The Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon GMT looked and sounded like a new candidate for Best Superwatch Of 2019 on the basis of the specs and press release alone. And in person, it's overwhelming. We had a chance to look at it in the metal and talk about the evolution of the GMT complication at Greubel Forsey, with co-founder Stephen Forsey in Basel last week, and it's an extraordinary and I think necessarily divisive watch.  Yes, it is absolutely over the top in terms of design, and in terms of price, but it's also over the top intentionally – a megawatch with two double tourbillons, two time zones, a universal time display/worldtime function via a miniature globe, and more traditional labor-intensive fine finishing that you would find in ten vintage observatory tourbillon pocket watches put together, is an inherently expensive proposition.

And yet of its kind, it's also an odd sort of value proposition – like the Credor Eichi and Eichi II, it exists in a class which is both defined by, and consists of, only Greubel Forsey. If you're fascinated by watchmaking as an art form, as well as by watchmaking as an obsessive investigation into fundamental problems in chronometry, there really isn't anything like the watchmaking at Greubel Forsey. I can't even remotely afford watchmaking at this level but I can't afford one of Monet's Water Lilies either, and I'm glad both exist and that I can see them. The only problem with considering watches like this as a form of art (for which I think an argument can be made) is that you can't see them in a museum and I think it'd be a wonderful thing if there were a museum of watchmaking that included both vintage and modern pieces like this – seeing a Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon GMT in the metal, on extended loan from a patron of the horological arts, would be mighty fine.

Grand Seiko is celebrating the 20th Anniversary of Spring Drive in style, with a new Grand Seiko Sport design that features a faceted, highly polished case that's a radical departure from Grand Seiko's past design language. The new cases, whose angular case, sharp lugs, and dial pattern are all said to be inspired by the claws and mane of the Grand Seiko mascot, have a visual and tactile presence that's probably going to be pretty challenging for at least some of Grand Seiko's very engaged fans to accept. Whether or not the new design finds rapid acceptance, or instead will take a little getting used to, remains to be seen, but in terms of quality of execution, fit, and finish, they're very much what we've come to expect from Grand Seiko even if the case isn't.

The new cases are found in three variations – there's a time and date model in Grand Seiko's High Intensity Titanium (a hardened titanium alloy with all the corrosion resistance, lightness, and hypoallergenic properties of conventional titanium, but with much better scratch resistance) as well as gold and High Intensity Titanium chronograph GMT models. All are Spring Drive watches. Grand Seiko Spring Drive chronographs are an interesting breed – the movements are on the large side, and a typical size for Spring Drive chronos is 43.5mm x 16.1mm, or a bit smaller than an Omega Planet Ocean Chronograph. 

Size notwithstanding, this is a Grand Seiko through and through. It feels a bit more intentionally a sports chronograph than existing Spring Drive chronograph models, which among other things have generally not featured lume on the dials and hands (the exception being SBGC221) and have felt more like general-purpose luxury-sport watches than sports watches per se. Lume doth not a sports watch make alone, but comparatively speaking the 20th Anniversary chrono stands out from earlier offerings on this feature. The sapphire bezel is, I believe, also new for Spring Drive chronographs (I could be wrong but I don't recall seeing these on SD chronos before this release, though there have been ceramic bezel models with the GMT complication).

It also stands out for the difference in case design. The 20th Anniversary cases are almost aggressively assertive – well, that's a lion for you. After the initial shock you do start to notice just how nicely done they are, in terms of the overall quality. It's an unexpected kind of beauty from Grand Seiko, but it grows on you and from a technical perspective, it's also rather more difficult to do with titanium than steel, as titanium tends to stick to the cutting edges of machine tools (the phenomenon's called galling) preventing accurate machining. 

The existing Spring Drive Chronograph GMT collection are priced between $8,200 and $14,800 and use the caliber 9R86; this is a column wheel controlled, vertical clutch Spring Drive movement rated to an accuracy of ±1 second per day. 9R86 also has a two-state start-stop pusher; a light push puts you in ready mode, and a deeper push starts the chronograph running. The center chronograph seconds hand runs with the same continuous smoothness as the running seconds hand in the sub-dial at nine o'clock; since it moves continuously rather than moving in discrete jumps (like a conventional chronograph) you have, theoretically, much finer resolution. The pusher tips are concave, with concentric knurling, for a more sure grip. The 20th Anniversary model uses the caliber 9R96, which is identical in most respects, but with a better accuracy spec of ±0.5 seconds per day.

Interestingly enough, from the back you can't readily tell the 20th Anniversary model from existing Grand Seiko Spring Drive chronographs. The caseback (as Stephen Pulvirent mentioned in his Introducing post with the time-and-date model, which is also adjusted to ±0.5 seconds per day) has a very organic curve that tapers downward to meet the wrist, making it feel like a significantly smaller watch on the wrist, without taking away from the visual impact. In steel, this strategy would still make for a more comfortable wrist-feel for a somewhat large watch but the use of a heavier metal would run the risk of making the watch seem a bit more top-heavy; in titanium, this is much less of an issue.

Just as an aside, this is one area where I'd love to see a hand-wound Spring Drive chrono from Grand Seiko. This is the 20th Anniversary of Spring Drive but it's also another anniversary – in 1969, Seiko released its caliber 6139, which was along with the Zenith El Primero, and the Caliber 11, one of the first selfwinding chronographs ever made. A fitting tribute would be a flatter hand-wound Spring Drive chrono which I think Grand Seiko fans who find the current offering of Spring Drive chronos a bit large, would greet with considerable enthusiasm. But if you're looking for a more extroverted take on the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT with a very idiosyncratically Grand Seiko feel, this 20th Anniversary model is a sharp interpretation in every sense of the word. And, as a limited edition, it doesn't carry a pricing premium in comparison with existing Spring Drive GMT models, which is always welcome.

This reference, SBG231, is a limited edition of 500 pieces worldwide; price at launch, $12,900. 

The Grand Seiko 20th Anniversary Of Spring Drive Chronograph, In Titanium: Case, Grand Seiko High Intensity Titanium, 44.5mm x 16.8mm, with sapphire crystal and 24 hour bezel. Lumibrite on the markers and hands. Water resistance, 20 bar/200 meters, with screw-down crown and case pushers; see through screw down caseback. Movement, Spring Drive chronograph caliber 9R96; rated accuracy ±0.5 seconds/day; column wheel controlled vertical clutch system, with ready/start double pusher position; functions, time and date with small seconds, chronograph, GMT with power reserve. More on the 20th Anniversary collection at Grand-Seiko.com.

This week we’ve got a mixed bag of watches that run the gamut from robust tool watches to an elegant and rare dress watch. Welcome back, my friends, to the vintage watch show that never ends!

1970s Vacheron Constantin Ref. 6531 In 18k White Gold

To say this watch is thin is an understatement. At 5mm in thickness (thanks to the record-breaking svelte-ness of the caliber 1003), it basically disappears on the wrist. That being said, thanks to the super rare crosshatch dial design, this little guy can still be considered a statement piece.  

1967 Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. 165024

I’ve been sitting here trying to come up with a way to describe this killer Omega diver and, though it’s a little crass, I keep coming back to “badass.” The combination of the 42mm case, lyre lugs, sword hands, and amazing patina all make this watch even more than the sum of its parts.

1960s Sabina Chronograph

There’s not a ton of information available about Sabina in the quote-unquote history books, but based on this particular example, they did some good work. If you’re looking for a well-priced and solid vintage chronograph with a workhorse Valjoux movement and some fun colors, then not only do you have very specific taste, but you’re in luck!

The Full Set

Don’t fret if none of the above float your boat, because there’s more to see! Click through to check out a funky Omega Flightmaster, a Universal Genève Polerouter, and a Yema Yachtingraf.

It's hard to believe it's been over five years – half a decade (!!) – since I sat down with John Mayer at a little cafe down the road from our office, a four-person WeWork rental that we hadn't even filled out yet. The HODINKEE team back then consisted of myself, Mr. Will Holloway, and the one and only SJPeezy – Stephen J. Pulvirent. Our team was small but strong, and all we needed back then was a free afternoon with a rock star to make some content that we are still proud of to this very day. I am proud to say that both Stephen and Will are still very much a part of this business, even now that we are over 10 times the size, and our offices are, well, a little bigger too. Talking Watches With John Mayer aired on September 25, 2013, and since then it has been viewed almost 2 million times. And now we're back with another one.

