At HODINKEE, we love a good travel accessory, so we teamed up with Discommon to bring you a special carrying case for everything you'll need on the go. The Discommon for HODINKEE Watch Wallet is designed to allow you to carry your watches, passport, and more in one practical and protective case. The lovely pebbled navy Italian calfskin exterior is exclusive to the Discommon for HODINKEE Wallet. The inner lining features a grey tweed fabric, and both the exterior and interior are complemented by subtle orange stitching throughout.

The outer rim of the case on either side of the zipper is multi-layer edge painted for a clean and durable finish. Plus, the entire wallet is further lined with D3O® foam; this material is used in top impact protection systems for activities like skiing and mountain biking. D3O® stiffens and absorbs energy on impact, offering superior protection for watches and any other valuables stored in the wallet, not to mention peace of mind.

Inside, the wallet features four elastic pockets in varying sizes on the left, plus leather straps that can be fastened to hold watches in place. The right side features two elastic pockets to store your passport, ticket, and anything else you might want to carry. You’ll also find a card telling you a little more about the D3O® foam. The Discommon for HODINKEE Watch Wallet comes packed in a microfiber drawstring bag.

The Discommon for HODINKEE Watch Wallet is now available in the HODINKEE Shop.

Sometimes you find things out in the most interesting ways. A little while back, that stalwart of correctness in all matters orthographic, Mr. Stephen J. Pulvirent, asked me, in the context of a story in layout for the next issue of the HODINKEE Magazine – yes, it's coming – about the symbol for "ligne," as seen for instance on Patek Philippe's website in the description of the caliber 17‴ LEP PS pocket watch movement (shown above). The question was regarding the three marks indicating that a measurement is in lignes; was this, he wanted to know, one apostrophe and a double quotation mark, or three apostrophes, or something else entirely? 

I'd always assumed it was three apostrophes, but as it turns out, this is not the case – the symbol is actually something called a "triple prime," which in Unicode is 2034. All these years I'd been using three apostrophes – for instance, I'd normally type 13''' for a 13 ligne movement, but this is in fact wrong. Wrong, wrong, wrong.

The ligne, by the way, is one of those units of measurement that has survived from the pre-metric system days as a vestige of a French measurement system which goes all the way back to the Carolingian system, introduced by Charlemagne. The first of the Holy Roman Emperors established the system in 790 AD, and the basis of the length measurement system was the so-called toise de l'Écritoire, or the distance between the fingertips of a man's outstretched arms (one assumes the man in question was Charlemagne; if man is to be the measure of all things, best to pick the man in charge).

It is probably the nature of any medieval system of measurement to be kind of all over the place, but at least the definition of the ligne seems to have been fairly clear from the outset – a ligne is 1/12 of a pouce, or old French inch, of which there were 12 to a foot – in this case, the pied du roi, so no prizes for guessing whose foot. The entire system went out the proverbial window during the French Revolution, and to be fair, there is little to mourn in terms of precision – one estimate is that there were some 800 different units of measurement in use by that time, with possibly as many as a quarter of a million different definitions for them. Things were a bit of a mess. The metric system was finally adopted in 1795, and today nobody bothers with the pouce or the pied du roi, but the ligne – defined today as exactly 2.2558291mm – lives on in exactly three professions: ribbon-making, button-making, and watchmaking.

The prime mark, on the other hand, is very widely used to represent, well, a hell of a lot of things other than the ligne. It can be found in mathematics and the sciences, as well as musical notation, although I think my favorite use of the prime mark is in symbolic notation for the manipulation of the Rubik's Cube. Unlike la belle relique de l'ancien régime that is the ligne, it's fairly modern. It seems to have originated in mathematics in the early 20th century, and referring to it as a "prime mark" seems to have begun sometime in the 1960s. 

In any case, we're super excited to go back through every HODINKEE article since 2008 and manually correct ''' to ‴ (interns need to have to have something to do) and we hope you'll be thrilled to see us avoiding yet another orthographic pitfall. Never let it be said that writing about watches lacks white-knuckle excitement.

While the last decade and a half have seen a slow and inexorable upward creep of the cost of luxury watches, there have also been, more recently, some rather disruptive pricing strategies as well. Montblanc, for instance, introduced a steel perpetual calendar in 2014 which is just $12,800 (of course "just" is relative, thirteen grand is indisputably a lot of simoleons for us working stiffs, but you know, still). This year, Longines fielded an annual calendar for under $3,000. And in 2016, TAG Heuer introduced the Carrera Heuer 02T – a tourbillon chronograph priced at $15,950, about which Patek Philippe's Thierry Stern said, very bluntly, "(it's) nearly a joke to me...if they're willing to try to kill the quality of the Swiss product, I think they're on a very good track."

As much as it might have aroused ire in some quarters, however, the race to bring in traditionally very expensive complications at lower and lower prices does make an interesting point, which is that given sufficient economies of scale, and with modern manufacturing techniques, it is possible to produce working, reliable versions of traditionally extremely expensive complications at surprisingly – even shockingly – low prices. You give up things like time-consuming hand finishing, of course, and you have lower expectations in terms of things like case complexity and dial quality, but at the current prices for a well-finished perpetual (for example) from one of the Big Three (or Four, if you want Lange in as well) this alternative approach means an awful lot of people can get into high complications today, who couldn't have five years ago. 

In any event, the Tourbillon Chronograph 02T seems to be here to stay (although the price has oonched up to $17,000, I notice; still a Low! Low! Price! by the standards of modern quote fine watchmaking unquote). As a way of sweetening the pot, this year TAG Heuer has released a new version of the watch, which is a certified chronometer. And it's not just any ole' run of the mill COSC cert; instead, the watches will be certified by the observatory at Besançon, France – not far from the northern border of the Swiss Jura. 

Besançon at one time had a thriving watch industry which, at its peak, employed over 20,000 workers; now only about 1,500 people work in the watch industry there, which collapsed thanks to the Quartz Crisis – most markedly with the closing of Lip, in 1975. The observatory there was, like the observatories at Kew in England, and Geneva, engaged in the certification of chronometers and it still occasionally does so today. The specific mark of certification by the Besançon observatory was, and still is, the so-called Tête de Vipère – the Viper's Head. Besançon certified its first chronometer – a marine chronometer – in 1897, but got out of the business in the 1970s; in 2006, however, it began accepting watches for certification again, and since then about 500 watches have received its approval as chronometers.

If you weren't a fan of the original design in 2016 – however much you may be wowed by the price – the Tête de Vipère is not likely to change your mind; an open dial, ceramic bezel-and-case sports chronograph with tourbillon (and of course, a somewhat inside-baseball chronometer certification) doth not scream Everyman watchmaking from the rooftops. 

I am bound to say, however, that in-the-ceramic, I was pretty impressed with the execution – the case is razor sharp and the dial, though the design may raise your hackles, is clean as a whistle. It looks pretty jazzy on the wrist, too; not the kind of watch towards which I'd normally gravitate but as with another of TAG Heuer's releases this year – the much-argued-over Bamford Monaco – I surprised myself by liking the cut of its jib much more than I'd have thought possible, and I do think the Besançon association is kinda neat. The testing procedures sound more or less identical to COSC; 16 days at Besançon and 15 at COSC (a chronometer is a chronometer is a chronometer) but why not have a little terroir avec votre chronomètre, n'est-ce pas?

As we noted in our Introducing post, this is a limited edition of 155 pieces and the price is $20,400, which, everything else aside, is still a great deal for this combination of features and complications. And of course, you can have a closer look at it at at TAGHeuer.com.

On Tuesday night we braved the chilly spring weather to celebrate the new season at Todd Snyder's Madison Square Park boutique. We had an overwhelming response from all of you, with the line to get in wrapping around the corner and the party bumping inside. On display we had a robust selection of our vintage watches from the HODINKEE Shop along with a mix of our accessories, Todd Snyder apparel, Moscot glasses, and plenty of scotch to drink. We want to thank Todd Snyder for hosting and all of those who could join us. But, if you couldn't make it, fear not! Our vintage watches and accessories are always for sale at Todd Snyder on Madison Square Park, so be sure to check them out if you are in New York City. 

Here is a selection of photos from the night. Enjoy!

