Keeping in step with their theme of making ultra-thin and ultra-high-tech watches, Bulgari has released two additional pieces in the Octo Finissimo Collection – the Automatic Ceramic and the Skeleton Ceramic. Both watches are made in black ceramic, one with a solid dial and the other with a skeletonized dial. Both watches measure up at 40mm in diameter and 5.5mm top to bottom. They both feature high performing movements, the automatic caliber BVL 138 Finissimo (60-hour power reserve) and the BVL 128SK Finissimo (65-hour power reserve). Both are fitted with the ultra-thin and wearable Finissimo bracelet made of black ceramic as well.
The Octo Finissimo Skeleton Ceramic (left) and the Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic (right).
Initial Thoughts
I am a big fan of the Octo Finissimo however, one must ask themselves if too much of a good thing is, well, too much. Both these watches certainly have their redeeming qualities – high performing calibers with the increasingly popular ceramic material. Call me old fashioned but I prefer the original Octo Finissimo in Titanium and get way more amped by new releases such as the new thinnest automatic chronograph ever made. That said, it’s important to create pieces that people can actually buy and wear and Bulgari gets this. The continue to produce high-end watches for women and men alike while pushing technological feats. Also, ceramic is a pretty cool material to wear on the reg.
The Octo Finissimo Ceramic features a black matte dial with eccentric seconds.
The Basics
Brand: Bulgari Model: Octo Finissimo Skeleton Ceramic
Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 5.5mm Case Material: Ceramic Dial Color: Skeletonized or black Indexes: Stick indexes with exaggerated Arabic numeral 12 and 6 Lume: N/A Water Resistance: N/A Strap/Bracelet: Ceramic bracelet
The Movement
Caliber: BVL 128SK for the skeletonized version and BVL 138 for the solid version Functions: Time only Thickness: 3.30mm Power Reserve: 65 hours/60 hours Winding: Manual/automatic
The automatic caliber BVL 138 Finissimo in the Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic.
The BVL 128SK Finissimo caliber used in the Octo Finissimo Skeleton Ceramic.
The folks at Bulgari have done it again. What we've got here is another record-setting watch in the Octo Finissimo line, this time an automatic chronograph with a GMT function that can proudly claim the title of being the world's thinnest mechanical chronograph. Seeing "6.9mm thick" on the spec sheet is one thing, but we're actually having a hard time envisioning what that's going to feel like on the wrist as a chronograph – it's so much thinner than what we usually see these days, even setting aside the prolific use of modular chronograph movements. As with many previous Octo Finissimo watches, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic has an angular case made of sandblasted titanium with a titanium dial and a titanium bracelet to match. It comes in at 42mm edge-to-edge and the dial's oversized registers use minimal typography and markings to keep it from looking cluttered. The entire package appears sleek and streamlined.
At the center of all of this is a brand new movement, the Caliber BVL 318. The movement is just 3.3mm thick, setting yet another record: this is the thinnest automatic chronograph caliber ever made. When you add the fact that it's got a GMT function, you're getting even more bang for your proverbial buck. Looking at the caliber, you'll notice that there's no traditional rotor. To make the movement this thin, Bulgari had to utilize a peripheral rotor in solid platinum, hence the increased diameter. The BVL 318 offers a 55 hour power reserve and you can adjust the local time by pushing the button set into the case at nine o'clock, making it easier to quickly change time zones on the go. Finishing looks very much in line with what we've seen in other Octo Finissimo pieces – it's thorough and attentive, but with a bit of a cool, industrial vibe to it.
Initial Thoughts
We've both long been fans of Bulgari's Octo Finissimo watches. They're just so ... well, different. There's honestly nothing else like them on the market, which is a rare thing in this day and age. The overall design is a little aggressive, but the watches are super comfortable on the wrist and feel rich in personality without being too loud. While it's easy to understand the technical achievements that are an ultra-thin automatic tourbillon and an ultra-thin carbon minute repeater, we want to make it abundantly clear that an ultra-thin automatic chronograph like what we've got here is no less a marvel. This is some really serious watchmaking at work and I'm thoroughly looking forward to getting some up-close-and-personal time with this watch and its movement in the next couple of days.
Just for some context, a new in-house automatic chronograph of any kind is a rarity – chronographs are inherently difficult to design and manufacture, and automatic chronos, even more so (which is why the Valjoux/ETA 7750 and its clones and variants are found in so many watches to this day, despite its having been originally designed, by the brilliant Edmond Capt, in the early 1970s). Extra flat chronograph movements are even more scarce, and extra flat/ultra thin automatic chronographs are an even rarer breed – so much so that the record-holder prior to the introduction of this watch from Bulgari has been around since 1987.
That movement is the F. Piguet (now Manufacture Blancpain) caliber 1185, which is 5.5mm thick and which is based on the hand-wound F. Piguet 1180, which is only 3.95mm thick. (Piaget's caliber 883P, in the Altiplano chronograph, is only 4.65mm thick but that's a hand-wound caliber). While relatively many companies have invested in ultra-thin watches ranging from time-only pieces, to tourbillons and perpetual calendars, no one has tried seriously to produce anything thinner than the Piguet/Blancpain calibers in decades and it is remarkable that it's been left to Bulgari to finally break the record with this column-wheel controlled, peripheral rotor caliber. The F. Piguet 1180/85 calibers were superb technical achievements in their day but clearly, the genre was due for attack by someone with the technical ability and persistence necessary to succeed and it's a testimony to Bulgari that it's no longer surprising that it was in fact Bulgari that broke the record.
What really sends this watch over the top is just how customer-friendly it is. Setting records and achieving milestones is great and all, but ultimately I like seeing watches that people are actually going to wear and enjoy out in the real world. The combination of a chronograph and a GMT function in an ultra-thin watch on a well-integrated bracelet is going to put a lot of smiles on a lot of faces.