Anecdotally, the number of times a young man or woman has approached me at an event or on the street and told me that Talking Watches with John Mayer was the very reason he or she had an interest in watches must be in the thousands. There is something about that video that just works – it seems to resonate at just the right pitch with so many new watch lovers. Perhaps it is because we had no idea what to expect, nor did we have any plans for Talking Watches to become a 45-plus episode series that would help define our entire business. But either way, it just works. And now John, who is still very much in the watch game, is back to show you some more.

Welcome to your official Talking Watches 2 with John Mayer. 

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6265 With Omani Khanjar

About as long as John has been interested in watches, he's been interested in Daytonas. And man, he's got a lot – including some really esoteric stuff. This is a reference 6265 with a green Khanjar down in the chronograph hours register. It's a little "pot leafy," but this is one serious Daytona.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6265 For The UAE

In some ways a brother to the black 6265 with an Omani Khanjar above, this is a silver 6265 with a UAE crest at 12 o'clock. What's amazing about these special order watches from the 1970s is that they actually don't say "Rolex" anywhere on the dial. Imagine that happening today.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 In 18k Yellow Gold

With the rise in popularity of all the Paul Newmans, John has found a lot of interest in wearing non-PN, but still vintage, Daytonas. The prices of these more common watches are now around what he was paying for PNs back in the day. 

I remember seeing prices on the 'Paul Newman' Daytonas skyrocket and thinking to myself that it was time to let go of those pieces and focus a little more on the 'plain Jane,' non-PN versions. I'm glad I did, for several reasons – not the least of which is that I can wear them without any doubt they’re unquestionably authentic. And this version may be the coolest gold Rolex ever made.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6264 Paul Newman

A pump pusher, black bezel Paul Newman Daytona is somewhat commonplace amongst well-heeled entertainment types in Los Angeles. But if you look closely, the vast majority of them are 6241s and feature a red outer track. This is a 6264 and features a dial similar to that of the dramatically more valuable and rare 6263 Oyster Paul Newman. Killer watch.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6264 With Pulsation Dial

Okay, let's just keep climbing the hierarchy of manually wound Daytonas here. This is, just like the previous watch, a rare reference 6264. But this isn't a Paul Newman, nor is it a regular dial here. Notice it says "Base 15 pulsations" at 10 o'clock? Yup, this is a pulsation dial Daytona, or "Doctor's Daytona."

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6269

Okay, up until this point, each watch we've featured has a reference number that you are likely familiar with if you follow HODINKEE or other such publications. But when you get into unique reference number, manually wound Daytonas, you're talking a whole new level. The 6269 is a watch made in the mid 1980s, but it is very much a vintage watch with a Valjoux 727 manually wound caliber and a 6263-style case. The bezel is set with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds, the dial background is set with 240 brilliant-cut diamonds, and the hour markers include nine brilliant-cut sapphires. This is an insanely rare watch, and one that marked the first time Rolex produced the Daytona as a true high-luxury object. Oh, and John's example comes with a full set of box and original papers.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6270

The 6269 seen above is one of the most special and seldom-seen Daytonas on planet earth. But what it's not is the damn 6270. Another unique reference Daytona, this brother of the 6269 was not really understood by many until the modern era of collecting. The bezel features baguette-cut diamonds, while the dial plate is again covered in stones like that of the 6269. We again have sapphires for hour markers, but in the sub-registers you have a dark blue/purple sheen. The 6270, made for the Sultan of Oman, is truly the holy grail of vintage Daytonas. How many exist? No one knows for sure, but the market has seen just six. Six.

Rolex Rainbow Daytona Ref. 116598 In Yellow Gold

Hindsight is always 20/20, and it's easy to proclaim the modern Everose Rainbow Daytona as one of the hottest watches in the world (it is, regardless of how you feel about its looks), but back when the yellow and white gold examples were launched, the feedback was less encouraging. In fact, most people, even retailers and serious collectors, thought Rolex had gone just a little too far. John felt otherwise and bought one (or two). He wears it often.

Rolex Rainbow Daytona Ref. 116599 In White Gold

If you're gonna go deep, you might as well go subterranean, right? He’s got one (or two) Rainbows in white gold too. This one is often seen on the wrist of the musician/Instagram god when he's eating chicken wings.

This is an example of having been ridiculed for loving something and then ultimately rewarded for it. When this watch was released, it was seen as garish and over the top, and I agree! I think you had to understand Rolex’s mindset over a number of years to pick up on how unlike them it was to release a rainbow bezel Daytona, and how playful and special it was. I think the white gold variant will go on to become the grail inside of the Rainbow Daytona line.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116508 In Yellow Gold With Green Dial

If you haven't figured it out by now, this guy loves Daytonas. Like a lot. Reference 116508 is a metal bezel, self-winding watch that was announced in 2016, the very same year as the steel ceramic Daytona. And because of that, nobody really paid attention and they kind of sat untouched in retailers' corners. He bought one anyway.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116509 In White Gold With Blue Dial

The brother of the yellow gold/green dial is the white gold/blue dial Daytona. Again, we tend to think people overlooked them because they feature metal bezels instead of ceramic...but these are solid gold Daytonas with brightly colored dials. What's not to love?

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5514 For COMEX

Okay, we’re done with Daytonas. But not with Rolex! JM has a wide range of Submariners – we saw him with a double-reference 5513/5517 MilSub five years ago, but here we have something even more esoteric. This looks like a simple-but-beautiful matte dial 5513 with a grey faded bezel. But if you turn it to the side, you'll see it's got a small little dot on the mid-case: That’s a helium escape valve. This is a 5514, another unique reference watch, this one made for French dive company COMEX. This bad boy is a serious sleeper.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200

What's there to say about a Submariner? It's basically the quintessential post-modern wristwatch, and we know all about them. And if you do, you know what a Big Crown is – but you're probably thinking of a 5510 or 6538 like Mr. Bond wore. This reference, the 6200, pre-dates all that and has become one of the most sought after references in all of Rolex. Only problem is that they're impossible to find in ANY condition, let alone with original hands, bezel, and a dial that hasn't been re-lumed. The one you see here? Yup, it's good.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5971

The very first time I met John, in the winter of 2012, Will and I went to his SoHo apartment to shoot his 5396 Tiffany for this story. I knew he was a 5970P person, but the watch he was wearing that day was a 5971. And as I glanced around his apartment, I noticed a wonderful black and white photograph of him and his father in black tie, and John was again wearing a 5971. It's not a watch many can pull off, but to me, this watch is quintessentially him. 

Patek Philippe Ref. 5004G With Salmon Dial And Luminous Hands

The watch world is a funny place. I can't tell you how many times well-to-do friends and readers have approached me in simple disbelief that they, successful, intelligent, and most importantly, willing members of the watch community will NOT be sold a watch at retail. You know the story – a Nautilus, a GMT, whatever, you don't just get, you kinda have to earn them by generating a long term relationship with an authorized dealer. Or you just buy them grey market above list price. At the extreme end of the "must have relationship" game are the custom order watches from Patek Philippe. John is a die, die-hard believer in Lemania-based Pateks, and in particular the 5004. He has them in all metals (including steel) and a few special dial configurations, but his prized 5004 is this example in white gold with a salmon colored dial that dates back to 2013. What's more, the hands are luminous – so he can read them on stage – and both the caseback and clasp are engraved with his name. Badass.

It’s no secret among my watch collecting friends that I love the ref. 5004. I love this one even more – a unique version featuring a salmon dial and luminous hands. This is the watch, above all others, that makes me want to live a little differently with it on. This watch has better taste than I do sometimes.

Audemars Piguet Concept GMT Tourbillon In White Ceramic

AP's concept line is something that few outside those with sincere interest in the most avant garde technical watchmaking understand because frankly, look at this thing. This is anything but normal. In fact, this watch, first seen in 2014, features a twin-barrel, manually wound, completely in-house movement featuring a tourbillon escapement. Did I mention the upper plate, bezel, crown, and pushers are all in white ceramic? This should not be confused for anything but seriously high-end watchmaking, and John can be seen wearing this guy on stage with Dead & Co. often. Seriously.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked Self-Winding

The second AP Concept in the John Mayer collection is an even more serious watch. This thing is a chronograph and tourbillon that is powered by an incredible rotor that is on the very periphery of the movement. There isn't much else out there like it, and this is among the most interesting, high-end self-winding movements in the world.