Great vintage watch homages have come to be one of the expected highlights of my trip to the Longines booth at Baselworld each year, and 2018 was not a disappointment in this regard. In addition to the wonderful Longines Heritage Military Watch with its faux-patinated dial, and new ladies’ sizing (and dials) for the Heritage Legend Diver, we were also treated to the great-looking Heritage Skin Diver. And it's that last watch we’re going hands-on with today.

I was shown this watch during a meeting with Longines executives and told that it would not officially launch with the first wave of 2018 products. It would become available in late 2018, they said. As you can see, it's a really great-looking tribute to a historically important Longines, the Longines Nautilus Skin Diver – the first dive watch from Longines, in fact. It's a watch that I'd personally like to spend some more time with in the future outside of the less than ideal context of a trade show booth. 

It seems pretty obvious, but one of aspect of this watch’s design that should not be overlooked is its size. This is a large timepiece, and it feels large on the wrist. This is, in and of itself, not a bad thing. Wrist presence is a quality one tends to expect and even want from tool watches in general. But, on trying it on in Basel, the Skin Diver felt large for its 42mm diameter and 13.75mm height. I chalk this up to the way the lugs extend a good distance from the case, causing it to float somewhat uneasily on my seven-inch wrist. (The lug-to-lug length is 52.55mm.) I think that this design would have benefitted from a smaller diameter. An incremental reduction to 40mm diameter would have been great. (Incidentally, 40mm was the size of the original Nautilus Skin Diver.)

On the back, you'll see an embossed image of a diver with a spear with the words "The Longines Skin Diver Watch." The unidirectional bezel is very easy to turn thanks to the deep crenelations along its edge. This bezel is made of PVD-coated steel that has been executed to recall the original plastic one found on the late '50s original.

The Skin Diver's water resistance is an estimable 300 meters, thanks in part to a crown that screws down. Ever since I heard dive watch expert and HODINKEE contributor Jason Heaton observe that a screw-down crown really is one of the most important features for a dive watch, it's been something I've kept in the back of my mind when evaluating purpose-built timepieces for diving. Sure, with proper gaskets and tolerances, the screw down function isn't necessary for water resistance per se, but it certainly cannot hurt. After all, if the crown is screwed in, there's zero chance of it catching on the fabric of your wet suit or other gear and flooding the case. Even if the vast majority of consumers will stop short of testing the limits of this watch's max depth rating, there is a comfort in knowing that a watch exceeds the ISO standard for diving.

The Skin Diver’s dial is one place where it really excels. Look at the pillowy lume plots for the cardinal hours  and hour markers. It conveys all the richness of a well kept vintage watch from the late-'50s to early '60s. A similarly thick application of faux-aged lume fills the arrow-shaped hour and minute hands, which traverse a dial that has a course, anti-reflective property to it. This is one of the darker applications of faux-aged lume that I have seen on a model that nods to a brand's heritage, Longines or otherwise. The Longines logo is at 12 o’clock, and the world “Automatic” is spelled out in script text at the six o’clock position.

The movement inside is the L888. From this movement, the Skin Diver derives displays for the hours, for the minutes, and for the seconds, with an impressive power reserve of 65 hours. The movement runs at the somewhat unusual rate of 25,200 vph (or 3.5 Hz).

And then there are the three strap and bracelet options: a plain brown leather strap, a black tropic rubber strap, and a mesh steel bracelet. And while each has its own appeal, I think that two of them (the tropic strap and the bracelet) are the winners, with the nice mesh bracelet option taking the slight edge when you consider that each option will set you back the same amount of money, $2,600.

Overall, the Longines Heritage Skin Diver is a great-looking contemporary dive watch with more than ample water resistance that revives an important design from from the Longines archives. It manages to do this while incorporating enough modern features to excite watch collectors and SCUBA enthusiasts of today. 

For more, visit Longines online.

Each week our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.

Enjoy.

Robot Conquers One of the Hardest Human Tasks: Assembling Ikea Furniture – The New York Times

The robots are indeed coming, but this is one job I doubt many people will mind losing to them. Scientists in Singapore have created a robot that will assemble furniture from Ikea. Drawing on a list of disparate skills, the robot assembled a $25 solid pine Stefan chair – after being fed an assembly manual of sorts, of course.

– Jon Bues, Senior Editor

The Cultural And Political Forces Behind Kendrick Lamar's Pulitzer – The New Yorker

The classical music world was shaken on Monday when it was announced that the Pulitzer Prize for Music had been awarded to Kendrick Lamar for his album Damn (previously only given to classical or jazz musicians). This win validates Lamar's skill as a deft wordsmith, a political gadfly, an alchemist of sonics, and now an award-winning disruptor.

– David Aujero, Associate Producer

The Boat At The Bottom Of The Sea – Seattle Met

When the crab boat Destination disappeared in the Bering Sea last February, no one would have guessed that it would take five months to locate the vessel on the ocean floor. Now, more than a year after the Seattle-based boat and her crew were lost , an investigation continues to look for answers. This fascinating long read captures the gritty reality of this investigation and its attempt to understand what went wrong.

– James Stacey, Contributor

"The Future Is Here": A Design Conversation With Kanye West – The Hollywood Reporter

This conversation between Kanye West and designer Axel Vervoordt is a compelling, unusual read. The two cover everything from philosophy to pop culture to the conflict between fashion and time, and you can tell that both are thinking about these things 100% of the time. Also, if you're not keeping up on Kanye's tweets, you're doing it wrong.

– Stephen Pulvirent, Managing Editor

1911: A Trip Through New York City – YouTube

In 1911, a Swedish film company traveled to New York to document the city during a period of rapid social change. The remarkably clear footage was released last year by the MOMA and it paints a vivid portrait of early-20th century Manhattan. "Produced only three years before the outbreak of World War I, the everyday life of the city recorded here — street traffic, people going about their business — has a casual, almost pastoral quality," writes the museum.

– Greyson Korhonen, Associate Producer

Well, here we are, a few weeks after Baselworld, and I'm still hung up on one watch. Yep you guessed it – the Rainbow Daytona. I wish I could tell you why I love this watch so much, but it's pretty hard to put obsession into words. Let's face it, sometimes words just aren't enough. I'm embarrassed to admit it, but when I first saw the new Rainbow Daytona in Everose my hands began to shake, my palms started to sweat, and the prick of hot tears stung the back of my eyes. It was love at first sight. To say I was alone in my reaction is an understatement – I was given some serious side-eye by my colleagues, but I don't care. This watch is dope, and here's why.

The Rainbow Daytona was first released back in 2012 in both white and yellow gold. It was made in VERY limited quantities, hit cult status quickly and has almost tripled in value since then. This year Rolex surprised us all by dropping the Everose version, and it is spectacular in the metal. The watch is very similar to the two previous versions, but the case and bracelet are a new metal and there are different indexes at the hours, which, despite not seeming like a lot, has a huge impact.

The official name of this watch is not actually "Rainbow Daytona" – this is just what it has been so affectionately dubbed over the past six years. It is officially known as the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 116595RBOW, a precious metal chronograph with a sapphire- and diamond-set case. The Rainbow Daytona is made of Everose, Rolex's own alloy of pink gold (a perfect rosy hue), and it is paired with a black lacquer dial, Pink Gold Crystal sub-dials, 36 baguette-set sapphires in the bezel, 56 diamonds set into the lugs and case, and colored sapphire indexes. The watch itself is powered by the automatic caliber 4130 and is waterproof up to 100 meters/330 feet. So yes, if you want to go swimming with this watch, you can. I would not normally recommend such a thing, but I highly encourage it with this watch – can you imagine the sparkle underwater at the beach!? I can. 

The Everose gold really brings out the colors on the bezel. I think there is something about that pink hue that really amplifies everything, making the rainbow bezel more vibrant – which, let's get real, is really what this watch needed. The biggest change (to be fair there are only two) and the one that I am just completely obsessed with is the new set of hour indexes. I mean, have you seen them?! They are now colored sapphires that match the gradient of the bezel perfectly. The previous models featured diamond-set indexes (also set into a black lacquer dial). I think this change makes for a more coherent appearance, even though this watch is still pretty loud. And you know what they say – God is in the details. 

