman's wrist, but my redemption came earlier this week at a red light. After pulling up and looking to my right, an iconic Compax variant stuck out like a sore thumb on the wrist of a lady driving a small sports car. As one does, I excitedly shouted "nice Nina" and sped off in search of an example to share with you. 

As the presence of a printed UG logo, matte-finished registers, and luminous sub-dial hands would suggest, you're looking at an example which hails from the watchmaker's second execution of the reference. With a serial number exceeding 2.54 million, their presence is more than correct, suggesting the originality of its components. Though some would be quick to disagree, I'd argue that these second execution examples are more attractive than their earlier counterparts, with a more impactful appearance thanks to their updated sub-dial hands. Nothing against the thinner and more reserved hands of those corresponding with earlier serials, but the second execution packs a more distinctive punch in my mind.

Elevating this piece to that next level of intrigue is its dial, which has gone through a metamorphosis of sorts. After years of wear and exposure to the elements, the once-black registers that grace the white dial's surface have achieved a pleasing tropical tone, with hints of brown beginning to emerge. Based on the photos, I'd wager this isn't one of those impossibly chocolatey scenarios, and instead a more subtle tropical tone which you'll catch only under certain lighting conditions. This isn't to say its tone won't further intensify with time, but it's important to buy the watch you want today, and not the one that'll tickle your fancy in ten years.

Craft & Tailored has the listing on this one, and they've set the asking price at $32,000. Additional details and photos can be accessed by clicking here.

1992 Verner Panton for Crival Ref. VP-02-H712-D

As someone who's currently in the midst of furnishing and decorating a new apartment, I've definitely spent more time than anyone should looking at chairs. Sensible chairs, wacky chairs, chairs I'm not sure I've even got the space for, etc. Without fail, Verner Panton's eponymous S-shaped chair pops up time and time again, tempting me to no end with its ergonomic curves. The design world is a rabbit hole if there ever was one, but every now and then, it'll lead you back to something of the horological variety. 

Just under three decades after the release of Panton's famed Vitra-produced chair, the Danish furniture designer emerged onto the scene with two watch designs. The first of the two is today's piece in question, sporting a square case with uniquely positioned lugs. Given the unconventional angle at which the strap connects to the watch, the strap itself is a custom cut that couldn't be more fitting for the timepiece. All of this adds up to a radical feel on the wrist, that's admittedly along the lines of many Gilbert Albert-designed Pateks, albeit in a different league. 

Despite being manufactured by Crival – the watchmaker best known for introducing the Lego watch – this piece is cased in sterling silver and has the hallmarks to prove it, not to mention a Dutch import hallmark. My favorite part about this piece is, despite being designed by Verner Panton, it doesn't exactly scream VP, making it a notable departure of sorts from his other works. I don't know about you, but I get excited whenever something uncharacteristic of an artist is made known.

This horological objet d'art is going up for auction on Wednesday at Quittenbaum Kunstauktionen of Munich, where it'll be offered with an estimate of €500 – €700. Get in on the action by following the link.

Rolex Tru-Beat Ref. 6556

Failure and Rolex are two words almost never heard in the same sentence, but upon mention of the Tru-Beat, there's an exception to be made. Originally introduced in 1954 as a medical professional's tool watch, the model touted a modified caliber at its core, affording the ability to track definite seconds, along the lines of what we're now used to seeing on quartz watches. Problem was, the market for such a uniquely capable watch was rather small, resulting in its eventual discontinuation just a few years after its release. As you can guess, the model followed in the footsteps of other discontinued Rolex references, and is now quite the hot commodity.

Its appeal boils down to three main points, the first of which is, rather unsurprisingly, rarity. Having already touched upon that, let's get into the other two, which are both design traits found beneath the crystal. Contrasting the bulk of similarly sized Rolex references, the Tru-Beat is distinguished by its crosshair dial, along with the matching red seconds hand and dial text. Even if the watch didn't tout deadbeat seconds, this sporty touch to an otherwise standard Oyster would attract serious interest within the market.

The truly Rolex-crazed will be delighted to hear that, unlike the bulk of Tru-Beats which remain in existence today, the movement powering this piece is the same one it originally left the factory with. Given the brief period during which these were produced as a result of minimal success, Rolex didn't manufacture a large supply of parts for the deadbeat seconds-equipped Cal. 1040. As a result, the bulk of examples which returned to Rolex for service were fitted with sweeping Cal. 1030 movements, effectively eliminating everything that makes a Tru-Beat a Tru-Beat. 

Hamburg's Cotrie Spezial Auktionen will be auctioning off this Rolex in a sale taking place tomorrow afternoon. Its estimate has been set at €5,000 — €8,000. Check it out here.

1971 Heuer Carrera Ref. 1158

Certain individuals are bound to get into certain watchmakers, and if you're into motorsports, chances are you either own or are after a vintage Heuer. Knowing the company's rich history in the timing of motorsport events, this should make perfect sense, but what might make less sense is the path to take upon entry into the game. Some will be quick to point you in the direction of Autavias, or early and borderline Bauhausian iterations of the Carrera, but for a true motoring nut, this next number is likely the best option you've got. 

You're looking at a Carrera which dates back to 1971, and corresponds with the reference number 1158. Being a 1158 and not a 1153, it's cased in brilliant 18k yellow gold, which has seemingly developed a layer of patina on its surface after years left unused. This reference holds a special place within the histories of both Heuer and motorsport as a whole, seeing as examples were selected and awarded to Scuderia Ferrari drivers by none other than Jack Heuer himself. If that's not reason enough to get excited about a watch, I'm not sure what is. 

As mentioned, it would appear as if the watch spent many of its years in storage instead of on the wrist. Though it was made to be enjoyed, its life to date has resulted in an opportunity to own what looks to be a near-perfect example with a flawless dial, and you can't complain about that. To complete the look, a branded, mesh bracelet in matching yellow gold would really be something. 

Bonhams will be offering this lavish Carrera in its upcoming London sale, taking place on Tuesday, September 22. Its estimate has been set at £5,000 — £7,000, and you can learn more here.

1967 Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016

Should you need an indication that the hype guiding modern watch pricing has gotten out of hand, do yourself a favor and see what new ceramic Submariners are trading for. Now that you've gotten that out of the way, review their retail prices, and next, the prices commanded by top quality vintage Rolexes. I don't know about you, but I'd rather buy in on a finite icon of another era than drop the same cash on something that's just gone into mass production.

As you'll likely already know, collecting vintage Rolex is all about honing in on the details. In that this Explorer dates back to 1967, and corresponds with a 1.7 million serial, it should have a splayed "frog-foot" coronet on its dial. That it does, but it's also got another trick up its sleeve in the form of puffy luminous numerals at three, six, and nine o'clock. To contextualize the extreme desirability this variant enjoys, consider the sizeable length of the Mark 1 frog-foot dial's run, and then compare that to the implementation of fat luminous markers, which is believed to stretch only from the 1.5 to 1.7 million serial range. In English, this means it's a ridiculously rare variant, and the only one on the market if I'm not mistaken. 

The way I see it, this variant represents the pinnacle of the serially produced, matte dial Ref. 1016 Explorers. Yes, this kind of money could put a gilt dial-fitted example on your wrist, but if we're being honest, it wouldn't be the example you'd want. Between the matte dial's more hard-wearing beauty, and how objectively difficult it is to track down one featuring fat lume, this one is in a league of its own. Whether you're looking for the final piece of the puzzle that'll complete your lineup, or are looking to make a splash in the vintage Rolex scene, this ought to be on your radar.

The Miami dealer Menta Watches has this one listed on its site for $19,750. Get the full scoop here. 

Earlier this week, Apple dropped a pair of new smartwatches: The flagship Apple Watch Series 6 and the more affordable Apple Watch SE. I was fortunate enough to get an example of the new Series 6 to try out less than 24 hours after it was first announced and wanted to share some early thoughts after spending a little bit of time with it. This isn't the usual in-depth review that you see from us after an Apple Watch announcement, and for two good reasons: 1) At its core, this version of the Watch is very similar to the Series 5 released last year, and I think most of what I said in that review still holds up; and 2) We filmed this video the same day my sample arrived, so there was no time for a true feature-by-feature breakdown.

The Series 6 does bring a bunch of new things to the table, including four new colorways, a bunch of new watch straps, new watch faces, and more. However, the most important thing about this year's new Apple Watch might be just how similar it is to last year's model. It feels like Apple has hit a groove with the Apple Watch and has really figured out what the Watch should be, what Apple Watch wearers want from their wrist-worn companion, and how they can make it feel fresh without trying to totally reinvent the wheel every 12 months.

In the video above, I break down the five most important things to know about the Apple Watch Series 6, covering both hardware and software updates, as well as some more strategic, big-picture things. I'm looking forward to spending more time with the Series 6 (and, in particular, getting to know the special Series 6 watch faces) over the next few weeks, so be sure to stay tuned for more in-depth coverage, coming soon. If you've gotten your hands on one, please let us know your first impressions down in the comments below too.

For more, visit Apple online.

Editor's note: Watch companies sometimes announce new products to the HODINKEE editorial team and the HODINKEE Shop at the same time. Please note that the editorial team and the Shop team produce their content independently of each other.

Each week, our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.

'Dr. Phosphine' And The Possibility Of Life On Venus – Wired

Chemistry is a funny thing, and so is the search for extraterrestrial life. They are, in fact, two great things that go great together. The likeliest scenario for the detection of life on other worlds is the detection of chemical biosignatures – the presence of chemicals, or fluctuations in levels of chemicals, or both, which have no explanation other than the metabolic processes of alien life. The problem is that various chemicals can be produced by a range of processes, some of which are metabolic pathways in living organisms, but some of which are not, and telling which is which is far from easy (Mars, for instance, has seasonal fluctuations in the amount of methane in its atmosphere, but there's no certain proof whatsoever, at this point, that microbial life is the reason). Recently, however, researchers have found evidence of a chemical compound called phosphine in the atmosphere of Venus. Venus is one of the most inhospitable of planets – surface temperature hot enough to melt lead; surface atmospheric pressure 90 times that on earth's surface, and it rains sulphuric acid (the Venusian atmosphere is almost pure carbon dioxide, and its greenhouse effects have turned Venus into the hell-world it is today). But things are more moderate in the upper levels of the clouds which permanently shroud the Venusian atmosphere, and it's possible – just possible – that there, life has found a foothold, with phosphine as its signature. Phosphine is produced almost exclusively on Earth by anaerobic microbes. If there is life floating above the bleak surface of Venus, definite proof is years away, but the presence of phosphine may be a first glimpse of its existence.

– Jack Forster, Editor-in-Chief

A Debutante Delayed: Little Edie Beale's Life After Grey Gardens – Town & Country

One of the foremost documentaries in the cinéma vérité style is Grey Gardens, a deeply personal look into the lives of the wildly eccentric Big Edie and Little Edie Beale, in their East Hampton home. The story goes that the mother and daughter were living in squalor in what was – at one time – a venerable estate in the wealthy town. They were related to Jacqueline Kennedy, who helped to renovate (more restore) their home and get the two women back on their feet. Famed documentarians Albert and David Maysles got wind of their story and approached the Beales about documenting their lives. The result is one of the more astounding pieces of documentary cinema there is. The film was released in 1975, and I couldn't recommend it more. This article from Town & Country, however, details Little Edie Beale and her post-Grey Gardens life after her mother passed away. This is something of a deep cut, but if you're into the film, I think you'll enjoy it. 

– Danny Milton, Editor

Enjoying The Forbidden Fruit Of An Electric Bike – Adventure Journal

There's plenty of crossover in the cycling community and the watch world, so I'm sure many readers have been forced to think through electric bicycles in much the same way we've had to come to our own conclusions on quartz watches and smartwatches. It's hard being a purist when confronted with the obvious advantages of modern technology, but in this essay in Adventure Journal, one rider does some soul searching and gets one step closer to reckoning with this ever-present internal conflict.

– Cole Pennington, Editor

The Growing Allure Of "Made In Portugal" – Heddels

I can't say for sure when I first realized that more and more of my clothes read "Made In Portugal." It was at least a few years ago, and I guess it was something I just accepted as a fact without question. It wasn't until this week, however, when I noticed this article by Albert Muzquiz in Heddels – a menswear news site – that I started to think about what that exactly meant. Muzquiz does an excellent job of discussing the socioeconomic and cultural factors that influence Portugal's status as a capital of garment making in 21st-century Europe, while also providing relevant comparisons to U.S. manufacturing. We often talk about the importance of where things are made at HODINKEE, and this piece does an excellent job of bringing in a new perspective.