Diameter: 42mm Thickness: 6.9mm Case Material: Sandblasted titanium Dial Color: Sandblasted titanium Indexes: Arabic numerals and batons Lume: None Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Sandblasted titanium bracelet with folding clasp
The Movement
Caliber: Caliber BVL 318 Functions: Hours, minutes, running seconds, GMT, chronograph with 30-minute totalizer Thickness: 3.3mm Power Reserve: 55 hours Winding: Automatic with peripheral platinum rotor Additional Details: GMT timezone is adjusted via a pusher at nine o'clock
Pricing & Availability
Price: $17,600 Availability: July/August 2019 Limited Edition: No
All four of these watches should look pretty familiar to you if you're a NOMOS fan. The new Duo collection takes the Ludwig, Tangente, Orion, and Tetra and reinterprets them as simple two-hand watches with extremely clean dials and beautiful gold hands. The three round models measure up at just a hair under 33mm across, while the Tetra measures 27.5mm on each side, approximating the same feel on the wrist. The dials are the signature NOMOS galvanic silver color, but the addition of gold hands adds a bit of warmth that pairs nicely with the beige straps.
All four of the Duo models come with solid steel casebacks. While this has the pleasant side effect of keeping the prices down a bit (all four models come in under $1,700), it also opens up space for engraving. Just as they did with the Club Campus models, NOMOS is including engraving at no cost on request, encouraging customers to purchase these as gifts for special occasions.
Initial Thoughts
It is probably the least surprising news of Baselworld 2019 that I absolutely love these watches. NOMOS found a way to take a few time-only, hand-wound watches and make them even simpler. I mean, come on. That's just awesome. I really dig the use of the gold hands here (something that NOMOS has done smartly before, with watches like the 1989 models) and the beige straps are right up my alley too. My only complaint? At 32.8mm, these watches are a little too small for me to wear. I like smaller watches, but these are going to be women's watches for most customers. To NOMOS's credit, that's how they're presenting and marketing the Duo collection, but if a 35mm or 38mm Tangente Duo were to appear some day, I'd have my credit card out faster than you can say "time-only."
The Basics
Brand: NOMOS Glashütte Model: Ludwig 33 Duo, Tangente 33 Duo, Orion 33 Duo, and Tetra 33 Duo Reference Number: 6.5mm (Ludwig), 120 (Tangente), 319 (Orion), 405 (Tetra)
Diameter: 32.8mm (Ludwig, Tangente, and Orion), 27.5 x 27.5 (Tetra) Thickness: 6.5 (Ludwig), 6.5 (Tangente), 7.6mm (Orion), 6.1mm (Tetra) Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Galvanized, white silver-plated Indexes: Printed (Ludwig, Tangente, Tetra), Applied batons (Orion) Lume: None Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Beige leather velour strap
The Zenith Defy Lab was introduced in September of 2017, and the heart of that watch was the Zenith Oscillator. The Zenith Oscillator is a single silicon component which incorporates the functions of the balance wheel, balance spring, and lever (in a conventional lever escapement). It's one of a very small group of experimental oscillators which take advantage of the compliant, or spring-like, qualities of silicon, and which also includes the Ulysse Anchor Escapement, from Ulysse Nardin, as well as the Genequand oscillator, which was introduced by Parmigiani Fleurier in June of 2016.
The Defy Lab was announced as a very limited series of what were essentially concept watches and only 10 were produced, but this year, Zenith's announced the Zenith Defy Inventor, which will be produced, says the brand, in the hundreds – still a very small number relatively speaking, but one which obviously reflects the fact that the oscillator can in fact be successfully industrialized. The Defy Inventor's version of the oscillator shows some interesting updates to the original design, as well.
Initial Thoughts
The original Zenith Defy Lab from 2017, with the 15 hertz caliber ZO 342.
The Defy Inventor will be a welcome development to anyone who's been waiting with bated breath for next steps from Zenith with respect to their oscillator – whenever a radically new escapement or escapement technology is introduced, it's often (representations from the brand notwithstanding) anyone's guess as to whether or not it's going to end up in series production. There are obvious similarities between the Defy Lab and the Defy Inventor – the case shape, and the overall configuration of the oscillator are largely the same, and both watches use the same hand set, dial markers, and even crown. The two cases are identical in size as well, both coming in at 44mm x 14.5mm.
The upper bridge holding the oscillator in place has a slightly different configuration in the Inventor. The case of the Defy Lab was made entirely from a material called Aeronith, which is an aluminum foam the voids of which are filled with a stabilizing polymer. The Inventor goes a slightly more conventional route, with a titanium case; Aeronith is used only for the bezel.
The Zenith Defy Inventor comes with some important performance updates and upgrades.
From a performance standpoint, probably the most significant tweaks are to the frequency of the oscillator, as well as the configuration of the escape wheel teeth. The Defy Lab version of the oscillator has a frequency of 15 hertz, or 108,000 vph, while the new version runs at a slightly higher frequency – 18 hertz, or 129,600 vph.
Another very interesting modification is to the configuration of the escape wheel. The original's escape wheel was a single piece of silicon. The latest version, however, uses an escape wheel with flexible teeth, presumably to improve the security of the action and to offer more efficient energy transfer.
Caliber ZO 342 in action, in the original Defy Lab.
Closeup of the escape wheel in the Defy Inventor caliber ZO 9100, with flexible teeth.
Changing the escape wheel configuration and frequency almost certainly represents an effort to address teething problems (as it were) in the original caliber, which seems to have borne fruit. The Defy Lab didn't come with any specific assurances of performance, however the Inventor is chronometer certified by Timelab, and it's also antimagnetic per ISO-7644 (no surprise, given the fact that silicon is amagnetic) and it's certified insensitive to temperature, per ISO-3159, which is the general standard for chronometers (and the standard used by both COSC and Timelab).
Diameter: 44mm Thickness: 14.5mm Case Material: Brushed titanium with Aeronith bezel Dial Color: Blue openworked Lume: Super-LumiNova on indexes and hands Water Resistance: 50 meters Strap/Bracelet: Black rubber strap with blue alligator leather top and titanium double butterfly clasp
The Movement
Caliber: ZO 9100 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds Diameter: 32.80mm Thickness: 8.13mm Power Reserve: 50 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 18 Hz (129,600 vph) Jewels: 18 Chronometer Certified: Yes, by Timelab Additional Details: One piece silicon Zenith Oscillator, replacing conventional balance, balance spring, and lever.