It remains to be seen as to what line in the sand CODE 11.59 draws in the lineage of Audemars Piguet, but this watch definitely represents the golden era we’re still very much in when it comes to complicated variants of the Royal Oak. Hard to get more over-the-top technical than this piece.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin Tourbillon

Mayer is a serious AP guy – and he's got a wide array of traditional,slim Royal Oaks (including this amazing monochrome early perpetual calendar seen in his recent GQ shoot). This slim, gold-on-gold tourbillon is among his favorites, and if you see him around LA, there is a good chance this will be what he's wearing.

Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116719BLRO In White Gold

John and I are always looking for modern Rolex watches that might turn out to be cult classics – and there isn't a better example of this than the white gold Pepsi. It couples blue-chip vintage Rolex vibes with that red and blue bezel, but in an 18k white gold case. One must remember that this watch was, for some period of time, the only Pepsi-bezel GMT being made by Rolex. The gold Pepsi is still in the catalog to this day, but as of 2018, available with only a blue dial, and as of 2019, with a meteorite dial – the black has been completely phased out. What's more, in the spring of 2015, John and I were both going through some big professional changes and we decided to grab lunch in New York to celebrate them. After a few drinks and some big talk, we ended up at the Rolex boutique on Fifth Avenue and both ended up buying these watches. 

Patek Philippe Ref. 5164A Travel Time Aquanaut, Tiffany-Signed

Now, in this episode, we made a point to show some of John's most serious stuff, but it's important to note that every single watch he showed us half a decade ago he still owns. Many of them he continues to wear all the time. And this, a 5164A travel time Aquanaut seen in that first episode five years ago remains part of the regular rotation. Now it dons one of those impossible-to-find green straps and a few more nicks to the bezel, which make it looks even better. 

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, SoundCloud, Google Play). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us what topics you'd like us to chat about. 

Recorded “live” at the annual Bremont Townhouse in New York City, this episode has the boys face-to-face in the same place (a rarity!). Each spring, Bremont hosts press at a pre-Basel preview of their latest watches and this is actually the third time we’ve recorded from the Townhouse. It’s always a great time getting to see and try on the new stuff from a brand like Bremont and this year has a lot to offer, with new ultra-deep divers, an ejection seat anniversary edition, and a new range of watches made for the British armed forces. Jason and James take a look at all the new models and dig into what makes Bremont special and interesting. 

If you’re looking for something new to check out this week, be sure to stay tuned until final notes as Jason has a polar thriller with Mad Mikkelsen and James has his latest and fav find on Instagram - and it’s not even a photographer! Thanks so much for watching and be sure to get excited as the next episode will be our annual Baselworld megasode! Send your questions or feedback to thegreynato@gmail.com, we’ll chat to you soon. 

Show Notes

1:00 
Bremont Watches

5:55 
Bremont's Armed Forces collection

11:50 
Supermarine S300 White

14:00
Nims and Project Possible

17:48
Supermarine S2000

20:00
MBIII 10th Anniversary LE 

22:53
Solo-34 ladies watch

25:16
ALT-1C

27:30
U-2/51 Jet

31:05 
Henry Catchpole wearing a U-2 Jet

33:55
Arctic (film)

36:35
@Nathanwpylestrangeplanet on Instagram

Late last night, the one and only Frank Ocean posted a wrist shot to his Instagram account in which, next to a gem-set flower chain bracelet, he flashed a colorfully controversial piece from Richard Mille's Bonbon collection. Originally shown at SIHH this past January, the candy-themed Bonbon collection was met with mixed reactions. I think it's a wonderful pick by Ocean. 

Adorned with fruit slices and tiny candies, the RM 37-01 Automatic Kiwi has a carbon TPT case and a bright green rubber strap. Ocean, who has been heralded for his distinctive style and taste (alongside his generation-defining music), has an eye for bright colors and eclectic tones and, assuming the RM is his, the 37-01 Kiwi seems a bold but appropriate choice. And, if I may continue to read between lines that may or may not exist, the child-like whimsy of the Kiwi could be seen as matching well with Frank's music, which often touches on color, youthful phases, coming of age, and childhood memories. It's a weird flex, but it works. 

For more on the Richard Mille Bonbon collection, click here.

It wasn’t that long ago that Grand Seiko watches weren’t available outside of Japan. But that didn’t stop Stefan Molin. Despite living in Stockholm, Sweden, Stefan discovered Grand Seiko browsing online watch forums in the late 1990s and was hooked immediately. Through this virtual community he learned about everything from the so-called “First” reference 3180 from 1960 to the modern Spring Drive calibers, with the latter becoming his real passion. Working in the world of semiconductor technology himself, the blending of old-school craftsmanship with a cutting-edge approach really speaks to him.

With an extensive collection, containing more than 35 Grand Seiko models in all, you might think that Stefan has to make a difficult choice every morning about what to strap on his wrist. But it isn’t like that for him at all. It’s much more poetic than that. “I don’t really decide – it’s just a feeling. I don’t try to match it to my clothes or anything like that. I just know.”

Inside Stefan's Grand Seiko Collection

Click on a model below to learn more.

“When I put on a Grand Seiko, it always feels good – and I know it will make me happy during the day. Many times I look down at my watch, and then forget what time it is – because I just wanted to look at it.”

“With modern Grand Seikos you can clearly see the heritage, but you also get a more robust, modern movement. You also get the Spring Drive movements, and to me, that’s a big plus.”

“If you learn about the history of Grand Seiko you appreciate the current portfolio much, much more.”

“I think both Japanese and Swedish people are very focused on details – how the light flows, the way we act as people, things like that.”

“I use all my watches, and I like that they can take a beating – and with Grand Seiko I know it won’t be a problem.”

— Stefan Molin, @68molle

As you might’ve noticed, we took a little break last week to focus on the industry’s latest offerings being shown off in Basel. With that said, the hunt didn’t stop for me, and neither did the vintage watch market — but you didn’t need me to tell you that. While everyone’s attention was directed towards the latest and greatest, I was scouring the web in search of significant watches and their respective histories to pique your interest this week. I was pleased to come across a handful of uniquely interesting pieces, which include a military issued “Dirty Dozen” Longines and a rare dive watch produced by Rado in the 1960s. At the more elegant end of the spectrum, there’s a particularly attractive rectangular piece from Audemars Piguet, a monogrammed Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, and a chronograph from Cyma that’s bound to turn some heads.  Whether you were refreshing the site in search of the column last week or this is your first time “tuning in,” I can assure you we’ve got a good one in store for you this week. 

Longines W.W.W. Greenlander

Kicking things off this week, we’ve got one of my preferred military watches. The spartan, no-frills nature of military watches has always appealed to me, as there’s something objectively cool about a watch crafted not only with a single purpose and a particular individual in mind. Considering the horological bracket from an industrial designer’s perspective is interesting, as well, seeing as such projects must’ve been an absolute dream. The requirements of the client — in this case, the military — were clear cut, with legibility and reliability trumping all other aesthetic and mechanical talking points.

Today’s military timepiece comes from a manufacture I’ve always held in high regard, for both their subtle styling and legendary watchmaking chops. It’s a member of the “Dirty Dozen” class of watches produced for the British Ministry of Defence in 1945, and a Longines at that. This is what many collectors refer to as a Greenlander, as a result of a now debunked story alleging its involvement in the British North Greenland Expedition of 1952. Although the story was revealed to be less than accurate, the name has now stuck, like with a few other watches that might come to mind. 

Of all the Dirty Dozen watches, this would be my top pick for a few reasons. First off, it’s one of the rarest of the bunch, with production numbers estimated to be somewhere in the range of 5,000-8,000 pieces total. Secondly, the presence of the cal. 12.68Z makes it one of the more sophisticatedly powered pieces of the dozen. Last but not least, you’ve got the 37.5mm stepped bezel case that feels quite modern on the wrist to this very day. With all this in mind, I thought I’d share the example I was lucky enough to come across in stunning shape, with all of its original radium luminous compound applications intact. If you’ve been hankering for a military watch, this is a great way to jump into that world of collecting. 

A vintage Longines specialist based out of the English town of Harpenden has this piece listed for sale on eBay, with an asking price of £5,800. You also have the option to make an offer. Find the full listing here. 