– Logan Baker, Editor, HODINKEE Shop

Enya Is Everywhere – Pitchfork

Whether you know it or not, you've heard quite a lot of music inspired by Enya. The ethereal Irish songwriter rose to prominence in the 1980s and became – rather immediately – a punch line. Nowadays, however, music lovers don't discover songs and albums by browsing CD racks with stiflingly narrow genre labels like "New Age" affixed to them. Instead, algorithmically generated playlists surface songs new and old, largely based not on the genres a listener might claim to like, but the textures and structures they actually like. In this brave new world, some of the most innovative songwriters and producers not only are able to discover the world of Enya, but they're also able to draw inspiration from it. In this hefty piece from Pitchfork, writer Jenn Pelly investigates why Enya was initially written off as airy fluff and how her unique point of view has come to influence much of modern music as we know it.

– Dakota Gardner, Web Editor

Lead image by Iman Gozal

A few weeks back, we brought you an engrossing look at several iterations of the rattrapante, aka. the split-seconds chronograph, and today, we follow that with a technical look at a special offshoot within the world of the rattrapante, the IWC 79230. 

Based upon the architecture of the ETA 7750, the 79230 was designed by the incredibly talented Richard Habring (now of Habring²) as a way to create a robust split-seconds chronograph that could make the most of the 7750 platform. Originally written more than two years ago, if you happen to have missed Jack's Technical Perspective on this very cool evolution of the rattrapante form and its home in a very cool IWC chronograph – hit the link below. 

Click here to read: "Technical Perspective The Split–Seconds Caliber 79230 And The Original IWC Doppelchronograph Pilot's Watch". 

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review, and tell us which guests we should have on!

There are certain people you just click with, and Pedro Mendes is one of those people for me. We were introduced by a mutual friend – legendary menswear writer G. Bruce Boyer – but sitting down to record this episode of HODINKEE Radio is the first time we'd had a real in-depth conversation together. Pedro is a multi-faceted guy, with titles like author, podcast producer, journalist, menswear expert, and more to his resume, and our chat covers a variety of topics, as you'd expect. And the number of times I found myself saying, "Totally, I agree 100%!" in the back of my head bordered on being disconcerting. Is Pedro a mind-reader too?

We start off talking about clothing, how we both became obsessed with getting dressed, and a few of the sartorial missteps we've made along the way (Pro tip: Don't always buy "the most exciting" thing. You'll almost certainly regret it.). From there, we get into watches and how Pedro's initial encounter with a beautiful Seiko lead him down the path to becoming a full-blown watch nerd with a great affection for the Japanese giant. There are plenty of personal anecdotes along the way, and it's clear that Pedro is someone who spends a lot of time thinking seriously about non-serious things. I'm always a fan of that.

But there's more. One thing I didn't want to miss is that today, the same day this episode goes live, is the launch day for the second season of Teamistry, a podcast that Pedro produces for the productivity software company Atlassian (shout-out to my Trello peeps out there – and, no, this isn't sponsored, I'm just a nerd). The first episode of season two is all about Seiko and the internal competition created between the Suwa and Daini manufactures during the 1960s and '70s. I thought I knew that story forward and backward, but it turns out I had a lot to learn. Definitely check out the episode when you're done listening to HODINKEE Radio – I think it's a must-listen for any watch lover.

We hope you enjoy Episode 105 of HODINKEE Radio. Check out the show notes below, and let us know what you think in the comments.

Wrist Check

The Seiko SPB143 is the latest addition to Pedro's collection, but it's quickly become his go-to. In fact, he says that other watches have to "borrow time" if they want to get any wear these days. It's easy to see why: The watch is super stylish, has great proportions, and offers up that perfect mix of wearability and feeling a bit special. Pedro is a longtime lover of Seiko and Grand Seiko, so he knew as soon as this watch was released that it had to make its way into his collection. The only question was which colorway to choose, but you'll have to listen to the episode to hear why he settled on this one. (PS – For more, check out James's full review of the watch here.)

Show Notes

(3:00) Pedro Mendes On Instagram

(3:49) G. Bruce Boyer

(5:45) Bruce Boyer on Put This On

(10:00) Stephen's Rolex GMT

(16:30) Pedro's Seiko SPB143

(22:30) Ten Garments Every Man Should Own: A Practical Guide to Building a Permanent Wardrobe

(26:30) Zenith Watches

(42:00) Seiko TicTac SZSB006

(45:45) HODINKEE Radio Episode 95: The Call-In Show, Volume 1

(50:21) Science Ninja Team Gatchaman

(51:25) Teamistry

(55:00) Seiko Marvel

(55:15) Teamistry, Season 2

(59:30) Pedro's Seiko Lordmatic

(59:35) Pedro's King Seiko

(59:40) Pedro's Seiko Bell-Matic

(1:05:23) Unbuttoned – G. Bruce Boyer's Life In Clothes

Quick Take

G-Shock nerds, heads up! Casio has teamed up with Bamford London to create their take on the classic G-Shock. Formed around the square footprint of the much-loved 5610, this is a new limited-production model marked by aqua blue accents over a black resin base and a black negative LCD screen. This light blue treatment has become one of Bamford's aesthetic calling cards and has been seen on past brand collaborations with TAG Heuer, Zenith, and even Bulgari. 

Initial Thoughts

Based on one of Casio's most core models, the news here is that this G-Shock offers you the Bamford vibe for considerably less coin than past Bamford edition watches – and, it introduces Bamford to the wider enthusiast-driven world of G-Shock collecting (a win/win, to my eyes). While I am in no way a G-Shock collector, these sorts of colorful collaborations are a huge piece of the G-Shock world, and I think this specific example offers something of a light touch that works well for both brands. 

Being a 5610, the Bamford London x G-Shock 5610 Limited Edition has atomic radio sync timekeeping, a suite of quartz-powered functions (chronograph, timer, alarm, world time), solar power, and its resin case is both shock-resistant and water-resistant to 200 meters. 

Available through Bamford London, G-Shock, Beaverbrooks, and Dover Street Market, the Bamford London x G-Shock 5610 Limited Edition carries a retail price of €149 (~$177 at time of publishing). And while the model is listed as a limited edition, production numbers are not stated by either Bamford or G-Shock. All told, I think the aqua blue coloring works well with the ethos of a classic G-Shock shape like that of the 5610, and it's certainly hard to argue with the price (the standard price of a base 5610 is $140). If you've been waiting for a Bamford that hits the wallet in a considerably lighter fashion, this latest collaboration is an accessible and fun option for just about any wrist. 

The Basics

Brand: Bamford London x G-Shock
Model: GW-5610

Diameter: 46.7mm
Thickness: 12.7mm
Case Material: Resin
Dial Color: Black negative LCD screen, blue accents
Lume: Electric backlight
Water Resistance: 200 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black/blue resin 

The Movement

Caliber: Casio 3159 quartz
Functions: Atomic radio sync timekeeping, time, chronograph, alarm, world time, full calendar, backlight, and solar charging. 

Pricing & Availability

Price: €149
Availability: Immediately via Bamford London, G-Shock, Beaverbrooks, and Dover Street Market
Limited Edition: Yes, but total production numbers are not stated by Bamford or G-Shock. 

For more, click here.

There have been few films, in recent memory, shrouded in as much secrecy as Tenet. Even though the film is now officially released in theaters worldwide, I still have not seen it. Theaters are not yet open in New York City, and I am also not sure I am ready for them even if they were. But, as a massive movie lover, I had Tenet pinned on my calendar since I first saw the trailer. Christopher Nolan is maybe the only director today who can command an audience on his name alone – sort of a modern-day Hitchcock, Kubrick, or Spielberg in that regard. 

It was Christopher Nolan's Interstellar that brought the Murph watch into existence. You may remember my conversation with prop-master Ritchie Kremer, who worked on that film. We got to talking about how the Murph watch was made, as well as what goes into making and using prop-watches in Hollywood productions. This time, I was able to go hands-on with two film-used prop watches from Tenet, and I had the chance to speak to the film's production designer, Nathan Crowley (also the PD on Interstellar, Dunkirk, and First Man) about how the watches work and how they came to be. Given that I talked with him prior to the film being released, he was under a strict NDA – so no spoilers here.

At the time I received these watches, the movie still hadn't been released, and the cloud of intrigue and intense secrecy hung heavily over anything having to do with the film. When I went to the door of my apartment building to take delivery of the watches, I was greeted by two men in uniform and an armored car. One man, aviator glasses and all, simply looked at me and said "ID please." I presented my ID, signed the paperwork, and was handed a massive blue bag which was fastened shut via a zip tie. The whole experience was fitting, albeit unexpected.

After unboxing the watches, the first thing I noticed was the weight. Now, earlier this year, Hamilton released two special edition BeLOWZERO watches inspired by watches featured in Tenet, made of PVD coated titanium. Well, that is not the case – quite literally – here. Given that the BeLOWZERO was an existing model in Hamilton's lineup (and used previously in the Ridley Scott film, The Martian), it was that catalog model, in PVD-coated stainless steel, which served as the basis for the Tenet prop watch.  

It is important to keep in mind that these are prop watches. A prop watch is exactly what it sounds like: a prop used in a film or television production. In the case of watches, that can result in the use of what are called "dummies," or watches that don't function as time-telling devices, i.e. there is no movement inside. In the case of Tenet, these two watches are what I might call partial dummies in that they function in their own unique way – but they still don't tell time. 

The watches were conceived early in pre-production of the film. It became clear that a watch was going to need to be created specifically for the film based on the script and plot. Hamilton was only given enough information to be able to create what Crowley and Nolan needed. The "what" was known, but the "why" would never be disclosed. Crowley and Nolan landed on the BeLOWZERO as the template for their modifications due to its somewhat military look. The idea was to have a large digital display on the dial – in two color variants, red and blue, with a countdown/up feature. Considering the immense secrecy around the creation of the watch, Crowley noted that it may have seemed "weird to [Hamilton] because they don't know why we want this or why we are asking them to give us a watch that counts down from ten past to zero and back, in each color."

At one point in the prototyping phase, it became clear that it would be impossible to make articulating hands and a digital display together. It was then proposed to just do a digital readout, with no analog handset – but that wouldn't do. The plan all along, from Crowley and Nolan, was to have both the hands and the digital readout. A workaround needed to be devised. The end result was a masterclass in practical filmmaking. A large quantity of individual watches was ordered, each displaying the hands in a fixed position of time. In all, there were about 40 or so watches in each color, with a different orientation of the hands to correspond with the digital readout. You might be wondering why they went through all of this trouble, what with the advent of modern technology and all. As Crowley put it, "We don't do things digitally, and we were not going to do a CG version of the watch face. We wanted to do everything in-camera." 

The end design of the Tenet watch is exactly what we have here: A two-hand dive-style, ana-digi watch, with a digital readout that lights up in red or blue. As was alluded to earlier, the watches don't work – well, at least the hands don't, and while it looks like an ana-digi watch (think Breitling Aerospace, Omega X-33, G-Shock, etc.), it does not function like one. As mentioned, there is no movement – mechanical or otherwise – inside. In this case, it is because the mechanism would have gone straight through the digital plate – destroying it. In reality, the watch was conceived and developed in about four to six months, which was not enough time to create a working model, given the fact that they integrated the digital display into an existing Hamilton watch that did not previously have one. 

Apparently, the blue and the red digital displays light up differently, depending on lighting conditions, with blue performing better in daylight, and red performing better in the shade. It also took significantly more power to light up the red display, and that is why you will notice an external battery pack attached to the red model, with wiring going in through the caseback. The blue version has the batteries hidden inside the watch.  In addition to the 80-plus watches required, there were also backups in the event something went wrong. Similar to the Murph watch, the Tenet watches required a technician to handle the operation of the watches for filming, such as setting up the digital timing function and ensuring that the correct handset was chosen to correspond with it when the cameras rolled. As Crowley put it, "The watch cannot slow down the shoot." As far as I can tell, they never did. 

The case is made of stainless steel with a black PVD coating, and the dial is a matte black with dark grey Arabic numerals, almost in a lacquered texture. The hands are in a broad arrow style, in two shades of grey with the inner portion having a sandblasted effect. Unlike Hamilton's Tenet Special Edition BeLOWZERO models, you will not find a seconds hand here at all. That is because of the digital countdown timer, a function exclusive to the prop watch, and one you will not find on the Special Edition models, or for sale anywhere for that matter.

Looking at the dial from different angles, you start to see the cracks and imperfections of the prop watch. There appear to be two pieces to the dial, with the minute track separate from the central dial portion. This is because the central part of the dial - containing the Arabic numerals – houses the countdown display. You can actually see blue or red light peeking out from the area between these two pieces of the dial. If you look at the image above, you will also see some traces of the blue light material bleeding through under the number zero.

As referenced, the red variant is the watch that needed the extra power supply via the external battery pack. Given that the battery back was both external, and tethered to the watch via electronic wiring, it made it a bit difficult to wear on the wrist. The battery pack is your standard fare black rectangular piece of plastic. It has an on-off switch which allows you to power on the countdown function on the red version. The wiring flows from the external pack into the watch through the engraving on the caseback into a small hole. This probably renders the water resistance null, but that doesn't matter with a watch like this. When you power on the battery pack, the screen fades in to the 00:00 readout.

