When it comes to vintage Heuer, the Carrera gets all the attention. Even from us. Whether it's going in-depth on the very first Carrera or celebrating the watch's 50th anniversary, we're on it. And today, TAG Heuer uses the Carrera as the foundation for both very affordable watches and high complications. But the Carrera isn't the only Heuer that matters – far from it, in fact.

The good folks over at On The Dash have put together a comprehensive guide for everything you need to know about another Heuer reference, the Camaro. It shares a lot in common with the more well-known Carrera but with a different profile and a different history. 

Check out the complete On The Dash guide to the Heuer Camaro here.

The IWC Automatic Aquatimer 2,000 Meters is a watch designed to withstand the pressure found at a depth of two kilometers. It looks and feels every inch the part, but could anyone ever – even theoretically – wear it that far down and not instantly (and messily) implode? Let's look at the watch itself, and at the same time conduct a little thought experiment on what might happen if you tried to go as deep as the watch can.

This particular version of the Aquatimer has the greatest depth rating of any model in the current Aquatimer collection, but it's not the first 2,000 meter rated IWC watch. The very first was the IWC Ocean 2,000, which was a collaboration with Porsche Design made back in 1982. Despite the extreme depth rating, the watch – also the first wristwatch with a titanium case and bracelet – was not especially big, at 42mm x 12.6mm; not a dress watch by any means, but still not terribly beefy by modern standards.  

The IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2,000 Meters, on the other hand, wants you to have no doubts as to its toughness. It's 46mm x 20.5mm, although the SafeDive bezel system probably involves some extra girth and thickness as well.  The SafeDive system consists of an outer bezel, which rotates an inner bezel via an internal gear linkage; the idea is to combine the ease of use of an outer bezel with the legibility of an inner bezel.  A dive watch with a SafeDive system is actually rather similar in construction to a modern submarine – subs, in general, have an outer hull which provides good hydrodynamics and streamlining, and an inner pressure hull which contains the living and work spaces for the crew.  Likewise, the SafeDive system involves an outer case (on which the outer bezel is mounted) which allows the ingress and egress of water, and an inner case, which is responsible for protecting the movement. The protrusion at 9:00 houses the coupling gear mechanism linking the inner and outer bezels.  

The domed sapphire crystal stands quite prominently above the bezel (whose design mirrors that of the IWC Ocean 2,000) at least 3-4mm, and of course the movements used in the original Ocean 2,000 and the Aquatimer 2,000 Meters are quite different. The Ocean 2,000 used the IWC cal. 3752 (an ETA 2892–based movement) which is quite a bit thinner than the IWC cal. 80110 used in this Aquatimer. Caliber 80110 was launched in 2005 in the then-new Ingenieur Automatic, and it's 30mm x 7.26mm, including IWC's Pellaton winding system. This is quite a bit thicker than the 3.6mm-thick ETA 2892, although arguably a more robust choice for a technical dive watch.

Now, let's talk about depth. Every meter of water exerts an additional amount of pressure above what air pressure is at sea level; the exact amount is an extra 1.422 pounds per square inch per meter. The deeper you go, the harder the water pushes on you. The Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) recommends 30 meters as a limit for recreational scuba diving, at which point pressure is 42.67 p.s.i. If you are breathing normal compressed air, which is largely oxygen and nitrogen, your body will absorb additional nitrogen as the nitrogen already in your body is compressed. At the surface, you have about 1.5 liters of nitrogen dissolved in your blood and body fluids; at 10 meters, however (one atmosphere's worth of pressure) this doubles to three liters.  

There are two main problems with having more nitrogen than normal dissolved in your body. The first is that if you ascend too quickly, the extra gas will form bubbles in your body fluids as it comes out of solution (same as with the carbon dioxide in a soda when you open the cap and pressure inside the bottle suddenly drops).  The result is decompression sickness: headache, severe joint pain, and even paralysis are some of the symptoms. The other problem is that nitrogen is a narcotic, and if you have too much of it in your body it will basically make you drunk. This phenomenon is called nitrogen narcosis, and it can cloud a diver's judgement badly enough to make you think you're swimming up when you're swimming down (for instance), which is clearly a potentially fatal circumstance. It's not a coincidence that the PADI limit is 30 meters, by the way: that's the depth at which nitrogen narcosis symptoms start to become noticeable in most adults. However, you can get around all of this by breathing a gas mixture that reduces, or even eliminates, nitrogen.

It goes without saying, by the way, that at 30 meters your Aquatimer 2,000 Meters hasn't even broken a sweat.

Mixed gas diving can take you even deeper though. You can reduce or even get rid of the nitrogen in the gas mixture you are breathing entirely, using other gasses like helium and hydrogen. Each of these, alone or in combination, can create their own problems, as can oxygen – we need oxygen to live, but what makes it essential for energy production in the body is its high chemical reactivity, which is also what makes it potentially dangerous. Deeper than about 60 meters, oxygen toxicity starts to become a problem too, and as you go deeper, you need to keep using less oxygen in your breathing mix. Because the nervous system is so metabolically active it's especially vulnerable to oxygen toxicity and symptoms can include everything from visual disturbances to convulsions, which would be a sub-optimal event at depth (to put it mildly).

However, if you take your time, know what you are doing, and breathe the right gas mixture, you can go shockingly deep. Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises (COMEX) divers reached 534 meters in experimental dives conducted in 1988. At that depth, pressure is 793.211 p.s.i. Now, intuitively it seems like you would simply be, to put it colloquially, squished to death. But remember, as long as the total pressure of all the gasses in your body is equal to the pressure on the outside of your body, you're good to go – to the extent that a third of a ton of weight per square inch, bearing down on you, in 534 meters of water, is good in any way at all. Your watch, by the way, is still fine and the atmospheric pressure inside the inner watch case is still equal to that at the surface.

This deep, however, physics and the laws of nature have decided that enough is enough, and they are trying to find other ways to kill you. Enter High Pressure Nervous Syndrome (HPNS). HPNS isn't well understood even today – it might be due to toxic gas effects, or it could simply be high pressure causing alterations in nervous system functioning, or both. But it seems to be the factor currently limiting human deep diving. Symptoms include all sorts of unfortunate things like tremors, vomiting, and seizures – all things that are, as medical textbooks like to dryly put it, "incompatible with life." HPNS is more or less completely incapacitating and since we don't know how to beat it, diving deeper than the 500-600 meter range seems permanently out of reach.

Your watch, by the way, is fine.

As an illustration of just how powerful water pressure is at such depths, consider a somber event: the 1963 loss, with all hands, of the USS Thresher. The lead boat of what was to be a new class of ultra-advanced nuclear attack submarines, Thresher was lost when a reactor malfunction (eventually traced to a faulty valve) left her without power to maneuver. Without the ability to move forward, and trimmed to a slightly negative buoyancy, she began to sink deeper and deeper, eventually imploding as the water pressure outside the hull crushed her. The event was almost unbelievably violent – at the moment of implosion, according to a Navy study conducted in 1969, water entered Thresher at a speed of about 2,600 mph, and it was all over in a tenth of a second. The incident shows clearly that the problem is not so much pressure at depth per se, but rather, pressure difference.  The depth at which Thresher's pressure hull failed is thought to have been just past the current technical limit for human diving – somewhere around 700 meters.

Suppose, though, that it were possible to dive deeper – that HPNS could be defeated, somehow? Well, even the safest inert gasses, like helium, become narcotic if you go deep enough. The problem is that, at this point, we've run up against an absence of data. Human experiments in inert gas narcosis and deep diving have never been done at depths even half that of the depth rating of the IWC Aquatimer 2,000 Meters. Unknown (but probably lethal) gas intoxication effects aside, the other problem is that at such extreme depths, breathing gas mixtures eventually become too dense to breathe. One proposed solution: breathing oxygen rich liquid. Such liquids, however, would not be very efficient at removing waste carbon dioxide from the body – even at rest, you'd need to circulate about 5 liters per minute in and out of your lungs. This would be a lot more work than breathing air. 

As we can easily see, the watch – assuming there are no manufacturing defects, metallurgically, or in its gaskets – has the ability to go more than twice as deep as any human is ever likely to dive and nearly four times as deep as any human has successfully dived to date.

At 2,000 meters, by the way, external pressure is 2,930.48 p.s.i. Only specially designed research submersibles, (such as the famous sub Alvin, operated by Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute) can go this deep; this depth is even beyond the capability of even the deepest-diving military submarines. Intriguingly, however, COMEX conducted a simulated dive, with human subjects breathing a hydrogen, helium, and oxygen mixture (hydreliox) in 1993, in which they achieved a simulated depth of 701 meters – so perhaps even greater depths might be possible after all.

So why own or wear a watch that can so dramatically exceed even the most extreme limits of the environment in which it's designed to be used? I think the question reflects a misunderstanding in its asking. The fact that the watch so drastically over-performs is in fact the exact reason you would want it (on the assumption, of course, that this kind of thing appeals to you in the first place). It's not necessarily a matter of bragging rights, or having a watch that acts as an enabler of idle Walter Mitty fantasies. There is some deeper, much more fundamental fascination with extreme machines of any kind, and as long as engineering achievements in watchmaking (and elsewhere) continue to be interesting for their own sake, I think people are still going to be intrigued by watches like the Automatic Aquatimer 2,000 Meters.

