In the arena of Patek Philippe, the perpetual calendar chronograph plays a singular and outsize role. When you consider the sheer quantity of auction catalog covers that such watches have graced, it would be fair to say that this combination of complications defines, on a certain level, what Patek is, or at least how it is viewed. Any day that Patek announces a new watch that advances what has become a great tradition of perpetual calendar chronographs is a big day in the world of watches. And that's what we have with the announcement of the Patek Philippe ref. 5270J – the first watch in this reference to feature a case made from yellow gold, which in itself, come to think of it, is somewhat surprising. After all, this watch has been offered in every single other precious metal option to date, and in some instances in various options per metal.
Since 2011, the flagship perpetual calendar chronograph from Patek Philippe has been the ref. 5270, a watch whose basic design can be traced back to what is probably the most legendary of Patek Philippe references, the 1518. Reference 5270 was a landmark debut for Patek Philippe when it was initially announced in white gold. It marked the first time that Patek had made a perpetual calendar chronograph with a fully in-house caliber. Previously, right up to and including the ref. 5970, Patek had used supplied ebauches as the base upon which it made all of its perpetual calendar chronographs. But as the conversation around watches evolved through the Aughts, the imperative to shift all facets of movement production in-house became inexorable, even for a company that's long been viewed as the unimpeachable watch king of Switzerland.
The 5270 has not had the smooth path to success that one would have expected given its historical antecedents. Sure, this reference offered a giant step forward in Patek Philippe's most visible complication type. But not everybody was immediately in love. Whereas the 1518, the 2499, the 3970, and, most recently, the 5970 are generally praised, the same has not necessarily always been so for the 5270. What gives? The cal. CH 29-535 PS Q is as good as any movement that Patek makes, and its level of finishing is commensurate with what one would expect of a watch of this caliber from a brand of this caliber. When Paul Boutros spent a week with the 5270, he had very positive things to say about the movement's performance. However, there were aspects of the design that some collectors faulted, starting with its size, which saw an increase of 1mm over the 40mm 5970, which was accentuated by large, ornate lugs. Having said that, on the wrist, the 5270 feels really good. I've not put hands on this new yellow-gold version, but I have had the opportunity to try on previous variations within the cozy confines of a Baselworld booth over the years. And while 41mm x 12.4mm doesn't read small on paper or translate to a dainty wearing experience, it does convey a certain gravity that I think works well.
With the next wave of 5270s, in 2013, Patek added a tachymeter, connecting the new reference back a bit to the 5970. This feature resulted in a bump at the lowest portion of the dial, which some in the collecting community derided as the "chin." (This controversial aspect of the design has since been remedied.) A major step forward came two years ago in Basel, with an extremely promising release in the form of the platinum 5270 with an exquisite salmon dial. With its vintage-evoking blackened gold baton numerals and handset, it was one of the most positively discussed watch introductions of the year from any brand. Some show attendees even ventured to say that it was just the shot in the arm that this reference may have needed; platinum being platinum, the 5270P became the reigning top dog of 5270s, which it remains to this day.
With this introduction, I would argue that the arc of the 5270 feels if not finished, certainly more whole. The current assortment of 5270s now includes the aforementioned vintage-inspired platinum version, a stunning all-rose variation on a bracelet, and as of today, classic warm yellow gold matched to a brown alligator strap. You now have three choices of 5270s in the PP current collection. White gold can be had in a few different flavors from years past.
And while this new version feels like the most conservative and predictable version that is currently available, I won't deny that it is a beauty. The silvery opaline dial of the 5270J has yellow-gold leaf hands for the hours and the minutes and applied yellow-gold markers. The apertures for the day, month, leap year, and day/night indicator have subtle inner frames. As with other recent 5270 introductions, the 5270J has a tachymeter scale sandwiched between an inner chapter for the minutes and an outer chapter for the chronograph seconds. The minutes chapter and part of the tachymeter scale are interrupted by the date display at six o'clock, as we've seen in recent introductions to this reference as well as in the 5970. One could argue that this is undesirable from a legibility standpoint, and particularly for a chronograph, which should be all about precision. Nonetheless, many have welcomed it as a solution to the aforementioned "chin."
The Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q inside is pure quality and, as you can see above, is very much in the vein of traditional chronograph architecture. It's a hand-wound column-wheel chronograph with lateral clutch, which makes for a very pleasurable experience when putting the chronograph through its paces while viewing the movement. It comes with a second caseback in yellow gold should you want a more traditional look or perhaps even to have it engraved.
While today's launch doesn't feel quite as big as the 5270P of two years ago (which, incidentally, debuted alongside the rose-gold version on a bracelet), a yellow-gold version with silvery opaline dial does feel like an essential part of this reference's story, perhaps even one that you could be forgiven for thinking already existed.
The Patek Philippe ref. 5270J Perpetual Calendar. 41mm x 12.4mm case in yellow gold with solid and sapphire casebacks. Silvery opaline dial with applied yellow-gold hour markers and yellow-gold leaf hands. Manually wound Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q beating at 28,800 vph with chronograph and perpetual calendar. Indications for the hours, minutes, and small seconds, as well as the day, the date, the month, the leap year, day and night, the phase of the moon, chronograph with instant 30-minute display. Power reserve of 55 hours to 65 hours. Movement measuring 32mm x 7mm. Matte chocolate brown alligator strap with yellow-gold folding clasp. Retail price: $168,970; see more at Patek.com.
We're thrilled to announce a new SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE watch, and we think you'll appreciate our latest source of inspiration: It's summer! The SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION is a clean and crisp homage to everyone's favorite season, which takes the overall design of the GENERATION 1986 model we released last fall and switches up the colors for a white-out look. And this time around, we've created a special companion piece for it: a Flik Flak watch with a complementary color scheme that is perfect for introducing any young child to wearing watches and telling time. It's a pair of watches fit for the whole family that epitomizes summer spirit, all while remaining in the accessible sweet spot for which Swatch and Flik Flak are known.
The SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION
This is our fourth collaboration with Swatch in as many years, and we appreciate each of the watches for a different reason. One of the core tenets of Swatch's success since the first Swatch watch was introduced in 1983 is the sheer variety of designs available, which heightens the inherent collectability of each new release. You could buy a Swatch for any outfit and any occasion, and neither your wallet nor watch collection would be any worse for wear. Around 10,000 different Swatch watches have been released in the past 37 years, resulting in some pretty wild and memorable designs. All we've ever wanted to do with our Swatch collaborations is to tap into the brand's rich aesthetic history and leave a mark of our own. We think we've done just that with the pristine, all-white look of the SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION.
We designed the SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION to be an essential part of your daily summer lifestyle. Whether you prefer espadrilles or sandals when hitting the beach, a Panama hat or a backwards cap when working in the yard, or if your summer goals simply involve sitting back with a cold drink when the sun is shining the brightest, the SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION will carry you through the season with ease.
Unlike the saturated designs that defined much of the early Swatch madness in the 1980s and '90s, we think that the SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION is compelling through the absence of color. The visual interest is led entirely by the refreshing white tone of the dial, case, silicone rubber strap, and buckle, and it's only disrupted by the punctuation of the hour markers in blue and black. The baton-style hands are filled with lume, and a date aperture is placed tidily at six o'clock.
There's always been something that's captivated us about the use of the color white in watch design. While we've long appreciated grey and dark tones, white is intriguing in a totally different way. It's incredibly difficult to get right, which is why you'll see brands typically prefer using off-white and silver colors. Though we've started to see more unconventional shades in recent times, the color white has remained generally elusive. The monochromatic nature of the SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION is our way of playing with the color, and we think the watch does a pretty great job of speaking for itself.
From the California coast and the Swiss Alps to hanging out at home, we hope the SWATCH SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION becomes the perfect distillation of your summer season. It's the same size as all of our previous SISTEM51 collaborations, and it retains the same interplay of funky hour markers (how many other watches in your collection feature circles, rectangles, and triangles on the dial?) as last fall's GENERATION 1986. Unlike other SWATCH SISTEM51 models – including our first collaboration with Swatch, the Vintage 84 – the white case of the HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION isn't translucent whatsoever. It's solid, white plastic with a crisp sheen that calls immediate attention to itself.
Like the GENERATION 1986 before it, the SISTEM51 movement inside the SUMMER EDITION features an anti-magnetic Nivachron™ hairspring, which is a titanium-based alloy that is resistant to magnetism, shocks, aging, and temperature variation. It is one of the Swatch Group's most recent proprietary inventions, and Swatch has gradually been implementing it into newer SISTEM51 releases. The SISTEM51 is, as you're likely aware, one of the most significant innovations in the Swiss watch industry over the past decade. First revealed in 2013, it's a self-winding movement built entirely in Switzerland through an automated process, from just 51 components – the same number of parts that comprised the original 1983 Swatch – with a bi-directional rotor that allows the watch to reach an impressive 90 hours of running autonomy. The SISTEM51 movement is visible through an exhibition caseback, and its mainplate and bridges have been color-printed with a unique HODINKEE-designed pattern, featuring interlocking "H" characters in blue and white.
You know it. You love it. It's Swatch. And it doesn't get much more fun than this. The SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION is available now for $170, right here.
The FLIK FLAK HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION
Swatch founded a subsidiary organization in 1987 called Flik Flak, with its primary goal being to provide a tool for teaching young children how to tell time in an interesting and interactive way. Since then, Flik Flak has worked with teachers and child psychologists to formulate unique and original designs that make telling time approachable and enjoyable. Flik Flak likes to say "it's never too early to be on time," and we're partial to agreeing with them. For many younger HODINKEE employees, Flik Flak watches acted as a gateway into developing an appreciation for watches as a whole, and other HODINKEE team members have gifted these fun and affordable watches to their children.
The best-known Flik Flak models incorporate an anthropomorphic handset named – you guessed it – Flik, for the minute hand, and Flak, for the hour hand. For our take on the Flik Flak family, we decided to forego these characters (sorry, guys!) in favor of a streamlined design that matches the summer aesthetic of the SWATCH SISTEM51. Education and legibility remained at the forefront of what we wanted to accomplish with the FLIK FLAK HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION, and you'll notice that the watch's full suite of timekeeping elements have been color-coordinated for ease of use. The hour hand and Arabic hour numerals on the dial are the same shade of matching dark blue; the minute hand and five-minute markers on the outer chapter ring are executed in black; and the seconds hand and outside hash marks are done in a cool ice blue that matches the seconds hand of the SISTEM51 HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION. Everything on the dial of this Flik Flak is there for a purpose: to share our passion for watches and watchmaking with the next generation, by setting them up for time-telling success. Swatch was playing the long game when it introduced Flik Flak in 1987, and over 30 years later, the brand still defines the children's watch genre.
The FLIK FLAK HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION has a 32mm hard plastic case in white that can actually be machine washed (just place it in a sock!), so there's no need to worry about the watch getting dirty during the natural messes that occur while growing up. The striped blue fabric strap is sourced from Italy, and the quartz movement inside comes from ETA in Switzerland. The dial is even subtly signed by ETA near the five o'clock marker! How cool is that? You can teach any young watch enthusiast about the history of ETA and the Swatch Group, while at the same time letting them know that their Flik Flak and your Swatch are built by the same people.
Flik Flak operates a quality control center in one of ETA's primary facilities, where each Flik Flak watch is tested for one month to ensure it can handle life on the wrist of any child. That means shock testing, water pressure testing, and ensuring that every single element of a Flik Flak watch is safe and approachable for kids of all ages. How many children's watches do you know that are not only produced entirely in Switzerland, but also undergo extensive rounds of quality control? These are watches you can trust, no matter the size of your wrist.