The blue variant has no external parts, but again, is still heavy. Considering it is a 46mm hunk of stainless steel filled to the brim with batteries, that makes sense. I was able to put this variant on to see how it fit, wire-sfree. As one who is known to downplay the size of a watch and declare it smaller than you might think, that was not the feeling here. These watches are very large. The size does give more surface area for the countdown timer which, as a result, is extremely legible. Not knowing the digital readout's function or purpose in the film bugs me (mostly because I want to see the movie), but I appreciate the functionality as a novelty all the same. Those who have seen the film will surely have a better understanding. 

The strap was very comfortable. For a watch with such heft, the rubber strap was able to secure it to my wrist in such a way as to negate the weight. I appreciated the double stamped pin holes – and frankly, I think it was necessary. Another welcome sight was that the end of the strap did not stick out beyond the watch when on wrist, even though I had it in the last possible position. 

Both watches sport the same engraved caseback design, as well as the oversized crown with the engraved "H." Overall, the watches felt substantial and well made. I know they are not actual military watches in any way, but they do give off that affectation. Wearing these was like wearing an over-engineered G-Shock. Putting the watch on made me feel like I was ready to embark on some form of espionage or covert mission. If only I could figure out how to work the only functional aspect of the watch ... the countdown timer. 

In terms of functionality, the red model is meant to count up and the blue meant to count down. I will admit, I had some difficulty operating this aspect of the watch, even with the aid of the film's own production designer walking me through it. The digital display is activated via the crown. There is a click system implemented into it, and depending on how many clicks you give it, a different result is meant to occur. I clicked in a variety of ways, and no matter how I clicked, I was only ever able generate a countdown timer. One click starts the counter, and another lights up the display. Without the backlight, the blue model presents as more of a turquoise blue, but when lit up, it is a deeper, stronger  blue. The red is more standard in appearance. If you have ever seen a red digital display (think digital alarm clocks), you get the idea. The main difference is that when the blue is lit up, it lights the entire dial surface, whereas the red lights up just the numerals. 

On the production, given the differences in the display between the red and blue digital readout, the crew had to bolster both watches' displays so the cameras could capture them properly. Again, I don't know what role these countdown/up timers play in the film. Due to the NDA, Crowley could effectively tell me nothing about the film. All I was able to obtain was that the display is an "essential element." Take that however you'd like. 

Overall, these watches were everything I expected them to be: Non-working props, with imperfections that a real watch would (hopefully) never have, but which endear them more to their intended use. I do plan on eventually seeing this film, and will keep my eyes glued to the screen to spot these watches now that I have seen them up close. I find the whole behind-the-scenes world of film fascinating. To that end, these watches – and the stories behind them – did not disappoint. 

Editor's Note: Of course, we all live in different areas, with different rules and regulations for returning to the cinema. If you live somewhere where theaters are back open, and you have seen the film, try to be respectful of those who have not. Let's refrain from putting spoilers in the comments below.  

Photos, Kasia Milton

Quick Take

When Hublot put a rubber strap on a gold watch 40 years ago, it was quite an unconventional approach to watchmaking at the time. It was an Italian gentleman, Carlo Crocco, who created the watch by combining design flair from Italy with Swiss craftsmanship and naming it something French, Hublot, meaning "porthole" in English. The watch utilized screws in the case, a design element that's come to define Hublot over the decades. The case shape was inspired by a ship's porthole. The decision to utilize a rubber strap is rooted in the need for versatility and ease of use around water, but, of course, it went against traditional watch design at the time, as rubber straps were usually found on watches at a much lower price point. 

Today, that very first watch from Crocco is living a second life. Hublot has released the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary model in a trio of materials: 18k yellow gold, titanium, and black ceramic. There are 100 examples in yellow gold, 200 in titanium, and 200 in black ceramic. 

But the main difference this time around is what's inside: the Caliber Hublot HUB1112. The HUB1112 is based in the SW300-1 and is finished by Hublot. The first Hublot, the Classic Original, used a quartz movement. 

Initial Thoughts

The Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary celebrates Hublot's origins. 

The brand's 1980 release, the Classic Original, was a hit. It was a dress watch that broke all the norms and even became popular with a cast of royal characters. The story goes that the Prince of Monaco, along with the kings of Greece, Spain, and Sweden all wore Hublot watches. Carlo Crocco had invented a winning formula with the Classic Original. 

The Classic Original was released to much fanfare, but sales cooled off during the following decades. Crocco wanted to refocus his efforts on his philanthropy work, but wasn't interested in selling off Hublot completely, so he looked for the right steward for the brand. It was in 2004 that Jean-Claude Biver got involved with Hublot. Crocco had known Biver prior to his joining Hublot, when he struck a deal with Biver to distribute Blancpain watches in Italy and Spain. Biver was running Blancpain at the time, and had managed to turn both Blancpain and Omega into commercial successes during his career prior to Hublot. And Hublot wasn't any different. 

In 2004, Biver joined Hublot and established "The Art of Fusion" as the company tagline. Material science is an area that Hublot has become known to excel at. The brand has worked with Lausanne Federal Institute of Technology to produce proprietary case materials, like Magic Gold. Standard gold watches are typically easier to scratch. Gold sits at a 2.5-3 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness, whereas a material like titanium is rated at 6 and hardened steel at 7-8. What Hublot did with Magic Gold was bring the hardness level up to withstand the rigors of daily wear. Coming up with advanced materials was at the core of Biver's Art of Fusion ideology. 

When Biver joined the company, he brought on Ricardo Guadalupe as the general manager. In 2008, Crocco sold Hublot to the LVMH Group. In 2012, Biver moved to the role of Hublot chairman and relinquished the CEO title to Guadalupe. He's been the CEO since, carrying out the original vision conceived in 2004. 

I first met Guadalupe in Miami, the perfect place to understand why the nouveau riche gravitate towards Hublot. It was in the midst of Art Basel, and Hublot was throwing a massive party at a club that could have certainly appeared in the TV series Miami Vice. The party was replete with endless champagne, sparklers, dancers, European house music, and a cast of Hublot's ambassadors, including F1 drivers and fashion stars. In other words, it was peak Hublot. 

It wasn't my usual scene, but it was an absolute blast. For a night, I was living the aspirational lifestyle that Hublot owners' dreams are made of, and it couldn't have been more enjoyable. There's often an element of pageantry and seriousness surrounding brand-sponsored events in the world of horology that can be a major turn-off. What I found is that when Hublot is throwing the party, there's none of that. Enthusiasts of the high houses of horology can be far more judgmental towards Hublot and its fans than Hublot owners are of anyone else in the watch collecting world. 

Hublot doesn't try to be everything to everyone. It has a loyal following, and it caters specifically to that following with a series of partnerships that consistently appeal to different segments inside the fan base. There's something I respect about a watch brand that's supremely comfortable in its own skin. Following the party, I chatted with Guadalupe about the brand's image, and after the conversation, I walked away with a deep sense of reverence for Biver and Guadalupe's accomplishments in terms of marketing and branding. They both had laid out a framework for the brand's future in 2004, and 16 years later, Guadalupe is still at it. Guadalupe's tenure spans almost half of the time the brand has been in existence, but it's the action-packed half. 

Through email, I asked him how the brand has changed over the course of his time there. He responded, "Since we (Mr. Biver and myself) joined the company in 2004, we have created the necessary platform and infrastructure here in Nyon. We built our first building in 2009. The second one followed in 2016, and we have been increasing our production capacity throughout the years, not only in terms of machines, but also people. In 2004, there were 30 people at Hublot. Today, we are 450, and we have already been thinking about adding a third building within the next two to five years."

The numbers tell a story of growth, but has the customer changed at all since the early days of Hublot? Guadalupe points out that the buyer has remained mostly the same: someone who isn't drawn to conventional watchmaking. "Since 1980, Hublot buyers are people who like to explore new territories and want to set themselves apart. Today, our customer base includes people from all walks of life, as well as the young at heart of all ages. Our customers are daring, they like to explore unknown territory and to wear a contemporary watch on their wrist that stands out from what they have already seen. I believe we offer them the most exciting opportunity to discover fine watchmaking, through the product as well as our different partnerships."

And with the release of Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary model, a modern re-interpretation of a classic, buyers now have the chance to discover what it was like buying a Hublot in 1980. 

The Basics

Brand: Hublot
Model: Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary
Reference Number: 11.VX.1280.RX.MDM40 (gold); 511.NX.1270.RX.MDM4 (titanium); 11.CX.1270.RX.MDM40 (black ceramic)

Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 10.95mm
Case Material:  Yellow gold, titanium, black ceramic
Dial Color: Polished black lacquer with gold appliques on the yellow-gold model, and rhodium appliques on the titanium and black ceramic model
Indexes: None
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber strap

The Movement

Caliber: Caliber Hublot HUB111
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Diameter: 25.6mm
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 21

Pricing & Availability

Price: 11.VX.1280.RX.MDM40 (gold) $25,200; 511.NX.1270.RX.MDM4 (titanium) $8,300; 11.CX.1270.RX.MDM40 (black ceramic) $10,400
Availability: Authorized Hublot dealers
Limited Edition: Yes, 100 examples in yellow gold, 200 in titanium, and 200 in black ceramic

For more, click here.

G-SHOCK is best known for its practical and utilitarian timekeepers that are built to be used, no matter the circumstance. But in recent years, the Japanese brand has extended its function-first identity to be more inclusive, with greater emphasis placed on unique designs and exciting collaborations. While G-SHOCK previously matched the straightforward sensibilities of its durable digital timekeepers with muted tones, the company now makes deliberate use of color in impactful ways. You can now find a variety of dynamic color options throughout G-SHOCK's expansive product portfolio.  

G-SHOCK may have outdone itself, however, with the recent release of its "Volcanic Lightning" Limited Edition inside the premium MT-G family. Inspired by a rare atmospheric phenomenon that can occur when a volcano erupts, the MTG-B1000VL is one of G-SHOCK's most expressive and visually striking watches ever, and it's now available in the HODINKEE Shop. 

The G-SHOCK MTG-B1000VL 'Volcanic Lightning' Limited Edition

While more and more brands hop on the blue-dial and green-dial bandwagon, a third color trend has quietly emerged and made its way across the watch industry. We are now seeing more watches than ever designed with a rainbow theme in mind. From colors introduced through world-class gem-setting techniques to revivals of popular 1960s models, watch design has never embraced the entire chromatic spectrum so comprehensively.

The MTG-B1000VL "Volcanic Lightning" Limited Edition isn't G-SHOCK's first foray into the rainbow landscape. We saw the brand experiment with multi-color design just last year, with the limited edition MT-G "Lunar Rainbow" that quickly sold out. The new MTG-B1000VL pushes the brand further, with an even bolder visual identity that utilizes an iridescent blue, purple, and gold ion-plating (IP) treatment on the watch's bezel. G-SHOCK states that it drew inspiration for the watch's appearance from volcanic lightning, an unexpected source compared to your traditional post-precipitation rainbow. (Alternatively, the gradient rainbow effect also reminds us of the burnt titanium exhaust tips found on certain Japanese domestic market-exclusive vehicles in the 1990s.)

Volcanic lightning occurs only after a volcano has erupted, when densely-packed particles in the ash-filled plume become electrically charged, forming bolts of lightning that strike into the erupting volcano below. G-SHOCK translated this dynamic atmospheric event to the MTG-B1000VL, with an eye on the unique colors that can become visible during an eruption. The dial is black, matching the color of the volcanic plume; the semi-translucent soft urethane strap is red, recalling the pulsating magma inside a volcano; and the multiple saturated hues found on the bezel are the result of a polychromatic IP coating that makes each MTG-B1000VL unique. Additionally, the screws on the bezel and the strap buckle and keeper feature a red-gold IP finish, while the inset dial ring has undergone a vapor deposition process that results in a unique blue-to-violet gradation. All of these color treatments are performed individually as each MTG-B1000VL is constructed, resulting in a group of G-SHOCKs with a distinctive and exclusive appeal.

G-SHOCK has also utilized its proprietary Carbon Core Guard structure on the MTG-B1000VL, which adds a new material to the brand's standard resin and metal composition. The bezel, caseback, and lugs of the MTG-B1000VL are all made of steel, with an interior resin pocket that protects the movement module from damage. G-SHOCK has reinforced the resin interior with a layer of carbon fiber, adding significantly to the watch's impact resistance. Although the MTG-B1000VL might look like a whole new type of G-SHOCK – with its rainbow design and analog display – it's still a G-SHOCK at the end of the day, which means durability will always remain a priority.

While the color and finish of the case and bezel are brand new and represent a first for G-SHOCK, the watch operates similarly to previous releases in the MTG-B1000 series. The dial's crosshatch-like finish is complex at first glance, but the information is arranged in a straightforward way that allows time to be read without issue. The bezel's flange features the UTC codes of the cities that represent the world's major time zones. The multi-function sub-dial at nine o'clock combines the day-of-the-week with a power-reserve and daylight saving time display as well as the mode indicator for the stopwatch (ST), countdown timer (TR), and alarm functions (AL). The six o'clock sub-dial shows the dual time-zone alongside a small, overlapping A.M./P.M. indicator to its right. A 24-hour display that occupies the 12 o'clock position is connected to the time on the central handset. Finally, a date aperture is located near four o'clock. 