The IWC Automatic Aquatimer 2,000 Meters: case, all titanium, 46mm x 20.5mm, SafeDive inner/outer bezel system.  Movement, IWC manufacture caliber 80110, 44 hour power reserve. $9,500.

More info on the Aquatimer 2,000 Meters on IWC.com.  

Welcome to the inaugural Old vs. New, a column in which we take a look at an iconic vintage watch and the revamped 21st-century tribute. To kick things off, we’ll compare the Tudor Reference 7031 "Homeplate" chronograph and the Heritage Chrono, two nearly identical watches separated by almost 40 years. Tudor obviously decided very little needed changing when they brought back the recognizable design, but a closer inspection reveals some crucial modifications. After spending time with both, it's easy to understand what makes each special in its own right.

The Reference 7031 'Homeplate'

From the moment I first saw a ref. 7031 deep inside an auction catalog almost a decade ago, I knew I wanted one on my wrist. At the time, this watch wasn't even on my radar. But, then again, it wasn't really on anyone's radar. I can't remember the exact estimate on that particular example, but it was far from that of a cover lot. I was only then slowly discovering Tudor's history and the company's relationship with Rolex, and I learned a lot from this funky little chronograph.

Compared to the Rolex Daytona – in many ways the older brother of this watch – the ref. 7031 is big and brash. The black bakelite bezel, Oyster case, acrylic crystal, and screw-down pushers are reminiscent of the ref. 6263 Daytona (some later versions featured the ref. 6265's steel bezel), but that's where the similarities stop. The ref. 7031's case is a much larger 40mm and has protruding crown guards. Even with your eyes closed, you could easily tell the watches apart on the wrist. 

This was Tudor's first chronograph though, and a few other traces of Rolex remained. Early models were fitted with Rolex 7836 folded-link bracelets with 380 end pieces, for example, despite the imperfect fit. It also isn't uncommon to find components like the caseback and crown signed with "Rolex" and the coronet, instead of "Tudor" and the rose or shield. 

In stark contrast to the Daytona's black and white dial, the ref. 7031's is filled with color and unusual details. There are of course the oddly-shaped hour markers, for which the watch received its "Homeplate" nickname. Then there are the geometric subdials for the running seconds and the minute counter. Two variations of the ref. 7031 were made in 1971: the version with a grey dial and black registers, which I have here (and which I prefer), and a much rarer version with a black dial and grey registers. Both feature the signature orange accents and unusual geometry.

Climbing prices for vintage Daytonas happily coincided with many 7031's getting more attractive as the homeplate markers began to gradually develop an orange patina, to match the other dial details. Age began to reveal the true beauty of this unusual watch at just the right time to draw in collectors looking for a Daytona alternative. Prices for well-kept 7031s took off, and guys my age were left with a nagging sense of what could have been, had we only been born a couple of decades earlier. Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: Two only confirmed the trend in May 2016 with a 7031/0 selling for just under $26,000.

Heritage Chrono

In 2010, Tudor decided to bring back its very first chronograph with the Heritage Chrono, a modern take on the famous 7031. To the casual eye, the Heritage Chrono is extremely faithful to the original, and you'd be forgiven for mistaking one for the other at distance. But, as you'd expect after 40 years of (almost) uninterrupted development, Tudor has made a few tweaks.

One of the most obvious changes is the new bezel on the Heritage Chrono, which differs from the original both in design and functionality. The static bakelite bezel with tachymeter scale is gone, replaced by a 12-hour rotating steel bezel with 15-minute markers that can be used either as a timing bezel, or to display a second time zone. Unless you're a die-hard racing aficionado who hasn't discovered an electronic timer, this new configuration is a lot more practical. It’s not something Tudor has just started thinking about either. In fact, it was first used in a prototype known as the reference 7033,  which, though it appeared in Tudor's catalogue, was never put on the market; the first Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph with a rotating 12-hour bezel was the 7169, in 1974. (The bezel, as we mentioned, can be used to read off the time in another time zone but it also gives the ability to measure elapsed hours on a chronograph without an hour totalizer.)  

Otherwise the dial, right down to those five-sided markers, is remarkably similar to that of its ancestor. This is both great news for vintage fans, and rather essential for retaining that classic "Homeplate" nickname. The hands are also the same shape as the originals and are filled with lume. The only major change is the placement of the registers, which have been flipped so the 45-minute totalizer rests at 9 o’clock, opposite the small seconds at 3 o'clock. The date keeps its place at 6 o’clock, but Tudor has abandoned the Cyclops magnifier above it. I’ve never been a great fan of these magnifiers, but I do feel that its loss throws off the proportions of the ref. 7031 just a bit.

On the wrist is where the biggest difference is felt. The Heritage Chrono is 2mm larger than the original Homeplate (already one of the largest watches of the 70s), measuring 42mm across vs 40mm for the original (according to Isnardi's Tudor Anthology). The two watches are the same thickness though, both measuring 14mm top to bottom. For the modern version, Tudor uses an ETA 2892 movement, with a Dubois Depraz chronograph module, as opposed to the hand-wound Valjoux 7734 inside the ref. 7031. The bracelet in the new version is larger at the lugs and heavier overall.

Modern reissues tend to be bigger, due to consumer demands, and in some cases the use of larger movements. But the caliber inside the Heritage Chrono is actually smaller than the Valjoux 7734 (25.6mm vs 30mm in diameter), and it's relatively thin too (3.6mm) before you add the Dubois Depraz module (the Valjoux 7734 is 6.65mm thick), so no there is no reason to believe the difference in size is caused by the new movement. It's reasonable to assume Tudor designed the watch to appeal to a new generation of collectors.

The Verdict

So, which would you take home? I think it will surprise no one when I say the original model is, of the two, my personal pick. It's been on my mind for almost ten years, and my feelings towards it haven't changed. So what if the dial is worn out, or if the watch clinks and clanks with every movement of the wrist? In my mind, and in the minds of many others, that is precisely what makes a vintage watch so charming.

But the truth is the Heritage Chrono is actually a much friendlier watch to wear than the ref. 7031, and I want it almost as badly. The 12-hour graduated bezel offers a lot more functionality than the tachymeter scale, the water resistance has been increased to 150 meters (500 ft), and it's obvious that every component was made to measure for this watch – this time, Tudor hasn't inherited anything from Rolex.

Released five year ago, the Heritage Chrono has been a strong model for Tudor since its introduction, and played an important part in the revitalization of the brand following its re-launch in 2007. It's a model I come across quite often, on the wrists of both men and women. Some of these Heritage Chrono owners knew of the existence of ref. 7031 before their purchase, while others discovered it through their watch long after.

That is what a tribute watch should aim to be: a watch that supports the manufacture in the present by creating new interest, while preserving its past by reintroducing important historical models. The risk is in creating a watch so redundant it hurts both the old and the new model. Almost every manufacture is culpable, at some point, of making such a mistake. But sometimes, they get it just right. Earlier this week, Stephen identified another great reissue, Omega's CK2998 Limited Edition. Just like the Heritage Chrono, it nails the balance between familiarity and originality, without diverging so far that there's an emotional disconnect for the consumer.

The ref. 7031 is, of course, as popular as ever amongst Tudor collectors, but it's even winning over Rolex collectors. There's no similar model from the 7031's era (or any other, for that matter) from Rolex, and because it is, in some ways, to Tudor what the Paul Newman Daytona is to Rolex, there is no shortage of fans.

These days, it's not exactly easy to find a ref. 7031 in great shape, and collectors are willing to pay $20,000 - $30,000 for them. But there are still some out there. With the Heritage Chrono selling for $4,425, that's more than a 6x premium. It's not comparing apples to apples, but it's also not something most customers will totally ignore.

The more time the Homeplate and the Heritage Chrono spend side-by-side on my desk, the more I seem to mistake them for one another. That's not a bad testament to how well Tudor has reissued their icon. Sure, the Heritage Chrono is a little big and it doesn't have an in-house movement. But the Homeplate would have received, word for word, the very same criticism back in 1971. And look at where it is now.

I think it's clear that the days of a tourbillon as a point of pride are over. Two of my colleages, Stephen and Cara, both decried this truly superfluous, showy variation on a regulating organ within the last seven days – tourbillons are lame. But deep down inside many of us, I would venture to bet there is at least some non-zero percentage of our being that would love to wear a tourbillon. Or to at least own one. Because, here's the thing, tourbillons are lame, except for when they're not. And it doesn't happen often, but there are some tourbillon wristwatches out there that are unbelievably cool and truly appreciated by those in the know. Here are seven of the best tourbillons for those men and women who hate tourbillons.

The A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon

As I've said recently, there is something special about Lange's watches. This is even more true when you're talking about the first batch of wristwatches that came out of the Saxon manufacture in 1994. The Lange 1 is the obvious winner here, but the halo piece was the Pour Le Mérite tourbillon. It's a big, bold tourbillon wristwatch from a period when tourbillons were simply not yet a thing, and tied to it are some of the most important names in contemporary horology. Walter Lange owns one and wears it only on special occasions. The man who effectively made Lange what is is, Günter Blumlein, was buried in his platinum Pour Le Mérite. To many, the Pour Le Mérite, with its fusée-and-chain transmission system and oversized aperture, is one of the finest examples of watchmaking to come out of the grey period called the 1990s. And though Lange was unable to assemble these watches themselves (that was left to Renaud & Papi – bet most of you didn't know that!), there might not be a more special Lange wristwatch than the Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon. Read more here.