The best thing about this watch is that it is so Rolex. It's your standard Daytona, a traditional chronograph (a tool watch), decked out in perfectly matched, hand-cut, hand-set sapphires sourced from special suppliers. In case you weren't aware, Rolex has approximately 20 in-house gem-setters and they only use stones of IF (Internally Flawless) quality, meaning they have no inclusions, no flaws, no nothing. Basically, every stone and every setting is perfect because Rolex will settle for nothing less. 

But it's not what is new about this watch that makes it so special, but rather the overall impression of the watch itself. A lot of people have poopooed this watch for being gaudy, over-the-top, and tacky, but for me this watch is none of those things. Sure, it's loud, and if you asked me five years ago if I would wear this watch the answer would have been a hard "no," but something over the years changed, and I found myself obsessing over it. I have no idea why, my general tastes tend to be very traditional and classic, but something about the sheer unnecessary nature of this watch is what really gets me (that and the sparkle, duh). But for every part of me that loves this watch for purely aesthetic reasons, there are equal parts of me that are impressed by the manufacturing of this piece. 

On the wrist, this watch is every bit as magical as you could imagine. It wears like a Daytona (obviously) and looks like Liberace – and I couldn't love it more. I picture wearing it with jeans and a t-shirt in the summer time, sipping rosé on the beach somewhere fabulous. But everyone is allowed to have their own Rainbow Daytona fantasies, so have at it. 

As I said, this watch isn't for everyone. Hell, it's not for most people! But I love it for exactly what it is: unadulterated luxury. It's not about wearability, practicality, or functionality. This watch is about fun, and isn't that what watches should be all about? And before you go on to say I am obsessed with Rolex, I will tell you this – if Rolex is King, I am merely a humble subject. 

You can buy the Rainbow Daytona (if you can get your hands on one) for $96,900 without the diamond dial and bracelet (yes, that version exists too). You can read more about this watch at Rolex online. 

There are, in every domain of discourse, certain varieties of misinformation and confusion that smite them how you will, refuse to die. One of these hydra's heads in talking about watches is the notion of so-called dynamic vs. static water resistance with respect to watch water resistance ratings – it's been debunked so many times, both here and elsewhere, that you'd think we could safely regard it as a dead issue but it's proven frustratingly durable. Another snake that will not stay scotched is the idea that screw heads – specifically screw head slots – should be aligned; the reason it's not practical to do so in watchmaking is a question that has been repeatedly addressed, but it can't hurt to try again as I don't think we've ever raised the question here.

First of all the best known example of supposedly aligned screw slots is the bezel of the Royal Oak – and yes, it's true, the slots are parallel with the edge of the bezel, which looks very nice. However, they're not actually screws. The "screws" are actually bolts, with screwed-on nuts holding them down from the back – and, as you can see, those slots don't line up.

In fact, you don't see perfectly aligned screw heads in general, pretty much anywhere in watchmaking, and that includes both the humble and the mighty. Even those fanatics of finishing, Greubel Forsey, don't go to the trouble of aligning screw slots – either on the dial side, or in the movement.

So, why aren't aligned screw heads seen anywhere in watchmaking? The best answer I've run across is from a man who should know: Mr. Roger Smith, who addressed the question in an interview with Salon QP in April of 2016. I encourage everyone to read the whole article, but here's one relevant quote: "The screws are never aligned because it would be a very difficult engineering task to make sure that the start of each thread within the dial plate began in exactly the same orientation ... the length of the screw thread from the start of its thread to the underside of the screw-head would be critical and you would have to achieve ridiculously close tolerances."

Is it possible to machine a screw, tap the threads, and control the depth of the countersink so as to produce perfectly aligned slots? It is, and it's been done, but it is also apparently a royal PITA, to indulge in some colorful vernacular. In poking around trying to find out if it's ever been done, and how you do it, I ran across the discussion forum at the Practical Machinist, where several different techniques are mentioned. You do find aligned screws in manufactured objects occasionally – Parker-brand shotguns are one example – but the various methods are extremely labor-intensive. One post from the forum discussion is, "... the cost would be prohibitive now ... very few people would want to spend the extra," while another remarks, "Parker shotguns ... always had 'qualified,' or aligned, or 'timed' screws. I believe they did so not by special tapping but rather by carefully removing material from the underside of the screw until it was correctly positioned. As others have noted, this sort of craftsmanship is essentially gone from the world of production."

I have been unable thus far to determine if even in theory, it would be possible to machine screws and tap components with a high enough degree of precision to produce aligned screw slots without manual adjustment but even if it is, I suspect that as was mentioned at the Practical Machinist, the additional cost would be prohibitive and I shudder to think what the additional expenditure in time, and therefore additional cost to the consumer, would be. It's said that intolerance is the handmaiden of perfection, but it never hurts, when evaluating quality, to keep our expectations grounded in reality as well.

The name Keegan Allen might not ring a bell to many in our audience, but mention it to anyone under the age of 21, and be be prepared for a full-fledged meltdown. Keegan is an actor, and a well-known one at that – his hit show Pretty Little Liars ran for seven seasons, and was a runaway success. The series finale, for example, saw more than four million social media reactions, and over 1.4 million viewers. Keegan's personal instagram account itself has over six million followers. The young actor could easily be just another face in the crowd, but speak to him once and you know he's just different. He's artistic and sensitive, thoughtful and pensive, spiritual and emotional. He's a poet, and a working photographer. In fact, his latest book, Hollywood: Photos and Stories From Foreverland, hits shelves tomorrow.

On top of all that, he also happens to be one of the most passionate young watch collectors in Los Angeles. His watches range from the emotionally charged to the downright cool. And, what's more, he wears every single one of his watches, and wears them a lot – surfing, hiking, and swimming. In many ways, Keegan represents the new kind of watch collector – you won't see anything on a leather strap besides two watches that came from family members; this collection is all about function. 

Keegan Allen is, and I mean this sincerely, one of the most genuinely interesting and thoughtful people I've met while filming these episodes, and today I am thrilled to present the official HODINKEE Talking Watches with Keegan Allen.

Disney Mickey Mouse Watch

We knew a Mickey Mouse watch would end up on Talking Watches sooner or later. And that's because it is, quietly, one of the most ubiquitous and important watches in the world. This watch was given to Keegan at a young age by his uncle, who also wore a Mickey-themed wristwatch, to remind him to never take himself too seriously. 

TAG Heuer 2000

While Keegan's father's primary watch was a Rolex, he eventually traded it for a TAG Heuer 2000 Diver, the watch that you see here. The faded bezel and dial still have traces of their time together fly-fishing in the sun and each time he hears the jingle of the worn bracelet, he's reminded of his father.

Rolex Ref. 1680 Red Submariner

The Red Submariner, reference 1680, has always held a special place in Keegan's heart. It was a 1680 that his father wore for years, and it's also the same reference his long-time manager wears. Though his father traded his Submariner for a TAG later in life, Keegan always knew he would someday want to find a 1680 of his own and he wears this beautiful example often while surfing and swimming. He's religious about waterproofness, and has his watches checked constantly to ensure they can be worn just how they were intended to be – in the water.

Rolex GMT-Master 116719 BLRO In White Gold

Ever since the introduction of the GMT-Master 116719 BLRO in 2014, Keegan lusted after this white gold Rolex. It is one of those watches that's hard to understand unless you're a real collector, and that's what makes it so charming. Keegan is often on the road so the GMT function is helpful, and though it's white gold, you're still looking at a supremely functional Rolex sports watch.

Rolex GMT 1675 With Blueberry Bezel

When Keegan told me he was looking for a blueberry bezel 1675, I knew he was deep. And then when he told me just how far he went into researching the blueberry bezel GMT, I realized he was, like many of us, an actual addict. He went so far down the rabbit hole on what makes these bezels special, and what accepted scholarship says about them, that I don't think there is anyone more knowledgable on the topic on this planet. Also, as with his 1680, he's put a cyclops-less domed crystal on it to smooth out the look. When I think blueberry 1675, I think Keegan Allen.

Gevril Tribeca 'Paul Newman Daytona' Chronograph

The Gevril Tribeca! One of the ultimate curiosity pieces for a vintage Rolex collector and something that has become interesting in its own right. This watch, which is indeed an homage to the Rolex Paul Newman Panda Dial 6263, looks every bit the part, and its pushers even fit the case of a real 6263. And Keegan wears one, knowing exactly what it is and why it's fun – and why it's silly – and not caring at all. And that's how you know he's a real watch guy. 