Oh, and did we mention that the FLIK FLAK HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION is priced at just $40? It's yet another example of how quality and cool Swiss watches don't have to break the bank. You can purchase yours right here.
The Fine Print
The entire HODINKEE team owns a number of Swatch watches in our personal collections, and many of us have fond memories of either wearing or gifting Flik Flak watches in our lives. Swatch and Flik Flak represent an essential element of the lifelong watch collecting experience, and our goal in designing this pair of watches was to share the joy we've experienced in collecting similar models with you and your family. The SWATCH SISTEM51 and FLIK FLAK HODINKEE SUMMER EDITIONS are available in the HODINKEE Shop today, so you too can share the collecting experience through these complementary designs.
Neither of these watches are numbered editions, but quantities are limited. The SWATCH SISTEM51 and FLIK FLAK HODINKEE SUMMER EDITIONS can be purchased in the HODINKEE Shop, and a smaller number will be available at Swatch stores in Switzerland, at the brand's location at Times Square in New York, and at Swatch online. You can learn more and purchase your own SWATCH SISTEM51 and FLIK FLAK HODINKEE SUMMER EDITION in the HODINKEE Shop today.
Last September, we brought you the story of 1st Lieutenant Barry Jones, Corpsman Lorrie McLaughlin, and a very special Tudor Submariner that was able to reconnect the veterans some 50 years after the battlefield in Vietnam sought to tear them apart. If you haven't watched the original video, please take a moment to learn the story of how this severely damaged Tudor came to be and how it was returned to 1st Lt. Jones in the exact same condition in which it left Da Nang in 1968.
As I mentioned in the original post, it is rare that a watch can transcend its original function and become something truly special. What started as a simple and reliable tool would become both a lasting link to a harrowing wartime experience and a cherished token to a bond that war could not break.
So where does the story go from here? Well, what if we told you that, after having the watch returned to him in its battle-damaged state, 1st Lt. Jones had hopes of seeing his storied Tudor restored and ready for another tour on wrist?
As it turns out, Tudor was listening and offered to have the watch rebuilt in-house by Rolex's restoration specialists. Tudor devised a plan to repair Barry's watch while maintaining as much of the original as possible; however, a series of considerable challenges would need to be overcome to bring this Tudor back up to spec. This would be a ground-up restoration completed entirely by hand at Rolex HQ in Geneva. The movement was entirely non-functional and would need to be fully rebuilt. The case, twisted and bent by a bullet, would need to be straightened. Likewise, the delicate hands and dial would need considerable attention if any of the components could be salvaged and re-used.
Using old-school techniques, including a hammer and a custom jig, the case was slowly straightened to a point where the tolerances could accept the movement, the crystal, the screwed caseback, and the crown and stem. This was painstaking work that required a surgeon's touch – even with a hammer. Even once massaged back into shape, the case still bore the scars of its former life.
Likewise, reassembly was a slow and considered process in which Barry's watch had to pass the muster of modern Tudor. It couldn't just run – it needed to run properly, as though it were new. As captured in the above video, I was fortunate enough to be in the room for some of these stages, including when the movement first started to tick again. It was quite a moment.
Once back together, it mostly looks like a proper old Tudor Sub. The original hour and minute hands were not re-lumed, the case's lugs have the correct inner dimension, but the damaged lug has not been restored. A period-correct bezel and matching crystal finish the project, and the watch is ready to return to life with Barry and his family.
If you've read this far and not watched the video, I implore you to take a few minutes and see the entire story come together. This was a rare and special opportunity, and I know I speak for all of HODINKEE when I extend my thanks and gratitude to 1st Lt. Barry Jones and Corpsman Lorrie McLaughlin for their openness to this project, their perspective, and of course, their service. Likewise, I would like to extend additional thanks to the entire team at Tudor and Rolex for the considerable effort put forth in restoring the Barry Jones Tudor Submariner.
Producer’s Note: When we first heard that Barry wanted to restore the bullet-dented Tudor Submariner from “The Long Return,” we will admit we had doubts that it could run again. Those doubts were quickly replaced by the excitement of being able to document the process, however it unfolded. Chasing this story took us from New York City and Toronto to Geneva and to the shadows of Mt. Hood, Oregon. It was made possible because we were given unprecedented access to the Rolex Restoration Workshop, and because of the unwavering good nature of Mr. Jones and Mr. McLaughlin. Thank you to all who made this possible. It was an honor. – Will Holloway
"The Long Return, Part II" was filmed by Will Holloway, David Aujero, Grey Korhonen, and Samuel Grandchamp; it was edited by David Aujero.
This year at IWC has been all about the refreshed Portugieser line of nautically inspired timepieces, which harken back to an important wristwatch made by IWC that used a large and accurate pocket watch movement. Today, we have a special edition of the sporty Portugieser Yacht Club to mark a new partnership between IWC and the British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown.
Orlebar Brown was founded after its Creative Director, Adam Brown, detected a disconnect between what typically well-dressed guys wear socializing and what they tend to put on when they go to the pool. While changing from a pair of swim trunks into something more appropriate for lunch, a light went on, and Brown realized he wanted a pair that would look great away from the pool too. When you look at a pair of Orlebar Brown swim trunks, you can see how traditional tailoring influences their construction. Side tab adjusters and a four-part shaped waistband keep things refined, fresh, and stylish when heading from an afternoon at the pool out to drinks with friends. Though the company's swimwear collections are regularly refreshed on a seasonal basis, each suit comes with a five-year guarantee. They're swim trunks made to look great and to last.
Earlier this year, IWC dropped three main line models as part of its 2020 focus on the Portugieser line. Aesthetically, the new special edition version bridges the designs of the blue dial and silver-plated dial variations that we covered back in April. It does this while dispensing with the stainless steel bracelet in favor of the rubber strap with co-branded buckle seen above.
A white toweling blazer with blue piping from the new Orlebar Brown x IWC capsule collection.
The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" is being launched right in time for summer, alongside Orlebar Brown's new nine-piece resort wear capsule collection, designed with IWC. With its nautically influenced design, rubber strap, and custom co-branded buckle (which is fashioned after an Orlebar Brown side tab adjuster), this feels like a fun twist on a perennial favorite from the IWC Portugieser collection.
Initial Thoughts
One of my favorite things about IWC's cal. 89361 flyback chronograph movement is its impact on the display. It allows for a clean and symmetrical two sub-dial layout while integrating chronograph hours and minutes into the upper sub-dial and reserving the lower one for a small hacking seconds. Usually, a chronograph would need three subdials to convey this much information.
The Portugieser is, of course, a watch whose formidable size is one of its most distinctive design elements, and this watch is certainly a Portugieser in that regard. At nearly 45mm in diameter, it could be a bit overwhelming to those who only wear watches on the smaller end of the spectrum. Still, it has a very classic design, and the fact that it's a sporty chronograph on a rubber strap makes me think that this could be a pretty killer watch for these current warmer months.
Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Blue and silver-plated dial Indexes: Rhodium-plated appliques Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 6 bar Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
The Movement
Caliber: IWC 89361 Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, flyback chronograph with chronograph hours and minutes in sub-dial at 12 o'clock, date Power Reserve: 68 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 38
Pricing & Availability
Price: $12,500 Availability: July 2020
For more on the watch, click here, and for more on the capsule collection, click here.
If NOMOS sees further, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants. While the young German brand may represent the future of German watchmaking, they certainly aren't shy about paying respect to its past. The origins of the watchmaking tradition in Glashutte date back 175 years to 1845. Today, NOMOS is releasing a trio of watches that tip the Tyrolean hat to the greats that laid the groundwork for Glashütte to become the epicenter of Teutonic watchmaking.
The Ludwig neomatik 39
Using the Ludwig model as a starting point, NOMOS has created three limited-edition versions of the classic model. To start with, there's the Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte; this model features the NOMOS hand-wound Alpha caliber. The other two models in the range feature an automatic caliber. These are the Ludwig neomatik 39 and the Ludwig neomatik 41 date. All three models are regulated to chronometer standards, NOMOS says; they are not, however, certified as chronometers. And they all feature aesthetic elements that honor a longstanding tradition. There's a polished enamel-white dial paired with rounded leaf hands that are blued, just like the pocket watches being cranked out of Glashütte over a century ago. The Ludwig neomatik 41 date features a date wheel with the date printed in Roman numerals to match the dial. This is a first for NOMOS, and while it's a small detail, that's what NOMOS is all about. Getting every small detail right to come together into an exceptional overall package.
The Ludwig neomatik 41 date
Initial Thoughts
The longstanding tradition of watchmaking in the region begins with A. Lange & Söhne. It was in 1845, 175 years ago, when Adolf Lange officially set up his workshop after receiving a go-ahead from the government of Saxony after he submitted a proposal that called for Glashütte to follow in the footsteps of the Vallée de Joux, which had seen tremendous success as a watchmaking capital.
The movement gained momentum and drew two additional figures into the fold: Moritz Grossman and Julius Assmann. These three pioneers opened up Deutsche Uhrmacherschule (the German watchmaking school), a healthy network of suppliers, and this growing movement spawned a number of watch manufacturers that still exist today. The German Watchmaking School even taught students up until 1942. Today, NOMOS plays a significant part in sustaining modern watchmaking in Glashütte and maintaining a tradition of excellence.
Dial detail of the Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
It is this rich tradition this trio of NOMOS watches honors. It's important to pay respect to your elders, and it's refreshing to see NOMOS acknowledge the hard work of the folks who laid the foundation in the middle of the 19th century that paved the way for their own success. They did it by producing a trio of watches that revive an aesthetic that was once popular in pocket watches produced in the region over a century ago. It's all very poetic.
The date wheel on the Ludwig neomatik 41 date
To appreciate NOMOS is to appreciate the entire Glashütte tradition; watches from NOMOS perfectly encapsulate the same sort of independent tradition fostered there since the early days. The Ludwig model has been around since 1992, a sign that NOMOS is building its own heritage. The typical elegant simplicity from NOMOS and the in-house movements that make all of the NOMOS watches an interesting value proposition also make this new limited edition series worth taking a look at. But it's the idea that this watch is meant to exemplify a storied history of 175 years of watchmaking that makes it even more significant.
The Basics
Brand: NOMOS Model: Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte, the Ludwig neomatik 39, the Ludwig neomatik 41 date Diameter: 35mm (Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte), 39mm (the Ludwig neomatik 39), 41mm (the Ludwig neomatik 41 date) Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Enamel-white Indexes: Roman numerals Lume: None present Water Resistance: 30 meters for all models Strap/Bracelet: Strap, black leather
The Movement
Caliber: NOMOS Alpha (Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte), DUW 3001 (the Ludwig neomatik 39), DUW 60101 (the Ludwig neomatik 41 date) Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds (Alpha and DUW 3001). Hours, minutes, small seconds, date (DUW 6101) Diameter: 23.3mm (Alpha Caliber) 28.8mm (DUW 3001) Power Reserve: 43 hours (Alpha Caliber) 42 hours (DUW 3001) Winding: Manual (Alpha Caliber) Automatic (DUW 3001 and DUW 6101) Frequency: 21,600 (Alpha Caliber, DUW 3001, DUW 6101) Jewels: 17 (Alpha Caliber) 27 (DUW 3001, DUW 6101)
Pricing & Availability
Price: Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte: $2,260, Ludwig neomatik 39 – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte: $3,800, Ludwig neomatik 41 date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte: $4,200 Availability: Available at retailers from mid-July. Limited Edition: 175 examples of each of the three models.