Any F.P. Journe Tourbillon

In much the same way as the PLM transcends the social stigma of wearing a tourbillon amongst Lange collectors, most Journe tourbillons do this as well. The idea that a single man could create what has become a truly influential brand around a handmade tourbillon wristwatch has endeared this timepiece to many. The original 38mm platinum case, thin by even today's standards, and the small eccentricities of the remontoire-equipped watch (shiny dials, brass movements, and the like) have made the Journe toubillon a collectible among watch aficionados. Though there is a large, exposed aperture on the dial like with the Lange, real watch guys know this is still a cool tourbillon to own. And this doesn't even include the later watches like the T10 and T30, with hidden tourbillons. Those? Also very cool. Read more on these here.

(P.S. If you like Journe tourbillons, boy do we have a treat for you coming in a few weeks!)

The Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Seconds Vision

Greubel Forsey deserves your respect. They have never played the brand extension, down market game (until 2016, if you can consider this $150,000 steel time-only watch downmarket). Greubel has stuck to their guns and produced absolutely insane, absurdly sized, and scarily priced tourbillons since inception – and they've been able to sell them. Maybe they didn't sell to you or me, but their watches are objectively of exceptionally high quality, and anyone who knows the first thing about high-end watchmaking will tell you that, regardless of whether or not they like Greubel Forsey's aesthetics, or even the very idea of a tourbillon in the first place. The Tourbillon 24 Seconds Vision is a watch that got some people very excited about the brand. It is a smaller, round, understated-for-Greubel-Forsey kind of watch that still features remarkably high levels of of handwork. If you're "that guy" and you want to own one of the finest watches on the planet, this is a great one to consider. Read more on it here.

Vacheron Constantin 14 Day Toubillon

Take one of the most storied, traditional Swiss watchmakers in the world, ask them to make one of the most impressive tourbillon wristwatches of today, and you'll get the Vacheron Constantin 14-Day tourbillon. It was first shown in 2011 in gold, and later updated in platinum. This simple, elegant watch from one of the most elegant manufacturers in the world has a large, slightly non-concentric dial (notice how the chapter ring seems to lift from the bezel and the bottom of the dial?) and a power reserve of 336 hours – or 14 freaking days. That, my friends, is seriously impressive, especially considering the watch is just 42mm in diameter. Also, look at that movement. Read more about it here.

Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon

Bear with me on this one – this watch is not yet super collectible and it's still in production. But it really might be some day, and here's why. To quote my colleague Nick: "The Anchor Tourbillon features a pallet fork with no pivots. Yes, you read that right – the pallet fork is suspended in between the escape wheel and balance roller with ultra-thin silicon blades. These blades buckle back and forth, allowing the pallet fork to perform its locking, unlocking, and impulsing actions without a pivot. Not having a pivot means fewer parts and no need for lubrication."

This is a major step forward for watch escapements, and this watch (which has gone fairly unnoticed by the masses of watch collectors) may just be a game changer. Is this a cool watch? Absolutely. Read Nick's awesome story about this watch here.

Laurent Ferrier Galet Tourbillon

There is something so appealing about hidden tourbillons. It's the horological equivalent of speaking softly but carrying a large stick, and nobody does it better today than Laurent Ferrier. These calibers are designed to have the most precise chronometry in mind but with the emotional appearance often forgone in other precision-obsessed tourbillons. Couple that with old-school Patek sensibilities and a multitude of dial and case options, and you have, quite frankly, the wristwatch that we always wished Patek would make, but didn't. Read more on Laurent Ferrier here.

Patek Philippe 10-Day Tourbillon

So this is an easy transition from the Laurent Ferrier. As of this moment, Patek Philippe does not make a time-only tourbillon. They make them with minute repeaters and perpetual calendars and split seconds chronographs, but not on their own. And this, to me, is a crying shame. As I said above, there are people I know that would genuinely love to own a high-end toubillon, but they don't want to look at (or pay for) the mixed salad of mega-complication watches. The 5101 as seen here, referred to as the 10 day tourbillon, was launched all the way back in 2003 and is one of the most special tourbillons in the world. (It's essentially identical technically, by the way, to the 5100, launched by Patek in 2000, only with the addition of the tourbillon). The caliber is quite small, yet remarkably efficient, tying together two barrels to provide for ten days of power reserve. Then you have finishing and architecture that is extremely reminiscent of Patek's record setting tourbillons of the 1950s and 60s. The entire watch, front to back, is about performance, elegance, and discretion. Look at that stepped case! What's more, our editor-in-chief Mr. Jack Forster happens to love this watch – and if that doesn't mean something to you, well, it should. Read the initial press release of the 5101 right here.

BONUS: Any Mid 20th Century Tourbillon Wristwatch, Or Earlier Pocketwatch, Ever

We all know that Breguet (the man, not the Swatch-group owned brand with the same name) invented the tourbillon. But did you know that the first wristwatch tourbillon caliber came from Omega? It did, and it was all the way back in 1947. You can read about the famed caliber 30I, of which twelve exist, here. One of these, along with the incredibly uncommon vintage Patek wristwatch calibers are pretty much the end-game in tourbillon collecting. Of course, any early high-end tourbillon pocketwatch is important, especially those from Vacheron and Patek, with the obvious holy grail being a tourbillon that A-L Breguet himself worked on.

As it's tradition 'round these parts, we know that a good chunk of the watch collecting world will be out in Carmel, California, this weekend for car week, and the good folks at Fourtané Jewelers and the Vintage Rolex Forum are up to their old tricks. Yes, this Saturday night, they'll be hosting a vintage watch get-together and all are welcome. Details below.

What?

A vintage watch get together, open to anyone with an interest, on Saturday night of car week.

When?

SATURDAY, AUGUST 20th 6:00PM to 9:00PM

Where?

Fourtané Estate Jewelers, Ocean Ave. at Lincoln in Carmel, CA 93921

Who?

Anyone with interest and a good attitude.

Cost?

Nada

Please RSVP to eric@vintagerolexforum.com

If you want to see what last year's car week events were like, have a look here.

The Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon is pretty much pure eye candy. There's plenty of good stuff going on technically, but the real point of this watch is obviously to create a knock-your-socks-off visual display of the age and phase of the moon. In this area, the Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon excels without question.

The idea behind the watch, technically speaking, is that the moon looks different in the northern and southern hemispheres. Basically, the illuminated limb of the moon in the northern hemisphere is a mirror image of that in the southern hemisphere. The Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon isn't the only moonphase watch with this sort of display, but I can't think of another one that dedicates the entire dial to it. A traditional, aperture-style moonphase display isn't an exact reproduction of what you see in the sky overhead, of course (except during a full moon or new moon) and the Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon is no different in that regard. It's something of an abstraction of what you'd really see in the sky, depending on what latitude you're standing at, but the moonphase cut-outs keep the visual pyrotechnics grounded in a way that suits the watch very well.

Though the Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon is obviously not intended to be a scientifically accurate representation of lunar orbital mechanics, it is quite accurate; the deviation from the actual position of the moon is one day in 122 years (that is, in 122 years, if the watch ran continuously, the moonphase would be off by one day). This is considerably more accurate than a standard moonphase watch, which uses a disk with 59 teeth that's advanced one tooth per day. This approximates the 29.5 day length of a month, but the actual average length of a month – defined as the time between lunations, or successive new moons – is slightly longer, which means that a standard moonphase watch will be off by one day after two years and seven and a half months. Again, this isn't the only watch to offer this type of accuracy, nor is it the most precise moonphase watch (that crown goes to Andreas Strehler's Lune Exacte, which is accurate to one day every two million years, believe it or not). However, the level of accuracy in the Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon is more than adequate to ensure you'll feel the visuals are backed up with solid technical watchmaking.

One of the problems with this sort of moonphase display is that it can be difficult to set accurately, so as an aid to precision, there's a pointer-style indication of the age of the moon, set on the back of the watch and superimposed over the going train.

The three dimensional moon disks are likewise not exact representations of lunar topography, although you can easily make out larger characteristic lunar features, like the maria (the lunar "seas"). The real draw of this watch, though, is its visual poetry, not photographic accuracy. This is one of those watches one sees occasionally that would do very well – in fact, probably better – as a pocket watch, rather than a wristwatch. Having this spectacular dial hidden under the cover of a hunter-cased pocket watch would not only give it the feeling of a secret personal treasure, but also make you feel as if you had a little universe in your pocket.  

As a wristwatch it still has presence to burn though. It's an über-moonphase wristwatch with enough technical chops and excellence in execution to keep being interesting long after the novelty of its two giant moonphase displays has worn off.  

The Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon: movement, caliber A&S1512, double moon display on 29mm disc; moons each 11.20mm with third indication of the age and phase of the moon on the movement.  Power reserve, 90 hours.  Nickel silver (maillechort) plate and bridges.  Case, 42mm red gold, water resistant to 30 meters.  Price as shown, $31,000.  See more from Arnold & Son right here.