As part of G-SHOCK's high-end MT-G collection, the MTG-B1000VL also features all of the brand's latest technical attributes, including Bluetooth connectivity to the G-SHOCK Connected smartphone app (available for iOS and Android), Tough Solar charging, and Multi-Band 6 atomic timekeeping. The light-powered movement module inside utilizes a five-motor drive that includes a dual-coil motor to drive each hand and handset independently.

The G-SHOCK MTG-B1000VL "Volcanic Lightning" is another exciting entry into the highly collectible world of G-SHOCK. While this new release is not a numbered edition, quantities are limited, and we expect our allocation to move quickly. You can learn more and purchase your G-SHOCK MTG-B1000VL for $1,100, right now in the HODINKEE Shop.

There will be a watch among the lots at the upcoming Sotheby's online auction titled "Dear Keith: Works from the Personal Collection of Keith Haring." And it's not the Keith Haring watch from Swatch or the G-SHOCK x Keith Haring DW5600. Instead, it's a Gumby watch with a personal story behind it. It's even signed by Andy Warhol. While the watch is part of the auction, this is the first public mention that the watch will be coming up for sale. Bidding will open on September 24 and run until October 1. The auction can viewed online here. 

In the early 1980s, American artists Andy Warhol and Keith Haring had become close friends. Both artists became known for their contributions to American pop art. Warhol explored the idiosyncrasies of advertising and the cult of celebrity, and Haring's graffiti-esque work, born from the streets of New York City, played a part in raising awareness around AIDS, the condition which Haring eventually succumbed to. 

In an issue of Rolling Stone from August of '89, Haring recalled the early days of their friendship: "I met [Warhol] finally through [photographer] Christopher Makos, who brought me to the Factory. At first, Andy was very distant. It was difficult for him to be comfortable with people if he didn’t know them. Then he came to another exhibition at the Fun Gallery, which was soon after the show at Shafrazi. He was more friendly. We started talking, going out. We traded a lot of works at that time."

They also exchanged gifts, and this Gumby watch was one of them. Harrison Tenzer, Head of Sotheby's Contemporary Art Online Sales in New York, dates the gifting to the mid-to-late '80s, saying, "We know that this would have been gifted between 1985 when the watches were brought to market by the Prema Toy Company, and Warhol's death in February, 1987." 

Warhol signed the watch before gifting it, and Haring framed it. Warhol was a watch collector himself, owning a number of Pateks as well as watches decorated with cartoon characters. For a man like Warhol, a watch is more than just a watch, and Tenzer has an idea about what it meant to Warhol and Haring: "Both Warhol and Haring were intrigued by the symbolic power that cartoon figures such as Mickey Mouse possessed in the American Psyche – Haring created a figure called 'Andy Mouse' that depicts Andy Warhol as Mickey, and Warhol created a series depicting children's toys in 1983. While not as symbolically potent as Mickey Mouse, Gumby had been an influential TV and toy presence since the late 1950s and would have intrigued both artists. It is telling that Haring framed the watch, enshrining it as a work of fine art that hung in his home."

And shortly, this Gumby watch that's come to symbolize an important friendship may hang in a lucky collector's home – be it of art or watches. 

The watch carries an estimate of $800-$1,200 and will be live on the lot preview page, which can be viewed here, soon. 

On Saturday afternoon, an ominous message was displayed on the Metronome clock in Manhattan's Union Square. It read "The Earth has a deadline." And then the clock's digital display started counting down from 7:103:15:40:07. 

For years, rumors have circulated about what the clock actually measures, because for a long time, it didn't display the time in a traditional format. This piece in the New York Times notes that, "Its digital display once told the time in its own unique way, counting the hours, minutes and seconds (and fractions thereof) to and from midnight. But for years observers who did not understand how it worked suggested that it was measuring the acres of rainforest destroyed each year, tracking the world population or even that it had something to do with pi."

But this time, the message is meant to be clear. It's counting down to a deadline when the effects of climate change become "irreversible." Artists Gan Golan and Andrew Boyd have calculated the deadline based on figures from the Mercator Research Institute on Global Commons and Climate Change. The two artists call their project "The Climate Clock," and unfortunately (or fortunately), the clock will never reach zero – the project will only be displayed until September 27. 

The countdown specifically tracks how much time it will take, according to research estimates, to reach a critical number, which is a temperature increase globally of 1.5ºC over pre-industrial levels. The Times says that number was chosen by the artists based on a 2018 report from the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. "The report," says the Times, "issued in 2018, said global warming was likely to reach 1.5°C over preindustrial levels between 2030 and 2052 if it continues at the current rate. That level of warming is projected to increase damage to many ecosystems and cause an estimated $54 trillion in damage, the report said."

Metronome, as the clock is known, was installed in 1999 and created by Kristin Jones and Andrew Ginzel. It's just as much a complicated clock as it is a public artwork. In 2017, Jack even identified a moon-phase complication that seems to fly under the radar. You can read all about it here, and again, you can read the New York Times highlighting the climate change countdown here. 

If you're in New York, check it out in person, because if Gan Golan and Andrew Boyd are correct, in a little less than 7:103:15:40:07 (that's years, days, hours, minutes, and seconds) the Earth's climate may reach a critical tipping point. To find out more about the climate clock, and similar projects around the world, visit climateclock.org.

I have said it before, and I will say it again: This is the year of the dial swap, with many brands taking existing models from years past and updating them with new dials. With Baltic, however, the brand has released a new set of dial variants for two watches that were introduced just this year. That might be a new record for the dial swap – only, it makes sense because the original models were the small-production HMS and Bicompax Salmon Dial Limited Editions in partnership with Worn & Wound, released in March. 

On Friday, Baltic (re)released the HMS and Bicompax "002," which is essentially a regular production collection of the limited edition design – only now in a variety of dial colors. In all, there are three dial options to choose from – blue with gilt accents, silver with black or blue accents, and black with white accents – for both models, as well as a host of strap options to choose from. Baltic hangs its hat on the moniker "vintage-inspired," and these dials certainly fit the bill in that regard. 

While the salmon dials are no more (there were only 100 available in each model), these watches are just as interesting and offer more variety. The new dial variants maintain the sector-dial aesthetic, including the mixture of both texture and material, which were key elements of the limited edition models. Making up this two-watch collection are the HMS (time only), and the Bicompax (chronograph) – each featuring the same overall dial design. Both the HMS and Bicompax remain at the vintage-evocative 38mm sizing, which is extremely wearable, especially so with the Bicompax.

First, let's look at some of the dial features which have been carried over into the regular production 002. The sector dial is probably the most pronounced aesthetic design choice on the watch. The concentric circles which separate each sector of the dial are separated not just by circular borders, but also by a mixture of texture and color. The central, and innermost, dial portion has an almost sandblasted texture, whereas the portion containing the Arabic numerals boasts more of a sunray metallic finish. As you travel to the outer section and minute track, you again find the textured finish. Depending on the light, this affords a host of interesting viewing angles. On a lot of sector dial watches, you might find color differentiation between each sector (or, at the least, different shades of a single color), but here, the effect is rendered through texture alone. Each section remains the same color, and same shade, within each dial variant, but utilizes a different material to generate the effect.

Along with the sector motif,  both models feature crosshairs at the center of the dial. This is far more pronounced on the HMS than it is on the Bicompax, where the chronograph hand obscures the vertically oriented line of the crosshairs. To that end, the Bicompax offers crosshairs in the small seconds subsidiary dial (overall, there are two subsidiary dials, hence the naming convention Bicompax). This feature makes the Bicompax a sector dial, double crosshairs, which may sound like a passing route in American football, but it nevertheless looks interesting on this watch and is a feature not present on the LE version. 

It was nice to see the Arabic numeral design maintained here. I mentioned this part of the watch in my write up for the salmon dial limited edition, and I still consider this to be my favorite part of both of these models and an improvement over the Baltic 001 line. The typeface used here appears as both wholly original and vintage leaning. I especially like the flipped orientation of three and nine.

Even though these design elements are not new per se, it was nice to be able to see them up close and personal, as well as experience them on wrist. But, at the end of the day, it is the new dial colors which are the main attraction on these watches.

First, is the blue dial. I experienced this one on the HMS model, although it is also featured on the Bicompax. This is a rich blue – something of a navy, but a lot darker. The mixture of the blue dial paired with the warm gilt effect of the numerals, logo, and basically all other markings on the dial, gives this watch a very specific feel. Gilt dials are certainly reminiscent of vintage watches, but blue dials, however, are not. Mixing these two elements made this watch feel, at once, both old and new. The gold color of the hands was a nice way to tie the whole effect together. In direct sunlight, the textured portions of the dial capture light in a really unique way, which allows you to see the most granular aspects of that texture. 

The black dial was the pseudo-sleeper of the bunch. I experienced it on the green strap, and while I am not usually one for strap colors of that sort, I found this to be a very interesting combination. Many people will say black dial watches are boring, but boring can also be another word for lasting. There is a reason so many iconic watches that we know and love sport black dials with white accents. I am not calling this watch an iconic design, but I will say that, next to the more colorful and lighter dial options, the black still managed to stick out from the bunch – especially on the green strap. 

Lastly, is the silver dial variant. To me, this color is the most closely related, ideologically, to the salmon dial LEs. Somehow, the silver coloring in the sector dial layout gives off a similar effect – or evokes the same sort of feelings – as the salmon-colored dial. If I can pinpoint where that is most obvious, it would have to be the section of the dial containing the Arabic numerals. Unlike the black and the blue, the silver variant displays as more metallic in appearance. The contrast between this metallic sheen and the textured inner and outer dial sections is therefore more pronounced. I was able to handle this one in both the HMS and Bicompax configurations, and I am glad that I did. On the Bicompax, the silver dial is paired with black accents, the same as the HMS – except for one key difference: The HMS has a handset that is done in blue. The blue is a nice little add-on for this watch, giving it a punch of color that the Bicompax does not have. 

Just like with the salmon LEs, the movements in these watches remain the same: The Miyota 821A automatic movement for the HMS, and the Seagull ST1901 (tested and regulated by Baltic) manually wound chronograph movement for the Bicompax. Before anyone complains about the movements, understand that they are one of the key contributors to the brand's ability to keep the prices where they are. A lot of what makes these pieces "vintage-inspired" is the aesthetic (i.e. acrylic crystal, leaf hands, and drilled lug holes), which Baltic has decidedly nailed here, and while the movements may not be haute horlogerie, they still allow the watches to do their job. As is standard on all of the models offered by Baltic, these movements are housed behind a closed caseback. On both the HMS and Bicompax, that caseback is engraved Baltic and features the movement name engraved around the outer edges, along with other important bits of information such as the water resistance – which, by the way, is 50m. 

In the year of the dial swap, Baltic has certainly delivered. The HMS and Bicompax 002 regular production line is a colorful addition to the Baltic collection. If you missed out on the 100-piece run of the salmon-dial limited editions, these new watches are a more than serviceable consolation prize. As mentioned, each model comes in three dial colors resulting in six watches in all.  Both models come in dramatically under the $1,000 (or euro) price mark, with the HMS priced at €332.50, and the Bicompax at €540.83, at the time of writing. Baltic may be out of the salmon, but it has certainly made it clear there are other fish in the sea.

The Baltic HMS and Bicompax 002 are 38mm in diameter, 12mm in thickness with a lug width of 20mm. The HMS houses an automatic movement powered by the Miyota 821A. The Bicompax is a manually wound chronograph powered by the Seagull ST1901. Leather straps in a variety of colors, drilled lug holes and acrylic crystal. Three dial color options: blue with gilt accents, black with white accents, and silver with black (and blue in the HMS) accents. All of these pieces are available for purchase on Baltic's website. Price: €332.50 for the HMS and €540.83 for the Bicompax. For more, visit Baltic.com. 

Photos, Kasia Milton

Whenever I start thinking about the relative cleanliness of a given watch, I often think back to May of 2019 when the news cycle briefly focused on whether or not most of us even bother to wash our legs in the shower. If you happen to have missed this low-stakes bit of dirty drama, it's worth a scan back to simpler times when we saw fit to argue about leg cleanliness, and I could cite "Hoda & Jenna" as a news source. 

While most of my posts often hinge upon my attempt at forcing you – my long-suffering audience – into the position of asking "James, what is the point of all of this?!" I need not belabor this specific point. Your watch is dirty. It lives on an interactive and generally uncovered part of your body that also happens to be the fleshy bridge between your elbow and the part of your body that most actively touches the world around you. And, if a non-zero number of you can't be bothered to wash your own legs, then when was the last time you took a moment to consider the state of your watch? That summer rainstorm your Speedy managed to survive doesn't count, and neither does jumping off a dock with your trusty Seiko diver on wrist (bless you nonetheless). Like with cars, clothes, and indeed your own very filthy legs, watches need to be actively cleaned. 