Vintage Audemars Piguet “Top Hat”

Collecting vintage Audemars Piguet is unlike most other collecting experiences. It’s one that requires a great deal of persistence, scholarship, and patience, in addition to the ever-present elephant in the room — money. All this is explained by the simple fact that AP produced, and continues to produce, some of the finest timepieces in the history of watchmaking, and in very small numbers at that, with an attention to detail and mastery of complications like few others possess. While Royal Oaks both new and old are terrific watches, today’s focus is on something a bit more refined, and something you’re less likely to see while scrolling through the usual gamut of Instagram watch accounts. 

The first watch that came to mind upon seeing this piece was the ref. 1450 from Patek Philippe, or the “Top Hat” as collectors like to call it, given how the dial sits atop a brim-like base that extends past its edges. Unlike the aforementioned Patek reference, or any similar watch of the period, this Audemars Piguet features more traditional lugs, setting it apart from the usual pack of Top Hats. These watches just about always fitted with hooded style lugs, which, while charming, give a watch a decidedly dated appearance. 

Apart from the manually wound caliber found inside the case, which has been finished beautifully, noteworthy details include the applied, arabic numerals that adorn the dial, along with the case shape which allows for an unobstructed view of the crystal’s side edges. This is a trait seen on very few watches, both vintage and modern, and on a piece with a brushed finish dial, you’re bound to catch the light hitting it interestingly at certain angles. An argument could be made that the increased light exposure might make for greater legibility, but I’m not here to sell you a watch. What I do know is this isn’t a watch you’re bound to find examples of popping up in the inventories of five different dealers over the next two months. 

Antiquorum will sell this Audemars Piguet in their upcoming Hong Kong sale taking place on April 3. The estimate has been set at $6,800 to $8,200. Find more details here. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso In Two-Tone On A Bracelet

Next up, we’ve got a similarly shaped watch from the same sale, and it's one that you’re likely a bit more familiar with. As the seams just above both sets of lugs would suggest, this is a Reverso, but not the modern interpretation of a Reverso you’re bound to find sitting beneath the perfectly lit, glass display case of your local authorized dealer. This is the real deal — a Reverso from back in the day when polo players, military officials, and members of aristocracy were having examples engraved and enameled with their initials on the back, to serve them dutifully on whatever rugged terrains they happened to find themselves traversing. Over the years, my research of the Reverso has gone decently in-depth, resulting in the pseudo sporting watch being among my all time favorites. There’s a truly ridiculous number of notable figures and historical events associated with this unique case design, but that’s a story for another time.

This is one of the more interestingly configured Reverso’s I’ve come across in a minute, in that its case has been executed in both stainless steel and gold. I have seen two-tone examples in the past, but few branded Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the bulk having been produced for and sold in the American market under the LeCoultre name alone. Speaking of the dial signature, it’s worth pointing out that the dial would appear to be in top condition, even considering the scuffs you see in the photos. Don’t let a scuffed crystal fool you – instead, look for shadows below flaws in the crystal. In the case of this piece, the shadows are rather easy to make out, confirming that the marks are on the crystal and not the dial itself.

Currently the watch looks to be fitted on a matching steel and gold extendable bracelet. Although this is not an original Jaeger-LeCoultre bracelet, it’s a nice addition nonetheless, and it gives the watch a little extra presence on the wrist. While I’m not sure who this “PH” character is that presumably was this piece’s original owner, I can say with a great deal of confidence that they had excellent taste.

Like the previously featured AP, this watch is also in Antiquorum’s Hong Kong sale, and will be offered with an estimate of $5,000 to $6,000. You can find additional images and the rest of the catalog right here. 

Rado Captain Cook Diver

I don’t know about you, but the homogeneous nature of style and pop culture has got me down lately. With tastes increasingly being dictated by a select few, everyone seems to be lining up for the same cool sneakers, following the same trends, and wanting one of three watches (which shall remain unnamed) on their wrist. Great designs will always attract attention en masse, and rightfully so, but sometimes you just want something that’s a little different than what everyone else is sporting. This is where the obscurities of the vintage watch world come in. 

What you’re looking at is an early example of Rado’s Captain Cook, which was originally released back in 1962. With an estimated 8,000 pieces produced during its six-year production run, these watches are relatively rare, making encounters with appealing examples like the one in question always exciting. I’ve always appreciated the attention to detail that surely went into the development of these watches, and I think you might, as well. Like the first executions of Breitling’s SuperOcean and the Gruen Ocean Chief, this watch features a concave bezel, which you just don’t see all that often. Furthermore, the caseback has to be one of the best in dive watch history, with whimsical typefaces, protruding seahorses, and speckled finishing details. 

Condition wise, this one looks to be in great shape, with minimal wear on its bezel insert, and a clean smoky grey dial. And before you ask, no this watch has not been re-lumed. Although the luminous compound found in the hands does not match that of the dial’s indices, this is perfectly normal and consistent with just about every other vintage Captain Cook I’ve handled. If you’re in the market for a diver that’s a bit off the beaten path, this is a solid option by all means. 

An eBay seller located in Woodhaven, New York, has this example of the Rado dive watch listed with a reasonable asking price of $2,000. You also have the option to make an offer. 

Cyma Multi-Scale Chronograph

Everyone loves a multi-scale chronograph, and when paired with a triple stepped bezel, they’re awfully hard to turn down. That’s why when a good friend forwarded me the link to this outstanding piece from Cyma, I knew it definitely had a place in this week’s roundup. At 38mm across, this 18k chronograph would have been rather oversized at the time of its release, making for a modern presence on the wrist today. 

If you’ve never seen this name on a dial before, don't worry – there's some good history here. Cyma got their start in 1862 when Joseph and Theodore Schwob established the brand with the goal of making watches out of components produced by other Swiss manufacturers and suppliers. This was extremely common at the time. Most of the brand’s more notable pieces would be manufactured following Cyma’s partnership with Tavannes in 1903, which resulted in the production of more chronographs and complicated timepieces. This is why you’ll often see watches with dials branded “Cyma Tavannes” and even “Ta-Cy” on certain examples. 

One things to note is that the bars between the lugs are fixed to the case. This means that you likely can’t put this Cyma on a leather strap you’ve already got handy. For a piece like this, you’ll need either a NATO-style strap, or an open-ended leather strap that can wrap around the lugs. The latter of the two is admittedly a tougher style strap to procure in this day and age, but they can typically be found on eBay with a little hunting around. For a watch like this, it would be worth the trouble.

Should you be in the mood for a multi-scale chronograph, this Cyma is being offered for sale on eBay. At the time of publishing, the high bid stands at $1,375. Click here to get in on the action. 

Offering an unprecedented and exhaustive look into a remarkable collection of Rolex dive watches, John Goldberger’s A Journey Into the Deep is a loving overview of Rolex’s history in the underwater world of diving and how the need to venture into the deep has forever changed the concept of what a sports watch should be. 

Travel back to 1953 and see the genesis of the dive watch and the birth of the now iconic Rolex Submariner. Follow along with the evolution of Rolex’s dive-ready watches though storied examples and highlights of each reference along the way. A Journey Into the Deep offers a complete chronology of Rolex’s diving watches, from the early days of sport diving to the wristwatch's extensive development as a tool for professional and military dive applications on to its life a commercial product for those fascinated by diving. 

Not only does this beautifully produced book offer an in-depth look at many specific and special Rolex dive watches, but it also provides fascinating background information on their development alongside diving, underwater exploration, and more. With deep context for even the most esoteric references, military-specific models, the Omani connection, and the partnership with COMEX, even the most seasoned dive watch enthusiast will find something new and exciting in A Journey Into the Deep.  

Revel in 132 pages filled with nearly 400 gorgeous photographs that establish this book as a must-have reference guide for any watch enthusiast who wants the inside story on the rarest and most notable dive watches from Rolex’s storied past. Want the low-down on the Deep Sea Special? Or perhaps a single red Sea-Dweller that is missing the usual helium escape valve? Be it prototype or production, Great White, COMEX, or Red Qaboos, A Journey Into the Deep goes to the bottom and back to share the history of these amazing vintage watches and the stories that brought them to life. 

Complete with a handy poster-style quick reference guide to the entire lineage of the Submariner in its many forms, A Journey Into the Deep is a wonderful guide and a glossy tribute to the world and history of Rolex dive watches. This book is available in a limited edition of just 500 copies, and you can purchase it now in the HODINKEE Shop packaged in a special HODINKEE-branded box. Click here for more details.