Welcome back to another Wednesday round-up of vintage watches in the HODINKEE Shop. In today's selection, we have a watch from each decade starting from the 1950s to the 1990s. There are a variety of chronographs to choose from featuring wildly different styling as well as a couple of gold options. We even included a Submariner for good measure. Sit back and relax, it's time for vintage.
1960s Universal Genève Compax Ref. 885103/01
Universal Genève began producing the Compax chronograph in the 1930s, and over time, the brand released a huge number of variations. The vast differences in design among each successive reference was a testament to their era. Each model's appearance was influenced by what was popular in watchmaking at the date of its production, resulting in a very diverse family of watches. Every decade saw a distinct design evolution, and this present example from the 1960s has a sporty, racing-influenced look with a style similar to the Rolex Daytona of the era – it's even powered by the same Valjoux 72 movement. Although this Compax has a slight aesthetic resemblance to the Daytona, it stands out on its own physical attributes.
1954 Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal Ref. 4838
Vacheron Constantin created a number of different Chronomètre Royal models over the years, and the example we have here is one of the earlier executions in the form of a wristwatch. Its distinguishing features include the thick straight lugs, the 35mm case diameter with an extra-wide bezel, and a small seconds at six o'clock on the dial. The use of pink gold for the case metal adds warmth to the overall aesthetic, and inside is a manually wound movement. These time-only Vacheron Constantins offer great value for collectors who enjoy precious-metal dress watches, especially when compared to other watches of a similar quality.
1970s Zenith 'TV' El Primero Ref. 01.0200.415
The Zenith El Primero was released in 1969 as one of the world's first automatic chronographs. Many collectors are familiar with the ref. A386, A385, or G381 versions of the El Primero, but Zenith used this caliber in other models as well, including the reference we have here: the ref. 01.0200.415 (which later became known as the "TV" due to its bold case design). The "TV" comes in a totally different package than most expect of an El Primero. The stainless steel case has a large, squarish shape that connects to an integrated bracelet that tapers at the clasp. Zenith offered this watch with a beautiful blue dial that, depending on the light, can look darker or brighter due to the reflection of the deep rehaut with tachymeter scale. All the text on the dial is in white, giving the watch some extra contrast for legibility.
The Full Set
In addition to the three highlights above, we have a cool 1980s Heuer chronograph with a pewter PVD-coated case, a classic 1993 Tudor Submariner ref. 79090 with box and papers, and a beautiful 1970 Rolex Day-Date with a silver linen dial. Head on over to the HODINKEE Shop to take a closer look!
Each and every Wednesday, we present a fresh installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Levon Shant Ekmekjian, Howie Woiwod, George Kidwell, Ibrahim Chowdhury, and Nicholas Delaney.
Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story.
Levon Shant Ekmekjian And His Swatch Chronograph
Levon, a descendent of survivors of the Armenian genocide, was born in Aleppo, Syria. His mother bought him this Swatch chronograph when they were escaping the Syrian Civil War, replacing a watch from his father that had been stolen. He's been wearing it for almost a decade – through deportations and refugee camps – and it shows its wear. Currently, he's an English and communications major at the American University of Armenia, and he looks forward to creating happier memories with his Swatch on his wrist.
Howie Woiwod And His Gruen Airflight
When Howie, a watchmaker in Vancouver, was in watchmaking school, a fellow student brought in a box of miscellaneous watches and movements for the taking. Howie grabbed a bunch of pieces, and when he went through them again recently, found that he had a Gruen Airflight movement. After searching, he was able to find an unused display Airflight to house the movement – and is now the proud owner of a practically new Gruen Airflight.
George Kidwell And His TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph
When George, who is from the UK, was 12, he went on vacation with his parents. He saw a TAG Heuer Formula 1 at the airport and fell immediately in love – but didn't have the means to buy it. But he never forgot it; six years later, when he got his first job, he still wanted it – and found a used version online. He still remembers the feeling of accomplishment when he first put it on.
Ibrahim Chowdhury And His Wife's Patek Philippe Ref. 4522
Ibrahim was born in Bangladesh, grew up in Germany, and currently lives in Egypt. In 2007, he bought this Patek ladies' watch for his wife to commemorate the birth of their son. Importantly, it was also manufactured in 1980 – his wife's birth year. They also have a daughter, who was born in 2008, and he hopes the watch will be passed on to her one day.
Nicholas, who is from Philadelphia, is the proud owner of his late grandfather's 1970s Rolex Date. His grandparents immigrated to New York from China in 1974, and his grandfather wore this watch every day until he passed away in the early 1990s. Nicholas' grandmother gave it to him when he was 11, but it was not until he developed an interest in watches in his 20s that he got it serviced and working again.
Ready To Submit Your Own Watch Story? Here's How It Works
1. Pick one watch that is very special to you, and get your camera phone ready.
2. Record a video telling us your most interesting or meaningful story about your watch. Let's say 2-3 minutes is the sweet spot – if you go longer, that's okay. (And please remember to introduce yourself: your name and where you are from.)
3. Get creative, keep it clean, and have fun!
4. Take some photos on the wrist and a few shots of the watch so that we can proudly display them on our site. Horizontal, please.
5. To share your video and photos, you can either A) upload here; or B) upload to your preferred large file transfer service and send a link to mywatchstory@hodinkee.com.
Porsche Design was originally founded by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, who left Porsche to found the Porsche Design Studio in 1972. "Butzi," as he was nicknamed, is most famous not for the watches he created after leaving the company, but for the design of the 911. His wristwatch designs have not left as deep and indelible a mark on horology as the 911 did on automotive design, but they are still a significant part of watch design history, and they remain, for the most part, as instantly recognizable as the inarguably more famous automobile. The very first Porsche Design watch was an all-black chronograph from the first year of Porsche Design's existence, and today, the watch still looks very contemporary – significantly ahead of its time and a template for many other watches, from many other companies, which would follow.
Porsche Design all-black chronograph, 1972.
Porsche Design (or, I should say more correctly, Studio F. A. Porsche), in a move designed to strengthen the ties between the auto manufacturer and the design studio – and also to provide a strong experiential link for 911 owners between the car and its wristwatches – has just launched a custom timepiece program with an online configurator which closely parallels the experience you get designing your own 911 with the online car configurator. Meaning you can get a watch which is not just connected by general design DNA to your 911, but one which matches it directly in many physical characteristics as well.
Interestingly enough, Porsche Design has for the first outing of the watch configurator restricted itself to a single chronograph model, but this decision is easier to understand when you look at the number of possible variations. You can order just about every part of the watch with a custom finish or in a custom color. The process begins by selecting a case finish – here, you have just two choices, which are glass bead-blasted titanium or PVD black, but once you have chosen one or the other, the configurator begins to generate tens, then thousands of different configurations.
The idea, says Porsche Design, was to create a watch configurator that mirrors as much as possible the experience of using the car configurator. Now, it goes without saying that the match is not an exact one – after all, a 911 has an enormously greater number of possible choices. They include (if you've never played around with the 911 configurator, which is a very enjoyable if potentially extremely expensive way to pass an afternoon – an extra twelve hundred bucks for some brushed aluminum in the cockpit? Sign me up!) everything from performance options to interior and exterior cosmetics, to rims, to such details as custom valve tubes, and on and on. Still, the watch configurator gives you an indisputably huge number of possible choices as well, and creating a watch to match your 911's exterior and interior trim is possible pretty much no matter what you've decided to do with the car.
If you take all the possible configurations into account, there are, says the Studio, some 1.5 million possible versions (there are some 300 or so possible variations on the strap alone). One of the most customizable aspects of the watch is actually the view from the back. Here, you can choose from a range of different configurations for the winding rotor, which are based on the various rims available for the 911 and which offer probably the clearest direct link visually to the cars (all five of the currently available rims for the car have been adapted to rotors as well).
The basic case shape is that of the existing Chronotimer, and it's one of the more traditional case shapes currently in Porsche Design's timepiece lineup. It's 42mm in diameter and water resistant to 5 bar/50 meters, and overall has a smooth-flowing, slightly biomorphic feel, which gives it a bit more of a sense of a direct link in design language to the 911 than you get from some of the more angular models Porsche Design makes. In pretty much every respect, it's a case and design which is in line with F. A. Porsche's vision of purpose-driven design. The various elements err very much on the side of spareness and clarity – this is technically a three-register chronograph, but it feels very much like a two-register design, thanks to the suppression of the sub-seconds dial at 9:00 (which is legible enough to allow the watch to be set to seconds-level accuracy, but only just).
The movement, speaking of accuracy, is Porsche Design's WERK 01.100; this is a COSC-certified flyback automatic chronograph, with a 48-hour power reserve. The basic movement architecture has an obvious similarity to the ETA 7750, but there are some significant differences as well (including the addition of the flyback function).
The implementation of the watch configurator meant adopting a supply chain which is unusual for the watch industry, in which the norm is to order some components from suppliers, manufacture others oneself (the extent to which a manufacturer does one or the other varies enormously from brand to brand, obviously), and then assemble the watches under one roof, in a more or less homogenous production run. In the case of these new custom timepieces, however, Porsche Design has established an arrangement with its suppliers which allows it to source various components on an as-needed basis for individual watches, each one of which is to a greater or lesser extent unique, depending on the choices made by the prospective watch owner. Once you're done designing your watch, your design receives a unique identifying number. This number can be accepted by any Porsche dealer, and the orders for the various components go out from Porsche Design to its suppliers; the whole process takes eight to twelve weeks, and if you want, you can pick up your new watch at the same time you pick up your new 911.
Because the whole concept behind the watch configurator is to reproduce the aesthetics of the car as closely as possible in the watch, Porsche Design has gone to rather elaborate lengths to ensure things like paint, leather, and stitching correspond closely to their automotive counterparts. The yarn used for stitching the leather straps is the same used in the car upholstery. Color matching between car and watch was apparently a non-trivial challenge, as the technical requirements are different in each case, and the colors appear differently depending on the material to which they are applied. Simply using the same paints on the watch that are used on the car would not have produced satisfactory results, and so new paint formulations had to be devised. You can, if you wish, order up to three additional straps, and straps and bracelets can be quickly and easily swapped out, thanks to a pushbutton-actuated quick-change strap system.
Prices start at $6,000 and go up to $12,500 depending on options chosen and configuration. Right now, the online watch configurator is German-language only, as the program has not yet been rolled out worldwide, but you can expect to see it debut in the USA this September – the ultimate 911 accessory for what is still, for many, the world's most desirable sports car.
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Hot Dive Watch Summer continues with Jason taking delivery of a strapping new ana-digi Seiko as James continues to work through review units by spending some quality time with the latest and greatest from Sinn. If you want to talk about sport watches, this is your episode.
For the main topic, the TGN boys revive an old show format called "On Paper, On Wrist" in which they team up to review a watch that one of them hasn't seen and the other has on wrist. For this installment, Jason and James are offering some in-depth feedback on the new smaller line of Seiko Prospex dive watches via James' new SPB143 (SBDC101). After that, keep the tape rolling for a dive beneath the pyramids, the black market of bourbon, and a look at how giant ships are built. Just press play, and thanks for listening!
