The trouble with limited edition watches is that they often celebrate something incredibly esoteric and only significant to a select few. Seiko's 55th anniversary trilogy is not one of those limited editions. Instead, it celebrates over half a century of innovation in dive watches. Many of us in the hobby found our way in through a Seiko diver, and that's no accident. When it comes to democratic, innovative, and honest watchmaking, Seiko is at the top. Many of their dive watches specifically exemplify that notion. Think of Seiko's limited edition trilogy release as a wearable history lesson in the long (and continuing) arc of how the Seiko dive watch has risen to become an icon. It's a crash course in Seiko's historical relationship with the ocean, exploration, and technical innovation. 

Of course, these are not standard production models, and they're certainly not spec'd or priced that way either. This is Seiko using the 55th anniversary of its dive watch as an opportunity to create something that doesn't need to follow standard rules of scheduled production. Robust and accessible dive watches have long been a mainstay in Seiko's line up, and it's important to note the original examples that inspired this trilogy were exactly that. But with this trio, it seems like Seiko revisited the watches with this question: If we could max out the specs of these models, what would it look like? You're looking at the result.

These three are packed to the bezel with technical features like an upgraded movement and a new case material, but that doesn't change the way they wear. It does, however, change the way one can appreciate the watch. 

The three watches that make up the trilogy are the SLA037, SLA039, SLA041. In other words, a modern re-creation of the 62MAS/6217 from 1965, the 6159-7001 from 1968, and the Professional Diver’s 600m from 1975. While the watches were announced all together as a trilogy, the actual releases have been staggered. 

In a standard Hands-On post, we'd be taking a closer look at how a single watch wears, and we'll do that, but this isn't a normal Hands-On post because Seiko decided to bestow the trinity upon us all at once. It's an opportunity to look at the watches together and analyze themes and common threads among the three models. Watches are rarely released in a vacuum. Before it was a collector-driven market, the introduction of a watch was primarily a reaction to functional demands of specific circumstances and needs. For the 62MAS, that was an Antarctic mission and, more broadly, the advent of SCUBA diving. 

Now, of course, watches are an answer to the nostalgic longing of collectors. The 55th anniversary trio is squarely aimed at collectors – only 1,100 examples of each model will be built. So what is that nostalgia built on, anyway? Why are these three particular models worth celebrating? 

The Start Of The Seiko Dive Watch

In 1965, Seiko released the 62MAS, the first-ever dive watch from the brand. It featured a non-hacking 6217 movement, a quick-set date, and an impressive 150m of water resistance. It wasn't necessarily a response to the development of early dive watches coming out of Europe in the '50s, particularly the likes of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms or the Rolex Submariner. The impetus for the creation of the watch was to meet the needs of researchers who would be working in the harsh conditions of the Antarctic during the Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition that would take place starting in 1967 according to a document uncovered by The Grand Seiko Guy. In a November 1968 sales update news bulletin Seiko wrote to dealers within Japan that Dr. Tetsuya Torii, a JARE research scientist who we've covered here, returned from the 8th Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition (1967-68) with the news that the 62MAS Seiko had provided performed well in Antarctic conditions. Meanwhile, back in the Kanagawa prefecture, Seiko was already testing their new model, the 6215, Seiko's first 300m diver, by having the team leader of the upcoming expedition 9th JARE expedition to Antarctica take it diving to see how it performed before Seiko would issue four models to be used in the Antarctic. The 6215 boasted a monobloc case and 300m water resistance, it went on sale in June in 1967. In just two short years after the 62MAS, Seiko had doubled the water resistance rating.

When the Japanese dive watch was released in 1965, Japan had emerged as the leading economic power in Asia. Extensive restoration efforts after World War II allowed Japan to flourish. A massive wave of technology and innovation swept through the automotive industry, shipbuilding operations, steel manufacturing, and electronics production. Watches also benefited from this economic boom, and when you're talking watches in this era, you're talking Seiko and Citizen. Seiko was arguably a zaibatsu, or a large Japanese company that had an economic advantage due to vertical integration. Looking back, the 62MAS was the primary competitor to the dive watches from Europe technologically, although its release predates the arrival of Seiko in America and most of the Western world. Seiko set up shop in the U.S. in 1967, when Tokyo's K. Hattori & Co. established Seiko Time Corp. in New York, as Joe Thompson points out here. 

The 62MAS set the stage for what would become a range of successful dive watches executed at every level. There's always been an accessible model in the lineup, but as early as 1968, Seiko produced a "superwatch" in the form of the 6159-7001. It used a hi-beat movement and a monobloc case, and it was developed specifically for professional divers. It featured double the water-resistance of its predecessor at 300m thanks to a screw-down crown. In only three short years, Seiko doubled the water resistance and designed a watch that would meet the needs of the most serious divers of the era. In the '60s and '70s, Japanese engineering prowess, specifically Seiko's, was on full display. 

In the early '70s, diving technology had outpaced that of horological design and a problem emerged: Crystals were popping out of watches due to helium build-up. A professional diver wrote as follows to Seiko:

"I am a diver who works at depths of 350m using a diving bell. When diving to such depths, we can pressurize to 35 atmospheres (ATM) over a short period of time before diving. However, after diving, we must use a decompression chamber to depressurize gradually. The ocean floor is an extremely harsh environment in which to work, and Seiko's current 300m specification diver’s watch is unfit for use..."

Seiko accepted the challenge to meet the needs of this single diver. 

They addressed this very specific problem by introducing the 6159-7010. It took 20 patents and an unconventional approach to create the watch. Rather than incorporating a helium release valve like some of its contemporaries, the 6159-7010 never let any helium in the watch to begin with. It accomplished this through specially designed gaskets and seals. Again, water resistance doubled, and the "tuna," as it became known, was water-resistant to 600m. 

It was these three milestone dive watches that inspired the 55th anniversary trio that's being rolled out in summer 2020. 

The SLA037

To fully understand the SLA037, one must rewind to 2017 when Seiko re-released the 62MAS in the form of the SLA017. The redesign was handled by Seiko's longtime designer Nobuhiro Kosugi, and the guiding philosophy behind the reboot was to keep it as close as possible, aesthetically, to the original. They succeeded: The watch is regarded as a masterclass in how to re-create a classic. What put it over the top is the inclusion of the 8L35, which is assembled in the Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Morioka alongside Grand Seiko movements. That's special. This isn't the movement you would find in the Seikos that are heavily discounted at department stores (for the record, those movements, like the 6R15, are stupendous – and so are the watches they're in). 

Visually, the dial is the major update that we get with the SLA037. It's a deep blue and subtly wears a faint sunburst pattern. It catches the light in such a way that a bowtie-shaped sheen appears when viewed at an angle. The thick surrounds hug the LumiNova indices to form a bold marker that's incredibly legible. The 62MAS laid the foundational design language for many Seiko divers to follow, and it works just as good today as it did in 1965. The funny thing about this watch is that it demonstrates that, in terms of legibility, watches certainly have not come a long way. A design from 1965 can stack up to just about anything that's been released recently. The same fonts are used, and the crown is signed.

Unsurprisingly, it wears like a vintage watch, too. At 39.9mm, it occupies that sweet spot that a growing number of consumers are excited about. The case is fashioned from Seiko's proprietary "Ever-Brilliant Steel," but the SLA037 features a matte finish, so it's "brilliance" is muted. But, that's only from a head-on position. The sides of the case are finished with zaratsu polishing (not to be confused with zaibatsu, a large vertically integrated Japanese company, which Seiko could be considered, mentioned above). The case finishing is a drastic improvement over the 62MAS. That seems like it would be obvious, but it also feels like this is certainly the watch that Seiko would make had they had the modern manufacturing technology available to them in '65. A blue tropic rubber strap that matches the dial comes with the watch, and to my knowledge, it doesn't come on any other Seiko model.

Inside is Seiko's caliber 8L55. This is where the most dramatic improvement is; what makes the SLA037 even more compelling than 2018's SLA017 is the upgraded movement. The 8L55 runs at 36,000 vph, while the old 8L35 operates at 28,800 vph. It uses 11 additional jewels, and the power reserve has been bumped up to 55 hours. 

Anniversary celebration aside, the SLA037 seems like Seiko followed the watch to its logical conclusion, taking advantage of the numerous technological advancements they've made over the years and packed it into the ultimate expression of the 62MAS. 

And it only took Seiko a short three years after the 1965 62MAS launch to come up with a watch that featured a case design that was well ahead of the contemporary crop of dive watches in 1968. 

The SLA039

Monobloc cases just wear differently. The SLA039 sits tight and flat on the wrist because there's no indentation or ridge formed by a caseback – it's flush and tight. Again, Seiko has already re-created a watch that honors the original from 1968 to a tee in the form of the SLA025. It was a home run, and examples on the secondary market are quite sought after.

The new SLA039 uses the same case shape and general aesthetic, but it doesn't follow the original as closely as the SLA025 did. There are no gold accents – instead, the same deep blue dial is used, and text and marker surrounds are now grey and silver to match the dial. It lends a modern feel to the watch. Two facets of the monobloc case form an angle at its leading edge, and both facets are zaratsu-polished. There's a certain magic in the way the sides of the case light up and reflect light while the front of the case remains brushed. There's also something distinctive about the way the watch wears. The monobloc case makes a big difference in bringing the 44.8mm size down to what feels much smaller. It's a tall watch at 15.7mm, but again, something about a flat back makes it a totally manageable wear.  

The SLA039 features the same host of upgrades that the SLA037 has over the SLA017, namely an 8L55 movement and "Ever-Brilliant Steel" case. This type of steel has a slight silvery sheen, and Seiko claims it's 1.7-times more resistant to pitting than 316L, the standard metal used in most dive watches. When it comes to the SLA039, it's the case that sticks out. The design is unmistakable, and the use of Ever-Brilliant Steel makes sense in this application as the watch was originally designed for professional use. And what's impressive is that this 2020 model is rated for professional use. In case you're skeptical, "FOR SATURATION DIVING" is engraved in the caseback. It's got the specs to match the tool watch aesthetic. 

But when it comes to the tool aesthetic, there simply aren't any models in Seiko's past that epitomize the tool watch look more than the "tuna." 

The SLA041

The "Grandfather Tuna," the 6159-7010, was a solution to a very specific problem in 1975. It's rarely lauded for balanced and restrained looks; in fact, it's quite the opposite. Sometimes, the results of design briefs land right in the middle of the functional-beautiful spectrum, other times they might skew to one side. The Tuna has always landed on the function side of the spectrum. In an account written for Seiko by Taro Tanaka, the lead developer of the original 6159-7010, he notes that the external appearance of the watch was indeed important: 

We made numerous prototypes and worked to refine the various elements of the design: including the shape, texture and color of the outer case (the part that is most eye catching), the rotating bezel, crown (winding knob) and strap; the mutual balance of these elements and the overall operability of the watch when all of these elements are combined as one; the feel and comfort of wearing the watch; its sense of presence, and the atmosphere or aura that it exudes.

And because of its truly unique aesthetic, it's developed a cult following among the folks the SLA041 is made for. Like the other watches in the series, it's the ultimate expression of what the tuna can be. The specs have been maxed out, save for the movement. Instead of the 8L55, it uses the 8L35. The 8L35 is no slouch, though, as it's still a close cousin of the 9S55 found in Grand Seikos. 

Ever-Brilliant Steel is used for the bezel and blacked-out titanium for the rest of the case, just like the original. Titanium is superior to steel in many ways, so Seiko has only upgraded the bits that were originally standard stainless steel to its Ever-Brilliant Steel. 

The dimensionality of the Tuna isn't like other watches. It's easy to wear, sure, but it doesn't disappear. The light weight of the watch takes some of the perceived "presence" away, but it's the kind of watch that you might keep in the drawer until a dive trip. Of course, some folks use the tuna as an everyday watch, but there's also beauty in the idea that it's somewhat of a ceremony to wear the tuna. Wearing the SLA041 is like breaking out the best china for a very specific meal. 

The Trifecta

When it comes to this trilogy, I can't predict there's anything left unanswered: A new material, a leading movement, and a dial color that's loved by many make this trio incredibly attractive. These watches are executed at just about the highest level they can be within the operational limits of Seiko. The only thing I'd change? That more than 1,100 models are produced. 

Pricing is as follows: $6,300 (SLA037), $6,800 (SLA039), $4,500 (SLA041). The watches are currently being released in a staggered fashion with drops in June, July, and August 2020, respectively. Each model is limited to 1,100 examples and will be sold through select authorized dealers as well as Seiko boutiques. Find out more about the 55th anniversary trio here. 

Norqain is a relatively new brand, having come into existence in 2018 as the brainchild of Ben Küffer, a young entrepreneur whose father, Marc Küffer, has been active in the Swiss watch industry for over 45 years and who was formerly CEO of Roventa Henex SA, a large manufacturing and design concern serving the Swiss watch industry, and which is located in Bienne, Switzerland. (He was also on the board of the Federation Of The Swiss Watch Industry for many years). The company also counts among its board members Ted Schneider, whose family owned Breitling for nearly 40 years prior to its sale. Today, they've announced their first watch made as a result of their eagerly-watched partnership with Kenissi, which makes movements used by Tudor as well as Chanel – the Independence 20 Limited Edition.

While the company is a very young one, the presence of industry leaders like Schneider and Küffer sets them apart from many other watch start-ups, which may have to take many years to accumulate the experience and the range of connections within the industry which Norqain's management represents. More or less at the same time that the company debuted, it also announced the alliance with Kenissi, whose production of Tudor's in-house calibers are now represented in the majority of Tudor's catalogue (one notable exception being the chronograph caliber MT5813, which is a modified version of the Breitling B01 and which has a free-sprung, adjustable mass balance and silicon balance spring). The announcement that the company would be breaking ground on a new factory to produce movements ran in the Swiss newspaper Le Temps in November of 2018, although the company has been manufacturing movements for Tudor since the launch of the first in-house Tudor calibers in 2015, with the release of the caliber MT5621 in the Tudor North Flag. In January of 2019, Le Temps also reported that Chanel had taken a 20 percent stake in the company (Kenissi makes the Chanel caliber 12.1, which can be found in the J12, as Cara Barrett reported in 2019) and that the Geneva-based firm would be opening a new facility in Le Locle code-named, rather enticingly, Project Gemini.

As the FHH Journal reported in February of this year, Breitling's Jean-Paul Girardin, who "oversaw the development of Breitling's manufacturing capacities" moved to Kenissi in 2017 after the sale of Breitling. 

I mention all this partly because it illustrates the importance of often, to the consumer at least, invisible developments which occur in the Swiss watch industry and which can make understanding it something of a mystery even to people in the business (Le Temps wrote that the name Kenissi, "even among insiders, hardly means anything to anyone"), but also because it shows just how serious an undertaking Norqain really is. When the brand launched in 2018, it already announced that it would collaborate with Kenissi on watches which would use unique movements; these would be the proprietary calibers NN20/1 and GMT NN20/2, both with a 70-hour power reserve. At launch, the company made use of Sellita and ETA movements, in very high-quality cases and at surprisingly low prices (the Freedom 60 automatic is $2,060), and the firm clearly intended to establish itself from the get-go as a maker of high-value, affordable, versatile watches. The new movements up the ante in a number of respects and, despite their greater exclusivity, Norqain is still able to offer them at very competitive prices. The Independence 20 is $2,990 on a steel bracelet and $2,840 on a strap.

The Independence 20 is a somewhat large but pretty classically styled watch, which gives an immediate impression in the hand and on the wrist of a level of quality in construction and finish which is quite unusual in a watch at this price point. The dial has an interesting texture to it – "Scratched Forest Green" is how Norqain describes it, and it gives an additional impression of depth and subtlety without calling so much attention to itself that it takes away from the harmony of the overall design. There are applied markers and faceted hands – both with enough Super-LumiNova to make nocturnal visibility easy – and the crown guards are balanced by a flange on the opposite side of the case that carries a steel plaque engraved with the brand's name (and, I would imagine, you can always have it engraved with something more personal as well.) 