Pricing & Availability
Price: $17,800 Availability: July 2019 Limited Edition: No, but limited production ("several hundred units" according to the manufacturer).
This year's biggest horological anniversary might be the 50th birthday of the Zenith El Primero. The incredible movement and the watch that introduced it to the world – the A386 – changed the game entirely back in 1969. Sure, there were other automatic chronographs unveiled that year, but Zenith's was the only one to feature a high-speed 5 Hz (36,000 vph) escapement for greater precision and accuracy. It has gone on to become one of the most storied movements of the 20th century and, despite briefly going out of production, it's been a mainstay in Zenith's arsenal for almost its entire lifespan.
The big question was how Zenith would celebrate such an important anniversary. Back in January they showed us a box set of El Primeros that shows off the various incarnations of the movement from over the years, but fans have anxiously been awaiting that special standalone anniversary piece. What Zenith is giving us is the El Primero A386 Revival, a faithful recreation of the watch that started it all, only rendered in a trio of precious metals (white, rose, and yellow gold). The A386 Revival still measures up at 38mm across, still features a classic 5 Hz El Primero movement, and still has that distinctive tri-color dial. It's a quintessential El Primero through and through, just in a slightly more luxe package. Each version is limited to just 50 pieces and they are going to be sold individually, not as a three-piece set.
An original Zenith El Primero A386.
Initial Thoughts
One of the conundrums facing Zenith fans over these past few months was an odd one: What would Zenith do to commemorate and celebrate the original El Primero since it already makes an almost identical watch and has for years. It turns out the answer was even simpler than the question. Zenith made the watch everyone would have expected, only they did it in precious metals and in very, very limited quantities. Honestly, I'm shocked that this watch is being made in 50 pieces per metal and not 500. The El Primero is a very popular watch and I've got to imagine that 150 pieces will be spoken for before you can finish reading this sentence.
Now, as far as the watches themselves go, I like them quite a bit. That tri-colored dial has always struck me as one of the smarter and more subtle uses of color in watch design and the bold black inner track gives the watch some extra oomph. I do think I would prefer a slightly more contrasty dial with the yellow and rose gold versions (a la the ref. A381), but the white gold Revival is a total sleeper hit. Even looking straight at it, I don't think most people will be able to tell that it isn't a steel watch. Only by picking it up or wearing it and feeling the heft would you know. It's safe to say that this is one I want to get onto my wrist sooner rather than later.
A closer look at the three colored sub-registers.
The Basics
Brand: Zenith Model: El Primero A386 Revival Reference Number: 65.A386.400/69
Diameter: 38mm Thickness: 12.6mm Case Material: White, rose, or yellow gold Dial Color: White lacquer with tri-color sub-dials Indexes: Arabic numerals Lume: Yes, on hands and hour markers Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator strap with rubber lining and gold pin buckle (matching case metal)
The Movement
Caliber: El Primero 499 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers Diameter: 30mm Thickness: 6.6mm Power Reserve: 50 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 5 Hz (36,000 vph) Jewels: 31 Total Components: 278
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 19,900 (same for all three versions) Availability: Summer 2019 Limited Edition: 50 pieces in each metal
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While Baselworld technically doesn't open until tomorrow, today was the press preview day and thus our first day at the 2019 fair. After our first few appointments, we gathered some of the team in the living room of an Airbnb and downloaded on our first thoughts after seeing the new layout of the fair, a few early product leaks, and the new watches from Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Tudor. It might have only been a half-day at the show, but there was still a ton to talk about. Jack gets into how this year's fair is different from any he's been to before, Cara (predictably) points out the sleeper rainbow hit, Ben talks about what makes Patek grand complications special, and Stephen shares why he thinks weird watches are sometimes the best watches – and we even get a surprise visit from James and Cole to talk about their highlights from day one.
Check out this clip for a peek inside the "studio" from today's recording session:
Give the show a listen and let us know in the comments below what you want us to talk about tomorrow. Enjoy, and see you then!
Sometimes it's the simplest watches that are the hardest to get your head around. When a brand introduces something totally new and out of left field, you can look at it with fresh eyes and suss out the positives and negatives without presuppositions. However, when something evolves in subtle, nuanced ways, it can be hard to decode exactly what's happening and whether you think the supposed improvements really are improvements at all. After spending some time earlier today with Rolex's latest GMT-Master II, the ref. 126710 BLNR "Batman," I'm happy to say that this is pretty much a strictly better version of the blue and black GMT that came before it (the 116710 BLNR, in case you forgot).
The 126710 BLNR has the new and improved caliber 3285 inside and a new rendition of the Jubilee bracelet that's absolutely incredible. Be sure to notice how the end links are different, appearing to disappear right into the watch itself instead of ending with hard edges. On the wrist it's a dream. The shade of blue on the bezel looks a bit more intense to my eyes, though Rolex hasn't said anything about changing the Cerachrome colors. For me, this is about as charming and awesome as a modern sports watch can get.
TTSD, baby! While I don't think I ever so much as considered the possibility of a two-tone Sea-Dweller, now that it's here it makes more sense than I might have expected. This new Sea-Dweller, reference 126603, remains 43mm wide with a tapered oyster bracelet, but now we have a bevy of gold accents and an updated 3235 movement. If you want to take some gold to 4,000 feet under the water, Rolex can now make that happen. Lucky you!
While I am in no way a blanket supporter of two-tone watches, few do the look better than Rolex, and the Rolesor Sea-Dweller rocks 18k yellow gold on the markings of the Cerachrom bezel, the bracelet center links, the crown, the markers, and the hands. Even the model designation "Sea-Dweller" is printed in a yellow gold color to lock in the general scheme. I think that within the vibe of a two-tone watch, the Sea-Dweller looks great with a bit of gold. It takes a serious concept – a purpose-built tool watch for extreme environments – and adds a bit of levity.
The TTSD is technically the same as its all-steel predecessor, using Rolex's modern calibre 3235. This movement offers enhanced protection against magnetic interference, a Parachrom hairspring, a Chronergy escapement, and a power reserve of 70 hours. It's a perfect example of how Rolex makes improvements that most people never hear about or understand but that make the watches better in real, tangible ways.