Who said major watch brands never listen to their enthusiast audience? Zodiac certainly has, and today, the proof is presented in the metal. Meet the newest colorway of the Super Sea Wolf GMT family: sherbet orange and cream. Last summer, Zodiac let fans on Instagram decide which watch would come to fruition from among a number of mock-ups. You're looking at the result.
At Baselworld 2019, Zodiac unveiled a brand new Aerospace GMT model. It spoke to collectors for its fun colorways and friendly price tag, but like many watches that strike a chord with the collecting community, it sold out shortly after it was released. Only 182 examples of each of the two versions were produced. The watch came with a funky blue and orange GMT bezel or a more conservative greyish-green and black GMT bezel. Inside was the old GMT workhorse, the ETA 2893-2.
This summer's sherbet orange and cream edition follows the same format, but this time, Zodiac has made 282 examples available instead of 182. The rapidly extinguished supply of the initial release has demonstrated that the demand is there, so why not make more enthusiasts happy by making more watches? After all, they left it up to fans of the brand to decide which watch to produce. It's these kinds of logical and democratic-minded decisions that make modern Zodiac incredibly compelling.
The new Super Sea Wolf GMT uses the same ETA 2893-2, the same 40mm case that wears smaller than it measures, and the same bracelet with polished center links. It's simply a new colorway, but there is a charming historical tie-in.
Initial Thoughts
In the '50s and '60s, Zodiac produced watches for the many, touting reliability, affordability, and durability. The advent of SCUBA and skin diving gave rise to a new market for dive watches that were accessible and attractive. The "dive watch" archetype was in its infancy back when Zodiac was king, and while iconic watches like the Submariner rose in tandem with watches like the Super Sea Wolf and Aerospace GMT, they have always existed in different tiers of the market. Zodiac used pulp adventure comics in its advertisements and has always been light, fun, and designed for folks who want a piece of equipment that doesn't break the bank. The Sea Wolf was even favored by GIs in Vietnam when their issued watches failed. They were popular at PX shops.
The creation story of the Zodiac Aerospace GMT starts, and ends, with the Sea Wolf. In the '60s, off the back of the success of the Sea Wolf, Zodiac responded to the burgeoning jet age by taking the case design and visual language from the Sea Wolf, dropping in a GMT-capable movement, and adding a bi-color GMT bezel. This was the birth of the Aerospace GMT.
In 2019, the Aerospace GMT re-emerged as a limited edition, but Zodiac has since switched to the naming convention of the "Super Sea Wolf GMT Automatic," linking to the model's heritage. It's slightly confusing, but the takeaway is that this Super Sea Wolf GMT is a direct descendant of the Aerospace GMT of the '60s. It's aviation-focused and meant to cross time zones.
As far as heritage is concerned, there's another reference to the Zodiac models of yore. Years ago, I came across a Zodiac Sea Wolf model at a vintage shop in Japan that was hard to ignore. It wore a highlighter-orange chapter ring and scale on the bezel. Visually, it was loud, but not obnoxiously so – it was balanced enough that I decided to snag it. Bright orange is hard to resist. We're hardwired to pay attention to a color like that.
This new colorway, chosen by Zodiac fans, seems close in spirit to the orange-and-silver aesthetic that can be found on certain Zodiacs from the '60s, like the Sea Wolf I bought in Japan. The modern rendition is a slightly muted orange, and there's a hint of blue in the form of the GMT scale on the bezel. The dial is a flat white, and the markers almost have the effect of being mirror polished. They pop against the dial, making it legible and just slightly flashy. The Super Sea Wolf GMT plays with textures in an interesting way, like the sheen of the mineral glass-covered bezel against a flat white dial, and the way the polished indices match the polished center links and bevels in the case.
After the success of previous iterations of this watch, Zodiac is back to give us what we want, and little has changed. Well, the color has, but hey, you asked for it!
The Basics
Brand: Zodiac Model: Super Sea Wolf GMT Automatic Reference Number: ZO9403
Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 14mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: White Indexes: Polished stainless steel Lume: Present, Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 200 meters Strap/Bracelet: Bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: ETA 2893-2 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, date Diameter: 25.6mm Power Reserve: 42 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Jewels: 21
Pricing & Availability
Price: $1,695 Availability: Online at Zodiac and authorized dealers. Limited Edition: Yes, 282 examples will be available.
Editor's note: Watch companies sometimes announce new products to the HODINKEE editorial team and the HODINKEE Shop at the same time. Please note that the editorial team and the Shop team produce their content independently of each other.
In all the years that I've been writing about Jaeger-LeCoultre, I really thought that I'd seen everything at this point. Gyrotourbillons, ultra-thin watches, square Reversos (remember those? the Squadra, gone but not forgotten), lubricant-free high-tech concept watches (the Extreme LAB), complications of every description – well, the list is long. Apparently, however, there is one thing which I have not seen and which nobody else has seen either from JLC, and that is a complete calendar chronograph with moon-phase. Jaeger-LeCoultre says that they have never done one before, and they should know, but as Jon Bues wrote in his Introducing coverage it still comes as a surprise to hear it – if you'd shown me this watch without any introduction and said, "Hey, this is such a great watch and you've never covered it in all these years, what's the deal?" I'd have blushed and felt as if I'd been both unobservant and derelict in my duties as a consumer journalist.
This is all by way of saying, and I mean this as a compliment, that the new Master Control Chronograph Calendar looks as if it has been part of the JLC lineup for a long time. There are reasons for that, of course: The general layout of the watch is very much one intended to appeal to traditionalists, and the combination of these two complications is a traditionalist's favorite as well. Perhaps the best-known vintage implementation is the hand-would Valjoux 88, which was produced, at least for a Valjoux chronograph movement, in surprisingly small numbers. The first impression you get of this watch, therefore, is of a timepiece that, if new as a complication to its maker (which I still can't quite believe) is certainly not new to watchmaking or to wristwatch design.
The Master Control Chronograph Calendar is part of the larger Master Control Collection, which was relaunched this year with redesigned cases whose basic profile was derived from JLC's flagship complication for 2020 (at least so far), which is the Master Grand Tradition Grand Complication. That watch debuted with a slimmer profile to the lugs, which had also been opened up (although not actually openworked) with recesses along their flanks, as well as the case middle. The result was a version of the watch that seemed both more in line with the vocabulary of classic watchmaking, as well as more light and graceful. The recesses in the lugs and case middle haven't been carried over to the Master Control line, and this is all to the good as it would seem affected in the context of these watches, but the sense of subtle grace is still present, helped along by a crisper transition from case to lugs, and a slightly more emphatic sense of geometry overall.
If there is little or nothing to complain of in terms of overall aesthetics, there is also certainly nothing to complain of in terms of fit and finish. While Jaeger-LeCoultre takes a back seat to no one – and I do mean no one – when it comes to the high-end horological decorative crafts sometimes referred to collectively as metiers d'art, there is another, more accessible, and just as important side to its character, which has to do with unostentatious excellence in daily wear mechanical watches. The case details in the Master Control Chronograph Calendar are not an overt paean to the decorative potential of steel; rather, they are intended to form a frame which, while it does not distract from the functionality of the watch, at the same time offers a reassuring sense of solidity and attention to detail should you wish to inspect the watch closely.
I think the dial of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar is exceedingly beautiful and well organized. There are no tricks being played here, in particular – just good, solid, clarity of design. This could indeed easily be mistaken for a complicated gent's watch from the 1950s, although one thing that gives away the modernity of the watch is the crispness and clarity of the printing and dial furniture, as well as the equally crisp starry background to the lunar disk on the moon-phase display. I think that the dial works as well as it does as much for what JLC decided not to do, as for what it decided to do. The only slight quibble I have with the dial overall is that against the white dial, the highly polished hour and minute hands can sometimes be slightly difficult to pick out, but I certainly didn't find that to be a fatal issue in terms of on-the-wrist legibility and utility.
The urge to fiddle for the sake of fiddling is very often on display in modern watchmaking, and it seems to become more and more noticeable and less and less successful as prices increase. The problem has always seemed to me to be at its most acute in chronographs, which seem to have the ability to bring out the worst in watch designers like no other complication. In this case, however, the level of detail feels entirely appropriate to the overall identity of the watch, and contributes a great deal to the impression that it gives of something intended to be a daily companion, and not just another more or less static addition to a collection.
For a full evaluation of chronometric performance, we would have had to do a full Week On The Wrist (which I would very much like to do with this watch at some point; I think it merits it and then some), but there is no reason to expect anything other than excellent performance from the movement. The movement, caliber 759, has some new-to-the-collection features, including the use of silicon components in the lever and escapement, and is a column-wheel-controlled, vertical-clutch mechanism; it also has a freesprung, adjustable mass balance, which has become more or less the standard in modern high-grade movements. It looks quite handsome and sturdy through the sapphire display back.
The watch overall boasts very wearable-sounding dimensions – the case is 40mm x 12.05mm and water resistant to 50 meters. You could, of course, object that this would be an even more historically resonant watch in a smaller diameter, but after all, 40mm is hardly a Brobdingnagian dimension, and the width-to-thickness ratio makes for a watch you'd expect to feel quite comfortable on the wrist.
And you would be right. This is an immensely pleasurable watch to wear, and I make no bones about it; I didn't want to give it back. I don't generally feel a terribly strong desire to actually own watches, largely because, for many years, it has been my privilege to experience so many of them; I suppose I am rather like a restaurant critic in that respect, who for all they are passionate about food may not particularly feel the itch to own a restaurant. But I think this would be a damned fine wristwatch to wake up to every morning, to look at during the day, to use to mark the passage of the months and moons, and to put down on the bedside table at the end of a long day and have its calmly purposeful, beautifully balanced countenance the last thing I see before lights out.
This brings us, inevitably, to The Unpleasant Matter Of The Bill; in steel, this is a $14,500 watch. I wish it were less expensive, but I think part of that may be because I have been around long enough to remember when, across the board, prices for fine watches from Switzerland were a fraction of what they are today, and I basically wish everything was less expensive. I probably ought to put my Zen Buddhism where my mouth is, though, and cultivate a spirit of, if not acceptance, at least resignation on that score; last I checked time's arrow only points one way. However, even at that price, you are getting an awful lot: a watch with a handsome diffidence, which is rather rare these days, and which achieves an identity of its own without resorting to either rote aping of a vintage model on the one hand, or novelty effects on the other. Plus, you are getting a watch from one of the most important names in Swiss fine watchmaking, and one whose reputation is based on real horological content to boot – Jaeger-LeCoultre likes to remind us that the company is sometimes called the Grande Maison in Switzerland, but given the firm's decades-long mastery of every kind of watchmaking imaginable, we should probably let them have that one.
I think the greatest compliment I can pay the Master Control Chronograph Calendar is to say that it does not feel like an attempt to broadcast affluence, or one's good taste, or to pay homage to something in the glorious past, or to break new ground technically or aesthetically. It is not a showcase for some fantastically demanding craft kept alive through the dark years of the Quartz Crisis by a devoted few; it is not intended to be an Instagram trophy, and it will not (at least, I think not) produce years of frustration in its fans as they idle on waiting lists. Instead, it has a rare, sole ambition: It wants to be a watch, and a damned good one, and at that it succeeds admirably.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar: Case, 40mm x 12.05mm, sapphire front and back, water resistant to 50 meters. Movement, JLC caliber 759, automatic chronograph, column-wheel-controlled with vertical-clutch coupling; silicon escapement components; 1,000-hour Master Control certification, adjusted in six positions; frequency, 4 Hz with 65-hour power reserve. Functions: hours, minutes, running seconds at 9:00; chronograph with complete calendar; display for the phase of the Moon. As shown, in steel, $14,500. Find out more at Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.