Quick Take

If you haven't gotten the memo yet, 2019 is the 25th anniversary of the Lange 1 and A. Lange & Söhne is taking an interesting approach to celebrating. Instead of releasing one or two limited edition anniversary watches, Lange is releasing 10 (yes, ten) over the course of the year. Each is limited to 25 pieces and so far it looks like they're all variations on a theme: Start with a beloved Lange 1 variation and give it a make-over in white gold with a two-tone silver dial and blue hands and markers. The movements also all feature a special blue-filled engraving on the balance cock of the signature big date display showing "25" among the other scroll work. The watch we're getting this month is the Little Lange 1, which is the standard time, date, and power reserve model  but in slightly more diminutive proportions. The case measures in at 36.8mm x 9.5mm, while the typical Lange 1 measures in at 38.5mm x 10.7mm. This watch is the third installment in the 25th anniversary series – we got the Lange 1 at SIHH in January and the Grande Lange 1 Moon Phase in February.

Initial Thoughts

I've gotta be honest: I really like the way Lange is handling this anniversary. Sure, on the one hand you could accuse the brand of milking things a bit, generating renewed attention every month of the anniversary year, but can you really blame them here? The Lange 1 is the watch that put them on the map and, I've said this before, but it's one of the only watches of the last 30 years that I'm comfortable calling an icon without an ounce of reservation. Additionally, I dig the fact that Lange's making these actually limited edition. By "actually" I mean that we're getting 25 of each, not 250 or 2,500. If you get one of these pieces, it's something special and something you'll unlikely to see on other wrists too often. The Little Lange 1 isn't the most popular Lange 1 model, but I really like it. The slightly smaller size wears really well on the wrist and the lack of a pusher for the big date display (it uses an inset adjuster) makes for a really streamlined case, if a complication that's slightly less convenient. 

The Basics

Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
Model: Little Lange 1 "25th Anniversary"
Reference Number: 181.066

Diameter: 36.8mm
Thickness: 9.5mm
Case Material: White gold
Dial Color: Solid silver with two-tone argenté finish
Indexes: Roman numerals
Lume: None
Strap/Bracelet: Blue alligator with grey stitching and white gold prong buckle

The Movement

Caliber: L121.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, oversized date, power reserve indicator
Diameter: 30.6mm
Thickness: 5.7mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Jewels: 43 (8 in screwed gold chatons)
Total Components: 368
Additional Details: Balance cock is engraved with 25th anniversary motif

Pricing & Availability

Price: €35,500
Limited Edition: 25 individually numbered pieces

For more click here.

Each week our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in. 

How to Move a Masterpiece - The Guardian

While admiring artwork at a museum, we often ponder its style, technique, significance, and value. But how often do we think about how that artwork was shipped? It turns out that the logistics of shipping artwork is extremely complicated and astronomically expensive. There are different schools of thought when it comes to shipping priceless masterpieces. Sometimes they are joined by a full motorcade and armed guards, even shutting down roads as they pass through. Other times, the shipment is purposefully made as low key as possible, as to not attract any attention at all. A common practice is to have a courier accompany the shipment “nail to nail”, that is from the moment an artwork is removed from the wall in museum A, until the moment it is hung on the wall of museum B, often halfway around the world. If you want to learn more, read Andrew Dickson’s in-depth article for The Guardian.

- Nicholas Manousos, Technical Editor

The Five Pitches That Would Make the Ultimate MLB Pitcher - ESPN

This past Thursday was opening day for Major League Baseball, which, as a Mets fan, means it's time for my annual five-month slide into accepting that there's always next year. But for now, let's bask in the optimism that comes with warmer weather, drinking a cold beer in front of the TV, and getting really nerdy about other people playing sports. This incredible package from ESPN breaks down some of the best pitchers in the game and why they're able to do what they do so well. It's wild.

– Stephen Pulvirent, Managing Editor

Why Clothing Quality is Declining in Your Favorite Brands - The Kavalier

My close friends and family know that I love clothes (sometimes too much). Recently, I’ve shifted from buying a lot to a little, and the one thing that has dictated that change is quality. Quality, when you can afford it, ensures longevity, humane working conditions, and minimization of any carbon footprint. Unfortunately, quality for most retailers is declining. This video offers insight into the economic strategies behind your favorite brands and why you’re probably better off looking elsewhere.

- Nic Clar, Design Associate 

Nile shipwreck discovery proves Herodotus right - after 2,469 years - The Guardian

There's nothing better than a little vindication, and this particular one goes back 2,469 years. The OG historian Herodotus, in his famous work The Histories, had described some ships he spotted in the Nile during his trip to Egypt that were nothing like any ship he had seen before. And apparently, no historian since had ever encountered a ship like the ones he described... until now with the discovery of a supporting shipwreck. For years, scholars have wondered if they were interpreting his texts incorrectly, but now they have archaeological proof that finally ends the debate.

- Ryan Lefevre, Sr. Software Engineer

Powerful Bering Sea Fireball Spotted from Space in NASA Photos - Space.com

At the beginning of Arthur C. Clark's 1973 sci-fi classic, Rendezvous With Rama, is the sentence, "Sooner or later, it was bound to happen." The "it" in question is a major meteor strike over a populated area in Italy, which causes mass casualties. That it's only a matter of time before this actually happens is a matter of fact, not conjecture, but it's an easy enough risk to ignore, more or less. However, we've had a couple of close calls in recent years, and last December an asteroid exploded over the Bering Sea with a force equal to 10 Hiroshima bombs. Space.com has the story, along with images of the earth-shattering kaboom captured by the Terra satellite.

- Jack Forster, Editor-In-Chief

If you happened to have missed this amazing piece by our own Joe Thompson when it published last March, cancel your Sunday morning plans. This is the first-hand, first person story of Joe's very first Baselworld. Travel back to 1979 as Joe jumps into the deep end of the Swiss watch industry and kicks off an attendance record that spans four decades!

We are thrilled and honored to have Joe operating as an Editor-At-Large for HODINKEE, and you don't have to look any further than this post to understand why. I myself have attended Baselworld for the last six years and have seen it change so much. Whether you're in the industry or simply a watch enthusiast, this is a fascinating, personal, and very entertaining look at Switzerland's longstanding watch fair. Do enjoy. 

Click here to read "Remembering My Very First Baselworld."

It's very easy in the echo chamber of watch enthusiast communities, as well as on the brand side, and indeed in the luxury industry in general, to forget that every one of our purchases and indeed, every one of our endorsements and opinions, has repercussions which reverberate far beyond the comfortable world in which we transact our businesses, enjoy our watches (and fine wines, expensive motorcars, and other appurtenances of la Dolce Vita). We at HODINKEE, however, have realized as we have grown both as a business, and as, we like to think, an arbiter of horological taste and a member of the larger horological community, that we have a responsibility as well – a responsibility to act, if we can, as a sort of conscience – a Jiminy Cricket, if you will – for enthusiast and brand executive alike.

Thus, it is with a sense of profound urgency that we must call both the industry and the community's attention to a matter of, we think, great interest and also great concern.

In recent years, we have all become aware of the burgeoning popularity of so-called salmon dials. We at HODINKEE understand and sympathize deeply with the desire to see more, and ever more, of these exquisitely colored dials, which have a warmth and expressive splendor both on and off the wrist, not easily found in any other dial. But with this exploding appetite, comes a consequence which we believe few have considered. Salmon dials, after all, don't appear in a vacuum by some miracle, nor do they grow on trees. Le vrai cadran de Saumon, indeed, has always come from the sleek and almost erotically compelling form of the various species of Salmonidae, and thereby hangs our sad tale of the decline of this noble fish, celebrated for centuries in story and song, for the sake of satisfying the tastes of, yes, watch enthusiasts.

In the early days of watchmaking, when salmon – no, Salmon – dials were first produced (the first Salmon dial is thought to have been produced around the 13th century, for the famous Salmon Dial astronomical cathedral clock, in the Belgian city of Liège) they were rarities, and salmon stocks so abundant that production little affected the salmon themselves, in their teeming millions. And even in later times, when as history tells us, great ships with their holds groaning with salmon brought their cargo to the legendary Fabrique de Cadrans à Saumon  in the mighty and ancient port of Le Havre (during the heyday of French horology, in the late Renaissance) it seemed that this essential resource could never be exhausted. But today, industrialized fishing and industrialized dial production methods have resulted in so vast a production of these formerly rare dials, that salmon populations world-wide teeter on the brink of irrevocable collapse.