On wrist, the Sea-Dweller is no less chunky than the steel version, but the gold feels somehow more in line with this model's entirely over-built perspective. Two-tone has long been a popular model within the Submariner range, so why not a Sea-Dweller to match?
I think if you just want a Sub, you buy a Sub. But if you're open to something a bit more fun, a bit more "why?", the Sea-Dweller is cool and this two-tone version is a bit more flashy and makes me dream of a day where we see a solid gold Sea-Dweller. It's chunky, it's got some gold, and it retails for $16,050. Be still my (currently) gold-plated heart.
It's spring in Basel, so why not launch a khaki green version of Patek's fullsized "Jumbo" Aquanaut? The new 5168G-010 is a 42.2mm Aquanaut with a green dial that I would describe more as "olive drab" than "khaki." But you do you. That warm green dial is surrounded by a white gold case and a matching khaki green rubber strap with a proper Patek fold-over clasp. This is color used for effect and this Aquanaut is fun, trendy, and really good on wrist. It retails for $35,000, and you can get all of the specs right here.
To celebrate the legacy of its founder, Joseph Bulova, the eponymous brand is releasing a brand new collection of watches inspired by the 1920s, '30, and '40s, the last great age of American watchmaking. The watches all take their design cues from watches of that period, even pulling numeral fonts and details from specific watches in Bulova's archive, including the Commodore, Bankers, and Breton models.
There are three different sub-families within the Joseph Bulova collection, each defined by a different case shape: Round, Tonneau, and Tank. We'll break each family down below, but all three share the same automatic Swiss movement, the Sellita SW200, a reliable three-hand-with-date movement with 26 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve. As used here there's also a custom-designed rotor to complete the package.
This is a limited edition collection too, with only 350 pieces being produced of each individual reference (metal, dial, and bracelet/strap combo).
Round
The simplest models of the bunch, the Round Joseph Bulova pieces come in both 34mm and 38mm sizes, which should help them fit a variety of wrists, and there are a ton of metal, dial, and bracelet options too (including a version with a handsome salmon dial and blued hands). The Art Deco numerals are sharp and look nice with the unusual hands. The case itself has unusual lugs that sit somewhere between traditional lugs and wire lugs, and there's the option of a nine-link bracelet for both the steel and gold-PVD models.
Tonneau
This is my favorite of the bunch. The Tonneau shape always feels very aligned with Bulova and other early 20th century American watchmakers to me, and this execution is very nice. You've got those chunky lume-filled numerals surrounding an elegant railroad track for the minutes, and the date is integrated in an unobtrusive way too. When I get to the Bulova booth at Baselworld, the silver-dialed Tonneau will be the first thing I ask to try on.
Tank
Finishing things off we have the rectangular Tank models. You get the same block-like numerals found on the Tonneau models, but with an outer minute track and a more angular case. Notice, the case isn't a hard rectangle – it actually has cut corners, giving the watch a slightly more period look overall. I'm very curious to see how this one wears on the optional bracelet. It could be a real winner.
The very first Spring Drive watches from Seiko (which is a slightly redundant thing to say, as there are no Spring Drive watches from anyone else) appeared in 1999, and since then, they've stood alone as a unique form of watchmaking technology. Spring Drive movements are similar to conventional movements in many respects – there is a mainspring, and a conventional going train. However, where the escapement would be in an ordinary watch, a Spring Drive movement has a regulating system consisting of a "glide wheel," which is driven by the going train, but which acts as an electrical generator to produce a minute amount of current. This is used to power an electromagnetic brake, which acts on the glide wheel to control its rate of revolution. A quartz timing package regulates the energy received by the brake, to make the glide wheel rotate exactly eight times per second. (For an in-depth exploration of the development and technology of Spring Drive, check out our video on the subject).
The platinum 30 piece limited edition SBGZ001.
Though parallel research was conducted in Switzerland on conceptually similar technology, it was never brought to market and so, Spring Drive remains exclusive to Seiko. Although there have been some manual-wind Spring Drive movements in the past (including the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8-Day watches, as well as of course, the Credor Eichi II and other high-watchmaking Credor watches) in general, regular production Spring Drive timepieces have been automatic. The four new 20th Anniversary models all feature hand-wound Spring Drive movements, and all are part of the Elegance Collection (as are the Slim Hand-Wound limited editions, recently introduced).
The "snowflake" dial is matched by the decoration on the hand-engraved case.
Two of the new watches are cased in platinum, and have a new movement very closely related to that used in the Eichi II. The new caliber 9R02 appears to be very similar to the Eichi II caliber 7R14, however the bridge outline differs slightly between the two movements, and caliber 9R02 has a longer power reserve – 84 hours, versus 60 for the 7R14. One of the two platinum timepieces is a limited edition of 30, and features the famous "snowflake" pattern dial, with a hand-carved platinum case that matches the dial finish. This watch has a gold plate on the movement which is engraved "Micro Artist" for the Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, where both platinum watches are made and where the hand finishing is completed by the same team responsible for the highly regarded finish of the Eichi II. This plate, if the client prefers, can be engraved with their name instead. Both watches have hands and hour markers made from 14k white gold. All the dial markings, including the minute markers, are engraved; there are no printed dial elements.
The movement owes its long power reserve partly to the Spring Drive "Torque Return System" which harvests excess torque from the first part of the power reserve and returns it to the mainspring. As with the Eichi II, there is a power reserve indication as well, but it's on the movement plate, rather than on the dial. Both watches are 9.8mm thick and 38.5mm in diameter, and both watches are both produced by the Micro Artist Studio.
SBGY003, in steel, with sunray pattern dial.
The other two watches also use a new movement, which is the Spring Drive caliber 9R31. This caliber is similar in broad strokes to the 9R02, however, instead of the 9R02's complex bridgework, there is a full-plate architecture. The Torque Return System is omitted in the 9R31, which has a lower power reserve than 9R02 – a still-respectable 72 hours. Cases are gold or steel, and slightly thicker than the platinum models, at 10.2mm.