It's once again time to get down to the nitty-gritty, and oh, what a bunch we've got to do so with this week. Filling the slot of the hilariously epic "just because" watch is a white gold and diamond Royal Oak featuring a black aventurine dial, but we're still rooted in reality with picks like a tropical and high-flying Jardur Bezelmeter. Those that enjoy a good tale of the hunt are sure to get a kick out of the gilt-dial Explorer, and those that dig double signatures are covered too, with the inclusion of a Serpico y Laino-retailed Oyster Perpetual Date, and a Grand Seiko produced for Toyota. Shall we?
1963 Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016
My perspective on watch collecting has evolved drastically over the years. Unfortunately, things started off fast and furious with what in retrospect felt like a continual quest to one-up myself. Having said that, I did learn over time to appreciate focusing down a collection, and really making watches your own. All the while, the hunt for that next great watch always stood out as the most exciting facet of collecting, and if there's a story that supports this notion, it's that of the first pick of the week.
You're looking at an especially clean example of the Ref. 1016 — widely regarded in vintage watch collecting circles as the ultimate Explorer and an ideal single watch. What makes this one most interesting is how it originally emerged fresh to market. A short while back, this watch was discovered by a collector in a Connecticut estate sale, who jumped through hoops with the help of friends to secure the proverbial bag, as one does. This is proof that hunting high and low does indeed pay off, and it is why I start and end my days with online watch scours.
Though I love a good story, the watch itself in this instance is worth talking about. The example dates to 1963 and is fitted with a stunning, gloss gilt, chapter ring dial. Also included and original to the watch is a green Rolex box, which indicates it was first sold at Philippe Béguin in Geneva. Philippe Béguin is the same retailer who originally sold the later record-setting Ref. 6062 "Bao Dai," and while this doesn't guide the price in any way whatsoever, it's an exciting detail worth noting. Should you be on the hunt for a gilt-dial Explorer of the cleanest variety (even with the replacement hands mentioned in the seller's post), I'd suggest reviewing what this one brings to the table.
A collector on the Omega Forum is asking $26,000 for this Ref. 1016. Find out more and get in touch by following the link.
1993 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 14813BC
It's always exciting to see a class of wristwatches come into vogue after years of admiration, which is exactly what I see happening with exotic variants of the Royal Oak as of late. As jeweled and stone dial-fitted Day Dates have grown increasingly more popular, I think it's safe to say many are now looking in different directions than those they'd have considered before, and that of the exotic Royal Oak is perhaps the best direction to look in. Though I do tend to teeter into Rolex fanboy territory, I'd deem this next piece to be a more compelling buy than a Stella-dial President, which trades for comparable money in similarly jeweled configurations.
There are no two ways about it: This is a decidedly luxurious watch in 18k white gold, with a diamond-set, black aventurine dial and matching diamond-set bezel. However, at only 36mm across, it's afforded a few stealth points, but we both know the word stealth has no business describing this one. The piece we're discussing is not only exceedingly luxurious, but also extremely uncommon, given how the bulk of stone dial Ref. 14813's were fitted with dials crafted from blue lapis lazuli. In all honesty, this is the first I've ever seen in this configuration, and I must say I'm obsessed.
Those who buy this sort of watch are in search of perfection, because after all, no one wants a Royal Oak that's both iced and worn out. Luckily, this example is exactly that — perfection. Lines are everything on this watch, and they're still clearly visible thanks to not a single instance of polishing in this piece's past. That's not to say there aren't signs of use, but the depth of the hallmarks surely speak to its condition. It's got every original accessory you could ask for, and it is simply downright gorgeous.
You'll find this one in the inventory of the Los Angeles dealer Craft & Tailored, where it's been priced at $55,000. Hit the link for the full scoop.
Jardur Bezelmeter
To fully understand our next pick and how it came to be, one must first have an understanding of Jardur as a company and its history in the field of precision instruments. Prior to entering the arena of watchmaking, the brand got its start in 1937 as the Jardur Import Company, after being founded by Samuel Klepper of New York. In the earliest days, the brand focused largely on the importation of accessories and tools for aviators, so much so that they'd later change their name in 1945 to the Jardur Aviation Company. With a breadth of experience in the production, sales, and service of flight instruments, the logical next step was to begin selling pilot's timepieces. Naturally, Jardur rose to the occasion in a singularly epic fashion with this chronograph.
The Bezelmeter is nearly all you could ask for in a wrist-mounted pilot's instrument that just so happens to tell the time and feature chronograph functionality. Using the bezel, you can track remaining flight time or an additional time zone. Using the red degreemeter scale in tandem with the chronograph, you can calculate just how much you're turning. Using the tachymeter, speed and distance traveled can be determined. All this to say, the Bezelmeter is capable and then some, and as the photos would surely indicate, it's certainly attractive, to boot.
My favorite details on this piece include the luminous-filled, cathedral-style hands that have aged to a rich tone of golden brown, along with the multi-colored dial itself, which has achieved tropical status after years of use and exposure to the elements. It is, however, important to note the small areas of damage found near the hand stack, which have likely come as a result of service over the years. Despite this, I'm still smitten and fascinated by the number of tones found within this tropical dial. This truly illuminates the uniqueness of every last tropical dial, making every last watch with one practically irreplaceable.
The dealer Rob Cooper is offering this chocolatey Jardur via an Instagram listing. It's priced to sell at $4,950. Get in touch by sliding into the DMs of @timewaits_4no1.
1965 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 1500
While I can get down with any watch and appreciate the individuality of different collections, there are, without a doubt, certain pieces that'll yield a big fat "meh" out of yours truly, including Rolex's pared-down Ref. 1500. Don't get me wrong, it's objectively an excellent watch, and one more than fit to be your one and only, but it just rarely has that extra something something to properly pique my interest. I'd now like to go against everything I've just said and show you an example with more than enough cool factor to its credit.
As we've discussed before, Serpico y Laino was a Venezuelan jeweler and retailer of Rolex watches, formed out of a partnership between two Italian ex-pats living in Caracas. Within the realm of Rolex collecting, the prominent South American retailer's name is one of the most sought after to find accompanying the coronet, but Serpico y Laino's signing of Rolex watches wasn't limited to dial embellishments. Upon flipping the piece over, you'll notice engraved text reading "S&L ACERO" on its caseback, indicating not only the timepiece's place of sale, but also the metal it was cased in. This engraving's visibility is always a welcome bonus, as it would indicate the example hasn't been overly polished in the past.
Apart from the coveted signature, this Rolex is also compelling thanks to the presence of its original boxes and papers, which surely don't help in fighting the urge to resist. Seeing a signature as important as this on any reference is special, but seeing it on a reference as unassuming as the 1500 puts it in a league of its own, in my opinion. It's a strange mix, but man oh man do they work well together. This one is most definitely deserving of some time on your radar this week.
Sotheby's is selling this Oyster Perpetual Date from the '60s in the latest of its weekly online sales. Its estimate has been set at $4,500 — $6,500. Get a closer look at this and the sale's other four lots here.
1969 Grand Seiko 61GS Ref. 6145-8000
Not all that long ago, it wasn't common for both North American and European collectors to know what a Grand Seiko was. But now, the legendary Japanese watchmaker's top-shelf offerings have undeniably worked their way into the mainstream. It's no little feat, but knowing Seiko and their clinical attention to detail, it's one that perhaps comes as little surprise. This development of focus in collecting has also resulted in many looking towards the back catalog for horological goodness, of which there is much to be had in the world of vintage Grand Seiko.
On its own, in a form as conventional as they come, the reference we're about to discuss is an outstanding watch to begin with, but given the obscurity-valuing ethos of this column, I couldn't just show you any old watch. With this in mind, allow me to introduce you to an example of the 61GS co-signed by Toyota. This watch would've presumably been produced for an executive of some level at the automaker, and given the importance played by both brands within Japanese corporate culture, this really is a blockbuster crossover of vintage horology. Factor in the powering Cal. 6145A's success in Astronomical Observatory Concours competitions, and you've got the full package.
In that finding something along these lines in mediocre condition is always a genuine bummer, I was especially delighted to see just how well this curiosity had been preserved. First things first: Its 37mm, Taro Tanaka-designed stainless steel case would appear to remain unpolished, which is always a terrific start in my books. Next, one must consider the fact that its dial is seemingly free of any flaws, effectively making it impossible to outdo the example in question. Despite having nothing but love and respect for the new references Grand Seiko is producing, I'd argue there's infinitely more going on with this piece than any GS produced in a year starting with the number 2.
Momentum Dubai has this double-signed Grand Seiko listed on its site with an asking price of $5,500. Additional details and photos can be found here.
In a recent comment, a HODINKEE Community member questioned the notion of a "summer watch" – and there is an argument to be made, certainly, that a good watch is not something that is bought for a season, but for the satisfaction it will bring over the years to its original owner, before it is passed down in the fullness of time to their beloved issue, who will never look at it without a softening of the eye as fond and imperishable memories crowd in, etc. etc. However, I like to think that there are times of the year when certain kinds of watches seem, not only more attractive than at other times of year, but positively irresistible. In that vein, I would like to put a thesis to you, gentle reader: the Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, which no one can object to referring to as the Rainbow Diver, is one heck of a great summer watch.
This is probably one of the more hotly anticipated summer releases. The news that Mido has been planning on bringing it back has been out for several days, as of this writing, and so far, the consensus seems to be that Mido has hit a home run, and I see no reason to offer a counterargument (which would be difficult to sustain anyway). The original version of this watch was the Powerwind 1000, ref. 5907, from 1961 – it was part of the Ocean Star line, which launched in 1959, right about the time that recreational scuba diving was really taking off around the world. The watch was not in production for all that long, going out of production in 1965. As a result, the Powerwind 1000, whose name refers to its 1,000-feet/300-meter water resistance (this without a screw-down crown, apparently), has become a very popular collectible for dive watch enthusiasts. I don't follow this particular segment of the vintage collectible watch market tremendously closely, but it looks as if these somewhat rare and very colorful vintage divers retail for close to the $10,000 mark these days – a considerable premium over most other contemporary Mido watches, it would seem.
The new version of the watch has some serious vintage-dive-watch street cred, but it is in other respects – especially technically – a modern watch. The case is stainless steel, 40.5mm, sans display back (naturally), although it does have the original's Ocean Star starfish, in relief; there is a sapphire box crystal. There is a screw-down crown, one-way turning bezel, and 200-meter water resistance. This is a step down from the 300 meters of the original, which had a one-piece case; Mido offered an unconditional guarantee of water resistance at depth, which they proudly pointed out in the original instruction manual. 200 meters, of course, is more than six hundred feet, which is well below the depths usually reached in recreational scuba diving, so if you want to take a new Ocean Star Decompression Timer underwater, you're more than covered.
The signature feature of the Ocean Star Decompression Timer (and of course, its ancestor from the 1960s) is the brightly colored decompression table on the dial. The decompression timer is used to tell you how long a decompression stop you'll need if you exceed the no-decompression limit of staying at 59 feet for 50 minutes. If you're into dive watches, you probably know the reason you need to decompress if you go below a certain depth for more than a certain time. Recreational scuba divers breathe a mixture of oxygen and nitrogen, and when you dive, you absorb nitrogen into the bloodstream. If you're not down too far for too long, the amount absorbed will dissipate harmlessly topside, but if you stay deeper longer, enough nitrogen is dissolved into the blood and other body fluids that, if you ascend too fast, bubbles will form (just like taking the top off a soda). This can cause severe pain, which makes the body curl in agony, giving the disease its name: the bends. Bad cases can cause joint and nerve damage and even be fatal.