The case is 42mm in diameter but not excessively thick, at 11.8mm, and Norqain has helpfully provided lug width (22mm) and lug-to-lug distance (48.75mm, this is a useful measurement to have, and kudos to Norqain for providing it – as many readers have pointed out, it's a quite useful piece of information and almost never provided in press materials. I wish more brands would provide it up front!). As we've already mentioned, the construction of the watch is quite a bit more complex than you generally find in a sub-$3,000 watch, and the case sports details such as milled recesses in the lugs, and nicely beveled and polished edges to both the nameplate and the crown guards; the large, easily-grasped crown is very well machined as well. You get 100 meters' water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a sapphire box-type crystal up front and sapphire in the back as well. 

Which lets you take a gander at the movement.

The caliber NN20/1 will immediately look familiar to anyone who's spent any time looking at Tudor's Kenissi-made movements such as the caliber MT5621 in the North Flag. The most obvious similarity is the balance bridge, which provides a more rigid platform for the balance and which is used extensively by both Rolex and Tudor, for that reason. The resemblance to the MT5621 is no surprise – the general layout is a proven formula and provides excellent performance, with the NN20/1 earning a chronometer rating from the COSC. There are some technical differences – the NN20/1 runs in 27 jewels versus 28 for the MT5621, and the NN20/1 appears to have a standard Nivarox-type balance spring rather than the silicon spring found in the MT5621. I suspect the single-ruby reduction in jeweling might have to do with the absence of the power reserve found in the MT5621, in the caliber NN20/1. Both movements share a free-sprung, adjustable mass balance. 

Oh, and ye who loathe in the depths of your soul the date window, hearken unto me and hear my words, and rejoice for lo, I say unto you, the Independence 20 ain't got one.

The Norquain Independence 20 comes in at a slight price advantage over the entry price point at Tudor for a watch with the caliber MT5621 (that's the Tudor Glamour Double Date, which on a strap, retails for $3,300). At $2,840 for the Norqain, it is hard to avoid feeling, if your tastes align with the design and you find value in a more exclusive movement, that you are getting something of a bargain. Off the top of my head, I think you might find some roughly similar values in terms of offerings from Seiko in the Presage and Prospex lines, but the Independence 20 comes with not only a very well executed set of externals, but also a very interesting movement with a fascinating story behind it that illustrates both the ambitiousness of the brand and the seriousness of its founders. In these uncertain times, there is a lot of attraction to be found in a new brand that has steady hands at the helm and is very clearly planning on playing a long game.

Writing about watches for a couple of decades (or more) can incline one to be cynical, but I am kind of rooting for these guys. They don't appear to especially need it – there are some big guns and some serious financial backing behind Norqain – but the Independence 20, in particular, seems to be a serious enthusiast play (c'mon, they left out the date window). For a wonder, the management powerhouses behind the company seem to have decided to put their clout to use to actually create value for the consumer, which certainly doesn't happen every day and which also is getting harder and harder (and harder) to find at this price point. In other words, it gives every appearance of being, dare I say it, a passion project. It's a cool watch with a performance-oriented movement and, if it's a sign of the future direction of the company, they ought to find smoother sailing than most, especially nowadays when smooth sailing is in very short supply. 

The Norqain Independence 20 Limited Edition With Scratched Forest Green Dial: case, 316L stainless steel, 100 meters water resistance with screw-down crown; box sapphire crystal and sapphire crystal caseback; stainless steel bezel; dimensions 42mm diameter / 11.8mm thickness / 22mm lug width / 48.75mm lug to lug. Dial, Scratched Forest Green, with hand-applied beveled and polished indexes; hands and markers treated with Super-LumiNova. Movement, Norqain caliber NN20/1, running at 28,800 vph in 27 jewels; 70-hour power reserve; flat balance spring with freesprung, adjustable mass balance. Price: on a black Barenia leather strap, $2,840; on a steel bracelet with folding clasp, $2,990. Currently available; for more info visit Norqain.com.

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, SoundCloud, Google Play and Spotify). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us what topics you'd like us to chat about (or email thegreynato@gmail.com).

It’s the end of the month, so it must be time for another TGN Q+A episode! A huge thanks to everyone who sent in a voice memo question. We get into everything from straps to cameras, how to care for a NATO, naming your watch after a problematic historical figure, Shadow Divers, "what ifs," and a whole lot more. 

One quick note to those reading this in advance of listening: While we have loved making weekly episodes since March, the time has come to rebalance the schedule, and we're going to move to a format that will be three episodes per month. Thus, starting with the next new episode on August 13, we’ll be going back to an every-other-week format, but we're going to continue doing a monthly Q+A that will come as a surprise drop sometime towards the end of each month (so be sure to send in your questions and subscribe to the feed!). 

A huge thanks to all of you who have been enjoying the weekly episodes and sending in your support. We think this new format is a good middle ground that ensures that TGN remains the best show possible. Just press play, and thanks so much for listening! 

Show Notes...

07:11
Festool

8:40
Dewalt stacking tool storage

11:50
Jason’s "Safarni"

12:30
James' Doxa 50th Anni Professional

13:30
Garmin Outage

24:05
Otto Frei

27:03
Roldorf & Co

27:50
UTEwatchco

30:00
Garmin Instinct

38:30
Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur

47:50
Ricoh GRIII

55:00
Shadow Divers

1:27:10
"Shadow Diver on the U869 Narrated by John Chatterton"

1:30:55
"Crossing the deserts of Kazakhstan"

The Rolex Explorer 14270 holds an interesting place in horological history. Caught somewhere in wristwatch purgatory – not old enough to be vintage, and not new enough to be cool – it is a vastly under-appreciated timepiece in collecting circles, but one with a serious cult following amongst enthusiasts. It has the rare distinction of being, quite likely, the very first modern Rolex sports watch, ushering in a new era of watchmaking and watch design for the brand. The Rolex Explorer 14270 is a watch that is so simple in its execution that people just don't talk about it. Well, with the 30th anniversary of its release having just passed, it is time to put the spotlight on this sleeping giant. 

The Rolex Explorer, as an entire line, certainly needs no introduction, but let's give it one anyway. Historically speaking, it embodies the brand's gift for myth-making and marketing. It was the 1953 Mt. Everest expedition which led to its creation. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay took with them a white Rolex Oyster Perpetual as they ascended Everest's peak, a notoriously onerous and life-risking undertaking. Of course, the inclusion of a Rolex watch on that trip was not happenstance, but rather a purposeful branding exercise by Rolex to show just what the Oyster case was capable of. The white Rolex Oyster Perpetual Superlative Chronometer not only partook in the adventure, but returned home to tell the tale – which it has done for nearly 70 years since. This masterclass in brand building by Rolex resulted in the creation of a 36mm watch, similar in essence to the watch which summited Everest, but bearing the now-iconic name, "Explorer." 

It was also in 1953 that the Explorer reference 6350 was released. While not technically the first Explorer, it is the first to feature the Explorer name on the dial. Featuring Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9, a 36mm case size, and black dial, this watch was the foundation for the Explorer design language going forward. The 6350 has become known as the "honeycomb" due to the dial pattern which looks – you guessed it – like a honeycomb. This is an exceedingly rare watch, as it was produced for just about one year before giving way to the reference 6610 in 1954. That watch sported a matte black dial, gilt numerals, and a very familiar dial layout. The 6610 was the precursor to the longstanding 1016 which was then released in 1963. The 1016 lived a long enough production life – 27 years to be exact – to see a host of variations on its overall design. From the Albino dial, to the Space-Dweller, the stretch bracelet, the gilt underline, and the solid link bracelet, each one of these variations represents the elements that make watch collecting so endlessly fascinating.

The 1016 played an integral role in the legend of the Explorer. It gained considerable fame in literary circles, being a watch chosen by such major figures as Ian Fleming, William Gibson, and HODINKEE fan-favorite, Gary Shteyngart. The 1016 expanded the Explorer mythos and provided the foundation for all future Explorers. The 3-6-9 dial configuration, the triangular marker at twelve, the rectangular markers filling out every other hour, the Mercedes handset, and the "Explorer" mark were all 1016 staples that helped the little watch become a horological behemoth. But all things come to an end, and in 1989 (although the exact date is a little fuzzy), the 1016 gave way to the next generation.

Rebirth Of The Explorer

Enter the Rolex Explorer 14270, a watch that at one time was referred to as having "no horological interest whatsoever" by watch writer Walt Odets and the first Rolex ever purchased by Ben Clymer. The 14270 was released at the Basel Fair in 1989 and put Rolex at the cross-section of sport and luxury. The classic iteration of the tool watch was slowly being phased out as Rolex started integrating, little by little, various higher-end manufacturing techniques into their watches. It was at this time as well that other iconic tool watches were seeing design code changes. The Rolex Submariner, long-reigning king of the tool watch, saw its matte dial replaced with a glossy one and its painted markers replaced with applied markers with white-gold surrounds. The 1980s were a time of change in a post-quartz-crisis world, as well as one of reinvention and forward-thinking. The vintage design trend was a long way off, and in any event, Rolex very rarely looks backwards.

So what was the reaction to Rolex taking its most quintessential non-dive sports watch and making so many relatively subtle but fundamental design changes? When Rolex released the 14270, it was received with a certain amount of surprise by Rolex customers. Functionally the new watch was the same as its predecessor, but the dial had been given a pretty dramatic update and, of course, a new movement as well. For the next 11 years, Rolex continued to experiment with and refine various aspects of the design (and you could argue that they're still doing that today).

But time heals all wounds, and the novelty has more than worn off. So much so that the Rolex Explorer 14270 is often considered to be a boring watch to the casual observer. As such, it is something of a sleeper in the collecting world. You've seen one, you've seen them all, right? Wrong. This sly fox of a watch has enough variations within its single reference to make it not only highly interesting, but also potentially quite collectible. There is always another door set to open in the world of horological intrigue. The first-ever modern Rolex, the 14270, might well be poised at the brink of icon status. 

So let's dive into every nook and cranny of this watch and uncover some of its hidden details.

What's In A Name?

Studying the microscopic details of a single watch can prove a little bit confusing. One way to deal with that confusion is to create naming conventions to simplify the complexities. In the case of the Explorer 14270, it was not hard to come up with names to signify each of the four main variations of the watch which existed throughout its run, from approximately 1989 until 2001. In fact, the first name was already spoken for.  

Those are, the "Blackout," the "T-Swiss," the "Swiss Only," and the "Swiss Made." Each of these variants is named for specific variations on the dials themselves. In 14270 lore, the dial is where you see the most obvious changes to the watch over time, and so it only makes sense to demarcate them in this way.

Understanding Serial Ranges And Production Runs

Series Letter And Corresponding Year

Approximate Serial Range:

E series: 1990 

X series: 1991 

N series: 1991 

C series: 1992 

S series:  1993 

W series: 1994 

T series:  1996 

U series: 1997 

A series: 1998 

P series: 2000 

In terms of structure, we will first break the watch down into four main categories, representing its production timeline. There are four main variations which carry the 14270 through its production run and, as discussed above, each one will be given a shorthand name to aid in its identification. 

From about 1989 - 1991, there was the "Blackout"; from 1991 - 1998, the "T-Swiss"; from 1998 - 99, the transitional "Swiss Only"; and from 1999 until the end of production in 2001, the "Swiss Made" dial variant. There are a few gray areas and some overlap, but for the most part, these represent the main subsets within the 14270 line. We will examine the watch on the basis of its aesthetics, looking at the dial, the case, the bracelet, and the clasp, as well as on its performance – looking, of course, at the movement.

As I said, it is hard to find a way to differentiate between watches that belong to the same general reference. Simply naming the watches doesn't tell the whole story. The closest thing to an easy solution is to refer to the serial numbers etched into the case of the watch. Each serial begins with a specific identifying letter, and that letter gives us an idea as to which year that watch was produced. While the corresponding years and serial numbers are accurate, and fairly exact, this is not the sort of information which Rolex makes known to the public. Rather, the serial range and year information is the result of collector-compiled data, obtained over the course of many years. With the Explorer 14270, there are 10 serial ranges as indicated above. The E and X series are of the earliest known references of the Explorer 14270 line. It is in the late-E and early-X series that we get the rare and coveted "Blackout" Explorer.

In the N through the S series, we see examples of what has been called the "Frozen" dial Explorer (a type of aging to the black lacquer dial), but more on that later. The W series, produced from 1994-1996, brings the transition from a lug hole case to no lug hole case (around 1994). T and U series, produced from 1996-98 represent the tail end of tritium dial Explorers, this time featuring flip-lock clasps – don't worry, we will talk more about the clasps. 

Around 1998-99 came the introduction of the transitional "Swiss Only" dials in U, and A series. The "Swiss Only" represented the use of LumiNova for the luminous material on the dial and a transition away from the use of tritium. Tritium dials were phased out for LumiNova starting around 1998, and Rolex changed the print at the bottom of the dial from the old "Swiss T>25" to just "Swiss."

These "Swiss Only" dials were used for only a brief period during late U and A series watches before Rolex adopted Super-LumiNova for their luminous compound, changing the dial text to "Swiss Made." "A" series variants also bore the "Swiss Made" text at the bottom of the dial signifying the change from LumiNova to Super-LumiNova. The P serial is the final reference 14270 and it, too, bears the "Swiss Made" text on the dial and a Super-LumiNova treatment.

Technical Specifications

Each variant of the 14270 maintains the classic 36mm sizing. In true modern form, every version of this watch sports a glossy black lacquer dial, with applied markers and numerals with white-gold surrounds. Each dial displays the Explorer wordmark beneath the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Logo, with the Superlative Chronometer text displayed at the bottom portion of the dial. Every watch boasts folded or hollow end-link bracelets, a sapphire crystal, and features a once-modern Rolex Caliber 3000 movement – an upgrade over the 1570 used in the preceding 1016.

The Caliber 3000 movement contains a 48-hour power reserve, 27 jewels, and beats at 4Hz. It is a bi-directional automatic winding movement with a central rotor and hacking seconds. The movement diameter is 28.5mm. It was the last Rolex movement to not feature a Breguet overcoil for the hairspring. Despite the choice of a flat hairspring, the Caliber 3000 achieved chronometer certification, with accuracy of +4/-6 seconds per day. The hairspring does not have a regulator; instead, the balance has Rolex Microstella timing weights.

Rolex utilized a Kif shock protection system in the watch, as this was before the age where they produced (read: acquired) all manufacturing in-house. The Kif system was an alternative to the popular Incabloc shock system. Looking at the movement, the Kif system is recognizable by its golden three-leaf or four-leaf clover-shaped spring clip around a ruby at the top of the balance.

Rolex is nothing if not an innovator. Over the course of its 11-year production run, the 14270 saw a host of changes, improvements, tweaks, and adjustments. Many of these would be utterly imperceptible to the untrained eye, but by looking a little bit more closely, surprises abound.  

Blackout: 1989 -1991

The Explorer 14270 "Blackout" is a nickname given for a very obvious and appropriate reason. The numerals on the dial are blacked-out, as opposed to later variants where they were filled with white paint. Of all the 14270 variants produced, this model stands as the most coveted and collectible. The watch itself was produced in very low numbers and only found in late-E and early-X serial numbers. The "Blackout" Explorers are considered some of the rarest Rolexes of the last thirty years (especially E series), and were said to have been received poorly on release. Go figure. 

The story goes that the first batches of the 14270 Explorer left the Rolex factory with a gloss dial that had its 3-6-9 Arabic hour numerals filled in with black enamel. This was likely the original design for the new Explorer before Rolex decided that the blacked-out numerals did not provide enough legibility on the dial.  Ref. 14270 Explorers with the black enamel-filled 3-6-9 hour markers all seem to have serial numbers corresponding to production years 1990 and 1991. The earliest dials appear to have printing stamped in silver. But, of course, it is not so simple. Throughout the run of the "Blackout," two different types of silver printing were used: "Flat" and "Metallic." The flat paint has a more muted tone, while the metallic gives off more of a glimmer effect. As the production of the watch wore on, and as Rolex transitioned into the X series, they began to run out of the silver-print dials, so they switched to using the white-print dials from normal 14270 models, but still with applied blacked-out 3-6-9 indices.