Initial Thoughts
Grand Seiko has in recent years produced an increasing number of models for the international market in precious metals and as limited editions; the intention clearly is to not just make beautiful watches in a wider and wider range of materials and prices, but also to reinforce the perception of Grand Seiko as luxury-level watchmaking, on a par with or better than anything produced in Switzerland. To a certain extent, this is an unnecessary exercise, as qualitatively it's clearly the case, but it does demonstrate Grand Seiko's stated goals for the future. All this is to merely state the obvious, but it's worth reflecting on as the brand continues to transition from its status (which was largely default) in international markets as an insider's secret, to its hoped-for status as a global and powerful presence.
SBGY002 in 18k yellow gold, with "snowflake" dial.
In a sense, this new collection is Seiko-for-the-future in a nutshell. We have a couple of very, very high-end, high-craft, small-batch timepieces at the very top (the platinum limited edition is $76,000, which I think might be a record for Grand Seiko) but we also have a sub-$10,000 model (the steel version is $7600) with the same general value-proposition – obsessive attention to detail, and a unique watchmaking technology that offers a unique aesthetic.
SBGZ003, platinum case.
The fact that Grand Seiko makes luxury-level and luxury priced watches isn't a new thing in the Japan domestic market, but it is a relatively new thing in the international market. Grand Seiko continues to offer many dozens of watches that still represent the understated, bang-for-the-buck, high-craft character for which Grand Seiko is famous (the truly wonderful GMT, SBGM22, is at this writing a $4,600 watch) but it will be interesting to see whether public perception shifts as the offerings in the international market, at the higher end, continue to expand.
Of course, this is hardly an unusual pricing strategy for any luxury watch brand. To some extent, how we knew Grand Seiko prior to its international launch was determined, outside Japan, exclusively by the activities of a relatively small number of collectors, who were either very well traveled or very stubborn, or very both; now it's still being very much determined by the firm's vocal and highly engaged audience, but also by Grand Seiko itself. The ultimate test, of course is going to be the watches – if Grand Seiko continues to produce idiosyncratically Japanese, highly thoughtful, beautifully crafted watches, there's no reason to fear it will stumble on its journey into the future (in my view, anyway).
Caliber 9R31.
From an enthusiast and collector perspective, these are significant watches in several respects. The only hand-wound Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches heretofore have been the 8-Day models and of course hand-wound Spring Drive movements have generally been found, in recent years, only in very high end Credor models like the Sonnerie, Minute Repeater, and Eichi I and II models. That the 9R02 offers the same immaculate hand-finishing which until now, could be found in a hand-wound Spring Drive movement only in the 8-Day Grand Seiko and Credor models, opens up the potential to use this and other high-end Spring Drive movements more widely at the top of the Grand Seiko collection as well. And, for most Grand Seiko clients, the really exciting development is caliber 9R31. A sub-$10,000 hand-wound Grand Seiko Spring Drive has been on my personal wish list for many, many years; the new model is a limited edition of 700 pieces but I can think of literally dozens of things, without breaking a sweat, that I'd love to see Grand Seiko do around this one.
The Basics
Brand: Grand Seiko Model: 20th Anniversary Of Spring Drive Reference Numbers: SBGZ001 (platinum, hand-decorated case), SBGZ003 (platinum case), SBGY002 (18k yellow gold case) SBGY003 (steel case)
Dimensions: 38.5mm x 9.8mm (platinum models) 38.5mm x 10.2mm (gold and steel models) Case Material: Platinum, 18k yellow gold, or stainless steel Dial Color: Silver or silver "snowflake" (platinum), white "snowflake" (18k gold), or sunray pattern (steel) Indexes: 14k white gold (platinum models), 18k yellow gold (gold model), applied steel (steel model) Lume: None Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Crocodile strapwith folding clasp in matching metal, all four models
Caliber 9R02, on the bench at the Micro Artist Studio.
The Movements
Calibers: Spring Drive calibers 9R02 and 9R31 Functions: time, power reserve on the movement bridge Power Reserve: 84 hours (9R02) or 72 hours (9R31) Winding: Manual Frequency: Glide wheel rotating eight times per second Jewels: 9R02, 39 jewels; 9R31, 30 jewels (due to absence of Torque Return System in 9R31) Additional Details: Internally controlled to ± 1 second per day
This is something to quicken the pulses of Seiko dive watch enthusiasts: a modern version of the famous 6105, also known as the "Willard," as that was the model worn by Martin Sheen in his portrayal of Captain Willard in Apocalypse Now. The original 6105 came in two versions – one was the standard cushion cased 8000/8009, and the other was the larger 8110/8119. The later is the model worn by Sheen in the film, and it's a classic of dive watch design of the era – big, with an eye-catching asymmetrical case that features substantial crown guards and the crown at 4:00, with 150 meter water resistance. As with other dive watches of the era, the problem is not so much finding one as it is finding one in good condition; they were affordable and reliable, and were bought to be used. Used they were, under sometimes very harsh conditions (the 6105 was produced from 1968 to 1977) and this new model offers a chance to enjoy the broad-shouldered appeal of the original, with up-to-date materials and a modern movement.
The movement is the caliber 8L35, with a 50 hour power reserve, and water resistance is now 200 meters. SLA033 features a Zaratsu-polished bezel (Zaratsu polishing is the hand-polishing technique used for Grand Seiko cases, in general) and it's being offered as a limited edition of 2,500 pieces, at a slightly-higher-than-1968 price of $4,250.
Initial Thoughts
This is the latest in a line of limited edition dive watches from Seiko which are based on historic models, but updated with modern 8L series movements. In 2017, we had the Prospex Diver SLA017, which is a new take on the 6217 and which uses caliber 8L35; this was followed in 2018 by the SLA025, which is also based on a model from the 1960s and which uses caliber 8L55. Both are higher-end takes on the originals and are priced accordingly, at just over $4,000 and $5400 respectively. SLA033 also has a double-curved sapphire crystal with AR coating, and, says Seiko, a "super-hard coating" on the 45mm stainless steel case. The watch is also hand-assembled in the Seiko Shizukuishi Watch Studio, where mechanical Grand Seiko and Credor watches are made.