We appeal, therefore, in the strongest terms to both industry and enthusiast alike: Stop the madness. True, serious enthusiasts will only accept Salmon dials made from real salmon, but we can no longer ignore the consequences of our untrammeled and indeed, ugly and indefensible appetites. We demand immediate devotion of all available resources to the creation of a suitable synthetic subsititute – perhaps, genetically engineered E-Coli bacteria may be created which can produce the requisite organic pigments – and urge all readers to consider the alarming facts contained in the report: Monterey Bay Aquarium White Paper: Landlocked Pathologically Secretive European Nation Is Harming Ocean Fish Stocks, Somehow?

Furthermore, we at HODINKEE will not simply stand by on the sidelines calling for action from others. We call upon industry leaders and readers alike to join our initiative, CAN THE SALMON. Every purchase of a HODINKEE limited edition priced above $100,000 will result in a not-yet-specified percentage of the full retail price being donated to the CAN THE SALMON Foundation, headquartered in Geneva and privately held, the better to reach, and indeed, resonate with, our desired audience in the watch industry. You'll receive, absolutely free, a HODINKEE baseball cap proudly carrying the logo of the CAN THE SALMON Foundation, to proclaim to all and sundry your support not merely of incredibly expensive watches, but of sustainable industry practices as well. Join us, and help CAN THE SALMON today.

This post sponsored by A Salmon. No salmon were harmed in the production of this article. Seriously though, we should all probably try to eat less charismatic megafauna. Living beings and watches can coexist. This article is satire and salmon dials are not actually made of salmon (but don't get us started on panda dials).

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us which guests we should have on!

Whether you know him as Cyclops from the X-Men, Teddy from Westworld, or Criss from 30 Rock, you almost certainly know James Marsden. He’s the guy with the leading man looks and the acting chops to back it all up.

I first met James a little over a year ago when he dropped by HODINKEE HQ on a trip to New York City. As you might expect, the guy is charming as hell – when he walks into a room, he owns it, whether he’s trying to or not. This can be a little intimidating, just as you'd expect. But then you get talking to James and realize that he’s actually just as big of a nerd as the rest of us. Sure, he has been an IWC brand ambassador for a few years, but he’s full-on watch crazy, rattling off reference numbers and talking movement preferences like it’s nothing. Why do you think he wanted to come to our office in the first place?

There was never any question that we needed to get him on HODINKEE Radio, and during a recent break in his shooting schedule we were finally able to make it happen. I’m a huge Westworld fan, so obviously I couldn’t help but ask James about the show and what it was like to play an android cowboy, but we also get into his early career, his obsession with espresso machines, and why we both think that most things become more fun the deeper you get into them.

I’m just going to go ahead and say it up front – I don’t think this is the last time you’ll be hearing James on this show. If I hadn’t had a flight to catch, I think we easily could have talked for a few more hours.

We hope you enjoy Episode 36 of HODINKEE Radio. Check out the show notes below and let us know what you think in the comments.

Wrist Check

I promise I didn't ask James to wear this watch to our recording, but I definitely wasn't disappointed when he rolled up with the IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII Edition "HODINKEE" on his wrist. In case you missed it, this is the limited edition collaboration we launched with IWC back in February, just a few weeks before James and I sat down. It's got a 39mm case made of Ceratanium and a time-only dial inspired by the original Mark XI. Paired with a denim shirt and a good sense of humor, it's just about the perfect daily-wearer. James tends to prefer watches with smaller cases and understated looks, so this one was a no-brainer for him.

Show Notes

9:45
X-Men Trailer

25:21
Hairspray Trailer

28:00
A. Lange & Söhne

30:08
Westworld Season 2 Trailer

47:00
IWC Talks To James Marsden

54:33
The New IWC Manufakturzentrum

55:00
HODINKEE Radio with Chris Grainger

57:30
Coffee Geek

59:50
Photo.net

1:06:50
James' IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII Edition "HODINKEE"

1:11:00
James in Anchorman 2

1:16:30
Petersen Automotive Museum

1:16:35
The Broad

Sure, the main reason to attend Baselworld each year is to see the latest and greatest releases from some of the biggest watch brands in the world. That new Jubilee-equipped "Batman" GMT from Rolex? Check. The ref. 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar from Patek Philippe? Done. A totally new kind of Spring Drive sports watch from Grand Seiko? You betcha. But if you keep your head up as you roam Hall 1 and the surrounding area, there's a lot more to enjoy than just the year's novelties. 

Everyone in the watch world knows that Baselworld is as much the place to be seen as it is the place to see. People get properly turned out and make sure that they've got their finest tickers on their wrists. We had a few of our photographers keep their shutter-fingers at the ready as we rolled from appointment to appointment, trying to capture the very best. Some of the faces (and watches) below might look familiar, while others might be new, but let us know your favorites down in the comments. Enjoy!

(P.S. – If you want more show style photos to enjoy, check out our reports from SIHH 2019 and Baselworld 2018 too.)

Photos: Grey Korhonen, Dave Aujero, James Stacey

Quick Take

Last year, Citizen showed, with surprisingly little fanfare, a fanfare-worthy achievement. This was the Caliber 0100, which was presented in a pocket watch case, as a non-production prototype. Though it was clear at first glance that the movement could easily be used in a production wristwatch, at the time there was no specific commitment from Citizen that this would happen. However, this year at Baselworld, Citizen debuted the Caliber 0100 wristwatch, in white gold and titanium cases, making a new record-holder for world's most accurate wristwatch a reality.

The new watch is housed in a 37.5mm x 9.1mm case and is being released as a limited edition – there will be 100 in white gold and a total of 700 in Super Titanium with Duratect. Of the 700 in titanium, 200 will have a mother of pearl dial. The accuracy of the watch derives from its very high frequency quartz oscillator, which runs at 8.4 MHz (8,388,608 Hz) as opposed to the 32,768 Hz frequency of a standard quartz watch. The cut of the quartz crystal is also different – the caliber 0100 uses what's called an AT-cut quartz crystal, which has a lozenge shape, rather than the tuning fork shape of a conventional quartz crystal. In addition, the oscillator is temperature-controlled, variations in temperature being the single most significant source of rate variation in quartz oscillators. 

According to Citizen, LIGA fabrication is used for elements of the gear train that drive the hands, in order to eliminate backlash, or play between gear teeth. Some degree of play between gear teeth, however minute, is necessary for a gear train to run but it can result in some imprecision in, for example the placement of a seconds hand with respect to dial markers. This approach to ensuring extreme precision in gear engagement is typically a feature of higher end mechanical watches (Patek Philippe uses a LIGA-fabricated wheel in the indirect center seconds train of the new 5212A Calatrava, and Rolex uses one in the Daytona, as Ben Clymer reported from his Rolex factory visit article in 2015). The specific approach to the problem of backlash in the Caliber 0100 is the use of a LIGA-fabricated anti-backlash spiral spring. Unlike everyday quartz movements, Caliber 0100 is also extensively jeweled, with a total count of 17.

The single biggest problem with high-accuracy, high frequency quartz watches historically has been battery life; higher frequency quartz oscillators use a lot of power and when Citizen came out with its 4.1 MHz Crystron Megaquartz in 1975, expected battery life was only about six months (according to Citizen). That watch was rated to a still-amazing ±3 seconds per year, but the short battery life was a commercial liability. It was however, an incredible feat for its time, and like the Caliber 0100, it used an AT-cut quartz crystal. Forty-four years later, the energy problem's been solved thanks to the Caliber 0100's use of solar-power, Eco-Drive technology, which gives the watch a six month power reserve (eight months in power-save mode) and it's worth noting that this is despite the fact that Caliber 0100 runs at about double the frequency of the Crystron. (The watch will run indefinitely if exposed to light on a regular basis; the six month power reserve is the running time if the watch is kept in total darkness).

Hands and applied indexes are faceted brass (an unusual choice for hands in a watch for which minimizing power consumption is an issue as they're on the heavy side) and the watches are hand-assembled in Japan. The relatively high level of hand-work, as well as the use of premium materials and very advanced mechanical and electronic timekeeping technology, are obvious signs that these are not going to be five hundred dollar watches but the price still came, to me, as an initial shock. Hold onto your knickers, Gertrude – the titanium models are $7,400, and the white gold model is $16,800.

Initial Thoughts

This is one of two record breaking watches released this year (the other being the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, which is the world's thinnest selfwinding chronograph) and as with all new records, it raises the question of when and if it's going to be broken. That Citizen now has bragging rights for indisputably the most accurate wristwatch ever made, doesn't necessarily mean no one else will attack that record. 