This week, chronographs are the stars of the show, with a good number of them currently listed on Ebay. Though these sporty watches were primarily built with functionality in mind, that didn't stop them from having stunning good looks, thanks to details like the sharp case of the famed Heuer Carrera and the reverse panda dial of the Breitling Top Time. Expect also to see some technically advanced pieces with the flyback and split-seconds complications, from, respectively, Longines and Eberhard. This is your Bring A Loupe for August 19, 2016.

Eberhard Split-Seconds Chronograph, In Yellow Gold

There is a reason we dedicated an in-depth article to the split-seconds complication here; when it comes to chronographs, this is the ultimate. The double seconds hands are brilliant to see in operation, an area where Eberhard made a real name for itself. The Eberhard caliber 16000 even stands out from other rattrapante calibers, as it offers a sliding lock mechanism with the pusher at 4 o'clock – a smart addition to a "standard" mono-pusher rattrapante chronograph in which the split-seconds function is activated by the button in the main crown. The movement in this example is incredibly clean as well, Beyond those technical accomplishments, the 18k yellow gold case of this Eberhard is properly impressive, and not only because of its 39mm size: tool watches were mostly made in steel, so finding an example in precious metal is extra special. 

Matthew Bain is offering this rare split-seconds from Eberhard here.

Heuer Carrera Reference 3647N

The Heuer Carrera is an example of a watch that nailed all the details – design, name, proportions, it's all good. The Carrera was originally launched in 1963, the exact same year as the Rolex Daytona. Both achieved outstanding legibility, with an overall balance that explains the love they've earned over the past 50+ years. The original Carrera is remembered for its bold beveled lugs that make the 36mm case look much larger on the wrist, while the black-on-black dials made by Singer offer perfect contrast with the inner white flange. The Carrera came with 2 or 3 sub-registers, depending on the Valjoux movement found inside. For instance, the reference 3647 (also called the Carrera 45 after its minute register sitting on the right) is powered by the trusted caliber Valjoux 92. Here, you can see some light aging marks on the case, top pusher, and tension ring, but overall this is a pretty great example, with a mint dial that still has all its lume dots. 

Cosimo has this vintage Heuer Carrera listed for sale here.

Breitling Top Time Reference 810, With AOPA Badging

The success of the Carrera probably inspired Breitling to launch the Top Time line in the middle of the 1960s, in order to appeal to a younger audience who were not attracted by the professional instruments for which the brand was primarily known. The one domain where Breitling did not need inspiration is in dial design, with panda and reverse panda dials being a winning feature of Breitling chronographs since the end of the 1950s. While the  Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) emblem is more commonly seen on the Navitimer, it also found its way onto several Top Time models, such as this reference 810. This Top Time has clearly lived a long life before arriving on Ebay – the scratches and dings on the case and plexi are a proof of that – but underneath the dial looks promising. The engravings on the caseback are sharp, and along with the crispness of the lugs this is a good sign that no excessive polishing was previously performed.

You can find this attractive Top Time AOPA listed on Ebay here; at the time of publishing, bidding was just above $1,500.

Wakmann Chronograph Reference 817, With Orange Handset

Another Ebay find, this Wakmann reference 817 stands out thanks to its very 1970s orange handset. Despite that though, it still comes with a more classically-size 40mm compressor case, with the characteristic cross-hatched crown that you'd expect. The dial and bezel are simple and efficient, displaying the timing measurements from the Lemania chronograph caliber 1872 in the most straightforward way. This discreet chrono not only looks good, but it also wears great on the wrist, and price-wise, you benefit from the fact that Wakmann is still relatively overlooked by collectors (at least for now). 

This Wakmann is still below $350 on Ebay, but the listing runs for 5 more days so you can expect a higher closing price point.

Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster, With Patina

The Chronomaster from Nivada had an ambitious name, but it does deliver on features – there are 9 separate functions for this chronograph. The rotating bezel, for instance, means you can use the hour and minute hands as a semi-GMT indicator and countdown timer respectively. The 38mm case has good proportions, and the handset is quite distinctive, with an arrow hour hand and a dauphine minute hand. For this model, I am not used to see the lume age to green, but the seller discloses that fact in the listing (as well as the unsigned crown). The one thing that actually troubles me is the chronograph seconds hand – it seems the shape and length of its tail are incorrect. It is likely a replacement part, although this is not a deal breaker for me.

You can find this nicely aged Chronomaster on Ebay here, bidding was still below $850 at time of publishing. 

Notable Sale Of Last Week – A Longines 13ZN

I was pretty excited to see this Longines come up on Ebay. I fell hard for its blued handset, sandwich dial, and more importantly, the 13ZN caliber we love at HODINKEE. Unfortunately, the seller probably received an interesting outside offer, as he promptly cancelled the listing. The watch was introduced at $1,500 but it would probably have gone for a 5-6x that, unless I am missing something (other than the uncommon short end of the blued chronograph seconds hand). The sandwich dial models from the late 1930s are very coveted, and the same applies to the revered 13ZN movement itself, which offers exquisite construction and, of course, a flyback function. Add a well preserved 37mm case, and it was indeed a great Ebay pick – albeit one that didn't stay up very long.

We're now in the final days of the Summer Olympics in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Following two weeks of intense competition, thousands of athletes will be flying back home after Sunday’s closing ceremony, some with a medal or two (or six, if you’re Michael Phelps). As this year's games come to an end, it seems fitting to finish with a little bit of Olympic horological history.

This split-seconds chronograph was made by Omega in 1966, and tested at the Pan-American games in Winnipeg, Canada, in 1967, ahead of the 1968 Olympic games in Mexico City. It is powered by a caliber 1131 movement, and was built to time every clocked event of the games, from cycling to sprinting.

The watch is part of a series know as the "Nuit Spaciale," which crudely translates to "Black Space," because of its black and white dial. Only two dashes of color can be seen – the red and orange flashes of the two seconds hands. These allow officials to either track split times for a single athlete, or individual times for a pair of athletes, all to 1/10th of a second.

Omega sent 45 of these split-seconds stopwatches to Mexico City for the 1968 games, along with several tons of other timekeeping equipment. They did sell quite a few more to private individuals, especially athletes and coaches who wanted to train with precise tools. We know this example, at Somlo Antiques in London, never took part in the 1968 games. If it had, there would be an Olympic inventory number printed inside the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Instead, this particular watch was sold to John Partridge, a member of the British Cycling Federation. Partridge officiated at several of his sport's international competitions during the 1980s and the 1990s, including the 1984 World Championships in Barcelona. One would assume he brought his trusty Omega stopwatch to such events and used it for its intended purpose.

All of the events at this year's games that involved a timing device were timed by Omega. The Swiss company has been providing timekeeping equipment to the International Olympic Committee (IOC) since 1932.

But the tools that have been used to record the athletes’ performances have evolved enormously since those early days. Mechanical stopwatches have been supplanted by sensitive electronics systems, human thumbs made redundant by precise sensors, and eyes replaced by photocells at the finish line. Here’s a look at how Omega timed this year’s 100 meters final:

We are now seeing more timekeepers on competitors’ wrists than in the hands of IOC officials, but once upon a time, you could see them all over the Games, and they looked something like this.

Are you tired of me talking about tribute watches yet? I hope not, because this is a really awesome one. Longines has been featured in The Value Proposition a number of times, and for good reason. Out in Saint-Imier, they've done a nice job of digging back into the company archive for successful designs of days gone by and then recreating them without (as most companies do) screwing them up somehow. The latest example of this is the Heritage 1969 and it's one of the better watches on the market today under $2,500.

Longines has done a lot of the hardcore reissues over the last few years, and most have been really good. Both the Conquest Heritage 1954-2014 and the Heritage 1935 fall into this category. Likewise, the Heritage 1969 is inspired by an actual watch from that time period (which you can see here), but instead of being available in steel, gold-plate, or 18k gold, it's available in a two-tone steel and rose gold configuration. The case is steel; the dial silver, and the markers, hands, and logo are rose gold-colored (but not actual rose gold). Importantly, this allows Longines to keep the price down on the watch. The Heritage 1969 will set you back $2,050.

The watch itself is basic enough. It's a 36mm square cushion case with lots of curved surfaces that are all polished, and a three-hand dial with a little date window down at 4:30. It definitely straddles 1960s mid-century minimalism and the funky geometry that dominated the 1970s. It certainly looks vintage-inspired, but you could easily wear the watch without anyone thinking you're a throw-back.

Often, at this price point, brands skimp on the little things. It's tough to blame them – keeping costs down for products with long, winding supply chains is rough stuff, and compromising on the last 5% is sometimes the only option. Unfortunately that can make for less-than-compelling watches. The Heritage 1969 is a departure from this paradigm though. The brushed finish on the dial, in particular, is better than any I've seen on a watch anywhere close to this price point. There are a lot of $10,000 watches with dials that don't look this good. 

It doesn't end there either. The hour and minute hands both have grained centers and polished edges, which are very legible and complement the polished applied hour markers nicely. The Longines signature and "automatic" printing are both razor sharp, even under a Loupe System loupe, and there's a hint of texture to the numerals on the date wheel too. 

All in all, this dial punches way above its weight class from top to bottom and is definitely the highlight of the Heritage 1969.