The new SLA033 looks like a fantastic dive watch in many respects and gives up nothing to the original in terms of aesthetics, however I'll admit to some sticker shock every time Seiko comes out with a higher-end version of one of their classic divers. That said, the two predecessors to SLA033 struck me in person as very handsome watches and, given the higher quality construction and the use of much higher quality movements than the originals, the cost is justifiable. I think we may be forgiven for wishing these three watches had been more affordable, but the intention in all three cases was not to do a re-issue of the originals, but to use their design as a foundation for something better qualitatively. The previous two models were very successful and given the fact that SLA033 comes straight from the same playbook, it seems very likely it will be just as avidly sought as its predecessors.
The NOMOS Club Sport, on paper, flies in the face of what NOMOS is all about. It’s rather large at 42mm, it’s water-resistant to 300 meters, and there’s a lot of Superluminova on the deep black dial. It also comes on a what looks to be reminiscent of old stretch bracelets. In other words, this is a NOMOS that’s designed to be knocked around.
As a design exercise, this watch proves that a dive watch does not have to be a massive hunk of metal. The Club Sport does still adhere to the clean aesthetic that put NOMOS on the map. The neomatik caliber used is already incredibly slim, and somehow they’ve managed to design a case around the movement that’s spec’d to the same standards as all the beefy divers you’re used to at 300 meters.
Initial Thoughts
NOMOS is always a great choice for the design-minded, but when it comes to tool watches NOMOS is certainly entering untrodden territory. At the very core of the brand is a mastery of manufacturing and execution. NOMOS has historically nailed aesthetics and quality every single time – and I don’t expect the Club Sport is any different. The general characteristics that NOMOS represents are a great starting point to design anything, so why would a diver be any different?
To reach 300 meters of water resistance in a watch this thin the engineering and design process has to be intentional. Functions like a red crown tube that shows when the crown isn't fully screwed in highlight this sense of intention. The lume plots look generous as well, meaning visibility was put high on the priority list. The bracelet is hand assembled from 145 pieces and manages to round out the sportiness while still keeping in line with the refined NOMOS aesthetic.
The Basics
Brand: NOMOS Glashütte Model: Club Sport Neomatik Reference Number: 781
Diameter: 42mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Black Indexes: Arabic numerals, batons Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and numerals Water Resistance: 300m Strap/Bracelet: NOMOS-designed and manufactured bracelet
The 1950s and '60s were a time of wild experimentation by the U.S. Navy – and that’s only counting the declassified projects we actually know about. Take the Convair Sea Dart for example, a supersonic fighter prototype that took off from hydrofoils. The plane acted almost like a boat, with its wings touching the water during taxi until it built up enough speed to lift out of the water. It was engineered as a way around having to launch supersonic fighter from battleships. After a prototype disintegrated during testing and killed the test pilot, the program was cancelled. When it came to watches, the same sort of experimentation was happening. For real.
The new Tudor Black Bay P01 is born from a '60s prototype that was designed with a very unusual locking bezel mechanism at its core. In the 1960s, the tolerances on watches weren't what they are today. Back then, the mechanism that allows bezels to ratchet generally wasn’t as sturdy and well-engineered. A bezel getting knocked out of place could actually cause a problem as far as timing is concerned, and when it comes to Naval equipment, it could potentially mean a real problem.
The "Commando" program, as Tudor code-named it, was initially created as an R&D effort to mitigate any sort of opportunity for the bezel to be accidentally knocked out of place. The research culminated in a design for which Rolex filed a patent in 1968. They settled on a mechanism that sat between the lugs and used tension to clamp down on the bezel in resting position, essentially locking it in place until the "hood" was manually disengaged and the bi-directional bezel was able to turn freely. Like the Convair Sea Dart, the program was scrapped for one reason or another. Presumably it was just too complicated an answer to a problem that demanded a simple solution. But it's all part of the development curve – grist to the mill as they say.
The Navy eventually developed reliable catapult technology that helped successfully launch supersonic fighters from carriers, and Tudor finally engineered out the flaws that made bezels sloppy. Have you operated the Black Bay's bezel? It's magnificent.
Sometimes it takes some experimenting to eventually settle on a refined and reliable design. That was certainly the case with the prototype Tudor, and at least it only came at the expense of beauty. Keep in mind the watch was made for the Navy – the U.S. military doesn’t really care what something looks like as long as it works. We know there was certainly a need for a locking bezel; don't forget that Omega even had its own take on locking bezels with the mechanism used in the Ploprof. The Squale Tiger used a similar set up as well. The only difference is the aforementioned watches actually made it into production. It takes a special kind of collector to tell you the Ploprof is beautiful (I’m one of them), but Omega has seemed to have decent success with the modern Ploprof reissue, so what's stopping folks from appreciating this oddball Tudor?
Like many things from the '60s, there are plenty of folks who think this watch should have stayed tucked away in the annals of Tudor history – that perhaps it was a misguided move for Tudor to produce something so controversial. What if this watch hadn't been championed as the largest release from Tudor at Baselworld, and instead they quietly released it without any fanfare? I think the timing has a lot to do with the general response. It's hard to take a watch that was made for a very select audience and hang your whole brand on it at the largest fair in the industry. But there are only so many colors or materials the Black Bay can come in. This watch isn't going to dilute the Tudor name in any way, and if anything it strengthens the core identity of Tudor as a brand that's historically supplied the military with steadfast divers. Just listen to Mr. Moki Martin.
Now that we’ve established the context behind this watch and why it's not necessarily supposed to be beautiful, let's talk about how it looks and feels.
The dimensions of the Black Bay P01 immediately shout "'60s." I'd say that it also screams "prototype," but doesn't every watch start out as a prototype at some point? I think it has a similar horizontal case profile – sans crystal – as the Rolex Deep Sea Special Prototype. The Black Bay P01 is taller than it looks in pictures. Tudor had an original "commando" prototype from the '60s on display at their booth as well. It can be seen as a subtle move by Tudor to quell all the controversy about whether or not the watch actually existed. But since both were in the same place at the same time, I can confirm that the Black Bay version's case design is very true to the original.