Assuming that will be the bulk of my browbeating about dirty legs, I didn't want to do a how-to that relied solely on my dilettante methods for keeping my watches clean, so I phoned a friend who knows a thing or two about grimy no-good stinky watches (and worse). Jason Gallop is the owner and resident watchmaker with Roldorf & Co, a family-operated watch retail and service outlet based in the downtown area of Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. I used to live in Vancouver and hold Jason and his business in very high regard. Additionally, Jason is a BHI and WOSTEP-trained watchmaker who graduated in the same class as Peter Speake-Marin, Stephen Forsey, and some guy named Kari. Lastly, for those that want more intense examples of dirty watches (and have the stomach for the visual) don't miss the Toxic Tuesday stories that Jason runs on the Roldorf Instagram account – where watches come into their service desk looking like they just finished a Tough Mudder event (see below, sorry). 

The good news is that it's not all that hard to keep your watches clean, and I asked Jason for some simple and actionable tips that you can do from home. Before we get into the nitty and the gritty, please consider the following. First, before you take any steps beyond wiping the tail of your t-shirt over your crystal to get rid of a fingerprint, please know your watch. I know that sounds dumb, but if you want to follow the steps below, you need to understand the condition of your watch in a specific way. While the following is designed to introduce the absolute minimum amount of moisture and abrasion to your watch, it will still be prudent to have some assurances of water resistance and the general condition of the watch and the ways in which it keeps the outside world, well, outside. This is of considerable importance if you would like to clean vintage watches, for which moisture is generally a very bad thing.

With that in mind, there will be no wet rags, no dunking, and certainly no suggestion that you run your watch under the tap to rinse it off. While some watches can indeed be treated in this manner, we're taking a lighter approach. Let's take a look at what you will need.

The Kit

• A watch-specific brush or a soft-bristled toothbrush, preferably one that has been used (thus extra soft) and then carefully cleaned and dried before going anywhere near your watch
• Toothpicks
• A clean microfiber cloth 
• A pack of simple anti-bacterial and eco-friendly sanitary wipes 

If you want to use what the pros use, Jason uses a Cape Cod Detail Brush, peg wood, a Cape Cod microfiber cloth, microfiber detail sticks, and wipes from Medtrica (shown above). With your tools sorted, here are the simple steps. 

Step 1: Inspect The Watch

Cleaning your watch is a great time to get nice and close (preferably with a simple magnifying glass) and take a look at the condition of your watch. Look for damage that may allow for the ingress of moisture. Pay specific attention to the condition of the crown, or other moving parts. Likewise, look at the edge of the crystal (where it is mounted to the case). If your crystal has a chip or even any visible area where it is not firmly connected to the case, your watch needs to be professionally inspected and serviced (and then cleaned). 

Step 2: Remove Your Bracelet Or Strap

Assuming you are comfortable doing so, remove the bracelet or strap from your watch with an appropriate spring bar tool. This will allow you access to one of the dirtiest parts of your watch, the inner side of the lugs and the endlink of the bracelet. While we will talk about cleaning and caring for non-bracelet options in a future post, removing your bracelet will make both the watch and the bracelet much easier to clean. Whatever mount you prefer, take it off and set it to the side for a moment. 

Step 3: Wipe The Watch

Take one of the wipes and carefully wipe every facet, nook, engraving, and edge. A once-over should not take more than a minute or two, and with the watch mostly clean, you will be able to better see the more stubborn collections of dirt. 

Step 4: Toothpick (Or Brush) Time

If you have any sticky grime that didn't come off with the wipe, take a toothpick and cut off the brittle tip. Then, wrap the toothpick in the edge of the wipe and gently work the harder edge into the problem areas (while ensuring the toothpick does not tear through the wipe). If the cleaning has disrupted some horological detritus, gently brush it away with the detailing brush (or your soft-bristle toothbrush). Please keep in mind (again, know your watch) that softer metals may be scratched by something like a toothpick, so it's best to be as thorough as possible with the wipe, especially on precious metal cases. If you aren't sure, please don't suffer a scratch. Just call your AD and have your special watch cleaned professionally. 

Step 5: A Microfiber Finish

Finish the cleaning with a soft and clean microfiber that can quickly absorb any excess moisture (and help with oils from your skin as you're holding the watch). Wrap the cloth around your finger and use your fingernail to ensure the cloth gets into all of those tough-to-reach spots like the bezel edge, the crustal edge, and the inner lugs and caseback seam. 

You now have one hopefully very clean watch. For those who removed their bracelet, the above steps are largely similar for cleaning a bracelet but you can start by bathing the bracelet in warm soapy water, brushing it clean with the toothbrush, and then laying it in the fold of a paper towel and tapping the water (and dirt) free from the bracelet as it sits flat.  

Don't forget to remove your spring bars and pay close attention to the endlinks (especially if they are of the dirt-trap folded variety) and the clasp – with special care for extra bits like wetsuit extensions. If your bracelet is very complicated (especially when it comes to the clasp), be sure that you follow any direction from the manufacturer and/or speak to your AD concerning specific cleaning procedure. Once the bracelet is clean, it can be quickly dried with a microfiber cloth.

And there you have it – fresh, clean, and ready for a non-gross existence on your wrist. Now that you've completed this deep clean, Jason recommends keeping the watch clean by giving it a quick once over with a cleaning wipe every few days. This is especially important given the recent renewed focus on hand-washing and how the act commonly sees water and soap collecting under a watch and causing additional grime to build up over time. Whenever possible, it is best to take your watch off when washing your hands and put it back on a clean (and dry) wrist.

Okay, you're clean. Re-mount your bracelet or strap of choice and wear that sparkling watch wherever your (probably) dirty legs take you. 

Yesterday marked the official start of fall in the Northern Hemisphere, and the weather is finally starting to turn the corner here in New York. While the temperature outside might be slowly dropping, our weekly Wednesday vintage update hasn't changed, and today, we have a great new batch of 10 vintage watches up for grabs. 

It's an eclectic group this week, featuring everything from classics like a Rolex "Red" Submariner to a Patek Philippe Calatrava, as well as a number of funky and fun tool watches from makers like Angelus, Wittnauer, and Fortis. And if you like your vintage chronographs with a touch of asymmetry, we'll let you know up front – keep your eyes peeled for a few excellent takes on the classic "big eye" aesthetic. You can head over to the HODINKEE Shop and see the entire drop for yourself right here, or check out a few select highlights below. 

1999 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3919

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is considered the gold standard of classic dress watch design. The simple, uncomplicated aesthetic and slim, round gold case of the original 1930s ref. 96 helped define the genre, and here, we have a more modern take on the Calatrava archetype. This ref. 3919 is from the late 1990s and features a textured hobnail finish on the bezel and a clean white dial with printed black Roman numerals and a small seconds display at six o'clock. It's classy and subtle, bold and elegant, all in a single watch – what more could you want?

1969 Rolex 'Red' Submariner Ref. 1680 With Mark II Dial

The Rolex Submariner has maintained its status as an undisputed icon from its debut in 1953 all the way up to today. There is no watch that better personifies a single category as the Submariner does the dive watch genre, and the brand continues to make small adjustments to it, steadily tweaking and improving even the smallest aesthetic and technical details. Originally produced with no date window, the Submariner was updated with a date complication when the ref. 1680 was released in the late 1960s. This reference signaled a new type of Submariner, one that continues to be produced side-by-side with the no-date iteration.

The ref. 1680 stood out for more than just its three o'clock calendar at its debut, though. It also featured the "Submariner" branding on the dial in bold red text, earning the "Red" Submariner nickname. Rolex stopped using red text on the dial of this reference in the mid-1970s, so not all ref. 1680s have it. Today's example dates to 1969, and it's an early production example, featuring the highly sought-after Mark II dial execution with a "meters-first" depth rating. These Mark II dials are known to go tropical with age, which makes them a consistent favorite among watch lovers around the world.

1965 Breitling Co-Pilot Chronograph Ref. 765CP

This mid-1960s chronograph is a great example of one of Breitling's most sought-after vintage watches. The Co-Pilot ref. 765CP has become so desired over the decades that Breitling even released a re-edition earlier this year. Why? Well, it all boils down to character, and today's example has a ton of it. 

It starts with the black dial, which has been executed in a reverse-"panda" fashion and features a concentric engine-turned decoration on the silvery-white sub-dials, adding another layer of depth to the look. The 15-minute register at three o'clock is also slightly larger than the other two sub-dials, and it features luminous stripes every three minutes, forming somewhat of a star pattern that makes this watch entirely unique and totally charming. If you look closely at the lower portion of the dial, you might notice an unconventional tritium indication. Instead of the more common "T SWISS T" marker (or one of its close variations), this watch has a small "T" under the hour sub-dial with an even smaller "Swiss" marker below it at the very bottom of the dial. Piston pushers and a black 12-hour bezel with a triangular zero marker help tell the rest of the story on this popular vintage pilots' chronograph. 

The Full Set

In addition to the three highlights above, we have a beautiful 1960s Meylan chronograph with a decimal scale, a funky Bulova Accutron Diver from 1975, a well-sized Angelus chronograph with great patina from the 1940s, a 1960s Wittnauer Ref. 8025 with a two-tone 12/24-hour dial, a cool Fortis chronograph with orange and blue accents from the 1970s, a 1960s Zodiac Sea Wolf with beautiful light blue bezel, and a seldom-seen Seaboard-Yacht chronograph from the 1960s. Head over to HODINKEE Shop for a closer look at all of today's new watches!

Welcome to another installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Holly Titus, Kieran Chaplin, Adam Schoenberg, Alessandro Curcuruto, and Chaitanya Gaglani.

Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story.

Holly Titus And Her Vintage Omega

Sometimes serendipitous moments are a big part of our love of watches. For Holly, from Indianapolis, Indiana, the endeavor to find the exact model her grandfather wore wouldn't have happened without a little bit of good fortune. Holly has distinct memories of her grandfather's watch – for him, it was an everyday wear. Finding his watch through photos, and the help of some friends in the watch community, was a way for Holly to honor the special life he lived and the impression he left on her growing up.

Kieran Chaplin And His Swatch (And His Daughter's Flik Flak)

There's no better way to get your child to learn how to tell the time than to start them early. For Kieran and his daughter, who live outside London, their shared love of watches grew recently when they were gifted the latest HODINKEE Swatch and accompanying Flik Flak for Kieran's birthday. Kieran is proud knowing that their new watches will always be a connection between him and his daughter.

Adam Schoenberg And His Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675

New York City resident Adam Schoenberg always had a love for the Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675. In 2010, before starting the brand Hook & Albert, he had to sell his beloved watch to fund his business. It wasn't until years later, inside a J. Crew shop, that Adam encountered his very watch again in one of the displays. Before eventually landing on his wrist once again, the story takes another interesting turn – but we'll leave it to Adam to tell you the rest of it. 

@adamjschoenberg

Alessandro Curcuruto And His Universal Genève Uni-Compax

Alessandro, from Pisa, Italy, received this Universal Genève Uni-Compax from his grandfather, who had received it from his own mother. It was on Alessandro's grandfather's wrist when he immigrated to Argentina, and when he met his wife. It was also on his grandfather's wrist when Alessandro's mother and her sister were born years later. On the day Alessandro was born, his grandfather gave it to his aunt, who eventually gave it to Alessandro when he turned 18. He now lives in Zurich and wears it proudly – and it makes him feel like his family is close to him.

Chaitanya Gaglani And His Omega Speedmaster

For some, watches are a good way to remind us of places we've been. After high school, Chaitanya moved from Mumbai to Philadelphia and made the city his home for 16 years. When his chapter in America came to a close, Chaitanya needed a tangible object he could carry with him for the rest of his life – this Omega Speedmaster. Every time he winds his watch in the morning, it reminds him of his time in the City of Brotherly Love.

@cmg

Ready To Submit Your Own Watch Story? Here's How It Works

1. Pick one watch that is very special to you, and get your camera phone ready.

2. Record a video telling us your most interesting or meaningful story about your watch. Let's say 2-3 minutes is the sweet spot – if you go longer, that's okay. (And please remember to introduce yourself: your name and where you are from.)

3. Get creative, keep it clean, and have fun! 

4. Take some photos on the wrist and a few shots of the watch so that we can proudly display them on our site. Horizontal, please.

5. To share your video and photos, you can either A) upload here; or B) upload to your preferred large file transfer service and send a link to mywatchstory@hodinkee.com.

Sir David Salomons (1851-1925) was a man of many and diverse interests – his home, north of Tunbridge Wells (of which he was mayor at one point) is now preserved as a museum, but during his lifetime, it was a hotbed of scientific and engineering research. Salomons was fascinated by electricity, and the house was one of the first to be equipped with electric lighting. Salomons had his own generator on the premises, and his workshops were equipped with thousands of machine tools; he was also the holder of patents relating to electric lighting, as well as various instruments and other electrical devices. Unsurprisingly, he was also interested in automobiles and aeronautics.