This is a bad business, but the solution is to stop at a certain minimum safe depth – 3 meters will actually do it, although from what I have read, it is common practice today, depending on your dive profile, to make more than one stop at different depths, as dictated by your dive computer. The whole problem is very interesting; if you make more than one dive per day, you still have to be careful even after you surface, because you have residual nitrogen in your body which must be taken into account when you plan your next dive. Dive tables assume (including the one on this watch) that your entire dive prior to ascent is spent at the indicated depth, but if you are using a modern dive computer, you can shorten decompression time, as going to sixty meters for only five minutes, and then spending the rest of your time at shallower depths, does not require as long a decompression stop as spending the entire dive at maximum depth.
The decompression table on the watch is extremely easy to use. Vintage models would sometimes show depth in meters, sometimes in feet, and sometimes in both; the new watch is calibrated for both meters and feet. Once below the no-deco stop depth limit, you simply look at the maximum depth you will reach – say, 95 feet for the green ring – and then read along the ring clockwise until you reach the point that corresponds to how long you will be at depth. For the 95 feet/30 meters scale, you can see that if you spend 35 minutes at depth, you will be required to take a 15 minute stop at 3 meters. You can also see that if you spend less than 20 minutes at depth, no stop is required as you will not be at depth long enough to absorb enough nitrogen to cause the bends – of course, this assumes, as does the entire table, a so-called square dive profile, in which you descend directly to depth, and then ascend directly from that depth.
For divers and non-divers alike, the presence of the colorful decompression tables offers rather more in the realm of cosmetics than in that of practicality, but it gives the watch a pop and dazzle that seems to incarnate the very notion of a summer watch – especially for anyone who remembers with fondness the elation of the bell on the last day of school that marked the beginning of summer vacation.
If the dial is charmingly anachronistic, the movement is quite modern; inside is the Mido Caliber 80, which has a power reserve of 80 hours. The movement is part of a general trend across the Swatch Group to equip its watches with balance springs offering better resistance to magnetism than conventional Nivarox-type alloys, and to offer longer power reserves as well (even the Swatch now comes equipped with a titanium alloy balance spring, made of an alloy called Nivachron, which offers superior performance as well). The movement is an upgraded version of the ETA C07.621 and is adjusted in three positions; it should offer good performance as well as somewhat better resistance to drifting on its rate than a watch with a standard alloy balance.
I have said that I think this is a great summer watch, but I think there is more to it than that. It's a very striking timepiece which represents a larger part of the history of Mido, and it encourages us to reflect on the hazards inherent to exploration. Nowadays, much of the risk has been taken out of recreational scuba diving, and no sensible person would have it otherwise – especially divers, I am sure – but the somewhat seat-of-your-pants charm of yesteryear still has its appeal and recalls a time when a little risk was an exciting part of the equation, and when the dangers inherent in the activity were – within reason – part of the fun. Even in the dead of winter, I like to think that the aura of derring-do surrounding the era this watch represents will continue to provide satisfaction. After all, most of us will never dive, winter, spring, summer, or fall – and yet we may still wish to entertain pleasant fantasies of exploration and adventure in a brave new world beneath the sea. Why, just imagine what use a certain British naval commander moonlighting for MI5 might have made of one – perhaps whilst in the Bahamas, in the very year the watch debuted, on the trail of a sinister plot to blackmail the nations of the earth with their own atomic bombs – an operation code-named Thunderball ...
"Bond crept slowly along the pier, in the pre-dawn darkness, the air tanks he had stolen from the dive boat tide up to the wharf strapped to his back. He glanced down at the glowing hands of his Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer. He had no access to a proper dive table, and he thanked whatever guardian angel was looking after him that on this mission, he had chosen to wear this particular timepiece. The Vulcan, carrying its lethal payload, lay in a hundred feet of water and thanks to his watch and the dive table printed on its dial, Bond would know just how long he could spend below the waves, examining the wreck, before he would need to surface, whether he had verified that it still carried its deadly nuclear cargo ... or discovered that the bombs were already in the hands of SPECTRE ... "
The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961: case, two-piece, stainless steel, with sapphire box crystal; water resistance 200 meters. Diamond-cut hands filled with Super-LumiNova. Dial printed with decompression table show mandatory decompression time for various depths and times below non-decompression limits. Movement, Mido caliber 80, ETA C07.621 base, adjusted in three positions, with silicon balance spring; frequency, running at 21,600 vph in 25 jewels; 25.60mm x 5.22mm. A limited edition of 1,961 pieces worldwide; available now. Bracelet, braided polished stainless steel with quick-change spring bars; leather straps with matching stitching also available. Price, $1,250.
Editor's note: Watch companies sometimes announce new products to the HODINKEE editorial team and the HODINKEE Shop at the same time. Please note that the editorial team and the Shop team produce their content independently of each other.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph is a relatively new watch for the company – the complication was not introduced to the Grande Seconde collection until 2019, which I found notable at the time of the launch as the basic layout of the Grande Seconde dials certainly seems to lend itself to the complication. At launch, the Grande Seconde chronographs came in three steel models, which are a permanent part of the collection, and an 88-piece limited edition in rose gold. The limited edition had the sub-dials in a vertical orientation, forming the signature Grande Seconde figure-8 on the dial, but the steel pieces rotated the dial 30 degrees to the right, which is the configuration Jaquet Droz has chosen for the new onyx-dialed model.
As with the launch models, the movement is the caliber 26M5R, which is in turn based on the F. Piguet/Manufacture Blancpain caliber 1185; it's a column wheel controlled with a vertical clutch. The 26M5R has received several updates over the original caliber, and it has a silicon lever and balance spring, along with a freesprung, adjustable mass balance. This particular version of the movement has a very openworked rotor, in order to allow a more unobstructed view of the plates and bridges (always a good thing).
Onyx is a form of chalcedony, which has a very long history of use in the applied and decorative arts. It often appears in very distinctive, banded formations; the ancient Egyptians seem to have been there first, with records and archaeology showing use of the stone as early as the beginning of the Second Dynasty (circa 3000 BC). It has a distinctive high gloss and visual depth reminiscent of fired enamel, and here, it makes for a very dramatic version of the Grande Seconde Chronograph, where it joins a long history at Jaquet Droz of making large, ornate dials out of precious minerals, grand feu enamel, and other materials. While the case is steel, there is a bit of precious metal in the mix as well, in the form of a white-gold chapter ring around the sub-dial for the hour and minute hands. The chronograph has a very large center seconds hand and a smaller 30-minute counter, which also contains the hand and scale for the date indication. The date actually jumps from the 31st to the 1st, but in keeping with the clean, minimalist design of the dial, this is not overstated (in fact, it would be easy to miss at first glance). The only splashes of color on the dial are the red number 31 in the date chapter ring, and the red tip of the date hand. Although the deployment of color is sparse, it is, I think, essential to the success of the dial composition.
Initial Thoughts
The Grande Seconde collection, in general, is one of my favorite watches from any of the Swatch Group luxury brands. One thing I have always thought Jaquet Droz does extremely well is take good advantage of the larger size of the dials in order to create compositions and visual effects that make very good use of negative space. The company is rightly famed for its high-craft enamel dials, which often feature rather rare and difficult techniques such as paillonée. But the other side to its design history is the use of more spare designs which often feature novel implementations of various complications (the Douze Villes watch is one of the most aristocratic dual time-zone watches ever made, and not the least for its blithe disregard of 25 out of 37 of the world's time zones).
The Grande Seconde Chronograph avec cadran onyx is in a similarly aristocratic vein, in a good way. There is something very refreshing about the expansive dial, the monopusher configuration, and the generous disposition of numbers and chapter rings across the available space, and I very much like the fact that it is a 30-minute chronograph without hour totalizer – one feels that as an aristo, one should not be asked to have more than a half-hour attention span under any circumstances. It's a watch with a subdued but definite feeling of opulence, the steel case notwithstanding – a more relaxed take on telling and keeping track of time, and one which perhaps reminds us, in its understated luxuriousness, that time is a luxury as well.
The Basics
Brand: Jaquet Droz Model: Grande Seconde Chronograph
Diameter: 43mm Thickness: 14.83mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Onyx Lume: None Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Handmade alligator with 18k red gold or steel buckle
The Movement
Caliber: Jaquet Droz caliber 26MR, monopusher, column-wheel chronograph with vertical clutch Functions: Time, retrograde date display in large sub-dial, 30-minute chronograph Power Reserve: 40 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 21,600 vph Jewels: 34 jewels Additional Details: Silicon balance spring and pallet horns; freesprung, adjustable mass balance; openworked 18k gold oscillating mass (on all models, including steel)
Pricing & Availability
Price: $21,000 Availability: Currently available Limited Edition: No, regular production
Like many of you, the deeper I delve into the world of dive watches, the more I find that the space readily caters to those with big wrists and the taste for equally big watches. Consider, if you will, a wide range of rad dive watches like Omega Ploprof, the Citizen Promaster, Seiko Tunas, Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms, many an IWC Aquatimer, or the toolish bulk of the exceptionally German Sinn U1. Thankfully, while these examples highlight some great dive watches for those that can handle a large case size, those of us who find themselves a bit less wristy are not without some great options.
Alongside the ever-present Rolex Submariner and the smaller Omega Planet Ocean models, the past 5 years have seen a renewed focus on the popularity of "smaller" dive watches. Tired of not having the meaty wrist for a Panerai Submersible? We got a 42mm version in 2017. Want a smaller Tudor diver that wears like a vintage watch? I'm sure you've all heard of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. And it's not just the Swiss either: Seiko has demonstrated a renewed focus on sub-42mm divers and, as I'm sure you can gather (from the title and photos, duh), Sinn recently made a big splash by announcing a new smaller dive watch, the U50.
This is a watch that a lot of people have been waiting for, especially those who have owned and used any Sinn watches in the past. The German brand, which was founded by Helmut Sinn in 1961, has become a major presence in the modern tool watch landscape and makes some truly hardcore and incredibly tough watches. One such watch is the U1, a hardened steel dive watch in a burly, overachieving, and entirely modern package.
Commonly known and loved for their pilot's chronographs, Sinn launched the U1 in 2005 and went the extra mile in making the dive-focused model out of German submarine steel (used for its advanced resistance to saltwater). While the U1 is a lovely design, it also happens to wear like a submarine. Measuring some 44mm wide and nearly 15mm thick, while not the biggest of the watches listed above, the U1 was still something of an absolute unit. With that in mind, the new 41mm U50 offers something of a mid-size expression of the same stoically modern and highly-focused design language.
Jason Heaton diving with the Sinn U1 Professional.
Much like the standard U1 – and in stark contrast to the methodology currently common to dive watch design – the U50 is willfully modern. In terms of aesthetics, if so-called "new vintage" divers like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight or the Doxa Sub 300 50th Anniversary are the equivalent of getting a modern vinyl pressing of a classic record, the U50 is Spotify, and its design is meant to be as functional as possible (it's also plenty cool).