At 12 o'clock you’ll find the "claw" mechanism that locks the bezel in place. It opens with a flip similar to the action of a fliplock on a high-end clasp. To open it, you apply pressure on the outer edge of the claw until it snaps open. Once it's open, it rests until you snap it back down again. Even though the six o'clock "claw" looks identical to the one at 12 o'clock, it isn't functional. One active claw is all it takes to secure the bezel. I think the second one might be there for visual consistency. I'm not sure how it works on the prototype, but it seems like it may be a good redundancy practice to make both claws operational in case one fails.
Despite the presence of the locking lug mechanism, there was enough articulation in the lug extensions to wrap around my wrist and trim the large 42mm case down to something that certainly feels tall, but width-wise it doesn't wear like a hockey puck. The lug width is 20mm, so there are a bevy of options when it comes to strap choices. I personally would like to see it on some mesh, as I think it's super comfortable and nails the '60s look well. A beefy NATO, just a tad thicker than the fabric it comes on, might even do the trick.
It's entirely different from wearing a normal Black Bay. You can wear a normal Rolex Sub akin to the Black Bay, or you can wear the Deep Sea Special Prototype. This is closer to the latter. It's not a difficult watch to wear, but let's be honest, nothing I'm doing necessitates a locked and secure bezel. It's a novelty, and ironically I'd probably play with the bezel even more now that there's another step involved in operating it.
I've covered how the bezel has come a long way since the '60s, but more importantly, movements have come even further. And the P01 runs the MT5612, which, in one iteration or another, is present in the Black Bay range and has proven reliable. With a watch like this, there's no reason to put a movement in that's anything other than simple and reliable. That's the original design philosophy, anyway.
Is the Black Bay P01 visually polarizing? Totally. But overall the Black Bay line is so well established and Tudor gave us enough real crowd-pleasers last year that it doesn't matter if they come out with something that isn't an instant hit. In my opinion, Tudor has earned the leave and liberty to take some time to experiment. That's exactly what they were doing in the late '60s, experimenting. We're always asking for smaller cases and true-to-spec vintage executions, but Tudor is giving us something even harder to come by: an accurate reproduction of a '60s philosophy. I have a suspicion that Tudor isn't banking on this one being a commercial success; it's just an experiment, like it always has been.
The Tudor Black Bay P01 is priced at $3,950 and will be available in July. For more, visit Tudor online.
If you are tired of hearing me drone on and on and on about the Rolex RBOW, well too bad. I'm still in love with it and am happy to report that the trend is not going anywhere. At SIHH I saw many rainbow-themed watches roll out from Audemars Piguet, Parmigiani, and Richard Mille (if you count the Marshmallow as "rainbow-esque"), and Baselworld is proving to be no different. Rolex is back with a new rainbow this year, and it's a Day-Date no less! It's like they took all my favorite things and wrapped them into one neat little multi-colored package. Day-Date, check. Diamonds, check. Rainbow, check check. If this isn't a double rainbow, I don't know what is.
The Rainbow Day-Date 36 is available in white gold (seen here), as well as rose and yellow gold. Pricing is $124,250 for the version you see here. You can visit Rolex online for more.
One of the best things about Baselworld is the rush of receiving the press releases and then finally getting to see the watches in the metal (sometimes just moments later). Press images often don't do a watch justice and the 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar is a perfect example. It is no secret that steel watches are very popular right now, whether it's the 5711, no-date Sub, or Pepsi GMT, people loooove steel watches. So today we are going to take a closer look at the 5212 in steel, which presents a totally new complication in a totally new case with a totally new (and unusual) dial.
The 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar.
Jack covered the specs of the 5212A pretty well here, but to reiterate, this watch is a weekly calendar watch. Basically this is a simple calendar movement that accounts for the day, month, and the week according to the ISA 8610 standard. This means the the first official week of the year starts on the Monday of the week of January 4. From there, the date is indicated in the date window at three o'clock, the day is indicated by the short hand with flat red end, and the week and month are indicated by a similar but longer hand around the outer edge of the dial. It is reminiscent of the traditional triple calendars of the past, but with a slightly different focus.
The new complication tells the date, time, day, month, and week.
The stainless steel Calatrava case measures 40mm in diameter.
The new complication is built on the caliber 324 movement.
The movement is not entirely new (though it might be marketed that way), but is rather based on the classic caliber 324. It does, however, have some major technological advancements including improvements to the fourth wheel that drives the center seconds and the "kick-start" mechanism that helps push the center seconds forward after pulling out the crown. This is a seemingly minor adjustment that makes a difference in accuracy and the nuisances of a lagging seconds hand. It also just goes to show that Patek still takes watchmaking seriously, even at the most minute level – but we already knew that.
The typography is hand-drawn and very avant-garde for such a traditional company.
The case measures 40mm in diameter and is 10.79mm thick, but what is really getting people talking is the fact that it's steel. Patek hasn't made a steel Calatrava since the limited edition Pilot's Calatrava 5522A in 2017 and then before that in the 1970s with the references 96 and 570 (there was also the 565, which was discontinued in the late 1960s, but that's another story entirely). This case is also unusual because of the two-step lugs which further throw back to the bygone era of vintage steel watches.
For me though, the most interesting part of this watch is the unusual typography which looks to be handwritten, because it was in fact handwritten. For such a traditional company, it is highly unusual to use such a whimsical text. The original plan for the dial was a more formalized font but Thierry Stern was inspired by the way it looked in free-form so they went with it. It is said to have reminded him of a school calendar. I think it further solidifies this watch as a vintage throwback and makes the watch more youthful and fun. And with a lot of the aspirational young Patek buyers wanting nearly impossible to get Nautilus or Aquanaut references, the 5212A is a good alternative for those who are desperate for a not-too-stuffy Patek Philippe watch.
The 5212A retails for $33,454.
On the wrist, this watch fits very comfortably. The 40mm case doesn't wear too big and feels good overall. The calfskin strap, albeit a small detail, makes a huge difference in comparison to the crocodile straps that Pateks usual come on. But ultimately, I find the complete lack of necessity the most charming thing about this watch. It's $33,454, which is objectively not cheap for a simple calendar watch. To put things in perspective, the Lange 1815 Annual Calendar hovers around $30k, but the Nautilus costs $35k, so you could technically look at the 5212A as a deal within the Patek Philippe line.