He was also obsessed with horology, and particularly, with the work of Abraham Louis Breguet, of whom he famously wrote, "To carry a fine Breguet watch is to feel that you have the brains of a genius in your pocket." (Which always makes me want to follow up with, "and the heart of a saint in a jar of formaldehyde under the bed," but perhaps this is not the time to be irreverent). Over the course of his lifetime, he amassed the single greatest collection of Breguet clocks and watches anyone has ever assembled, which included many of Breguet's most famous works, such as the "Duc de Praslin" watch, which he donated to the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris, in 1924; it is the second most complicated watch Breguet ever made. It is, however, much less well known than the single most famous watch Salomons ever owned, which is of course Breguet no. 160, better known as the "Marie Antoinette" grand complication. Salomons produced a complete, self-published catalog of his collection in 1921, which has gone on to become a classic of the literature on Breguet (albeit very difficult to consult in person for many years; only 1,000 volumes of the original were printed, and it did not go back into print until 2015).

The Salomons collection eventually found a home in perhaps an unlikely seeming place: the L. A. Mayer Museum For Islamic Art, in Jerusalem. The Museum was founded by Salomons' daughter Vera; the Museum says, of its founder, "Vera Salomons herself saw art as a bridge between people, and a way of drawing them together. Her decision to establish a museum, particularly in Jerusalem, which would showcase Islamic art in all its splendor, was intended to lessen the hostility between Jews and Arabs and build a bridge between their cultures. The fund she left for the museum ensures its continued existence, without public funding." 

Most horological enthusiasts will be aware that more than half of the Salomons Breguet collection was stolen from the Museum in 1983, and for many years, its whereabouts remained a mystery. But the watches were eventually recovered in 2006 (the full story is on Wired), and it can today still be seen at the Museum. (One of my most vivid memories was getting a very unexpected phone call from none other than Nicholas G. Hayek, on a Sunday morning, no less, prior to the collection's recovery; he somehow had gotten wind of my interest in the collection and gave me a very interesting earful – one of the first things, by the way, that he told me to do was talk to Joe Thompson, now my colleague here at HODINKEE, of course).

Seeing the Salomons collection is probably the single greatest horological pilgrimage I've never made, and I wish I had made it before this year just to see it all together, because three remarkable pieces from the collection will be offered at auction by the Museum, through Sotheby's, on October 26, as part of two sales featuring a variety of objects from the Museum including watches, art, and other objets de vertu. The Museum is not publicly funded (Vera Salomons established its endowment from her own personal wealth), and the Chairman of the Museum's board of directors, Herbert Winter, remarked, "The decision to let go of certain pieces in our collection is one that has unfolded over the course of several years, through thoughtful discussion with all of our key stakeholders, namely our board, our director, and our curators. Together, we have been careful to select for sale works which, for the most part, are either duplicated in the collection or were held in storage. Their sale will not only secure the future of the museum, but will allow us to maintain and display our wonderful collection in an appropriate manner, and – importantly – it will allow us to expand on the educational community projects which align so closely both with our founding mission and with our future vision."

It is certainly unusual to encounter any complicated Breguet, from the period of his floruit, at auction, but to have three such timepieces come under the hammer at the same time can, I think, fairly be called, if not unprecedented in a literal sense, certainly an extremely rare event. The three watches are No. 20-148, made for the same Duc de Praslin who owned the highly complicated no. 92 now in the Musée des Arts et Métiers; No. 1806, which was made for Caroline Bonaparte, the Princess Murat, who was a regular Breguet client and Napoleon's sister; and finally, and most spectacularly, No. 2788. No. 2788 is a resonance watch with two balances – one of only a tiny handful made by Breguet known to exist; only two others are known – and it was made for the Prince Regent, later George IV, of England.

The Caroline Bonaparte No. 1806

Caroline Bonaparte was one of Breguet's most enthusiastic and frequent clients – she is perhaps better known to modern Breguet clients as Caroline Murat, the Queen Of Naples during the reign of her husband Joachim Murat. The watch was purchased in 1806, but Caroline seems to have given it, at some point, to one Auguste-Charles-Joseph le Comte de Flahaut, Joachim Murat's aide-de-camp. The catalog entry from Sotheby's for this watch notes, "Given Charles Joseph's close relationship to the Murats, it seems likely that the present watch was purchased as a gift for him by Caroline. Furthermore, Caroline became Comte Flahaut's lover in 1804 and bearing in mind the fact that the watch has a concealed inner cuvette which at one time contained a portrait miniature, it is interesting to speculate that it was perhaps Caroline’s portrait that the watch contained. In any event the watch was later returned to Breguet by Comte Flahaut in 1814 and re-sold by Breguet in 1815. It seems probable that the portrait miniature was removed at that point, if not for privacy reasons then at least for the fact that it would have been of little relevance to a new, unrelated owner."

This large (62mm) watch has a ruby cylinder escapement (Breguet's cylinder escapements were of extremely high quality and capable of keeping a very close rate) and is a quarter repeater, operated by the push-piece in the bow of the watch. (A quarter repeater chimes on demand, ringing the hours and the nearest quarter-hours; the quarter repeater preceded the minute repeater, and today, the complication is essentially never encountered in a new watch). The watch also has a calendar with year indication, and a thermometer. 

Breguet was most interested in thermometers; the catalog essay notes, "Breguet devoted considerable time to the development of the thermometer applying the feature both to his watches and, in isolation, to rings or fobs. In this watch the fan-form sector for thermometer acts not only as a useful display, but also has the added advantage of enhancing the dial's balance and symmetry. As the temperature rises and falls, a bi-metallic strip mounted around the outer edge of the movement expands and contracts. The strip is connected to a rack and pinion which moves back and forth as the strip changes its shape, thereby causing the thermometer's hand to traverse the dial scale." The property of bimetallic strips to change dimensionally as temperature changes also is the basis for the temperature compensated bimetallic balance. Interestingly, Breguet did not fit this watch with such a balance, which has a plain brass three-armed balance instead. Caroline Murat's famous oval wristwatch, which according to Breguet was delivered in 1812, was also a repeating watch with thermometer. 

The estimate from Sotheby's is £200,000-300,000.

The Duc De Praslin No. 20-148

Like so many of Breguet's clients for complicated watches, the Duc de Praslin was a major historical figure and a powerful and influential individual. Born in Paris in 1756, Antoine Caesar was promoted to the rank of Field Marshal in 1791, which is also the year that he received this watch. He and his wife were both arrested (unsurprisingly) during the Reign of Terror, but their children's tutor (Joseph François Baudelaire, father of the famous poet Charles) intervened on their behalf. The Duc de Praslin would go on to become a member of the Senate under Napoleon, and became Commander of the Legion d'Honneur in 1804 before passing away in 1808. A great admirer of Breguet's, he also commissioned Breguet No. 92, the second most complicated watch Breguet ever made.

No. 20-148 is not only a complex watch, but it is also one that was designed to be as accurate as the best horological technology of the day could make it. It is fitted with an Earnshaw chronometer detent escapement, with a compensating balance. It also has separate day and date indications, a power-reserve indication, and a thermometer. It is also a perpetuelle – a self-winding watch, wound via a platinum weight. Breguet's perpetuelle watches were very efficient; in The Art Of Breguet, the late George Daniels notes that "a brisk walk of less than half a mile will fully wind the mainsprings." The watch is also a minute repeater, with the chimes activated via the push-piece in the bow. At 59mm, it is slightly smaller than No. 1806.

Complicated watches from Breguet are generally notable for the refinement with which the display of information is handled, and No. 20-148 is no exception, with the sectors for the thermometer and power reserve giving the dial a wonderful symmetry, reinforced by the manner in which the sub-dial for the running seconds and day of the week indication mirrors the design of the larger dial for the time and date. An interesting feature of the watch is that there is no indication for the 31st day of the month, which means that the date must be manually re-set at the end of eight months out of twelve.

The estimate for this watch is £250,000-350,000.

The Prince Regent's No. 2788.

The catalog entry for this watch states that the Prince Regent, later King George IV, "had a fractious relationship with his father, King George II, however they clearly shared a passion for horology and during their lifetimes, an array of unusual and important watches and clocks entered the Royal Collection." George III was also a Breguet client and actually received one of the earliest tourbillon watches from Breguet during the Napoleonic wars – a most impressive and very splendid timepiece, certainly fit for a king. The Prince Regent also purchased several Breguet watches for himself, including No. 83 (a ten-minute repeater with ruby cylinder and which also repeated the date, which is extremely unusual) and which later would end up in the Salomons collection. He also purchased one of Breguet's rare sympathique clocks.

Now, if you are interested in the pursuit of precision, and in how it was achieved in bygone days, starting with just brass, steel, and jeweled bearings, this watch is the stuff that dreams are made of. It is actually the simplest watch out of the three – it does not boast so much as an hour strike; it knows not of the date nor the day of the week; the temperature is of no concern to it, and it does not condescend to show you the state of wind of the mainspring. Instead, it is only and purely devoted to a single phenomenon: that of resonance.

The phenomenon of resonance between two oscillators is simply the property of two harmonic oscillators, with the same natural frequency, to begin to beat in time with each other if they are mechanically coupled. Breguet was one of the first horologists to successfully experiment with this phenomenon in a watch (it had by his time already been widely recognized as a phenomenon in pendulum clocks). The rationale for a resonance timepiece is straightforward; two oscillators in resonance will have better rate stability than one beating in isolation. The problem, however, is that the coupling forces are extremely weak, and the watch must be made with great care and precision itself. Moreover, the two balances must be adjusted so that their rates are as close to each other as possible, or they will not achieve resonance; Breguet found it necessary to adjust his resonance watches balances to run at less than 20 seconds a day apart. This particular resonance watch, one of only three known to exist, has two mainspring barrels and two completely separate going trains leading to two separate balances.

Breguet himself found it difficult to believe that the effect could be real in a watch, for all that it had been clearly observed in pendulums. At first, he suspected that the effect was due to aerodynamic turbulence coupling the balances, and he therefore placed the balances of this watch inside steel shrouds, both to rule out such an effect and to prevent it from interfering with the rates of either balance if, in fact, it was occurring. Subsequently, he tried his resonance watches in a vacuum chamber and was pleased and pleasantly surprised to find that the coupling effect was not, in fact, due to turbulence, but was rather being transmitted, implausible as it sounds, to the movement plate by the tugging force on the balance springs at the end of each beat of each balance. Daniels notes, in The Art Of Breguet, that although Breguet usually preferred to have regulators on his spiral balance springs, that he had to dispense with them in his resonance watches, as they diminished the already tiny amount of energy transmitted to the plate via the balance spring and balance cock.

Each balance is fitted with compensation and timing weights, and this watch has retained the original aerodynamic shrouds around the balances. To keep the balance diameter as large as possible, the weights are placed, unusually, on the inside of the balances. Each balance has Breguet's pare-chute antishock system, and there are pushers in the case adjacent to each balance, to stop each one (an early example of a stop-seconds feature and one which would have aided in synchronizing the two running seconds hands). One train drives the center seconds hand while the other drives the sub-seconds hand.

From a collecting perspective, this is the sort of thing which comes along very seldom – the estimate given by Sotheby's is £400,000-600,000, but given what the watch represents historically and culturally, as well as in the history of science, I think this is apt to be exceeded, perhaps by a considerable amount. 

While the sale of any watches from the Salomons collection seems a pity, the selection of these watches seems to have been done very carefully and with a view to maintaining, as much as possible, the core strengths of the collection; Sotheby's says they worked very closely with the Mayer Museum to ensure that as much as possible, this integrity was maintained. Sotheby's chairman for watches, Daryn Schnipper, says, "These watches put on full display Breguet's mechanical genius, and represent his extensive clientele, drawing from European royalty and aristocracy. However, in choosing them, we have been extremely careful to select only the watches whose dispersal would not disturb the core of this magnificent collection. The selection was made via a collaborative process led by the curatorial team and management of the museum, in discussion with Sotheby's specialists. The guiding principle behind the selection was to ensure the integrity of the museum's collection remain intact. As a result, the vast majority of works selected for sale were either duplicates and/or in storage. We focused primarily on the two aspects of the collection where the most extensive works are comprised: the Breguet and the automata collections. We then selected a handful of Breguet watches we feel are well-represented in the collection by duplicates or pieces with similar characteristics." If the sale on October 26 produces the expected results, it will enable the Museum to continue to make the vast majority of the Salomons collection available to the public. Certainly, the Marie Antoinette isn't going anywhere.

Thanks to Sotheby's for their extensive notes on each of these lots; the auction catalog is not yet online but we'll update our coverage as soon as it becomes available. For more information about the auction, see the announcement from Sotheby's. Visit the Museum Of Islamic Art for more info on the Salomons Breguet collection and other exhibits, right here.