Some of the earliest E series silver-print 14270 "Blackouts" sport a special seconds hand with the lume dot further out than standard production models. Sometime around this X series transition, Rolex stopped production of the special seconds hands and switched to normal 14270 seconds hands with the lume dot in its customary location. The final X series "Blackout" models would only have the black 3-6-9 numerals and none of the special parts from the early "Blackout" variants (silver-print dial, special seconds hand, etc.). 

Any "Blackout" Explorers sent back to Rolex for servicing or refurbishing over the years would have likely had their parts replaced with the standard parts, which would explain seeing a silver-print or metallic print dial with a standard 14270 seconds hand. Rarer examples still of this watch can be found stamped Tiffany & Co. on the dial. These "Blackout" Tiffany variants are among the rarest on the market today.

T-Swiss: 1991 -1998

The "T-Swiss" Explorer 14270 is the longest-running variant in the reference. It is marked by tritium lume, white paint-filled numerals, and a gloss black dial, and it has come to represent the very essence of the 14270. This is also the watch with the most variety within its own variant. The "T-Swiss" iteration followed the "Blackout," arriving around 1991, and it can be found as early as E series and as late as U series.

Like the "Blackout, this watch featured drilled lug holes until about 1994, when the case design was changed to plain lugs (i.e. no lug holes). All versions boast tritium-filled lume on the dial. The T-Swiss 14270 Explorers with tritium lume saw the most changes of any iteration of the watch. These changes occurred in the clasp, dial, and lugs. Let's take a look at the exact differences. 

First, the dial. There is not a clear production timeline for this watch, but it is likely that it was produced concurrently with the "Blackout" model. Hallmarks for this watch are white text, in the typical Rolex serif design, white paint-filled numerals, and the "T < 25" text beneath six o'clock. As with the "Blackout," there are even some Tiffany-stamped variants.  

Next was the case, which for the first four to five years of production bore lug holes which – ask anyone – makes changing a strap far easier. Now, there is a rare iteration of the late U series which bore the "T-Swiss" moniker but had LumiNova-filled numerals. These are referred to as "Tritinova" dials in some circles. Rumor has it that despite discontinuing the use of tritium, Rolex utilized LumiNova filled markers on a dial marked "T < 25" because they had excess stock of those dials. Who knows if this is 100% true, but we do know that such variants do, in fact, exist. As they used to say in the Old West, when the legend becomes the fact, print the legend. In fact, all indications are that a manufacturing faux pas by Rolex caused this rare and unique dial variant. 

The E-T series watches featured the single Oyster clasp, before switching to the flip-lock clasp (around 1996). Flip-lock clasps on non-dive Rolex watches were different in that they were smaller due to the absence of the dive extension, but they still provided that extra level of protection.

Note as well that a C series "T-Swiss" dial variant was produced around 1992. This is especially interesting because, while there are records of the production of this variant, these stand as the hardest serial range to find across the entire 14270 line. If you happen to come across a C-Series Explorer, consider your self extremely lucky. 

Swiss Only: 1998-99

Now we arrive at what has come to be known as a transitional model in the 14270 saga. Many in the Rolex world recognize that dials bearing the "Swiss" moniker generally represent service dials. In this case, the "Swiss Only" dial represents the shift from the use of Tritium to LumiNova. Granted, there is probably a bit of crossover between this variant and the aforementioned "Tritinova" models, but such is the case in Rolex mythology. The "Swiss Only" model had the shortest run of all 14270 iterations and can be found in U and some A series models. It officially marked the end of the Tritium-dial Explorer and the transition to non-radioactive LumiNova. 

This variant is considered to be a transitional model because it overlaps the tritium models and precedes the "Swiss Made" Super-LumiNova models. This watch featured the 78790 flip-lock clasp with no variation to speak of in the clasp department throughout its short run. Unlike prior dial variations, all "Swiss Only " Explorers featured plain lugs, meaning there were no drilled lug holes – and thus, more challenging strap changes. 

All in all, the "Swiss Only" – like the "Blackout" – represents a very short production run compared to other variants produced. The "Swiss Only" dials are not, however, anywhere near as rare, nor do they command anywhere near the prices, that "Blackout" Explorers do at present. But the fact that they were produced for so short a time could mean that could change at any time.

Swiss Made: 1999-2001

The final stop in the ever-evolving train that is the 14270 Explorer is the "Swiss Made" dial variant. All roads lead here, and each evolution of the design, and every tweak of the look and feel, was to get to this place. All future Explorers look back to this singular design as the finished realization for what a modern Rolex Explorer would be and, of course, what it would become. The "Swiss Made" Explorer 14270 exists in the A series and the P series, the last of the reference.

The "Swiss Made" Explorers represent nothing more than Super-LumiNova-filled lume, but in many ways, they are the epitome of a modern Rolex sports watch. It boasts a secure clasp system, a lume treatment that doesn't patina, and it will look as new 50 years from now as it did on day one.

This variant marked the final run of the 14270 Explorer and had a roughly three-year production span. The watch is effectively identical, in terms of the dial, to its successor, the 114270. (The only difference between them is the movement and the use of solid end-links in the 114270). This variant features the 78790 flip-lock clasp. All "Swiss Made" Explorers feature plain lugs. Be aware that many Explorer references are marked "Swiss Made" but have the older-style Oyster clasp. Don't be fooled by these: This is because the service dials Rolex used on the 14270 are marked "Swiss Made."

Font and Typeface Design

I admit I am an absolute sucker for typeface design. Part the allure of watches for me is the style of font on the dial. In the case of Rolex, their pre-millenium offerings do not disappoint. As it pertains to the Explorer 14270, there is just enough variation in fonts from the reference's inception through its retirement to provide intrigue for a font-o-phile like myself. Let's look at some of the differences.

Top-Half Of The Dial

Here we have the "Blackout" Explorer with the silver printing. The dial features a thinner typeface for the writing and thin long lines for the individual points of the Rolex coronet with defined circular tops. In the case of the rare Tiffany-stamp "Blackout" Explorer, you can really see the difference and contrast between the white text of the Tiffany stamp and the silver printing on the rest of the dial. 

Now we look at a "T-Swiss" dial with white paint-filled numerals. Here you can see a slight variation in the look of the coronet. There are less defined circular tops, shorter lines, and a fatter bottom to the crown itself. We also get a variation on the appearance of the signature serif font style. This dial features a thicker, bolder text, which results in the R and P touching. Some early T-Swiss Models exhibited a slight variation to the letter S in Oyster which can be referred to as the "Slanted S." The Rolex logo itself is much thicker on this variant.

Moving to the "Swiss Only" dial, there are some changes that make this one stand out as the transitional model that it is. We might go ahead and nickname this the "Skinny Dial" Explorer for its use of thinner letters. Here we see more variation in the coronet, which has a smaller "mouth," longer points, and a return to defined circular tops. The font remains thick, but everything is a bit more compact in appearance, like the R in Rolex. Some of the main differentiators for the "Swiss Only" dial variant are a skinny "O" in Explorer and a skinny "A" in Perpetual. The S returns to normal on this variant.

The "Swiss Made" sees the return to a thinner typeface and coronet with long thin lines and pronounced circular tops. The thin "O" is gone as is the thin A, with a return to a familiar typesetting. As for the Explorer logo, the serifs are a little less pronounced (see E and R), a typeface design which carries into more modern references such as the 114270 and 214270 Explorers.

There are other type-setting variations which run through each 14270 example, like the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified text. The "Blackout" has the smallest text size of the litter, with short (in terms of height) typesetting. The others are fairly similar, with the "Swiss Made" having the thickest font of all variants.

3-6-9 Variations

Just as there were differences in the appearance of the dial font and typesetting, so too were there differences in the appearance of the Arabic numeral set across the four 14270 dial variants. Let's dive a bit deeper into exactly what those changes were.

As we know, the "Blackout" numerals are filled with black enamel. This results in the numerals having a fatter appearance due to the absence of white paint. The holes in 6 and 9 are a rectangular shape. The serifs or ends of the numerals all appear to have a sharp angular design to them. 

The "T-Swiss" dials saw the introduction of white painted numerals. The white paint brought more definition to the numerals, making them present a bit thinner. Notice the larger openings for the 6 and 9 which are more rounded. 

Fitting for its transitional nature – and "Skinny" dial – the "Swiss Only" dial also has the thinnest appearance of the numerals, in terms of white paint. Moreover, the ends of each numeral are shorter and more dramatically angled off than the preceding "T-Swiss" dial. The holes at 6 and 9 return to a more rectangular shape. 

The "Swiss Made" variant continues with the shorter more angular ends to the numerals. The most defining characteristic appears to be the white paint. This has the thickest application of the paint-filled numerals of any model and bears greater resemblance to the "Blackout" in that regard, as far as the look of the numerals themselves. This variant maintains rectangular holes at 6 and 9. 

Patina

Of course, not all variations can be planned. Some occur naturally, with age producing unique effects that can change a watch entirely. Forty years ago, these types of changes might have been referred to as damage, but today, we call them honest. Given that the Explorer 14270 only had tritium applied to the markers and not the numerals, the patination that occurs on these dials results in an interesting contrast whereby the numerals remain a stark white and the markers fade into a light creamy color. Most Explorer 14270 models of the tritium variety do not patina as harshly as, say, a Submariner or GMT-Master. The reason for the phenomenon is that, by the 1990s, Rolex had created a more stable way to apply the tritium lume within the white-gold hour markers, resulting in a far more graceful aging process.

"Frozen" Dial

It isn't only the markers that change with time, but the dial too. The gloss black of the lacquer dial in some cases produced what has come to be known as the "Frozen" dial. 

On early "T-Swiss" models, the black gloss lacquer dial would age in such a fashion as to exhibit something of a frozen or cracked look to it. This is different from a spider dial because the combination of the aging and the shine of the gloss dial surface gives the dial an ice-like effect.

Bracelets and Clasps

You know you're getting deep into a watch when you start zeroing in on clasp differences. Not normally a massive topic of interest, I know, but it is fascinating in a hyper-micro sense to look at how this watch evolved in such a short span of time. The clasp is especially interesting because it serves as one of the best indicators of a particular variant's age and uniqueness. (For more on the evolution of the Oyster bracelet, check out our 2017 In-Depth story.)

The Single Oyster Clasp: The 78350/60 serial bracelet clasp in use from 1989 - 1996

The single Oyster clasp represents a long-standing tradition in Rolex lore. Dating back to the 1960s and earlier, this was a staple of the Explorer line. At the beginning of the 14270's production run, the watch bore a 78350/60 serial bracelet clasp. Unique identifiers for this bracelet style are the oyster-style links and the single stamped oyster clasp. The clasp is rectangular with the embossed oyster in the center portion. This was the clasp used on the watch for much of its early production from 1989 to 1996. 

"Heavy Duty" Diver Clasp: The rare 93150 dive extension clasp appears in early E series around 1991

Here we get the first unique and interesting clasp production in the Explorer 14270, and one that hardly fits the watch on a spiritual or technical level. Certain Explorers are known to have left the factory with 93150 dive-style oyster bracelet clasp configurations. The main identifiers for these bracelets are the longer, thicker clasp, with the oyster bracelet links imprinted on it, with a folding double clasp and a diver's extension built-in. Some argue the legitimacy of the examples, claiming that they are simply a case of someone putting the wrong bracelet on the watch and re-selling it, but on the contrary, there is evidence to support that certain T series Explorers circa 1995-96 bore this clasp variant. 

This just goes to show that anything is possible in the land of Rolex. There are some who figure that this is the result of a few special orders placed for dive-style clasps on their Explorer watches, but the real story is far more pragmatic. 1996 is when we first see the Explorer (along with the Explorer II and GMT-Master II) transitioning to the flip-lock-style clasp. Around 1995 – and as early as 1991, in some cases – Rolex was testing the idea of improving upon the tried and true standard Oyster clasp. The manifestation of this test was shipping some Explorer 14270 models with the 93150-style clasp affixed. Around the same time, you will see similar examples within the Explorer II range as well. There are warranty papers for E and T series Explorers which show that 93150 clasps were fitted to the 14270 by Rolex and shipped that way from the factory.

Oyster Flip-Lock Clasp: The 78790A serial flip-lock clasp in use from 1996 - 2001

Beginning in 1996, Rolex began utilizing the 78790A clasp system on the Explorer – the same that can be seen on the Explorer II and GMT-Master II models of the time. These clasps are more akin to the aforementioned dive-style bracelet; however, the clasp is significantly smaller and thinner.

Like the dive-style clasp, the 78790A bore a flip-lock clasp mechanism, making the watch that much more secure on wrist. Moving into present day, the Explorer reference 214270 still uses a flip-lock clasp system, albeit in a far more modern variety. While in practice, the 78790A clasp system is virtually identical to modern Rolex sports models, it is different in almost every other way. Current production models are not only "beefier" in presentation, but also decidedly more robust in fit and finish. Adding to the Rolex tradition of over-engineering, the present-day clasp system also includes a micro-adjustment system built into the clasp itself. Taking 20 years' worth of steps back, the flip-lock clasp on the Explorer 14270 is yet another example of its status as the first modern Rolex sports watch.

No matter which style of clasp was used on the watch throughout its production, all variants of the Explorer 14270 came equipped with the 558B folded end-link, also known as a "hollow" end-link bracelet. Folded means that the end-links, i.e. the links that affix to the case between the lugs, are quite literally hollow, resulting in a less-than-secure fit to the case. Some say that this produces a sort of jangly rattle to the watch. I actually think it's more of a metallic tinkering sound, but I digress. While the watch may have seen a variety of clasps attached to the 558B end-link bracelet, the bracelet itself remained ever-consistent – despite the occasional appearance of a jubilee. If you are ever wondering which clasp system you have (aside from merely looking at it), the class serial is engraved into the underside of the bracelet itself. The 558B bracelets are not for everyone, but they certainly are of their time and are a sure indicator that you are holding a 14270 Explorer and not its successor, the 114270. 

Modern Times

It has been touched on a little bit to this point, but one cannot overstate the design influence that the Explorer 14270 has had on successive modern incarnations. The 114270 was the last of the 36mm Explorers. As noted, the P series was the final run in the 11-year production of the 14270. The K series was the next evolution, introduced in a brand new reference – the 114270. The extra "1" represented a solid end-link bracelet and a new movement – the Caliber 3130 – while also reading "Swiss Made" at the bottom of the dial. 

This gave way to the Explorer 214270, possibly the single greatest evolution of the Explorer in its history. The case was upsized from 36mm to 39mm, and the dial went from gloss back to matte. The watch is now known for having gone through two iterations: Mark I and II. The Mark I dial is known for its solid white-gold applied indices (sans white paint and non-lume-filled) and for having a notoriously short handset. Some say that Rolex merely used the hands from the 36mm models and brought them into the 39mm case. Needless to say, that watch was discontinued, and rumblings of its potential future collectibility ring in the air. The 214270 Mark II is the current offering from Rolex in the Explorer line. It, too, clocks in at 39mm, only now it more closely resembles the 14270. This is because the numerals are now fully lumed – a first for the watch since its modern introduction in 1989. For a seriously deep and comprehensive look at that watch, I highly suggest James Stacey's A Week on the Wrist with Explorer 214270. 

A Week on the Wrist: The Rolex Explorer Reference 214270

Want to learn more about the current Rolex Explorer?

Check out Jame Stacey's Week on the Wrist with the Explorer 214270 here. 

The 14270 is the standard-bearer when it comes to modern Rolex Explorers. It does not take an expert to see the lineage here and the consistency of design from its introduction through today. In many ways, the 14270 is under-appreciated and undervalued when looking at its position within the secondary market. It has had a profound influence on the Rolex product line. This influence stretches from the simplest Oyster Perpetual with 3-6-9 numerals all the way to the modern Air King. This is all to say that when you look at a modern Explorer today, you have the 14270 to thank.  