The Citizen Chronomaster

High precision timekeeping is a major priority at Citizen; for more, check out our hands-on with the Citizen Chronomaster.

AT cut quartz crystals were invented in 1938, and while Citizen's Eco-Drive tech is class-leading, other large watchmaking companies with semiconductor capacities also have the ability to deploy similar technology. But it's a major assertion of thought leadership on the part of Citizen to have produced this watch, and to have guaranteed the level of performance it provides, and though there are other firms that hypothetically could have done it, the fact remains that Citizen is the company that put in the work, and did the R&D, necessary to make this a reality. High frequency quartz watches are a fascinating sub-speciality of watch collecting – companies as varied as Omega, Bulova, Seiko, and Citizen itself have all produced such watches, both in the present and the past; as far as I can recall the record holder for quartz accuracy until today was actually the aforementioned Citizen Crystron. This is with the caveat that you can get better performance from wristwatches that calibrate themselves using radio frequency signals, either from terrestrial transmitters or from the GPS network, but these are not completely autonomous timekeepers, like the Caliber 0100. 

Now, depending on things like temperature, variation in quartz crystal performance, and other imponderables, you may very well get one second a year performance out of a watch not rated to that accuracy. I have a Citizen Eco-Drive Skyhawk that's probably nine or ten years old and when I first got it I measured its accuracy over the course of a year and it was slow by three seconds over 365 days. But there is a big difference between getting lucky in terms of performance, and being able to guarantee performance over that long a period. The industry standard practice for AT quartz crystals specifies the angle of deviation of the cut from the Z axis of the crystal (for instance) to within 0.0042 of a degree and the angle of the cut can be varied slightly in order to alter the rate stability of the crystal in a given temperature range to the desired spec. (Tighter tolerances will produce more consistent performance, but as is usually the case, it's more expensive.) This combined with some of the other technical features of the Caliber 0100 make it, at least for now, technically unique.

From a practical perspective this is all a bit moot, of course – most wristwatch owners won't especially notice the difference between ±10 seconds a year, and ±1 second a year, but this watch is not for most wristwatch owners (both in terms of performance and price). Its appeal will be strongest to those who are emotionally moved by achievements in high precision timekeeping. A client for the very expensive gold model, for instance, might also have a 2.4 MHz Omega Marine Chronometer or two in their collection, but they also might have high precision pendulum clocks (including a master-slave setup or two) and mechanical observatory chronometer wrist and pocket watches (and yes, I'm describing what my own collection would look like in a post-Powerball win universe). As with much high end watchmaking, whether mechanical or high precision quartz, a lot of the pleasure of ownership has to do with the pride one takes in having something superlative on your wrist. Excellence can be expressed in design, fit and finish, handwork, or in precision performance, and if you're fascinated by the latter to any degree, the Caliber 0100 is a watch worth watching.

The Basics

Brand: Citizen
Model: Caliber 0100
Reference Number: AQ6010-06A (gold), AQ6021-51E (titanium), AQ6020-53X (titanium with MOP dial)

Diameter: 37.5mm
Thickness: 9.1mm
Case Material: White gold or Super Titanium with Duratect; display back on the white gold model only
Dial Color: Cream (white gold model), metallic black or MOP (titanium models)
Indexes: Applied, faceted
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Crocodile leather strap with white gold pin buckle (gold model); Super Titanium bracelet with Duratect (titanium models)

The Movement

Caliber: 0100, Eco-Drive
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power Reserve: 6 months; 8 months in standby mode
Frequency: 8,388,608 Hz via an AT-cut quartz crystal which is thermocompensated
Jewels: 17
Chronometer Certified: Caliber 0100 laughs at your feeble chronometer certification
Additional Details: LIGA anti-backlash teeth in driving train for the hands; ruthenium coated with striped finish

Pricing & Availability

Price: $7,400 (titanium), $16,800 (white gold)
Availability: TBD
Limited Edition: 100 pieces in white gold, 200 pieces in titanium with MOP dial, and 500 pieces in titanium with black dial

Visit Citizen Watches online at citizenwatch.com.

Today, we’re excited to announce the latest HODINKEE strap collection: the Bedford. These straps are made right here in the U.S.A. using a unique, high quality nubuck leather. The Bedford is extremely versatile and is available in 10 colors and four sizes to cover all of your watch and occasion needs.

To achieve the distinctive finish you see here, the nubuck is lightly distressed and the result is a subtle suede-like texture. By using nubuck paired with a calfskin lining, you get the best of both worlds in terms of a suede appearance and increased durability over your standard suede calfskin strap.

The Bedford is offered in 10 hand-picked hues, from olive green to navy blue to chestnut brown. The color is even throughout the strap, with no staining, for an elevated look to dress up or down. Each strap features off-white all around stitching, which offers an additional aesthetic touch to increase wearability and versatility, as well as offering some extra durability.

Despite the increased durability of these straps, each one measures around 2mm thick, making for easy and comfortable wear.

The new Bedford straps are available now exclusively in the HODINKEE Shop for $165 each.

As always, we're available via live chat and at shop@hodinkee.com if you have any questions about the new Bedford Strap or any other products.

Coming out of Baselworld, there's always one question on everyone's minds: What watch from the show would you most want to buy yourself? Some people gravitate towards their grail pieces, while others just want something new and novel. We'll have more on those kinds of choices soon, but we wanted to kick things off by looking at the best new watches that you could feasibly wear every day. If you could only have one watch from Baselworld 2019 and you were going to wear it day-in, day-out for decades, these are the timepieces we'd recommend you give a closer look. There are a few usual suspects and a few choices that might surprise you, so read on and enjoy.

Cara Barrett – NOMOS Glashütte Orion Duo 33

For me, the runaway hit for everyday watch goes to a watch that isn’t necessarily “new” per se, but rather something reinvented in a new case size. The NOMOS Orion has always been a favorite of mine, with its Calatrava-style case and clean dial lines, and now it is available in a 33mm case and without the sub-seconds register. It's part of the new Duo collection of similarly-styled takes on NOMOS classics. This watch fills a gaping void in the market for accessible, well-made everyday ladies’ watches. The modest 33mm steel case and manual-winding caliber Alpha.2 are a stellar combo and the price is extremely reasonable at under $2,000 all-in.

$1,600; nomos-glashuette.com

Jon Bues – Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126170 BLNR

This Baselworld I stayed back in New York to focus on producing the HODINKEE Magazine, Vol. 4 (coming soon!). In between proofing stories, I was on the site, checking in for updates on new products and tuning in to the daily podcasts that the team produced. Picking the GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLNR as a daily wearer feels like a pretty easy choice. It’s hard to argue with any brand new modern Rolex that’s been updated to include a Chronergy escapement and a movement regulated to +2/-2 seconds per day, and I’m of the view that a GMT is the most useful complication out there. The Jubilee bracelet has really grown on me over time too. There’s something about how those perfectly symmetrical little semicircular links connect to form one of the most comfortable bracelets out there.

$9,250; rolex.com

Jack Forster – Ebel Sport Classic Titanium

One of the most interesting everyday watches I saw last month was actually not at Baselworld – it was in Davos, Switzerland. Davos is most famous as the home of the World Economic Forum, but for the last two years it's also played host to the Movado Group Davos Summit; this year is the first time press was able to attend. The Ebel Sport Classic Titanium will be a 200 piece limited edition, with either Roman or Arabic numerals and it's a very appealing watch on the wrist – it reminded me, in a good way, of the IWC Porsche Design Ocean 2000. The Ebel "Wave" case and bracelet is in its own way a modern watch design icon, and its suppleness in titanium makes it a very attractive candidate for a daily-wear watch. Look for it this November.

$2,950; ebel.com

James Stacey – Rolex Datejust 36 (2019 Update)

Seen here in steel with a white gold bezel, this new Rolesor Datejust 36 is a subtle evolution of the DJ that applies a greater number of Rolex's modern refinements to one of their most classic designs. It might not be as flashy as the new two-tone Sea-Dweller or Yacht-Master 42, but it's worth paying attention to nonetheless. At 36mm wide, this Datejust sings on a Jubilee bracelet with an updated design that makes the endlinks look like they disappear right into the case. Within, we find Rolex's modern calibre 3235 with the Chronergy escapement and a 70-hour power reserve. It looks like nearly any other Datejust but packs the latest and greatest from The Crown and looks incredible on-wrist. What's not to like?