There's another creative solution here too. Machining crisp geometry is an expensive step in watchmaking that not many people truly appreciate. For every angle or surface, a CNC machine needs to be set to a new axis and run again. I won't get too into the weeds, but things like faceted lugs and multi-finish bezels are really costly. Instead of creating a compromised version of something like this, Longines leaned into a less expensive manufacturing technique: stamping. The Heritage 1969's case has rounded edges and is polished evenly throughout. In this case, however, it looks purposeful and handsome instead of like a compromise, and the decision to go with a snap-on caseback adds some more vintage charm. The Longines-signed crown is a final little touch that prevents a wearer from thinking "budget" at any point. 

That snap-on caseback is solid steel with a brushed finish, so you won't see the movement ticking away inside. That's probably not a terrible thing either. The movement is an automatic Longines caliber L888.2, with a 64-hour power reserve. It's a rebranded ETA A31.L01 (Longines is a member of the Swatch Group, remember), which itself is basically an ETA 2892 with a longer power reserve (64 hours vs. 45 hours). This is not a watch that's all about mechanics, but it's not trying to be.

On the wrist, the Heritage 1969 really sings. Like I mentioned above, the cushion case is 36mm square (approximately 9mm thick) and it wears a lot like a vintage watch. It's also lightweight without feeling chintzy or cheap, so this time of year it's quite as imposing as a gold dress watch. I think with a rougher strap you might be able to get away with this as a casual watch, but personally I think it excels as a dress watch on the matte black alligator strap it comes on. It slides under a cuff effortlessly and more than one of my HODINKEE colleagues gave me the classic "Wait, what's that?" when I was wearing it around the office.

Overall, it's hard for me to find much wrong with the Heritage 1969, especially considering the price point. I'd likely still be writing this story if the watch was twice the price, in fact. It's a quality watch that wears well and Longines cut corners smartly where they could and paid attention to the details that most watchmakers forget at this price point. Consider me impressed.

The Longines Heritage 1969 will go on sale this fall, with a retail price of $2,050. Visit Longines for more and we'll update this story with an official release date as soon as one is announced.

Do you like traveling? I mean really traveling. This year is the 10th anniversary of the White Desert camp, a collection of small buildings on a remote piece of land in Antarctica, and to celebrate it's gotten a serious upgrade. Included as part of the new White Desert travel package is the opportunity to purchase a special edition Bremont watch engraved with the dates of your expedition.

Creating a luxury hotel in the interior of Antarctica is no easy task. Bloomberg Pursuits' Nikki Ekstein chronicled the transformation, illuminating how simple things like waste disposal and shipping in furnishings become monumental tasks in such a harsh, remote place. Booking an eight to 11 night stay at White Desert will set you back a whopping $72,000 per person – this includes accommodations in one of the kitted-out "sleeping pods," excursions to blue ice caves, and fraternizing with penguins. Adding that customized Bremont is just an additional $7,500, not a bad souvenir for a trip you likely won't take twice.

Read the full story from Bloomberg Pursuits here.

Panerai has cultivated an extremely close relationship with yachting communities, sailors, and competitive yachtsmen for almost a dozen years, and the various circuits – in the Western Mediterranean, Atlantic, Caribbean, and North America – involve hundreds of yachts and yachtsmen competing in boats that span over a century of yacht design, construction, and competition. At the same time, however, Panerai also sponsors the nonprofit organization Sailing Heals, which, in conjunction with the North American regatta circuit, provides an opportunity for cancer patients, their caregivers, and their families to get out on the water and experience a day-sail in some of the most beautiful classic yachts on the circuit. Panerai is a founding sponsor of Sailing Heals, which was founded by Trisha Gallagher Boisvert in 2011 in collaboration with Officine Panerai.

Having participated in several regatta seasons as both a spectator and a rail-monkey on a race boat, I feel safe in saying that it would be hard to find a harder-driving, more competitive gang than racing yacht skippers, many of whom you get the feeling would be only too happy if the Racing Rules Of Sailing permitted the use of bow-chasers. But, for a day with Sailing Heals in Marblehead (the day before the start of the two-day Corinthian Classic regatta) hatchets were buried and rivalries forgotten to help ensure a great experience for guests. The weather cooperated as well and we had a sunny day, just enough air to keep the boats moving at a healthy clip, and every participating captain and owner went out of their way to make guests feel welcome instantly.  

Sailing Heals maintains an extremely busy calendar during the yachting season, but thanks to the support of owners and captains, as well as local organizations like Nantucket Community Sailing and yacht clubs like the Corinthian Yacht Club in Marblehead (our host for the day), and of course, founding sponsor Officine Panerai, they're able to offer an incredible experience to people with an awful lot on their plates. In a world where luxury branding often crosses over from exclusivity to exclusion, Sailing Heals is breath of fresh air and we tip our collective hats here at HODINKEE to Officine Panerai for supporting it.

Thanks to Officine Panerai, Sailing Heals, and the Corinthian Yacht Club for accommodations, and to Donald Tofias, master of the W-class yacht Wild Horses, our yacht for the day, as well as the skipper and crew of the 12 meter yacht Valiant. Visit Sailing Heals online for more info on participating, or becoming a sponsor or host captain. All photos by Cory Silken.

I don't know about you all, but I am pretty depressed that the 2016 Rio Olympics are coming to a close. The past two weeks have been filled with such remarkable athleticism, some weird shenanigans, and a solid stream of distractions from normal life. Honestly, it's been hard to watch anything else. So as things wind down on the Copacabana, here is a list of some well-known Olympians and the watches they chose to wear on one of the world's largest stages. 

Rafael Nadal, Tennis – Richard Mille

Rafael Nadal is one of the greatest tennis players to ever live. Pair him up with his buddy Marc Lopez, and you've got one killer pair for doubles. The two won gold in the finals over the Romanian team, Horia Tecau and Florin Megea. Nadal is a well-known Richard Mille ambassador, and we have written about his limited edition RM 27-02 Tourbillon before. So it should come as no surprise that he wore the very same watch during the medal-clinching match in Rio. It's probably worth noting that sprinter Wayde van Niekirk also wore the RM 27-02 in Rio when he won his gold medal. It seems to be a very lucky watch. The watch movement weighs just 4.3 grams – much lighter than that gold medal I'm sure. 

Michael Phelps, Swimming – Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Master Chronometer Chronograph

If you are a living, breathing human with any exposure to the news at all, then you are aware that Michael Phelps is not like you or me. He is a true force of nature. So what watch does the most-decorated-Olympian of all time wear when he's not in the pool? A newly released Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Master Chronometer Chronograph, which was released earlier this year at Baselworld. If you remember, the most remarkable thing about this watch is it is the first METAS-certified master chronograph. The one you see here (so casually draped on Phelps's wrist), is on a leather strap and retails for $13,200. 

Usain Bolt, Sprinting – Hublot King Power Usain Bolt

Usain Bolt is, quite literally, the fastest man in the world. This year in Rio he won gold for the 100m dash, running the race in 9.81 seconds. But he didn't stop there. He went on to win the 200m in 19.78 seconds and he anchored the gold medal–winning Jamaican 4x100m relay team on Friday night to finish up his 2016 medal-run. These three gold medals tied him for the most all-time by any track and field athlete. No big deal, right? Bolt is a known Hublot ambassador and was naturally sporting the Hublot Unico Gold Usain Bolt. This chronograph is made out of Hublot's proprietary gold alloy, features a lightening bolt chronograph hand, and retails for $42,000. It's as brash as it is superlative, just like Bolt himself.

Bubba Watson, Golf – Richard Mille RM055 Bubba Watson

For the first time since 1904, golf was played at the Olympics. Bubba Watson, an American favorite, may not have been the number one contender (especially after this happened), but his watch said otherwise. This year in Rio, Watson sported the white Richard Mille RM055 Bubba Watson, which we've spotted on his wrist before. The skeletonized movement, combined with the titanium case and rubberized strap, make this watch an ideal choice for keeping a light (and steady) hand. This watch retails for $110,000.

Kerri Walsh-Jennings, Beach Volleyball – G-Shock

Truth be told, beach volleyball is an unlikely place to find a wristwatch (wouldn't it get in the way?), but Kerri Walsh-Jennings could be seen sporting one during her final match against the Brazilian team. The American duo eventually took the bronze medal after after losing the first set to the host team. And what did Walsh-Jennings wear exactly? A  black men's G-shock (similar example here). Pretty baller if you ask me. Get it?

Ryan Lochte, Swimming – Apple Watch

And finally, we have Ryan Lochte, the medal-winning swimmer who left his biggest mark on the Olympics by getting held up after a night out drunkenly vandalizing a gas station and lying about it. Lochte, goofy bleached hair and all, can be seen sporting an Apple Watch on one of the new(ish) woven nylon bands during the medal ceremony. Jeah.

When assessing a watch, too often we make judgments based on the name on the dial, ignoring other aspects that make it interesting or give it value. And while sometimes the brand name translates into resale value, prestige, or collectibility, focusing solely on the signature can do injustice to a watch’s more substantive value. This is often seen with the so called "micro brands" or "boutique brands," which polarize watch enthusiasts. Some people ignore the name and admire (or even buy) a watch because they like what the watch offers in terms of design, features, or emotional value, while others reject it outright because it doesn’t say "Rolex" or even "Longines" on the dial. Still, others actively choose to buy from these small companies as an act of defiance or to support the little guy. Whichever camp you fall in, set aside preconceived notions of brand importance for the length of this article while we consider the latest offering from Oak & Oscar, the Sandford.