Collectibility

So does all this minutiae make the Explorer 14270 a hidden gem in the world of collecting? If anybody could predict these things, we would have seen a lot more Daytonas sold at retail in the 1970s and held onto for posterity. One of the hallmarks of vintage Rolex is how much the minutiae matters. This is something that isn't nearly as true with modern watches, with rare exceptions (I am looking at you, "small hand" Mark I Explorer 214270). The 14270, despite its positioning on the modern end of the Rolex spectrum, fits this mold. As we have seen, there is so much variation within the single reference that it plays more like a vintage than a modern watch. Speaking to the idea of collectibility, I got the chance to speak to a few collectors and dealers –  two Erics and a Gary – to gain their perspective on the 14270.

For Eric Ku, renowned collector, dealer, and owner of 10PastTen, the Explorer represents "the most perfect Rolex." He started collecting and working at a time when the 14270 was in regular production and noted that it was the "first Rolex I ever loved."  Eric said that the 14270 reference is relatively cheap for what it is, but with it, you get a little bit of vintage taste in a modern watch. Another interesting note, referenced earlier in this article but echoed by Eric, is the fact that – for the most part – the tritium on the 14270 just doesn't age. "A 14270 to a non-enthusiast still looks like a new Rolex," he says. 

Eric Wind, former HODINKEE contributor and owner of Wind Vintage, spoke to the idea of what constitutes a vintage watch, saying, "If you follow the 20-year timeline for what makes a watch vintage, this just hit that mark." He noted that neo-vintage watches have really appreciated in value, pointing to the market for Polar Explorer II 16570 reference models. Explorer 14270s have gone up 50% in many cases over the last year alone, he said, most notably unpolished examples but, like any Rolex, it is increasingly difficult to find unpolished examples. In looking at the future of the market for the 14270, Eric notes, "I believe the really great 14270s will be $10,000 soon." Only time will tell. 

The Explorer 14270 was famously featured on a Japanese television program called The Love Generation, making the watch, as Ku put it, the watch of the late '90s and early 2000s in Japan. Crossing a watch with pop culture almost always has an effect on overall collectibility and desirability. Said Wind, "I know a dealer who bought 30 of them from a U.S. retailer in 1996 and flew them to Japan. He sold out in two hours at a watch show."

It's not just those in the watch industry with strong opinions about the 14270. HODINKEE's own Secretary of Seconds or Minister of Minutes (depending on who you ask) Gary Shteyngart weighed in as well. "What if I bought one completely NOS, stickers on, had it pressure tested, and then made it my one and only watch for swimming, adventuring, and tuxedo-ing? The 1016 is prettier, but you spend too much time coddling and burping it like a newborn. The 14270 was meant for a life of mountain climbing and martini spills. It works its ass off without complaint much like Roger Smith who proudly sports one as his daily wearer." (In his episode of Talking Watches with Jack Forster, Roger Smith speaks about his Explorer, but he says it is roughly 13 or 14 years old at the time of the episode, in which case it might be a 114270).

In truth, the whole idea of collectibility, and what makes a watch desirable, is market dependent. No watch is immune from a market downturn, and the 14270 certainly experienced one of those. When Rolex released its successor, the 114270, it released a lot of them – effectively flooding the market. The result was a collapse in the marketplace of 14270s at the time, as the newer, more modern edition was readily available from ADs everywhere (a concept unheard of today). But it wouldn't be the watch's only brush with a fickle market.

The year 2010 saw the release of the next – and most dramatic – evolution to the Rolex Explorer line to date – an upsized 39mm watch, sending a clear signal that 36mm Explorers were a relic of a bygone era. The newly featured full white-gold applied numerals were reminiscent of a certain collectible Explorer of yore. Sound familiar? If you're thinking about the Blackout, you're right on. Indisputably the most collectible in the 14270 line, even it fell prey to the market's whims. With the new 214270 – again – being readily available in ADs at the time, the "Blackout" suffered quite a drop in price. 

So what about the 14270 and its collectibility going forward? Well, if we have learned anything, so much of this hobby is – for lack of a better word – random. With the 14270, we have a watch that represents so much to the idea of a modern Rolex, and a watch with enough of that good ole' minutiae to keep things interesting for years to come.  

Concluding Thoughts

The Explorer 14270 represents something entirely unique. It truly is the first modern Rolex. White-gold surrounds, gloss dial, sapphire crystal; these are all current staple traits of modern Rolex tool watches which effectively debuted with this very watch back in 1989. It was J.R.R. Tolkien who wrote that "moonlight drowns out all but the brightest stars." In this case, the Explorer 14270 may well be out of sight and mind, but it's simply too bright a star to be ignored. It is a testament to Rolex's fearlessness in shaking up the design of a core piece in its collection. Moving from the 1016 to 14270, the brand took a risk but also followed the playbook which has kept it on top all of these years. 

Just like the Bob Dylan documentary of the same name, they don't look back, only forward. The 14270 was a test case in many ways, constantly changed, tweaked, and updated through its entire run. For a look at the fully realized and finished product, one need only look to its successor, the 114270, or even its modern counterpart, the 214270. No matter, this watch represents a pivotal time in luxury watchmaking and more than deserves to wear the Explorer name. The next time you dismiss a watch out of hand, or follow the horological hive-mind, dig a little deeper. There is always something to be appreciated – especially when it comes to Rolex.

Editor's Note: A big thank you to Eric Wind, Eric Ku, and Gary Shteyngart for their contributions as well as the teams at Craft & Tailored, Analog Shift, and Bob's Watches for providing images for the story. 

Photography, Kasia Milton

It's Friday once again, which means it's time to get down and dirty with a host of interesting finds on the market this week. With the inclusion of a perpetual calendar chronograph from IWC and an Omega Chronostop, you're bound to get your fix, but unlike other weeks, we're putting the spotlight on some horological treasures that aren't intended for the wrist. Is it more difficult to justify the purchase of a Heuer running timer, or a Jaeger-LeCoultre globe, or even a Rolex wall clock? Maybe, but there's no denying their appeal, and the want this week is strong. 

IWC Da Vinci Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

If you genuinely consider the relationships you've developed with certain brands, and the potential reasoning behind them, you're bound to learn not only what you look for in a watch, but also who you are as a collector. In my eyes, those who focus their efforts on IWC have always stood out as interesting characters, and if you didn't already consider yourself one, this first piece might just push you over the edge. With a hefty helping of horological significance, and a design aging not unlike a fine wine, there's a lot to love here.

As the added line of text near the four o'clock position would indicate, this is no "ordinary" Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. That's right: This little number has a tourbillon at its heart, but it is still wound and set using one single crown in accordance with the original and masterful Kurt Klaus design. Only 200 examples of this grand complication were ever produced, and in comparison to other similarly equipped pieces of the same era, the IWC trades for significantly less, making it quite the bargain of haute horology. It's also incredibly wearable at 39mm across, much like other IWCs of the same vintage. 

Just to be very clear, I'm aware of just how much $26,000 is and the immense privilege that goes along with being able to throw that sort of cash around at will, but this is most definitely a "deal" for the experienced watch collector. Are we talking about a contemporarily styled piece that's on everyone's hit list? No, though we're definitely not talking about a fad-derived novelty that's lost its luster, and instead, a classically styled work of ultra-complicated art. As you likely already know, the same money won't put a host of hot, time-only pieces on your wrist lately — let alone the complicated fare — hence my interest in this one. The only thing you'd have to consider would be servicing costs down the road, but that's a bridge you'll have to cross with any hilariously functional timepiece.

Luxury Bazaar is offering this outstanding IWC on their site. As mentioned, it's been priced at $25,995.

Omega Chronostop Ref. ST 145.009

Every once in a while, an attractive Omega Chronostop will make itself known, and I simply can't help but point friends in its direction. Despite the fact that this watch played a noteworthy role in introducing me to vintage watches, it is an objectively good reference and a great go-to for anyone looking to dip their toes into this realm of collecting. While browsing through the very forum where you'd expect to find such a watch listed, I came across this example of the sixty-second timer. After reviewing the photos, you'll surely see why this just couldn't be left out. 

Omega rolled out the Chronostop in 1966 and earned much praise for its efforts in little time. In 1967, the design won the Swiss Watchmaking Federation's Honor Prize for chronographs and sport watches. In 1968, it took home the Industrial Aesthetics prize at the Utrecht Spring Fair, and it was then selected as the official Omega timer of the Olympics in Mexico. All this to say, the stripped-down, minimal chronograph was a hit, and it continues to be one thanks to its relative accessibility, high-grade Cal. 865 movement, and range of colorful variants.

This particular example of the reference left the factory with a subdued, black dial, though its normalcy is made up for by the remarkable condition in which it's being offered. Whenever I come across a great Chronostop, I deem it's the best I've seen, but the universe seems to have a habit of continually showing me better examples. I might've said it last time, but I can now confidently say that this is certainly the best I've seen, with a perfect dial, near-perfect case, and the original bracelet still attached. 

A seller on the Omega Forum is offering this piece from their collection. It's been priced to sell at €1,300, and I think you'll be hard-pressed to find a more interesting watch in this bracket. 

Heuer Runner Ref. 580

Having discussed two watches so far, I thought we'd spice things up this week through a look at some horological objects of desire that won't end up on your wrist. The first of which is a sporting timer from Heuer, but one which you might not already be familiar with. In objective terms, it's something that no one needs and will serve no real purpose in your daily life, but it's incredibly cool and guaranteed to pique the interest of Heuer-focused horophiles.

The Runner always struck me as one of the more fascinating timing devices produced by Heuer, as unlike the rest, it's a fob watch of sorts. Attached to the case is a plastic clip, allowing for the Runner to be attached to one's shirt prior to jogging or sprinting a set distance. Additionally, it's distinguished by the presence of a toggle switch on the side of its case, allowing the user to set the distance they intend to run. All of this adds up to a device that's especially useful for the specific application of timing running, speaking to Heuer's commitment to the precision timing of sports in years past. 

This one looks to have never seen the light of day since having left the factory, and while I'm sure the next owner is sure to appreciate this, it's not exactly uncommon. After doing a quick scrape of eBay, it's easy to see that there are quite a few near new old stock timing instruments from Heuer up for grabs, suggesting less than ideal sales of these countless devices over the years. Nevertheless, its black, red, and white dial is a sight to see, and its unique functionality ought to bring someone joy. Given the infrequency with which these surface, you might want to give this one a closer look. 

An eBay seller in Oklahoma City has this Heuer listed in an auction that'll come to a close on Saturday evening. At the time of publishing, the high bid stands at $200. 

Rolex Wall Chronometer

It's always exciting to chance upon a familiar face with a twist, suggesting that there is indeed more out there that's yet to be discovered. However, if you're not careful — and your finances will so fortunately allow it — you'll develop an insatiable taste for the rare and unusual after the acquisition of a few such pieces. Collectors who focus and invest heavily in double-signed timepieces are a great example, as they're exclusively after what many deem to be "next-level" examples of already tremendously important watches, and they will settle for no less. I've witnessed it first-hand, but I would argue that there's a more compelling way to go about that approach than paying up for a host of modern Pateks. With that in mind, let me show you what I'm talking about. 

In case you couldn't already tell, you're looking at a Rolex wall clock. These are usually seen with the Pan Am logo gracing their dial, but this example proudly displays the name of the once-authorized dealer Busch & Sons Jewelers. Given the shape of the letters and tone of the fill color, this Texan retailer's logo looks to have been hand-painted on the dial, differentiating it from the already top-tier collectible that is the Pan Am variant. We're essentially talking about an obscure version of an already obscure product in hand-executed form, which doesn't sound like the sort of thing to be going unnoticed, if you ask me. 

The example in question and up for grabs would appear to be extremely clean, with a seemingly flawless dial. To be fair, I haven't seen a great deal of these clocks with dinged up, dirty dials, but I've gotta give credit where credit is due, and a well-preserved clock is exactly what it sounds like. Like other examples I've come across, this one was produced in Ohio, though not by Hanover. Instead, you'll find the name of the Ohio Advertising Display Co. on its rear, which I'd wager is associated with Hanover in some way. I'll be looking into this one a bit more, so be sure to check out the comments for any further findings. 

You'll find this wall clock included in the latest online sale at Christie's. They've set the estimate at $6,000 – $9,000. At the time of publishing, the high bid stands at $6,000. Hit the link for more info and to explore the rest of the catalog.

Jaeger LeCoultre Mappemonde Ref. 163

Should you have enjoyed the aforementioned wall chronometer, you're bound to like how we're wrapping things up for the week. My introduction to our last feature came a number of years back, by way of a dealer set-up at a watch and jewelry show in South Florida. Upon first glance at the orb-like device, I immediately needed to know more and found myself grilling an admittedly uninformed salesman. The natural progression was to research until the cows came home, revealing a complicated desk accessory for the person that's likely got it all. 

Though it's essentially a glowing globe – and there are no two ways about that – Jaeger-LeCoultre's Mappemonde has also got a few tricks up its sleeve which can be best seen on its base. Apart from its geographical functionality, this is also a working clock, indicating hours, minutes, and a second world-time display. Its world-time function might only yield approximate results after you've adjusted the globe to your desired location, but it's the only globe touting a world-time complication that I know of, and that's gotta count for something. 

Being a Jaeger-LeCoultre of the 1930s, the Mappemonde is beautifully manufactured, with expertly crafted, Parisian paper gores overlaying the illuminated glass globe. This one has its original Bakelite and chrome base still intact, and it looks to still have quite legible numerals on its rotating discs, but I'd honestly still be interested even if it were in lesser shape. As you might've seen coming, these horological ornaments rarely ever surface, and for that reason, any offering is an occasion to take note of. I'd suggest getting some more photos but pursuing this one actively if it speaks to you. 

Christophe Auctions of London, England will be selling this Jaeger-LeCoultre in a sale taking place on August 4. Its estimate has been set at £2,000 – £3,000, but based on the past sale prices of Mappemondes, it'll likely go higher. Get the full scoop here. 

The ongoing pandemic has caused many businesses to shift to an online environment, with workers convening for meetings, coffee breaks, and even company happy hours within the context of a Zoom session. Everybody's had to adapt, so it's not completely surprising that we've seen online auctions, which have been around for some time, grow in prominence and set new records of their own. 

Earlier today in London, the 18-karat gold John Player Special ref. 6264 you see here sold for £1,215,000 including buyer's premium (or $1,545,723). In auctioning this watch, Sotheby's broke its own record for a watch sold in an online auction, the house says. But that's not all: This also marks the new record price for a Daytona John Player Special sold at auction, says Sotheby's, as well as the record for a wristwatch auctioned in the United Kingdom.

Nicknamed after the '70s-era John Player livery found on Lotus Formula One team cars, the Rolex John Player Special is one of the rarest and most desirable Rolex Daytona configurations one is likely to encounter. The ref. 6264 example we see here is the result of a number of converging degrees of rarity, and only a handful are known to exist. Of course, the majority of ref. 6264 Daytonas were produced in steel cases. According to Sotheby's, only ten are known to have been made in 18-karat gold; a fraction of those are outfitted with a Paul Newman dial in black. This is a mega watch for mega collectors, of course, but the price paid was also mega. The pre-sale estimate was just £320,000-650,000 / $400,000-800,000.

The Sotheby's sale was a single-lot online auction that ran for one week from July 24 to 31, attracting five bidders and 17 bids on the way to its record-breaking result. 

Logistically, this auction season has unfolded in unusual ways that couldn't have been predicted by anyone as recently as February. But if the recent record for an automatic Daytona set just three weeks ago and today's result can be said to serve as any kind of barometer, it seems that top-level Rolex prices are holding strong. Even in the midst of unprecedented times, records are still being set.

For more, visit Sotheby's.

Each week, our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.

The Failing Of War Photography – National Geographic

I've been an avid fan of National Geographic's photography for as long as I can remember, but Anastasia Taylor-Lind is someone who has, somehow, remained off my radar until now. This incredible podcast episode offers first-hand insight into the interesting life and photographic mission of Taylor-Lind, who made her way from growing up in a horse-drawn cart in the English countryside to taking pictures of world conflicts in an effort to tell unknown stories. But, ultimately, the real story at the core of all of this is one that's deeply personal and fascinating in ways both unexpected and relatable. I've already listened to the episode twice.