The U50 is available in three versions: The U50 (as seen here), the U50 SDR (which has a black bezel), and the U50 S (which has a black bezel and case). Buyers have the option of a "T" version for both the U50 and the U50 SDR, which adds Sinn's Tegiment hardening to the case (the hardening is standard for the bezels, and for both the bezel and the case of the U50 S). My loaner for this review (kindly provided by the good people at WatchBuys, Sinn's North American distributor) is a U50-T on a black rubber strap. Buyers can pick between black, red, or white rubber, and there is a bracelet option as well.
As mentioned, the U50 is 41mm across, 11.15mm thick, and 47mm lug to lug. Lug width is 20mm, and the U50 has drilled lugs (woohoo!), making strap changes nothing short of a breeze. Inside that now smaller case and covered by a solid case back, Sinn has fitted the U50 line with Sellita's SW300-1, a Swiss-made automatic movement with a date function. The SW300 is meant as direct competition for the higher-end expressions of ETA movements like the 2892-A2.
With 25 jewels and a 4 Hz heartbeat, the SW300-1 packs hacking, hand-winding, and some anti-magnetism (to DIN 8309 standards) into a footprint that is only 3.6mm thick. Compare that to the U1's SW200 movement, which is 4.6mm thick, and you start to see part of the wiggle room that allowed Sinn to give the U50 a profile that matched its new case size. While the 41mm sizing might have been what got you to take notice of the U50, Sinn has shaved some 3.55mm off the thickness of a U1, and it pays huge dividends on the smaller wrists (and tastes) of those who would be in the U50's core market.
This highlights the importance of more data in a time when more and more of us will be buying our watches online. Case width is just one measurement, like the 0-60 time for a car. The problem is, like 0-60, case width doesn't create a scenario in which all things are equal. With cars, some of the best review outlets also publish 5-60, assuming that a normal human buyer won't destroy their car in an attempt to match the very abusive testing techniques employed for many car reviews. The wonderful Jason Camissa recently wrote a piece about 5-60 for Road & Track, and while I think any interested party should certainly subscribe to their excellent and very inexpensive print magazine, they were kind enough to put the story online.
Informing the above position, Camissa relates the value of real-world data and shows that while a skilled driver with little concern for the car can get a BMW X2 M35i to 60 in a tested 4.6 seconds, the measured 5-60 was a much less impressive 6.4 seconds. But I know what you're asking, how does this relate to watches? And who cares about X2s?
While it's downright easy to think of dive watches that have a case-width measurement that is within your range of preference, case width alone is a flawed way of thinking about how a watch wears. To get a better idea, many of you know you need to consider the thickness and the lug to lug measurement. Ideally, you need all three of the measurements to be in balance if the goal is to make an easy-wearing sports watch, and, in many ways, lug to lug is routinely the most crucial measurement for those of us that find larger watches too large (being that most of us have wrists that are longer West to East than North to South (you know, because of how arms are).
Watches like the aforementioned Doxa wear smaller than you'd expect as their lug to lug distance is not much longer than the case width. Similarly, the 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT feels vastly larger on wrist than this Sinn U50, and that's because the Black Bay is quite a bit thicker at 14.75mm (it's also some 5% longer in terms of the case width/length ratio). If you only considered the width, you'd have no ability to predict how differently the two watches wear in real life.
Conversely, if you take a relatively small watch but give it very long lugs, you can quickly end up with a watch that wears a lot bigger than the case width would suggest (something I like to call "the NOMOS factor"). Over time, people have started to take much closer note of thickness when determining if a watch might be good on their wrist and, while I applaud brands that include the thickness measurement of watches that are not advertised as "ultra-thin," if a watch fits your wrist really well, make note of all three measurements and how they blend together with the case shape to make something comfortable. Some "big" watches wear really well, and some smaller watches do not, it's a question of balance and proportion.
For the U50, the balance is there in spades, with the closest comparison in my mind being the older Omega Seamaster Professionals. I had a 2254 that was very similar in proportion with a case width/length ratio of 0.88 to the Sinn's 0.87, and it was a treat to have on my 7-inch wrist, even if Omega would have considered it a larger watch in its day.
Bead blasted, starkly legible, and water-resistant to 500 meters, the Sinn has a wrist presence that is all its own. There isn't an ounce of nostalgia in the way it wears, and it feels about as toolish as I could imagine from a watch that still uses a mechanical movement and analog display. Sinn being Sinn, the U50 meets the diving technical requirements for both DIN 8310 and DIN 8306, and Sinn has the U50 tested to meet euro diving equipment standards (EN 250 / EN14143) and certified by DNV GL. So, if you want to actually go diving, Sinn does NOT mess around.
Likewise, the bezel is incredible. It's captive (held on by tiny screws rather than tension) and has a chunky 60-click action that feels muted and solid. The grip is good, and the lume matches nicely with the very bright application used for the hands and markers. The flat sapphire crystal is so good that it basically disappears. I can always judge a crystal based on how easily it photographs, and the U50 is as easy as it gets and really highlights the functional quality of a flat crystal, especially in a time when steeply domed crystals have become increasingly popular.
The crown is tucked away at 4 o'clock, which offers good on-wrist ergonomics but a somewhat compromised control setup. The crown is quite small, and I found it took some practice to get used to how much of a pinch it was for my fingertips. That said, the threading is positive (easy to align) and the general action is solid and nicely made.
The included cut-to-fit rubber is also quite nice and not dissimilar to that which you might find included with higher-end Swiss dive watches. It's soft and comfortable, and it mounts into a chunky but curved fold-over clasp with a fold-out dive extension. For those not wild about rubber, the U50's 20mm drilled lugs can suit for a wider range of straps and, unsurprisingly, I found that the U50 worked beautifully on a NATO (or really any strap I threw at it).
In short (or long, if you've actually read this far), the U50 is an easy-wearing U-Boat for your wrist and a very successful port of the U1 into a smaller (and much thinner) case size. Bravo.
Before we get to the competition, one side note for those who may be planning to actually pick up a U50: My contacts at Sinn (both in the US and in Germany) have communicated that stock for the new model will likely be low for the next several months due to overwhelming demand (far greater than Sinn HQ had expected). They asked me to pass along the message that they remain a small enthusiast brand and that they are working to increase the availability of the entire line and hope that the delay is understood as one of manufacturing and not marketing.
So, now the fun part. Depending on the spec, a U50 will cost between $2,180 and $2,940. For my money, I'd go with exactly what is shown here, the U50-T which is one step up from the base and adds the Tegiment hardening to the case, which brings the price to a more specific $2,650. For the sake of competition, I figure any enthusiast buyer would be considering thinner modern tool dive watches – no fauxtina – of a similar size and around $2,000-$3,500.
While the first watch that jumps to mind is the Tudor Pelagos, let's not forget that the Pelagos is titanium, with an in-house movement, comes with both the strap and the bracelet (which also features their amazing self-adjusting clasp), is 42mm wide and 14.3mm thick, and costs $5,240. So, while I understand it will come up in the comments because they are both very modern and starkly legible dive watches, I have trouble understanding who would be cross-shopping the two. Likewise, I don't see the Fifty-Eight as a comparison either, simply because they are two vastly different watches in terms of looks – one has to appeal more to your tastes and both are excellent watches (with the Tudor sitting above the defined price window at $3,700).
As for more direct cash comparisons, let's take a look at competition from within Sinn's own lineup. At 42mm x 12.3mm and costing from $1,890, the 500m water-resistant EZM 3 hits a lower price point but is made from stainless steel and lacks the hardened bezel of even the base U1. Extra points for the destro crown and the lovely handset, though.
Moving beyond Sinn, for those that don't plan to do a lot of strap changes, the Oris Aquis comes in both 41.5 and 39.5mm sizing, and both offer a distinctive style. The 39.5mm size can be had for $2,100 ($2,300 for the very pretty Clean Ocean LE), and they are 13mm thick and offer 300m water-resistance. It's a less techy option than the Sinn, but for that money, you get a bracelet and a ceramic bezel, which remains a solid value.
German dive watch nerds have already left for the comments to make sure I know about Damasko. For those that haven't left – I know about Damasko. In terms of raw aesthetic, I could see someone having Damasko's DSub-1 on the same list as a base U50. Both use bead-blasted submarine steel cases, both have a Swiss automatic movement with a date, and both are genuine modern tool dive watches. With a list price of around $1,600, the DSub-1 is 42mm wide (43 at the bezel edge) and some 12.9mm thick. In my mind, it's a lesser price point that offers less of what makes the U50 standout offering.
Interestingly, TAG Heuer makes a version of the Aquaracer (ref WBD2111.BA0928) that is 41mm wide and 12mm thick (reportedly). It uses a Calibre 5 automatic movement, has a date and 300m water resistance, and comes on a steel bracelet for $2,200. I had a WAN2110 (an older generation of the same watch) and rather liked it. That said, it's not nearly as toolish and focused as the Sinn.
Finally, while not nearly as thin, the 42mm Breitling Superocean Automatic sits at the high side of the price range ($3,450) but offers a modern and very toolish design that might speak to a similar group. At 13.3mm, I wouldn't call it thin, but it's certainly less in thickness than I usually expect from a chunky Breitling diver.
I am interested to see what I have missed in the world of the thin, not-too-big, and laboriously over-engineered dive watches. But, even if the above list isn't exhaustive, I think it does speak to the gap that Sinn has hit with the U50. If you like your dive watches capable, easy to wear, thin, and entirely without vintage design inspiration, I can't imagine a watch I'd recommend before the U50.
The Sinn U50 is a 500-meter water resistant dive watch. Made of German submarine steel with a special surface hardening called Tegiment, the U50 is 41mm across, 11.15mm thick, and 47mm lug to lug. It comes on a rubber strap, and there is an optional steel bracelet. The U50 is powered by a Sellita SW300-1 automatic movement and retails from $2,180. See more at Sinn.de.
Each week, our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.
I can't think about life in the deep ocean without hearing David Attenborough in my head, saying something along the lines of, "And yet, even here, in the deepest abyss, where no sunlight penetrates ... there is life." Indeed there is, and in one of most nutrient-poor environments in the world, animals can be driven to extreme measures to avoid being eaten. "Vantafish" is not an actual name for any of the pitch dark animals covered in this story from The New York Times, but it should be – these fish, who are so black they look like fish-shaped holes in the water, can absorb up to 99.9% of the light that hits them (Vantablack only reflects back about 0.045%). You would think that animals would not need camouflage in the black depths of the ocean, but many predators in the abyss hunt and signal using bioluminescence and have developed incredible low light vision as an aid in hunting. The arms race between predator and prey has resulted in these amazing adaptations – creatures which come as close to being invisible, in their natural home at least, as any on earth.
Flippers, rarified stock, and massive premiums on the secondary market – I'm not talking about 5711s and Daytonas. It's bourbon, baby. The spirit has enjoyed a meteoric rise in popularity over the past decade, and this story for Whisky Advocate digs into the back-water channels that keep premium examples of the form tied up in collector stock, dealers, and a web of online groups dedicated to sourcing the rarest bottles. Written by the talented Sean Evans (whom I had the pleasure of meeting via automotive press circles), this is a fascinating inside story at why you likely need to look farther (and much deeper) than your local liquor store if you want to score a special bottle of bourbon. From Pappy to Weller, Willet, and even the existence of fakes, the market is hot, and the drinking is great.