You can read more about the Patek Philippe Ref. 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar here and visit Patek online here.
The more watches you see in your life, the harder it becomes to be thoroughly impressed by something. So when you see something truly remarkable in the metal, it’s pretty wild. Yesterday we announced the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph ever. After seeing it in person I can certainly say, that this thing is THIN. Not Piaget concept watch thin, but pretty stinking thin (6.9mm to be exact). But the incredibly thing is holding it your hand and working the chronograph and GMT function. Both sets of buttons have that incredibly satisfying “click” and are easy to use. The OFCGMTA also feels very durable which is reassuring if you plan on wearing this watch often. The OFCGMTA is $17,000 and you can read more about it here.
The chronograph and GMT complications fit together seamlessly.
6.9mm of thin, baby.
The Octo Finissimo GMT Chronograph Automatic is the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph.
The chronograph buttons are very satisfying to push.
The caliber BVL 318 with rotor along the perimeter of the movement.
The integrated bracelet and case are both sandblasted titanium.
Looking sharp!
For a watch this slim, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic makes a big first impression.
The 5172G is a new evolution of the 5170 and offers an interesting and everyday-friendly mix of casual and dressy Patek styling. Shown with a matte dark blue dial and a matching leather strap, this old-school-yet-sporty chronograph replaces the longstanding 5170 with a larger case but retains the lovely CH 29-533 PS movement within. Details like the triple-stepped lugs, syringe hands, and ref. 1463-inspired pushers balance nicely with more modern elements like the luminous Arabic numerals and clean lines, and the overall dial and hand design is inspired by a unique version of the 1463 that was made for Briggs Cunningham (how cool is that?). If you want all of the details and specs, click here, if you want to see the new 5172G in the metal, just scroll down.
What we have here is a very accurate re-edition of a Breitling Navitimer from 1959. This isn't just a watch with vintage cues or a design that was inspired by something from the past – it's pretty close to a carbon copy. The design of the classic Navitimer is bound to be familiar to many of the people reading this site. It's iconic among pilot's watches for its design, which combines a chronograph with a rotating slide rule bezel, a scale that can be used by pilots to manually compute various useful calculations for things like fuel consumption and and air spreed.
Details that can be traced to the original include the plexiglass crystal and continue right down to the number of beads found on the watch's beaded bezel. (I'll save you the trouble of counting, it's 94.) The precise number of these beads, which are there for easy gripping of the bezel and operation of the slide rule, varied considerably from reference to reference and from year to year, with as many as 125 in the 1950s and as few as 93 in 1960.
The new movement Breitling has drawn on to power the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition is the caliber B09, a hand wound COSC-rated chronograph. Since this is a re-edition of a watch that predates the advent of the automatic chronograph, a hand-wound in-house movement like this one seems like a logical choice, and indeed this is a caliber that Breitling has made specifically to power the historically influenced re-edition.
Initial Thoughts
It bears repeating that this new watch is practically a facsimile of the original from 1959. In fact, Breitling says that the only concessions to modernity that the current watch makes are its increased water resistance (to 30 meters) and the use of Superluminova in lieu of radium. The back of the watch is even closed, a period-correct connection to vintage watches that most companies can't resist breaking in the course of making vintage homages.
I've long loved the Navitimer. The dial, while undeniably busy, draws me in each time I encounter it, and I find myself wondering why I don't own one. This is a great-looking modern take on a classic vintage watch, and I have no doubt that Breitling will easily find homes for the 1,959 examples of the Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition that they are making. There's really nothing to complain about with regard to this watch, aside perhaps from the fact that it is essentially a reproduction of a product that already exists – but that's also the reason so many people are going to love it.
Patek Philippe is known for many things – insane complications, melodious minute repeaters, the Nautilus, and world timers chief among them. The world time is kind of what watch dreams are made of. The cloisonné enamel dials, convenient world time function, and old-world glamour all make for an incredibly aspirational timepiece. Patek has been in the business of making world timers since the 1940s with the reference 1415. They have continued to produce them over the decades and the last example they made was launched during the Grand Exhibition in New York City in the summer of 2017.
This year they have a completely new version, the ref. 5231J, which has both a new case and signature. The previous reference 5131 will stay in production (for now), but only with the bracelet. The 5231J comes in yellow gold and has a larger flat bezel along with faceted lugs that are reminiscent of the 2523. It measures 38.5mm across and 10.23mm thick. The dial itself is made in cloisonné enamel and depicts Europe, Africa, the Americas, and four gold “spangles,” aka dots, at the quarter hour marks. Overall, this is a really beautiful execution of a classic.
Initial Thoughts
Nobody makes a world time watch like Patek Philippe. The early examples are some of the most charming timepieces ever produced and I always get excited about seeing them come up for auction. The previous iteration of this world timer, the ref. 5131, is 39.5mm in diameter and has a much thinner bezel with Patek Philippe engraved on the case at 12. This isn’t the most elegant detail in my opinion, so I am glad to see that Patek moved it to the dial. As I mentioned earlier, the new case is very similar to that of the 2523, which came out in 1953. It was a beautifully designed case and had faceted lugs with crazy angles and was just a really gorgeous thing. The same attention was given to the new case of the 5231J and it’s exciting to see Patek continue to harken back to the good old days. The price is CHF 65,000, which is on par with what you would expect from Patek, especially for something this ornate. For comparison, the 5131P with bracelet costs CHF 115,000.
The Basics
Brand: Patek Philippe Model: World Time Reference Number: 5231J
Diameter: 38.5mm Thickness: 10.23mm Case Material: Yellow gold Dial Color:Cloisonné Enamel Indexes: Applied gold dots at 3, 6, 9, and 12 Lume: None Water Resistance: N/A Strap/Bracelet: Alligator strap
The Movement
Caliber: 240 HU Functions: Hours, minutes, day/night indication, and 24-hour world time Diameter: 27.5mm Thickness: 3.88mm Power Reserve: 48 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph) Jewels: 33 Additional Details: Patek Philippe Seal
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 65,000 Availability: TBD Limited Edition: No