– Stephen Pulvirent, Manager of Editorial Products

The 1964 Olympics Certified A New Japan, In Steel And On The Screen – The New York Times

Writing about the Seiko 55th anniversary pieces this week sent me to a Japan I wish I'd been alive to see. In 1965, Seiko's first dive watch was released to a flourishing Japan. The dive watch is just a minuscule piece of a very larger story of a nation developing a distinctive aesthetic and design style in the '60s. A Seiko collector sent me this piece that highlights the Japan the rest of the world came to know at the 1964 Olympics, and boy what a time it was. Nostalgia plays an important role in Japanese culture, and after reading this piece and taking in these photos, it’s easy to see why.

– Cole Pennington, Editor

An Unprecedented Nintendo Leak Turns Into A Moral Dilemma For Archivists – The Verge

Do the words Ocarina of Time mean anything to you? If so, like me, you were probably raised in the '90s. Very few things are cemented in my memory more than playing video games with my older brothers, and The Verge's article on the recent leak of Nintendo Source code from some of the company's most beloved games transported me back to those carefree times. While the circumstances of the leak do call attention to the growing need to address digital intellectual property and data privacy issues, I just couldn't help but smile seeing some of the characters and features that might have been in my favorite games (Luigi in Super Mario 64?!). Maybe it’s time to dust off the 'ole N64, order up some 'za, and crank up the nostalgia vibes. Yahoo!

– Jeff Hilliard, Retail Director

“BA-BA DA-DA-DA BAAA!”: An Oral History of "Roundball Rock" – The Ringer

If you were a fan of NBA basketball in the 1990s and early 2000s, then you are familiar with the theme song, "Roundball Rock." Maybe you don't know it by name, but once I say "NBA on NBC," it will come flooding back to your brain. It is a composer's dream to create an iconic theme for television, let alone sports. Monday Night Football immediately springs to mind. While "Roundball Rock" may not be quite to that level, it has established a certain icon status all its own. In connection with the restart of NBA action in the bubble at Walt Disney World, The Ringer put together an oral history of the song, speaking with the composer and revisiting the heyday of '90s NBA basketball. This is an interesting read about as niche a topic as there is: broadcast sports television theme music. Enjoy. 

– Danny Milton, Editor

What’s That Little Pocket on Your Jeans For? – Art of Manliness

I've always wondered what that tiny pocket on a pair of denims is meant for. For years, I honestly thought they were meant for coins. In 2005, Steve Jobs let the world know that it's a perfect holder for the first generation iPod Nano. I can tell you that fetching loose change from it is a huge pain, and leaving an iPod Mini in there is quite uncomfortable for your sitting pleasures. The folks at The Art of Manliness are here to tell you what they are designed for. That said, I am curious to know what everyone actually uses that tiny pocket for.

– Andy Yang, Vice President, Commercial

Lead photo by Chris Barbalis

If you got to the end of Danny's wondrously exhaustive look at the 14270 Rolex Explorer and wanted more exploration-style content, we got you – just head for the poles. In this post most Heaton, grab your heaviest jacket and your glacier goggles and take a frostbitten look at a handful of watches that have seen actual use at the North and South Poles. 

Polar exploration is among the world's most difficult pursuits, and part of the challenge comes in finding gear that can take the endless abuse and keep on ticking. From funky Yemas and classic Speedmasters to Kobolds and mega-cool Panerais, you won't need air conditioning while you catch up with this polarizing post. 

Click here to read: "Winterproof: Polar Explorers And the Watches They Wore (And Are Wearing). 

Dive watches have long reigned supreme on the wrists of watch enthusiasts during the summer months, and we're no strangers to encouraging exactly that in the HODINKEE Shop. But sometimes, a new watch comes around that makes you question everything you thought you knew – and this year, the G-SHOCK G-LIDE GBX100 has caught our eye. Designed for surfers, the GBX100 series features a number of dedicated water-sport attributes like tide graphs, Moon data, and sunshine hours, in addition to an impressive suite of aesthetic and technical specifications. In fact, this might be one of the most complete and compelling G-SHOCK releases in recent memory. And with a price tag set firmly at $160, there's no doubting that G-SHOCK has another hit on its hands. 

G-SHOCK watches have long been favored by surfers around the world for their durability, so it only makes sense for the brand to develop a watch that addresses the sport's specific needs. G-SHOCK clearly did its homework on what complications might come in handy for riding the waves, but the GBX100 models will also appeal to anyone on the lookout for a quality sport watch. For starters, the watches share a number of details with G-SHOCK's recently unveiled Move GBD100 series. That includes a memory-in-pixel (MIP) LCD display; continuous smartphone connectivity through Bluetooth, which allows the watch to offer vibration alerts and notifications for incoming calls, emails, messages, and reminders; and a training mode, with a three-axis accelerometer for measuring distance, speed, pace, calories burned, and steps. Other than the tide information included on the GBX100, the biggest difference between the two collections is the case design. The GBD100 line has a circular, all-resin case profile that accentuates its wrist presence, while the new GBX100 models share the rounded-octagonal form made famous by the original "square" G-SHOCK DW5000C from 1983. The GBX100 line is a slight physical evolution from the classic "square" in terms of size and material use, but for all intents and purposes, the new watches wear and feel like souped-up versions of the G-SHOCKs you know and love.

One of the most noticeable updates involves the bezel, which utilizes a double-layer construction of resin and forged stainless steel, a brand-new G-SHOCK design with a striking hairline finish. G-SHOCK says the use of steel allows for greater impact protection against collisions with rocks underwater, but it's also just an overall attractive look and is an upgrade to the all-resin construction of most G-SHOCKs. The rest of the GBX100's case is resin, with the exception of the screwed-in steel caseback. Each watch comes on a soft urethane strap with a number of perforations and a forked pin buckle that allows for easy size adjustment. There are small slits that allow for the draining of water and sweat. Additionally, the double keeper has a pair of inner prongs that ensure the strap – and watch – won't move excessively when on the wrist.

The GBX100 models also include the new MIP LCD screens that G-SHOCK has rolled out over the past few years. This technology not only ensures a clean and crisp legibility, but also allows for extreme angle visibility and helps preserve battery power. It's high-contrast, high-resolution, and is similar to the displays found on today's top-of-the-line e-readers, so its application on a digital sport watch makes perfect sense. Each pixel on the LCD screen contains a certain amount of graphic data memory, allowing the pixels to remain visible without the use of additional battery power. This is of particular importance with the GBX100, because unlike other popular G-SHOCKs with Tough Solar technology, each of these watches is powered by a standard battery cell with a projected two-year lifespan. In addition to its improved resolution, the digital readout of the GBX100's timekeeping display is larger than what is typical of G-SHOCK. All in all, the visibility of the new GBX100 models is arguably the clearest of any G-SHOCK – ever.

Bluetooth connectivity is part and parcel with most recent G-SHOCK releases, allowing for easy and straightforward access to the G-SHOCK Move app. This smartphone app is easy to use and undoubtedly enhances the overall user experience, but it's also worth understanding that most of the watch's capabilities can be handled manually; in fact, switching between each function or setting has never been easier. With a short hold of the Display button on the top left of the case, the watch's wearer can quickly and easily navigate between the various settings, including Home Time; Time Adjustment; World Time; Alarm; Tide, Moon, and Sun; Beep configuration; Auto Light; Vibration; Bluetooth pairing; Airplane Mode; Phone Finder; imperial/metric settings; and a reset button. A quick click of the same Display button allows you to flick between the primary time and the main activity tracker with a seven-day step counter. The GBX100 models also include the standard G-SHOCK feature-set, such as a one-second stopwatch, an interval timer, a countdown timer, an auto calendar, world time, and up to four daily alarms.

The dedicated tide functionality includes all the relevant information any surfer – or beachgoer – might require for a day by the ocean. That includes the daily times for high and low tides, a tide graph, moon-phases, age of the Moon, and the sunshine hours for the specific location. The GBX100 models aren't the first G-SHOCKs to include tide displays – the recently released analog Frogman has similar capability – but they are the very first to indicate the actual height of the high and low tides, in either centimeters or feet. Tide information is available from 3,300 ports via the G-SHOCK Move smartphone app, while the world's best-known surfing spots come as pre-set options on the watch itself. It's also possible to set custom tide points based on any known latitude and longitude. 

There's clearly a lot to appreciate about the new G-LIDE GBX100 series. These are really the first G-SHOCKs to maintain the look and feel of the classic "square" models, while offering functionality and durability that places them in close competition with today's other top activity trackers. There are three different case and strap color variants now available in the HODINKEE Shop, all of which are priced at $160. The white option has a clean, monochromatic look that contrasts nicely with the watch's negative display, and the black version maintains the overall sleek design that has remained inherent to G-SHOCK since its 1983 debut. The final design variant is the most visually distinctive, with a teal tone that immediately recalls the blue-green color of the ocean. It's an attractive and summery look that stands out compared to the conventional G-SHOCK colorways without being over-the-top. 

All three models in the G-SHOCK G-LIDE GBX100 series are now available in the HODINKEE Shop, right here.

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review, and tell us which guests we should have on!

The big nine nine. Wow. It's crazy to think that we started this show a little over two years ago and that we're almost to that big three-digit milestone. There's something special planned – don't worry – but that doesn't mean we're not going to bring the heat this week too. To kick off Episode 99, we've got a preview for you of something we'll be dropping on HODINKEE.com later this week: A conversation between our own Danny Milton and Rory McIlroy. In addition to being one of the greatest golfers alive, Rory is a longtime watch lover, and the two guys get into everything from what it's like to play without fans during COVID, the watches he always makes sure to pack for a big tournament, and a whole lot more. I don't want to ruin too much, but this excerpt from the conversation should have you refreshing your browser all week as you wait for the full video interview to drop. 

For our main event, though, we've got my conversation with John Reardon, a longtime veteran of the auction world, one of the leading experts on all things Patek Philippe, and the founder of Collectability.com, an online platform for learning about and purchasing vintage Patek Philippe watches. John was my gateway into the watch world back in 2012, so in a funny way, both this podcast and my career at large are both his fault. We get into John's earliest horological experiences overhauling clocks at the American Watch & Clock Museum in Connecticut and his start in the auction world at Sotheby's in the late 1990s, as well as some of the milestones of his career, including the sales of the famed Henry Graves Jr. Supercomplication and the Breguet Sympathique. John's also got plenty of insights into the modern auction world and lots of tips for collectors of all levels and interests. Our conversation is two old friends and colleagues catching up and talking about fun times. I can't believe it took us so long to invite him on the show.

We hope you enjoy Episode 99 of HODINKEE Radio. Check out the show notes below, and let us know what you think in the comments.

Wrist Check

To get the full backstory on John's association with the Ellipse, one of Patek Philippe's most polarizing watches, you'll have to listen to the full episode, but this is the Ellipse that he rocks himself. It's a reference 3604 in the classic yellow gold/blue dial combo and those distinctive lugs with the extra section in the center. John always wanted a birth-year Patek, and he loves how this watch encapsulates the design trends of the era without straying into the now-ubiquitous Nautilus/Royal Oak territory. This is a love-it-or-hate-it kind of watch, but I don't think you'll have to try too hard to guess where John lands.

Show Notes

7:10
U.S. Open Highlights 

13:45
@rorymcilroy

14:00
Speedmaster '57 Co-Axial Chrono "Rory McIlroy" Special Edition

15:00
The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light

19:00
Rory's Birth Year Speedy

20:30
2020 PGA Championship

29:30
Zenith Watches

36:00
Collectability

38:49
Inside The Collection of Pete Fullerton

40:00
HODINKEE Radio Episode 47: William Massena

45:00
American Clock & Watch Museum

49:00
Welch Clocks

52:45
Seth G. Atwood

53:00
The Time Museum

59:00
A Grand Complication

1:04:00
Talking Watches With René Beyer

1:22:35
@collectabilityllc

1:23:34
How to Destroy a Patek Philippe

1:27:00
Patek Philippe in America

Who doesn't love a chronograph? HODINKEE editor-in-chief Jack Forster has written that chronographs seem to have the ability to bring out the worst in watch designers, but they can bring out the best as well, and as a complication, they are not, unlike things like perpetual calendars and minute repeaters, restricted to the high-end of the price spectrum. They can, instead, be found in everything from reasonably priced, tough-as-nails tool watches to ultra-high-end examples of the watchmaker's art at its most refined (and most expensive) and pretty much everywhere in between. Since they first began to be produced in pocket watches in the mid-19th century, chronographs have been made to time just about everything imaginable, and under almost any circumstance imaginable, and modern chronograph production continues to re-invent and re-imagine this apparently inexhaustible source of horological inspiration.

As arguably the world's most widely produced complication (after, of course, the simple calendar) the chronograph has this year continued to be a staple of new watch launches, and HODINKEE's editorial team has chosen their personal favorites of this year's releases so far. It's worth remembering, however, that the year is only just half over, and there are undoubtedly many more new releases to come, as the watch industry adjusts to the new (ab) normal.

Jon Bues: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

From the moment I saw the new Master Control Chronograph Calendar, I had strong feelings. This was a watch that I would certainly enjoy owning, I thought, and one that I wish I'd at least get a chance to see in the metal. Jack's Hands-On article only served to convince me further of my own early belief that this watch deserved a place right up there with the best watches of 2020. Every once in a while, a watch comes along that seems to get just about everything right: design, dimensions, functionality, value for money. Perhaps it's the fact that it feels like a watch JLC could have made in the middle part of the last century, yet somehow didn't, that enhances its appeal. The whole revamped Master Control line feels like good and honest watchmaking, plain and simple, and the Chronograph Calendar is the line's best expression.

$14,500, Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.

Jack Forster: The Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 'Ed White' In Stainless Steel

I feel like I make this bid for pity every time we do an editors' round-up, but I found it very difficult to pick a favorite out of this year's lineup of chronographs. We have had a lot of very cool stuff come out so far – the watches chosen by my fellow H. editors all represent extremely interesting, attractive efforts and, moreover, with a huge range of value propositions depending on your taste and budget. From the cheap and exceedingly cheerful Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver, to the Moser Streamliner Flyback, and all the way up to (at the higher end) Vacheron's Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph and Patek Philippe's Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph, there really was something for (almost) everyone, on the assumption that you were interested in a new chronograph this year at all.

For personal favorites, though, I suppose I have to go with the Omega Speedmaster 321 "Ed White." The Speedmaster was an early love of mine, and while my own 1861-based Speedy will always have a special place in my heart as the first so-called good Swiss watch I ever owned, there was always a part of me that wanted a new Moonwatch, but with a re-introduced caliber 321 which was, after all, the movement that went to the Moon. I never really thought it was going to happen. The 1861-based Speedmasters have served in manned space flight quite honorably as well, but the idea of a fresh-out-of-the-box, brand-spanking-new, wear-without-worry modern Speedy with a good-to-go caliber 321 never lost its appeal, and this year, against all odds and to my everlasting surprise and pleasure, it came out. It's not completely a reboot of the original Ed White, of course – I would have preferred plain white lume and the option of a closed caseback, I suppose, but in neither case do I find those aspects of the design a deal-breaker. The new Ed White is as close as I've ever come in watchmaking to having a horological genie make a few passes in the air and making an impossible wish come true.

$14,100, Omegawatches.com.

Danny Milton: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Manufacture Edition

Don't get me wrong, I really like this chronograph, but it's the details behind it which really piqued my interest. You have all the makings of a great story here. Never before used, ostensibly prototype, A386 dials were found in a dusty box in the attic of the Zenith Manufacture. These dials were then used to realize the final vision of a design not previously commercially released. It doesn't get much better than that, especially when dealing with a design as – and pardon my use of the phrase – iconic as the El Primero. The difference between this Revival piece and the classic Zenith A386 comes down to the colors of the subdials – and that's what makes this one so cool. Three different, overlapping shades of blue probably should not work aesthetically, but here, it's a winning trio. This design, inside of the A386 Revival case with a Zenith El Primero Caliber 400 movement is something I would really like to wear. 