Stanley Kubrick is certainly considered one of the greatest filmmakers, and outright auteurs, in modern history. He had an artist's eye and an impeccable sense of framing. While he surely worked with cinematographers on each of his films, Kubrick was known to be quite hands-on with the camera and lens choices – meticulously crafting the perfect shot. A lot of this can be attributed to the fact that Kubrick began his legendary career as a staff photographer for LOOK magazine in the mid-1940s, just after WWII. He was a prodigy with a camera, set loose in his native New York City. Far Out released a look back at a photo series that he produced in 1946 – when he was a mere 18 years old – called "People of the New York Subway." In the photos, Kubrick captures a singular moment in time, a capsule of life in the post-war city. With this series, you get a glimpse into the beginnings of the future icon's long and successful career, but also a view into the ordinary day-to-day life of a bustling New York in its raw, and gritty beauty.
My interest in America's mid-century nuclear experimentation spiked while researching the "Croner" watch for this project. It turns out Waldo Halley Croner, to whom the watch belonged, was involved in Operation Crossroads, or what most folks might know as the Bikini Atoll nuclear tests in the South Pacific that inspired the hit movie Godzilla. Operation Crossroads took place in 1946, while the Trinity test, the first time a nuclear device was ever detonated, happened just a year earlier. Some scientists thought the test could end all life on earth. The stakes were tremendous. Of course, we know that's not the case in hindsight, but it was an incredibly tense moment in history and one that would forever change the world. This piece in The Atlantic looks back at the very moment the world's first-ever nuclear test took place in the desert of New Mexico.
If you have fond memories of the internet in the mid-2000s, they likely involve – in some capacity or another – the use of Flash. Everything from glitzy corporate websites to browser-based games (and Homestar Runner!) relied on the platform to give a sense of interactivity and movement to what had long been a largely static user experience. This piece in Ars Technica traces Flash back to its roots, tracking the journey of the software's unlikely rise to ubiquity and unceremonious decline into obsolescence. At the end of 2020, support for Flash will cease – effectively closing the chapter on one of the most influential and democratizing creative forces the internet ever knew – but its effect on web design and native digital content will live on.
Following the release of the "The Long Return Part II," we thought it might be fun to take a look back at an in-depth piece about the "Dirty Dozen" watches that were used in World War II via a commission from the British Ministry of Defense. If you like your watches vintage, tough as nails, and always on a NATO, you're going to love the full story on these very cool military tool watches.
Originally produced by HODINKEE alum Arthur Touchot almost four years ago, this piece breaks down the war-time need for a reliable watch and the 12 brands that stepped up to fill the demand. From throwback brands like Buren and Grana to modern-day players like Omega, Longines, IWC, and JLC, the legacy of the W.W.W. is one for the ages, and these watches remain eminently collectible and reflective of a time long since passed.
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This week, it's all about Mr. Jon Bues. Sure, you probably already know that Jon's been serving as our senior editor since 2017 and that he's a serious expert on the Rolex GMT-Master, but there's a lot more to him than just that. Jon's someone that I've known since my earliest days covering the watch industry – we literally met at multiple events my very first week at HODINKEE – and our careers have crossed paths at quite a few points over the years. He's been a part of the watch and media worlds for more than a decade and a half, and he's seen quite a bit change over that time. Don't worry, we'll get into all of that and a whole lot more.
Our conversation starts with the basics, from Jon's childhood in Connecticut to how he first stepped into the watch world as a copy editor at iW magazine (where he first saw names like Jack Forster, for example). We cover his various posts at magazines like Wristwatch and Watch Journal, how he eventually joined the HODINKEE team, and what has happened in the watch world as digital media exploded in a very print-centric culture. We, of course, talk about our first Baselworld experiences and how Jon's personal watch collection has evolved throughout his career. We also get into his love of good beer, good food, and a great trip. Despite sitting across from Jon at HODINKEE HQ, I learned a bunch of new things about him during our chat, and I'm sure you will too.
Want more HODINKEE editor goodness? You're in luck. I've previously sat down and interviewed Joe Thompson, Jack Forster, Cara Barrett, James Stacey, and, of course, Ben Clymer, our founder and fearless leader. If you know which HODINKEE editor you want to hear from next (or again), let us know in the comments. I'm all ears.
We hope you enjoy Episode 97 of HODINKEE Radio. Check out the show notes below, and let us know what you think in the comments.
Wrist Check
This has been Jon's go-to watch over the last few months while he's been working from home. It's the most recent addition to his collection and a watch that he knew he wanted from the moment he first saw it just after Baselworld 2019. Eventually, he was able to get his hands on one (remember, the Rolex GMT-Master II isn't something you can just walk into a boutique and buy), and it did not disappoint one bit. It reminds him of his love of travel and how excited he'll be to hit the road again once everything is safe and clear.
The first HODINKEE Magazine was released to the world in September 2017, a little less than three years ago. It was a labor of love from the start, and it took the entire HODINKEE team months of planning and collaborative effort to bring to life. After nearly a decade of publishing our thoughts and opinions online, we wanted to take the next step and expand the world of HODINKEE into a bi-annual premium print product that highlighted not only the watch stories that we're known for, but also those adjacent to the horological world that captivated us as well.
Since then, we've proudly published five additional issues of the HODINKEE Magazine, and Volume 6 was introduced just last month (which, if you haven't picked it up yet, you know what to do). Each back issue of the HODINKEE Magazine is still available to purchase, except for one: Volume 1. Our inaugural issue has been sold out for nearly two years. You can't even find a spare copy in the HODINKEE office these days.
That's a problem. The HODINKEE family has grown quite a bit since we first introduced the HODINKEE Magazine, and one of the most frequent questions and comments we receive is whether or not there will be another opportunity to purchase Volume 1. And today, we're happy to announce that you can do just that, exclusively in the HODINKEE Shop.
The HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 1, has been reprinted exactly as it was published in the fall of 2017. That means 160 pages of premium semi-gloss stock that covers everything from an exclusive Reference Points on the Rolex Sea-Dweller to a deep-dive on the 1965 Porsche 911. John Mayer interviews Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern. Jack goes deep on astronomical complications and ultra-thin minute repeaters. Our friends Gary Shteyngart and Alton Brown wax poetic on their horological hobby. Plus much, much more.
Oh, and on the cover? Paul Newman's Paul Newman Daytona. Yeah. You'd be absolutely right if you thought we wanted to start the HODINKEE Magazine out with a bang.
The HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 1, is exclusively available in the HODINKEE Shop for $38, with complimentary global shipping included. You can purchase it right here. We hope you enjoy reading it just as much we did making it – again.
You can learn more about the HODINKEE Magazine and subscribe to receive future issues on our dedicated page to all things HODINKEE Magazine. You can also follow the HODINKEE Magazine on Instagram, right here.
Gorilla was founded in 2016 by Octavio Garcia, who was, before starting the company, creative director at Audemars Piguet from 2003 to 2015. Garcia, despite having spent much of his career in Switzerland (he studied product design in Switzerland and his first gig in the watch industry was with Omega in 1999), is actually American and was born and raised in Chicago, where he grew up absorbed in the fictional comic book universes of Marvel and DC and helping his father tweak muscle cars. While Garcia's work at AP often stretched into six-figure territory, Gorilla was founded with another intention, which was to produce visually distinctive and texturally rich timepieces, using materials generally associated with higher prices, on more affordably priced watches. Along with his partner Lukas Gopp, an industrial designer with work at IWC, Ralph Lauren Watches & Jewelry Co., and Audemars Piguet to his credit, Garcia began producing watches often priced right around the €1,000 mark but with ceramic bezels, forged carbon cases with anodized aluminum accents, and multi-layered dials, all powered by reliable Miyota movements. The company has stayed true to this vision of high-impact, low-cost watchmaking since its inception, and one of the most interesting steps the partners have taken is to introduce the wandering hours complication to its collections.
The first wandering hours complication from Gorilla debuted in 2018 and a more recent introduction is the Fastback Drift Wandering Hours, which draws on the same design language as the 2018 Fastback GT Mirage, whose blue and orange color scheme is a shout-out to the Le Mans-winning Ford GT 40.
The complication on the other hand is a very old one – the earliest such clock was made in 1656 by the Campanus brothers, in Italy, for Pope Alexander XII. (There is a very early anonymous wandering hours clock, made around 1680, at the offices of Urwerk in Geneva.) The name comes from the fact that the time is read off three rotating hour disks, mounted on a carrier. The disks each carry four numerals, which indicate the hour, and they pass in turn across a sector at the top of the dial, thereby showing the minutes. The complication is interesting and unusual enough to form the foundation of an entire brand (in the case of Urwerk), and it has in the past been used by Audemars Piguet as well, in its Star Wheel watches (first produced in 1991, but now, sadly, long out of production).
The movement base is the ETA 2824, which provides enough torque to propel the wandering hours module and still provide its usual 38-hour power reserve. The wandering hours module, G-5238, is interestingly enough produced for Gorilla by Manufacture Vaucher, which is also known for its production of movements and complications for watches which are often considerably more costly than anything made by Gorilla; this includes Hermès, Richard Mille, and, of course, Parmigiani Fleurier, which like Vaucher is part of the Sandoz Family Foundation. Despite the company it keeps, the Gorilla Fastback Drift Mirage Wandering Hours is very reasonably priced (to put it mildly) at $3,750.
Initial Thoughts
I was pretty taken aback at the value which Gorilla watches represent when the brand first launched, and I had the same reaction when the company launched its wandering hours complication. It seems incredible that they can produce a ceramic and forged carbon-cased, sapphire crystal, complicated watch in partnership with Vaucher for such an approachable price, but they have. The wandering hours complication is extremely versatile – at Urwerk, it has a very cyberpunk, postmodern feel, while at Audemars Piguet, it has been generally given a very traditional and even aristocratic feel. (For another example of such a take on the complication, it has also been used at Arnold & Son in a very beautiful but quite expensive watch; the Arnold & Son Wandering Hours timepiece is $47,500.)
While the launch of a wandering hours complication represents a new high-water mark for pricing at Gorilla, it is still dramatically less expensive than is normal for the complication. Of course, a great price-value ratio is not a good reason to buy a watch, at least not in isolation, but in terms of design and complexity alone the Fastback Drift Mirage Wandering Hours represents great value as well, if you ask me. It's a very striking watch and represents a really original approach to the complication, and in the metal/ceramic/forged carbon, it gives the impression of being extremely well made and thoughtfully designed as well. Despite its size (44mm, but c'mon, you weren't really expecting a sub-40mm watch from a company called Gorilla, were you?), it's a very comfortable watch to wear, thanks to the integrated strap and overall lightweight construction. And if you want a great wrist conversation piece, it's a great watch day or night (there's black Super-LumiNova on the satellites and minutes sector). For under four thousand bucks, I have a hard time thinking of a more distinctive, to say nothing of flat-out fun, wristwatch, and with a very cool interpretation of a nearly four centuries-old complication to boot.
Diameter: 44mm; 48.5mm with crown guards, and 57mm lug to lug Thickness: 13.9mm Case Material: Powder-blue ceramic, anodized aluminum and forged carbon; engraved titanium caseback; sapphire crystals front and back with double antireflective coating Dial: Hand chamfered carrier for the satellites over a hand-milled base plate; satellites and rehaut in aluminum Lume: Black Super-LumiNova on satellites and minutes sector Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Integrated two-color Viton with titanium buckle
The Movement
Caliber: ETA 2824 with wandering hours module by Vaucher, exclusively for Gorilla Functions: Wandering hours Diameter: 25.6mm Power Reserve: 38 hours Winding: Manual and automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 25 Additional Details: Vaucher module G-5238
Pricing & Availability
Price: $3,750 Availability: Available now Limited Edition: Yes, 250 pieces worldwide