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, SoundCloud, Google Play and Spotify). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us what topics you'd like us to chat about (or email thegreynato@gmail.com).

For episode 125, the guys are talking about one of the top four seasons: FALL! With a meandering chat about the best bits of fall, how to make the most of the shorter days, gear for the cooler temps, and even some grill envy, this is an episode that will have you oiling your best boots, considering a vest upgrade, and wondering (like James) where to get a tiny funnel suitable for filling a flask. 

From the top (and at the end), the guys also chat about new overlanding platforms (Jeep vs. Land Rover, of course), Jason's recent road trip, new watches, hard-fought legal battles, and a whole lot more. Whether you want to live in your car or simply want to relax by watching someone else living in theirs, this episode will have you covered. Just press play and a huge thank you to G-Shock for sponsoring this episode of the show and for helping to make The Grey NATO possible.

Show Notes...

6:15
Bishop and Rook

11:35
Vortic Watches Wins Lawsuit

15:04
Beyond the Dial’s Mission Lake George with Oris

17:02
Farer’s new GMT Bezel Automatics

19:24
Banana Republic Photojournalist Vest 

23:22
Honey browser plugin

24:55
Jason’s Bremont MBII

25:37
James’ Seiko SPB143

42:12
Shearling liners for Blundstones

46:18
G-Shock Gravitymaster GRB200

50:10
Norrøna Clothing

57:17
Penderyn Whisky

59:20
Elijah Craig bourbon

59:30
Four Roses Single Barrel

1:01:01
Tembo Tusk Skottle Grill

1:04:51
Arteflame

1:07:27
The Long-Shadowed Forest

1:10:15
Alone In The Wilderness 

1:11:55
Kraig Adams Hiking 45 Miles Alone on the Grand Teton Loop

1:15:40
Venture4WD on YouTube

Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of its groundbreaking El Primero chronograph movement in 2019 with a series of watch releases that paid tribute to the original vintage examples in laser-accurate fashion. As part of the automatic chronograph movement's golden jubilee, Zenith rolled out a series of "El Primero Revival" watches which resurrected the cases found on the first batch of watches to feature the caliber in 1969, including the rounded profile of the ref. A386 and the tonneau shape of the ref. A384. 

However, not all of the Revival models followed the same launch plan. Some, such as the HODINKEE Shop-exclusive G381 Revival are limited edition releases, while others were officially introduced into the brand's production catalog. Without ever officially stating it, Zenith actually made the delineation between which models would only ever be created in limited runs, and which would be series-produced, quite clear. Those that paid tribute to the A386 – the best-known and most desirable El Primero execution – would be limited-edition releases, and Zenith even recently announced that it would be retiring the case once more. On the other hand, the new releases that used the angular A384 case profile would be placed in the spotlight for the first time in decades, with a choice of production models as well as a few exciting limited editions.

Although Zenith has become nearly synonymous with the high-beat, first-of-its-kind El Primero, and vintage examples of the popular A386 continue to rise in value, the company has a wealth of value to offer elsewhere. This includes collections like the Defy (which we recently profiled here), among other lesser-known El Primero variants. The A384 is the perfect example of exactly that; it not only brings out an underrated aspect of Zenith's heritage that is pivotal to El Primero history, but it also functions as a platform for more experimental design. 

Today in the HODINKEE Shop, we're introducing two vastly different executions of the A384, as well as a pair of chronographs from the brand's Chronomaster series that provide an alternative to the A386's beloved aesthetic, without going overboard on the vintage inspiration. All four new watches add to the historic legacy of El Primero, one of the first automatic chronograph movements on the market, in different ways.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Revival 'Shadow'

We won't fault you if, at first glance, you thought the "Shadow" edition of the Chronomaster El Primero Revival was an entirely modern creation, after it was unveiled earlier this year. It sure looks the part, with its blacked-out micro-blasted titanium case, monochromatic aesthetic, and black-and-grey dial, but in fact, the new chronograph is actually a contemporary reimagining of a little-known Zenith prototype from the 1970s.

It's been reported that less than five examples of the original steel black-PVD, manually wound chronograph (interestingly, the 1970s watch did not house an El Primero despite the movement being in production at the time) were built in total. A few years ago, in April 2017, we listed one of the few examples for sale in the HODINKEE Shop's vintage section (view that watch here), so we were quite familiar with the source of inspiration and excited to learn that Zenith would be reinterpreting the watch in a brand-new way. 

The new Zenith Shadow shares an identical 37mm, angular case profile with the standard A384 Revival model, but that's about all it has in common with its more conventional, vintage-inspired sibling.  The Shadow also stands out from the 1970s prototype in a few significant ways. Instead of black PVD-coated steel, the Zenith Shadow has a micro-blasted titanium case that renders it a matte dark grey color. The case has, of course, adopted the A384 design, and an automatic El Primero ticks at 5Hz inside. It diverges from El Primero convention, however, through the absence of a date indication – that's right, this is the rare El Primero chronograph without a date aperture at the 4:30 position. Additionally, on the dial-side, Zenith took a reductionist approach, removing all scales and timing markers save for a tachymeter on the dial's raised outer flange, and applied hour markers that are rhodium-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova.

The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Shadow is a different kind of "revival" watch for Zenith. It resurrects a chronograph that was ahead of its time and wasn't even an El Primero, while offering a new way to approach and appreciate the movement's lengthy history. It has significant visual presence with its blacked-out aesthetic, yet still flies under-the-radar due to the use of lightweight titanium and its compact 37mm diameter that sits tight on the wrist.

The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Revival Shadow comes paired with a black "Cordura effect" strap with white stitching and a titanium pin buckle that matches the micro-blasted case finish. It's available now in the HODINKEE Shop for $8,200, right here.

Zenith El Primero A384 Revival With Ladder Bracelet

While the Chronomaster Revival Shadow takes deliberate liberties with its vintage inspiration, the recently unveiled Zenith El Primero A384 Revival on a new (or old?) ladder bracelet leans even further into it, with an execution that is virtually identical to its 1969 predecessor. 

When we last visited this watch, it was only available on a black alligator strap, and we mentioned at the time that it was "designed without compromise," which is true – for the most part. One detail missing from the initial release last year was the ladder bracelet found on the original 1969 watch. That's been corrected here, as Zenith went to great lengths to recreate the unconventional bracelet found on the A384 (and A386) that was designed by Gay Frères. 

Gay Frères is likely the most well-known producer of bracelets in all of watch history, supplying brands such as Rolex (which eventually acquired the company in the late 1990s), Audemars Piguet, Heuer, and Patek Philippe with metal bands to pair with their timepieces. Of the countless bracelets Gay Frères produced over its many decades as an independent firm, the ladder bracelet is one of the best known, primarily due to its close association with the Zenith El Primero. (For a more detailed look at the history of Gay Frères, click here.)

Unlike a conventional solid three-link bracelet, a ladder bracelet removes the central link in an alternating fashion – forming an appearance similar to a ladder – to offer a more breathable and flexible wearing experience and a one-of-a-kind look. Even when the original Zenith El Primero models were equipped with this style of bracelet, it was unlike any other band on the market. Much like the watch it's connected to, everything has been reborn in exacting detail, from the finishing on the links to the clasp of the bracelet. 

There are very few brands today, if any, that can reproduce, with practically identical components, a watch that is over five decades old – and Zenith is one of them. The case of the A384 Revival is an exact replica of the original, complete with its beveled edges and brushed surfaces. Its dimensions are interchangeable to those of the 37mm original, down to the crown and piston pushers. The dial, with its panda design, red chronograph hand, tachymeter scale, and applied luminous hour markers, is just as Zenith designed it over 50 years ago. 

And with the addition of the ladder bracelet, we think the Zenith A384 Revival looks better than ever. 

Last year's Zenith El Primero A384 Revival on the original leather strap is priced at $7,700 (and is available right here), but the addition of the new ladder bracelet increases the price by $500, to $8,200 – not a bad premium at all, in our opinion. You can learn more and purchase yours here.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster

Zenith added the Chronomaster nomenclature to its collection of El Primero chronographs in the mid-1990s, and it's stuck around ever since as a brand flagship. When it first appeared, the Chronomaster series combined vintage-leaning aesthetics with modern wearability; it's believed that the first El Primero with an exhibition caseback was part of the Chronomaster line. Today, the collection operates as a catch-all lineup of chronographs that fit a variety of aesthetics, but are of course all powered by an El Primero movement. The Chronomaster El Primero Revival Shadow fits into the Chronomaster series, but so do a number of other more conventional takes on El Primero's signature look, such as the pair of watches we're adding to the HODINKEE Shop today.

These are two of our favorite classic Chronomaster examples, and they expand our current El Primero selection with new options in a larger diameter and with a steel (non-ladder) bracelet. While not an exact "revival" of the original A386, these two Chronomasters provide a cleaned-up take on the design, sharing a familiar set of overlapping, tri-color sub-dials, but removing the anachronous base-100 scale and swapping out the vintage Zenith branding for a more modern overall look.

Although the conventional A386 case profile comes in at 38mm, Zenith adapted it to a more contemporary, larger size with a 42mm diameter a few years ago. The increased size expands the total dial real estate of the watch, moving the date window away from its traditional 4:30 position to six o'clock. If you're after an El Primero and appreciate the functionality of a date window, but regret that it comes at the cost of dial symmetry, this Chronomaster is for you. The 42mm Chronomaster is available on an alligator leather strap, and it shares an identical price with its 38mm sibling, at $7,700. Learn more here.

While the A384 Revival with its new ladder bracelet has grabbed all the recent headlines for Zenith, it's worth pointing out that, for years, the company has offered its 38mm Chronomaster with a contemporary, three-link oyster-style bracelet. Its brushed outer links and polished center links do an excellent job of matching up to the multiple finishes of the case. The Zenith Chronomaster 38mm on a steel bracelet is priced at $8,200, and it's available right here.

Discover The Zenith El Primero In The HODINKEE Shop

Zenith's automatic chronograph has been a horological touchstone for watch lovers for over five decades. It set a new standard for chronograph production when it debuted in 1969, and Zenith continues to be one of the companies that is most closely associated with the category. To top it off, El Primero-equipped watches are among the few options for enthusiasts with a sub-$10,000 budget that are interested in in-house automatic chronographs with cases under 40mm (in most instances). 

There's a reason why El Primero chronographs are collector favorites. You have groundbreaking innovation, decades of history, easy wearability, and impressive value – all in one collection, all right here.

The Aquanaut is a relatively young collection for Patek Philippe. The first generation, Ref. 5060, debuted in 1997 as a little brother to the Nautilus. From that point on, the series progressed to the second generation, 5065 (1998), and then to the current generation, 5167 (2007). The one we have here for review is the Ref. 5168 (2017 onwards), which is dubbed Jumbo, a larger version of the current generation Aquanaut. 

This watch was introduced at Baselworld 2019 with a 42.2mm case in 18K white gold, khaki green dial, and rubber strap. Considering that the original 5060 is 35mm, the 5065 is 38mm (aka "Large"), and the current 5167 is 40mm, there is no doubt this "Jumbo" is a watch with some serious presence. I think it reflects Patek Philippe's positioning of the Aquanaut as a sportier collection in its catalog. For Patek Philippe, 42.2mm is one of the largest watches, and only rivaled by the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar (both 42mm), and the Celestial (44mm), which is a Grand Complication.

The big brother Nautilus is staying at 40mm, and even its annual calendar with moon-phase and chronograph-equipped variants are kept at the 40.5mm mark. The Aquanaut is clearly positioned within the luxury sport watch category. By the way, there is also a complication-equipped variant, the Aquanaut Ref. 5968A Automatic Chronograph, which shares the "Jumbo" case.

The khaki green color is undoubtedly the most notable thing about this Aquanaut, and it is a quite unusual colorway for Patek Philippe. The tone isn't vivid, and I think this matte khaki green is a versatile choice in the green dial trend. The tropical rubber strap is a slightly deeper khaki green compared to the dial, but it maintains a similar tone. Although the khaki green color is best known for its military origin, Patek demonstrates it can be quite refined. I think the octagonal bezel and the iconic porthole-inspired case design are responsible for that effect. I suppose a really great watch can wear any color (like the special red themed 5167A for the Singapore Grand Exhibition last year, for example) because the color actually enhances the fundamental character of the watch instead of muddying it up.

Even though the watch has a case diameter of 42.2mm, its extremely thin profile of 8.25mm coupled with a highly integrated rubber strap ensures a very light fit on your wrist. The lugs are designed to flow out of the case, but their stubby and sporty shape has a clear intent and purpose. Especially during the summer season, I think you could pull this off with a business casual outfit depending on your work environment (if you are telecommuting like many of us right now, you don't even have to worry about that).