$8,700, zenith-watches.com.

Cole Pennington: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver

There's so much to dig into with Nivada Grenchen, and I'm excited someone is finally doing it. I haven't seen the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver in person yet, but it looks like it's executed superbly, and that price isn't egregious, either. Jack nails it in his assessment in the original write-up, saying, "there is no nonsense here about 'updating a classic design for modern tastes,' which all too often means, 'getting rid of just enough of what makes the watch attractive to enthusiasts to put them off, but keeping just enough about it to keep it from being a satisfying modern watch, and therefore pleasing no one in trying to be everything to everyone.'"

That's what I like most about this modern re-edition, but it also passes a test that I use to look at rebooted watches: Would someone who doesn't particularly appreciate the history of the watch be into it? Can the watch stand on its own? I think this one can. Enjoy the watch for the way it looks, feels, and operates, and the incredible history is just a bonus. 

€2,000, Nivadagrenchenofficial.com.

Stephen Pulvirent: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph

It's hard to think of a watch that better fits the definition of the phrase "modern classic" than the IWC Portugieser Chronograph. It's one of the first "nice watches" I ever encountered, when I was an intern at a quarterly arts and culture magazine in London during summer breaks from college in the much more humble midwest. Someone in the office had one, and I remember ogling it not infrequently. That white dial with the crisp blue hands and numerals looked like what the man I aspired to be would have on his wrist. Now, more than a decade later, the watch looks almost identical and is every bit as beautiful as it was back then – only now IWC has updated it with a killer in-house caliber. They did this kind of under the radar, which makes me respect the move all the more. The result is a watch that you'd be hard-pressed not to enjoy as a daily wearer in nearly any setting. Now if only my college-aged self had known what an in-house movement was...

From $7,950, IWC.com.

James Stacey: Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition

I liked the Breitling AVI Re-Edition back when it first launched, and I still like it now. I'm really not at all a chronograph guy, but this faithful re-issue is the right size, packs a solid movement, and looks sooooo pretty. Also, it's got a 12-hour bezel, which never hurts. With proper sizing and a textured matte black dial and tanned lume application, this is yet another vintage-inspired model from Breitling that shows the strength of its leadership within the "new vintage" methodology. While I think that the steel model is a clean buy at CHF 7,900, we all know I'd like to see how the rose-gold version looks on a NATO. Overall (and especially in steel), it's toolish, considered, and a great chronograph for folks that maybe don't usually love chronos. 

CHF 7,900; Breitling.com.

I have a confession to make: I've never seen Predator. Or Commando, for that matter. Take away my man card and call me a Communist, I just didn't watch a lot of action films in the 1980s, even though I was a red-blooded American teenager when those movies came out, nor have I had a desire since. Back then, I was either reading about adventures in the jungle, the desert, at the Poles, or under the sea, or I was out in the woods with my friends having adventures of my own. And I always wanted a big watch. All the cool explorers in the magazines and on TV wore big watches. It was a symbol of high adventure, derring-do, and raw capability. No anonymous lozenge-shaped connected watches in those days. It was all big divers, mostly Seikos, Citizens, and the odd Rolex, bristling with buttons and sub-dials and saw-tooth bezels. In high school, I saved up for, and bought, a Pepsi-bezel Seiko diver. My best friend had an analog-digital Citizen Aqualand. We were our own action heroes.

No doubt you came to this review of the new Seiko Prospex SNJ029 Solar Diver expecting to read some Austrian-accented helicopter commands. But given the gap in my movie viewing history, you won't see any "get to da choppa" references here. Anyway, this burly Seiko stands on its own, no rocket launcher or sweaty python of a wrist required. When the pair of Prospex "Street Series" analog-digital divers known for their olive and khaki colorways as the "Safarnies" ("Safari" + "Arnie") were announced earlier this year, I didn't hesitate, and bought one, the khaki-clad SNJ029. I guess the teen-aged me never really grew up.

As some background for the other seven people who didn't see two of the 1980s' biggest action flicks, Seiko's growing collection of these analog-digital divers are inspired by the H558 diver that Seiko introduced in 1982, a watch that became famous for its appearance on the wrist of Arnold Schwarzenegger in the aforementioned movies. But that big-screen fame overshadows the significance of the watch itself. The H558 was the world's first analog-digital alarm chronograph. It kicked off a fertile period of this very 1980s genre that spawned such icons as Citizen’s Promaster Aqualand and Altichron, and the Breitling Aerospace, which all came out a few years later. 

These watches were the height of functionality, a renowned combination of analog legibility and the enhanced feature set of the digital display, all packed in a shrouded dive watch case water resistant (at the time) to 150 meters. There simply was nothing better for all-around adventuring back then. Mechanical watches were old fashioned and fragile by comparison. The G-Shock was a year away, and the Suunto Vector not even a glimmer in a Finnish engineer’s eye. The H558's alarm could wake you for an early summit attempt in the morning, the chronograph could track your ski descent from the top, and the rotating bezel could time your dive in the afternoon. The Seiko H558 was, in fact, worn on expeditions to the top of Everest and to both Poles by the end of the '80s.

Despite this illustrious history, it was still surprising, and indeed anachronistic, for Seiko to release new analog-digital watches at a time when trends favor luxury mechanical or bleeding-edge connected timepieces. At Baselworld in 2019, the company brought out the faithfully "tacti-cool" SNJ025 and then followed it up with a fully black-cased version and a Pepsi-bezel "PADI" version. Then, this spring, we saw the two "safari"-hued editions, the olive drab SNJ031 and the subject of this review, the khaki SNJ029.

For all these new watches, Seiko didn't just dust off the old H558 ana-digi module. The clever little motor inside is now the solar-charged caliber H851, with a sleep function, offering synchronized analog and digital time setting and a better backlight. You still don't get activity tracking, Bluetooth connectivity, or satellite timekeeping. But if it had those features, I'd also have likely not bought one. It's simply not the point of this watch. In addition to what it can do, the SNJ029 also gets upgraded to 200 meters of water resistance and a more pliable silicone-blend strap in khaki. The strap retains the classic flat vent shape that Seiko pioneered, allowing for the contraction of a neoprene dive suit sleeve, and is long enough for a muscular wrist or femoral artery tourniquet should the need arise.

Most watch reviews center on wearability, accuracy, features, and finishing. But this watch is more about how it makes you feel when you wear it. Right out of the box, it's easy to set, synchronizing the digital time with the analog hands with a twirl of the crown and the push of a button. I set the second time zone to that of my in-laws in Sri Lanka (with a 30-minute offset, mind you), checked the battery power with a long press of the top button, and headed outside. And that’s where this watch thrives, if not belongs. Maybe it's the Serengeti color-way or the protective shroud, but the SNJ029 begs to tag along on outdoor adventures, big and small. 

The best gear is that which doesn’t demand attention, special care, or distract you from what you’re doing. If you’re worried about your watch, you hesitate, you move differently, less naturally. You forget to check your pressure gauge, your depth, your handhold, your foot placement, and before you know it, you’ve gotten the bends or broken a collarbone, or simply enjoyed the activity less. This is a watch that you decidedly don’t have to worry about. I would say this watch excels because you can do anything while wearing it. Many beaters are boring, predictable – you know the usual suspects. This new safari-toned Seiko is dynamic, colorful, and fun. Grab-and-go solar charging and a $550 price tag don't hurt either.

Within the first week of ownership, I went kayaking, biking, camping, and scuba diving with the SNJ029 on my wrist, not to mention did a good measure of punishing yardwork that would have had any of my mechanical watches begging for mercy. At night in a tent and inside the bowels of a wrecked schooner, the hands were predictably Seiko bright. I used the alarm for a campsite wakeup in order not to oversleep our dive charter. Transplanting shrubs and hacking buckthorn in the garden left the watch caked in mud. I won’t go so far as to say I want to abuse it, but not having to pamper a watch that is still enjoyable to wear has been a pleasure. I've never been a G-Shock guy, and my Garmins come out mainly for activity tracking, so this Seiko is a fine alternative and one I also don't mind leaving behind for long periods. I know as long as it has some daylight to stay charged, it will be running and accurate when I call it up for rough duty.

But the SNJ029 isn't just a fun beater. As part of Seiko's "Street Series," the company likely intended the watch to have a certain urban style, separate from the blacked-out commando vibe of the original and of the reissue. There’s a handsome interplay of colors on this watch that transcends the typical codes and nautical hues of dive watches. Tan nylon or canvas straps have been around a while, but I can't say I've ever seen khaki used on a rubber dive strap, and it sets off well against the dark grey, almost gunmetal, steel of the buckle, keeper, and wraparound case shroud. The brushed rectangular hands are a nice change from the more "dive-style" hands from the 2019 editions. And the hints of orange on the sweep hand and pushers keep the palette from being too sterile.

Speaking of those pushers, they're big and tactile, easy to work while the watch is on the wrist. Instead of screwing down tight against the case to lock out the pushers, the collars unthread outward to lock, and clockwise in to release. The orange collar indicates when a pusher is unlocked and thus less water resistant. I keep mine unlocked most of the time for quick access to the digital functions. But when diving, I locked them for secure water resistance. I typically keep the date visible on the digital display for day-to-day usefulness, but have otherwise used the chronograph a handful of times. Seiko calls the second time-zone function "Local Time," and the digits have an "L" next to them as such, but if I were traveling, I'd be more inclined to use this function for my home time and use the analog hands for local time for quick, intuitive reading.

The digital display does have a backlight, which is far superior to that of the original H558 diver of the 1980s or any other digital watch of that era. But it still pales in comparison to the big bright dials of modern connected or digitals, due to the tiny LCD screen. Also peculiar, as James pointed out a while back, pressing the top button turns on the backlight, but it is also used to start and stop the chronograph, so you can forget about seeing a running chronograph after dark, since pressing the button will stop your elapsed time. A small nuisance. I call it quaintly nostalgic, a reminder of an era when we put up with the limitations of the technology because there simply wasn't anything better.

Given the prominent pushers, chunky case, and long khaki strap, this watch pairs best with jeans or shorts and a T-shirt. Thus, the timing of its release during a stay-at-home pandemic summer has made the SNJ029 a perfect choice for knocking around, and it's been on my wrist for the past several weeks, almost non-stop. From the spec sheet and photos, I figured this 47.8mm diameter watch would be a door frame buster for Austrian bodybuilders only. But like most of Seiko's "tuna can" watches, it actually wears compactly thanks to its almost perfectly circular proportions and is light on the wrist. Still it's no trembling flower and does make its presence known.

There's a well-known saying among photographers that goes, "the best camera is the one you have with you." I think the same philosophy can be applied to watches: The best watch is the one on your wrist, one that inspires you to go out and be adventurous, get outside of your comfort zone, emboldened by the intrepid march of a seconds hand even in dark, cold, wet conditions. A watch you don't have to worry about, so you can concentrate on the adventures themselves, whether that's camping with your kids, diving a shipwreck, or running to a waiting helicopter. The SNJ029 Prospex is one of those watches. Go on, be your own action hero.

The SNJ029 Prospex Solar Diver retails for $550 and more information can be found on Seiko's website. 

Photography by Gishani Ratnayake.

This may have happened to you: You tell someone you're passionate about watches and find endless beauty in these little anachronistic mechanical wrist machines. You wax poetic about the movement, and you might even casually use reference numbers as if the listener is supposed to know what exactly you're talking about. When you finish extolling the virtues of horology and watchmaking in a soliloquy that sounds more like a last-ditch effort to inject a semblance of momentum into the conversation, the listener promptly tells you they simply don't get it, and furthermore, they do not care to get it. For them, it's just outside the scope of anything worth trying to understand. You either have it or you don't, as they say.

While I often find myself waxing poetic about watches, if someone were to do the same to me about abstract art, I'd identify closely with the listener in the above scenario.

The Hublot Sang Bleu II limited edition chronograph brings together the world of haute horology and abstract art. It is the result of a relationship between Hublot and Maxime Plescia-Büchi, a self-described "tattooist" from Switzerland. His studio and creative agency, Sang Bleu, includes a magazine that explores fine art, fashion, sociology, kink culture, and tattoo culture. On top of that, the studio even dabbles in typeface. They've also worked on logos for fashion house Balenciaga and even the City of Stockholm, but perhaps a touchpoint familiar to American audiences is that Maxime Plescia-Büchi has tattooed Kanye West with the birthdays of his daughter and mother. 

This is the second watch in a series of collaborations with Plescia-Büchi. Arthur Touchot covered the first release here, concluding that Hublot had certainly been challenged by Maxime's asks, like creating a new bezel and time display unique to this watch, but the result was "Hublot at its best." 

Does the sequel stand up to the original? 

Admittedly, I don't have much background in the world of Sang Bleu. Fashion can sometimes be a bit of a hurdle (readers have noted that I should have the fashion police called on me). I've only taken introductory classes on sociology in college, and I don't read much about kink or tattoo culture, either. But like Arthur, I find the watch charming as an exercise in stepping away from conventional thinking when it comes to watch design. The brand Hublot was built from an attitude of defiance, but the current product lineup has such a strong thematic visual identity throughout, and many models reference the same pronounced design features. For Hublot to hand over the reins to a third party is noteworthy.  

One doesn't necessarily need to have a full sleeve or a whip in the closet to appreciate what went into the Sang Bleu II. Imagine the Sang Bleu II side by side with a standard Big Bang, and the details start to jump out. Firstly, the 45mm case has been treated to a transformation featuring bevels, angles, and alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces. The watch comes in two materials: titanium and King Gold. King Gold is Hublot's proprietary formula that's a tad richer than standard gold. There's a bit of red in it, and it takes to polishing quite well. There will be 200 made in titanium and 100 made in King Gold.  

The main color featured on the watch is the very blue associated with Sang Bleu. In a 2016 interview with Something Curated, Plescia-Büchi explained the concept behind the tone of blue.

"Sang Bleu, meaning 'blue blood' in French, was really born from the idea of exposing this intersection of cultures in a way I thought made sense. Blue blood is symbolic of nobility, and the word play with blue ink and blood is almost accidental. The idea of referencing nobility was really a statement about contemporary culture. A culture where traditional values such as 'high' or 'noble' and then 'sub' or 'vile' or 'popular' don't apply anymore. Young people have a transversal and holistic perception of culture."

The only other watch that I've seen that compares in terms of dial color is the Sinn U1 B, and while the color is very similar, it's perceived very differently on the wrist. With its angular case shape and geometrically adorned dial, it feels much more like a mystical talisman offering protection from evil spirits or a piece of technology from a civilization far into the future or past than a modern watch. 

The latticework hands are the defining feature of the watch's aesthetic. They're an interesting exercise in geometry and design, and they're derived from a Sang Bleu tattoo design. The triangular motif appears throughout the tattoo work the studio in London has done. Pushing the large hands around the dial is Hublot's Unico HUB1240.  

Remember those geometric puzzles from long ago that ask how many triangles are displayed? You can play that game with the Sang Bleu II's hands, too. 

Material is removed from portions of the dial so that the chronograph hands appear to be floating above the exposed bits of the chronograph module placed on top of the HUB1240 – but the "hands" are more like latticework discs that mirror the motif established with the hands and case. Even the rotor follows this theme. Again, there are triangles laden with lume on the chronograph discs that serve as a visual indicator.

There's a lot of depth to take in with this watch. Complex elements exist on different planes, and it's 16.5mm tall, which makes peering down to the exposed elements of the movement a visual journey. To me, this is the essence of the watch. Being able to find new details every time it's observed. 

With the Sang Bleu II, I didn't end any closer to being able to speak the language of abstract art, but I did end up with an appreciation for what happens when the work of Plescia-Büchi meets mechanical watchmaking. Much like art itself, certain things aren't for everyone, as illustrated by folks that don't seem to understand mechanical watchmaking. But one thing's for sure, my short time with the Sang Bleu II brought me one step closer to appreciating—at least when it comes to watches—abstract art. 