Tiffany & Co. Dress Watch Belonging To His Father

The beautiful thing about watches and about Keegan's collection is that the silly is balanced by the sentimental. And like his father's TAG Heuer and the 1680 he purchased because his father had worn one, this gold-plated, black dial Tiffany & Co. wristwatch holds great emotional value to the actor. This watch was purchased by Keegan's mother decades ago and given to his father. His father did not wear it often, but he always kept it, and it always made its way to his wrist on special occasions. 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5164A

The travel time Aquanaut from Patek is another watch that I think of when Keegan comes to mind. Again, he's lived the last 10 years of his life on the road, and when he's home, he spends his time near the water. He's complex, but casual, and the 5164A just fits his lifestyle perfectly. It is his perfect watch.

Quick Take

MB&F first introduced the Aquapod back in January 2017, but it's still the most recent Horological Machine, and a quintessential design from the brand. Today we get a third iteration of the Aquapod, rendered in solid grade 5 titanium with bright green accents. This version is limited to 50 pieces and joins the titanium/blue (33 pieces) and red gold/black editions (66 pieces), bringing the total number of Aquapods to 149. In addition to having Super-LumiNova on both the numerals that show the time via the two concentric rotating discs, and the automatic winding rotor, the Aquapod Titanium Green has three panels of extremely bright AGT Ultra (Ambient Glow Technology)  around the flying tourbillon. With the lights out, this watch looks incredible. 

Initial Thoughts

When I first saw the Aquapod, I think I let out an audible "Whoa" in the MB&F booth at SIHH 2015. It's a totally crazy watch from top to bottom. First off, it's massive, but that ends up being one of the least lasting impressions the watch makes. Rather, what you notice is how it's built more like a building than a typical watch. There's incredible attention paid to the way the lugs articulate to make it sit comfortably on the wrist, the balance between the two sapphire domes, the space left between the bezel and the case, and the way the tourbillon seems to just float there up top. All of that is still true with this edition of HM7, but the bright green color scheme and lightweight construction make it feel like the most playful version of the three to date.

The Basics

Brand: MB&F
Model: Horological Machine No. 7 Aquapod Titanium Green

Diameter: 53.8mm
Thickness: 21.3mm
Case Material: Grade 5 Titanium
Dial Color: Black with green sapphire timing bezel
Indexes: Arabic numerals
Lume: Super-LumiNova on indicators and winding rotor; AGT Ultra panels around flying tourbillon
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber bracelet with titanium folding buckle

The Movement

Functions: Hours, minutes, 60-second flying tourbillon
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph)
Jewels: 35
Total Components: 303
Additional Details: Winding rotor is titanium with platinum weight at the edge; winding crown at left, setting crown at right

Pricing & Availability

Price: $108,000
Availability: Immediately
Limited Edition: 50 pieces

For more click here.

Looking for the perfect gift for the 2018 graduates in your life? We've got you covered with gift recommendations for every type of graduate.

For The High School Graduate

A Man And His Watch

Whether they already love watches or not, A Man and His Watch is a fantastic book to gift. In this volume, Matt Hranek tells the stories of men of varied backgrounds and with different horological interests, and the objects they put on their wrist each day. This book captures the essence of why so many of us collect: it's the stories we imbue our watches with that give them meaning well beyond the gears and pinions that keep them ticking.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is a great option for any level of collector, but especially for young collectors just getting into watches. For under $500, you get a 38mm steel watch with a hand-wound, Swiss-made movement. If they don’t already have the watch bug, this gift is sure to change that.

HODINKEE Alligator Watch Strap

Everyone needs a nice strap to dress their watch(es) up for special occasions. For a high school graduate who already has a watch, a high quality, genuine alligator strap is a great gift option, and ours come in several colors, finishes, and sizes to fit a wide variety of watches. Shop the full exotic collection here.

For The University Undergraduate

Chronographs For Collectors

This book focuses solely on watches with the chronograph complication, with two renowned experts reviewing thirty of their favorite wristwatch chronographs over the course of 200 pages. Regardless of their level of watch knowledge, this a great reference text for the recent college graduate in your life. 

NOMOS Glashütte Club Campus

Designed and priced with students and recent college graduates in mind, the Club Campus is a fantastic watch featuring an in-house movement for under $2,000. The dial features a “California” layout for the hours – a mix of Arabic and Roman numerals – that nicely blends dressy and casual styles. On top of this, NOMOS is able to offer free caseback engraving service with the purchase of the Club Campus, allowing you to further commemorate this milestone.

Loupe System For HODINKEE

Every watch enthusiast needs a good loupe, and we searched long and hard before we found the best one. The Loupe System for HODINKEE comes complete with an additional rubber eyepiece to increase the field of view, a microfiber carrying pouch, a microfiber cloth, and a woven nylon hard case; the entire kit is packed is packed in a hard plastic case that can be converted to carry or store watches. If you want to take this gift a step further, you can add the Loupe System Light Ring Accessory, which features several UV and LED light settings to examine watches and check lume.

For the Masters Graduate

Patek Philippe Steel Watches

John Goldberger’s Patek Philippe Steel Watches covers one of the most desirable and lauded categories of watches: vintage Patek Philippe in stainless steel. Over 400 pages, Goldberger examines the history and minutia of nearly 200 stainless steel watches alongside beautiful, high quality images. This granular look at some of the most rare versions of Patek Philippe references is sure to please any academic with a curious mind.

Grand Seiko SBGR309

This watch is a great mix of sporty and dressy, with a 42mm case and sturdy stainless steel bracelet. The clean black dial with silver indexes and date function make this a great watch to carry a recent graduate from interviews to more casual settings in style.

Oval Leather Travel Case

For the graduate with a small but growing collection, a structured Italian leather watch travel case is a perfect gift, especially if they are taking a holiday or traveling for further studies after graduation. The Oval Leather Travel Case comes in four different leathers and three sizes to carry one, two, or four watches.

For The Doctoral Graduate

Longines: Legendary Watches

John Goldberger’s latest horological book is a 600-page encyclopedia of Longines history, with over 200 individual watches featured via beautiful high res imagery and detailed overviews. This is undoubtedly the most significant text on this extremely important brand. Despite the level of detail, this text is a wonderful resource regardless of the reader’s preexisting Longines knowledge.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942

Inspired by the Vacheron Constantin reference 4240, a 35mm dress watch that was first released in 1942, the Histories Triple Calendrier 1942 is a modern triple calendar watch cased in stainless steel. In addition to making the watch more wearable, the stainless steel case allows for an exceedingly reasonable price below $20,000.

Master & Dynamic MW60 Wireless Over-Ear Headphones

Between travel, work, and exercise, headphones are extremely useful in day-to-day life. Remove the pesky cord in favor of a bluetooth connection and you have an amazingly convenient and attractive gadget you can easily use with any bluetooth-enabled device. Master & Dynamic headphones combine stainless steel components with exposed aluminum antenna that offer extended durability as well as style and quality sound.

More In The H Shop

If you're still searching for the perfect gift, check out a HODINKEE Shop gift card, or our wide selection of watches, straps, travel accessories, and more.

The start of Baselworld is as full of sound and fury as it's possible for anything to be in the fundamentally sedate world of watchmaking. However, one of the pleasant things about poking around in the relative quiet after the first day or two's onslaught of Big News from Rolex, Omega, Tudor, Seiko, and the like, is making unexpected discoveries, and a good place to do that is among the small independent brands. Moritz Grossmann's booth didn't take up much real estate this year (it never does), but in the company's almost closet-sized meeting room, you could see some of the most beautifully executed wristwatches anyone is making right now, and one of the nicest (in every sense of the word) that we saw was the Benu 37.

The Benu 37 is the smallest watch in the Benu collection (which was the first Moritz Grossman collection at the time of the company's launch, in 2008) and though it's also the simplest, it's just as rich in carefully thought out detail as any of the more complicated Grossmann watches. In classic Glashütte fashion, there is nothing extraneous – just an absorbingly high level of attention to everything essential. One of the most enthralling features of Moritz Grossmann watches are the hour and minute hands, which in the Benu 37 are heat-treated to a brownish-violet, rather than the usual cornflower blue (I've seen this color used in some vintage American pocket watches but it's generally been far less common to heat-treat steel hands to this color, than to blue). The hands in the Benu 37 are extremely finely made, with highly polished steel centers; seeing them is a reminder of what the standard should be for high grade hands in fine watchmaking.