I was surprised by the quality of the buckle on this watch. The main plate that touches the wrist also acts as the release button, enabling the whole buckle to be extremely compact. This construction was made possible by the plate having a springy tension (not mechanically spring-loaded), and that contributes to not only the wearing comfort but also a very smooth open-close action. Typically, your fingers would feel a resistance when you press the release buttons to undo the buckle. You'll notice next to no stress to your fingertips operating the buckle of this Aquanaut. These kinds of details really show off Patek Philippe's quality. 

The highly wearable thin case design was made possible by the Cal. 324 S C movement. This caliber made its debut in 2004, and it has since become a classic automatic powerhouse that's also used as the foundation of many other Patek Philippe movements. We often talk about thinness as a sign of quality in mechanical watchmaking, and Patek Philippe was able to come up with this masterpiece based upon its long history in this field. There are several significant design efforts in the Cal. 324 to reduce the thickness, such as offsetting the second wheel that often interferes with the winding rotor, and the third wheel driving the second pinion at the center of the movement instead of the fourth wheel running the seconds hand, which is more typical.

This caliber further shaves the thickness by placing the automatic rotor drive train on the same layer as the hand-winding mechanism and other trains. To make that happen, you'd have to design each train as efficiently and compactly as possible. The Aquanaut Ref. 5168 might be, categorically speaking, a simple 3-hander with date, but the watch packs a tremendous amount of attention to detail that is simply unmatched by most watches out there. 

For this review, we focused on this rather rare khaki green Patek Philippe, but let's think about the Aquanaut's role before closing. I believe the watch aims at something very different from the Nautilus, which is often categorized in the same genre as the Aquanaut. When I think about the target audience, I think the Nautilus is aimed at the existing customer base, while the Aquanaut is meant for a brand-new clientele. The Aquanaut is exploring important factors such as colors and sizes, and for Patek Philippe, the watch is aimed at the brand-new customer base that defines the future.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut "Jumbo" 5168G-010 Khaki Green: 42.2mm case diameter (across 10 to 4 o'clock), 8.25mm-thick; 18K white-gold case with display caseback. Movement: Cal. 324 S C, 4Hz (28,800 vph), automatic with 35-hour (mini.) to 45-hour (max.) power reserve; Spiromax hairspring, Gyromax balance. Stamped with the Patek Philippe Seal. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date. 12 ATM water resistance. Khaki green composite material strap. Price: $39,690

For details, visit Patek Philippe.

This article first appeared on HODINKEE.jp, which you can visit clicking here.

Why are there so many watches with rainbows? And what's on the other side? In a trend that is seemingly 2020 specific, a slew of watch brands have released collections centered around singular models – in a variety of colorful options. I am talking brands from almost every segment of the horological landscape. This trend appeared seemingly out of nowhere, and it was not until we wrote two different articles (on two different colorful watch collections) in the span of a week that I really took notice of it. I was looking at the HODINKEE Instagram when I thought that maybe the same post had been published twice. Each image displayed a colorful, dare I say rainbow-like, array of watches. But of course, on closer and more attentive inspection, they were entirely different. Since that time, my antenna has been up for every subsequent brightly colored release that has followed.

Kermit (yes, the frog) put it best in encapsulating the appeal of the rainbow when he sang that, "Rainbows have nothing to hide." In terms of this year's releases, that rings true. With the introduction of watches in so many colorways, there is no color missing, and no variant to hide. I thought it might be worthwhile to round up some this year's more brightly colored offerings, revisit what makes them interesting from that vantage point, and see if there's a rainbow connection to be made amongst them all. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & 41

When I think of the Oyster Perpetual, it strikes me as the most stripped-down synthesis of a Rolex watch. Heck, nearly every Rolex model has the words printed right on the dial. In many ways, it is the foundational watch, the one to rule them all. As such, it has historically given off the complete opposite of a playful tone. It is the kind of watch that speaks only when spoken to, and that will laugh at your jokes only because it has to – out of fear of being returned to the watch box or, worse yet, sold.

In recent years, there has been a slow push to make the watch more "fun." Think of the since-discontinued OP 39 range: plum dial with pink accents; blue dial with green accents; and rhodium dial with blue accents. But even those still seemed a bit reserved. In the fictional yearly convention of Rolex watches (an event only the watches themselves may attend), the Submariner and Explorer have the same conversation with the OP, year after year: 

"OP, you need to cut loose and relax," says the Explorer, mulled wine in hand. 

"Yes, live a little ... dive into life," muses the Sub, still dripping wet – and also not wearing any shoes.

They motion over to Milgauss – life of the party – passed out, beer in hand, sombrero over face.

Well, years of prodding finally did the trick, with the new Oyster Perpetual in 36 and 41mm now sporting coral, yellow, light pink, dark green, and powder blue dials. This is a new year, new Oyster, and it has an entirely new personality to boot. It sports double baton markers (because it's rebellious, and knows you prefer the single batons), and the dial colors give off an assuredness not often seen in this line. Gone are the days when you get to the call the Oyster Perpetual "under the radar."

I happen to think the coral and yellow dials are big winners. They boast deep, rich, and bold shades of each respective color and are most reminiscent of the famed (and oft-copied) Stella dial Rolex watches of the '70s. Because they have lost their conservative effect, I think the 41mm sizing suits the watches overall, and since the 36mm wears larger given the modern Rolex case design, it is also a great look. Aside from the colors, the inclusion of the Rolex Easylink extension system makes these "entry-level" watches even more capable, and a lot closer to Rolex's professional models. Although Rolex didn't intend to take part in any colorful watch trend this year, the OP certainly fits in swimmingly. 

Click here for more on the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 and click here for more on the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41.

Doxa Sub 300

Speaking of Rolex, Doxa is a brand that, at one time, stood shoulder to shoulder with the "Crown" in the dive watch pantheon (and many argue still does). To be honest, I almost didn't add these watches to this list because, in some ways, they aren't new. In other ways, they are entirely new. In a third way, they are some mixture of old and new. No matter, here they are. The reason for my reticence is that Doxa's colored dials are a known quantity, and the colorways have not changed with the release of this updated Doxa Sub 300 line.

It was upon seeing the colorful array of Doxa's rubber straps, color-matched with the equally colorful dials, that I made the decision that these watches were worthy of inclusion here. The Doxa Sub 300 represents a modern upgrade over the 300T, more specifically, a return to the proportions of vintage Doxa divers. Like I said, part old, part new. The one thing I have always appreciated about the Sub 300 line from Doxa is that it has remained, for the most part, unchanged. These aren't pretty watches, and for the people who wear them, that's a good thing. These are chunks of metal that tell the time, and having that extra bit of color is a way to keep things light in the deep heavy waters. 

Sometimes, I hear a voice in my head telling me to buy an orange Doxa – that I need one – in a soft whisper. Everywhere I see a Doxa, I see an orange dial. To be honest – and I know this is a silly thing to say in an article about colorful watches – I am partial to the black dial Sharkhunter. While I could see myself enjoying the blue of the Caribbean or the even lighter blue of the Aquamarine (for some reason, the yellow-dial Divingstar just isn't my bag), I just have a sentimental attachment to the Sharkhunter, even though I don't own one. Just watch how good Robert Redford makes that watch look, on a bund strap no less, in Three Days of the Condor, and you might see where I am coming from.

Click here for more on the Doxa Sub 300.

Cool Hunting + NOMOS Club Campus 38 Limited Edition Pride Models

I remember seeing the press photos for these watches and just immediately jiving with the aesthetic. Similar to the Rolex OP line, these colors are really specific and very attractive. It was actually these watches, and the aforementioned Doxas, that had me seeing double on Instagram, as I referenced in the opening paragraph. This collection, as a whole, supports the broader LGBTQI+ community at large with proceeds from each sale going to The Trevor Project, the world's largest suicide prevention and crisis intervention organization for LGBTQ young people. This limited edition collection is not jumping on a design trend but rather utilizing the symbolism of the rainbow to illustrate the meaning behind the watches themselves.

The Club Campus aesthetic and California dial – already a great design – arguably work better against this backdrop of colors. The only issue with these watches is that I would want to buy them all. Maybe I would wear three watches to a wrist (or forearm), and set each watch to a different time-zone. You see, that is the kind of versatility that a multicolored collection of watches offers – six time-zone functionality. The mere idea of buying six watches is bolstered by the fact that, with this release, NOMOS kept the price to an extremely approachable $1,650, so it would not be inconceivable to pick up all six variants in one go. The only bad news (or good news really, given the charitable aspect), is that all of these watches have since sold out.

Click here for more on the Cool Hunting + NOMOS Club Campus 38 Limited Edition Pride Models.

Breitling Endurance Pro

These are a divisive bunch of watches, let me tell you – but, they are nonetheless colorful. I've already highlighted these as my favorite 2020 release at or under $3,000 (much to the chagrin of many readers), but I found the mix of professional sport capability, and the playfulness of the colors, to make something of a great watch for this day and age. We often yearn for tool watches – which, in many ways, these are. These are light, chronometer-rated timepieces, and while they may sport a quartz movement, at least it is SuperQuartz.

What makes these watches all the more endearing is the implementation of the color scheme. It is different from the other collections present on this list in that regard. On the Endurance Pro, the strap is where you really first see the color. In all, there is blue, white, yellow, red, and orange. Each watch has a corresponding, and color-matched, signed Breitling strap. The color matching is not necessarily to the dial either, but rather various nooks and crannies on the case and flange, which bring out the color in a more nuanced sort of way (if you can even call a dial design this complex nuanced). The black dial keeps things professional, and the splashes of color on the pulsation scale, crown, and pusher keeps things fun. Oh, it also doesn't hurt that the most recent winner of the Tour de France – Tadej Pogacar – had one on wrist when he crossed the finish line. 

Click here for more on the Breitling Endurance Pro.

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec Color Edition Four Seasons

Here is a brand I, admittedly, do not follow too closely, but with my colorful watch spidey sense on hyperdrive, this collection came across my radar. This is a release that seems to have been – much unlike Rolex – devised in response to the current pandemic, as an effort to bring some color, and positivity, into the lives of the watch-loving public. Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer, said of the watches: "After the past couple of challenging months, we felt it was time to bring some bright colors onto the wrists of watch aficionados around the world." In addition, this colorful array of watches, four in all, is meant to represent the four seasons. 

This is not the kind of watch I see myself wearing, but I appreciate the utilization and implementation of some very cool complications – notably the ability to track three time-zones. I also like the idea of raising people's spirits during such a down time. Do I think these watches will do that? I don't know – probably not, but, as they say, it's the thought that counts. Much like Rolex, this is another recent entrant into the colorful watch release slate, and while it may not excite like some of the other releases, its nice to see such a wide spectrum of brands, and watches, existing in the multicolored space this year.

Click here for more on the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec Color Edition Four Seasons.

I was tempted to insert one other watch on this list, although, it didn't technically fit the qualifications. That was the Breitling SuperOcean '57 Capsule Rainbow Edition: a single, limited edition watch (actually released twice this year – one with a black dial and the other with a blue dial) with a rainbow graduation on the hour markers and hands. This is a watch I have long wanted to see in the metal, and though it didn't get released as a rainbow collection of watches per se, the dial design at least deserved mention here. 

I recall once reading a quote from Alan Moore – author of the now-classic graphic novel Watchmen – about how his own creation somewhat got away from him once it was released into the world. As he put it, "It was never my intention to start a trend for darkness. I'm not a particularly dark individual." Such is the way of trends. We don't often know where they begin (though we can do our best to surmise), and we likewise don't know why they begin. In the watch world, there are trends aplenty. They aren't always obvious right away, but they become more evident with time.

In the case of the rainbow watch, we can sort of trace the trend to the 2018 release of the Rolex Daytona. Although Rolex had been making the Rainbow Daytona for years prior that, it was the 2018 version that really permeated both the watch enthusiast community, as well as celebrity culture. You can also check out noted Rolex collector John Mayer's words on that watch in his second Talking Watches appearance – and let's just say, he likes it a lot. In 2019, brands like AP, Hublot, and Parmigiani Fleurier joined the fray. Rolex was back again that year with the Rainbow Day-Date.

This year, however, the definition of "rainbow" has shifted. Instead of diamond-encrusted high-end watches, we have seen brands release pieces at lower price segments. The aforementioned Breitling Superocean '57 is testament to that idea. But taking it a step further, we see the rainbow idea has turned, rather, to shaping entire collections into a rainbow, or multi-colored array, rather than confining this concept to a single piece. That trend, in particular, seems to be tied pretty exclusively to this year as we have seen from the list. 

The interesting thing is how many brands released these multicolored collections, seemingly unbeknownst to one another. Maybe it was just one massive coincidence. On the other hand, maybe it was the product of a secret meeting held in Geneva (the kind that requires an even more secret handshake for entry) wherein it was decided, unequivocally, that this would be the year of colorful watches. Anyone not in compliance would be summarily dismissed and excommunicated from the group. Okay, I think coincidence is a cleaner explanation here, given the two options, though it leaves the "why" out of things. So while it looks like we won't know the rainbow connection between all of these releases after all, maybe someday we'll find it.