The Hublot Sang Bleu II utilizes a HUB1240 automatic chronograph caliber with a 72-hour power reserve. Both King Gold and Titanium models come in a 45mm case. The King Gold is limited to 100 pieces and it's priced at $47,300. The Titanium version will see 200 examples and is priced at $25,200. For more, visit Hublot.

The Quartz Crisis is one of those moments in the evolution of an art (if we wish to grace watchmaking with that term, and why not?) which marks a point in which it becomes necessary for both the art and the artist to re-invent themselves. The handwriting was on the wall for mechanical horology for some time, of course – electronic watches, such as the Hamilton Electric, were never serious competitors to a good mechanical watch (too expensive, too fragile, and not enough of a performance improvement in exchange), but the Accutron showed, starting in 1960, that technology would no more leave watchmaking untouched than any other domain, and with the advent of the quartz watch on Christmas Day in 1969, mechanical horology seemed to face an existential crisis from which no recovery could be imagined.

By the time I became seriously interested in watches, the watch internet in its first incarnation was just starting to take off, albeit in the form of Usenet newsgroups. There were no pictures to argue over, but the intensity and ferocity of disagreements certainly presaged the wild and wooly online watch community of today. And in the wake of the gradual recovery of the Swiss watch industry, which had been so badly damaged by the Quartz Crisis that there was serious talk in the Swiss press of shutting down mechanical watchmaking completely, mechanical horology reinvented itself as less of a necessity, and more of a form of personal pleasure and personal expression. 

This, in turn, led fine watchmaking firms to take a fresh look at making both simple and complicated watches, which distinguished themselves more strongly than might have been the case in the past, and we were treated, as the 1980s and 1990s went by, to increasingly interesting and beautiful mechanical watches which would have been considered unthinkable in the decade after the first quartz watches appeared. So much so that HODINKEE's Executive Editor, Joe Thompson, was able to write, in 1990, that "The mechanical watch has made a Lazarus-like return at the upper end of the market, and is a major feature of the Swiss renaissance. Mechanical watch exports are up 44% in the past two years, to $1.5 billion. They represent 39% of Swiss exports sales. Patek Philippe and Rolex, which still make their own mechanical movements, have soared to record sales marketing the prestige, value and rarity of traditional, hand-made Swiss craftsmanship. Now others are following their lead. A chorus of new mechanicals ticked away at the Basel Fair this year, with many brands showing automatic movements for the first time in ages. The mechanical revival may even head down market. SMH [today’s Swatch Group] plans to launch a mechanical Swatch this year." 

In the next decade, there was an efflorescence of mechanical horology the likes of which had not been seen since the turn of the 18th century to the 19th, when many of today's high complications gradually took on their modern form, and delighting the eye and amusing the mind coexisted firmly alongside the goal of achieving greater and greater gains in precision watchmaking. The masterpieces of that era both set the stage for fine watchmaking as it exists today, and in many cases, are still a benchmark by which fine watchmaking should be judged. Here are three totally subjective personal favorites of mine from the period.

The Jules Audemars Equation Of Time

It would not surprise me very much if many enthusiasts did not even realize that the Jules Audemars line exists at Audemars Piguet. It's not much in the spotlight these days; in fact, HODINKEE has covered watches from the line only a handful of times since the site was founded, and only two out of six of those stories were on new watches – the remainder were auction reports. Yet, there was a time when the Jules Audemars collection represented Audemars Piguet's complicated watchmaking at its best, and such watches as the Grande et Petite Sonnerie Repetition Minutes Carillon, Reserve de Sonnerie et Dynamographe were, if not must-haves, certainly watches that anyone with pretensions to horological sophistication would feel they owed it to themselves to know about, and whose importance and place in horological history was valuable and interesting to understand. One of the very first watches in the collection that I ever fell hard for was the Jules Audemars Equation Of Time.

The Jules Audemars Equation Of Time was introduced in 2000, and it was, at the time, the very first wristwatch to have a sunrise/sunset complication – such complications had been made in pocket watches and clocks for centuries, but it had never been put in a wristwatch before. I am not quite sure why the sunrise/sunset complication took so long to appear in a wristwatch – it may at least partly have to do with the fact that it is generally location-dependent, and in the age of modern jet travel, having a complication which is particular to a single place on earth means a pretty niche watch. The Jules Audemars Equation Of Time managed to be the first-ever wristwatch with a sunrise/sunset complication; independent watchmaker Martin Braun launched his EOS watch just a few months later.

As the name states, the Jules Audemars Equation Of Time also has an Equation Of Time complication (this is the difference between mean solar time and true solar time), and moreover, the moment of true solar noon can be read off the dial as well (the time of true solar noon varies by about four minutes per degree of longitude). The difference between mean local noon and civil noon is engraved on the rehaut, and you can determine true local noon by waiting until the moment when the minute hand is superimposed on the Equation Of Time hand. (Amazingly enough, a 12-year-old video by AP showing how to read off the difference between civil noon and local solar noon is still up on YouTube).

The watch is also a perpetual calendar, and it was, in 2000, one of the few watches to feature a high-accuracy astronomical moon-phase indication, which is accurate to one days' error in 122 years (and 44 days, for those who like to keep track of such things). If you want to get an even better sense of just how much is going on here, you can have a look at the actual manual right here.

On top of everything else, the complications were built on top of one of the most elevated automatic movements of all time – the ultra-thin caliber 2120, which is 2.45mm thick. Even with the complications, the total movement height is only 5.35mm. The production numbers for the watch were very low as each one was essentially a bespoke piece: You would specify the location, and AP would have to make Equation Of Time and sunrise/sunset cams individually for each order. According to an archived listing on AP's website, it was not a small watch, at 44mm x 11.7mm, which surprised me very much when I looked it up because I have a persistent, albeit two-decade-old, memory of it being a smaller watch; god knows why. The complication spent a brief period of time in a Royal Oak case before being finally phased out. This was quite literally the watch responsible for my learning about the Equation Of Time for the first time (perhaps it was the effort involved, but I've had a weakness for the complication ever since), and it represents, I think, a real high-water mark in classic complicated watchmaking.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5100 With 10-Day Power Reserve

The 5100, which was also released in 2000, is for me one of the most beautiful and interesting simple watches that Patek has produced since the Mechanical Renaissance began in earnest. It is, in certain respects, diametrically opposed in complexity and intention to the Jules Audemars Equation Of Time, but it is its equal in terms of masterful presentation of horology as art and of watchmaking at the high end as the capacity to take infinite pains. It's a watch that was written about the year it debuted, most entertainingly (in parts one and two of a two-part article), by Alan Downing, who wrote under the pseudonym Watchbore on Timezone.com. The watch was a technical tour-de-force – it was the first wristwatch ever to be made with a 10-day power reserve, a world record at the time – and was the brainchild of Patek's long-time technical director, Jean-Pierre Musy, of whom Downing waggishly wrote, "Mr. Musy, who, as one of Switzerland’s most talented horological engineers, is unknown to the watch-buying public, is a stickler for what he calls le confort — the provision of every convenience the most exacting owner will ever think of requiring."

I can do no better than to quote Watchbore more extensively, on some of the distinctive features of the 5100.

"He [Musy] has introduced a calculated amount of friction between the ratchet-wheel and the underside of the top-plate to mitigate, with an agreeable tactile sensation, the lengthy task of winding the watch. Unlike the ordinary leather strap, that of the ref. 5100 will support the watch at a convenient angle when you lay it by your bedside. The watch is also adjusted in this inclined position, in addition to the five conventional positions of adjustment. And in case, while setting your watch, you happen to drop it into the bath, a double seal in the winding stem ensures that water-resistance is maintained even when the crown is pulled out."

"The movement, regulated at 21,600 v/h by a free-sprung balance with eight adjusting weights, runs in 29 jewels. Turning the weights reduces or increases the effective radius of the balance wheel, thus speeding or slowing the rate, as illustrated on the balance-cock. The balance is dynamically adjusted at the lowest possible amplitude. The watches are delivered with a rating certificate which should show a performance well within COSC norms. Its long power reserve gives the watch some advantage in the tests where the movements are wound daily, as the springs are never allowed to unwind by more than 10%."

"Measuring 28 x 20 x 5.05mm, the Cal. 28-20 movement is equivalent to a 13-ligne round caliber. Its volume, with 172 parts, is around 18% greater than that of the Cal. 240 Q automatic perpetual-calendar with 275 parts made by the same manufacturer. The rounded corners of the movement suggest that future versions will be fitted into round cases, perhaps with such complications as a perpetual calendar. The winged case, a complex and highly polished arrangement of convexes and concaves is said to take 188 separate operations to complete. Applied gold numerals show the even hours, while the odd hours are indicated by three opposing pairs of lapped markers, variously angled according to their position on the dial. The design is not original, however, having been adapted from the 1952 Ref. 2554 [better known as the 'Manta Ray']."

Let's think about this for a moment – this is a watch whose maker actually went to the trouble of adjusting it not just to positions, but also to the position it would occupy if used as a clock on a nightstand. Dynamic poising at the lowest possible amplitude is a measure undertaken to ensure that positional errors will be minimized even at the end of the (very long) power reserve. All this enormous care in the design, construction, and adjustment of the watch have a whole heck of a lot more to do, if you ask me, with why Patek Philippe is Patek Philippe than any frenzy over a certain steel sports watch. Of course, these details take time and a certain amount of knowledge about horology to appreciate, but these are, after all, the things that make a difference between a genuinely great watch and a merely very good one. An absolutely glorious watch – one whose quiet but thoroughgoing excellence makes for poor Instagram fodder but enormous horological satisfaction.

The Longines Ephemerides Solaires, 1989

If you ask most enthusiasts nowadays what they think of when they think of Longines, chances are that they'll talk about watches from the company's Heritage collection – a range of generally mechanically straightforward, vintage-inspired timepieces that look back to some of the more popular and better-known designs and models from the company's past. There is one model in the Heritage collection, however, which points to a different part of Longines' past, and that's the Hour Angle watch, whose persistence in the collection is something of a minor miracle. For all that I can't imagine it's an important watch to the company commercially, it's one I'm glad they've kept in production – a large, basically exact reproduction of a watch made to determine the local hour angle, or longitude, when navigating an aircraft.

Back in 1989, just as the mechanical renaissance was gathering steam, Longines celebrated the 100th anniversary of its trademark (hey, why not) by producing a watch that is both something of a one-off in the company's history, but which also is an extension of the interest in celestial phenomena which the Hour Angle watch represents. This watch is the Longines Ephemerides Solaires.

This 37mm watch has an ETA 2824 as a base caliber, but it also includes a sunrise/sunset complication (yes, I know we just said that the AP Jules Audemars Equation Of Time was the first; more about that in a minute) at 12:00 on the dial, and an indication of the solar declination: This is the angular difference between the path of the Sun in the sky and the celestial equator. The declination is zero on the equinoxes, and reaches a maximum angle of 23.44 degrees on the solstices, and you can see that the indication for solar declination shows a maximum declination of 24 degrees (a reasonable approximation given the tiny size of the indication's aperture). 

The Equation Of Time is shown by the blue line on the rotating bezel, which has a conspicuous locking lever at 6:00 (why, I'm not sure, as the position of the blue line doesn't change; maybe it's intended to keep the bezel locked so that the current month is at the top of the dial), and you basically just read off the approximate Equation Of Time for the day to within whatever resolution your vision is capable of – assisted, perhaps, by a magnifying glass. One owner of this watch mentioned on Timezone.com, in 2001, that he definitely needed one to read off the sunrise/sunset complication. The month and date are shown in apertures on the left and right respectively.

How to read off sunrise and sunset times is less obvious. Instruction manuals for this watch do not appear to have made it online (which is not surprising given the date of manufacture and the small number of watches made – 1,000 in stainless steel and 200 in gold, according to the gent on Timezone), and indeed, a search for the manual turns up several plaintive requests from new owners of pre-owned Ephemerides Solaires watches asking if anyone has one. As far as I can tell, the hour of sunrise and sunset is given by the position of the boundary between the blue and gold sections of the respective indicator rings along the bottom of each sector. In the watch in the picture, the date is August 2. The sunrise/sunset times are calculated for St. Imier, Switzerland, which is the historic home of Longines and, indeed, the time of sunrise on August 2 in St. Imier was 6:13 AM – the watch shows 5:13, but this doesn't take into account European Summer Time, which adds an hour. What the 1-15-30 graduations might mean is less clear to me – possibly the time difference between actual sunrise and sunset, and twilight, which is about 20-30 minutes; I'm not sure how you'd read that off from the indications though. 

So why is the general consensus that the Jules Audemars Equation Of Time was the first wristwatch with a sunrise/sunset complication? Well, I think it partly has to do with the fact that the Ephemerides Solaires watches only tell these times for St. Imier, Switzerland (you have to do some mental arithmetic to arrive at the correct time for your location, unless you were born in St. Imier, plan on dying in St. Imier, and have no particular plans to ever travel beyond the borders of St. Imier), and partly to do with the fact that the resolution for the time is limited by the quite minute size of the indications. Still, you have to give Longines credit for kinda-sorta getting there first. This is an awful lot of astronomical information in a pretty small watch, and it shows a real inventiveness in making such complications at a relatively affordable price. It's a difficult watch to find, although they do pop up at auction occasionally, and prices never seem to have risen above the three to four thousand dollar mark, even for one of the gold models. 

It is said that those who forget the past are doomed to repeat it, but I think a slightly different version of the adage applies to watchmaking, in which those who forget the past – well, simply forget it. But the period between 1990 and 2000, for all that it has faded from the memories of both brands and collectors, represents a time when the Swiss mechanical watch industry was shaking off the deadly lassitude of the Quartz Crisis and finding, to its surprise, that people still wanted what it was selling. The rediscovery of its own ingenuity gave birth to a generation of sometimes extremely interesting watches, and it is hard to avoid feeling as if, in the age of Instagram, more emphasis is laid on cosmetics and less on real watchmaking value at every price point. These things tend to run in cycles, though, and perhaps relative exhaustion with the obsession with cosmetics that has characterized the last ten years will give way to – or at least, find itself balanced by – greater curiosity about horological creativity in the months and years to come.

How a humming movement changed wristwatches forever.

Welcome to the fifteenth installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Elijah Morin, Joshua Polansky, Oscar Tan, Chris Gagliano, and Austin Lyon.

Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story.

Elijah Morin And His Cartier Tank

When Elijah was planning a trip to Spain and Morocco with his girlfriend, he struggled to figure out which watch to bring – finally settling on his Cartier Tank. It was in places like Tangier that it really felt like it belonged, giving Elijah the sense that he was traveling back in time. He looks forward to creating more memories with it on his wrist, wearing it on his wedding day, and passing it on to his children.

Joshua Polansky And His Eberhard Chronograph

On a trip to Italy with his wife for his 40th birthday, Joshua spent several days watch hunting in Florence before discovering a watch shop to his liking. It was there that the owner pulled out a watch from a brand he hadn't heard of – Eberhard. After spending a night researching the brand, he decided he had to have the watch and picked it up the next day. For Joshua, it represents the passion of watchmaking and reminds him of one of his favorite cities in the world.

@Jpol623

Oscar Tan And His Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

When Oscar, who is from Singapore, was looking for his first luxury watch, he wanted something understated – and ended up with this Black Bay Fifty-Eight. While it served him well on a trip to Norway, he eventually sold it to finance another watch – and then quickly bought it back when he realized it was the watch that held the most stories for him. Through the experience, he learned that if you really want something, "the whole universe will conspire to make it happen."

Chris Gagliano And His Orient Ray II

In 2018, Patchogue, NY-native Chris found out he and his wife would be having their first child. He planned to mark the birth with a new watch – but that plan went awry when his son was born a month early. When he was discharged from the hospital, Chris drove his son home, lifted him out of his car seat, and found the Orient he'd planned on buying sitting there underneath him. It has been on his wrist nearly every day since.