Oak & Oscar was conceived by Chase Fancher, a Chicago-based entrepreneur and watch collector, who named his fledgling brand for his love of certain oak barrel-aged spirits and his pet dog. His first watch, the Burnham, was released in 2015 and quickly sold out. This summer, Fancher’s sophomore effort, the Sandford, is on the same path. In fact, every one of the 100 PVD versions of the watch is already spoken for. I had a chance to spend some time with the brushed steel version and came away with some favorable impressions.

While the Burnham was a time-and-date watch, a GMT complication was added for the Sandford. Jumping right under the hood, this complication comes courtesy of a Swiss Soprod C125 movement, a caliber Fancher says is so far exclusive to Oak & Oscar (though we were unable to confirm this with Soprod). The movement is nicely finished with perlage on the bridges, blued screws, and a custom-decorated rotor with a four star design. While it’s not haute horlogerie, it’s nice to see a micro-brand add a useful complication and a movement not seen before.

The GMT hand can be set independently, while the date is tied to the local time hour hand; however, pulling the crown out to set the local time (upon touchdown at your final destination, presumably) does drive the GMT hand as well, so you’ll need to reset it for your home time or GMT to maintain the offset. Or you can skip the GMT hand adjustment entirely and use the rotating 24-hour ring to account for a second time zone. This is my preferred method, since tracking a third time zone isn’t very friendly anyway if you don’t have a 24-hour scale on the dial and it's less fiddly.

The watch itself is a handsome piece that manages to contain classic elements without immediately referencing any other watch. The charcoal dial and orange color accents on the sweep seconds hand and GMT arrowhead (inspired by Fancher’s childhood collection of Native American artifacts) is a color combination that is refreshing in a sea of black and white (and increasingly, blue) watches. Adding further interest, the modern sans-serif numerals are stenciled out, creating a sandwich dial that allows the blue BGW9 SuperLuminova lume to glow through. The sweep hand’s counterbalance is Oak & Oscar’s logo and on every rotation it perfectly aligns with the same logo on the dial, a feature Fancher calls the "Stonehenge effect."

While the Burnham has a 42mm case, Fancher opted to downsize to 40mm for the Sandford. This is just about the magic diameter for a watch, unless you’re still a hold-out for oversized pilot’s and dive watches. Along with its 12 millimeters height, this makes for an extremely wearable watch. It has the silhouette and angles of a mature design too. The entire case is brushed steel – polished surfaces would be ill-suited for this watch, with its understated demeanor and matte dial tones. And while this isn't necessarily a tool watch, it’s capable of accompanying its wearer pretty much anywhere, with its useful complication and 10-bar pressure rating.

Of course, the most immediately discernible trait of the Sandford is its two-crown design, with an internal rotating 24-hour ring. Both crowns screw down, with the bottom one controlling winding and setting and the upper one dedicated to turning the 24-hour ring. With watches from many micro-brands, good design is often hampered by small manufacturing shortcomings, such as uneven lume, rough finishing, or, most commonly, scratchy crowns. But the Sandford’s crowns work very well, threading smoothly in and out on repeated uses, and the 24-hour ring has a nicely indexed action.

The Sandford comes mounted on a caramel-colored Horween leather strap with a signed and brushed steel buckle. The strap holes are oversized to fit the buckle pin, a nice feature unless you decide to swap straps, in which case you can’t use the same buckle (unless your replacement strap has big holes as well). Oak & Oscar also provides a spare olive green nylon NATO-style strap sourced from Crown & Buckle.

Where many micro-brands beat the bigger names is in the packaging, and Oak & Oscar is no exception. The Sandford comes in a foldover watch wallet made from a thick leather that is lined with wool. Inside are removable suede snap pouches for storing or traveling with three other watches, and the fold out flap provides a nice soft surface on which to do strap changes. A small springbar tool is also provided in a dedicated sleeve. No doubt if you bought a kit like this on its own, you’d spend north of $200.

Speaking of value, it’s time to talk price. The 200-piece limited run of Sandford watches sell for $1,850 each. And while I’m not going to get into whether or not that is a good price, the fact that the similarly priced Burnham sold out last year and the $1,950 PVD Sandford is already sold out should be some indication of what the actual customers think. If you happened upon a limited edition 40mm twin-crown steel watch with a nicely finished GMT complication, distinctive design, and excellent build quality for less than $2,000, would you consider it a good value? I’m sure we’ll get plenty of answers to that question in the comments below.

In terms of sourcing and build, Fancher approached Soprod directly for this movement, even visiting their offices personally to reinforce how serious he was, in light of such a limited order size. His straps are made by a small artisan in Indiana, the watch wallet by Defy Mfg. in Chicago, and he has the watches assembled and tested by Lüm-Tech in Ohio, who also helps source the cases from Asia. Fancher has no intention of riding the controversial "American-made" bandwagon with Oak & Oscar, instead saying his focus is on sourcing the best components and expertise to achieve his goals for his watches. If, in the future, that includes more American suppliers, all the better.

Overall, the Oak & Oscar Sandford avoids the dreaded sophomore slump that afflicts so many, from musicians to athletes to M. Night Shyamalan movies. It is a watch that shows the focus on individuality and the quality of its designer, while setting itself apart from so many derivative homage watches in off-the-shelf cases. And whether or not you are a fan of micro-brand watches that lack the prestige of the bigger players, the Sandford deserves respect.

More information can be found about the Sandford on Oak & Oscar’s website.

Photos: Gishani Ratnayake

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has published the full list of watches competing for this year’s awards, including the coveted Aiguille d’Or, the most prestigious award in watchmaking. Hoping to win this year's edition (the 16th), is a typical mixed bag of well-known and not-so-well-known names. Let's take a look.

At first glance, this may look like a relatively typical field for the GPHG, but there's one notable change worth acknowledging right off the bat: This year’s competition has a brand new category, the Travel Time, which recognizes watches that have world time, dual-time, and GMT functions. It replaces the Striking Watches category, which covered all sorts of chiming watches. Those watches can still be considered for awards, but they now fall under the Mechanical Exception prize.

At this point in the competition, it’s difficult to say which models have a shot at becoming this year's champion, but the competition is as healthy as it's ever been. You’d certainly expect the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 8 Day Power Reserve, the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, and the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater to be in the mix, but again it's a wide open field at this point.

Note the familiar absence of Omega, Patek Philippe, Rolex and a few other big names, all of which choose not to participate in the GPHG (companies are required to submit for consideration and this handful opt to sit out every year). Also absent this year is Greubel Forsey, which has an honorary spot on the jury and cannot compete after picking up the Aiguille d’Or in 2015. Those are the rules.

The jury of the GPHG, which includes our very own Ben Clymer, will now have the difficult task of cutting down the GPHG’s current list to 72 finalists by selecting the six best watches in each category. As always, HODINKEE will be there to let you know who makes the final cut as soon as results are released.

Click here for the complete list of participants. The pre-selected watches (the finalists) should be announced in the next few weeks. These will then go on a world tour before the winners are announced on Thursday, November 10.

More information can be found on the GPHG website here.

Roger Dubuis doesn’t do bland. You're either into the brand's aesthetic or you're not, and that’s the way the company’s CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué likes it. 

Earlier today we received a quick announcement from the Geneva-based manufacture reporting the launch of its first North American exclusive. Based on the company’s flagship tourbillon watch, the Excalibur Spider Americas Edition is a 20-piece limited edition only available in one location.

So what exactly makes it different? There are red and yellow accents on the dial (the minutes track is yellow with red dots at the hours) plus a summer-appropriate white rubber strap. That’s it though – otherwise it's identical to the standard Excalibur Spider. While this watch doesn't exactly introduce anything innovative to the product line-up, it does show the company’s desire to bolster its North American boutique with a timely new addition.

There are a few variations of the Excaliber Spider, which is one of Roger Dubuis's few watches not cased in precious metals. This limited edition is cased in DLC-coated titanium, making it light and sporty, despite the 42mm case size. Inside, there’s nothing new to report. The watch is once again powered by the company’s highly-skeletonized RD505SQ caliber, a hand-wound tourbillon movement with a 60 hour power reserve, certified with the Poincon de Genève.

The Excalibur Spider Americas Edition is available exclusively at Roger Dubuis's New York City flagship boutique on Madison Avenue, with a retail price of $167,500. For more, visit Roger Dubuis online.

Thin Roman numerals, a railroad-style minute track, blue hands, and a small seconds register. On paper, the C9 5 Day Small Second reads like a classic mid-century dress watch. But it isn’t. The numerals are printed onto a metal dial; the hands are blued chemically, not heated; and then there’s the inclusion of a date window at 3 o’clock. The Small Second is definitely not a vintage watch, but it is a very convincing attempt at creating an elegant and affordable dress watch using modern techniques (and it's a much more convincing design than another CW piece we reviewed not long ago). 