The movement is the caliber MG 100.0. This is a 26.0mm x 3.45mm, hand-wound movement, with an adjustable mass, 10mm balance; there is a micrometer screw-type regulator, which has been designed to be usable without de-casing the movement. This type of regulator is another feature I've seen a lot of in vintage American pocket watches (although I'm sure it's not exclusive to US-made 19th and 20th century railroad-grade pocket watches, that's the only place I've personally seen them). The three-quarter plate is untreated German silver, with an engraved, stepped balance cock held in place by a single, heat-purpled screw – the stepped cock and shape of the screw are reminiscent of late 19th century hand-made English pocket watches. And as well, it's a pillar-and-plate construction, which is about as resolutely anachronistic as it gets – pillar-and-plate movement architecture pretty much went out with catgut fusées, and by the mid-19th century had largely vanished.

As you get in a bit closer to the movement, you realize that the elaborately executed hands are not an exception, but rather the rule, in terms of Moritz Grossmann's approach to watchmaking. Everything on the movement side of the watch appears to have been done in as meticulous a fashion as possible. The micrometric fine adjustment is a quite complex solution, but so is the click mechanism (the spring and pawl system that keeps the ratchet wheel from slipping back, and prevents the watch from unwinding as you wind it). The balance spring stud holder, which holds the outer end of the balance spring in place, is quite complex as well; I can't recall ever having seen anything quite like it, outside of Moritz Grossmann.

The screwed-in gold chatons for the (white sapphire) train jewels are another unecessary and luxurious flourish, as is the very eye-catching, double-spiral sunray brushing on the ratchet wheel, with its visible jeweled bearing. The crown wheel is beautifully finished as well, with a black polished steel cover that contrasts beautifully with the ratchet wheel. An additional point of interest is that all the train wheels are made, not of traditional brass with steel pinions, but ARCAP, which is a light, high tensile-strength, nonmagnetic alloy (copper, nickel and zinc) that first appeared in watchmaking in very high end watches (Richard Mille) but which is now also increasingly being used in mass produced watches (the Tissot Powermatic and Swatch Sistem 51 both have ARCAP parts). 

You might be starting to suspect that all this does not come cheap, and you would be right – the Benu 37 is an extremely expensive time-only wristwatch. The version you see here, in rose gold, lists for $28,300. That's a breathtakingly high price, certainly. Now, probably neither brand will thank me for mentioning the other in the same breath, but you, gentle reader, are certainly thinking the same thing I am: the Lange Saxonia 37 comes with all the reputation associated with A. Lange & Söhne, and is in many respects a very similar offer – only the Saxonia 37 is $14,800, or in other words, just shy of half the price of the Grossmann. Price, however, is not the whole story; if you compare the two watches side by side you will see obvious differences in approach. For instance, a comparison of the finish and complexity of the ratchet wheel, crown wheel, and click/click springs of the two watches would tend to favor the Grossmann, certainly in complexity and variety of finishes, if not in quality.

Further complicating matters for those of you with five figures to burn on a high grade, hand wound watch, is Patek Philippe. There are some time-only Calatravas in Patek's catalogue right now which have prices high enough to give even a Gilded Age robber baron an uneasy feeling of social injustice – a 6006G (which, okay, is not really a fair apples-to-apples comparison as it's an automatic, and has a date pointer) is a whopping $30,620 of your best beloved dollars. However, the 5119J, with caliber 215 PS (less elaborate than the Grossmann caliber 100.00, more elaborate than the Lange L093.1) splits the difference, at $19,730. The funny thing is, there are distinct differences in approach between all three watches and, taking into account the state of modern, high-end watch pricing, the differences actually seem to make a weird kind of sense, at least on a complexity-of-construction and finish basis. If you're wondering about Audemars Piguet, by the way, they do have a very lovely hand-wound movement: the in-house caliber 3090; however this is a smaller movement, at 21.4mm, and it is currently only deployed in either a 28mm or 33mm version. The  33mm watch (the Jules Audemars Small Seconds, 33mm) does however undercut the Patek significantly, at $17,400.

Questions of cost aside (and if you can afford, and desire, a simple, hand-wound, precious metal, high grade watch in the five figure price range at all, the question is probably not "how much?" but rather "which one?") the Benu 37 is a very, very enjoyable piece of watchmaking. Every square nanometer of every visible element (and probably every invisible element, too) seems to have been pored over and brought to as fine a level of finish as possible, and on the wrist it's one of the most charming wristwatches I've worn in a long time. There is a certain amount of competition in quality, in hand-wound watches, at this price point but high-grade hand-wound movements are actually fairly rare, so it's not a terribly crowded field. Even in comparison with other models between $15,000 and $30,000, the Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 makes an excellent case for itself – and for the benefits of a certain appealingly obsessive attention to detail.

More info on the Benu 37 is available at Grossmann-uhren.com.

In recent years, some of the more collectible vintage Heuers have been the so-called pilots’ version of the Carrera, the reference 1158. ("Pilot" here means F1 pilot, not aircraft pilot.) This was an early 1970s automatic chronograph produced in solid gold, with the familiar C-shaped case. For sheer audacity – these watches were made in solid gold and came on gold mesh bracelets – it’s hard to think of any real competition in the world of Heuer watches. 

As we saw on a recent episode of Talking Watches, Mario Andretti has one. So did his former teammate, the Swedish driver Ronnie Peterson. Today, we’re introducing a unique piece that is a re-edition of the Carrera that the "SuperSwede" received from Jack Heuer upon winning the Jo Siffert Prix Rouge et Blanc Award (sponsored by Marlboro, for the "underdog" drive of the day) at the 1972 German Grand Prix. The original watch, which sold for $230,000 at Sotheby’s in 2016 and is now in the TAG Heuer Museum, came engraved with words ”SUCCESS RONNIE PETERSON FROM JACK W. HEUER.” In all, fewer than 500 of the ref. 1158 in yellow gold are thought to have been made, and several of them ended up on the wrists of famous drivers of the day. Last November’s Heuer Parade saw two of these watches come up for sale – Lots 15 and 39 – which went for CHF 22,500 and CHF 35,000, respectively.

To commemorate Peterson’s career and benefit the Ronnie Peterson Foundation, TAG Heuer has made a single gold replica of his original 1158. The gold case and Milanese bracelet are on point re-editions, as is the look of the dial. But where the original 1158 came with the in-house Caliber 12 movement, an upgraded version of the Caliber 11, the new watch comes with what TAG Heuer today calls a Caliber 11, which is a Sellita base caliber outfitted with a chronograph module from Dubois-Dépraz.

Ronnie Peterson raced in Formula One from 1970 to 1978 for three teams. Over the course of his Formula One career, which was tragically cut short – he  died in 1978, at 34, as a result of injuries sustained in a crash at Monza – Peterson won 10 Grands Prix and reached the podium 26 times. 

The auction, titled Les Grandes Marques à Monaco, takes place May 11 in Monte Carlo, and is focused on all things racing. This unique TAG Heuer is lot 111 (that's right, the auction is May 11, the movement is caliber 11, and the lot is 111) and has been listed with an estimate of $24,000 to $37,000.

For more information about this watch or lot 110, the Formula Three car that will also be auctioned, visit Bonham's online.

This week we have a great selection of vintage watches for your collecting needs. From a simple and timeless Universal Genève Polerouter to a Thunderbird, we've got you covered. Here's what we've got in store for you this week.

1960s Heuer Camaro Ref. 7743

The Heuer Camaro has a small but strong cult following and is known both for its cushion-form case and its association with Chevrolet's Camaro Super Sport (the Indy 500's official pace car from 1967-1969). At the time, Jack Heuer jumped on the marketing opportunity and promoted the two-register chronograph and its new case shape. The watch was only produced from 1968 to 1972 and really captured the essence of the time. You can read more about this watch here. 

1965 Breitling SuperOcean Ref. 2005

We love a good vintage Breitling, whether it's a Top Time, a Premier Chronograph, or a Navitimer. But right now we are crushing hard on this SuperOcean reference 2005. While it's certainly one of the bigger vintage watches made by Breitling, there's something so appealing about the special "slow" chronograph feature, with its oversized chronograph hand that only counts elapsed minutes (not seconds). This tool watch is one for the ages and you can read more about it here. 