@cgags47

Austin Lyon And His IWC Pilot Chronograph

Austin, who is from New York City, fell in love with this Pilot Chrono when he first got into watches. When he was in college, and short of the funds to buy the watch, he got into leatherwork and made a 21mm strap for the watch, which he knew he'd own someday. Nine years later, when he got married, his wife gifted him the watch he'd dreamed of for almost a decade.

@austinblyon

Ready To Submit Your Own Watch Story? Here's How It Works

1. Pick one watch that is very special to you, and get your camera phone ready.

2. Record a video telling us your most interesting or meaningful story about your watch. Let's say 2-3 minutes is the sweet spot – if you go longer, that's okay. (And please remember to introduce yourself: your name and where you are from.)

3. Get creative, keep it clean, and have fun! 

4. Take some photos on the wrist and a few shots of the watch so that we can proudly display them on our site. Horizontal, please.

5. To share your video and photos, you can either A) upload here; or B) upload to your preferred large file transfer service and send a link to mywatchstory@hodinkee.com.

It's Wednesday, which means a fresh batch of vintage watches have arrived in the HODINKEE Shop. This week, it's all about highlighting the differences that make vintage watches so interesting and exciting. We've got some watches that are slight variations on all-time classic references, including a Submariner ref. 1680 and a Carrera ref. 2447, as well as a few models with funky case and dial designs that are completely out of the ordinary. While the designs may vary, the case metals don't. Each of the vintage watches in today's listing is made of stainless steel and can be considered a sport watch. Sit back and relax, it's time for vintage!  

1967 Heuer Carrera Ref. 2447 NST

Heuer introduced the first Carrera chronograph, the ref. 2447, in 1963. The name was borrowed from the Carrera Panamericana race, which was a legendary – and deadly – rally held in Mexico from 1950 to 1954. The Carrera was introduced to the world the same year that Rolex released its first Daytona. The pair of chronographs both featured dials made by Singer and the legendary Valjoux 72 chronograph movement. The Carrera ref. 2447 would eventually be available with a variety of dial designs, and the example we have today is a rare bird. It's the classic reverse-panda design, and the real standout feature is the white tachymeter scale that runs along the edge of the dial and matches the color of the sub-dials. These models (indicated by the "NST" at the end of the reference number) are quite uncommon, especially in the lovely condition that this example has achieved, with beautifully aged lume on the dial and hands.

1975 Rolex 'Red' Submariner Ref. 1680

The Rolex Submariner was originally designed without a date window, but with the ref. 1680 in the late 1960s, a date complication was added at the three o'clock position. Over 50 years later, Rolex continues to offer the Submariner with (or without) a date window, and it's all thanks to the ref. 1680. That's one of the reasons why collectors go crazy for the model, which is perhaps best known for the small, punchy line of red text on its dial. The example we have here is in great condition, with attractively aged lume and a Mark VI dial, which is indicated by the case number and the closed sixes found on the depth rating.

1974 Omega Speedmaster Mark II Ref. 145.014 With 'Racing' Dial

Introduced in 1969, the Speedmaster Mark II was an evolution of Omega's classic chronograph, intended to bring the collection into the future. Omega clearly took design cues from the standard Speedmaster Professional when designing the Mark II, as the dials in most variations are nearly identical, save for the Mark II branding. The watches were powered by the same caliber 861 found inside the Speedmaster Professional, but the movements were placed inside a thicker, more tonneau-shaped case. Omega offered the Mark II with a few different dial variations, including the one we have here: the "racing" dial. The original "racing" dials had a light grey color that was brought to life by bright orange accents on the chronograph hands and a bicolor checkered seconds track on the periphery of the dial. Collectors tend to gravitate toward the "racing" dial version of the Mark II for its rarity and striking aesthetics; the popularity of the vintage models even inspired Omega to release a reissue of the watch in 2014. These Mark II models with "racing" dials offer great value, especially when compared to the asking price of vintage Speedmaster Professional models with similar dial designs.  

The Full Set

In addition to the three highlights above, we have a cool automatic Zodiac chronograph on its original bracelet from the 1970s, a funky 1970s LeCoultre Master Mariner with a blue, egg-shaped dial, and a Universal Genève Compax Chronograph from the 1990s that comes as a full set. Head over to the HODINKEE Shop for all the details!

Rory McIlroy's accolades are numerous. He is a four-time major champion, the reigning FedEx Cup Champion, and one of the most recognizable names in the game of golf – if not all of sports – today. On the eve of this year's PGA Championship at Harding Park in San Francisco, we sit down with Rory to talk all things golf, watches, and more.

From his days growing up in Northern Ireland learning the game to running away with the U.S. Open at age 21, Rory gives some valuable insights on playing golf at such an elite level. More than that, he clues us in on what the professional game is like in these unprecedented times, and how that affects his own play and focus.

Of course, no interview would be complete without a conversation about watches. We knew Rory had an interest in watches, but we didn't know just how deep that interest was. Let's just say he's definitely a watch guy – as well as an Omega ambassador. We talk about everything from the watches he brings with him to tournaments, pieces that hold special importance to him, and the process of helping Omega develop their new Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light watch. Plus, if you want to know Rory's take on wearing a watch while playing golf, this interview is for you. 

Without giving away too much more, check out the video and enjoy our conversation with Rory McIlroy.

Top photo: Stuart Franklin/Getty Images

To say that this year’s calendar of new watch releases has been more scattered than any in recent memory is surely an understatement. The COVID-19 pandemic has made traveling and holding large events ever more difficult, and shows have had to be canceled or converted to digital formats. But that hasn't done much to stop the steady flow of new watches. We've done our best to present them to you as they've been announced, and in an easily digestible format that can be referenced as a whole. There is, however, a major watch event on the horizon for later this month, and HODINKEE will, of course, cover it. 

Originally planned for April, the upcoming Geneva Watch Days will be the first (and perhaps only) major watch industry trade show of the year in Switzerland when it kicks off later this month. Showcasing watches from 17 brands, it will run from August 26-29 in the city of Geneva and will adhere to a "decentralized format." This means that the brands will show watches in their own spaces – at boutiques or in hotels – by appointment only. The show's organizers have emphasized that the event is going forward with the support of the city and the canton of Geneva, and the decentralized format is geared toward keeping the show's visitors and exhibitors safe.

The participating brands include the show's founders – Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Gérald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser, MB&F, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk – as well as eight associate brands. They are Artya, Bovet, Carl F. Bucherer, Czapek, Ferdinand Berthoud, Louis Moinet, Maurice Lacroix, and Reuge. A press release from Geneva Watch Days makes mention of the fact that these brands will be presenting "numerous new models."

The event was announced in March by Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin during an appearance on Swiss television, and Babin has been the show's most visible proponent. 

"The decentralized format of this unique watch brands' gathering will allow us to be safe," Babin says in a statement on the Geneva Watch Days website. "Also, we have put together strict hygiene rules for all participants and visitors. No risks will be taken." Babin calls the Geneva event "a major and unique opportunity to rekindle the flame of the watchmaking sector that has been slowed down the last weeks."

To that end, masks and hand sanitizer will be be made available to all exhibitors and will also be available in areas where people meet. "While social distancing measures will of course be strictly respected," the press release from the Geneva Watch Days says, "this will in no way dampen the warm and friendly atmosphere desired and expected by all." 

The City and Canton of Geneva have been severely affected by the COVID-19 crisis, according to the organizers of the show, and their press release mentions the hospitality industry in particular. "Above and beyond their initial purely watchmaking vocation," the release says, "Geneva Watch Days are also intended to bring a breath of fresh air to the local economy as a whole and to a city whose watchmaking industry is one of the brightest jewels in its crown."

Stay tuned for lots of new watch releases from the above brands in late August. And that's not all: The next installment of Watches & Wonders will take place in Shanghai just a couple of weeks later, from September 9-13.

The technical watch review was pioneered on Timezone.com back at the beginning of this century by Walt Odets, whose activity as a horological writer represented, and represents, a rare combination of traits. He was an active and avid collector and enthusiast, but he was also an extremely skilled watchmaker and machinist, who thought nothing of spending four or five figures for a watch on Monday and taking it apart on Tuesday to see just what made it tick.

Since then, the technical watch review, done firsthand by an enthusiast who's also a watchmaker and accompanied by an actual movement teardown and analysis, has largely lain fallow, for obvious reasons. For one thing, having a big enough war chest to collect modern watches with some regularity, plus the tools, instincts, talent, and cojones to actually take one apart, thereby voiding the warranty, and dissect its guts, are not attributes that tend to occur in a single person. Moreover, disinterest in technical watchmaking and in developing the ability to actually evaluate a watch is rampant. And suppose you did want to develop such knowledge, where would you start? We can't all take a full-on WOSTEP watchmaking course and then start whipping the back off everything that has a crown and goes tick-tock, can we?

Fortunately, watchmaker Peter Speake (formerly, Peter Speake-Marin) has stepped into the breach, with The Naked Watchmaker. At one time Speake had a brand under his own name and produced very high-end hand-finished watches, but his current labor of love is The Naked Watchmaker Project, which, true to the name, hosts an incredible range of movement "deconstructions" along with technical analysis and explanations. It is a wonderful source of horological education and offers actual firsthand information about many, many aspects of both modern and vintage movement construction, about which most of us would struggle to understand firsthand. Here are just four from the dozens of deconstructions he has performed which offer especial interest to watch enthusiasts.

A Dubois-Depraz Moonphase And Chronograph Module

The chronograph modules created by Dubois-Depraz often get a bad rap among enthusiasts. They are stereotyped as a mechanism that represents an acquiescence to cheapness on the part of the watch brands that use them, but they also are so common as to verge on ubiquitous, and they are used in watches – generally on top of a supplied base caliber as well, which can be anything from an ETA 2824 to something from Manufacture Vaucher to anything in between – of every price point imaginable. The DD chronograph module 2000 was first introduced by the company in the mid-1980s, but the firm dates back to 1901 and has a long history as a maker of complications up to and including repeaters; it was part of the consortium behind the 1969 Caliber 11, one of the first self-winding chronographs (and the first, as far as I know, to use a modular construction; the chronograph module was placed atop a micro-rotor movement from Buren). 

Like the Valjoux 7750, Dubois-Depraz chronograph modules allow a huge number of brands to offer a chronograph who might not otherwise be able to – developing an in-house chronograph movement (as opposed to cloning an existing design) is extremely expensive and can take many years. This deconstruction shows both a DD chronograph module as well as additional complications built onto it – a moonphase display and big date. One of the many interesting points in the article is that the chronograph is driven by a driving gear mounted on the center seconds pinion, which means you can add the module to pretty much any base movement with a center seconds hand. Though integrated and in-house chronograph movements will probably always represent, in the minds of enthusiasts, a more elevated solution, there is real ingenuity and engineering interest to be found in the work of Dubois-Depraz, which this deconstruction reveals.

The Audemars Piguet Caliber 4401 From The Code 11.59 Chronograph

The ever-controversial Code 11.59 watches have generated God knows how many keystrokes of commentary, most of which is naturally focused on the aesthetics of the watch. Of course, the new (well, I suppose, now not-so-new) collection was more than something new aesthetically – it also featured a very elaborate, multi-part case construction and new movements as well, one of the most impressive of which is a new chronograph caliber. 

The caliber 4401 is, like the watch overall, a combination of traditional and contemporary features. It's a column wheel, vertical clutch design which, according to the article, proved easy to disassemble and which seems to have been designed with sturdiness, reliability, and watchmaker-friendliness in mind. The deconstruction notes, "The act of dismantling the watch without any prior explanation or aid, was simple and logical despite the complexity of the piece."

The collection, I'm sure, will continue to produce expressions of divided views on the designs. However, one of the takeaways from the deconstruction of the caliber 4401 is that the movement is very much on the same continuum, in terms of aesthetics and technical elements, as the case, dial, and hands in particular and the watch overall. If you've ever wondered whether it's true that developing an in-house self-winding chronograph movement is a major technical challenge, the complexity of the caliber 4401 certainly tends to confirm the fact that making such a movement, starting out with a blank sheet of paper, is not an easy feat. (I remember asking Carole Forestier, during her tenure as chief movement designer for Cartier, whether a tourbillon or chronograph was more difficult to design, and she laughed at my having asked what to her was obviously kind of dumb question. Tourbillons, she said, are child's play compared to a chronograph, which is not what I was expecting to hear.) 

Not only does the deconstruction give you a watchmaker's-eye view of every component of the movement, but it also includes a lot of generally not widely known detail on the case construction and production processes behind the watch overall. The deconstruction of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph is a fascinating look under the hood of one of the most talked-about watches in the world.

The Grand Seiko 36,000 VPH Hi-Beat Caliber 9S85A

Grand Seiko overall enjoys a well-deserved reputation for over-delivering on quality, and although in recent years, as the brand continues to distinguish itself from Seiko, it has presented some new watches at price points that came as a surprise to long-time Grand Seiko fans, it has still continued to maintain its reputation in that respect. Grand Seiko is one of the few manufacturers today making time-and-date watches running at a higher frequency than the industry-standard 28,800 vph, and its Hi-Beat calibers and watches have become something of a signature product for the company as a result.

A close look through the caseback of a standard Grand Seiko mechanical model gives an impression not quite found anywhere else in modern watchmaking. The movement is not finished by hand to the extremely high level established by some of the company's higher-end watches – elaborate hand-finishing, such as that found in the Credor Eichi watches, is in the current Grand Seiko collection, typically found in watches like the 20th Anniversary Spring Drive and its caliber 9R02. But you do immediately get the feeling you are looking at a movement made to extremely high precision standards, and which has been designed for robustness and reliability.

The deconstruction of the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat, and the caliber 9S85A, tends to strongly confirm this impression. Transitions between finished surfaces in the movement are sharp enough to cut yourself, and the entire movement seems to have been designed around a philosophy of near-invulnerability to the elements, as does the watch overall. (Another GS deconstruction on the site notes the interesting fact that unlike conventional Geneva stripes, which are made with what's essentially a sanding process, GS stripes are made with a rotary diamond cutter, which contributes to the movement's uniquely Grand Seiko aesthetics.) The deconstruction spends some time dwelling on the crown tube, for instance, which is described as "one of the strongest case tubes ever machined," and in every aspect, the construction and execution of the watch and movement reflect the same perspective on durability – along, of course, with the signature GS devotion to flawless execution in such externals as the hands and dial. 

The Philippe Dufour Simplicity

Words like "craftsmanship" and "extraordinary" get thrown around a lot when discussing high-end watchmaking (I ought to know, because I have done a lot of the throwing over the years), but they are, it is widely held, entirely apt in the case of the watchmaking of Philippe Dufour, who in addition to having a genius for the construction of complications, is an internationally recognized master of the craft and art of high-end movement finishing.

This mastery is conspicuously on display in his Simplicity watches, which are mechanically speaking, watchmaking distilled to its essence (hey, the name's "Simplicity," ... just what it says on the tin). You can lose yourself in admiration of the finishing of every working and non-working surface until the cows come home, and because this is mechanically as basic as they come, you can see a great deal of the work that went into the watch without taking it apart. But this deconstruction goes further than just showing the beautiful execution of the movement top plate.

One of the most important characteristics of watchmaking at the high-end is that finish should be of uniform, excellent high quality throughout, and in deconstructing the movement, The Naked Watchmaker allows us to see that just as much craft has been exerted on the finish of components, such as the keyless works for winding and setting, which will never be seen by anyone except Dufour himself or another watchmaker. The deconstruction also shows the movement components in their unfinished state, and the transfiguration wrought by Dufour's expertise is an astonishing thing to see in this deconstruction of a Philippe Dufour Simplicity – as enormous a difference as that between a mound of pigments and a couple of bottles of linseed oil, and the Mona Lisa. 

Indeed, the entire Naked Watchmaker website is a visual treasure trove, and there is a greater variety of movements, watches, and other articles for the site to constitute almost an entire horological education in and of itself. We all have opinions, but if you want to have an informed one – or, at least, a less uninformed one – about horology, I cannot recommend the site highly enough. Vintage and modern Rolex, anyone?