The 5 Day Small Second is part of Christopher Ward’s C9 collection, the company's range of dress watches, and it welcomes the first twist on the company’s Caliber SH21. This movement has a somewhat complicated history. In 2014, Christopher Ward merged with Synergies Horologères, a movement maker based in Biel. Synergies Horologères's chief watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke, designed what would become the Caliber SH21, and is still based in Biel. At the time, Synergies Horologères was making movements for other companies as well, including MeisterSinger, and the MeisterSinger Circularis's movement uses the same foundational architecture as the SH21, with a few modifications. Going forward, Synergies Horologères will not be supplying movements to brands other than Christopher Ward, with the notable exception of MeisterSinger, for whom they'll still be making this movement; the merger produced a single company called Christopher Ward London Holdings. I told you it was complicated.

The Small Second is available exclusively in a 40mm case, while one of its predecessors, the automatic C9 Harrison 5 Day Chronometer, was available in both 40mm and 43mm. Even if 40mm is still quite large for a dress watch, it's far from unreasonable, while 43mm is just too big in my opinion. So there's no real loss in only having a single size option here. The front and back of the case are hand-polished, with a brushed caseband sandwiched in between – this type of finish definitely slims down the watch, making it look thinner than its actual 12.2mm thickness. There are smaller and thinner dress watches out there in a value oriented price bracket (the Mido Baroncelli Heritage comes to mind, for instance) but that's not a reason to reject this watch out of hand. 

In the past, we’ve pointed out Christopher Ward’s tendency to add a lot of unnecessary information to its dials. Sometimes it's outright too much. That was certainly the case of the C900 Worldtimer (which was actually a GMT with added features). But the same cannot be said of the Small Second. The dial design takes after those of 18th-century British marine chronometers, not an unpopular source of inspiration for contemporary companies. The Robin, by Robert Loomes, is another good example. Christopher Ward has gone with a simple and very well-established design, grounded in an ivory dial and elongated black Roman numerals. Only two things interrupt this clear display. First, there's the always contentious date window. Here, the date blends in with the rest of the dial as well as a date window can: It is printed on a plain white disk, inside a slightly stepped frame at 3 o’clock.

And then, replacing the numeral at 6 o’clock is a classic small seconds dial with a blue seconds hands. Like the frame of the date window, it is recessed into the dial to add a bit of texture, and has black printed markers at each second. Very simple, very classic, nicely done.

On the back, a large sapphire crystal reveals Janke’s work in the Calibre SH21. The first thing you’ll notice is an expansive bridge covering most of the movement. Two cut-outs reveal the twin-barrel construction responsible for the movement’s impressive endurance – five days (120 hours) of power reserve. A third cut-out shows the balance beating at 28,800 bph. The bridge is brushed and the name of the company has been engraved beneath one of the barrels. Water resistance isn’t great (5 BAR/50 meters), but there’s no reason you’d expect a dress watch to have a better rating. The build quality of the watch is very impressive throughout. The case feels solid, the crown action is smooth, and the creamy dial looks ace.

Christopher Ward did a really good job with this one overall. The Small Second nails the look and feel of a classic dress watch. There's only one negative feature that sticks out like a sore thumb. The company’s bulky butterfly clasp, a very large and unashamedly modern system, is somewhat surprising. It’s widely used in the C9 collection and while it’s incredibly comfortable (surprisingly so, actually), it goes against the essence of a dress watch and I kept wondering if a simple pin buckle wouldn’t be a more appropriate choice. (Spoiler alert: Yes, it would be.)

The Christopher Ward C9 5 Day Small Second starts at $1,785 with a leather strap (blue, black, or brown) and a metal bracelet option is available as well, at $1920. On this watch, however, I think leather is definitely the way to go. The watch is part of the company’s 60/60 guarantee, which gives customers the option to return their watch within the first 60 days of purchase, and covers the movement for up to 60 months (five years). Great classical style, a wallet-friendly price point, and a small-batch five day movement make the C9 5 Day Small Second  a great Value Proposition.

The Christopher Ward C9 5 Day Small Second: case, stainless steel, 40mm x 12.2mm, 5 bar/50 meters water resistant.  Movement, caliber SH21, five day power reserve with twin mainspring barrels, COSC certified.

For more information on the C9 5 Day Small-Second Chronometer, click here.

There's a wonderful documentary film about Henri Cartier-Bresson, starring the photographer himself, in which he looks back over a lifetime of work and gradually reduces the number of images that he feels represent that lifetime to just a handful. At one point, towards the end of the film, he looks bemusedly at the camera and says, "Really, how many pictures can you look at more than once? Not many, not many." The same is true of watches. While there are many that are perfectly fine, there are also very, very few that withstand repeated scrutiny and resist the erosion of initial excitement that follows in the wake of even some of the best watch designs out there. The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is one of those rare watches that not only withstands, but rewards, closer scrutiny and longer acquaintance, and though we did spend some time hands-on with it at the SIHH last January, seeing the watch again just a few days ago gave me an opportunity to experience its impact away from the (many) distractions of the Salon, and to take the measure of the watch in a more considered way.

From the front, this is a quintessentially Lange design. While there's no shortage of traditionally, and even conventionally, composed watches in the Lange lineup, not for nothing do we still think of the Lange 1 as the watch that most clearly represents Lange's signature combination of geometric purism with an unconventional dial composition. The Lange 1 has been with us for more than twenty years now and the novelty has long since worn off, but the freshness of the design and rigor of the composition has made it one of the most important and enduring horological designs of the post-World War II era.

The basic dial arrangement used by Lange for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is the same as was used on the earlier Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite, which is in turn based on an unusual pocket watch, no. 93, made by Johann Heinrich Seyffert, of Dresden, in the late 18th century. This particular arrangement is slightly more static than the Lange 1, but it has its own stability and unity (if not visual dynamism, a hallmark of the Lange 1). The Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite's signature element is the segment of the hour sub-dial that drops into place when the hour hand passes between 7 o'clock and 11 o'clock, which is a lot of fun to watch but also slightly kitschy (there are occasional hints of humor at Lange, but they're always so subtle you're never quite sure whether or not you're imagining it).  

The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, on the other hand, is much more poker-faced and the only hint of asymmetry comes from the changing positions of the hands as time passes. There's a small triangle for the power reserve indication that changes gradually from white to red as the mainspring winds down, but it's right on the vertical centerline of the dial. The only indication that there's something road-less-traveled going on is when you notice that the seconds hand is not crawling steadily around the dial, but rather jumping in one-second increments. 

As is often the case with Lange, a sober and even slightly forbidding dial is in contrast to an almost operatically melodramatic view through the caseback; it's Neoclassical vs. Baroque all in one watch. The customary (and very high quality) Lange razzle-dazzle in movement design and execution is all present and correct, and at the same time here there's also quite a bit of technically interesting things going on. The jumping seconds display (or deadbeat seconds, as it's traditionally called in Anglophone watchmaking lingo) is a quirky and interesting complication on its own. In the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, it's the result of the use of an extremely rare complication – the remontoire d'egalité. The remontoire d'egalité is a kind of constant force mechanism, and its purpose is the same as the fusée and chain: to provide unvarying torque to the escapement and to counteract the tendency for balance amplitude to drop as the mainspring winds down. There are two types of remontoire: the gravity remontoire and the spring remontoire. The latter was invented by John Harrison, and generally consists of a second spiral spring in the going train, usually placed on the fourth wheel, which is periodically wound by the mainspring.  

In the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, the spring remontoire is re-wound once per second and it's the forward jump of the remontoire once per second that propels the seconds hand. 

One of the most interesting features of the watch, as well as a useful one for the owner, is the stop-seconds mechanism. Pulling out the crown to set the time stops the balance (as seen above) but it also resets the seconds hand to zero. The remontoire and fourth wheel are linked via a vertical clutch system. Pulling out the crown causes two levers to drop into place, separating the remontoire and fourth wheel, while at the same time a reset hammer drops onto a heart-shaped cam, causing the seconds hand to move to the zero (12 o'clock) position. In the image above, you can see the remontoire and reset-to-zero mechanism to the right of the balance wheel, with the two levers that disengage the clutch having fallen into place.

Now, one of the very nicest things about the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is how comfortable it is to wear. At 39.9mm x 10.6mm it is noticeably thinner and smaller than the 41.9mm x 12.2mm Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite. If you admire the slightly eccentric classicism of the Lange 1 but are looking for something a little different (albeit about twice as expensive), this is a genuinely fascinating alternative. Watches with a remontoire are still extremely rare; they're much rarer than tourbillons because it's less easy to see that the mechanism is there, and they don't offer the same visual flourish. On the other hand, their rarity is going to make them more appealing to an enthusiast with an educated (and maybe slightly jaundiced) eye, and certainly, putting a relatively obscure, historically important, and completely unecessary-but-beautiful regulating device front and center is a very, very Lange thing to do.

The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds: Case, 39.9 mm x 10.6 mm; platinum with solid silver dial and rhodium-plated gold hands. Movement, Lange caliber L094.1, regulator with jumping seconds; remontoire d’egalite on the fourth wheel; power reserve; reset-to-zero mechanism for the seconds hand. Power reserve, 42 hours. Limited edition of 100 pieces world-wide. €78,000 (approximately $88,385 at the time of publication). See it at alange-soehne.com.