1966 Rolex Thunderbird Ref. 1625

Ah, the Thunderbird. This watch, also known as the Turn-O-Graph, is the perfect mix of form and function. It's not quite a Datejust, not quite a Submariner – it's just the right mix. It was produced from 1959-1977 and this example from 1966 boasts a stainless steel case with a bi-directional bezel. Where does the nickname come from, you ask? It comes from the USAF Air Demonstration Squadron, established in 1953 – one member pilot wore this watch to start and then it eventually became the team's official watch. You can read more about this here. 

The Full-Set

In addition to these highlights, we also have a 1950s Universal Genève Polerouter Jet Automatic and a 1981 Rolex Air-King reference 5500 with Winn-Dixie dial. You can shop the full collection here. 

On March 11, Peter Stas, co-founder and CEO of Frederique Constant, sounded the alarm about what he sees as the increasing threat of the Apple Watch to the Swiss watch industry.

Writing on his personal blog on the Frederique Constant website, Stas cited a study by the Washington, DC-based Juniper Research Group, estimating that sales of hybrid connected watches (i.e. with analog dials) will soar to 80 million units in 2022 from 14 million last year. Then he wrote this: 

"I feel that the Swiss watch industry still doesn't understand how much the Apple watch and other smartwatches have eaten into the figures for quartz watch movements ... The Apple Watch is now in its third generation and who knows what they will bring with the fourth generation. If they start to adapt the case and have something other than just a black screen, then the Swiss watch industry could be heading for trouble. I still say quite frankly that many of my colleagues in the industry don't know what is happening."

Two weeks later, I met with Stas at the Baselworld watch show to find out why he is so worried about Apple when so many of his colleagues aren't.

When it comes to smartwatches, the 54-year-old, Dutch-born Stas has cred. He has turned Frederique Constant, the firm he and his wife, Aletta Stas-Bax, founded in Geneva 30 years ago, into one of Switzerland's few smartwatch players. In 2015, Frederique Constant introduced its Horological Smartwatch, a connected watch with an analog dial and hands instead of the more common touchscreen dial. It used MotionX technology and was developed by the Swiss company Manufacture Modules Technologies (MMT). 

Many of my colleagues in the industry don't know what is happening.

Stas says the Frederique Constant Group has sold 150,000 Horological Smartwatches under the FC and Alpina labels. (Alpina is a sports-watch brand the couple acquired in 2002 to complement Frederique Constant's classic-watch positioning.) Indeed, the FC Group holds an impressive 28.5% market share in value in the $600+ connected watch segment, according to confidential data that Stas showed Hodinkee from a top research firm. (The FC brand holds the lion's share at 25.3%.) 

This year, Stas has upped the ante with two new smartwatches. The Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture watch, priced from $3,495 to $3,795, is the world's first smartwatch with an in-house mechanical movement. The new Alpina AlpinerX Outdoor Smartwatch, which Stas has launched on Kickstarter, contains five sensors and more than a dozen functions. The price is not set yet, but it is expected to be around $900 to $1,000. 

It's Not Just 30-Somethings

Consumers are responding to the new health features in smartwatches, Stas says. "We see this in the research data. We thought that smartwatches were being bought by 30-somethings, but they are not. They are mostly bought by 50-to-60-somethings, at least in our segment [which is] the more expensive watch. And this is logical, because older people are more interested in their health. 

"So, once Apple or others start to provide this information, then people are going to continue to wear those watches. The health part is only starting now. We [Swiss] better be very, very careful. Apple knows much more than we do, and I see clearly what they are doing. They will go more and more into this area, finding ways to inform people about medical situations. And they will only get better."

Apple is the big threat. It sold just under 18 million Apple Watches in 2017, according to industry estimates. (Market data companies International Data Corp. and Asymco put the figure at 17.7 million; Creative Strategies estimates 17.4 million. Apple itself does not disclose watch sales data.) 

More expensive smartwatches are bought by 50-to-60-year-old somethings, not 30-somethings.

"But it's not only Apple," Stas says. IDC estimates that all other producers sold 15.6 million. "The IDC data means there is 47% that is not Apple." 

Indeed, last year's total sales of 33.3 million smartwatches far exceeded the entire Swiss watch industry's output of around 25.5 million units. (Switzerland exported 24.3 million watches in 2017, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry; another 5% were sold in the country itself.)

It is this rising tide of smartwatches that Stas is worried about. "This is what's going to beat out the normal watch industry," he says. "It's already happening on the quartz side." 

Stas cites figures that we called attention to in a February 7 article, showing that Swiss exports of quartz watches had fallen by 3.25 million units in just two years to 17.1 million pieces, a drop of 16%. "That is because of the smartwatches," Stas says. The situation will worsen as smartwatch producers add health applications to the watches, he predicts. 

Protecting The Quartz Flank

Concern about the impact of smartwatches on the Swiss quartz-watch market was a factor in Stas's decision to compete in the smartwatch category. Frederique Constant is a leader in Switzerland's "accessible luxury" category of watches (priced roughly from $1,000 to $4,000). It produces quartz men's and ladies' watches for the lower end of the product line. 

But that wasn't the main reason, Stas says. "First of all, we started this in 2015 because I like it. I like the product. I like the innovation part. That's the driver. I like it because you are adding features to a fine quartz watch, which is inherently a little bit boring, a little bit standing still for at least 25 years already. So now we can add really meaningful features, things we can experiment with, things we can use. I like the apps. And I am increasingly intrigued by what kind of insights we can give to people.

"But at the same time, it is a defensive move. I also see clearly that the smart category is going to eat into the quartz category. So, it's also partly a defensive move. I am very open about that."

Stas is very glad he took the leap into smartwatch technology. Smartwatches have become an important niche for the group. In less than three years, they account for 14% of FC Group's total annual revenue. For Frederique Constant, the leader brand, they represent 12% of total sales; for Alina, 20%. 

We're going now into more health-related [apps]. It will become very interesting and very dangerous. You're going to get a watch that is indispensable. 

"That's important," Stas says. Smartwatches enabled the company to grow through the Swiss industry's downturn of 2015-16. "[The industry] had a difficult period," Stas says. "If we didn't have this category, we would have missed between 10% and 15% of turnover. And we would not have grown, I tell you." FC would have been among the horde of Swiss watch firms whose sales slumped during that stretch, he says. 

All of that makes Stas optimistic about the market for expensive smartwatches. "Now we are adding the Hybrid Manufacture, which, value wise, is high. Also, the AlpinerX, which is much more a mass product. So we'll see where it goes. I think it's a category that probably will represent about 20% of turnover in the medium to long term. And it could well represent 30%." 

(Actual sales figures for the group are not available. Through 2015, the company was privately held, and did not disclose sales data. In 2016, Japan's Citizen Watch Co. acquired Frederique Constant Holding SA for $119.2 million. Citizen is a public company, but it does not break out sales by brands. The FC group includes a third brand, Ateliers deMonaco, a small producer of haute horlogèrie watches, co-founded by Stas in Monaco in 2008 and now headquartered in Geneva.) 

The Design Factor

Stas is convinced that Swiss brands can, and indeed must, compete in the smartwatch market, particularly in the hybrid category, which some analysts predict is about to explode.

He says studies show that price is not the primary factor in the purchase of a smartwatch. Or even the secondary factor. 

With smartwatches, he says, "the number one reason people buy is the design. It starts with that." Frederique Constant's best-selling smartwatch is its most expensive model, a rose-gold-plated watch priced at $1,290. It accounts for between 30% and 40% of the brand's smartwatch sales. 

Ultimately, Stas expects smartwatches to account for 20% to 30% of Frederique Constant Group sales.

The second most important reason is instant access to data.

On the new Hybrid Manufacture watch, the owner sees instantly his step target totals. "That's what the customer wants," Stas says. "We have other watches where you have to press the crown and the hands will point to the percentage. Even when those [models] are less expensive, they are less acceptable. People need to see the information instantly.

"The number three reason is price. Price is important but it's not the determining factor. It's OK that it's a little bit more expensive when the watch looks good." 