$8,200; rolex.com

Cole Pennington – Bulova Oceanographer

When Bulova came out with an updated Devil Diver last year, I paid attention. But the heritage diver segment is just so crowded that I didn’t get the chance to really take it in. When I saw the Bulova Oceanogapher in this wicked shade of green, it certainly caught my eye; it was infatuation at first glance. You just don’t see too many unrestrained green dials offered by the big manufacturers. Watch dials are like car paint codes in this way: Most dials come in conservative colors because it’s what sells to the masses. It’s safe. Remember those weird ‘70s car colors, though? Viper green, Plum crazy, Ossi blue. That’s how you do a re-edition – you build a modern watch around a detail that unequivocally pegs it to a certain time in the past. I think Bulova properly drew from a color palette that could have certainly fit in back in the '70s.  I think I’ll call it Gerald Ford Green.

$795; bulova.com

Stephen Pulvirent – Grönefeld 1941 Principia

I know, I know, an "everyday" watch priced over $30,000? Hear me out. I can't argue at all with my colleagues that a Rolex Datejust or a NOMOS Orion would make a pretty perfect daily-wearer for most people, myself included. (I've said as much before.) But I wanted to pick the 1941 Principia from the Grönefeld brothers for a reason: This is true high-end independent watchmaking with a practical bent. Eschewing things like jumping seconds or a remontoire, the Dutch watchmakers created a simple three-hand, automatic watch available in a stainless steel case with understated style. I love the idea of a watch that has all the practical elements to make it easy to wear and a bit care-free, while still packing an incredible movement with superlative finishing inside. It's your little secret, and one you can enjoy with abandon.

€29,950; gronefeld.com

In the spring of 1866, George Schmidt and Frederick Ruoff decided to form a guild for the benefit of New York City watchmakers. Monthly lectures were scheduled, a library was formed and the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) was born. Today, HSNY is one of the oldest continuously operating watchmaking associations in the world. Every year since 1866, HSNY has held an annual gala dinner party, and HSNY's 2019 Gala & Charity Auction on Wednesday, April 17, is shaping up to be an incredible event. For the first time, HSNY’s biggest night of the year will be held at the Manhattan Penthouse, an exceptional event venue boasting panoramic views of the New York City skyline.

At the Gala, the Henry B. Fried Scholarship recipients will be announced. For 2019, HSNY will award multiple scholarships of $10,000 each, designed to assist students at full-time watchmaking schools in the United States. In addition, the Howard Fass Award will be presented. The Howard Fass award is given to individuals judged to have shown extraordinary dedication to the ideals which HSNY pursues. This award is HSNY’s highest honor, and has only been given once before. The Howard Fass award will be presented to a recipient who has dedicated their life and career to horological education, guiding hundreds of watchmaking students through school and into their professional careers.

The celebration will continue with a charity auction presented by Christie’s. This year’s auction focuses on one-of-a-kind experiences, including a dinner at The Grill (formerly The Four Seasons) with our own editor-in-chief, Jack Forster, and managing editor, Stephen Pulvirent, an all-expense-paid trip to Switzerland donated by Watchonista, and a private watchmaking class at HSNY's classroom, taught by the legendary independent watchmaker François-Paul Journe.

The Gala will feature a cocktail reception with hors d’oeuvres, a gourmet dinner with premium open bar, and live music, all adorned with a backdrop of the Manhattan night sky. Tickets to the HSNY 2019 Gala & Charity Auction are priced at $200 per person. Table reservations seating 10 guests are priced at $1,500. Manhattan Penthouse is located at 80 Fifth Avenue at 14th Street, one block west of Union Square.

All proceeds from ticket sales and the charity auction go towards the Horological Society of New York's ongoing educational programs. I hope to see you there!

Charity Auction preview will be held at the HSNY office & classroom from 2pm-4pm, Tuesday, April 16, 2019.

HODINKEE is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.

Anyone who spends a decent amount of time (or an indecent amount of time, for that matter) looking at watches will undoubtedly have developed a particular taste. We here at HODINKEE HQ certainly have. Cole loves himself a beat-up vintage diver. Jack can't help himself when it comes to an esoteric complication. Stephen will barely look at a watch if it has more than three hands. But sometimes we surprise ourselves. Sometimes you can't help but love something, no matter how much it might conflict with your usual preferences. Here are the watches that, upon seeing them at Baselworld, our editors couldn't help but love – even against their better judgement.

Cara Barrett – Rolex Day-Date 36 Rainbow Ref. 128345RBR

I would be remiss if I didn’t say that my guilty pleasure watch is the latest Rainbow Rolex – the Day-Date 36 Rainbow Ref. 128345RBR. This precious metal classic gets an upgrade with pavé diamond-set center links, bezel, and dial with rainbow sapphire indexes. The watch is available in white, rose, and yellow gold and retails for just a hair under $125,000. It has the brand spanking new movement – the caliber 3255 – and looks fantastic on the wrist, if I don’t say so myself. And what is a guilty pleasure without a little sparkle? Pretty dull I would say (no judgement on the rest of my teammate’s choices though).

$124,250; rolex.com

Jon Bues – Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

This is a watch with genuine horological pedigree, it's the product of rigorous R&D, and it has a design that is really all its own in today's watch landscape. It's also an in-house automatic chronograph with GMT function that doesn't crack the $20k mark. All of this is to say that it's debatable whether or not a watch like the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic makes sense as a guilty pleasure pick. But I think it does for me. While I can appreciate avant-garde designs in watches, the timepieces that I wear most often would be fairly described as conservative. I've found myself thinking about this watch a lot since its first write up on our site, and if I were to go for it, it would be the guiltiest pleasure in my collection.

$17,600; bulgari.com

Jack Forster – Grand Seiko SBGZ001 20th Anniversary Of Spring Drive Platinum Limited Edition

A Grand Seiko as a guilty pleasure? It says something about just how far Grand Seiko has come that this is even possible, but here we are in 2019 with a Grand Seiko that's set a new record for price for the firm, at $76,000. The thought of that kind of a price tag on a Grand Seiko comes as an initial shock, but the watch is just so good – the hand carved platinum case and "snowflake" dial are a delicious combination, and inside is a Spring Drive hand-wound movement so gorgeous it gives the Eichi II a run for its money. Yes, by all means, now and forever, yes.

$76,000; grand-seiko.com

James Stacey – Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT

Yes, it's a gold Ferrari Hublot, I know. Despite it being as much of an outlier as you can get from my general taste, I'm rather about the new Classic Fusion Ferrari GT. It is 45mm wide but wears smaller due to its dished case shape, this is the premium version in King Gold (you could go for titanium or 3D Carbon, but this is a guilty pleasures round up). It doesn't wear or look like any other Hublot Classic Fusion and I like that it was designed by Ferrari and that the branding is limited to the prancing horse at 12 o'clock. It's also an ideal guilty pleasures pick as I don't think I'd have one without a Ferrari to call my own, perhaps a GTC4Lusso in Verde British. Really, anything with a V12.  

$38,800 (in King Gold); hublot.com

Cole Pennington – MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT

Max Büsser built the FlyingT for the ladies in his life. It’s sort of a tribute to his wife and daughter, but without the backstory, it’s just a crazy watch. And it’s a crazy watch that I think I’d love to wear. There aren’t really any definitive gender design cues present anyway. The whole thing is just bonkers. To be clear, I can’t really get into any watch with diamonds, but hell, if I’m going to wear this thing, might as well go for the iced-out version right? I really like the HM7 Aquapod, and I’m a huge sucker for domed crystals on vintage divers, and this is just like that except to the Nth power. A massive beautiful bubble encapsulates a flying tourbillon with a cantilevered double arch upper bridge. Gorgeous. Guilty as charged. 

Stephen Pulvirent – Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In White Gold

At first glance, you might be thinking "guilty pleasure, really?" But think about it. At its core, the new Yacht-Master 42 is a Rolex sports watch, which is about the most no-nonsense sort of daily-wearer you could imagine. Only, this Rolex sports watch is larger than usual (42mm), made of precious metal (white gold), sports a slick-as-hell bezel (made of relief-engraved matte black ceramic), and is mounted on a rubber strap (more properly the beautifully over-engineered Oysterflex bracelet). So yeah, it's a "Rolex sports watch" but only in the loosest sense. In actuality, it's a totem to having fun, caring not-at-all about the sideways glances you'll get from purists, and embracing Rolex's slightly more whimsical side. I'm fully onboard.

$27,800; rolex.com