Last week we co-hosted an event with Maestro Dobel Tequila at the Stephen Weiss Studio in New York City. Aptly named On Dobel Time, the event focused on the similarities between fine-crafted tequilas and vintage timepieces. Both take a lot of care, patience, and, for lack of a better word, time to produce. In order to reflect this partnership, we paired vintage watches from the HODINKEE Shop with different types of Dobel Tequila, including the Maestro Dobel Silver, Maestro Dobel Reposado, Maestro Dobel Añejo, Maestro Dobel Humito, and the Maestro Dobel Diamante. 

Each one of these tequilas was matched with the following watches respectively: a 1960s Vacheron Constantin Chronometre Royal in white gold, a 1950s reference 2584 Patek Philippe Calatrava, a Rolex Datejust with Grey Linen Dial, a Unviversal Genève Tri-Compax, and a 1970s Wittnauer Professional Chronometer. Our very own Benjamin Clymer welcomed the lively group and there were tequila shots had by all. Scroll down to see photographs from the evening. Thanks to Dobel for co-hosting the event with us, and to all the friends of HODINKEE and Dobel who joined us for a great evening of tequila and timepieces!

All photos: Anita Ng Photography

Last week we brought you a selection of rare finds instead of vintage watches, but this week we are taking you back to your regularly scheduled program. We have nine watches for you this week, ranging from a 1950s Zenith dress watch to a gilt tidal Rolex GMT ref. 1675 from 1966 (with lume that still glows!). If you have been waiting for watches all week, read on to see the full selection. 

1960s Breitling Top-Time Chronograph In Yellow Gold

The Top Time was made famous during its appearance in the James Bond movie Thunderball. The example we have here may not have a built-in Geiger counter, but it is not often that you come across a Breitling Top Time chronograph in yellow gold with black dial. The example we have here is in exceptional condition and is solid gold (not plated, like some other reference 2004s). We promise you this Panda-dial won't disappoint. More details here. 

1978 Tudor Submariner Snowflake Ref. 94110

Ever tire of seeing the same old vintage Rolex Submariner, week after week? Well, we can't agree with you 100% because we love a good vintage Sub, but this week we have something slightly different – a Tudor Submariner with Snowflake hour hand. This example has a vibrant blue dial and matching rotating bezel. This isn't a watch you see often, so be swift and click here. 

1968 Rolex 'Paul Newman' Daytona Ref. 6239

Sigh, the Paul Newman Daytona. The grail watch for many, this chronograph is the epitome of vintage Rolex at it's finest. The reference 6239, like the one we have here, wasn't just any old Daytona, it was the first reference and the one sported by Newman himself. The black, white, and red dial we have here is in exceptional condition and does not disappoint. Click here for the full details. 

That's Not All

In addition to these fine watches, we have a great selection of other dress and sports watches including: a 1950s Minerva Chronograph in yellow gold, a 1950s Oversized Lemania dress watch, a 1950s Zenith dress watch, a 1959 Vacheron Constantin in yellow gold with bracelet, a 1960s Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic Chronometre Geomatic, and a 1966 Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675 with gilt dial.

For the full listings click here. 

Blacked-out watches have become one of the most annoying wrist-worn trends of the last few years. With few exceptions, they're uninspiring, overpriced, and flat out ugly. This is one black watch, though, that I can fully get behind. Discommon creates small runs of over-engineered products ranging from straight razors to bottle openers, but its latest creation is the so-called "Discautavia," a fully-restored vintage Heuer Viceroy Autavia with a special black DLC coating. Bear with me on this one, I promise it's worth your time.

Discommon founder Neil Ferrier's very first memorable encounter with watches was with a vintage Heuer. He was 18, his grandfather had just passed away, and he inherited a completely busted vintage Monaco. At the time, he didn't really know what it was, and somehow found Abel Court (a well-regarded watchmaker and restorer specializing in vintage Heuer watches) and asked him to restore it. He remembers it being a long process, during which he learned more about watches and eventually fell in love. That was 14 years ago, but as his collection has developed, it's remained focused on old Heuer chronographs, including a ref. 1153 Carrera he received for his 30th birthday, and a recently discovered ref. 2446C Autavia GMT that he's having fixed up right now. All of this is to say he's an actual watch guy (and a Heuer guy at that), not some yahoo who decided to paint a random vintage watch black.

This project started a year and a half ago, with Neil approaching Abel and deciding to go ahead with the basic idea: a black-cased vintage Viceroy Autavia. But that was the easy part. Next, the two had to source five Viceroy Autavias (full story on that watch and how it likely saved Heuer here) in as good condition as possible to minimize the amount of restoration each would need. After getting the watches in, Abel restored the finishes and shape of each case and prepped it for its coating (more on that below), and then began a full overhaul of the movement, dial, and hands. When I asked Neil how much of each watch was new old stock components from Abel's workshop, he said it varied with each watch but that the percentage was significant.

You can see in these photos just how spot-on every little thing is, from movement bridges to dial registers to the lume on individual hands. Wherever possible, the decision was made to use a new old stock part instead of cleaning up an existing component. This is obviously more difficult and expensive, but it means that the final product is more "original," though that word is obviously loaded here. There's no vintage patina left on these watches at all. What you're getting is basically a new old stock watch assembled from a foundational watch plus a bunch of extra components. And, oh yeah, it's black.

It's that black coating that ultimately sets the Discautavia apart from more typical heavily-restored Viceroy Autavia. Neil opted for a thin DLC coating that allows the starburst brushing (same as was on the case originally) to show through. After looking at dozens of possible workshops to apply this coating, Neil settled on Richter Precision in, of all places, New Jersey. 

I did a little digging, and you know what other object Richter Precision turns black? The American Express Black Card, that's what. 

On closer inspection, the coating is definitely black, but because of its thickness it doesn't come off as a true pitch black, like paint or enamel might. Next to the black dial and bezel, the DLC actually reads more like gunmetal than anything.

The restrained DLC treatment is definitely for the better here. It prevents the Discautavia from being mistaken for a more modern blackout-style watch and keeps the vintage textures intact. Plus, the different black tones add a lot of visual interest and detail to the watch, keeping it from appearing monolithic and one-dimensional.

Neil originally wanted to packed the Discautavias in original Autavia boxes. But, as any seasoned collector knows, finding good quality boxes can be a difficult and expensive affair. Instead, Neil made his own custom boxes for these watches that are made from machined aluminum coated in a bright red Cerakote paint job (the same stuff used on firearms and other heavy-duty equipment) and white enamel markings. The color scheme is a nod to those original boxes, while the materials are all very much of today. 

There are also oxblood leather rally straps (in addition to the black models you see here) that were custom designed and made in Italy, under the supervision and guidance of Abel – they're even signed "AC" on the back. As you'd expect, the goal was to make something period-correct and faithful to the type of strap that might have originally graced these Discautavias back when you were, you know, good old fashioned Autavias.

While I am a fan of vintage Heuer and obviously have a little bit of background here, the first thing I wanted to know when I saw the Discautavia was what Jeff Stein – the ne plus ultra of Heuer experts, of On The Dash fame – would think of it. So I dropped Jeff a line and asked him. It turned out he'd already seen the watch and had a pretty positive take on things. "When I first saw photos of the watch, it looked interesting but it didn't really jump off the screen or 'wink at me.' I had a completely different reaction when I saw the watch in the metal. The brushed steel hands and the applied markers really popped against the now dominant black background. The watch had a very exciting, energetic look to it." 

But, of course, there are going to be the naysayers out there. There will be those purists who start hyperventilating the moment I use the words "DLC" and "vintage watch" in the same paragraph. For those people, I have two words: calm down. We're talking about watches here. Remember that. 

Jeff happens to agree – "Purists can continue to enjoy the vintage pieces, in the form in which they were produced over 40 years ago. For some collectors, absolute originality is essential. Personally, I see nothing wrong with specialists creating new looks, and it seems especially appropriate when they are using materials that were not available back in the day. The Viceroy was the highest production Heuer of the 1960s and 70s, so perhaps even the purists will be sympathetic if a few of them are modified, in response to current preferences." See, even the Heuer guy thinks it's ok. 

One big question raised by a watch like this is what it actually means for a watch to be considered original or authentic. Fair question. In the vintage collecting community today, originality is usually defined as something being shipped from the factory on that actual watch and being in untouched, unrestored condition. Cracks, scratches, and missing lume are all favored over repainted dials and replaced hands. The watch here is a different beast entirely and does make one think about whether or not the usual standard should apply in all cases. This is a much bigger conversation, but it's worth thinking about when looking at this watch.

Neil and Abel only made five Discautavias, so even if they're polarizing and produce some backlash I'm sure they're going to be gone in hours (if not minutes). To make things a little more interesting, Neil decided not to put them on the Discommon website with a "buy now" button. Instead, you have to contact him and his team and request one. This way Neil can meet the people interested and make sure the watches are going to loving homes. The price is set at $9,500 and everyone will pay the same price though, so no need to worry on that front. 

There's no question this is an eccentric project, the product of two very different horological perspectives brought to bear on one another. But I like it. A lot. The Discautavia is a watch with character, a sense of history, and a modern sensibility all at the same time, plus it was designed and made by people with a serious passion for what they do and a desire to put enduring products into the world. For me, that's a tough formula to argue with.

For more, visit Discommon online.