A handful of Swiss firms have introduced smartwatch models. In addition to FC and Alpina, they include TAG Heuer, Montblanc, Movado, Mondaine, and the Geneva design brand myKronoz. Breitling and Louis Vuitton have put a toe in the water. Most other brands, though, are taking a pass. And taking a risk, Stas says. 

"That 3 million drop [in quartz watches]: part of that is because of the smartwatch wave. And that's not going away. I still hear people saying, 'It's just something temporary.' I don't think so. I think when you're giving more health insights, when the applications are getting better and better, it will only accelerate the problem." 

Quick Take

Though the 1815 Annual Calendar is the watch that made a big splash at SIHH 2017, it's important to not forget its predecessor, the Saxonia Annual Calendar (which debuted back in 2010). This practical complication is made even more wearable by being powered by an automatic Sax-O-Mat caliber, and the big date display is quintessential Lange. This new edition is technically identical to the original, but with a new sleek grey dial paired with a white gold case and a winding rotor that combines a black rhodium finish with circular graining, to give it a black-and-gold appearance. Only 25 pieces will be made of this new model and they're available exclusively through Lange's U.S. boutiques in New York City, Costa Mesa, California, and Miami.

Initial Thoughts

I liked the original Saxonia Annual Calendar, but this sends the watch over the top for me. The combination of the brushed grey dial with the matching white-on-grey date discs is sublime, and the little punch of blue that you get from the moonphase disc keeps it from becoming monotonous. I also really like the new treatment on the rotor, despite generally preferring hand-wound Lange watches – I'm looking forward to giving it a closer look under a loupe sometime soon. The only thing here I'd change? That strap. To me the shiny blue distracts from the subtlety and cohesiveness of the dial. Maybe something in a softer, darker blue would better suit the watch. Luckily, that's an easy fix. 

The Basics

Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
Model: Saxonia Annual Calendar U.S. Boutique Exclusive
Reference Number: 330.039

Diameter: 38.5mm
Thickness: 9.8mm
Case Material: White gold
Dial Color: Grey on solid silver
Indexes: Applied white gold batons
Lume: None
Strap/Bracelet: Shiny blue alligator strap with white gold prong buckle

The Movement

Caliber: L.085.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, annual calendar including the month, day of the week, date, and moonphase
Diameter: 30.4mm
Thickness: 5.4mm
Power Reserve: 46 hours
Winding: Automatic via micro-rotor
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Jewels: 43
Total Components: 476
Additional Details: Stop-seconds mechanism with zero-reset; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver

Pricing & Availability

Price: $54,500
Availability: A. Lange & Söhne boutiques in New York, Costa Mesa, and Miami
Limited Edition: 25 pieces

For more click here.

Following in the format they established last year at Baselworld with a modern and more affordable spin on their SLA017 "62MAS" reissue, Seiko has launched a pair of non-limited Prospex divers that offer a look based on that of their vintage reference 6159 (and its modern reissue, the SLA025). Working from a basic idea similar to last year's SBP051/53, these new Prospex models are meant to split the difference between the loosely-similar and limited edition re-issue piece, and the more common and established look of a Seiko dive watch. 

While Seiko's full naming is "The 1968 Automatic Diver's Modern Re-interpretation SPB077 and SPB079," seeing as coffee breaks are only so long, let's go with SPB077/79. The SPB077 has a black bezel and a steel bracelet, while the SPB079 has a steely blue bezel and comes on a silicone strap. Aside from these differences, the two versions are the same. At 44mm wide, 13.1mm thick, and 51mm lug to lug, the SPB077/79 wears not unlike a longer version of the much loved Prospex SRP777 (and its myriad versions). The cases are made of stainless steel and feature screw-down casebacks, rather than the monoblock construction of the SLA025 reissue. The curvy case shape, the narrow lugs, and the crown at four do carry over from the design of the original reference 6159. 

Tucked safely behind a flat and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the dial design is likely the most considerable departure from the original model. While the basic layout for the markers and the date at three o'clock are similar, the SPB077/79 both do without the original's gilt treatment and make use of a flat black dial. Perhaps most noticeable, like last year's 62MAS-inspired SPB051/53, the SPB077/79 use a distinctive handset with a huge arrow-style (mouse pointer?) hour hand, and a sword-style minute hand. The seconds hand design is also distinct from the reference material, with the lume on the counterbalance similar to what you'd find on the SRP77X "Turtle" divers. 

Being a Prospex, we wouldn't expect to find a high-end or high-beat movement inside; the SPB077/79 uses Seiko's well-known 6R15 automatic movement. Common to this price point, the 6R15 is a 3 Hz movement with a power reserve of some 50 hours, offering hacking, hand-winding, and in this application, magnetic protection to 4800 A/m. For those just getting into Seiko, the 6R15 is a step up over both the entry-level and non-handwound 7S26 found in models like the SKX007, and the newer 4R36 (which does offer both hacking and hand-winding) found in the the SRP77X line and many other models. 

At 44mm wide, this is not a small watch and, unlike the SRP777, the SPB077/79 does not benefit from a shorter-than-normal lug to lug measurement in proportion to its case width (the SRP777 is 47.25mm lug to lug vs. the SPB077/79's 51mm). Tested on the rubber strap, the SPB079 wears well and doesn't feel especially thick if you're used to wearing a Seiko diver. Like the SPB051/053 before it, the hour hand will likely be either a love-or-hate design element for many interested parties. While I understand why Seiko would want to distinguish this reference from something more akin to a premium option like a Marine Master, I do find this handset a bit bold for my liking. That said, viewed as a whole, I rather like the look of these divers and can understand why the slightly eccentric handset might offer additional appeal to someone looking for a change from their trusty SKX. 

A welcome entry into Seiko's more affordable family of watches, the Prospex SPB077 carries a retail list price of $1,050 with its full steel bracelet, while the blue-accented SPB079 on rubber comes in at $850. Nicely made, dive-ready, and carrying a blend of Seiko both old and new, the 1968 Automatic Diver's Modern Re-interpretation SPB077 and SPB079 are refreshing and distinctive takes on Seiko's continuing legacy of dive watch design.

For more info, visit Seiko Prospex online.   

When a representative from Vacheron Constantin asked me if I’d like to spend a little time with the Patrimony Traditionnelle Tourbillon in rose gold, I'll admit that my interest was piqued. The prospect of owning a six-figure high complication in a precious metal is pretty far from where I am in my own collecting journey; the idea seemed almost ridiculous, but in a most positively intriguing way. I asked another editor here what he thought about such a story. He said, "If they'll actually lend you one of those, then yeah, that would be awesome." Try one on for a week, I thought? Aw heck, why not.

Researching this story, I learned with the aid of Vacheron Constantin's heritage department that the first wristwatch tourbillon from Vacheron was the reference 30050,  manufactured between 1990 and 2000. According to Carole Lambelet and Lorette Coen's book The World of Vacheron Constantin, the caliber 1760 movement inside this watch was developed with Nouvelle Lémania; one of these rare birds sold at Sotheby's, in 2016, for CHF 62,500. Some other important tourbillon wristwatches date to 2005, a year that marked the 250th anniversary celebrations for the Geneva maison. These early models combined the tourbillon with other complications.

These included the Saint-Gervais and the Tour de l’Ile, the former combining its tourbillon with a perpetual calendar and a 250-hour power reserve that was a nod to the company’s milestone anniversary year (actually, the four barrels provided for 270 hours, with a stop mechanism capping the the reserve at 250). The latter, the famous Tour de l’Ile, was named for the historic home of Vacheron Constantin in a tower atop a small island, situated at the confluence of the Rhône River and Lake Geneva. Vacheron has since returned to this property, and Jack went up the tower for a visit back in January. The Tour de l’Ile was produced in an extremely limited run of seven pieces, and had 16 complications, with an initial price tag of $1.5 million.

One of the more memorable recent wristwatches to come from Vacheron Constantin was another tourbillon with an extended power reserve. The Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon arrived on the scene in the run-up to SIHH 2012, and brought with it a beautiful tourbillon mechanism with a cage inspired by the Maltese Cross, the symbol of VC. It was a beautiful, hand-wound 42mm gentleman's dress watch with a pretty staggering two-week power reserve via four barrels. When I first became aware of this watch, my thoughts immediately turned to Patek Philippe's own 10-Day Tourbillon, and how Vacheron had eclipsed that watch's lengthy reserve in a rather dramatic fashion. Perhaps that was the idea, I thought at the time. And that watch also came at time when Vacheron was redoubling its commitment to the Geneva Seal, in contrast to Patek, which had adopted its own, internal Patek Philippe Seal in 2009.

The watch you see here is very much in line with the design of that original Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon from seven years ago, but now it features a new automatic movement. The reserve is pretty dramatically reduced – down to 80 hours, in fact – but it's automatic, which means that it's constantly being wound as you go about your day. So there isn't really any issue with the reserve. Either way, both models have been designed without even a simple calendar complication.

The idea that the long power reserve is there to spare you the trouble of re-setting the time or date should the watch accidentally run down, isn't really an argument for the long power reserve in these particular tourbillons – instead, I think it's there as a demonstration of horological prowess. Moreover, neither is exactly the kind of watch that is easy to imagine making one's daily wearer. It's a solid precious metal tourbillon, the kind of watch that I'd probably be afraid to wear on my subway ride to work.

In a move that saved overall height while preserving a view of the movement – which is just as impressive to behold as in the 14-day variation – Vacheron opted for a peripherally mounted 22k gold rotor. The rotor can be seen skirting the outer edges of the finely adorned caliber 2160, a 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph) Geneva Seal beauty that Vacheron makes in-house and adjusts in five positions. In recent years, we have seen the release of several peripheral rotor tourbillons from Breguet, Carl F. Bucherer, and Bulgari, but it's still a somewhat unusual combination. The finishing on this movement is everything that you'd expect from a caliber created in compliance with the criteria set forth by the Seal. The plates and bridges come sumptuously adorned with Geneva waves, the screw heads are black polished, and the edges are finely beveled. 

The rotor itself is decorated with hobnailing, as well as the company name and the Maltese cross. But if I can be allowed one overall aesthetic criticism of caliber 2160, it is that the inner gearing on the peripheral rotor, which engages with the rest of the automatic winding train, seems a little out of place with the fine finishing on the rest of the movement. This, however, does somewhat derive from the use of a peripheral rotor in conjunction with a traditionally construced movement, and a trade off the benefit of which is having an automatic movement, with the entire movement always visible.

In case you're wondering, this watch doesn't replace the hand-wound 14-day tourbillon, it merely joins the Patrimony Traditionnelle product family and comes with a slightly different set of features. From a price comparison standpoint, the original 14-day tourbillon is going to cost you $254,000 in rose gold, and $348,000 in platinum with a movement that has been skeletonized, while the watch you see here is set to sell for $118,000 in rose gold and $149,000 in platinum.

I prefer the dial of this new model over its 14-day precursor because it feels a bit cleaner without the power reserve indicator. It's also more symmetrical, with the company's name and the Maltese Cross moving to the 12 o'clock position. Looking closely at the rose gold hands, indexes, and Maltese Cross on the silvered opaline dial, you can see that they have been assiduously polished in a manner befitting a watch of such gravity, from a manufacturer of this stature. The printed track for the minutes is a nice touch that's echoed in the track for the subsidiary seconds; it's a one minute tourbillon, which means you can have a running seconds hand just by putting a hand on the pivot of the tourbillon cage – or, as in this case, having one of the four upper cage screws with a different finish from the other three.

On the wrist, the Patrimony Traditionnelle Tourbillon has the presence that one should expect from a 41mm x 10.4mm solid gold wristwatch, and the large, visible tourbillon mechanism seems to accentuate this effect. But it's also a watch whose proportions, and whose quality of design, allowed it to wear very well on my seven-inch wrist – this despite being a size that's just north of that of the watches I normally wear. At times the contrast of this watch against the flannel shirtsleeves so typical of my late winter/early spring wardrobe was striking, so I found myself trying to up my sartorial game during my time with this watch, if only to let it really sing.

Going about my daily routine while wearing an exotic, solid gold tourbillon was an experience that was memorable in a way that other lengthy test drives might not have been. Friends, on more than one occasion, actually reached out to grab my wrist mid-air so as to have a closer look at what to them surely seemed the ne plus ultra of luxury wristwatches. There is something about a tourbillon that gets this kind of incredulous reaction from people. A perpetual calendar or a split-seconds chronograph can muster an air of functional plausibility that a baroque, early early 19th-century mechanism cased up in solid gold, it seems, cannot. In a way this is a simple watch – its only indications are for the time, after all – but it's an exceedingly well-executed one.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Tourbillon is priced at $118,000 in rose gold. A second, platinum version will be made in a limited edition of 25 and will join the Excellence Platine Collection. Find out more about the Traditionelle Tourbillon at Vacheron-Constantin.com.

A few times per year, some of the biggest vintage Rolex collectors and most important vintage Rolex dealers gather in an undisclosed location to, well, play show and tell. But this show and tell isn't like what you used to play in grade school – there are no Barbies, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, or the like. Nay, this show and tell features some of the absolute rarest, most hard-to-come-by vintage sports watches in the world. For this go-around, the theme was "Issued" watches, meaning the majority of the timepieces seen were provided to team members of military, police, and private dive units, rather than sold at retail. This is rarified horological air, people.

Philipp Stahl over at Rolex Passion Report has the full break down and tons of live photos of some of the most amazing old watches around. Trust us, you're going to want to take a look. 

In step with their ongoing brand refresh, Breitling recently announced an update to their Chronomat Colt range that offers a new look in both 44mm and 41mm sizes. While the 41mm diameter is not new to the Colt line, it does represent something of a sweet spot in terms of sport watch size and Breitling has included a pair of new dial colors in this low-key but welcome rethinking of the everyman's Chronomat. 

Typically characterized by a chunky steel bezel with Breitling's signature "rider tabs" for added grip, the Chronomat line has traditionally housed a wide and varying array of watches that all loosely fall into the "all purpose" category. Tough, burly, and often quite large, Breitling has seen fit to continue the Chronomat's placement within their lineup, distinct from their newly defined Air/Water/Earth organization scheme (which is represented by the Navitimer, Superocean, and Transocean, respectively). The Colt has traditionally been one of the entry-level models from Breitling and it has always blended a sort of military appeal with the basic philosophy of a dive watch. 

For this Baselworld 2018 refresh, the format remains unchanged, with a 41mm steel case sporting a wide steel bezel, chunky lugs, and the option of either the Pilot steel bracelet or a black leather strap. The design is nicely utilitarian, with a simple, legible, and balanced dial, with long hands, and a pop of red on the arrowhead tip of the seconds hand. Just as sport-ready as it looks, the Colt has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, screw down crown, a solid steel caseback, and 200 meters water resistance. With a fuss-free and nicely-executed date function at three, the Colt remains a very solid everyday sports watch. 

Along with the dial design, the most noteworthy aspect of this Colt refresh comes down to dial color. Now offered in either "Silver" (seen below, more of a matte creamy light-grey) or "Tempest Gray" (metallic, with a brushed sunray finish), both versions of the Colt look really good. I especially like the unexpectedly modern feel of the matte Silver dial as it is surrounded by the brushed steel of the Colt's bezel. While both dial options work well for the Colt design, the Tempest Gray dial is classic Breitling while the Silver dial is just a bit strange (in a good way). 

While certainly heavy on the Pilot steel bracelet, being 41mm wide and 12.4mm thick, the Colt wears really well and I think it would be even better on a simple leather or canvas strap. The bezel action is smooth, and aided in grip by the rather baroque rider tabs. In this size, the Colt has presence and heft, but not so much that it overpowers my seven-inch wrist. Despite my preference for a light-toned dial, in either color I think the Colt is one of Breitling's most well-rounded offerings and an attractive option for anyone wanting a tough everyday sports watch that isn't especially flashy. 

The Chronomat Colt Automatic 41 uses the ETA-based Breitling 17 movement (base, ETA 2824) with time and date, and a power reserve of around 40 hours. Priced at $3,240 on a leather strap, or $3,620 on the Pilot steel bracelet shown in these photos, the Colt will not be without fierce competition from all sides. Offering an entirely wearable spin on that attractive Breitling sports watch motif, the Colt 41 manages to nail the appeal of a solid, well-built, all-rounder.  

To learn more, visit Breitling.